Fantastic video! This will be my go-to guide when I build my first water-cooled PC using the M2. Now, I'm just waiting for the RTX 5090 and 9950X3D to be released.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Wow, that would be something. It would be a lot to cool, but I think it would work. I do plan on procuring the water blocks and video cards for the 50-series for future teardowns, testing and builds.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good to see you too my friend! But also, technically, I never left. I've been here the whole time, grinding away on these videos. I had to spent a lot of time working on a build that never worked out and I had to scrap it and start over on something new. I do recognize it has been longer than usual this time, but my plan is still to do my best on making more videos and making each video better. Thanks again for watching
This build is just beyond my imagination for how good could an itx build can be. Thanks for sharing the details for you build as well . Do you do any requests?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I absolutely would read and take note of any requests. While the exact same thing may not be created, maybe parts of it will be. I think about what content to make all the time.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The fitment of the build is really clean. I also enjoyed putting the pump where it is and having the tubes shown but also looped behind so its not visible.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate that you recognize the detailed step by step instructions. This can still be used for when new components come out like the new RTX 50-series. I plan on doing more videos with the 5090, but I also like how this video is like a blueprint.
I am currently starting to order parts for an M2 build too, I will be going for a dual 240mm rad build potentially triple. I’m gonna use the iceman pump res combo which was so popular on the M1 so that’ll give more space. Then the rest will just be bottom rad, side rad (maybe) and top rad. Just difficult to work out if it will fit or not yet since I’ve seen very few builds to the extreme I’m wanting to do
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the feedback and encouragement! My plan is to continue to make more videos and improve with each one, thanks again
What an unexpected full coverage of a somewhat specialty! First the Ncase M2 Second a fully custom loop water cooled system Third an RTX 4090 Search everything for its own and youll have to work yourself through a bunch of videos... This was so detailed, rounded, well filmed and enjoyable. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the feedback and encouragement. My plan is to my best to make more videos and making improvements with each video.
Hi! Your video inspired me to build a custom loop in the M2 next summer. Do you know of a pump-res combo you could fit there to make filling/bleeding easier?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 If there was a better unit for the pump, I would have used it. As usual, I tried a lot of parts. Perhaps there will be something new by next summer.
always looking forward to your videos 🙏 my (and probably some others) request would be: an upper midrange air cooled SFF PC build when the new components drop in Q1 2025: 9800x3D and whatever the best 80 series or equivalent is (e.g. 5080). I would build a liquid cooled PC but everyone and their mum (see LTT) advises against is because maintenance is always whack with those. by showing an air cooled build you might broaden your audience since you don't have to be a giga tech dude that fiddles with the system every couple months/years to fix/change the water cooling.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Wow, that is really cool thank you. I love watercooling. I enjoy making the content. Having said that, I can totally do aircooling too. It all depends on what people want to see. The 9800X3D plus the 5080 seems like a solid choice. I would try to water cool it ha ha. So maybe I can do a standalone air cooled build and the follow it up the same parts but in a watercooled build. Tinkerers like myself enjoy that part of watercooling but I recognize that the maintenance and upkeep may not be as fun for everyone. Thanks again
@@vectornetwork hmm. what about building a same specced system twice (water vs air cooled) as you just said - and then in the conclusion compare temps and stuff against each other? Whatever you do, I am sure it will turn out great and I will watch it either way!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The case certainly has its options. I was happy that everything actually fit in the case. This isn't the case with a lot of SFF cases. A lot of times, things will flat out not fit.
plus points for the quaddro. it’s unfortunately a rare sight on yt. but their controllers are really good. using an octo in my current cerberus X and had an aquaero before that. I think, I’ll try to get 2 radiators in the N2. waiting for the 5090 FE (hopefully smol PCB as my 3090FE) nice video, cheers
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The Quadro (and Octo) are really cool little devices. I include them in almost all my builds. I enjoy how they keep their settings.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I have built in several NR200s. IIRC, those side panels were more rigid and sort of snapped into place. The ones from the NCASE M2 are thinner and bent inward (as designed) for a better fit. I believe stability was less prioritized here for better and slimmer fit. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I hope I can figure out another configuration that will work. Or I can do Air-cooling and then there are a lot (a lot) more options
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This is the second time I heard this and I actually looked up who hJune was (the first time someone said something) and....I do hear it haha
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You know, not really. It would simply run really smooth with a 4080 or a 4080 Super. Actually, if I could, I would then upgrade to a 9800X3D and that would run better with the 4080 Super. But everything else can be the same. It would run like a dream.
