Not to mention, topping it up every few days means you never really have to do an oil change because you're literally changing the oil every three months, lol.
Hey man, we just put a 460 big block board over to 500 and some cubic inches like 510 and some thousandths but we took your advice about the rear main seal and we floated the transmission and so far so good no leaks from the rear main seal!!! keep spreading the knowledge, Mr. Dave we need it!!!! I’m just pissed banks don’t make parts for smaller Fords!!!
So I work for a manufacture that makes radial shaft seals and just fyi that is called a cassette seal. Not just a single lip seal with a wiper like older engines run.
I'm currently looking for a water seal on a washer. Apparently the appliance parts store doesn't sell it. You have to buy the whole drum. Which is crazy! My bearing is making noise and would like to replace it, but the water seal is the issue here. Let me know if you could guide me in the right direction. Thank you for your help!
@marcosmendoza2516 Freudenburg made washer machine seals here in the states 20 years ago... But like many things that business went over seas 😞. Our division does automotive and aerospace. About the only thing I could suggest is getting the part number off the seal and finding a online store that will sell just that. I am not surprised that your local store doesn't sell just the seal North America likes to twist the screw of planned obsolescence to customers so you just buy new. Googling that part number might return a search for a store outside North America that will sell just parts... Funny other countries still repair in the depth we used to I guess throwing everything away instead of repair is part of the North American green agenda.
Unfortunately this is a game of less parasitic drag driven by the EPA. Those cassette seals offer less drag on the crankshaft equating to a better CAFE report. @@dixienormus5106
I have watched a lot of your videos and I am very impressed. You guys are very perfectional and you explain everything. Keep up the great work guys. 😊😊😊
I wouldn't trust the China made seal installers at all because I had to do a rear main seal for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 LS that was leaking and found out these China made seal installers tools are junk because they weren't machined correctly. I ended up buying a seal installer tool from Sac City Corvette who designed & built the very first GM LS rear main seal tool that they have a patent on that works 2 ways . 1 way aligns the rear main seal cover first to the back of the engine being GM didn't put alignment pins in the rear of the engine block where the rear cover goes on to self align this cover . Once this tool is used to align the cover with the gasket & bolted down and torqued to spec then the tool is flipped over so the new rear main seal can then be tapped in using the tool to install it into the rear main seal cover so it's perfectly aligned with the cover and the end of the crank shaft because if it's not perfectly aligned the lip of the seal will be either to high or low on the crankshaft snout as I call it and it will definitely start to leak oil past the new seal . The China made seal tools don't do this because they are cheap & arnt machined correctly to do this . If you buy 1 of those China made seal insulation tools 9 times out of 10 that rear main seal will leak because the rear cover isn't perfectly aligned to the rear of the engine block which means tearing everything down again to do it again which means a lot of extra work & down time & money wasted . I did mine like he shows here by pulling the transmission out as well as the exhaust Y pipe and of course the T case and drive shafts and with just me doing it on my friends lift . It took me a total of just under 16 hours to do it from start to finish with adding oil and filter and start up to look for leaks with the truck on the lift for 20 minutes and no leaks at all . I'm fortunate that I was a mechanic for years & had the tools to do this & a good friend with a lift in his shop but by me doing the work it literally saved me thousands of dollars on not bringing it to a shop or stealer ship to fix it . I did this 5 years ago and I just sold the truck to a friend of mine and it's still leak free to this day .
@Jdawg-ek8om might be. When it comes to specialized tools that only work on certain vehicles, you don't need name brands. It will only ever get used a handfull of times. It's just a seal installer. It's not like it's going to get used hard.
Our shop has installed that seal 3 times,didn't leak,without the tool,but the tool is a guarantee,he's right,rent one if it's available,preferably from the same parts store u buy the seal from.
