Why I Choose A ONE Hose VACUUM Setup | HVAC Installations
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I get asked often why I choose a one hose vacuum setup over a traditional two hose setup. It's easy, fewer connections (leak points) is always better for a speedy vacuum process. And when you use a 3/4" inner diameter hose with the 8 cfm Fieldpiece VP87, paired with the MG44 vacuum gauge, you can verify a quick and accurate vacuum. This setup has worked great for all the different applications I've worked in. Unless I'm working on a very large HVAC system, it's a one hose setup for me. Hope you enjoy the video!!
#skilledtrades #hvac #fieldpiece - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Put a little 1/4” ball valve before the micron gauge. When your done evacuating, close the valve, remove the micron gauge and open the stop valves, then remove the ball valve. You’ll never worry about messing up that sensor that way.
I guess I should’ve read b4 posting a comment. Great minds think a like lol
I was going to say this as I have had one ruined via refrigerant
What does your gauge do when it’s ruined. Stop working or not reading right?
😂you beat me to it
@@juanlanda2561 it doesn’t read correctly. just try and clean it with some IP Alcohol
This is one of the channels that helped me choose a career in residential hvac.. currently studying for epa cert. Thanks Zac...Miami FL.
Nice bro keep going I’m in Hvac here in Miami FL I do commercial. Work like a dog 65-70 hours a week but you never stop learning I’m on year #3
Soy un admirador de su trabajo. Yo también me dedico a lo mismo y algún día me gustaría ser tan bueno como usted y tener toda esa herramienta que te facilita mucho el trabajo. Para hacer trabajos perfectos.
Quisiera saber si puede subir video con un equipo minisplit haciéndole la prueba con nitrógeno, me gustaría ver ese procedimiento y aprender. Muchas gracias por subir y compartir sus videos.
De antemano muchas gracias y espero y le llegue el mensaje y me de una respuesta. Cuidese atentamente un servidor y admirador.
I've been teaching myself HVAC service by watching TH-cam videos for an hour everyday before I clock in at work. I have a couple other channels I watch regularly but I recently found your channel and have subscribed. Keep up the good work bud.
It’s a lot of little things that are pretty straight forward to learn, until it’s not lol
One thing that's pretty neat about those fieldpiece manifolds, when you put the suction clamp on the refrigerant line during test tightness, it will factor in the change in ambient temperature. So that -.6 that you had might have just been ambient temperature decrease.
Hi, I've never heard about the HVAC trade before but I watched all of your videos. I really enjoyed it and I've decided to start my career with HVAC. I appreciate your tons of content and hope the next video will come out soon!!!
goodluck brotha its a great experience!
Great trade always something new and lots of money to be made!!!
Az HVAC installs paying 850$ plus modifications. Summertime installs usually pay 1000- 1200 piece rate... So yes sir great Career 👍
Also 130-170 degrees in those attics
@@RKTSH1P where tf do they pay that at, scam companies?🤣 i get $650-$750 per install. $900 max if its really complicated which is rare.
Unless you are talking about private jobs. Then makes sense. I work for big corporations as a subcontractor.
I like a core removal tool on the the micron gauge to reduce oil getting in it when you release the charge.
You don’t need a core removal at the liquid line. Once your vaccum is where you want it to be then then you can remove the micron gauge and you shouldn’t loose your vaccum because you’re not suppose to remove the shredded valve in the liquid line and then you can add the refrigerant in the system
@@emidiolopez1409 if it's still in a vacuum when you take off your micron gauge off the liquid service port you're going to be sucking in non-condensables.
@@sirfishalot6992 I do 100 microns and turn off my pump and wait about 15 minutes to make sure it doesn’t rise and then I remove my micron gauge with the pump being off so I do believe it won’t suck any moisture in the lines
@@emidiolopez1409 you take the micron gauge off the liquid line port while the line is still in a vacuum?
@@sirfishalot6992 I do it exactly how he does it on the video but I just remove my micron gauge to keep it oil free. The way he does it on the video he leaves his micron gauge while adding refrigerant
I’ve been doing the one hose set up for a few years now it works great.. I just use something like a core tool for the micron so I can valve it off before letting refrigerant or oil get on the sensor.. just a tip good video!
Correct!
Can this setup be useful in commercial systems as well?
