Toyota/Lexus 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2021
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In this 2-part video series, we replace the timing belt and associated parts on a 2008 Lexus GX470 with the 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Engine. This engine can be found in a lot of other vehicles including: Sequoias, Tundras, 4th Gen 4Runners, 100 Series Land Cruisers and Lexus LX470s so this video will help you replace the timing belt and associates parts on these models as well. There might be slight differences between the models but the bulk of the job should be very similar.
In Part 2, we get everything put back together starting with the installation of the water pump.
*PARTS LIST*
*Aisin Timing Belt Kit #TKT-O21 (Comes with timing belt, timing belt tensioner, #1 & #2 idler pulleys, and water pump and water pump gaskets) amzn.to/3eYLt40
*Toyota Thermostat #9091603138
amzn.to/33vLtU6
*Lexus Thermostat Housing Seal #1634650010
amzn.to/3eYM0D2
*Denso Radiator #221-3125
amzn.to/3y162Wv
*Toyota Radiator Cap #16401-31650
amzn.to/3uABBEe
*Aisin Seal Kit #SKT-002 (Comes with both cams seals, crankshaft seal and the little rubber piece that goes onto the side of the lower timing cover.) amzn.to/3b9RKJh
*Toyota Crankshaft Seal #90311A0001 (If you only want to replace this seal)
amzn.to/3tAuMkR
*Aisin Fan Pulley Bracket #FBT-002
amzn.to/2RFGKwp
*Lexus Lower Radiator Hose #1657150200
amzn.to/3uCxRlC
*Lexus Upper Radiator Hose #1657250190
amzn.to/3ew8gVP
*Radiator Hose Clamps #90466A0026
* Toyota Crank Bolt #90109-18003
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
*Gates 90K-38488 Serpentine Belt Drive Component Kit (Used tensioner and belt from this kit.) amzn.to/3xZ2Tqc
*Lexus 16604-0F010, Drive Belt Idler Pulley
amzn.to/3euci18
Engine Coolant - 2 Gallons ( You actually need more than 2, so buy 3 gallons)
amzn.to/33HWxh1
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
*Dremel Tool Kit
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*Toyota FIPG #00295-00103
amzn.to/2QrNVFO
*Silicone Paste
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*Lisle Spill-Free Funnel
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*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
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*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set
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*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
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*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set
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*3/8” Drive Universal Impact Socket Set
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*Impact Socket Adapter and Reducer Set
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*3/8" Drive Wobble Impact Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*18 Quart Food Storage Container
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*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers
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*Straight Needle Nose Pliers
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*Adjustable Spark Plug Wire Puller
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*Small Pick Tool Set
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set
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*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
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*3/8” Drive Swivel
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*Telescoping Magnet Pick-up Tool
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*Tekton Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set
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*Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool
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*1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long
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*Kroil Penetrant
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*Lisle Adjustable Seal Puller
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*Crankshaft and Camshaft Seal Tool Kit
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*Mini Grease Gun
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*Red Devil All Purpose Grease
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 4 Day 3 // GEN vs TS | PRX vs ZETA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nspkjQuZve0/mqdefault.jpg)
*NOTE* - At play time 06:00, We used Black 103 FIPG to reseal the water inlet to the water pump. We learned after the fact that Toyota has a FIPG meant specifically for coolant applications. It's *Toyota Seal Packing 1282b, Part **#08826**-00100.* We have heard people haven't had issues with using the 103 FIPG for these types of coolant applications, but to play it safe, we suggest you use 1282b FIPG.
*TORQUE VALUES*
*Water Pump*
5 bolts - 16 ft-lbs
2 stud bolts and nut - 13 ft-lbs
*Water Inlet*
2 bolts - 13 ft-lbs
*Thermostat Neck*
3 Bolts - 14 ft-lbs
*#2 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
25 ft-lbs
*#1 Timing Belt Idler Pulley*
25 ft-lbs
*Timing Belt Tensioner*
19 ft-lbs
*#1 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*Crank Bolt*
181 ft-lbs
*Fan Bracket*
12mm bolt and nut - 12 ft-lbs
14mm bolt and nut - 24 ft-lbs
*Dynamic Tensioner*
bolts and nuts - 11 ft-lbs
*#2 Timing Belt Cover Sub Assembly*
12 ft-lbs
*#3 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*Oil Cooler Pipe*
bolt and nut - 66 in-lbs
*#2 Timing Cover*
66 in-lbs
*#2 Idler Pulley Sub Assembly*
29 ft-lbs
*Alternator*
12mm nut - 12 ft-lbs
14mm nut and bolt - 29 ft-lbs
*Power Steering Pump*
nut and bolts - 32 ft-lbs
*Radiator*
9 ft-lbs
By far the best tutorial videos on the entire internet!
Thanks Bro! We appreciate your very nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
true!!!! I've been looking for good tutorials and watching Timmy's have been the best!!
Watched both videos before tackling this job. Read tons of comments in both comment sections and applied some of their tips/lessons learned. Used the videos along the way under the hood. Tons of great information!! This saved me so much time and money! I appreciate your dedication and attention to detail. You guys are the best!
Glad it worked out for you. Great job tackling this job. I bet it feels good doing such an involved job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Great job Tim! I started watching your videos when I had a gen 3 4Runner and now you have me covered for my next big project with my GX470. As always you go above and beyond to help us all understand what it takes to get the job done. Thanks for all your hard work!
Thanks Daniel. It's interesting, many other guys said something similar that they knew us when they had a 3rd Gen 4runner but now they either have an LX470 or GX470. We always really try to cover the job as thoroughly as possible so nobody gets lost using one of our videos as a tutorial. Reading comments like yours lets us know we're doing things right. We do from time to time get people whining that our videos are too long but these people are in the severe minority. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching. Hope your timing belt job goes smooth.
Replaced my engine and absolutely couldn't have been successful without Timmy! I did my prayer to the timing belt gods, and they were forgiving... started right up.