Noted. thank you, for sharing your knowledge with us through your platform. Im currently in tech school for automotive technology. i find diesel engines very interesting and complicated at the same time
I remember buying the seal for a 6 6.9 powerstroke from Ford and buying a tool to install it with then doing the job. Firing it up 10 minutes later is leaking worse than the old one but bought one from Napa. Tapped it in with a ball peen hammer truck rim for 10 more years. No leaks
There is something to say about installing a seal with a ball peen hammer by hand.. it's hard to get it started but once you finally managed to get it to catch evenly all the way around you can carefully work your way around it to get the seal to the the seal stopping point... the alignment is something you can't feel with a tool and as precise as a tool is it is it is not as precise as the feel that you have in your hands ...with the alignment tool you can still damage the seal by catching an edge during installation and accidentally distorting the perimeter.. I'm just thinking that probably the best installation is to start it by hand and finish it with the tool.. but then again I have used the ball peen hammer all the way in and had no detrimental effects... that touch is something you develop over a lifetime of not having a tool for every seal .. I could be wrong because I'm sure I was wrong once before... but I could have been mistaken ... :)
I've installed roughly 100 of these with no special tools, one of the first ones I did leaked but thankfully it was on the front end. A good lesson in being careful
Its amazing how much easier having the right tool for the job makes things. A set of combination wrenches vs a crescent wrench. Huge A set of sockets and a ratchet vs combo wrenches. Huge Seal installation tool vs a block of wood and a hammer. Huge That said i dont ALWAYS go rent or buy the specialty tool because sometimes its just not that necessary and i have enough variety of tools that i have something that'll work most of the time. For something like holding the gears in my dirtbike engine to break a crank bolt loose i could buy the fancy expensive gear hlsing tool... Or I could jam a penny or a nickel in the gears and the tool cost me $0.01 or $0.05. and usually the nickels are reusable 😂 But with seals somewhere THIS hard to get to if you messed it up it's probably worth getting the specialty tool. I wouldnt want to use a normal seal driver set for this job
I’ve got to be straight with you. When I worked at the dealership techs would use installer and have a leak as soon as they got it back together. I’ve become very good at installing rear main seal with old fashion lip seal installer and brass drift. I feel like old school technique has been more successful for me. Although I really can’t comment on the rear main on a DuraMAX.
i'm not questioning you, I'm sincerely just curious: The mechanic used the actual OEM recommended tool to install the seal, and it STILL leaked? Why do you think that happened? Is it because they tried to put them in dry? Or maybe even because they put them in pre-lubed with the oil? What causes a brand new just-installed seal to leak anyway? And what did they do about it, did they just buy some other brand of seal, or a different installer tool?
@ You don’t oil every seal some you do some you don’t. In my opinion issues is you can’t verify the tip of the lip seal when installing it. Most occasions insulation goes well with tool but from my years of experience insulation has gone better with old school lip seal installation tool. There is always a small lip where seal installer butts up to crank which most like snags the seal. This is just my opinion as a 20 year professional mechanic. And just to throw it out there a Dorman seal for 2008 up Silverado requires their installation tool I removed the outer housing and just use the tapered piece that lines up to the crank that way I can 100% know the lip clears crank. One thing is for sure in the world of working on cars Guys will do what works best for them. Dave likes the installation tool but I would bet money he can install it without it.
Forte seal conditioner, I order from Europe works great. Prob fixes about 80% of the leaks I try it on. Just sweals seals and revives valve stem seals. Works wonders on valve seal oil burn
The seal is actually sealing against the sleeve to allow for crankshaft end float. You can install it if you insert the sleeve and the seal at the same time retaining the tolerance between them
Good news is this guys does not leak so much and does not do damage on engine. Even if it fails it only leaks little droplets of oil. Just keep on filling the oil that spills and that should give you time to save up for the repair
😊😊Old days not much different regardless of gas or diesel. We were fortunate enough to have a machine shop. Tooled up out of plastic or pvc. So it contacted in proper place. Seals need to be set properly. Yes a press fit is better, but a well skilled mechanic with a dead blow and pack seal with grease can do the job and know how to check it. Besides, if not a defective seal, you have other possible major issues. Crankshaft endplay or worn bearings, improper lubrication etc. All must be checked. otherwise it's earings on a pig. I've installed and torn out many seals in my younger days. Days it cost me more money than i made. You dont need 3000 dollars worth of tools to install a seal. A hunk of plastic, a lathe, dead blow and a touch, will suffice. or you can put a strap on back and make a press. My experience has been, if rear main seal has gone., you should look for other issues that caused it to fail. my opinion. pulling engine or tyranny aint fun nor cheap. Try doing it in a snowbank at 10 below. (not for seal, but clutch)
There are factors that cause a rear main seal to fail regardless of age….on this type it’s generally AGE, sometimes combined with climate, namely lots of heat and dry conditions. The rubber degrades, they leak. On the older wiper type it can be mileage / wear as well as age and climate. An engine that sits a lot without running over a long period of time is also very likely to have seal issues. Basically If a one piece rear main fails in less than 8-10 years or 75k miles, I’ll look for a reason why. If it’s been longer or more miles than that and there are no obvious reasons it may have failed like lots of idle time, very high miles / hours on the engine over all, very low miles vs years of age on the vehicle, or the vehicle having a manual transmission (automatics are a lot less hard on the thrust surfaces), then ill just clean up the sealing surface or install a speedy sleeve (if needed) and install the new seal. If I do have reason to suspect wear is an issue, I’ll check crankshaft end play and pull a few main caps to check for excessive main bearing wear letting the crank ride low…..but on many modern engines it is enough trouble to do it that it’s not worth doing in every single case of a leaky rear main.