Another great video Zac... hope to see you at the next HVAC symposium in Florida!
I concur, fully opening the suction valve under vac will suck the oil out of the compressor. I've done it both ways and one makes for a much quieter operation. Personally, I pre- charge the lineset after evac to not have it under any negative pressure, when opening the valves.
1:47 - When would it be appropriate to purge with nitrogen before pressuring for the test?
you should put a core removal tool on your liquid line with your micron gauge so that when you break the vacuum with freon that you dont get it in your micron gauge which can affect its accuracy over time will mess them up
Love your channel bro, but seeing your evac setup in the thumb nail, the main question i had was "no bluVac Micron gauge?" 😋
That aside, you do raise some good points, and depending on the system I am working on, will often only pull one of my trublu hoses from my kit for the job... however I work primary on grocery systems, so mileage will vary there. I also carry two pumps on my truck, the VP87, and VPX7, and sometimes will use both on one circuit. i will however use one hose per pump, so I guess I'm still on the up there. lol Good vid all the same.
Also kudos on the carry container for your evac kit. exactly the same packout one I use for mine. You know whats up. 😆
Incredible job. 👍 Everything is correct and your technique is great. Another tip for fast and deep vacuums is to get or make a Tee fitting that will allow you to attach both ends of your single vacuum hose together end to end in a closed loop with no valve cores on each end, and then you can attach a nitrogen hose to the 3rd fitting WITH a core in it so you can purge the vac hose full of dry nitrogen under just a tiny bit of pressure (like 1 or 2 PSI) to prevent wet air ingress while in storage. Attach the nitrogen hose, attach the ends together, tighten one and crack the other, and then flow nitrogen for a couple seconds to blow alllllll the air out before reducing the pressure a lot and tightening that fitting. Store the hose like that and it will not get full of water molecules while in storage. Those water molecules have to be evacuated too when you vacuum a system and it just adds more volume of gas that has to be removed which adds time. Manifold gauges should be stored like that too, or with some clean refrigerant left in them at a low pressure to avoid air ingress. Also check the integrity of your hose seals, core tool, and manifolds by bench testing them every 2 weeks. Pull a deep vacuum on them like testing the vacuum pump oil and then seal them off and let them sit for 5-6 hours or even overnight. Core tool seals are particularly important to test because it's a shaft seal that has to seal a moving rod rather than a fixed seal which is just clamped down firmly. If you have a really old core removal tool that you never cleaned and lubed or bench tested, it may very well surprise you to see that it's leaking a good amount of pressure and vacuum. We don't accept leaks! New seals and Nylog are cheap and it lets us sleep well at night. 😺
Why do all that work and buy expensive fittings jussst to be able to use one hose at the end? At that point I rather use 2 hoses one at the liquid and one at the suction and 3 valve core removal tools or one single hose process with one core removal tool and micron gauge at the liquid??? Doesn’t that sound easiest?
Everything is not correct. Larger ID hose takes LONGER to evac and pull down. Think about it.
@@rickjames6948 no it doesn't. The length of the hose is short. As such is negligible and will pull down very quickly. The internal ID means a stronger vacuum source on the system, which pulls it down quicker.
Say that again. Maybe video what you just said. I can’t visualize. Thanks
I gotcha. Had to read again. Great tip. Thanks. That’s my biggest gripe! My vacuum hoses getting dirty in storage.
I love your work Zach. But I got to say doing a two hose set up with the micron gauge on the suction side DOES NOT give you an inaccurate reading whatsoever. I pretty much only use a two hose set up and not only is it faster, (especially when pulling on a used coil) but the decay test proves just how low the micron count is. Either way, your set up is a beast but just thought I’d share my thoughts on your reasoning for only 1 hose
Been pulling vacuums like that for many years with zero problems.
@@seanmathews1826 same
You’re first statement is a miss I think
Your idea makes sense in theory, but I’ve found this to be irrelevant in actual practice. I recently pulled a vac on a 10 ton split with about 70ft of piping. I had two tru blue hoses with a tee and micron gauge at the condenser and another micron gauge at a service port in the air handler. I was mainly doing this to check the difference of my two micron gauges. They were both reading within 10 microns of each other while pulling. It seems like after a few minutes of vacuum time the difference becomes irrelevant. I prefer a two hose set up because it will ultimately pull a vacuum faster, although on smaller residential units that time difference also becomes pretty insignificant. Kind of a wash at that point.
