Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Just small remark if you have 2x8 hip rafter,I don't think that half of 45 degree angle is not inch and sixteenth.Thanks!
Good Tutorial ! This is splitting hairs perhaps, but "half the thickness of the hip at 45 degrees" also does not work if you have a multiple -pitch roof. (9/12 in one direction, 12/12 in the other for example), because the hip is no longer 45 degrees to the plates. The difference isn't much on a 2x hip or valley - most framers I know don't even bother to recalc it. However - when you get into timber rafters and etc - now that difference goes from being 1/16" to being 5/16" or something - it's enough to make for a sloppy fit or an off-center cob-job.
Tioga Fretworks when you work with big expensive timbers you calculate every piece individually. Unless you've got bags full of money just laying around the jobsite.
Good stuff sir, if you divide the spacing between rafters by cos degree of the roof you will find the same difference in length. eg. 16"/cos36.87 = 20"
HARD AT THIS MOMENT, Im building my garage, hip roof and dont know those cuts, I wish a had a class in High skool to learn this, Now it's hard to understand what Im doing...Thnks for this video...I will make it, not professional, but for my own home its ok...
very informative video , how would you convert all dims to metric to use a metric roofing Square ? there is almost no info available on metric roofing Squares
Wayne Fraser the metric square is called the Frederickson square I believe. It has a rafter table just like the imperial square. I'm pretty sure the unit of run is 400mm.
very informative, thank you. I am building a room with hip roof using steel structure. Does the same rule apply as using timber? Also, the strength of steel is much higher than wood, do I need to consider different size for HIP rafters, and Ridge? I can not find anywhere a guide for the spacing of the common rafters Is there a rule to follow? thank you.
How critical is a Hip Jack to the structure of a roof? I have a few where the exposed ends are compromised by termite damage. 2 of them are compromised to 3" from the stucco, a couple other ones from 1/3 to 2/3 of the extremities to the stucco. Estimators have different ways of fixing the damage from bondoing, sistering or opening the roof so a new hip jack can be attached to the hip rafter by sliding a new piece from the outside in since there is very little clearance from the attic to do this from the inside. Those who are proposing bondo patches and sistering swear it will not jeoperdize the structure of the roof. Some seem to think they are dealing with a rafter tail rather than a hip jack. My search on the internet tells me that they are different however I have not yet found a site or a video that shows how to fix or replace a hip jack. What would be your best advice to fix the problem I have and conserve the structural integrity of the roof?
tahitinui2010 You can sister them up. Bondo patches won't offer any strength. Will you be able to make a connection at the hip? The longer the jack the more it does to support the sheathing and roofing. I hope that helps. Wow!!!! likely not cause this is a year old! Sorry!
I guess no one uses their framing square anymore to find side cut angles. If you mark the side cut angle, and make your side line mark, then shorten from that line (not the squared line) and mark the 2nd (actual) cut line. Then all you need do, after layout, is set your saw bevel and cut. I suppose your method is another way to achieve the same result, and that's fine, but I wonder why the square method is not being taught anymore. Those side angles are stamped on the framing square for a reason.
@@AliBinSun On the 5th line of your square, it says "side cut of jacks." Follow that 5th line over to the inch number of your slope (9 for a 9/12). Under the 9, in the 5th line, it says 9 5/8. Put gauges on the tongue of your square on 9 5/8, and the blade of your square on the 12. After squaring a line across the top of your board, and marking the center, place the blade of your square on top of board using the 9 5/8" and 12" where it intersects the center mark of board. Mark this angle, on the 12" side, and then mark your plumb line down the side of board from the end of this line. shorten it, and make new plumb line, then at top just mark the angle across the top again. Set your saw bevel to 45 degrees and cut. For hip or valley, you mark these lines in both directions, but those angles will be different than for jacks. It's all stamped into your square. This is given this way because the compound angles will be a little different, depending on your slope. Doing it as in the video above is okay, but it's using a 45 degree for every side cut angle, when they're not all 45. This way will give you a little better fit.
Note: You can mark this side cut angle on a board (with framing square), then take a bevel square and set it on that angle and lock it. Now you can use this instead of having to use the big framing square. You really don't have to do this but one time. You can use common length difference for the rest, going from long point, down to your plumb line. You'll have to measure from long point of the one you laid out and cut. Then measure that distance down the next one, and subtract the common length difference, if you're going down hill.