@J.R.in_WV absolutely agree. Dormant is killer on seals, or anything rubber. Also people too.😂. Idle. As well. Remember back in 70s-80s. Police cruisers using a quart.of oil a. Day within a month of. Being brand new. Why when you buy. A retired cruiser at auction you double or triple the milage as wear on engine. Because of idle times.
Love the content but we have been doing this for years Dave with out your special tools. Shit happens but it can be done without a full service shop. I promise you I have changed many seals laying on gravel
My boss bought the tool to install a rear main seal in Chevy's, I did it without the tool and it didn't leak and I surprised my boss. He kept the tool in case the other guys had to do the job and still didn't trust it wouldn't leak, it's been a year and a half.
And I’d come work for you so would one of my sons but we live in Virginia!! Utah gives me nightmares cause I live there for 2 1/2 years when I was 17 and worked on a cattle farm!!! and people were just where I was at!!!! but you give me hope for Utah people!!!
Keep seeing all the channels show seal installers. Meanwhile I’ve been wrenching 10 years and using a hammer and an extension or wooden block to install them and have only had 1 leak because I installed it inside out. Done about 40.
Its all about experience and making sure the seal is installed square in the housing. Been tapping seals in with a small hammer and 1/4 inch extension. Ill drive out to daves and install that the same way and will bet every tool I own that it won't leak. Yes proper tools are always good but experience and know how trumps all.
@@averagejoe6084 precisely. Specialty tools have their place and certain projects or fixes absolutely depend on them. But specialty tools aren't always necessary. Especially if it's something easy enough to figure out on your own and saves you a few hundred bucks.
Thankyou Dave for all the hard work you do. a GM truck needs repair? That is rare. Usually your reels are featuring destroyed Ford power strokes. I have a mini Duramax and never had a problem yet.
BMW actually uses the same installer but for the front crank seal, the rear one we use a tapered cone that fits onto the crank and just slide the seal onto it
Caterpillar engines same way. 3500 series is my favorite because front and rear seals use same tool group. The seals are different because of the difference in rotation front to rear.
I did a Mazda 2.3L Turbo main seal without a tool - just make sure the lip does not turn in on itself. You have to pay close attention without a tool, but it is possible.
I've seen them where you put the metal part in just so you can get over the crankshaft without bending the seal backwards. Check on the big rigs . that's weird it requires a speedy sleeve.
@@bluedogsalvage5246that's a fact! The seals on any diesel from around 08 or newer will never last if not installed with the proper tools! I bought the tools specific for my diesel and they have a home in the tool box of that truck. Way too much work to have to repeat the job .
@alvinhyman6838 I know, I have a fleet of trucks and my own service dept. Once upon a time I put one of the cassette seals in by using a improvised driver to seat the wear ring on the crank, the seat to middle and outer seal over the ring and into the flywheel housing. Not only did it not last, it failed on start up. Everyone I've ever known who cheaps out on replacing these seals without using the seating tool never made it more than a few minutes before failure. One piece rubber coated metal seals are pretty forgiving to improvised installs as long as they aren't bent/ deformed or the rubber coating isn't torn
Years ago, I worked with two guys who came in the parking lot at 3:30 am and sat in their cars, idling their trucks, until it was time for their shift at 7:00 am. They did that every day of the week, 6 days a week. In the winter, they idled them to stay warm. In the summer they idled them to keep their air conditioner running. Trucks are not made to idle 18 hours a week.
