Thanks so much for sharing your slurry recipe. I've been playing with sodium silicate and sand, but its not going well. A liquid like thins can get riiiiiight into all the details. "Diatomaceous earth" I have never heard or seen of that. So cool! Thanks!
How well does your investment recipe do with cracking while drying and burnout? I'm about to do my own castings with polycast I'm hoping to save money with your recipe.
Hello, amazing work! I've been struggling for a while with some issues with this filament. I would really appreciate some tips. Im using the same 3D-Printer and Cura. Thank you!
@@ChristophLehner I'm printing a very small object with lots of details (a ring), using the smallest nozzle possible 0.2mm. I can't get the quality required, I guess because of the stringing. I've tried different configurations with Cura but none have proved succesful
Very good job!!! I have probably a naive question....what was the % infill and the wall thickness that you use during the 3d printing..I guess very thin walls...might do better during the burnout procedure. You have a new subscriber.
@@ChristophLehner Sorry to bother you with so many questions...have you ever try to make a very thin wall from your 3d print (one layer)...and add the melted aluminum directly...(avoiding the plaster and burnout procedure) ???
Ive bought all the ingredients to make your investment and im getting ready to do my own castings with cast aluminum. I was hoping you could let me know what kind of burnout schedule you follow for your castings. Im using polycast filament. My castings will be a bit larger then the ones you did, but itd still be great to know how to heat the investment and have the best chances for success on my first attempt at casting.
Wonder how much better the surface finish on the polycast would be using the polysher. It was very good from the looks of it without. According to their website the polysher works with the polycast as well as the polysmooth. I’d like to try the polydissolve for supports with the polycast
I have been placing my Polycast parts in a strong ziplock bag with 91% ISA and shacking a little for 6 minutes. Pull part out, let dry and then do again, until I am happy with all the lines are gone. It has worked very well.
You use a unique recipe for the mold . any advantages other than the ability the break it apart easier? maybe it conduct heat better than a mixture of only plaster and sand ?
The DE is from what i know a little bit like a reinforcement, like microscopic fibers but i need to to further testing, if it really makes much a difference
@@ChristophLehner Thanks . i am about to build my first furnace to metal cast some of my sculptures. which are moderate in size , and i figured out i need a pretty large crucible. , of at least 1 litter. if i may ask your advice , do you think it is possible to cast in 2-3 batches to fill the mold?
Sadly the second pour was contaminated by oxide skins etc falling from the crucible into the mould at the start of the pour, rendering any true comparison moot.. Martin
Thanks for the comment, thats the First time i really noticed the premature aluminium droplet in the second mold. This explains the hole in the tip of the benchy
@@ChristophLehner transparent If bring the mold up to 1450 for five hours. What little ash I have is gone five minutes after it sits in the pickle. the surface shows no roughness from ash.
@@ChristophLehner my burn out cycle rise of 200 degrees Faren. to 500 degree. hold for 4 hours maybe five.. then 200 degree rise to 1450 and hold for four or five hours. then cool to 1250 and hold for two hours and cast. this burn out is for non ferrous metal such as brass bronze and silver. I do not cast aluminum.
also I buy casting investment. the cracks I saw in your mold led me to believe you are using Plaster of Paris. Had a friend tell that you could use potters plaster and silica flower of 325 mesh and come out pretty well. I do not know this for fact, but silica is one of the main elements in casting investment. this would add some cost but still cheaper than casting investment.
Thanks so much for sharing your slurry recipe. I've been playing with sodium silicate and sand, but its not going well. A liquid like thins can get riiiiiight into all the details. "Diatomaceous earth" I have never heard or seen of that. So cool! Thanks!
Can you guide should we use polymaker shining machine ?
Hey man, just wanted to let you know I thought this was a great video. Well done, and good pick with the music. Watched the whole thing!
I really appreciate that!
just a guess: the ashes might be the from the pigments in the regular PLA, it may be worth it to try a "natural" PLA.
Thats a good idea, as soon as i get hands on a translucent PLA, i will try it out.
Thanks for the comment
@@ChristophLehner natural is typically actually more beige really, that's what you're looking for to make sure it's actually natural
Did you notice if you have to have a lower nozzle temperature for polycast compared to regular filament like Polymax?
