Perfect video, currently in school for hvac in Wisconsin and my class right now are recovery, deep vacuum and charge, and then triple Evac. Love this channel good luck to everyone one
Craig, commenting on tip #26. I got burnt once early in my career on not changing the vac pump oil. After that I always checked that the pump could pull a deep vacuum. I checked to see if the pump was capable of pulling at least 400 microns prior to hooking it up to the system. That way I knew if I couldn't pull at least 400 microns on the system it could not be the pump's fault. This saved me time in the long run. As always another high quality video. Thanks, Craig, Rick.
May I add another tip use magnetic tool for holding open any solenoid valves. This is particularly true on refrigeration systems. This from experience of 40+ years in the field. Thank You for your videos they remind me and keep me up to date.
Yes. You need that liquid line solenoid open for proper recovery and evacuation. I do both hvac and refrigeration. That was one thing that tripped me up when I started doing refrigeration and ice machines. Sometimes if I'm in a situation where I can't get to the solenoid (tight space ice machine) I'll disconnect the control wire to the compressor contactor and keep the system energized to keep the solenoid open.
I got my EPA 608 for DIY purposes. I had problems pulling a vacuum on the last few mini-splits I installed. My practical knowledge has been a bit light. This was extremely informative and I'm now pretty sure where I went wrong. Thanks.
This will be a long one... Ive never seen 500 microns on anything so far. I put my BlueVac Pro with Nylog on the 1/4” connection to test the pumps ability / oil. It pulled down to about 70 microns. Then I hooked up a 1/4” X 1/4” hose with Nylog to an empty recovery container. After 15 minutes it stopped at about 1800 microns. I switched to a new Appion 3/8” (1/2” hose) X 1/4” connector to the tank and it pegged out at about 780 microns after 15 minutes. I have the Ritchie tower on my pump that has two 3/8”taps and one 1/4” tap on the top and a ball valve. These are new and not worn out, and specificaly designed for vacuum. Now physics tells me that pressure goes from higher to lower, always. If I register 70 microns on the pump, physics tells me that the 780 microns I got with the larger vacuum hose was just overcoming an ongoing leak (possibly ) in the recovery tank? How would I go about checking the tank for a leak? R22 and Nitrogen?
Great tips. Remember to protect (disconnect) the compressor electrical if running the unit “fan” on depending on the equipment. Pulling a vacuum with a compressor that has power will toast it.
Love the video, but I will say to try these tips on lennox residential equipment. Good luck using core removers without bending/unscrewing service valves and cabinet pieces. I've been using the same Ritchie vacuum pump for 15 years and I change the oil after EVERY use, just as the instructions say to. I can say from experience that MANY techs will only change their oil after 20 uses, these techs also buy a new vacuum pump every 1-3 years also.
Tip 32 don’t use vac gauge as pressure test, YES, a test at negative 15psi isn’t much of a test. Another tip “Keep the sensor upright, to avoid contamination” (Found in bold lettering on the Yellow Jacket vac gauge. ) Another: make up copper lines rather than rubber hoses, to get a super low vacuum
Squoshed... Did I spell that right? Great job, thank you very much. This all would have helped me when I first started. I had lots of problems in this area.
Tip 11, Pre hair cut. Tip 12 Post hair cut. Lol All good stuff here. Been doing this stuff here and there for over 20 years and Im still fine tuning my craft with this guys help.
Install your vacuum gauge vertically, pointing up. This will limit, if not prevent the oil from entering the gauge and contaminating the sensor. I do keep a small bottle of rubbing alcohol in my van. Also a small plastic syringe.
CPS VG200 manual states its maximum working pressure is 600 PSIG with a burst pressure of 3000 psig. It also states that it's has a thermistor sensor which cannot be damaged from exposure to positive pressure or oil mist. No need for the second valve core tool.
Love it! There's so much variation in vacuum decay test out there! If you ask Google it says "vacuum shall not rise above 1500 microns in 15 minutes" is there an allowance for rise in a 10 minute test? Or does it have to stay under 200microns?