Colleague, some seal and hose manufacturers (i.e. Gates) have upgraded O.E.M. replacement that are of better design and quality than the OEM. Example, I always mic the dim of the shafts to seal, they will accommodate for worn surface, also they offer double inner and outer circumference springs and double silicone lips. No more oil passing by.
I've seen someone use a 4' diameter drain pipe ehd cap & they have glued some smaller diameter pipe inside of it so that it hits on the metal inner part As well as the rubber part at the same time ! I thought that it was a good idea !
Well I've had a fleet of GM vehicles over the years and I've never had to replace a rear main seal on a single one of them. And Trust me, they get driven in the ground. Had a 460 Ford that did decades ago.
@@ashes2ashes863 curious- how many vehicles? I have access to fleet telematics and PMs for 60% of government agencies in the country, big oil, major transits- rear mains are much more common with GM compared to Ford or Ram
I’d like to see a video on how you guys torque those flex plate bolts down because man they suck. I use a 6 foot cheater bar for the last 60° and man am I sore in the morning
Ive installed many rear and front main seals on mercedes OM 473s and MAN D2862 engines without the special $3000 tool for mercedes or the $2000 tool from MAN and havent had one leak yet. The secret to installing them is to do it how porcupines make love......very very carefully 😂
I did the front input shaft seal on my 97 F350 in my driveway by myself. It took me 8 hrs and the seal was $12. Hardest part was pressing the heavy ass converter back on from laying position and a couple ground and bell housing bolts.
On GM gas engines I have to say, it may suck (not for sickos like myself who Love have specialty tools😋🤦🏻♂️) spending the money on a Kent Moore (GM stuff) tool or high quality aftermarket but I personally have Never had issues when resealing an engine. It's especially important to have the right tools for Properly sealing up Gen III/IV LS engines (front cover, rear cover & oil pan alignment, not to mention the specific seal installers on those engines & the newer Gen IV front cover alignment tool- different for the cam adv & retard capabilities of Gen IV's). If you do this for a living though this stuff isn't new, at least on GM stuff. Even back when the updated SBC (w/one piece rear main, roller valve train, center bolt valve cover & relocated timing tab) came out in the '87 year model vehicles they also had front crank seal & rear main seal installer tools. Good stuff to help do the job once & correctly 👍
“You have to have the correct seal installer.“ Very true, but you have to have the correct seal installer using the correct seal installer. It’s a vicious circle.
Could you possibly make a contraption to test rear main seal leakage before putting on the transmission? I mean if you do enough of these, it should need worth it.
Why can't you with a machine shop? Make an aluminum one to push those seals in? Why would you make it out of steel?Alumini's just as strong as metal steel is
Love watching your videos. Please help me save a dime? I know duramax is not a 5.3 but can you give me an idea where my slow oil leak on my 5.3 might be coming from? 1 shop said it could be oil cooler lines or rear main seal leaking but they wont know unless they drop the transmission. One video ive seen say it could be the cam position sensor. I dont want to spend 2, 3 grand for them to figure out where the oil is leaking in my truck.
There is tons of 5.3 content in LS forums. Videos are for looking, forums are for discussion because they can go in depth and the threads are preserved. Wise move is clean the engine bay and engine, park over large clean cardboard then note stain on cardboard and use a BRIGHT flashlight to hunt the leak on a clean engine. Auto stores sell UV dye which shows up under a UV light. It can be used with oil or coolant. BTW you can see up into the torque converter area if you remove the bottom cover so there should be no need to drop the transmission for inspection.
i use a cut pvc pipe with the cap to smash em in. its the exact same dimensions. theres other youtube videos to install it they way i talk about it. ive also installed them with flat hardened steel sticks. but this guy wants it his way so do it his way. its easier if you dont have the experience.