It's great to hear you were successful with your engine swap with the help of our videos. It's awesome when the Wrenching Gods are on our side. Awesome job doing that job on your own. Thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
If you haven't done this on the 2007 and earlier version 2UZ FE Non VVT somethings are different and more Difficult!
Just finishing up Major maintenance service on my 04 Land cruiser, Adjusting/Shimming Valves with Solid Lifters and the Yota shims is a Bitch!
OEM Toyota timing belt, Tensioner, Idler Pulleys, Water Pump kit
Front Disc Brake Calipers
4 Lift Supports Gas Struts Land Cruiser Front Hood/Rear Liftgate
Beck/Arnley Auto Trans Filter Kit
TOYOTA Genuine ATF Type T-IV Transmission Fluid 12 Quart
Old Man Emu Front & Rear Sport Shock
DNJ Cylinder Head Gasket set with Head Bolt Kit
Starter Motor Bosch Reman
Left & Right Exhaust Manifolds
8-DENSO SK20R11 3297 Long Life Iridium Spark Plugs OEM
Aisin Engine Cooling Fan Clutch OEM
Water pump bearing bracket ASIN OEM
Pair Knock Sensors Set of 2
Denso Remanufactured Alternator OEM
Denso 221-3152 Radiator OEM
Hitachi Camshaft Position Sensor
Hitachi Crankshaft Position Sensor
Oil cooler maintenance kit OEM
2UZ Radiator hose set OEM
2UZ Heater Hose kit OEM
PCV Kit-w/hoses OEM
Fuel Tube Connector- Green Clip OEM
Denso Ignition Coil X 8 OEM
Best auto service tutorial I’ve ever seen, let along for the 2uz-fe. 👍🏻
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it very much.. We always try our best to give the most detail and information possible in our videos so people can be successful using one of our tutorials. Happy Wrenching!
This is the BEST 2uz-fe timing belt video on the web. Believe me, I’ve watched them all. This is my 4th or 5th timing belt job on a 4Runner. I buy and sell them for fun. This video was accurate, well filmed, with good explanations of ALL of the steps. SUBSCRIBED !!!!!!!!!>
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Just finished my 2003 4Runner and your videos helped so much! I appreciate you taking the time to do these detailed videos. It was a 2 day ordeal for me on my own but it’s finally done🤙🏽
Good to know our videos helped you get the job done. Great job!
Hands down THE best tutorial on this job! Tim and Shawn are the most important tools for Toyota trucks service and repairs
Hey Dan, we are stoked to hear comments like these and super appreciate that you took the time to share your feedback! Don’t hesitate to drop a comment on one of your videos if you have a question - we pride ourself in answering comments on a timely fashion!
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman not a problem Sean. I think Toyota tech trainers are secretly using your camera work to make their jobs easier. I'm going to post a question on your u-joint video... and probably buy a t-shirt to support you guys.
Send me an email at hmb4rnr@gmail.com
And we will send out some stickers for ya 🤙🏼
I was able to replace a rear axle shaft a couple of years ago on my first gen 2003 Tundra thanks to your excellent tutorial videos (and the help of an ingeniously made jig purchased on eBay). It's no longer my daily driver - that honor goes to a Toyota 86 - but, with 240,000 miles on the old girl, the little angel sitting on my shoulder is warning me that I really should replace the belt on this interference (boo) engine. I may pay to have it done but if I decide to tackle it myself, it will be because of these two videos. You are a great teaching mechanic.
Hey Mikey, great to hear our videos have helped you out and we appreciate your kind words. I think you should do the timing belt job. If you take your time, you'll get it done no problem. Happy Wrenching!
I used this and Part 1 to replace my timing belt on a '99 LX470. I went by the FSM for everything except the timing belt installation. Getting tension between the cams was the most important part of the installation process. That and making sure nothing fell out of time. Thanks for your help, Timmy. PS - I'd recommend putting the water inlet on last next time ; )
Glad our videos helped you out. If I ever do another timing belt job on one of these engines, I'll use your recommendation.
Thanks! Really appreciate the time you took to make a thorough video for this motor. It's my first time doing this for this truck. Glad to find your channel 👍.
Enjoy the beer
You're very welcome Paul. Great to know our video helped you out. Thanks for the beer!
Thanks so much! Just spent a couple of days taking my time with my computer sitting on my intake manifold. Best how to series ever!
You're very welcome, Micaell. We're glad our video series helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Tim! I just completed a timing belt and water pump job on my 2005 Tundra. For the most part your video lines up with my Tundra. I think there is a little more room in my engine bay than the vehicle in your video. I can’t emphasize enough how an extra set of hands helps on this job. Made it through it regardless. Great Video!
Good job Brett! Great to hear our video helped you out. Yes, an extra set of hands is very nice to have. One of the last jobs I did on my 3rd Gen 4runner, I was solo and really needed help at one point because I needed a 3rd hand. With a little help from my wife, I easily got past the stumbling block and finished the job.
Great channel learning a lot ! I have a 2000 tundra V8 4.7 179,000. Ur videos helped me change 02 sensor , breakers now I’m going to tackle radiator flush. Thanks for all the great videos and information.
Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Just watching some videos in preparation for doing this job in the future, I have a sequoia and a GX, so it's not going to be too long until I need to do this service. Thanks for these videos man, seriously a life saver with all the detail you've given.
You're welcome Jordan. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Just tackled my 2uz-fe on my 06 DC Tundra w/ the VVT. I watched your videos two times each and had it playing as I did the job. Could not have asked for a better tutorial to do this job. I too used the “T” marks beside the actual timing marks and had zero issues with the cams wanting to move. Thanks for the time and effort put into making these videos. Keep em coming!
Hey Aaron, great to know our video series helped you get the timing belt job done on your Tundra. Great Job and Happy Wrenching!
I intentionally listened to the advice to remove the belt on the T mark instead of the proper marks, and it has bitten me in the butt. It's throwing P0018 and P0016 codes. Now I have to take it all apart again.