( I do not know Bayer from aspirin please excuse total unawareness) The truly highly rated school Videos on you tube. Seem. To Deep /clean/pressure test. At same points. Actually looks like exact same process. But, With Nitric oxide tank at one High level psi.Find leak(s) then while Fix leaks, Braise running .005 Noxide through area being Braised, durning process. Question. Is this procedure an alternative to what you present. Or an unnecessary , complicated, mostly EXPERIENCE procedure. You seem to help people keep an Eye on the Cost. Any helpful knowledge sincerely appreciated. Somebody just vandalized my HVAC. Whoooopi, I am a HVAC. And yes I spite of the obvious “I first called a professional “ But PERFER to keep on a pleasant tone. Separate the evil from the evil people do! Thank you all. What a great, Highly intelligent level profession. Wo da a Eva dunk it! Thanks
Craig, let's say its a 3 head mini system with a total of 130' of line, we did a 600 psi nitrogen test, say zero sign of leaks on the 12 connections & then we proceed to vac down. 1/2" appion hose on a 10 CFM pump, valve core removed and we perform a 1.5 hr vacc and get it down to 250 microns. After the 15 minute decay it rises up to 370 and hangs out around there- would you call it good or would you let the vacc run a bit longer? Thank you!! We have always been told under 500 is good to go.....
Tip#14 question: Would having the micron gauge on the liquid line not give you a true reading? For example, I’ve been using my two valve core removal tool set up with the micron gauge on the liquid side. 3/8-1/4 hoses. I’ve triple vacuum the systems breaking the vacuum with nitrogen. After I’ve reached a micron level of about 200, I close the valves, turned of the pump and do the decayed test. So far I’ve always stayed under 500 microns.
You can certainly do that. However, you will likely notice a higher initial rise during the standing vac test, thats all. It only has to do with the smaller size 3/8" line compared to the suction line, thanks!
I like to put my micron gauge on the vacuum pump to test how low my pump will pull. If your vacuum pump won't go below 600 or 700 microns, you'll never pull a good vacuum so test your pump.
This practice will not work for most vacuum gauges. I have tried many times. The issue is the volume of air from the port of the vacuum guage tied directly to the micron gauge is way too small and will give false readings. You have to have volume to test. Put your micron gauge on an empty recovery cylinder , tie your vac pump to the other port on the same recover cyilinder. Start the pump and test. This is the way.
Great roundup. I would disagree w/you about ensuring the vacuum gauge is on the suction side. If you do that, the vacuum may appear good at the gauge while being relatively poor at the far end of the liquid line, given the poor conductance of the liquid line. On the other hand, if you attach your gauge to the liquid line port, when you get a 200 micron reading there you can be sure your vacuum is 200 microns OR BETTER throughout the rest of the system. Naturally it may take a bit longer for your gauge to hit your target, but that's the price you pay for better practice.
Is it not a more accurate micron reading if you were to put the gauge on the liquid side, therefore its reading the level of pressure furthest from the vacuum on the suction line
Good day Craig, thank you for the video I found lots of great information in it. I did have two questions for you. First where did you get and what do you call the black hangers for you hoses. I am talking about the black fitting attached to your vacuum hoses that the hoses threads onto and appear to hang from? Second question, when finishing a repair on a dry system (all refrigerant reclaimed prior to work,) using a two hose setup directly to a vacuum pump with 3 valve core removal tools as you have shown, how do I charge the system without losing vacuum?
With system in vacuum and ball valve(s) closed, remove vacuum hose(s), replace them with your charging hose(s). Open manifold to allow refrigerant to enter hose(s) up to closed ball valve(s). Crack charging hose(s) just long enough to see refrigerant (to purge any non condensibles). Open ball vavle(s) to charge sysem. Close ball valves. When replacing schrader core(s) "burp" the refrigerant at hose end of core removel tool while inserting schrader core(s).
I was pulling a vacuum with an sman380(with built in micron gauge), I know this is not the correct way to do it, that being said I finished my vacuum, performed a decay test it passed, I went to break the vacuum with refrigerant so I purged my yellow hose to make sure I had pure refrigerant in my hose and I got oil out of my yellow hose instead of refrigerant. What type of oil is it? Refrigerant oil or vacuum pump oil, I’m fairly certain it’s not vacuum pump oil, it’s been bugging me for weeks!!! Please respond, thanks man love the videos!!! I really curious as to what and why this happened to me, if anyone knows let me know. Thanks to the community!!