One of our techs swears by putting his micron gauge on the pump itself and sees nothing wrong with it dropping to 80 microns after 30 seconds.
I love this setup, techniques and equipment. But man the cost of that blue hose is probably more than that pump last time I checked. Gotta mortgage the house for some of this stuff. I agree quality wins in the end tho.
I do both setups. Most of the time I like having two hoses then valve off the liquid line and let it continue to pull down. Force of habit on large commercial systems or contaminated systems to use two hoses. New installs one hose all day long.
I’m with you on this especially using the Navac 2cfm battery vacuum I just got from trutech tools and the electric flaring tool also don’t know how I lived with out this and why it did not come out years ago
2 cfm seems like a joke but the battery idea seems genius. I don’t have one
@@murkyturkey5238 get it you won’t regret it but get a 9amp battery so you have the 5 amp that comes with it and the 9 I have used mine about 20 times and I have saved about 30% or more in time on every job
I have their mini split flaring tool best tool ever
I do more refrigernation than AC and maybe that is why i do this but I find the smaller the system the more important it is to keep the vac gauge away from the pump, also on really small stuff I find my appion hoses pull too fast and I get mositure freezing in the system if I am not careful. On larger systems it is gonna take awhile to pull a good vacuum regardless, I was on a walk in cooler for a high school that was started up like 6 months ago (not by my company) that has a 3ft tall reciever (the system takes more than a full can of 448a), I had to flush and vacuum the whole system the other day. I didn't want to start shit so I kept my mouth shut to the customer but the install team screwed the pooch on that system. I was there because the evaporator was dripping on the floor, heavy frosting on the entry side of the evap, big shocker low charge, the valve core was so loose it was dripping liquid, I charged it to a clear sight glass the compressor cycled off and that when I saw it, sand cloth dust floating in the sight glass lots of it. I talked to the MFG because it was still under warrenty and suggested that we needed to flush the system or this compressor won't make it even to the end of the warrenty, they agreed and I spent the next few hours on a cold windy roof, lol good times, also thats the first time I have seen so much dust in a system that it was immidantly apparent in the sight glass. Great videos too man keep up the good work.
My experience with Fieldpiece has been they're the Chrysler of HVAC; well designed, creative good ideas, but poorly built. When I had barbed nipples snap off my manometer (everyone else has steel barbed nipples) I said, "no more." Remember their blue temp K clamps? We had to wrap them with electrical tape day one.
I like the one hose setup. I've been doing for years. I'll bet my apprentice doesn't know you can pull a vacuum with manifold gauges.
Lmao honestly
Yeah I lost one nipple on my Fieldpiece manometer already. From carelessly removing a vinyl tube that was on there too long I think. But I agree, they're extremely flimsy plastic.
There are a few reasons why I agree with the ONE hose vacuum setup for HVAC installations. First, it is much more efficient because you have one less hose to move around. Second, it is more organized and neater looking. And finally, it is easier to use and less likely to cause problems.
I've experimented with the two hose set up and single hose, pulling through a manifold the "old school" methods. I decided the single hose method works best for me. Although I use a core tool/valve on the liquid line as well so I can isolate my micron gauge and keep it oil free.
Okay but why can’t you just leave the shredded valve in the liquid line and remove your micron gauge when you’re about to add refrigerant?? Not saying your way is wrong though
@@emidiolopez1409 when unscrewing the micron gauge from the valve it’s possible for the system to suck in moisture when the schrader is still partially depressed, I bought a C&D valve core depressor tool to hook my micron gauge to
@@emidiolopez1409 you can compromise your vacuum pull.
@@skrt_n6518 I’ve been doing a single hose process like the video shows but I usually remove my micron gage before adding refrigerant( shredded valve still in). I do believe it wont suck moisture in the lines because when you remove your micron gage you lose a bit of your microns so youre basically pushing pressure out of your liquid line not pulling air out of the shredded valves thats why its important to get a really good vaccum so you still stay below 500 mic incase you lose that many microns when you remove your micron gage.