Soooo Dave’s just going to ramble on about a seal and how to install it meanwhile in the background they’re getting ready to set up the red solo cups for a mean game of beer pong! Man,!! It must be great working for Dave!
Hey, Little Dipper, let the grown folks have a little fun. Go back to your mammas basement and play your games. It’s concerning and very sad how a simple joke can set off a child. Seek help. You obviously need it.
If you Deform ( Dent ) the seals metal housing in any way, It will put pressure and Deform the Lip of the seal, It will Leak for shure, Make shure its made out of that ORANGE VITON RUBBER, It's the only material that will last and not harden and Crack And Leak, You have to use the install tool to press evenly on that seal, to get it right, Use carb cleaner with paper towels to remove any dirt on the crank and housing, Follow the instructions carefully, Good Luck with your Install 🥴
I don't have a shop, nor do I work in a shop. I do most of my own work at home in my own garage and on some of my family and friends' cars. That specifically is my own move. I buy tools that I may only use once and cost hundreds of dollars.
I just let them leak, along with oil pans. Helps keep the bottom of the truck from rusting.
If the frame is rust free that’s a no reseal for me
Gm and fords really design their trucks that bad😂
Not to mention, topping it up every few days means you never really have to do an oil change because you're literally changing the oil every three months, lol.
The cost of filling up the oil that leaks out during the life of the vehicle won't come close to what a shop will charge to do a rear main seal job.
My buddy accord eats 1.5 quarts every 5k miles since it had 60k miles. Perfect, did I stutter, perfect vehicle
Hey man, we just put a 460 big block board over to 500 and some cubic inches like 510 and some thousandths but we took your advice about the rear main seal and we floated the transmission and so far so good no leaks from the rear main seal!!! keep spreading the knowledge, Mr. Dave we need it!!!! I’m just pissed banks don’t make parts for smaller Fords!!!
So I work for a manufacture that makes radial shaft seals and just fyi that is called a cassette seal. Not just a single lip seal with a wiper like older engines run.
I'm currently looking for a water seal on a washer. Apparently the appliance parts store doesn't sell it. You have to buy the whole drum. Which is crazy! My bearing is making noise and would like to replace it, but the water seal is the issue here. Let me know if you could guide me in the right direction. Thank you for your help!
@marcosmendoza2516 Freudenburg made washer machine seals here in the states 20 years ago... But like many things that business went over seas 😞. Our division does automotive and aerospace. About the only thing I could suggest is getting the part number off the seal and finding a online store that will sell just that. I am not surprised that your local store doesn't sell just the seal North America likes to twist the screw of planned obsolescence to customers so you just buy new. Googling that part number might return a search for a store outside North America that will sell just parts... Funny other countries still repair in the depth we used to I guess throwing everything away instead of repair is part of the North American green agenda.
The single wiper seal is a much better seal. The new style barely lasts 100k miles.
Unfortunately this is a game of less parasitic drag driven by the EPA. Those cassette seals offer less drag on the crankshaft equating to a better CAFE report. @@dixienormus5106
@@marcosmendoza2516 how are you going to reseal the drum together after you cut it open ?
100%!!! I know a guy who did a rebuild on his Duramax. First test drive, it pissed out a gang of oil! it was a mess! He had to get towed back.
I don't work on a whole lot of diesels (engine and tranny especially) as a mechanic, i love this channel. Looks like you treat your guys right, too.
I have watched a lot of your videos and I am very impressed. You guys are very perfectional and you explain everything. Keep up the great work guys. 😊😊😊
Perfectional?
@@MMarciniak1Well Americans love changing English words.
I'VE USED THEM AND THEY ARE EASY TO USE AND WORK VERY WELL.
Thanks for letting me know that. All this time I have been pushing those in with my fingers. My fingers are looking gnarly.
Amazon has a duramax install tool for $40. Extra $10 gets the front seal tool. Good reviews. China keeps working on vehicles affordable.
