DON'T TAKE IT TO THE DEALER!! -Toyota Airbag WARNING (B1660)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ค. 2021
- This 2008 Toyota Highlander has the AIRBAG warning on the dash.
Code B1660 is set, showing a problem with the passenger airbag ON/OFF indicator lights.
If you want to save some money, DON'T TAKE IT TO THE DEALER and fix it yourself!
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Enjoy!
Ivan - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
When a warning light is the cause, not effect, of a problem.
Same thing happens in some Jeep Wrangler TJs. A simple desolder and bulb replacement fixes it. Yes, bulb ... Not even advanced enough for LEDs.
So the LED light itself is supervised and sets a fault when it fails? I didn't know that LED lights were ever monitored like that! But, it makes sense to make sure safety related indicators are working.
@@markd9130 It's part of the circuit whose voltage is measured and when out of spec, throws the code.
I don't think many mechanics can get comfortable to the level of detail Ivan goes to fix an issue. To identify which diode needs replacement and solder a fix to the board shows Ivan's engineering training and experience.
Those SMD LEDs are super cheap, common, and easy. All you need is an "858D" hot air station (use the smallest nozzle tip) for ~$40 and some flux.
Fix instead of replace, another good one Ivan.
I knew there was going to be bonus footage. I knew you were going to come back and add some color to this repair. Another great video Ivan. Have a great week-end.
That's really impressive detective work Ivan. Nice repair too.
I guess you'll have to invest in a surface mount soldering station now.
You mean a heated air soldering station ? Not with these things, it's big enough and only takes some practice and flux. Heated air is of course easier, but you can remove all components from a boars fast when you not watch out
Thank you so much for putting your video together - I had an SRS message on the LCD in my 08 Highlander Hybrid, and when you showed that this panel under the radio had an airbag component, I remembered that I had recently had my radio out and sure enough there was a cable that I had forgotten to reconnect - Much appreciation for the inspiration :)
Great job Ivan! Love the bonus footage always!!
You have to love the cheap fix. I have repaired many computer indicators the same way. Another great one my friend.
Ivan’s intelligence and tenacity never cease to amaze me, well done great video
PHAD, cares about his customers economy.
I would charge $250 for this job unashamedly off course
When I was developing OEM overhead illumination LEDs for a big SUV the LEDs were blinding me on the lab bench. I used many layers of kapton tape to create sunglasses for the LEDs. It worked pretty good. But my co-worker engineers would come up to my bench and ask what do you have this wad of tape for and they would pick it up. Immediately they realized what it was for and put it back. Then they would stumble away with a spot on their retina for the next fifteen minutes.
Only blonde headed ones 👌
Oh thats win!!
Learn through your ears, eyes, skin or wallet - its your choice.
15 minutes is a pretty good deal for a lifelong lesson.
Stay gold.
I really appreciate this guy abilities..if i ever have a problem i can not solve he will for sure be on my list . He also stands by his work Very impressed.
Love that iron, currently misplaced mine dami't mostly use a 961hako and the quick861. Congrads on graduating the basics. Watching you struggle hurt. Need to get some flux and wick.
Wow. Incredible, yet simple repair.
Thanks for the video Ivan. Awesome as always.
Sometimes a 10-100ohm resistor can make them last a much longer time especially on over driven LEDs. If you upsize your home led bulbs and dim them back slightly, they run cool and will last much longer.
Applies to screen backlights in tvs. Turm them down and they will outlast the set.
Well done, it must have taken a lot of effort to figure out, satisfying job now completed
I admire your dedication Ivan, but I'm sad because I well know that there is no shop that will actually take that time to troubleshoot things the way you do. That's unfortunate for all of us.
I would that’s why I lost money working on other peoples cars.I care to much. Treat everyone like I would like to be treated.
I’ve worked at several shops, all would take the time to properly diagnose any issue, based on their hourly rate. The biggest issue seems to be that some customers think it should be done for free, or no charged if they approve the repair.