@@emidiolopez1409 100%
Can you do a video of must have tools when starting
I have a selection of vacuum pumps but one in particular is a lot of fun. It's a 17CFM 2 stage belt driven vacuum pump. This thing will pull a 4 or 5 plex down at the SAME time to less than 100 microns in barely 15 minutes. I use a very small air tank as a vacuum reservoir to connect multiple hoses (up to 6) simultaneously.
What's it called, I'm trying to see that thing?
Good day boss from Ghana 🇬🇭 please is it necessary for HVAC TECHNICIAN to learn HVAC systems design... Wait for your feedback
I’m just getting into HVAC as a career and begin classes next month. My question is does the company you work for supply these tools (vacuum, guages, etc.) or is it up to you to buy your own?
Company will supply the tools,you might not get brand new. but eventually you’ll want to buy them on your own.
Depends on the company. Most companies I know of will provide you with a recovery machine, vacuum pump, and ladders. You might get passed hand me downs if your team is cool, but manifolds, torches, meters, hand tools, etc, is all on you. Some companies even give annual tool allowances.
I always braze with nitrogen then high pressure test and do the triple Evac until my microns are below 500. Seemed like I was having a few new units that were running with some noncondensibles. I was told by an engineer that you normally don’t want to pressure test a system that is pumped down over 250psi. Supposedly the valves are not great at holding excessive back pressure and can cause a small amount of nitrogen to leak back into the condenser. Especially if the pressure you’re testing are higher than the pressure inside the condenser.. I’m not sure how true it is, but I have started to pressure test 200psi or lower, double checking my connections with bubbles and have had much better results.
New video wya
All that big blue hose does it make THAT company more money. Larger hose takes LONGER to evac and pull down. Think about it.......
450 psi is a waste of nitrogen. You don’t need more than 150psi. I can see using 300-400psi if you’re actively performing a leak check with a mix of a 1-2 lbs Freon and nitrogen while using a leak detector or your ears to detect a Freon leak.
She's a leeka' momma' she's a leeka'. A drop is a drop. Why leave when you have a leak?
😂😂😂 you made me remember Steve Larimore 😂😂
@@mrcrux213 Steve is the best. What I do NOT like about him is all his on video, gas and goes. If the customer doesn't want a leak test AND repair, I wouldn't even mess with them.
Can someone please explain, how using a larger ID BLUE hose, evacs quicker? So a 12" sewer pipe is even better or less/lower evac times? I know in the motorcycle and car braking world, stainless lines are SMALLER inside giving better braking. I think the HVAC world has found some suckers LOL.
I finally ordered a decent hose, 1/2”. I was going to get a bigger pump but most say the hose is more important then the pump for most systems
I'm hoping you have stopped with the one hose method, it won't work well and will result in an improper evacuation with heat pump systems and those with check valve expansion valves and check valves within the scroll compressors. Some Carrier units include an electric solenoid valve to stop flow in the liquid line. . It only makes sense to pull vacuum from two ports as it will take half the time.
thanks for this video, just little suggestion, in the future can you make quick close screenshot or take a few second to shot for any host connections for your test and installation, thanks
On a compressor unit say 5 tons and under, typical house size unit, using 2 foot ID BLUE hoses and a 97 stage vacuum pump is a total joke. Removing valve cores which WILL leak once reinstalled is another joke. I would splurge on all that new way over priced gear if it took say, DAYS to pull a vacuum on a typical home system. It doesn't at all.
could u vaccc it from the liquid line too and put the micron cage on the vapor port ?
Those larger pumps like 7cfm and such are not needed to pull a proper deep vacuum. All you need is a simple portable air conditioner unit compressor. Will pull down to 25 microns. Largest hose you need is 3/8". No need for radiator hoses trying to pull a vacuum. Doesn't work that way. Test it yourself with a small 1/4" hose and a 1.5cfm pump. No need to spend hundreds on purpose built HVAC pumps.
The only issue I see is when removing your micron gauge the way you hooked it up like you said it might let in the air which it does. I use a low lost fitting or use a valve core remover on both liquid and suction. Depends on which style you have Low loss fittings you have to spin a knob to press the core down or away to shut it close (front seat/ back seat) so you reduce the amount of air going back into the system. I have the Appion AV760 micron gauge and I can’t let refrigerant hit the sensor.