Awesome - very nicely done & documented :D Did you use NCASE’s Riser Cable + Bracket? I plan to build a VGPU setup with the M2 & still need a Riser + bracket for that … Thanks in advance! Cheers
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Ah, you're an eagle eye'd viewer. I did not specifically show the unboxing of the riser cable and bracket. But, yes, it is the NCASE one from their website. Hope that helps
@@JC-hq7wz Well, sometimes I use the build. Like the Editing/Gaming one. Been using that as my main driver and to edit these recent videos and it runs like a dream. Just a little dusty since I keep the side panel off (so I can look at the build) so I spray it with air ever so often. But most other times I simply just take it apart. I either need the parts for another build, need to sell the parts to fund another build and/or need the space. So, this one is completely disassembled as the Strix 4090 is back in a Silver Optimus block and being filmed for another build in the Fractal North. Hope that helps
What were the ambient temps? Did I miss that? My 3070 gets to 49C during 3DM Steel Nomad with 720mm in rads which is only 10 degrees with more than double the radiators
Interesting that your temps are almost the same or very slightly lower than mine and I have the newer Noctua 140mm fans with dual slim Alphacool HPE 280mm radiators. What is your coolant temp at in these tests and how long did you stress test for? Seems like you didn't let the loop fully heat saturate?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This HK water block was one of the few waterblocks that I tried that would fit with a 45mm radiator up top. The difference is the location of the terminal. By having it on the side, it reduces a lot of the height. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good question. Getting air out of the loop was not easy to film. I really only showed the first part. Put it on its side, open up a port on the pump unit and fill. After the water would get to the top, I would put the plug back and then pick up the whole ITX case and rotate it so the water and air gets pushed around. I then put it back down and open the plug and fill it with water and repeat this process for probably 10 times or so. I use the air in the GPU block as a gauge. When the GPU block is completely filled with water and there isn't air there, then I'm pretty much done. I can then put it right side up and run the DDC pump for a full leak test. For draining, its a lot easier. Just put it on its side and you can attach a drain valve (or two). Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're flat out right. I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line. Thanks again
Could you please make a build with fractal north amd 9950 and rtx 4090 in optimus waterblock with a seasonic powersupply Please, I really want to see such video, thank you very much for uploading such great content in a category where almost all videos are crap
Thanks for the comment 🙏 I had written off doing a WC build in the Fractal North but your post put that thought back in my head. I already had one in a build at home. I unearthed it and have been tinkering in it for the last week or so. The build is coming together and I think I can make a build video in the North. Maybe it'll come before another ITX build that I have been working on.
Well, nice job. A bit far from being ideal, but nice. I'd love to see some additional metrics like the coolant temp and the time of the run. And of course what CPU temp metric was used. Simply because the results are a bit too good to be true - more about it later. As for the build, first of all it is way more practical to use the fans in the pull config - way less cleaning needed. And I'd definitely use the rad port on the top as fill port with the help of offset fittings or a couple of low profile 90. Way easier to fill the loop. And of course the drain port. As for power supply, and true SFX (without L) SF1000 would probably be a better fit because it allows more flexibility. Also, 45mm rad is also not that great. A 30mm HWLabs GTS280 would perform better at low to moderate fan speed and about the same at higher speeds due to its larger core. Thats not theory, but from experience. In addition, there is definitely a room for some sort of pump res combo. I have a build with a similar power draw. About 340W GPU and 120W CPU under full load. All housed in a Lian Li Q58 - 14L case. Initially, I was using a single 280 rad and I was not happy with the need to have fans spinning at 1300-1400 RPM under full load to keep the coolant below 45C in a 24-26C room.. A bit too noisy. So I ended up adding mounting holes on the bottom of the case and slapping additional 280 (surprise surprise, NexXxoS XT45 280). TBH, I''d prefer a 30mm but I only had this one. The only spare 30mm 280 was xflow, which was less convenient and required more dremel love to the case. With the additional cooling capacity, the coolant is below 40C with fans in 800-1000RPM range depending on the room temp. That is much more quiet. Even with the additional rad it is just a bit larger than M2, but significantly quieter and with much higher cooling capacity.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Someone else had mentioned a pull/intake config. It didn't really occur to me, as I was thinking exhausting hot air up seemed like a solid choice. The top port on the rad would have been perfect to use as a fill. But, the ports were covered by the bracket. For the power supply, my understanding is that the SF850 and SF1000 have fans that tend to be louder than expected at higher speeds. So, I went with the SF1000L as I wanted at least 850 watts. I thought the 45mm rad actually looked really nice there. I tried a 30mm rad and there was something about squeezing in a 45mm one that felt solid. It was a good feeling, since a lot of times SFF builds are not only restricted to 30mm but also only 240mm rather than the 280mm one here. Your build sounds really good. Its a win that you got it to run both cool and quiet. Thanks again for your thoughts and I plan to make improvements with each video.