@TimmyTheToolman I would greatly appreciate some additional guidance on how to realign everything now that it is off timing.
The best TH-cam video of timing belt change of 2UZ-FE.
Thanks for the compliment.
Thank you for doing this! My wife’s 07 Sequoia is due this summer. I will be using this video. Keep up the good work!
You're welcome Craig. Hope the job goes smooth for you when you get around to doing it.
Hi Craig,
I just own a ‘07 Sequoia 4X4 last summer and i’m sure it need these maintenance job very soon. Replacing timing belt, camshaft/crankshaft seals and water pump.
I’ve done research but i’m afraid it’s not enough.
Have you done the job as you mentioned with your wife’s Sequoia? How did it go? As far as the timing was done? Did you had it on the “T” mark? Need some input on thses part. Thanks.
Just finished this job using your two videos as a step by step guide... Great job taking the time to break the procedure down into each step and going into such great detail. That had to be a lot of work, but it sure made it easy on my end... I set up a laptop and just paused the video at each step. I would like to add that I think you're right about using the "T" on the heads to line up with the cams' timing marks before removing the belt. My truck is an '05 4runner... one of the ones that you're supposed to turn the crank 50 degrees COUNTER clockwise from TDC. The Toyota shop manual, a Haynes manual and the instructions that came with my Gates timing belt kit all said to turn the crankshaft COUNTER clockwise 50 degrees before removing the belt. I opted to trust the manuals and both of my cams jumped quite a bit when I removed the belt (no damage as it turns out... I was worried though!) I did notice that both cams wanted to naturally rest in the position where the timing mark on the sprocket lines up with the "T" on the head so I think you were right by suggesting that using the "T" as a starting point is the better option... at least on my engine. There seems to be an error in the Toyota procedure. Again, great job! Thank you!
Hey Paul, great to hear you appreciate the work we put into these videos. Yes, it's a ton of work to film and edit a project like this. Thanks for confirming that the "T" position for the crank pulleys seems to be the right position to put them in before removing the belt. Also, thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Very informative for me as a DIYer and the video is so amazingly clear. I will be using your video guide in my 2002 LX470 timing belt project in the coming days. Thank you so much for this.
You're very welcome. Good luck with the timing belt job. Be sure to read the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for additional information for the job.
I'm just an average mechanic at home and aircraft mechanic at work. I'm good with tools. This was first timing belt job ever. I have a 2008 tundra with 61k miles on it. Belt was way over due. With this step by steps series. I was able to complete it with no problems. Thank you for this!
You're very welcome! I'm happy to know our video series helped you get this job done.
Ok, now I have just enough information to get myself in trouble. I did this about 10 years ago on the same truck. I now have 200,000 miles and it is time to do it again but I forgot how, so TIMMY is the go to guy on all things Toyota. Thank you for your work and time on the videos. Always informative and entertaining.
You'll be fine Paul. We did find out the "T" position for the cams is the right spot to turn them to before removing the belts. People have reported the cams won't jump in that position.
You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Take your time and enjoy it. Happy Wrenching!
Never done this before. Water pump locked up and timing belt broke. But I watch a part come off, paused video and took part off. Then repeated through the entire part 1 video. Putting back together done same thing with this video. Now I'm back on the road with just the price of parts. Thank you guys.
That's a good way to use video tutorials. I do the same thing. Watch a section, pause the video, perform the step and repeat until you're done with the job. Great to hear you were successful using our video.
First thanks a lot!!! I recently got an '02 sequoia after selling my 98 4Runner. The sequoia had no service history so I knew that the timing belt job would have to be done asap. My truck is non VVTi so I was able to replace the cam seals, which are most likely a similar style to that on the 5VZFE. Also thanks, I'm a full time teacher and only 24, not a auto tech by trade but I love cars (Toyotas and Lexus specifically) your channel has helped me more times than once and I'm almost finished with this job thanks to your help!
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out.
Awesome job Timmy & Tam. Great job guys. Thank you.
Thanks Edy. You're very welcome.
Hay Timmy thanks so much for the video. I did my timing belt years ago, but couldn’t quite remember all the details and this video was perfect exactly what I needed. Thanks so much.
You're very welcome Ed. I'm glad our video helped you out.
Just want to say thanks for all this info. Completed the job with this tutorial. For someone wondering, if you’re organized and take your time you can do this.
For the cam jumping, I found that if you align the timing mark on the balancer with 0, then turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark lines up with the nub on the timing cover, the timing marks on the cams will align with the “T” and you shouldn’t have an issue.
Also, if you don’t have an impact gun and test the alignment of your timing belt by rotating the engine, the crank bolt can be tough to get off. If you’re having this problem, put a short wrench on the crank bolt and give it a few good taps with a mallet and it should break free.
Glad our video helped you get the job done. You're welcome. Thanks for confirming the "T" spot on the cams is good for keeping the cams from jumping and sharing your tip for the crank bolt removal after rotating the engine. Happy Wrenching!
Best instructional video in TH-cam thank you for sharing your experience.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome.
Such a great video! You guys really helped out a lot with many people that had to do this job.
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad our video series helped you out.
Excellent video Tim, I took several pages of notes for when the time comes on mine, thank you very much!!
Thanks for the compliment Russell and you're very welcome. When the time comes, I hope the job goes smoothly for you.
I might've said this before, but I really appreciate the extra details you discuss for us novices. I recently did a drum brake job with your video playing. I noticed other TH-camrs explain jobs while having your videos play in the background. You are a pretty good resource for us Toyota owners.
(Comment from Sean) Hey thanks for the kind word Pluto! You’ve really noticed other TH-camrs with our videos playing in the background? That’s pretty cool. Glad our videos were able to help you out!
(Comment from Timmy) Great to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. We purposely gear our videos to the absolute beginner because then everyone can be successful, not just the experienced paid or DIY mechanic.
