I found a Navac charging/vacuum machine in the back of the supply house on warranty. I asked if I could have it and they gave it to me. Since then I have rebuilt three Navac NRC62D units from scavenging parts. I give them away. I have a G5 twin and JB platinum. Nice video, thumbs up.
I use the 5th setup. I've never had a problem. But we had a Rheem rep come about the A2l freon. And said that pulling a vacuum to fast can cause problems also. If you have moisture in the lines, the fast vac could freeze that moisture. I can see that, but if you're blowing out your lines and running nitro, I don't see a problem. But just something to keep in mind.
If the standing vacuum test (decay test) is performed then that proves no moisture is frozen. The only time that could even happen is on a system where both the inside of the home and outside was below freezing and you were vacuuming the lines. Otherwise there is heat for the tubing to absorb from the air outside the tubing while heat in the air from inside the tubing is being removed by the vacuum pump.
You can turn the shut off valve 1/2 way off until you are below 1000 microns, then open it up completely. This slows down the vacuum process, but you can speed it up when you need it.
@@acservicetechchannel I love it something I need my friend to watch 😂 but can you do a video in detail like this video about moisture… I just watch the TruBlu man yesterday a when he added water in the line 🤣 and explain.. but I want to watch you explain 😅
For me, I use a manifold connected to the liquid line with an extra ball valve at the end of the hose and the core removal w/ micron hooked directly up to my vacuum. I vacuum the liquid hose as well then shut off it’s ball valve, then the removal tool, then the micron gauge and break vacuum by charging through the manifold. That’s mainly because I don’t have two removal tools lol. That said, I only do that on units where I had to recover refrigerant.
Great tutorial. Learned so much. Nobody here sells fat vacuum hoses but they are easy to make from automotive supplies and also to the Length needed. Better spend my money on extra valve removing tools.
Thank you for the video. I’m a part time mini split installer (FGAS certified).When I’ve spoken to experienced HVAC engineers about removing cores during vacuum, they look at me like I’m speaking a foreign language. Never heard of this type of evacuation. I would like to ask why the core is replaced under positive pressure and not before breaking the vacuum with refrigerant? Thank you again for these brilliant videos!
If you try to put the core back into the service valve while it is still under vacuum, there would be a great likely hood of sucking air (albeit not a lot, but any is too much) into the system you just pulled a vacuum on.
Awesome summary! Absolutely love all your videos. I have a system where I replaced a piston with a txv. With the Piston, I was able to pull the system down to 500u vacuum with a one-hose setup in about 3 minutes. With the new txv, the one hose setup was taking forever, after 20 minutes I gave up and switched to a two hose system. With the two hose setup, it pulled to vacuum again in about 3 minutes. Is this an indication of a non-bleed txv? I have a second system with an old txv, about 13 years old, and that system I pulled to vacuum with one hose setup also in about 3 minutes. But I'm not sure that txv wasn't stuck open.
Those valve core removal tools definitely seem great and useful, for some reason basically nobody I work with uses them. My question is, once the vacuum is complete, you break the vacuum by releasing the refrigerant, now it is time to place the shraeder valve back in. Are you able to do that with the ball valve on the VCRT closed? I am wondering how you are able to place the SV back in. As that part of the process is not explained in this video. From what ive seen my understanding is that the ball valve needs to be open for the valve core insert part of the tool to be fully inserted
The part of the VCRT he pulled the core out with seals when you screw it back on to the end of the VCRT. Then you open the valve and push the core back in and thread it back in tight, the it's sealed and you can remove the entire VCRT.
@@douglasshackett8747 okay cool thanks for clearing that up! That makes sense. I could never wrap my head around it because like I said for some reason nobody at my company uses them except for one guy who I rarely work with. Seeing how useful these vcrt's are makes it seem like a no brainer to me.
Nobody uses em because they are not good to use navac core removers are not good..i had a pair never did heavy duty work and they just blew apart one day nitrogen pressure testing a system below 300psi
Could setup #5 use a ball valve in place of the 3rd VCRT? I'm not sure I understand the practicality of a 3rd VCRT. Couldn't you add a ball valve to the gauge adapter on any set-up to protect the sensor?
Greg, DO you know which Valve core removal tool , works on the Rheem's (RARL Series) or (RAMB Series) that have the internal shredders located inside the case, where the pipe is in the way, non seem to fit because of the confined space. I would greatly appreciate it.