I use the framing square side cut angle table, the reason many don't is not knowing how to read it off the square, AND it's always greater than 45° that a skillsaw can cut, even more so the steeper the pitch, so they get lazy and lop it off at 45 , if you cut it by hand or use a mitre saw its perfect every time. Note on this video there was no closeup of the bevel against the hip, the pitch looked pretty steep, so I'm guessing it wasn't quite as sweet a joint as he'd have you believe 😂
@@jeremyfoster6942 Yes. I said above to cut the angle at 45 degrees, but using a miter saw is more accurate if you need an angle greater than 45. 45-degree angles will work, but you get a better fit with the side-cut method.
people usually use longer than necessary rafters, and cut them after all the rafters are installed, to the correct length. ie, avoid doing calculation.
@@YoshevElazarMikael 25.4 then they start with 8th of inch and when they get really down to detail the say 1000s of an inch which is metric. 3 mm or 4 mm so much easier to adjust up a rule when explaining something. 1/8 about 3 mil then you go to 11/64s for 4mm just really hard work. I like being accurate. Love the videos but i can't get my head round this stuff saying about an 1/8 th of an inch so 3 mm or 3.5 mm
MrJCDean a unit of run is 12" a unit of rise is how many inches up the roof will climb every foot it moves in. A unit of line length is the hyp. of a unit of run/rise.
You make that way to complicated. The easiest way to come up with the length of the first jack rafter is, assemble the roof with all the commons in place and the hips in place. Straighten the hips by bracing them to the ceiling joists. At the top of the last common rafter that is a 16” on center rafter, hook your tape measure on it and mark the hip where your longest jack will be placed. Put a framing square against the common at the side of the ridge and mark that common. Just measure from the end of that rafter and that is the measurement that would be subtracted from a common and there’s the longest jack.
oh ya! that seems way easier! hahahahahaha!! Calculate and cut it all safe on the ground and pass up the parts. Much faster. Much Safer. Thank you for a good laugh!! I enjoy when everyone has a great sense of humor! BTW : too complicated. Not, "to complicated". Grammar counts!
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Easiest video I've found to explain this for me, but for Gods sake sack Travis from camera duty :)
Why not use the jack side cut angle table on the framing square?
Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Just small remark if you have 2x8 hip rafter,I don't think that half of 45 degree angle is not inch and sixteenth.Thanks!
Good Tutorial ! This is splitting hairs perhaps, but "half the thickness of the hip at 45 degrees" also does not work if you have a multiple -pitch roof. (9/12 in one direction, 12/12 in the other for example), because the hip is no longer 45 degrees to the plates. The difference isn't much on a 2x hip or valley - most framers I know don't even bother to recalc it. However - when you get into timber rafters and etc - now that difference goes from being 1/16" to being 5/16" or something - it's enough to make for a sloppy fit or an off-center cob-job.
Tioga Fretworks when you work with big expensive timbers you calculate every piece individually. Unless you've got bags full of money just laying around the jobsite.
i never thought that i would see my teacher brad on youtube. hope you can put more videos
WOW
Good stuff sir, if you divide the spacing between rafters by cos degree of the roof you will find the same difference in length. eg. 16"/cos36.87 = 20"
Geez,, thank you 😂
Great video, do you have any info on best methods of how to properly brace a hip roof either to a interior wall or on the ceiling joist?
WAYNE DESHOTEL blocking between the ceiling joist.
HARD AT THIS MOMENT, Im building my garage, hip roof and dont know those cuts,
I wish a had a class in High skool to learn this, Now it's hard to understand what Im doing...Thnks for this video...I will make it, not professional, but for my own home its ok...
You can do it!
45 degrees on all hip jack rafters?
When you are on site laying out rafters do you use any sort of stop on your square or make a jig for repeating marks? Thank you for the great video.
Unit of line length!!???
Greg MacKinnon I'm sorry. I don't get your point
how do you figure out the half of the hip stock angle? I know you said 1 1/16 inch. how do you figure that?
Draw a line at 45 degrees across the top of a 1.5" piece of lumber. You will see that it is 2 1/8" long. So half of that is 1 1/16".