@@vectornetwork thank you for the reply. when I was talking about fans at pull config, I meant exhaust. For your build it would mean switching the fans with the rad. This would also leave enough space between the rad and the bracket for the top fill port with 2 x low profile 90 or some offset adapter without dremel love. TBH, even if for some reason it is impossible to to swap the rad with the fans, I'd use dremel to gain access to the rad's top port. As for SF1000 - under ~500w load, it is not louder than other fans in the system (all of which are below 1000 RPM). It is worth mentioning that the PSU fan is assisted by the top rad. I even made some sort of a shroud to force more air to go through the PSU even when it's fan is completely stopped.
@@DmitriWeissman Oh got it, I misunderstood when you said pull, I mixed that up with intake. It is because, I had initially tried the pull config first and it simply wouldn't fit. With the radiator lower, the fittings would stick out too far down. The rad is required to be on top, so the fittings can sit more flush with the fans. As for the dremel, I think that would be solid choice as the top ports are just so perfect to use. For these videos though, they are all 100% completely mod free. I mean, its all custom modification stuff we are doing here, but I stop short on breaking out any power tools. Part of the puzzle and part of the fun for me is figure these builds out with existing parts. So many times I had to not use a pump unit because the screw holes just dont line up. And I have endless mounting plates that I have accumulated over time to try. Also I'm trying my best to appeal to a wider audience. Watercooling is already so niche. I think you may very well be right about the SF1000. I have never tried it myself. I think it is likely I'll procure that PSU sometime in the future. As it may prove to be very useful for upcoming SFF builds. Thanks again for your thoughts
What about 2 280mm rads? There is so much unused space. Gpu behind the mainboard. pump between psu and mainbaord. One top radiator and one in front of the gpu or cpu. Depends where you left the space.
I'm actually running 2 280mm rads in this case and his temps seem to be very slightly better than mine. I'm using a Modultra Lobo (which could explain the slightly higher cpu temps compared to a standalone block) 9800X3D undervolted, 4090 with the same block, and the newer Noctua NF-A14x25 G2. Wondering if the testing in this video wasn't actually when the loop was heat saturated. I feel like longer gaming tests need to be done to really determine the efficiency here, but maybe a single thick rad in this case really is better than 2 slim.
Well, that would certainly be a reason why. Maintenance is part of the game. In the end, using simply distilled water has been much easier than all the coolants that I've tried and used over the years. I do maintenance all the time though, so that is one variable may be different for me. Hope that helps
@vectornetwork This is the second coolant that I have experienced. The first was primo chill. It went from a foggy purple to a clear, and I prepped the loop before filling it. The second is now, where the coolant hasn't changed colors, but the actual gpu water block has discoloration in certain spots. I have another PC that's running Go Chiller and no issues, think I'm just gonna stick to what I know
Do you ever experience discoloration on the heatkiller water bock? I have one on my 4080 Super, and the chrome parts on the gpu water have corners that look like it's washed out....
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Yea, all kinds of things can happen to the nickel-plated coating. What are you using as coolant? If you want to, HK blocks are good to take apart for cleaning and put back together well.
It's really amazing to be able to fit all that in, however the question is - is this better than just leaving everything air-cooled? The issue I see here is you are dissipating all the heat generated by both the CPU and GPU via one single 280mm radiator - which, ideally should be dedicated to CPU alone. And you are running the water line in serial I think, which means either GPU or CPU is getting the warmer water... I'd love to see trying the same basic build setup but with all air-cooled solutions and do a comparison. I think Optimum did a similar build (same case, same CPU but 4080), all air-cooled. It would be interesting to see the difference in performance... While it's a very cool (and expensive!) build, my gut reaction is that it actually would perform WORSE than a much cheaper, standard air-cooled build in the same case.
Very nice!!! Do you think it's possible to do a triple 280mm slim radiator like the AlphaCool HPE-20 ? And what would be the limitations ? Obviously not with 16mm tubing but probably 8mm OD with pneumatic fittings and a cpu block/pump combo ... what do you think ?
How is the WATER temperature under continious loads? And by that I mean 2.3 hours of gaming. Many people imagine that cooling with water is “magical”, but it is not. You have the same physical laws as with air cooling. The advantages of water are: - Water reacts rather sluggishly to temperature changes. This means you gain some time when cooling (but not hours) - With water cooling, you can move the water to a place where the conditions are better for cooling (more space, cooler temperatures). I have been building custom water cooling systems for over 10 years and have tested and spent a lot of money and with all due respect: This build is really very nice. But technically it's complete nonsense. Its way to less radiator surface for this powerdraw. The problem here will also be that the water exceeds the temperatures that the manufacturers release from the hoses. Things will then settle there and the whole thing will gradually break down. I saw in another video that you already own a MoRa. Use it please for this one, too.