I find the other thing you said very interesting. So, you're saying other DIY Mechanic TH-camrs are making their own video for a job and you noticed they were playing our video in the background as a reference? Could you send us a link with one of those videos and a time stamp where you can clearly see that they're using our video as a reference? I guess the ultimate flattery is somebody copying your own work. Do these TH-camrs mention us and give us credit as one of their resources for the job? We obviously want people to benefit from our videos, but if they use our content and then try to pass it off as their own with no mention of us, that's not something we like. There was a guy that did a write-up of a timing belt job on a Tacoma forum that mimicked exactly what we instruct in our videos. The guy did make mention of our 2 part video but it was like it was an afterthought. I told the guy that he should have just said at the very beginning his write-up was based on our video series to clearly give us credit for the work we put forth. We're not perfect, but Sean and I usually try to give credit to the people we used as a reference for our videos. We think it's important to give credit where credit is due.
@@TimmyTheToolman there is one where your voice is faintly playing in the background for several seconds, talking about a job, while the youtuber is talking to us about the same job. I think it was about a suspension lift. I doubt I could find it if I tried. Forgettable video.
There was a commenter on that video who also noticed your voice/auido playing. The channel itself was two 20-something guys in a garage, acting all nonchalant, but it was a dedicated, monetized car channel nonetheless.
I was talking in the plural in the first comment, but it was just that one video that I heard your video in. That said, I suspect many more people follow you when making their own YT videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just flicked through a bunch of thumbnails, but don't know the one I'm looking for. I don't think I can find it. I will take note if I see that stuff again. It would irritate the hell out of me. It's like writing a book based on a book.
@@plutosforest No worries. Glad you agree with my position. Hopefully these people using our content gave us some credit.
I concur with comments about great content quality. Appreciate the in depth explanations. I also would love to see a 4.7 Toyota/Lexus starter replacement.
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Thanh wants to replace his starter as preventative maintenance so this video will happen at some point soon.
Best video I ended up just following you along while working on my car. Ended up leaving the thermostat housing off until I got everything lined up. Also on my vvt engine just put the new belt on the t marks. Everything lined up perfect. Also left the idler and tensioner wheel loose which made it much easier to get the belt onto the crank sprocket then torque down those two down and pulled the tensioner pin once verified the marks lined up. Now have to do my other truck.
Good job! I'm glad our video assisted you in getting it done.
Thanks for the video. As a kid that can't do brakes with a TH-cam video this job was a long one, 20 hours first day. But I got it done on my 03 4runner.
You're very welcome and Good Job!
Brother just did water pump and timing belt your video knocked it out of the fucking park! I can admit without it I would be stuck.
It's great to know our video helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. I appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
I just finished up. Very helpful, doing this solo for the first time. The service manual steered me wrong when it came to the cams, I should have tried the t marks. I was too scared to mess something up haha.
it CAM be intimidating, but from others that have commented, it seems that putting everything at TDC seemed to work well for others
Awesome videos!!! Tim your video gave me confidence and knowledge to tackle this job. Thanks
Thanks Jesse. Great to hear our videos inspired you to do this job on your own. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the fantastic video. Finally got around to doing the second timing belt on our ‘05 Sequoia at 190k. Very easy to follow! Btw, the cam “T” marks were the way to go when removing the belt. Thanks again!
You're very welcome Tyler. Thanks for letting us know the "T" marks worked out for you. Many others have reported the same thing. Happy Wrenching!
TIMMY!
Thank you so much! You gave me the courage do it to my 2003 Sequoia. Your a great instructor! Thanks Brother 🤙
You're very welcome Eliot. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Complete! I finished Sunday. I was so nervous to start the engine and vroom!! Success. Thanks again I had you there step by step! GOODAnTight Lol.
I have had the vsc trak lights on for sometime anything I can do to figure out why and fix?
@@YoJoeySmacks Good job Eliot. The VSC Trac lights coming on after this job isn't something we experienced. The one time I dealt with those lights and was able to get them cleared is when I swapped out a hydraulic brake booster on a GX470. Somehow the "Zero Point Calibration" gets thrown off and you have to reset it. The only problem though is you need the Toyota Tech Stream program to do it. Check out this video and go to play time 36 minutes and 26 seconds: th-cam.com/video/EMRvzD0ep3A/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolmanMy VSC Lights were on before I did the timing belt.
Impressive detailed work and description. Thank you.
Thanks for the compliment. You're very welcome.
Hey Tim, I have a 2008 Gx470, I used the "T" marks, nothing slipped, the cams stayed in place. everything worked perfect. I followed your step by step instructions. First time doing anything like this.... awesome job! if you have the tools, do it!!! Thanks!!!
Thanks Kevin for letting us know that. That's a big help. We appreciate it. That's great the job went well for you using our video as a tutorial. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@kevinvick thank you for saying that. Should I use those T marks as well?. I posted a question asking about that and what they are.
@@TimmyTheToolman I used the T marks Taking the old timing belt off do I use the T marks installing the new timing belt or do I use the the regular timing lines ? Are the T marks for removing the timing belt or are the T marks also used fir installing new timing belt
@@aurelioroyce9931 The T position really has nothing to do with getting the belt on properly. You need to get the lines (Right and Left Cams) on the new belt properly lined up with the timing marks on each camshaft pulley, and then you need to get the timing line for the crankshaft lined up with the crankshaft timing gear. I didn't say it in the video, but there should be a small timing dot on the crankshaft timing gear that faces forward towards the radiator. That timing dot, should line up with the "CR" line on the timing belt. Once you get all 3 timing marks lined up, you do a couple full revolutions of the engine and confirm the camshaft pulleys line up with their respective timing marks and the crankshaft timing gear lines up with its respective timing mark and you're good to go.
Well, took everything apart over the weekend and constantly referred to this video. Thank you for the time put in.
I have the non VVTi engine in a sequoia and I went to the T marks for belt removal and no springing. I feel like it moved pretty freely between TDC and the T Marks. My opinion- I think it’s safe at both for non VVTi models.