This entire video.. just think of it like this the shorter the distance from copper lines the better..so if you could use 2 3/8 vaccum hosed and connect it straight to the pump is the best way
Using a manifold gauge should really never an option to do..its just like a carpenter telling you to use a hammer and you just wanna keep using a screw driver to nail something down..or like drinking thru a straw when you can chug it down
Made the mistake of using the back side of the core removal tool, isolated on the removal tool to add the charge and found refrigerant had bypassed the valve and went into my vacuum rig.. gotta check my tools next time but really screwed up the whole process
Man that always happens.i have seperate vaccum hoses versus charging hoses and after my vaccum i open the port and i had my vacuum hoses on ..and i open it on the liquid line ..i fastly blew nitrogen thru it and hooked that line to the vaccum pump to clean out the oil
Yes, but you are only using the analog gauge hoses for the vacuum. Lazy people don't disconnect the hoses from the analog gauge or don't know how because of never been taught. He's just showing different ways a vacuum can be done. It's especially helpful when a hose or a fitting is leaking and have to do it a different way.
Flow nitrogen when removing valve core directly. If the system has no refrigerant the best way to clean & remove the oil on micron gauge is by exposing it to liquid refrigerant. Just make sure not to start the system with the micron gauge. On inverter if the system is empty it's much faster if you connect the pump directly on the liquid line.
Craig's got some great information here. It confirms I'm not crazy when I see techs pulling vacuum in 10 different ways.
Great video always. I always try and follow the best practices!
Thanks so much, that's awesome!
I found a Navac charging/vacuum machine in the back of the supply house on warranty. I asked if I could have it and they gave it to me. Since then I have rebuilt three Navac NRC62D units from scavenging parts. I give them away. I have a G5 twin and JB platinum. Nice video, thumbs up.
Boss makes a dollar I make a dime, I’m taking my time. One hose set up with valve core tool is the way to go.
As Always very well explained...... Teacher Craig...👍👍🙌 And thank you Sir
Ready for class on a Saturday👍🏼
So you should release refrigerant then install the cores ?
Great vacuum tips Craig. thank you.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍.
Great explanation Mr Craig . Navac tools are incredible good for the he price point
Another great video! Thanks. Can’t believe people still vacuum thru a manifold.
I use the 5th setup. I've never had a problem. But we had a Rheem rep come about the A2l freon. And said that pulling a vacuum to fast can cause problems also. If you have moisture in the lines, the fast vac could freeze that moisture. I can see that, but if you're blowing out your lines and running nitro, I don't see a problem. But just something to keep in mind.
If the standing vacuum test (decay test) is performed then that proves no moisture is frozen. The only time that could even happen is on a system where both the inside of the home and outside was below freezing and you were vacuuming the lines. Otherwise there is heat for the tubing to absorb from the air outside the tubing while heat in the air from inside the tubing is being removed by the vacuum pump.
You can turn the shut off valve 1/2 way off until you are below 1000 microns, then open it up completely. This slows down the vacuum process, but you can speed it up when you need it.
@@acservicetechchannel I love it something I need my friend to watch 😂 but can you do a video in detail like this video about moisture… I just watch the TruBlu man yesterday a when he added water in the line 🤣 and explain.. but I want to watch you explain 😅
For me, I use a manifold connected to the liquid line with an extra ball valve at the end of the hose and the core removal w/ micron hooked directly up to my vacuum. I vacuum the liquid hose as well then shut off it’s ball valve, then the removal tool, then the micron gauge and break vacuum by charging through the manifold. That’s mainly because I don’t have two removal tools lol. That said, I only do that on units where I had to recover refrigerant.
Awesome video bro. Gonna invest in a new vacum set up next year hopefully. Thank you for your videos
As always another nice video to watch over and over again
Thanks for sharing your experience
Great tutorial. Learned so much. Nobody here sells fat vacuum hoses but they are easy to make from automotive supplies and also to the Length needed. Better spend my money on extra valve removing tools.
Thanks Craig always informative and your video set ups are spot on.
Thanks for watching!👍
Thank you for the video. I’m a part time mini split installer (FGAS certified).When I’ve spoken to experienced HVAC engineers about removing cores during vacuum, they look at me like I’m speaking a foreign language. Never heard of this type of evacuation.
I would like to ask why the core is replaced under positive pressure and not before breaking the vacuum with refrigerant? Thank you again for these brilliant videos!
If you try to put the core back into the service valve while it is still under vacuum, there would be a great likely hood of sucking air (albeit not a lot, but any is too much) into the system you just pulled a vacuum on.
@@chrisdeanndavison3626 Thank you for this! Makes sense now.