I feel you @kpmlinho I run a tripple 360 rad setup (2x 45mm + 1x 30mm) and in games i get like 31°C water-out and 34°C water-in with my 5800X running at 63°C and the 3080 at 50°C (hotspot being 67°C). The system has a total of 12 Noctua NF-A12x25 running at 900 rpm, so there is pretty much no noise. Pump is an Alphacool D5 at 2500 rpm. Undervolt can be a powerfull weapon but i am always 'impressed' how these tiny 1 rad systems perform so well...
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The pass through holes on the GPU plate cannot be used when using a Vertical GPU. The instruction specifically require the removal of the GPU plate. Hope that helps
@vectornetwork i got the case and used standoff to raise the gpu so I could use 2 140mm fans on bottom. Used a pcie passthrough from iceman for the tubes. I use the mora 3 420
There was an "Endgame ITX Build" 5 months ago that used a MO-RA3 420 with similar specs (Intel i9-14900KS instead of an AMD Ryzen 7800X3D). GPU VRAM temps were about 30C lower so might have been a thermal pad contact issue on this build.
@@Kokinkun What was the gpu/cpu test though? A game? Was that just at base temps? only reason I ask is because I have a Full Tower with my MO-RA3 420 connected and get amazing temps, but I really like the idea of having something smaller to create more space on my desk. Thanks
@@OGSGTWOBBLE It's from 3DMark, the benchmarking/stress testing software suite? It's been around for decades and they have different tests that hammer the CPU/GPU. He also did Cinebench and the same Cyperpunk 2077 Overdrive test, including both base clocks and undervolted. He includes the ITX only mode (disconnected MO-RA) and MO-RA mode (turned off internal rad fans). Doing a single rad for a CPU + GPU on the M2 will run pretty warm. The internal water temp will likely spike to 40-45C, which is not ideal. If you're thinking of doing an M2 with an internal rad + your existing MO-RA setup, you should definitely watch the other video. That setup has good versatility and insane temps when adding the MO-RA.
Thanks for your comment 🙏One of the reasons why this build works is the compactness and terminal placement of the Heatkiller GPU block. The HK block only has models for the Strix/TUF and Founders Edition. So, I do not think a Zotac 4090 would fit. Hope that helps
Thanks for your comment 🙏Yes, it is fine to run without a reservoir. It takes more work to fill and bleed the air without one. If a reservoir would have fit, I would have put one in.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're flat out right. I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line.
Great build video! Lots to learn from you-this is really inspiring! 😍
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Wow, that is quite validating. The M2 is potentially my favorite case, an elusive balance of form and function. Its a joy.
Fantastic video! This will be my go-to guide when I build my first water-cooled PC using the M2. Now, I'm just waiting for the RTX 5090 and 9950X3D to be released.
Same here bro!!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Wow, that would be something. It would be a lot to cool, but I think it would work. I do plan on procuring the water blocks and video cards for the 50-series for future teardowns, testing and builds.
Great timing! I was looking at this exact case for my next watercooled build. Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 It was refreshing to have components actually fit without much compromise.
Hooray, you're back!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good to see you too my friend! But also, technically, I never left. I've been here the whole time, grinding away on these videos. I had to spent a lot of time working on a build that never worked out and I had to scrap it and start over on something new. I do recognize it has been longer than usual this time, but my plan is still to do my best on making more videos and making each video better. Thanks again for watching
This build is just beyond my imagination for how good could an itx build can be. Thanks for sharing the details for you build as well .
Do you do any requests?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I absolutely would read and take note of any requests. While the exact same thing may not be created, maybe parts of it will be. I think about what content to make all the time.
What a beautiful build. This is what Im aspiring to
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The fitment of the build is really clean. I also enjoyed putting the pump where it is and having the tubes shown but also looped behind so its not visible.
Perfect! Just one im looking for my next build!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thanks for viewing and you have the blueprint!
Amazing build and great video. Thanks for the detailed step by step instructions.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate that you recognize the detailed step by step instructions. This can still be used for when new components come out like the new RTX 50-series. I plan on doing more videos with the 5090, but I also like how this video is like a blueprint.
I am currently starting to order parts for an M2 build too, I will be going for a dual 240mm rad build potentially triple. I’m gonna use the iceman pump res combo which was so popular on the M1 so that’ll give more space. Then the rest will just be bottom rad, side rad (maybe) and top rad. Just difficult to work out if it will fit or not yet since I’ve seen very few builds to the extreme I’m wanting to do
Awesome video! Really enjoyed this
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Feels good, slam dunk!
Perfect build! Very good work!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the feedback and encouragement! My plan is to continue to make more videos and improve with each one, thanks again
Please enjoy watching 🙏
What an unexpected full coverage of a somewhat specialty!