@@buildingreno Thanks
Could u do valley rafters please?
Valleys are the same as hips. But, no hip drop required. Also shorten the tail like a hip but make only a single cheek cut at the bottom.
@@buildingreno I would love for u to make a video
Tell me how to shorten the hip rafter if it's lvl. Like it's not always an inch and a sixteenth
Whatever half of the 45 degree thickness is. Draw a 45 on the top of the LVL...measure it.... half of that is the shortening. Easy as pie.
very informative video , how would you convert all dims to metric to use a metric roofing Square ? there is almost no info available on metric roofing Squares
Wayne Fraser the metric square is called the Frederickson square I believe. It has a rafter table just like the imperial square. I'm pretty sure the unit of run is 400mm.
very informative, thank you. I am building a room with hip roof using steel structure. Does the same rule apply as using timber?
Also, the strength of steel is much higher than wood, do I need to consider different size for HIP rafters, and Ridge?
I can not find anywhere a guide for the spacing of the common rafters Is there a rule to follow?
thank you.
A Saeefan geometry doesn't care what material you use.
How critical is a Hip Jack to the structure of a roof?
I have a few where the exposed ends are compromised by termite damage.
2 of them are compromised to 3" from the stucco, a couple other ones from 1/3 to 2/3 of the extremities to the stucco.
Estimators have different ways of fixing the damage from bondoing, sistering or opening the roof so a new hip jack can be attached to the hip rafter by sliding a new piece from the outside in since there is very little clearance from the attic to do this from the inside.
Those who are proposing bondo patches and sistering swear it will not jeoperdize the structure of the roof.
Some seem to think they are dealing with a rafter tail rather than a hip jack.
My search on the internet tells me that they are different however I have not yet found a site or a video that shows how to fix or replace a hip jack.
What would be your best advice to fix the problem I have and conserve the structural integrity of the roof?
tahitinui2010 You can sister them up. Bondo patches won't offer any strength. Will you be able to make a connection at the hip? The longer the jack the more it does to support the sheathing and roofing. I hope that helps. Wow!!!! likely not cause this is a year old! Sorry!
If the rafters are still full bearing and the damage doesn't go into the seat cut you can just repair it any way you can get nails to hold.
Could u do a valley rafter layout
Same as a hip. Just one cheek cut at the bottom...no hip drop required.
I guess no one uses their framing square anymore to find side cut angles. If you mark the side cut angle, and make your side line mark, then shorten from that line (not the squared line) and mark the 2nd (actual) cut line. Then all you need do, after layout, is set your saw bevel and cut. I suppose your method is another way to achieve the same result, and that's fine, but I wonder why the square method is not being taught anymore. Those side angles are stamped on the framing square for a reason.
I never ever heard any one explain the side cuts on the framing square. Any resources you could lead me to explain further information please?
@@AliBinSun On the 5th line of your square, it says "side cut of jacks." Follow that 5th line over to the inch number of your slope (9 for a 9/12). Under the 9, in the 5th line, it says 9 5/8. Put gauges on the tongue of your square on 9 5/8, and the blade of your square on the 12. After squaring a line across the top of your board, and marking the center, place the blade of your square on top of board using the 9 5/8" and 12" where it intersects the center mark of board. Mark this angle, on the 12" side, and then mark your plumb line down the side of board from the end of this line. shorten it, and make new plumb line, then at top just mark the angle across the top again. Set your saw bevel to 45 degrees and cut. For hip or valley, you mark these lines in both directions, but those angles will be different than for jacks. It's all stamped into your square.
This is given this way because the compound angles will be a little different, depending on your slope. Doing it as in the video above is okay, but it's using a 45 degree for every side cut angle, when they're not all 45. This way will give you a little better fit.
Note: You can mark this side cut angle on a board (with framing square), then take a bevel square and set it on that angle and lock it. Now you can use this instead of having to use the big framing square. You really don't have to do this but one time. You can use common length difference for the rest, going from long point, down to your plumb line. You'll have to measure from long point of the one you laid out and cut. Then measure that distance down the next one, and subtract the common length difference, if you're going down hill.