I’d guess Ivan spent about 3-4 hours sorting out this systems issues, researching, checking wiring, schematics and so on. Maybe more.
At usual shop rates, if you can repair the fault in an hour rather than just replacing the module for $150, the customer would likely come out ahead. Most shops just wouldn't have LEDs lying around or the electronics knowledge to do component level repairs.
@@RobertHancock1 no, but the mechanic can.
Thus he's making TH-cam videos for diyers.
You are awesome 👌 good help for the customer.
This is great information. Thanks for the video
Wow 50c repair! Neat!! I didn't even get the notification, until i pulled TH-cam and saw your video. I wondered why didn't i see it lol. Awesome video! 👌
But $150 in labor
@@Dirtyharry70585 Most of the labor was getting the panel out of the console, and properly diagnosing the issue. Soldering was the fast part :)
@@Dirtyharry70585 150 Labor and 150 Panel is 300. Or make it extreme and say the shop charges per hour they started, so 30 minutes to diagnose the error 150 Dollars, order the Panel 150, and then go back and put it in in 10 minutes, another 150. 450 Dollars if they want to rip you off, and that's pretty often.
The soldering takes 5 minutes, maybe 10 and he can put it back the same hour and earns 150 Dollars directly into his pocket without having a bad feeling about it.
Sweet always learn something new senor ivan.
You can also paint the led with transparent amber hobby paint. Testors and Tamiya are two that I've used and work well to give anywhere from a soft white to amber glow depending on how thick it's applied.
Hey you're a star Ivan (slow down a little with the camera wobble it makes me like..sea-sick 😂🤪) you are truly a craftsman👍
Russ in England
So we're just going ignore the fact that that he has the time to get into component level repairs?
Well done sir. I like the cut of your jib. You just might have a future in this industry.
Indeed. I bet his patience and dedication will help him diagnose the oncoming horde of EVs
Another fix instead of replace, like it!!!
BTW smd (surface mount aka PCB mount) LEDs are available cheaply on Amazon and ebay, although using a through-hole one does also seem to work.
Thank you sir. Stuck on a diag for a lexus with the same trouble code. Toyota Information System says nothing about this potential problem. Have a new point to start from.
Good one! Dealer would say it needs a new air bag module lol
"Real quick one today". Like your confidence Ivan! ;-)
Funny how this was a semi common issue with incandescent bulbs, and when led's came about i figured burned out indicators would be a thing of the past.... NOPE!
I nearly failed inspection once because my brake lights of my Golf mk4, it was a third party light, had a broken solder joint. I saw it before the inspector got around and bumped the light so it light up lol
In my garage later, I soldered all LEDs and connections with some fresh solder and the problem was fixed permanently. Bug if would've been bollocks when I had go go back because of that.
@@Spelter some of those conversion bulbs are terrible... Especially the cheapies from amazon and ebay. Not uncommon to get behind someone who loaded their car up with them and the brakes and running lights are 1/2 burned out... Haha
@@volvo09 No bulbs, it was a complete light and a board with SMD Leds. The replacement bulbs are crap
Nice work Ivan,
They do burnout, even though they are rated for 50k-100k hours great fix Ivan
Could be The resistor to that LED is failing it’s hard to describe what it is but it could be somewhere around 3000 ohms to knock it down from 12 V to under five
What labor charge to do the LED job ? LOL Ivan you are a inspiration !!
Amazing ! Who has LEDs in their garage and then transparent yellow tape ! Is there anything that you cant fix ? Great job !
great fix Ivan
Nice quick fix.
Keep an old instrument cluster around. Several surface mount white, yellow and red leds on those and they always come in handy.
Dude I got a Toyota Matrix in my stall at work & I have the same code I’m definitely replacing that clock/indicator 👏
Most times with those, you don't have to replace the module. You just have to re-flow the solder joints on the board. They crack and causethe indicator not to work. Lots of how-to on youtube for that problem. Good luck!