You're welcome! Good job doing it yourself and saving a ton of money. Thanks for mentioning your experience with the "T" position and TDC.
great video, very well explained. 🍻
Thanks. We're glad you like it.
Thank you for the great instructions. I watched both videos and will buy and use the tools you recommended. I wish you were in Colorado. ..
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Best video I have ever watched! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Best video ever?!! But Have you seen the shinning with Jack Nicolson???
- Sean
I just paid Toyota to do my timing belt on my tundra with the 2uz fe. They charged me $2500 for the job which included the camshaft seals. Now I understand why. Great video! Lots of valuable information! Thank you!
That is a crazy amount of money. Did they tell you the camshaft seals were leaking and that's why they replaced them? Thanh's engine had over 200k and his didnt show any signs of leaking yet. Doing the camshaft seals would be a lot more labor, but still, $2500 is a crazy amount for a timing belt job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for this information! $2800 is what I was quoted from a small shop in Daly City this week. Included in this was the Cam seals (there is no signs of leaking). Otherwise he has it would be closer to 1,600.
@@kat4animals004 $1600 is still a crap load of money. I'd use our tutorial and buy the tools you need. The tools you can use again and again to save you even more money.
@@TimmyTheToolman I would like to but I am not sure if the time is right. Would you be able to do the job on my tundra? I could help- assist with job, film... I would drive to you and bring all parts. I'd travel from Concord. Would you consider this?
@@TimmyTheToolman Also- If you wanna- I have an mechanical issue that I have Never seen addressed. My horn does Not work! Only intermittently, then only a short beep. I purchased tundra this way in 2017. Replaced the relay and that did not resolve the issue. Would you like to use my tundra for a repair video!? I have not seen any videos or any instruction of this issue, and I have searched on and off for years.
Tim, I wanted to let you know that this video is so well done that it inspired me to purchase a 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser. I know the engine in mine is a little different but not much different. Thanks for the great content. Tell Sean as well.
That's a cool story Richard. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Excellence, strong work ! Thanks
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome!
Great videos!!!! Over this last weekend I did the water pump, timing belt and other parts on my 2005 Tundra since it was apart. I used the T marks and the cams stayed in place after removing the belt. After getting everything reinstalled. I went to start it up and nothing!!!! Gotta say my heart sank.....I forgot to reconnect up the battery.....What a Dumb Ass!! But after reconnecting the battery, the truck fired right up and is running great !!!! Also liked your jokes!!!! Thanks!
Thanks Anne. Great to hear our videos helped you get the job done. Thanks for confirming the T marks for the cams worked for you. Also thanks for appreciating my humor. Not many mention it but we try to break up the monotony of these videos with a little humor. You're very welcome Anne. Happy Wrenching!
Esto si es calidad de mecanico y mucha tranquilida para un cliente todo a torque como dice el fabricante 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Gracias Roberto.
Very professional job
Also explain very clear
Thanks Leobardo. We appreciate the compliment.
The best ever..tutorial mechanics Godbless you sir.. thank you very much ...staysafe always
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
And the Oscar for best automotive repair video of the year goes to .... Timmy and crew. Holy crap - what an epic experience. Script, videography, lighting, production quality, etc. were excellent. Also the notes in the comment section, tool recommendations, the whole enchilada. How long did this job take to do? (real elapsed time). And how much post editing time did it take to produce this masterpiece for automotive repair history? Do you have a day job, or is this your fulltime gig? I kneel in reverence... This is the gold standard for "how to" videos.
Hey Dwight, I really appreciate your very nice compliment of our work. You made my day!
I'll give you an idea of what goes into a video like this since you asked.
1) To start, I do research and watch any existing videos others have done to pick up tips and other helpful information. I'll also read forum write-uos that I find. Don't know how many hours I spent doing this but probably somewhere around 4.
2) I read the Toyota or Lexus Facfory Service Manual pages for the job. Sometimes this requires me to buy a subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website so I can access the information and download it in a PDF format, like I had to do for this job. This probably took me around 3 hours to download and read through the material to become familiar with it.
3) Before the job, I went over the parts list with Thanh to make sure he had everything we needed. Sometimes we have everything and other times we have to make a run to Toyota because we didn't have a part we needed. Probably another hour for this.
4) The 3 three of us found a date that worked with all our schedules and we committed a whole day to it.
5) It's interesting you mentioned a script. We have an idea of how we want the video to flow, but none of the dialog is scripted. We take it right off the top of our heads while we are shooting.
6) This job took us all day, can't remember how long but most likely 8-10 hours.
7) The editing for us on a 2-part video like this is easily 30 hours, but that's just a guesstimate.
8) Getting all the information together for the video description is probably another 3 hours.
9) If my math is correct, the time expense is around 50 hours.
10) That's pretty much it for the time expense to get a video like this published on our channel, but in reality, the clock keeps ticking because we take the time to answer most people's questions and acknowledge their comments, like I'm doing for you.
Sean and I both have regular jobs. I'm a firefighter and he works for Apple. We love running our TH-cam channel and reading comments like yours really helps fuel our desire to keep doing it. So, thank you, thank you, thank you for your compliment of our hard work and acknowledging our investment of time to put out a quality video for the DIY Mechanic Community. Happy Wrenching Dwight!
@@TimmyTheToolman Happy to recognize your efforts. Do you have a Patreon account? If not, you should consider it. You are saving people a considerable amount of time and money (and frustration), and I'm sure many of your viewers, me included, would be honored to buy you a beer, help defray your costs, and motivate you to keep up the good work.
@@dwight_klaus2981 Hey Dwight, we don't have a Patreon account. We've considered it but haven't started one yet. We do have a "Tip Jar" link on our home page that people have used to send us money. The link is under the picture of me, next to the links to our Facebook and Instagram pages.
I guess for me, I'd never want to charge people for access to our content and that's what I sort of understand a Patreon membership would be. People pay for access to things that others can't access without a membership.
At first when we got started, we weren't making any money. Now we're making a decent amount from TH-cam, and from our Amazon and Ebay Associates Memberships.