First the Ncase M2
Second a fully custom loop water cooled system
Third an RTX 4090
Search everything for its own and youll have to work yourself through a bunch of videos...
This was so detailed, rounded, well filmed and enjoyable.
Thank you!
Good build well done
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the feedback and encouragement. My plan is to my best to make more videos and making improvements with each video.
Ending the build on a drop 👌
Happy you noticed, it's all for the viewer. 😎
Hi! Your video inspired me to build a custom loop in the M2 next summer. Do you know of a pump-res combo you could fit there to make filling/bleeding easier?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 If there was a better unit for the pump, I would have used it. As usual, I tried a lot of parts. Perhaps there will be something new by next summer.
always looking forward to your videos 🙏
my (and probably some others) request would be: an upper midrange air cooled SFF PC build when the new components drop in Q1 2025: 9800x3D and whatever the best 80 series or equivalent is (e.g. 5080).
I would build a liquid cooled PC but everyone and their mum (see LTT) advises against is because maintenance is always whack with those.
by showing an air cooled build you might broaden your audience since you don't have to be a giga tech dude that fiddles with the system every couple months/years to fix/change the water cooling.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Wow, that is really cool thank you.
I love watercooling. I enjoy making the content. Having said that, I can totally do aircooling too. It all depends on what people want to see.
The 9800X3D plus the 5080 seems like a solid choice. I would try to water cool it ha ha. So maybe I can do a standalone air cooled build and the follow it up the same parts but in a watercooled build.
Tinkerers like myself enjoy that part of watercooling but I recognize that the maintenance and upkeep may not be as fun for everyone. Thanks again
@@vectornetwork hmm. what about building a same specced system twice (water vs air cooled) as you just said - and then in the conclusion compare temps and stuff against each other?
Whatever you do, I am sure it will turn out great and I will watch it either way!
Awesome build
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate your thoughts
Thanks very much, very interesting to watch and tempting to get this case and do something with it.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The case certainly has its options. I was happy that everything actually fit in the case. This isn't the case with a lot of SFF cases. A lot of times, things will flat out not fit.
plus points for the quaddro. it’s unfortunately a rare sight on yt. but their controllers are really good. using an octo in my current cerberus X and had an aquaero before that.
I think, I’ll try to get 2 radiators in the N2. waiting for the 5090 FE (hopefully smol PCB as my 3090FE)
nice video, cheers
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The Quadro (and Octo) are really cool little devices. I include them in almost all my builds. I enjoy how they keep their settings.
Are vented side panels rigid (like NR200P) or fragile? Will they bent if you grab your PC at bottom and side panel while transporting?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I have built in several NR200s. IIRC, those side panels were more rigid and sort of snapped into place. The ones from the NCASE M2 are thinner and bent inward (as designed) for a better fit. I believe stability was less prioritized here for better and slimmer fit. Hope that helps
@@vectornetwork Thanks for response! Would be alao very interesting to watch COOJ Z13 on your channel, but those are rare and expensive
More m2 Builds pls!
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I hope I can figure out another configuration that will work. Or I can do Air-cooling and then there are a lot (a lot) more options
@@vectornetwork Perhaps a simple variant, with AIO and normal graphics card (Vertical). Or a completely reversed build
you sound like Blooprint and hJune combined XD
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This is the second time I heard this and I actually looked up who hJune was (the first time someone said something) and....I do hear it haha
would you change any components if you were using a rtx 4080 (super if that's still a thing)?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You know, not really. It would simply run really smooth with a 4080 or a 4080 Super. Actually, if I could, I would then upgrade to a 9800X3D and that would run better with the 4080 Super. But everything else can be the same. It would run like a dream.
Awesome - very nicely done & documented :D Did you use NCASE’s Riser Cable + Bracket? I plan to build a VGPU setup with the M2 & still need a Riser + bracket for that … Thanks in advance! Cheers
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Ah, you're an eagle eye'd viewer. I did not specifically show the unboxing of the riser cable and bracket. But, yes, it is the NCASE one from their website. Hope that helps
Super nice built! What about having the fans as intake instead, it could be interesting to see results?
A Masterpiece! 😘👌 Perfecto! This is now my Dream PC Build! 😍 Do you do Prebuilds?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I appreciate the kind words. I plan on doing my best to make more videos. I have never build a prebuild.