That would be vacuum oil unless there was oil left in that hose from a recovery or checking the charge. The check valve in the pump must not have functioned properly. old pumps didnt have any check valve to stop the oii, thanks!
I have exact same problem.After I finish vacuum with core removal tool, I have got oil coming out of my vacuum hose. During the vacuum process I observe the compressor oil side glass bubbling. I am seriously thinking that might be the compressor oil.it makes me scared pretty bad.When the compressor start to run. oil level comes to normal again on the compressor.But to be honest It is bugging me for quite time now. anyone has experience something like that before? thanks
Great vid this, thanks! If i have moisture in my hoses, would this show as pressure rise when vacuuming down a system? Im certain there are no leaks on my install, hoses, manifold all in good condition but as soon as i isolate the pump, the vac gauge starts to rise rapidly... Any ideas???
Awesome videos! Question on tip 36. I didn't have access to a nitrogen bottle, so went to vaccuum directly on a 12k btu 2-stage compressor minisplit. Temperature outside was 20F. I had to vaccum twice because first time it was decaying 50 microns per 30 minutes from 300 microns initally. Second time it started at 100 microns and went to 160 in 1h, maybe raising very slowly, but seemd good enough. I opened the service valve and gas started leaking from it at 1/4 of a turn, then tried to close it and was still leaking. This lasted like 10s then it stopped. Could it be the valve was frozen, then it lubricated itself and finally sealed properly? It had enough gas for 25ft of lines and mine were cut to 12ft, so should be good I guess. The mini split has been running really well since then producing over 120F in 20F weather. Again, thanks so much for all the detailed videos! Will try to understand your superheat explanations to measure if all is working well.
It's really interesting to see helpful tips on how to setup vaccuming system . Can you make video which shows the procedure for compressor replacement considering scroll and rotary type procedure
I have some Samsung commercial units that the valve core is inside the unit and putting a valve core removal on it is impossible because it's to close to other parts inside. is this normal? I feel like I've seen this before. Any tips for this situation?
Great tips ! One question - woth my micron gage - During standing test a after done a vacuum down to 300 when I go to decay test a that 300 jump to around 700 to 800.. but not any higher .. I know for the fact I got no leaks after checking system with pressure and no leaks .. why is this happen thou ?
Most likely moisture. Time it a few times from the time its takes to go from 300 to 800 to see if its a leak or moisure. If the times changes then its moisture, if its the same each time then its probably a leak
@@allanbrito13 why would moisture in a system boil off at different rates every time you do a vacuum test? Shouldnt you get the same readings over time since the same amount of moisture is in the system?
Moisture tends to get trapped in refrigerant oil and it just sits in there so as Craig was explaining, running the fan on the indoor unit puts a heat load on the evaporator therefore helping to release or boil off some of that moisture that’s trapped in the oil. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Most likely not moisture, but that your hose/gauge setup is not as Craig describes, gauge hard next to the machine etc, hoses esp used with oil cause vac to rise. Even ball valves invariably cause the reading to rise. So that’s why we’re reminded to “play with our balls “ ie late in the vac, exercise the ball valve, watch the reading jump up, then vac another couple minutes, then complete vac
I worked 10 years as a HVAC instructor at a local Junior College the purpose of a vacuum pump is to reduce the volume and pressure to ZERO. We do it all the time hooking a micron gauge to the vacuum pump
Hi Craig, my company only installs mini split systems and deal with new lineset, and we install and commission roughly 4 systems per month. How often would you suggest replacing vacuum pump oil? Thank you for all the excellent content!
Mini splits would pull a quick and very deep vacuum very quickly. I would suggest that you don't go lower than 150 microns in case of a 16ft line set for more than 5 minutes because it might boil to condensation/moisture. I would do at least 8 mini split system's vacuum then change the oil.
At tip 15 it doesn’t sound right. You said don’t remove until you have positive pressure but with this setup the gas will damage the vacuum sensor. Tip 16 is the proper way.