That's crazy fast
All Trane/American standard units say to pressure test to 150psi. We had 6-12 units where the nitrogen wound up contaminating the refrigerant due to it pushing through the service valves during a pressure test. We thought there were leaks due to the pressure dropping, only to find out it was leaking into the outdoor. At the high cost of 410a that can be an expensive mistake.
Bro, nothing can stop a trane 🛑
@@samalmo I can
Sounds like someone did not use use a wet rag or cool gel when brazing their copper and the valves warped
@@seanshadysullivan4401 I've had it on minisplits where I pressure tested to 600 psi and it was leaking past the valves kept looking for a leak inside.
@@HVAC544 I would squirt bubbles on all my flared fittings
You can use the wireless temp clamps with the SM480V digital manifold?
Pulling a deep vacuum fast isn’t always good, moisture can freeze and not be removed from the system
More so on older systems I’ve noticed this . But On a brand new unit and lineset you can pull pretty quick and not worry
I had an argument with my college instructor on this and his opinion was the same as yours. However, water boils at -24 degrees F @ 250 microns. So if you pull the system down in say 70 deg ambient conditions, won't the copper conduct the ambient heat and boil off any frozen moisture if any even exists?
My only question is did you pressure test to 450 psi? Some manuals actually state only pressure test up to 150 psi. I used to always fill up to 300psi until my boss said read the manual! Lol awesome video!
What did the low side design test pressure say on the name plate?
Always go off the low pressure side on the name plate. It will tell you the max design pressure.. I keep it a bit under that. From what I have been told if you don't bring your pressure high enough you may miss a leak..
The book for my American Standard/Trane units says around 175. Honestly not sure why? I do like it higher but I follow the book. My vacuum tells me how tight I am also.
TBH i was told only go 150PSI because u have a chance of blowing out the TXV but not 100% sure. so I've been told thats all
I usually do about 200 - 250 psi but i didn't know about that 150 psi limit.
I like vacuuming both lines, which makes more sense to me, because I’d rather have the system go down down down down down down down down down down to 35 instead of vacuuming on one line and it takes 45 minutes to an hour. Why wouldn’t I wanna evacuated to 43 m and just be done with it?
I break the vacuum just above 5psi to remove micron gauge. Doesn’t really matter but I like to avoid blasting liquid in my hands. Had a shraeder core blow out on me once. Must have been stripped by the last guy
Not even gonna lie I only start watching your videos a couple months ago not understanding shii til I got to school FW today I’m actually able yo follow along and understand and appreciate your vids because it’s entertaining and helps me at school
Great Job 😉👍🏽Is That The Same GMC With Out The Cap And Tool Rool Out
Just did a trane class not that long ago and 450 psi is wayyyy too much for pressure testing those units. They recommend not going above 175
It was a good day, you didn't even have to use your AK.
The vacuum pump is 8cfm. I bought the same vacuum pump but it is a 6cfm. Do you think it will still get the job done?
Where did you get the Compressed nitrogen in that aluminum cylinder. I cannot find a supply house that carries the aluminum cylinders.
Been a fan of ur channel for a while great work, my only question why there is a lot of oil in your vacuum machine?
15-20 minutes on the evacuation?
I’ve been here 3 hrs waiting for this thing to pull down. 😳
Why using a commercial vacuum for residential.. you a Salesman?
Love watching your videos from South Texas. Your quality of work is awesome. I work for a school district full time and do my own jobs and service calls in between. One thing you could show is when you test your vacuum pump/ oil is having the hose hooked up to the pump with the micron gauge on the other end to make sure your hose is good too. Love your one hose set up. Your videos are the reason I went to that after numerous times of having manifolds or hoses not being vacuum rated and failing trying to pull a system or package unit down.
Why wouldn’t you put a core removal tool behind your micron gauge, so after you pull the vacuum and b4 you release the charge you could close it off and not worry about ruining your sensor on your micron gauge. I paid a lot of money for mine and I’m not rolling the dice if I don’t need to. I pull a vacuum the exact same way but I use a core removal tool on both high and low side for that reason!
Run a micron decay test for 10 minuets and it doesn't matter where you put the micron gauge or if you have 2 hoses because the pump will be isolated.
Can this method work on any type of vacuum pump? I’m new to this trade and haven’t had the opportunity to be in the field. I can’t wait
You have the legacy trublu hose don’t you. Yours look slightly different than mine.