BigClive has a thing or two to say about grilled LEDs.
I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla LE and what it’s flashing is the airbag light which is just under the radio just like you have in your video. It’s flashing a car 🚗 and lock 🔒 sign. When I turn on the engine the passenger airbag is on when I sit on the passenger seat. I turn the engine off the light keeps flashing. I get off the passenger seat 💺 and still flashing. I moved the passenger seat back and forward looked under the seat no cables are lose. No obstructions no kink on cables.
This works but the right way really is to replace the led with the right smd led. They really are the same price or cheaper then noemal led if you can work with them and have a heat gun
Great work as always Ivan...Love the fixes rather the replace for sure. Curious why you did a white rather than the amber led.? Your link even had them too. Lol But I guess the fix is what really matters 😎👍
I had white in stock...
That was amazing !
Orange LEDs are available from all the usual sources (along with the usual red, green,yellow, white and blue too).
How are you liking that Thinktool? I am on the fence between that and an Autel 906BT.
let talk, so i have a 2008, i have traction , abs and air bag lights, on, i was told that my yaw sensor is possibly not making a connection, what do u think. I plan on buying a diagnostic scanner to see for myself bc got to thinking the guy didn't present me with any codes even though they said they scanned it, do u have a video on how to take everything off to get into the center console area with out messing up anything? Honestly the car is driving great, 200k miles almost, just had oil changed etc, sunk 1900 in it for brakes etc. i am trying to get it back into shape after getting back from my mother who passed recently.
as usual ,great diag and repair, silly question I have is can u snip the legs shorter on the diode instead of bending ?
Yup that's what I did to make it fit in the end :)
Well done, Ivan! Another example of computer tech gone wrong. I wonder why Toyota decided to set that trap, leading the customer into a big bill most of the time. And I wonder if the air bag would have worked properly in a collision....
Great question! Would be a really poor design if a burned out LED disabled the entire SRS system...
I agree on the comments. more recently, Toyota is a allowing owners to bring their vehicles in& they will fix t he problem for free. It's on recall. @@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Excellent diagnosis. thanks (sub'd)
Thank you
Now that is what I call saving money, but I think I would have put a resistor in line with it so it is not driven so hard and it will last longer and not be so bright.
Yep, I'll take .50 over $150.00 any day of the week!
Hey, just got back from my paramotor training! Got 21 awesome flights in on the trike before it was time to head back. I didn't want to leave! FL is awesome. I was training just south of Aviator, but I went up there one Sunday to visit my buddy Chris. One heck of a place they've got there! BIG operation! Was cool watching the skydivers every 15 minutes or so, too ... and getting a whiff from the pot farm occasionally, HAHAHA! :D
AWESOME! Sounds like a great trip :)
Perhaps you can used yellow LED...
Interesting - I wonder what happened, LEDs don't just burn out unless overdriven....
Sometimes the junction just gives out.
LED bulbs burn out all the time for no reason. Otherwise they would come with a lifetime warranty.
@@Cowboy_Ash Often that's the driver circuitry that fails, not the actual LEDs. Also many bulbs do basically overdrive the LEDs to get more light out of fewer LEDs (and some would say also for planned obsolescence..)
The failed LED appears to be a standard PLCC-4 surface mount LED, also available from Amazon for about $10,- for 50 or so.
Take it off by alternately heating the contacts on either side with a soldering iron, while gently tugging on it with tweezers. Clean the PCB contacts with solder wick once the LED comes off the board.
Solder in a replacement by dabbing some solder paste (also available from Amazon) onto the cleaned contacts, smushing the replacement LED into said paste (mind polarity, see datasheet) with the aforementioned tweezers and heating the contacts one by one with the aforementioned soldering iron.
One of those instances which actually requires solder paste when performing a manual, component level repair(*).
(*): I guess you could superglue the new component to the board and use regular solder to make the connections, but that would hamper a future repair (and, yes, I have come across that).