I use the framing square side cut angle table, the reason many don't is not knowing how to read it off the square, AND it's always greater than 45° that a skillsaw can cut, even more so the steeper the pitch, so they get lazy and lop it off at 45 , if you cut it by hand or use a mitre saw its perfect every time. Note on this video there was no closeup of the bevel against the hip, the pitch looked pretty steep, so I'm guessing it wasn't quite as sweet a joint as he'd have you believe 😂
@@jeremyfoster6942 Yes. I said above to cut the angle at 45 degrees, but using a miter saw is more accurate if you need an angle greater than 45. 45-degree angles will work, but you get a better fit with the side-cut method.
I m building a 14x16 gazebo with a hip roof I want to leave a 2t overhang do you know what's my rafters length should be ? Please
Oh a gazebo! Nice! Use whatever rise you wish but use 13" for the run of the hips.
people usually use longer than necessary rafters, and cut them after all the rafters are installed, to the correct length.
ie, avoid doing calculation.
waoh wonderful
GREAT VIDEO BUT MY PROBLEM DEALING WITH FOOT/INCH MEASUREMENT OMG
thank for for share your information with us .question how can figure out the overhang with framing squere?
Arnulfo i can teach you if you want te enseño si quietes
Man I can't get this inches stuff metric so much easier
Yep.
1 inch = 25 mm
@@YoshevElazarMikael 25.4 then they start with 8th of inch and when they get really down to detail the say 1000s of an inch which is metric. 3 mm or 4 mm so much easier to adjust up a rule when explaining something. 1/8 about 3 mil then you go to 11/64s for 4mm just really hard work. I like being accurate. Love the videos but i can't get my head round this stuff saying about an 1/8 th of an inch so 3 mm or 3.5 mm
any videos on how to calculate hip tails
you just step it off the distance of the overhang.
Carlos J. Gonzalez if you absolutely have to calculate tails, remember it's a triangle, just like the rafters.
If the overhang is 12 in just do 12 inch run and the pitch and press hip and that's it
Lvls are an 1and 3/4 " where I'm from
is there any chance you can do a full metric tutorial
more James Taylor !
good
Where's this 15" coming from?
Jack pitched length which equates to a foot overhang
9²+12²=15²
What is 4 units? What is a unit?
MrJCDean a unit of run is 12" a unit of rise is how many inches up the roof will climb every foot it moves in. A unit of line length is the hyp. of a unit of run/rise.
Got it, Thank You
MrJCDean like I said previously ... Too many words.
You make that way to complicated. The easiest way to come up with the length of the first jack rafter is, assemble the roof with all the commons in place and the hips in place. Straighten the hips by bracing them to the ceiling joists. At the top of the last common rafter that is a 16” on center rafter, hook your tape measure on it and mark the hip where your longest jack will be placed. Put a framing square against the common at the side of the ridge and mark that common. Just measure from the end of that rafter and that is the measurement that would be subtracted from a common and there’s the longest jack.
oh ya! that seems way easier! hahahahahaha!! Calculate and cut it all safe on the ground and pass up the parts. Much faster. Much Safer. Thank you for a good laugh!! I enjoy when everyone has a great sense of humor!
BTW : too complicated. Not, "to complicated". Grammar counts!
Should of used a handsaw or jigsaw to finish off the birdsmouth.
Just a demo. I agree we don't over cut unless we are using over sized rafters.
C D hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. The first time you do that on a pro jobsite you're history.
Jigsaw?
Here because of a Casey Neistat comment
Good demo
Why don't you just use metric it's so less complicated to work out lengths/angles using TAN COS SIN
Yep. Trig will work as well. Using "slope" for the entire roof is in the end faster and know through North America as the standard for roofs
Traduction spanish, please fron Argentina
puedo ayudarte Omar , preguntas?
Ok
but that takes too long...when u r on the field
Cai
Derasa
You weakened that jack rafter by over cutting your birds mouth.
Wolfbyte World no he didn't.
good video
A lot easier to use a speed square, use the hip and valley marks.
Both squares are great tools!
Sup
?? Sup what?
always leave the tails long!!!!
Cut the tails on the ground. it's faster and safer.
If you can build plumb and square walls you don't have to leave anything long. What a marroooon. (Quoting Bugs Bunny)
wat
Oi
mk
Sup