Please, anyone! I am looking for a good decent and most accurate micron gauge. Any suggestions, feedbacks and experiences are welcome. I have used the CPS VG200 for the last couple of years and it had served me well. The screen cracked and it still worked, but someone broke into my storage and stole all my tools and I need to replace them, starting with a good reliable micron gauge.Thank you, in advance!!
When you mention EPA you actually discredit your self like talking about triple evacuation. How about some leaks seal in vacuum vs+ pressure? Give us a real world video
The hoses are not $10. Every vacuum hose I found on Amazon is around $50 each! For me installing my LG Multi-Max system that is one time use, I just use the hoses that came with the cheapo Harbor Freight gauge set. They didn't collapse.
Eh. Look, the best way to leak test is a hydro-pressure test at 15 millichons, which is considerable. After approximately 4 minutes, 12 seconds, relaease the refrigerant into the already hydrated system. Absolute time AND money saver. Water is free. You are welcome.
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Perfect video, currently in school for hvac in Wisconsin and my class right now are recovery, deep vacuum and charge, and then triple Evac. Love this channel good luck to everyone one
So awesome! Make sure that your classmates know of our channel!!! Thanks!
Thx so much!
Craig, commenting on tip #26. I got burnt once early in my career on not changing the vac pump oil. After that I always checked that the pump could pull a deep vacuum. I checked to see if the pump was capable of pulling at least 400 microns prior to hooking it up to the system. That way I knew if I couldn't pull at least 400 microns on the system it could not be the pump's fault. This saved me time in the long run.
As always another high quality video. Thanks, Craig, Rick.
May I add another tip use magnetic tool for holding open any solenoid valves.
This is particularly true on refrigeration systems.
This from experience of 40+ years in the field.
Thank You for your videos they remind me and keep me up to date.
Ice machines for sure
Yes. You need that liquid line solenoid open for proper recovery and evacuation. I do both hvac and refrigeration. That was one thing that tripped me up when I started doing refrigeration and ice machines. Sometimes if I'm in a situation where I can't get to the solenoid (tight space ice machine) I'll disconnect the control wire to the compressor contactor and keep the system energized to keep the solenoid open.
@@P0nderProductions smarty pants
As always so accurate Sir. Since I bought your books I've learned a lot from you and appreciate your patience of explaining.
You're the best.
As always, great job. Your are like the diesel tech Ron of the hvac world. I don’t miss a video you post, always great stuff!!!!
Rest in peace, diesel tech Ron. He was similarly helpful.
Rock solid video !!!!! Your knowledge of hvac trade is off the charts . I really enjoy your videos they are great reference tools .
David, thank you very much for your encouragement!!!
Awesome video! Has helped us as Newbies to AC identify a couple of errors. Thanks!
I hooked up two vacuum pumps in the same system. Truly it is a double times and I did vacuumed much faster. Thank you so much!!!
Yes. On any job where 2 techs show up, get the vacuum pump from both vans. But look out! On cool days, ice forms way easier with 2.
I got my EPA 608 for DIY purposes. I had problems pulling a vacuum on the last few mini-splits I installed. My practical knowledge has been a bit light. This was extremely informative and I'm now pretty sure where I went wrong. Thanks.
Thanks for the consistent quality of content. Have a good weekend
So encouraging, thanks!
This will be a long one... Ive never seen 500 microns on anything so far. I put my BlueVac Pro with Nylog on the 1/4” connection to test the pumps ability / oil. It pulled down to about 70 microns. Then I hooked up a 1/4” X 1/4” hose with Nylog to an empty recovery container. After 15 minutes it stopped at about 1800 microns. I switched to a new Appion 3/8” (1/2” hose) X 1/4” connector to the tank and it pegged out at about 780 microns after 15 minutes. I have the Ritchie tower on my pump that has two 3/8”taps and one 1/4” tap on the top and a ball valve. These are new and not worn out, and specificaly designed for vacuum. Now physics tells me that pressure goes from higher to lower, always. If I register 70 microns on the pump, physics tells me that the 780 microns I got with the larger vacuum hose was just overcoming an ongoing leak (possibly ) in the recovery tank? How would I go about checking the tank for a leak? R22 and Nitrogen?