@ what do you do with these PC’s after you’ve built them? I’d love to build a pc like this, but don’t trust myself enough to handle such a task 😂
@@JC-hq7wz Well, sometimes I use the build. Like the Editing/Gaming one. Been using that as my main driver and to edit these recent videos and it runs like a dream. Just a little dusty since I keep the side panel off (so I can look at the build) so I spray it with air ever so often. But most other times I simply just take it apart. I either need the parts for another build, need to sell the parts to fund another build and/or need the space. So, this one is completely disassembled as the Strix 4090 is back in a Silver Optimus block and being filmed for another build in the Fractal North. Hope that helps
What were the ambient temps? Did I miss that? My 3070 gets to 49C during 3DM Steel Nomad with 720mm in rads which is only 10 degrees with more than double the radiators
Crazy build
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Crazy is okay and I appreciate your thoughts
Interesting that your temps are almost the same or very slightly lower than mine and I have the newer Noctua 140mm fans with dual slim Alphacool HPE 280mm radiators. What is your coolant temp at in these tests and how long did you stress test for? Seems like you didn't let the loop fully heat saturate?
Really helpful video. Do you think 30T fan is okay with 45T radiator?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 No, a 30mm fan will not fit with the 45mm radiator. I tried. Hope that helps
Do you think a slightly larger MSI Gaming Trio 4090 waterblock would fit in a build like this?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 This HK water block was one of the few waterblocks that I tried that would fit with a 45mm radiator up top. The difference is the location of the terminal. By having it on the side, it reduces a lot of the height. Hope that helps
How do you get the air out of the loop without a reservoir and also drain it?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Good question. Getting air out of the loop was not easy to film. I really only showed the first part. Put it on its side, open up a port on the pump unit and fill. After the water would get to the top, I would put the plug back and then pick up the whole ITX case and rotate it so the water and air gets pushed around. I then put it back down and open the plug and fill it with water and repeat this process for probably 10 times or so. I use the air in the GPU block as a gauge. When the GPU block is completely filled with water and there isn't air there, then I'm pretty much done. I can then put it right side up and run the DDC pump for a full leak test.
For draining, its a lot easier. Just put it on its side and you can attach a drain valve (or two). Hope that helps
VRAM at 89 celcius is not normal, is alpha cool beating heat killer that much?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're flat out right. I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line. Thanks again
@ exactly, I hope there’s no damage done to your parts
@@vectornetworkdid you get a chance to retest?
Could you please make a build with fractal north amd 9950 and rtx 4090 in optimus waterblock with a seasonic powersupply
Please, I really want to see such video, thank you very much for uploading such great content in a category where almost all videos are crap
Thanks for the comment 🙏 I had written off doing a WC build in the Fractal North but your post put that thought back in my head. I already had one in a build at home. I unearthed it and have been tinkering in it for the last week or so. The build is coming together and I think I can make a build video in the North. Maybe it'll come before another ITX build that I have been working on.
Well, nice job. A bit far from being ideal, but nice.
I'd love to see some additional metrics like the coolant temp and the time of the run. And of course what CPU temp metric was used. Simply because the results are a bit too good to be true - more about it later.
As for the build, first of all it is way more practical to use the fans in the pull config - way less cleaning needed. And I'd definitely use the rad port on the top as fill port with the help of offset fittings or a couple of low profile 90. Way easier to fill the loop. And of course the drain port. As for power supply, and true SFX (without L) SF1000 would probably be a better fit because it allows more flexibility. Also, 45mm rad is also not that great. A 30mm HWLabs GTS280 would perform better at low to moderate fan speed and about the same at higher speeds due to its larger core. Thats not theory, but from experience. In addition, there is definitely a room for some sort of pump res combo.
I have a build with a similar power draw. About 340W GPU and 120W CPU under full load. All housed in a Lian Li Q58 - 14L case. Initially, I was using a single 280 rad and I was not happy with the need to have fans spinning at 1300-1400 RPM under full load to keep the coolant below 45C in a 24-26C room.. A bit too noisy. So I ended up adding mounting holes on the bottom of the case and slapping additional 280 (surprise surprise, NexXxoS XT45 280). TBH, I''d prefer a 30mm but I only had this one. The only spare 30mm 280 was xflow, which was less convenient and required more dremel love to the case. With the additional cooling capacity, the coolant is below 40C with fans in 800-1000RPM range depending on the room temp. That is much more quiet.
Even with the additional rad it is just a bit larger than M2, but significantly quieter and with much higher cooling capacity.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Someone else had mentioned a pull/intake config. It didn't really occur to me, as I was thinking exhausting hot air up seemed like a solid choice. The top port on the rad would have been perfect to use as a fill. But, the ports were covered by the bracket. For the power supply, my understanding is that the SF850 and SF1000 have fans that tend to be louder than expected at higher speeds. So, I went with the SF1000L as I wanted at least 850 watts. I thought the 45mm rad actually looked really nice there. I tried a 30mm rad and there was something about squeezing in a 45mm one that felt solid. It was a good feeling, since a lot of times SFF builds are not only restricted to 30mm but also only 240mm rather than the 280mm one here. Your build sounds really good. Its a win that you got it to run both cool and quiet. Thanks again for your thoughts and I plan to make improvements with each video.