I wouldn't trust the China made seal installers at all because I had to do a rear main seal for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado with the 5.3 LS that was leaking and found out these China made seal installers tools are junk because they weren't machined correctly. I ended up buying a seal installer tool from Sac City Corvette who designed & built the very first GM LS rear main seal tool that they have a patent on that works 2 ways . 1 way aligns the rear main seal cover first to the back of the engine being GM didn't put alignment pins in the rear of the engine block where the rear cover goes on to self align this cover . Once this tool is used to align the cover with the gasket & bolted down and torqued to spec then the tool is flipped over so the new rear main seal can then be tapped in using the tool to install it into the rear main seal cover so it's perfectly aligned with the cover and the end of the crank shaft because if it's not perfectly aligned the lip of the seal will be either to high or low on the crankshaft snout as I call it and it will definitely start to leak oil past the new seal . The China made seal tools don't do this because they are cheap & arnt machined correctly to do this . If you buy 1 of those China made seal insulation tools 9 times out of 10 that rear main seal will leak because the rear cover isn't perfectly aligned to the rear of the engine block which means tearing everything down again to do it again which means a lot of extra work & down time & money wasted . I did mine like he shows here by pulling the transmission out as well as the exhaust Y pipe and of course the T case and drive shafts and with just me doing it on my friends lift . It took me a total of just under 16 hours to do it from start to finish with adding oil and filter and start up to look for leaks with the truck on the lift for 20 minutes and no leaks at all . I'm fortunate that I was a mechanic for years & had the tools to do this & a good friend with a lift in his shop but by me doing the work it literally saved me thousands of dollars on not bringing it to a shop or stealer ship to fix it . I did this 5 years ago and I just sold the truck to a friend of mine and it's still leak free to this day .
Praise slave labor.
That is cheaper than my machinest.😮 I do have a collection for different types of motors. I just measure. I also have an aluminum one.😮
It's probably absolute junk
@Jdawg-ek8om might be. When it comes to specialized tools that only work on certain vehicles, you don't need name brands. It will only ever get used a handfull of times. It's just a seal installer. It's not like it's going to get used hard.
Now that we got that seal replaced, we can go let the customer know he needs a new engine.
You know what fixes Rear main seal leaks? Daves secret sauce!
😂😂😂
@@firingallcylinders2949 Don't tell everybody!🤣
that IS a possibility ! Depending on the mileage, a small claims application may help.
Our shop has installed that seal 3 times,didn't leak,without the tool,but the tool is a guarantee,he's right,rent one if it's available,preferably from the same parts store u buy the seal from.
AT-205 reseal works miracles on rubber gaskets and rear main seals etc
Noted. thank you, for sharing your knowledge with us through your platform. Im currently in tech school for automotive technology. i find diesel engines very interesting and complicated at the same time
I remember buying the seal for a 6 6.9 powerstroke from Ford and buying a tool to install it with then doing the job. Firing it up 10 minutes later is leaking worse than the old one but bought one from Napa. Tapped it in with a ball peen hammer truck rim for 10 more years. No leaks
Never heard of a 6.9 powerstroke. Do you mean idi ?
There is something to say about installing a seal with a ball peen hammer by hand.. it's hard to get it started but once you finally managed to get it to catch evenly all the way around you can carefully work your way around it to get the seal to the the seal stopping point... the alignment is something you can't feel with a tool and as precise as a tool is it is it is not as precise as the feel that you have in your hands ...with the alignment tool you can still damage the seal by catching an edge during installation and accidentally distorting the perimeter.. I'm just thinking that probably the best installation is to start it by hand and finish it with the tool.. but then again I have used the ball peen hammer all the way in and had no detrimental effects... that touch is something you develop over a lifetime of not having a tool for every seal .. I could be wrong because I'm sure I was wrong once before... but I could have been mistaken ... :)
I've installed roughly 100 of these with no special tools, one of the first ones I did leaked but thankfully it was on the front end. A good lesson in being careful
The classic duramax Cummins 6.9L powerstroke big block 420
@@samtime3803I've done a few myself and I always use the old seal or just tap it in with a hammer. Only had 2 leak out of a whole lot.
You said ENGINE this time Dave!!! You’re making progress!!
Truly takes the fun out of vehicle ownership. Please bring back the 1970/80s
Its amazing how much easier having the right tool for the job makes things.