Great tips.
Remember to protect (disconnect) the compressor electrical if running the unit “fan” on depending on the equipment. Pulling a vacuum with a compressor that has power will toast it.
Amazing, more videos like this please, the sequence of tips for any element of the job is super helpful. Thank you for sharing👌
Thank you so much! Thanks for your encouragement!
All great tips but TIP #35 took my attention by far. This is (most probably) is the reason why the PROS don't do a triple vacuum. Thanks Craig!
You got it! Exactly!
The best refrigeration technician of the whole internet.
GOD BLESS AMERICA !
Agree
Not sure about that but we certainly try very hard to teach what we know to help others! Thank you so much!
@@acservicetechchannel "Not sure about that" .. Im sure about that . GOD BLESS YOU AND GOD BLESS AMERICA . *KEEP* AMERICA GREAT 🇺🇸👍
Love the video, but I will say to try these tips on lennox residential equipment. Good luck using core removers without bending/unscrewing service valves and cabinet pieces. I've been using the same Ritchie vacuum pump for 15 years and I change the oil after EVERY use, just as the instructions say to. I can say from experience that MANY techs will only change their oil after 20 uses, these techs also buy a new vacuum pump every 1-3 years also.
Your lessons are very professional indeed.
Super accurate, highly informative content
Thanks for great teaching like always
So glad it helps!!!
Tip 32 don’t use vac gauge as pressure test, YES, a test at negative 15psi isn’t much of a test.
Another tip “Keep the sensor upright, to avoid contamination” (Found in bold lettering on the Yellow Jacket vac gauge. )
Another: make up copper lines rather than rubber hoses, to get a super low vacuum
Great job CRAIG.
Great video. It justified a few techniques I do! Thank you!
Currently going to school for hvac and we use the tree on vacuum pump for micron gauge. Ill have to show him this video
Great info ! Thank you...
Great tips. TIP 19 Game changer
Great video! Thanks!
That's one Crazy MIC..... Great Tips
Excellent n very informative video n have a Good Day n keep them coming 👍
Squoshed... Did I spell that right?
Great job, thank you very much. This all would have helped me when I first started. I had lots of problems in this area.
Tip 11, Pre hair cut. Tip 12 Post hair cut. Lol All good stuff here. Been doing this stuff here and there for over 20 years and Im still fine tuning my craft with this guys help.
Ha! Good spotting! 😄
thank you for your work sir, very nice work
Install your vacuum gauge vertically, pointing up. This will limit, if not prevent the oil from entering the gauge and contaminating the sensor. I do keep a small bottle of rubbing alcohol in my van. Also a small plastic syringe.
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it Danny!
CPS VG200 manual states its maximum working pressure is 600 PSIG with a burst pressure of 3000 psig. It also states that it's has a thermistor sensor which cannot be damaged from exposure to positive pressure or oil mist. No need for the second valve core tool.
Craig, this comment has nothing to do with this video; I was wondering if you have any videos on duct sizing and the importance of using Manual D?
Great Video!
Thanks for the great video!
Thank you so much about your tips experience
Awesome Tips 🦾😎
Wow very nice video step by step
Thanks!!!
Perfect video!!
Thank you!
You’re awesome bro!
Very good information thanks
Compre tu libro 📚 y simplemente genial ! Gracias
Love it! There's so much variation in vacuum decay test out there! If you ask Google it says "vacuum shall not rise above 1500 microns in 15 minutes" is there an allowance for rise in a 10 minute test? Or does it have to stay under 200microns?
Awesome video> Thanks a ton!!
nice hair cut at tip 12!
Great. Very informative. Q. Where can I purchase a 1-2' vacuum rated hose from?