@@vectornetwork thank you for the reply.
when I was talking about fans at pull config, I meant exhaust. For your build it would mean switching the fans with the rad. This would also leave enough space between the rad and the bracket for the top fill port with 2 x low profile 90 or some offset adapter without dremel love. TBH, even if for some reason it is impossible to to swap the rad with the fans, I'd use dremel to gain access to the rad's top port.
As for SF1000 - under ~500w load, it is not louder than other fans in the system (all of which are below 1000 RPM). It is worth mentioning that the PSU fan is assisted by the top rad. I even made some sort of a shroud to force more air to go through the PSU even when it's fan is completely stopped.
@@DmitriWeissman Oh got it, I misunderstood when you said pull, I mixed that up with intake. It is because, I had initially tried the pull config first and it simply wouldn't fit. With the radiator lower, the fittings would stick out too far down. The rad is required to be on top, so the fittings can sit more flush with the fans. As for the dremel, I think that would be solid choice as the top ports are just so perfect to use. For these videos though, they are all 100% completely mod free. I mean, its all custom modification stuff we are doing here, but I stop short on breaking out any power tools. Part of the puzzle and part of the fun for me is figure these builds out with existing parts. So many times I had to not use a pump unit because the screw holes just dont line up. And I have endless mounting plates that I have accumulated over time to try. Also I'm trying my best to appeal to a wider audience. Watercooling is already so niche. I think you may very well be right about the SF1000. I have never tried it myself. I think it is likely I'll procure that PSU sometime in the future. As it may prove to be very useful for upcoming SFF builds. Thanks again for your thoughts
What about 2 280mm rads? There is so much unused space. Gpu behind the mainboard. pump between psu and mainbaord. One top radiator and one in front of the gpu or cpu. Depends where you left the space.
I'm actually running 2 280mm rads in this case and his temps seem to be very slightly better than mine. I'm using a Modultra Lobo (which could explain the slightly higher cpu temps compared to a standalone block) 9800X3D undervolted, 4090 with the same block, and the newer Noctua NF-A14x25 G2. Wondering if the testing in this video wasn't actually when the loop was heat saturated. I feel like longer gaming tests need to be done to really determine the efficiency here, but maybe a single thick rad in this case really is better than 2 slim.
Im using EK azure blue cryofuel coolant. I think I'm going to change it out to go chiller
Well, that would certainly be a reason why. Maintenance is part of the game. In the end, using simply distilled water has been much easier than all the coolants that I've tried and used over the years. I do maintenance all the time though, so that is one variable may be different for me. Hope that helps
@vectornetwork This is the second coolant that I have experienced. The first was primo chill. It went from a foggy purple to a clear, and I prepped the loop before filling it. The second is now, where the coolant hasn't changed colors, but the actual gpu water block has discoloration in certain spots. I have another PC that's running Go Chiller and no issues, think I'm just gonna stick to what I know
Do you ever experience discoloration on the heatkiller water bock? I have one on my 4080 Super, and the chrome parts on the gpu water have corners that look like it's washed out....
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Yea, all kinds of things can happen to the nickel-plated coating. What are you using as coolant? If you want to, HK blocks are good to take apart for cleaning and put back together well.
It's really amazing to be able to fit all that in, however the question is - is this better than just leaving everything air-cooled? The issue I see here is you are dissipating all the heat generated by both the CPU and GPU via one single 280mm radiator - which, ideally should be dedicated to CPU alone. And you are running the water line in serial I think, which means either GPU or CPU is getting the warmer water... I'd love to see trying the same basic build setup but with all air-cooled solutions and do a comparison. I think Optimum did a similar build (same case, same CPU but 4080), all air-cooled. It would be interesting to see the difference in performance... While it's a very cool (and expensive!) build, my gut reaction is that it actually would perform WORSE than a much cheaper, standard air-cooled build in the same case.
Very nice!!! Do you think it's possible to do a triple 280mm slim radiator like the AlphaCool HPE-20 ? And what would be the limitations ? Obviously not with 16mm tubing but probably 8mm OD with pneumatic fittings and a cpu block/pump combo ... what do you think ?
looks good but i dont have enough kidneys to afford it
How is the WATER temperature under continious loads? And by that I mean 2.3 hours of gaming.
Many people imagine that cooling with water is “magical”, but it is not. You have the same physical laws as with air cooling. The advantages of water are:
- Water reacts rather sluggishly to temperature changes. This means you gain some time when cooling (but not hours)
- With water cooling, you can move the water to a place where the conditions are better for cooling (more space, cooler temperatures).