Thanks again Dwight. We appreciate it!
@@dwight_klaus2981 I just saw your $10 Super Thanks. We appreciate it Dwight. I wish more people were like you. The high, high, high majority of people who use our videos don't comment to thank us for our efforts. They might give a thumbs up, and that's cool, but it doesn't have the same effect as reading a nice comment like you gave us. And, most of the people who use our videos don't bother to subscribe to our channel. It's almost like people feel they were owed the content we provided and they don't need to take the time to thank us for our efforts. Like you said, our videos are saving people lots of time, money and frustration, but they can't take a few minutes out of their day to thank us. That's unfortunate and speaks to what our society has become. The only thing our audience has to deal with is the annoying ads, but, that's a small price to pay for the content they get access to.
I like to surround myself with generous people who will go out of their way to help their fellow man. I don't care for selfish people. So, thanks for your unselfish acts of commenting to thank us and acknowledge our efforts and thanks for the donation.
Great vid, helped a lot!
We're happy to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Congratulations my friend Fresno California
Thanks Jose.
I love your intro music!!!
It’s a Pretty wicked beat!
- Sean
The timing Gods of the 2 UZ Gods lol.
Somebody gets my sense of humor.
Great video !
Thanky you
Yes. It is the best video we have ever seen?
Thanks for the video Tim, I have a 2006 tundra and I can confirm that when I set the timing marks to the “T” atdc, the cams did not spring back.
Thanks for confirming that for us Steve. Others have said the same thing. Kind of weird how the factory service manuals for all the vehicles with this 2UZ engine have a multitude of different instructions on how to position the crankshaft before removing the belt, but not one of them mentions using the "T" marks for the cams.
Thanks Steve!
My 2006 Tundra sends its best.
How many miles did you have on it and did the belt look good still, assuming it's the 1st TB job?
Appreciate it
Great content! Please do a Starter replacement video for this engine if you get a chance.
We're already talking about it.
I just had a rodent chew up my starter connections it was definitely challenging.
The hardest part was taking the 3 bolts that hold the starter. I had to use a flex head ratchet and become a contortionist i used a strap to hold the wiring in the back as much out of the way it help but those three bolts took me hours to take off
Wow man, I may subscribe. You have a good knack of this, one of the better DIY step-by-step vids I've seen for ANY repair. Nice job! I'm a new 4.7 owner (bought w/ 221K mi) in a Tundra, an experienced DIYer, and not afraid of most repairs. Most recently on a Ford 5.7 I did a TC/WP replacement, and frankly this looks like a cleaner job, even if it's slightly more involved. DOHC will do that. 😁 But Toyotas are easier to work on anyway.
May subscribe? You're a hard sell. If this video didn't impress you enough to subscribe, I guess nothing will. By the way, we will have more content as time goes on for the 4.7 liter engine.
Thank you for the very detailed video, please do the beast starter for this car.
You're very welcome John. We are planning on making a video for the starter replacement.
Did this job yesterday. Lined up to the T and no jumping, worked great. 2005 Lexus GX470. The only issue was the compressor, the lower bolt didnt seem long enough with that little bracket (yes its one of the long ones, not the shorter one used in the back of the compressor). So proceeded without the bracket...
Yep, many other people have commented and reported the same thing that the "T" position worked to have the cams stay put. That's interesting about that AC bracket bolt.
Very good info
Thanks.
Thanks. Huge help
You're welcome Seth. Glad you found our video helpful.
Excellent video! I just finished my 07 4runner. Cams at T marks was the way to go. One thing that had me paranoid is the engine sounds after the fact, but i see that your engine sounds the same. I'm talking about the injectors clicking like a bag of marbles being stirred. I must not have noticed it before
Thanks for the compliment Goran. Also thanks for confirming the T marks are the way to go. Others have reported the same. Yeah, the engine always sounded like that. We just alerted your ears to it and now you notice it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Hey tim, doing a timing belt on an 02 sequoia. I took the belt off at the I mark and not the T for the cams and the dimple lined up at the crank/oil pump. That did not work as the cams kept jumping and was constantly off a tooth when performing the hand rotation with belt and tensioner on. Advanced the cams to T marks and advanced the crank. Installed the belt and performed hand rotation of belt. 2 full revolutions and everything lined up. Just a heads up. Non vvti 4.7l.
Thanks for the comment. Many others have also reported the "T" position is the correct position to put the cams at to eliminate the cams from jumping. Good job doing the timing belt job on your own. Happy Wrenching!
Thank for sharing
Our pleasure. We're here to help Toyota/Lexus DIY Auto Mechanics.
Thank you very much!
You're very welcome Jason. Hope the job went smooth for you if you already tackled this job and good luck if you have yet to do it. Happy Wrenching!
Son los mejores tengo una lexus gx470 con 280k millas voy hacer cambio de correa completo me gusto el video saludos
Thanks!
You're very welcome and thanks for the Suoer Thanks!
Love your videos very helpful. Had some wishful thinking, if you could do a 3rd gen 4runner video covering an abs motor pump replacement to get ride of a failing pump making screeching noises. Love your channel.
We would do the ABS pump replacement video if someone asked us for help doing it. Great to hear you love the videos we make..
Good contents Timmy, look forward to do timing chain on the 1fz-fe engine so i can get it done to our 2007 land cruiser.
If we have someone ask us for help with a !FZ-FE timing chain job, we'd be glad to help them out and film it.
I believe 2007 LC has a 2UZFE with VVTi.
@@kamalmani695 you're right, but they came with an inline 6 1fz-fe engine and 4 speed tranny as well in the middle east.
Where do you suggest sourcing a very specific bolt that I found was missing during the disassembly? I’m missing one of the 12mm bolts that holds the number 2 timing belt cover (upper most bolt). Luckily it’ll still be easily accessible without taking too much off but I definitely want to get it on there soon because it goes through the water pump…
Thanks sire.
You're welcome.