Excellent info, thank you!
how much for a amber LED?
good fix though
I have B 1692 not sure if it's the same or similar
Wish we hsd honest mechanics in California or if ee do. Havent had one
What was the total time on this repair, research, checking schematics, accessing the component, repairs and so on? I’d guess easily 3-4 hours?
I actually diagnosed it on a previous visit. Diag and repair about 1.5 hour total :)
You can use a yellow LD.
This is why Right to Repair is important
Add a 470 to 1k ohm resistor and use a yellow LED. Or replace the SMD LED with a proper SMD LED, but add a resistor for sure. Thing is set to use too much current and so it's too bright and kills itself... Just because an LED is rated to handle such current doesn't mean it should operate at max current all the time. Cut the current in half and enjoy an LED that will outlast your car and you and still be pretty damn bright.
Use some solder flux. It makes the solder flow very nicely, Excess comes of with isopropyl alcohol.
See the smoke when he's soldering? That's because he's using flux cored solder.
@@ianmorris8534 I saw the smoke and rosin core solder seldom has enough flux in it to do a good job. I'll started in electronics in 1965 and was trained to add more flux to every solder joint I made. Flux is cheap and it is easier to use it than to re-solder.
Very Good Workaround Ivan, you need to train an apprentice so the art of cheap efficient repairs continue way after you retire one day. kinda passing it forward :)
He is doing that here on youtube 😁
@@Spelter it's great this way but in his area or community has big impacts and would benefit one kid for all his life as a money+ also you tube, that's all i meant with my comment.
Ivan, another source for leds is free harbor freight flashlights, loaded with leds.
Those probably are not 12V rated!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics LED's are rated by forward current. Any voltage can be used if the current limit resistor is the right value. The LED you installed looked really bright. It may have too much current and will burn out soon.
@@JD-iu3vi For what it's worth, the LEDs at Amazon that Ivan linked have a built-in series resistor, sized for 9-12V, and the spec claims nominal current of 15mA. So it doesn't seem in much danger of burning out due to overcurrent.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics LED _components_ (at least "indicator" LEDs as opposed to "illumination" LEDs) in general are not rated for a specific voltage supply, but rather by nominal current. At that current, there's some resulting typical Vf forward voltage, and that voltage varies from about 1.5V for red to around 3V for blue, and varies a little across the range of currents from "dim" to "bright". It's up to the surrounding circuit to set the current to that value, typically using a series resistor connected to some voltage higher than Vf. So any LED that can handle the same current as the original LED would work as a substitute, on the basis that the circuit already contains a series resistor that will suitably set the current. (And because that resistor ends up across 9 to 10V, variations in the LED Vf don't affect the current much.) But you went one step more conservative by choosing an LED with it's own built-in resistor, which is now in series with the existing resistor, and hence reduces the current to some lower value. Nonetheless the replacement LED was plenty bright.
@@Graham_Wideman Alrighty then. What happens with the charging of the battery has the voltage levels around 13.2V? But who cares? It works.
love it
How.much did you charge the customer
great video. I've seen other vehicles same thing but it was cracked solder joints. If you really wanted to you can buy surface mount led from superbrightled.com and a hot air station on amazon for cheap. I had some leds burn out in my aftermarket head lights in my winter beater. so i got a bunch of leds i think i paid more for shipping that the leds and did a little surface mount soldering it was really cool to see them snap into place when the solder melts
Awesome
I told you you should have spent the extra $$ for the orange LED...😎👍lol
Thats a rather large LED, you could use a micro LED and shorter legs.
If the LED current is limited by a resistor then it will depend on the forward voltage of the LED. The forward voltage is dependent on the color. So you can get into trouble by changing the color. However the Vf for the white LED is likely higher than the amber one it replaced. So you are probably fine.