Beautiful thanks
( I do not know Bayer from aspirin please excuse total unawareness) The truly highly rated school Videos on you tube. Seem. To Deep /clean/pressure test. At same points. Actually looks like exact same process. But, With Nitric oxide tank at one High level psi.Find leak(s) then while Fix leaks, Braise running .005 Noxide through area being Braised, durning process. Question. Is this procedure an alternative to what you present. Or an unnecessary , complicated, mostly EXPERIENCE procedure. You seem to help people keep an Eye on the Cost. Any helpful knowledge sincerely appreciated. Somebody just vandalized my HVAC. Whoooopi, I am a HVAC. And yes I spite of the obvious “I first called a professional “ But PERFER to keep on a pleasant tone. Separate the evil from the evil people do! Thank you all. What a great, Highly intelligent level profession. Wo da a Eva dunk it! Thanks
Craig, let's say its a 3 head mini system with a total of 130' of line, we did a 600 psi nitrogen test, say zero sign of leaks on the 12 connections & then we proceed to vac down. 1/2" appion hose on a 10 CFM pump, valve core removed and we perform a 1.5 hr vacc and get it down to 250 microns. After the 15 minute decay it rises up to 370 and hangs out around there- would you call it good or would you let the vacc run a bit longer? Thank you!! We have always been told under 500 is good to go.....
Tip#14 question:
Would having the micron gauge on the liquid line not give you a true reading?
For example, I’ve been using my two valve core removal tool set up with the micron gauge on the liquid side. 3/8-1/4 hoses. I’ve triple vacuum the systems breaking the vacuum with nitrogen. After I’ve reached a micron level of about 200, I close the valves, turned of the pump and do the decayed test. So far I’ve always stayed under 500 microns.
You can certainly do that. However, you will likely notice a higher initial rise during the standing vac test, thats all. It only has to do with the smaller size 3/8" line compared to the suction line, thanks!
I like to put my micron gauge on the vacuum pump to test how low my pump will pull. If your vacuum pump won't go below 600 or 700 microns, you'll never pull a good vacuum so test your pump.
This practice will not work for most vacuum gauges. I have tried many times. The issue is the volume of air from the port of the vacuum guage tied directly to the micron gauge is way too small and will give false readings. You have to have volume to test. Put your micron gauge on an empty recovery cylinder , tie your vac pump to the other port on the same recover cyilinder. Start the pump and test. This is the way.
Never out your gauge on your pump, it proves nothing. I’m speaking more for guys that pull a vacuum and hook it up to the pump 🤦♂️
@@taylerellis378 as a natural born dummy who fell into this amazing field, I appreciate your comment AND the mando reference.
@@murkyturkey5238 Some pumps have a valve so you can see the vacuum while the pump isn't running.
Your pump should go down on a only micron guage pull to around 50 microns
Thank you explained it very well 😊
Just got into this trade feeling real confident with it
That is great to hear!
Thank you professor great work
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Great roundup. I would disagree w/you about ensuring the vacuum gauge is on the suction side. If you do that, the vacuum may appear good at the gauge while being relatively poor at the far end of the liquid line, given the poor conductance of the liquid line. On the other hand, if you attach your gauge to the liquid line port, when you get a 200 micron reading there you can be sure your vacuum is 200 microns OR BETTER throughout the rest of the system. Naturally it may take a bit longer for your gauge to hit your target, but that's the price you pay for better practice.
Is it not a more accurate micron reading if you were to put the gauge on the liquid side, therefore its reading the level of pressure furthest from the vacuum on the suction line
Perfect 👍 thanks
Good day Craig, thank you for the video I found lots of great information in it. I did have two questions for you. First where did you get and what do you call the black hangers for you hoses. I am talking about the black fitting attached to your vacuum hoses that the hoses threads onto and appear to hang from? Second question, when finishing a repair on a dry system (all refrigerant reclaimed prior to work,) using a two hose setup directly to a vacuum pump with 3 valve core removal tools as you have shown, how do I charge the system without losing vacuum?
With system in vacuum and ball valve(s) closed, remove vacuum hose(s), replace them with your charging hose(s). Open manifold to allow refrigerant to enter hose(s) up to closed ball valve(s). Crack charging hose(s) just long enough to see refrigerant (to purge any non condensibles). Open ball vavle(s) to charge sysem. Close ball valves. When replacing schrader core(s) "burp" the refrigerant at hose end of core removel tool while inserting schrader core(s).
How is water going to FREEZE in a deep vacuum? The low pressure lowers the boiling temp.