I don’t pull with micron gauge on hi side if recip compressor with valves . No no for me only use four port with all connected and test then refill refrigerant without any air leaks getting in
When you found out how that it only drop 0.06 psi and you start releasing what were you releasing was it the nitrogen are something else? And how many minutes are second of nitrogen do you put in the system to pressure check?
Nice setup and install. Here in my area in Texas that would fail inspection for being too close to the gas meter and for disconnect behind the unit.
All that fancy equipment and no one ever explained to you about migrating the oil out of the compressor from pulling a vacuum from only one side of the system?
You use the micron gauge on the liquid side while your vacuum hose is on the liquid side. Where would you set up your micron gauge say, on a mini split system with only a hose hookup on the suction side?
Did you miss a test step? , Check for valve leakage before capping ?
Sometimes there just isn’t enough room to use the core remover tool. So I just hook my hoses up to both sides.
All that money and charge for 10 feet use to be 25 feet, dam I got to check what Rudd does😂
New install 1 hose and two core tools to isolate the guage, when replacing a compressor I use 2 hoses as the oil takes much longer to get down.
What does it mean if once you get vac down to 100 and let it sit for 10-15 minutes? Does that necessarily mean a leak?
You are incorrect about the micro gauge. They are not designed to have refrigerant on them like that. Get a shut off valve with a depressor hook up you’re micron gauge to that.
what if I don't remove the valve? Is it a problem other than just taking longer?
What do you do to keep refrigerant from going back into the micron gauge or is this not a problem?
Nice! ... and where can I get a hose like that, but, with 1/4" fittings on either end?
Still waiting 20 minutes only down to 1009 microns.
What kind of hoses do you use for Vacuum pump ? and where do you buy them from? thank you
The 'One Hose' set-up is the way to go for residential....if you're doing things the right way.
Fewest leak points, most accurate reading of vacuum on the system, less hoses and core tools.
On most systems, if I'm replacing a drier, evap coil, or a compressor I'll usually just pull through my 4-valve manifold....with the refrigerant tank already on the charging hose. Quickest way to get it back in service. Most every company around here pulls a 2 cig vacuum if they aren't purging -- even owning a manifold with a built-in micron gauge is next level around here.
How many microns is that. ? Smoking 100s or rolling your own
@@douglasprobst7725 I don't know WHAT some of the installers around here are smoking, honestly....
I have the same setup. I have had really good experiences with my fieldpiece stuff. I've had some other techs say they are junk but I'm sure it's the whole Ford vs Chevy argument, both good but you cannot tell people different from what they like because of their own experiences.
Anybody who hates on feildpiece stuff just can't afford it lol.
Toyota
Wait, what am I missing? How is it possible to release the charge and not have a core in the service valve?
I thought getting refrigerant on the vacuum sensor would damage it or at least make it dirty..
I would like to know where you got the blue hose at I looked all over Nashville cannot find it would love to know where to get them in what What size are both ends
Hi bro how are you? where can i find that blue vacuum hose? Thanks man
You don't like the Navac pump anymore?
You really should be doing triple evacs.
Could you put the vacuum gauge on a core removal tool, and just valve it off when you open the refrigerant?
Да, ты сможешь
Yup it’s what I do so refrigerant doesn’t splash back on my sensor
The removal core tool has no schrader core ? How can u do it to depress the core ? I use a yellow jacket ball valve to isolate micron gauge and break the vacuum with Freon
@@ericpalacios3568 I use a ball valve to isolate the micron gauge. How can u use a core removal tool ? They don’t have a schrader core inside
I was told not to let out through the manifold because it can mess up
Is that true?
that big hose is just excess space that you have to pump down besides the system
He went down to 8 microns directly on pump?
One hose setup is slow and bad, period.
Thank you for going above and beyond 250 😂
Condenser are less than 10' away gas regulator?
I pull at almost the same speed through a set of gauges honestly
Where do you get rid of your contaminated oil?
You didn't go step by step didn't see you put nitrogen in
So the refrigerant gets released into the atmosphere?
Zach, how do I get ahold of you? I live in middle tn need a new unit
If u use a probe you just have to grab one hose and one probe.
How long were you a tech with a company till you went out on your own?