@@crowderglen You are welcome!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome summary! Absolutely love all your videos. I have a system where I replaced a piston with a txv. With the Piston, I was able to pull the system down to 500u vacuum with a one-hose setup in about 3 minutes. With the new txv, the one hose setup was taking forever, after 20 minutes I gave up and switched to a two hose system. With the two hose setup, it pulled to vacuum again in about 3 minutes. Is this an indication of a non-bleed txv? I have a second system with an old txv, about 13 years old, and that system I pulled to vacuum with one hose setup also in about 3 minutes. But I'm not sure that txv wasn't stuck open.
Good video ! 😎🛶🎣🐟🏝️
Great video
Thanks for watching!
In the fifth setup, the two hose, three VCR tool setup, does it matter which side you put the micron gauge? I put it on the liquid line.
Can you show how to use a liquid to vapor flow restrictor when adding refrigerant on the low side?
Those valve core removal tools definitely seem great and useful, for some reason basically nobody I work with uses them. My question is, once the vacuum is complete, you break the vacuum by releasing the refrigerant, now it is time to place the shraeder valve back in. Are you able to do that with the ball valve on the VCRT closed? I am wondering how you are able to place the SV back in. As that part of the process is not explained in this video. From what ive seen my understanding is that the ball valve needs to be open for the valve core insert part of the tool to be fully inserted
The part of the VCRT he pulled the core out with seals when you screw it back on to the end of the VCRT. Then you open the valve and push the core back in and thread it back in tight, the it's sealed and you can remove the entire VCRT.
@@douglasshackett8747 okay cool thanks for clearing that up! That makes sense. I could never wrap my head around it because like I said for some reason nobody at my company uses them except for one guy who I rarely work with. Seeing how useful these vcrt's are makes it seem like a no brainer to me.
Nobody uses em because they are not good to use navac core removers are not good..i had a pair never did heavy duty work and they just blew apart one day nitrogen pressure testing a system below 300psi
Buy them they are great! So quick vaccing a 3 pipe vrv system with over 400m of pipe in less then 5 hours
@@DJV94022I like the Appion tools and can't wait to get the new fieldpiece tool with 2 built in valves and the window so you can see your valve core
Could setup #5 use a ball valve in place of the 3rd VCRT? I'm not sure I understand the practicality of a 3rd VCRT.
Couldn't you add a ball valve to the gauge adapter on any set-up to protect the sensor?
Greg, DO you know which Valve core removal tool , works on the Rheem's (RARL Series) or (RAMB Series) that have the internal shredders located inside the case, where the pipe is in the way, non seem to fit because of the confined space. I would greatly appreciate it.
Please suggest me a best flairing tool
Is the spring in the Schrader valve Strong enough to hold the vacuum or will it let air in?
So many ways but the best is to be direct, meaning.. one hose setup with 1/2 hose and micron gauge on the opposite end that is the best way
Whats the best for when you trap refrigerant in the compresser when you replace evap coil.
This entire video.. just think of it like this the shorter the distance from copper lines the better..so if you could use 2 3/8 vaccum hosed and connect it straight to the pump is the best way
Using a manifold gauge should really never an option to do..its just like a carpenter telling you to use a hammer and you just wanna keep using a screw driver to nail something down..or like drinking thru a straw when you can chug it down
Navac 4 port gauges would be ok to use with A2L refrigerant?
Made the mistake of using the back side of the core removal tool, isolated on the removal tool to add the charge and found refrigerant had bypassed the valve and went into my vacuum rig.. gotta check my tools next time but really screwed up the whole process
Man that always happens.i have seperate vaccum hoses versus charging hoses and after my vaccum i open the port and i had my vacuum hoses on ..and i open it on the liquid line ..i fastly blew nitrogen thru it and hooked that line to the vaccum pump to clean out the oil
Isn't that manifold gauge set analog?
Yes, but you are only using the analog gauge hoses for the vacuum. Lazy people don't disconnect the hoses from the analog gauge or don't know how because of never been taught. He's just showing different ways a vacuum can be done. It's especially helpful when a hose or a fitting is leaking and have to do it a different way.
Flow nitrogen when removing valve core directly. If the system has no refrigerant the best way to clean & remove the oil on micron gauge is by exposing it to liquid refrigerant. Just make sure not to start the system with the micron gauge.
On inverter if the system is empty it's much faster if you connect the pump directly on the liquid line.
$5k worth of brand new navac equipment. Must be nice to be sponsored. 😅
Well deserved! These dudes have the best content on hvac.
Except their core removers ..the price too high for something that blows apart
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