Its been proven..theres people who be doing all this stuff while we at work or watching corn
I was pulling a vacuum with an sman380(with built in micron gauge), I know this is not the correct way to do it, that being said I finished my vacuum, performed a decay test it passed, I went to break the vacuum with refrigerant so I purged my yellow hose to make sure I had pure refrigerant in my hose and I got oil out of my yellow hose instead of refrigerant. What type of oil is it? Refrigerant oil or vacuum pump oil, I’m fairly certain it’s not vacuum pump oil, it’s been bugging me for weeks!!! Please respond, thanks man love the videos!!! I really curious as to what and why this happened to me, if anyone knows let me know. Thanks to the community!!
That would be vacuum oil unless there was oil left in that hose from a recovery or checking the charge. The check valve in the pump must not have functioned properly. old pumps didnt have any check valve to stop the oii, thanks!
I have exact same problem.After I finish vacuum with core removal tool, I have got oil coming out of my vacuum hose.
During the vacuum process I observe the compressor oil side glass bubbling. I am seriously thinking that might be the compressor oil.it makes me scared pretty bad.When the compressor start to run. oil level comes to normal again on the compressor.But to be honest It is bugging me for quite time now. anyone has experience something like that before? thanks
Great vid this, thanks! If i have moisture in my hoses, would this show as pressure rise when vacuuming down a system? Im certain there are no leaks on my install, hoses, manifold all in good condition but as soon as i isolate the pump, the vac gauge starts to rise rapidly... Any ideas???
I recommend Dow-Corning high vacuum grease over nylog or refrigerant oil. It doesn't soak into the rubber, it's easy to apply and it's inert.
Test your equipment regularly, don't buy cheap VCRT's. Make sure hose aren't leaking. Thanks Craig.
Awesome videos! Question on tip 36. I didn't have access to a nitrogen bottle, so went to vaccuum directly on a 12k btu 2-stage compressor minisplit. Temperature outside was 20F. I had to vaccum twice because first time it was decaying 50 microns per 30 minutes from 300 microns initally. Second time it started at 100 microns and went to 160 in 1h, maybe raising very slowly, but seemd good enough. I opened the service valve and gas started leaking from it at 1/4 of a turn, then tried to close it and was still leaking. This lasted like 10s then it stopped. Could it be the valve was frozen, then it lubricated itself and finally sealed properly? It had enough gas for 25ft of lines and mine were cut to 12ft, so should be good I guess. The mini split has been running really well since then producing over 120F in 20F weather. Again, thanks so much for all the detailed videos! Will try to understand your superheat explanations to measure if all is working well.
Hey. On a multi zone with the master valves. Can I hook my hose to it. Or just to the service ports.
It's really interesting to see helpful tips on how to setup vaccuming system . Can you make video which shows the procedure for compressor replacement considering scroll and rotary type procedure
What about recips and aemihermetics,,?
Semi hermetics
Yes semi hermetic rotary and scroll compressor
Question about tip 16 , if I were to add a core depressor insides of a 3rd valve core removal tool wouldn’t it do the same thing ? 10:14
A good video to forward and pass around 👍
That would be awesome and thanks for your multiple comments on each of the platforms! I notice!!!! Thanks a lot! It is encouraging!
I have some Samsung commercial units that the valve core is inside the unit and putting a valve core removal on it is impossible because it's to close to other parts inside. is this normal? I feel like I've seen this before. Any tips for this situation?
Sir kindly share some small tips and tricks that are also controlled by technician as well engineer
Great tips !
One question - woth my micron gage - During standing test a after done a vacuum down to 300 when I go to decay test a that 300 jump to around 700 to 800.. but not any higher .. I know for the fact I got no leaks after checking system with pressure and no leaks .. why is this happen thou ?
Most likely moisture. Time it a few times from the time its takes to go from 300 to 800 to see if its a leak or moisure. If the times changes then its moisture, if its the same each time then its probably a leak
@@allanbrito13 why would moisture in a system boil off at different rates every time you do a vacuum test? Shouldnt you get the same readings over time since the same amount of moisture is in the system?