Hi there, awesome tutorial! Got both cams on tdc Mark, crankshaft gear notch lined up with little dot on oil pump, put on belt, along with tensioner, then rotated clockwise twice, and all marks still lined up. Pulled the pin, two more rotations, still lined up. But then, when I put harmonic balancer back on, the mark on the balancer is at 5* instead of the 0(tdc Mark). What happened!? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Doesn't make sense, Unless there's major slop with how the harmonic balance fits onto the crankshaft, what you reported doesn't add up. Sometimes the slot in the harmonic balancer that slides over the woodruff key gets wallowed out so there's side to side play which would explain why it's not lining up with the "0" timing mark. If the harmonic balance woodruff key slot isn't wallowed out, I don't understand what could have happened, but it's not correct.
amazing
Thanks Peter.
Hey Tim - love the video but ive found myself hung up here. I lined up everything upon removal, got the belt back on like it was supposed to be and rotated the engine before pulling the pin. Things didnt seem to stay lined up so i removed the belt but my camshaft marks are no longer lined up. How do i get the camshafts back in the correct positions so i can re install the belt and then timing belt tensioner? Thank you!!
Just move the camshafts back to TDC in the direction that's shortest to get there. I can't imagine they are off more than a tooth or two.
Excellent video! Tim's voice is almost identical to that of RJ The Bike Guy's, both have excellent videos on DIY stuff.
Thanks for the compliment. Maybe RJ is my brother from another mother.
great work guys....thanks for the hard work explaining everything and the parts and tool lists provided. enjoyed the video, not sure i would ever tackle this myself. will take mine to good garage when services are needed on my 4runner with the 4.7 v8 i bet its a costly job??
Glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, shops charge a lot for this job.
just bought a 2007, 195,000. one owner. who said had the timing belt, water pump, new radiator sticker stating same on the breather box. Really nice running vehicle. so maybe im good for what? 90-100k? start saving now. What does a new belt change cost? say?
@@covering-some-things Yeah, you're good for around 100k miles. The price depends on the area of the country you're in and whether you go to a dealer or independent shop. In the California Bay Area, a timing belt job would probably cost over $1,000 parts and labor. Labor rates at my local dealer is $200/hour.
Much love, 2006 tundra getting belt, pump and crank. Without the guidance I would blow my motor up
@@JamesDodge-db9xe I hope the job goes well for you. Happy Wrenching!
Hello, at 10:55 you mentioned the bolt tensioner need to have tread lock... Does this apply to the idler tensioner? I recently did a TB replacement and now have oil leak around the oil pump. I pulled the covers off hoping it's the cam seal but not the case. The oil pump is covered with oil. Water pump housing and timming gear area is dry. I only change the tensioner pulley so I didn't take off the bolt. I went back and look at the before pix and the oil pump was dry.
The bolt for the idler that the tensioner applies pressure to is the only bolt the manual suggested putting thread sealant on.
Unfortunately my 2005 Sequoia timing belt broke when the water pump locked up. New belt is in place but no compression on 7 cylinders. Do you know if there is any history of piston or rod damage from piston hitting valves. I'm wondering if valve repair is all that is needed or if pistons/rods may be damaged.
I don't think the rods or pistons would get damaged but valves could certainly get bent. I would say pulling the heads would be in order if you're going to try to repair it yourself.
Just wrapped up bolting everything back together last night, still need to burp the system. Super informative. Got a question tho, I was not thinking at one point prior to removing old belt and cam pulley (even the #1 timing cover) rotated the pulley counterclockwise to align pulley with the 0 mark, did I hurt myself? Maybe 3/4’s of a turn. And all timing lines up after full 2 turns clockwise.
Cheers mate!
You're fine. I highly doubt any damage occurred. You would have felt significant resistance in order to do damage.
When you installed the new timing belt on, I see that you have the timing marks lined up for both cams but was the crank lined up at top dead center? Because you uninstalled the belt with the crank at 50 degrees counterclockwise from top dead center. I'm just wondering if it stayed like that when you went to install the new belt or did you position back to top dead center before installing the new timing belt.
We positioned it back to TDC before putting the belt on.
I am currently in the middle of this same job. I am also using the Aisin kit that includes the 2 idler pulleys. I installed the #1 idler (for the tensioner) and after torquing to 25 ft-lbs, it will not pivot around the sleeve and YES, I made sure the big washer was on the backside. There does not seem to be any defects in any of the parts. I even measured the thickness of the idler casting because it is acting like it's too thick so when I tighten everything down, it won't move. I am thinking I somehow got a bad part but want to be sure before buying another one. Any thoughts?
This is the second time I've heard of this problem in the last 2 weeks. The pulleys must not be made correctly for this to happen. The supplier making those pulleys has a flaw in their design. You should be able to torque it to spec and the pulley moves freely.
@@TimmyTheToolman I appreciate the reply. I bought another idler directly from my local Toyota dealer and sure enough, it pivots perfectly with zero resistance when torqued to spec. I hope this helps anyone reading this that runs into the same issue.
Hi, where are can find the bolts of the thermostat housing.
Nice video.
You're local Toyota or Lexus dealer. Or, you could simply go to a hardware store and buy some bolts. I don't know for sure what size and thread pitch those bolts are but I bet they are an M8 bolt with a 1.25 thread pitch. By looking at the video, you can take an educated guess on the length. But, your local dealer could get those bolts for you and probably wouldn't charge you that much.
Getting code P0335 after doing this job, and truck will not start. If wiring is the issue, any guides out there on how to repair it? Timing, crank shaft sensor plate positioning seem OK
If crankshaft position sensor is properly connected and the crankshaft position sensor plate doesn't have any missing teeth, I don't know what else you could check.
Thank you Timmy and crew! You guys make the best videos out there on this stuff. Using this to do a belt on a first gen Tundra. I found quite a bit of pitting on the mating surface for the water pump. I cleaned it up and smoothed it down as much as I could but wondering if you ever use FIPG on the pitted surface as I'm seeing others say they're doing. Of course I waited til after I put it on to ponder this so also wondering if I can take it back off and re-use the water pump gasket or if that's a one time thing?