No, i printed it like regular PLA, 200C and 215C on the first layer, altough bedadhesion was a issue, so using a gluestick would be good
How well does your investment recipe do with cracking while drying and burnout? I'm about to do my own castings with polycast I'm hoping to save money with your recipe.
Hello, amazing work! I've been struggling for a while with some issues with this filament. I would really appreciate some tips. Im using the same 3D-Printer and Cura. Thank you!
What's the issue excatly? Bed adhesion?
@@ChristophLehner I'm printing a very small object with lots of details (a ring), using the smallest nozzle possible 0.2mm. I can't get the quality required, I guess because of the stringing. I've tried different configurations with Cura but none have proved succesful
@@antonioquirosvalerio1812 combing mode all
Very good job!!! I have probably a naive question....what was the % infill and the wall thickness that you use during the 3d printing..I guess very thin walls...might do better during the burnout procedure. You have a new subscriber.
I did 2 shells no infill. Since you have less to burnout and also less expanding force when the filament gets hot
@@ChristophLehner Do you remember the thickness of the shells? THanks
@@learningpower9437 it was 0.4mm for each shell
@@ChristophLehner Sorry to bother you with so many questions...have you ever try to make a very thin wall from your 3d print (one layer)...and add the melted aluminum directly...(avoiding the plaster and burnout procedure) ???
@@learningpower9437 don't feel sorry :)
No i didn't, but i've seen some videos, and the surface quality is not so good. Comparable to sandcasting...
Are the voids in the polycast version from air trapped?
The hole at the bow ship, is because some debris has fallen into the form, before pouring the aluminium
Ive bought all the ingredients to make your investment and im getting ready to do my own castings with cast aluminum. I was hoping you could let me know what kind of burnout schedule you follow for your castings. Im using polycast filament. My castings will be a bit larger then the ones you did, but itd still be great to know how to heat the investment and have the best chances for success on my first attempt at casting.
👍💓!!
Wonder how much better the surface finish on the polycast would be using the polysher. It was very good from the looks of it without. According to their website the polysher works with the polycast as well as the polysmooth. I’d like to try the polydissolve for supports with the polycast
AFAIK, you can use Isopropanol and rub it on the print, to hide layerlines
I have been placing my Polycast parts in a strong ziplock bag with 91% ISA and shacking a little for 6 minutes. Pull part out, let dry and then do again, until I am happy with all the lines are gone. It has worked very well.
You use a unique recipe for the mold . any advantages other than the ability the break it apart easier? maybe it conduct heat better than a mixture of only plaster and sand ?
The DE is from what i know a little bit like a reinforcement, like microscopic fibers but i need to to further testing, if it really makes much a difference
@@ChristophLehner Thanks . i am about to build my first furnace to metal cast some of my sculptures. which are moderate in size , and i figured out i need a pretty large crucible. , of at least 1 litter. if i may ask your advice , do you think it is possible to cast in 2-3 batches to fill the mold?
Hello, I just started with 3d printing and metal casting, just missing the burn out furnace. What do you recommend to buy?
Hi,
If you are handy i would try to build it yourself. Look up Pauls Garage or vegoilguy, channel, he has some videos about building a furnace
Sadly the second pour was contaminated by oxide skins etc falling from the crucible into the mould at the start of the pour, rendering any true comparison moot.. Martin
Thanks for the comment, thats the First time i really noticed the premature aluminium droplet in the second mold. This explains the hole in the tip of the benchy
I have better luck with natural pla over any of the so called casting filaments
Isn't natural pla also colored?
Or did you use transparent pla?
@@ChristophLehner transparent If bring the mold up to 1450 for five hours. What little ash I have is gone five minutes after it sits in the pickle. the surface shows no roughness from ash.
@@robertroberts2795 thanks for the insight, i'll try transparent pla in the future
@@ChristophLehner my burn out cycle rise of 200 degrees Faren. to 500 degree. hold for 4 hours maybe five.. then 200 degree rise to 1450 and hold for four or five hours. then cool to 1250 and hold for two hours and cast. this burn out is for non ferrous metal such as brass bronze and silver. I do not cast aluminum.
also I buy casting investment. the cracks I saw in your mold led me to believe you are using Plaster of Paris. Had a friend tell that you could use potters plaster and silica flower of 325 mesh and come out pretty well. I do not know this for fact, but silica is one of the main elements in casting investment. this would add some cost but still cheaper than casting investment.