@@raidone7413 because you'd be pulling more moisture out of the system each time
Moisture tends to get trapped in refrigerant oil and it just sits in there so as Craig was explaining, running the fan on the indoor unit puts a heat load on the evaporator therefore helping to release or boil off some of that moisture that’s trapped in the oil. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Most likely not moisture, but that your hose/gauge setup is not as Craig describes, gauge hard next to the machine etc, hoses esp used with oil cause vac to rise.
Even ball valves invariably cause the reading to rise. So that’s why we’re reminded to “play with our balls “ ie late in the vac, exercise the ball valve, watch the reading jump up, then vac another couple minutes, then complete vac
I worked 10 years as a HVAC instructor at a local Junior College the purpose of a vacuum pump is to reduce the volume and pressure to ZERO. We do it all the time hooking a micron gauge to the vacuum pump
In my opinion you don't need to worry about moisture freezing up in the line once you purge with nitrogen first
If your vacuum is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit the moisture will boil
Does the vacuum pump exhaust cap need to be on or off while pump is running?
Hi Craig, my company only installs mini split systems and deal with new lineset, and we install and commission roughly 4 systems per month. How often would you suggest replacing vacuum pump oil? Thank you for all the excellent content!
Mini splits would pull a quick and very deep vacuum very quickly. I would suggest that you don't go lower than 150 microns in case of a 16ft line set for more than 5 minutes because it might boil to condensation/moisture. I would do at least 8 mini split system's vacuum then change the oil.
Every time you pull a vacuum 😜
@@techbullet1020 what are you talking about? Might boil to condensation? That's what we are removing from the system. Tech bullet? Tech dum f...
Every 40 hours I do mine
Removing Non condensibles or condensibles?
At tip 15 it doesn’t sound right. You said don’t remove until you have positive pressure but with this setup the gas will damage the vacuum sensor. Tip 16 is the proper way.
Then the vaccum gauge needs another valve before it so it can cancel it out..just like the fieldpiece triple valve core remover
Grazie 🙏
The 6ft 3/8" Appion Vacuum Certified hose is $60, so what do you mean they're not expensive?
I mean your refrigeration hoses are pretty close to that price. Just the cost of doing business
Hey question are the little hoses vacuum rated or are the black hoses the only ones vacuum rated
wish i saw this two weeks ago.
Please, anyone! I am looking for a good decent and most accurate micron gauge. Any suggestions, feedbacks and experiences are welcome. I have used the CPS VG200 for the last couple of years and it had served me well. The screen cracked and it still worked, but someone broke into my storage and stole all my tools and I need to replace them, starting with a good reliable micron gauge.Thank you, in advance!!
Hi sir make one video for compressor blast reason
In India lots of incident happen and some technician death
When you mention EPA you actually discredit your self like talking about triple evacuation.
How about some leaks seal in vacuum vs+ pressure?
Give us a real world video
I usually disconnect the vacuum gauge while the vacuum pump is still running and then let it run for a while before adding refrigerant…
9:36
What kind of shrader tool are you using, i don't pull them out because any shrader tool i have seen leaks a little
Those were appion vcrt's and they work very well, thanks!
I agree with AC guru. Apion is the best for this purpose.
@@acservicetechchannel okay cool, thank you
The hoses are not $10. Every vacuum hose I found on Amazon is around $50 each! For me installing my LG Multi-Max system that is one time use, I just use the hoses that came with the cheapo Harbor Freight gauge set. They didn't collapse.
Why doesn't anyone make a core remover with both ports after the shut off valve? Then no need for a second valve.
You are right
HI CRAIG,YOU ANSWER QUESTIONS ON HERE
Gaskets! Check your gaskets!
🏆
Thanks Cory!
Eh. Look, the best way to leak test is a hydro-pressure test at 15 millichons, which is considerable. After approximately 4 minutes, 12 seconds, relaease the refrigerant into the already hydrated system. Absolute time AND money saver. Water is free. You are welcome.
Shizat the rizzat???
1st problem is he’s using charging hoses. Not vacuum hoses.
2nd problem he is using 1/4” hoses.
Tip number 41 if you dont have proper tools to do ac work stay home...im tired of fixing your screw ups...
Thats a felony
tip 16 refrigerant oil ??? should not be present in virgin refrigerant.
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