I have been building custom water cooling systems for over 10 years and have tested and spent a lot of money and with all due respect: This build is really very nice. But technically it's complete nonsense. Its way to less radiator surface for this powerdraw. The problem here will also be that the water exceeds the temperatures that the manufacturers release from the hoses. Things will then settle there and the whole thing will gradually break down. I saw in another video that you already own a MoRa. Use it please for this one, too.
10c per 100mm is for people who use acrylic tubing or live in hot climates. 45c coolant temp won't kill the pump and edpm tubing won't melt.
@@isaac.s6353 This build here will definitely exceed 45° water temperature under continuous load and that is simply nonsense.
I feel you @kpmlinho
I run a tripple 360 rad setup (2x 45mm + 1x 30mm) and in games i get like 31°C water-out and 34°C water-in with my 5800X running at 63°C and the 3080 at 50°C (hotspot being 67°C).
The system has a total of 12 Noctua NF-A12x25 running at 900 rpm, so there is pretty much no noise. Pump is an Alphacool D5 at 2500 rpm.
Undervolt can be a powerfull weapon but i am always 'impressed' how these tiny 1 rad systems perform so well...
Can you move the gpu plate while vertical for the hose pass throughs? I want to use my mora 3 420 with this case.
Thanks for your comment 🙏 The pass through holes on the GPU plate cannot be used when using a Vertical GPU. The instruction specifically require the removal of the GPU plate. Hope that helps
@vectornetwork i got the case and used standoff to raise the gpu so I could use 2 140mm fans on bottom. Used a pcie passthrough from iceman for the tubes. I use the mora 3 420
Add a MO-RA3 420 to it and see what temps you get? That would be amazing!
MO-RA3 isn't being sold anymore, Watercool moved to MO-RA4 in the summer. Just saying this if you didn't know it already.
@@Simon_Denmark I didnt know that. but thanks.
There was an "Endgame ITX Build" 5 months ago that used a MO-RA3 420 with similar specs (Intel i9-14900KS instead of an AMD Ryzen 7800X3D). GPU VRAM temps were about 30C lower so might have been a thermal pad contact issue on this build.
@@Kokinkun What was the gpu/cpu test though? A game? Was that just at base temps? only reason I ask is because I have a Full Tower with my MO-RA3 420 connected and get amazing temps, but I really like the idea of having something smaller to create more space on my desk. Thanks
@@OGSGTWOBBLE It's from 3DMark, the benchmarking/stress testing software suite? It's been around for decades and they have different tests that hammer the CPU/GPU. He also did Cinebench and the same Cyperpunk 2077 Overdrive test, including both base clocks and undervolted. He includes the ITX only mode (disconnected MO-RA) and MO-RA mode (turned off internal rad fans).
Doing a single rad for a CPU + GPU on the M2 will run pretty warm. The internal water temp will likely spike to 40-45C, which is not ideal. If you're thinking of doing an M2 with an internal rad + your existing MO-RA setup, you should definitely watch the other video. That setup has good versatility and insane temps when adding the MO-RA.
make more vids
Thanks for your comment 🙏 That is the plan my friend! The 50-series is around the corner too, so more to come!
a 60mm rad will fit there?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 If a 60mm rad would have fit, I would have put one in.
Not the heat grizzly GLIZZY
How much was build?
Thanks for the comment 🙏 There is a link to all the parts. Adding it all up, it costs an arm and a leg and blood sweat and tears 😭
Does it fit ZOTAC 4090?
Thanks for your comment 🙏One of the reasons why this build works is the compactness and terminal placement of the Heatkiller GPU block. The HK block only has models for the Strix/TUF and Founders Edition. So, I do not think a Zotac 4090 would fit. Hope that helps
Is it fine to run without reservoir?) Want to run something small
Thanks for your comment 🙏Yes, it is fine to run without a reservoir. It takes more work to fill and bleed the air without one. If a reservoir would have fit, I would have put one in.
Why is your GPU memory hitting 99c without an under volt? Something doesn't seem right about that. Sick build tho
Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're flat out right. I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line.
Total Cost??
Thanks for your comment 🙏 An arm and a leg and blood, sweat and tears
mega, next ncase build with 285k and rtx 5090 pls :)
Thanks for your comment 🙏 Absolutely the RTX 5090. For CPU, I am leaning towards the 9800X3D.
@@vectornetwork would be also nice, after the 5090 video, i have to copy the build :D
GPU memory 99c are you sure?
Thanks for your comment 🙏 I double checked the source data and that's what it says, but in retrospect, that is maybe 30 degrees too high. I should have caught that, but I overlooked it since the GPU temps were good. It is likely a thermal pad contact issue. I will check it when I break down the build down the line.
First one
Who has money for a RTX 4090 ??
Me but waiting for the 5090.