I saw pitting on the block surface of my 3rd Gen 4runner and decided to use some FIPG as extra insurance. If the pitting was right where the gasket sealed, I spread some FIPG over the area to fill in the pitting and scraped it flush. You're only after a smooth block surface for the metal/rubber water pump gasket to seal properly. I wouldn't glob the stuff on.
Here's the correct FIPG to use. I was made for coolant applications. Toyota FIPG 1282B
#08826-0010 ebay.us/FD48Jr
You can safely reuse that water pump gasket.
Ok sounds like you aren't trying to get the gasket back on before it dries, you're letting it dry and kind of creating a new surface to mount to. I guess I'll bite the bullet and buy that incredibly expensive tube of goo... Thanks again Timmy!
@thumbnutz No, I put the FIPG on, smoothed it flush with the surface, removing any excess, and immediately put the water pump gasket over it. I just didn't want a ton of FIPG on the surface, just enough to fill the pitting in the block.
Thanks Tim for this awesome video (and Part 1) I'm planning to tackle this endeavor soon. I was asked by a friend if I will be replacing the valve seals as well. Is this a necessary maintenance addition to the timing belt? (180k miles) Thank you, sir. Keep the great videos coming.
Valve stem seals is a whole different animal. It has nothing to do with a timing belt job. You would only replace valve stem seals if you were burning oil like crazy and you suspected the valve stem seals as the culprit. I couldn't instruct you on how to replace valve stem seals because I've never done it. I've just heard of it and know why someone would do it. It would be a lot more work than a timing belt job.
Hey, I don't know if you take requests, but my fiance just got a 2009 Rav-4 with a 3.5-liter V6 and I trust you the most out of other mechanics on TH-cam...
Thanks Jon for the vote of confidence for our channel. As the saying goes, never say never, but I sort of think the chances of us working on a Rav 4 is probably pretty slim at this point. I guess if somebody hit us for help working on one we would consider helping them out.
@@TimmyTheToolman A 3.5L in general would be awesome!
@@jonp.6131 Well, maybe one day we'll turn some wrenches on one. I'm not against it.
Beast 😂
Belt seemed like it did not fight you to go on vs. the one you did on your 4runner install. Will have to go watch it again.
Watch Part 2 for the 3.4 liter timing belt job. Our mistake was getting the tensioner all the way bolted in before trying to get the belt on. I suggest you get the tensioner on after you get the belt in place.
Used the T marks on a 2002 Tundra and seemed to prevent jumping of camshafts but now that I'm putting the belt back on all of the slack is on the #2 pulley side of the crankshaft, not the tensioner pulley side where it seems like it should be. I could advance the crankshaft a little to take it out and move it over to the tensioner side but my marks are all lined up. Any advice?
As long as all 3 timing marks line up, you're good.
Thanks Timmy , finally got it all back together and all is well. I was never able to get the R side cam to align perfectly at TDC - off by about 3mm or so. I stressed about it for a while and finally decided that there was no way it was going to happen and that it must have been that way to begin with. Got it all back together and it seems to be running smooth as ever. In retrospect I would recommend anyone doing this take a picture of your TDC alignment before you take the old belt off. @@TimmyTheToolman
@@thumbnutz All the timing marks should line up when you're done. Sounds like you're a tooth off. But, the engine will run like that.
Thank u very much for this video....I learned a lot. I do have one question. I own a 2004 tundra 4.7 it won't start. I noticed that the timing marks on the camshafts don't line up. Is it possible the engine is broken? It died while the wife was driving.
Thank u for your help and you video
Did the belt break?
Nice video best one! What is that “T” for next to the timing marks?
The "T" ends up being the safe spot to turn the camshaft pulley timing marks to so the cams don't jump when you remove the timing belt. This is not documented in the factory service manuals, though.
On the water inlet FIPG (form in Place Gasket) I used some Permatex FIPG that said was good for water pumps, power steering etc, WELL IT ISN'T. I laid a good bead but maybe the pink antifreeze dissolves it I don't know but I had a leak that was a little hard to narrow down but when I separated the water inlet from the water pump it was almost all gone when
I took it off. Best to get the stuff Timmy talks about or get ready for a leak.
Thanks for sharing this information about the Permatex not working out.
Hey Tim! quick question, the Crank bolt is TTY, and i am replacing it. I have non VVTi engine, are the gam gear bolts TTY as well? I cant find this answer anywhere.
Also, i read somewhere that it is ok to use FIPG for the 10mm timing tensioner, but you said Toyota recommends thread lock. the FSM i read doesn't even mention the tensioner. what's your thoughts
The cam bolts aren't torque to yield. You can reuse them. As for the 10mm hex bolt for the tensioner pulley, I think FIPG would be fine. You just want some type of sealant on the threads because that bolt hole is a through bolt into the oil pump. Engine oil could leak through the threads.
Thank you for posting this video, it should be a Go To DIY resource for anyone doing the timing belt in the GX470. I am taking my time putting back together and I am at the point where I put the new belt back on. The cam and crank timing marks are on TDC. When I installed the tensioner, without pulling the pin, I turned the engine as you did. The timing marks on the cams and crank line up, but the L cam and R cam on the belt no longer line up. Is this correct or I broke something? Thanks in advance if you can provide any advice.
You didn't break anything. There will still be a little slack in the belt. After you pull the pin, I bet you will see the cam pulley marks line up with their respective timing marks after you rotate the engine another 2 full revolutions. If they don't, you need to redo it. You can slowly compress the tensioner in a vice. We show how to do it in this video: th-cam.com/video/mErd7xoBS9I/w-d-xo.html
If you have more questions, just ask.
@@TimmyTheToolman I appreciate the reply, just got it back together and it's running great, thank you and happy holidays!
@@barabhas You're very welcome. Glad you finally got it done. Happy Holidays back at ya!