Also you can buy replacements
www.digikey.com/short/dbpnbbr2
While your point that Vf varies with color, It's difficult for that to give you much trouble when the total supply voltage is 11.5V or so. The range of LED forward voltage is say 1.2V to 3V, or a variation of 1.8V, which makes less than 20% difference in voltage across the series resistor, and thus 20% difference in current. But in any case, Ivan replaced the existing LED with one that has a series resistor built in, sized for 9 to 12V. That series resistor adds to any existing series resistor, so the result is less current than either the circuit or the replacement LED were originally designed for.
u are amazing
NOW you show that there are 12v LEDs. Now I can fix the light without having to buy another complete switch.
Flight 401 was brought down by a burnt out light bulb.
My guess is that without a limiting resistor you’re getting way more than 20 ma through that LED. Most LEDS will take almost an amp but they won’t last long at that.
But there presumably is a limiting resistor, otherwise the original LED would never have worked.
These 12V LEDs have a limiting resistor built in. 10mA current at full brightness, I checked :)
Ivan's russian repair no parts required!
i like the cheap fix :-D, i would say it's the Russian way but I've done similar things and i'm not Russian... i think lol.
They already have the seat sensor for that. It doesn't really need to display it as most people will ignore it anyway.
@@SkylineFTW97 Yep that makes sense to me. Keep things simple.
They used to work this way. Too many people put baby seats in the front, despite huge warning labels to the contrary, and killed their kids when the airbag smashed into them. Hence the occupant classification system being required..
That light almost always never gets used so how could the LED burn out?
Exactly, maybe they used cheap LEDs
Because life is like that
Heat and cold cycles, the LED expands and shrinks, solder cracks and then the resistance is too high and it burns out. Pretty normal in cars, they have to withstand harsh conditions over years of abuse. Older cars have different problems like rust, bulbs go bad, cables corrode away. Cars are still tools, complex tools, that need much maintenance but still break at parts that are not easy reachable.
And engineers are humans too, they make mistskes and the mechanic later hates them lol
Get some orange craft paint....
No parts required 😃 Minus a $0,50 LED, let's say that's OK
Ivan, do you have email? I have a tech question for you about a Toyota problem? Lmk.
Какая смешная неисправность...:)
I'm terrible at soldering
Ivan, The Professional Technician that no mere bulb would dare to challenge him.....The Dealership would of nailed the poor guy $500 or more including labor.
Not much drama in this one...Where's that astra from HELL!?!
Just use permanent magic marker & paint bulb.simple
👍
What scan tool is that
See description :)
Looks a bit of hackery to me here. And you shouldn’t mess around with safety systems. Cold get you in a lot of trouble if there ever something will happen. At least put a smd led back in. These are also cheap and it doesn’t look like a cheapo botched repair.
Wow
Amazing how such a cheap ass part makes its way into a vehicle, especially the safety items. Reminds me of the repair guy who comes is called in after three previous guys couldn't fix the problem so this 4th guy comes in and taps the part just right and fixes the problem. The bill didn't represent the time it took, just a few minutes, so they asked "how come so expensive"? The guy said, well its the service call fee minimum plus $200 for knowing where to tap.
Ha, yeah, that's most of the time case.
I worked in a Bank and they paid like shit so I quit and the system I programmed had nobody to maintain it. They hired external guys for way more than I had cost and they fucked up the system so they have to reboot the servers once a week.
I told them I could fix the mistakes for 250 per hour if they want. Nope, they rather live with an unstable system before they pay me to fix it.
I know the mistakes Java "Devs" or wannabe developers do and that's why I quote that much. Years of experience, like you said.
@@Spelter Yes...no point in paying yourself low rates that put you in the same tank as newbies that do not have the experience and knowledge. But, that seems typical with big corp, keep banking their heads on the same brick wall for a higher cost.
LEDs are not diodes.
$.25 repair plus labor. WTG
Don't pull a scanner danner...
I could do that if I had all those fancy tools. Must of cost Ivan at least 20 bucks, who's got that kind of money?😉