A set of combination wrenches vs a crescent wrench. Huge
A set of sockets and a ratchet vs combo wrenches. Huge
Seal installation tool vs a block of wood and a hammer. Huge
That said i dont ALWAYS go rent or buy the specialty tool because sometimes its just not that necessary and i have enough variety of tools that i have something that'll work most of the time. For something like holding the gears in my dirtbike engine to break a crank bolt loose i could buy the fancy expensive gear hlsing tool... Or I could jam a penny or a nickel in the gears and the tool cost me $0.01 or $0.05. and usually the nickels are reusable 😂
But with seals somewhere THIS hard to get to if you messed it up it's probably worth getting the specialty tool. I wouldnt want to use a normal seal driver set for this job
I’ve got to be straight with you. When I worked at the dealership techs would use installer and have a leak as soon as they got it back together. I’ve become very good at installing rear main seal with old fashion lip seal installer and brass drift. I feel like old school technique has been more successful for me. Although I really can’t comment on the rear main on a DuraMAX.
i'm not questioning you, I'm sincerely just curious: The mechanic used the actual OEM recommended tool to install the seal, and it STILL leaked? Why do you think that happened? Is it because they tried to put them in dry? Or maybe even because they put them in pre-lubed with the oil?
What causes a brand new just-installed seal to leak anyway? And what did they do about it, did they just buy some other brand of seal, or a different installer tool?
@
You don’t oil every seal some you do some you don’t. In my opinion issues is you can’t verify the tip of the lip seal when installing it. Most occasions insulation goes well with tool but from my years of experience insulation has gone better with old school lip seal installation tool. There is always a small lip where seal installer butts up to crank which most like snags the seal. This is just my opinion as a 20 year professional mechanic. And just to throw it out there a Dorman seal for 2008 up Silverado requires their installation tool I removed the outer housing and just use the tapered piece that lines up to the crank that way I can 100% know the lip clears crank.
One thing is for sure in the world of working on cars Guys will do what works best for them. Dave likes the installation tool but I would bet money he can install it without it.
@@diagnosticdave1225Thanks for sharing your experience.
I've heard that any lube on a new Teflon seal and you will have a leak
Almost like a speedy sleave, I like 2 pc. Seals for hubs, pinions and so on. That's just from my experience. Everyone have a great Holiday!👍🏻🇺🇲
Forte seal conditioner, I order from Europe works great. Prob fixes about 80% of the leaks I try it on. Just sweals seals and revives valve stem seals. Works wonders on valve seal oil burn
The seal is actually sealing against the sleeve to allow for crankshaft end float. You can install it if you insert the sleeve and the seal at the same time retaining the tolerance between them
I install them with rubber mallets every time. Never had an issue even once.
Good news is this guys does not leak so much and does not do damage on engine. Even if it fails it only leaks little droplets of oil. Just keep on filling the oil that spills and that should give you time to save up for the repair
Imagine the stains on your garage or driveway,pressure washing doesn t get rid of oil.
Having a visitor with an oil leaking car is awful.
Chassis lubrication option. It's built in rust prevention
😊😊Old days not much different regardless of gas or diesel.
We were fortunate enough to have a machine shop.
Tooled up out of plastic or pvc.
So it contacted in proper place.
Seals need to be set properly.
Yes a press fit is better, but a well skilled mechanic with a dead blow and pack seal with grease can do the job and know how to check it.
Besides, if not a defective seal, you have other possible major issues.
Crankshaft endplay or worn bearings, improper lubrication etc.
All must be checked. otherwise it's earings on a pig.
I've installed and torn out many seals in my younger days.
Days it cost me more money than i made.
You dont need 3000 dollars worth of tools to install a seal.
A hunk of plastic, a lathe, dead blow and a touch, will suffice.
or you can put a strap on back and make a press.
My experience has been, if rear main seal has gone., you should look for other issues that caused it to fail.
my opinion.
pulling engine or tyranny aint fun nor cheap. Try doing it in a snowbank at 10 below. (not for seal, but clutch)
There are factors that cause a rear main seal to fail regardless of age….on this type it’s generally AGE, sometimes combined with climate, namely lots of heat and dry conditions. The rubber degrades, they leak. On the older wiper type it can be mileage / wear as well as age and climate. An engine that sits a lot without running over a long period of time is also very likely to have seal issues. Basically If a one piece rear main fails in less than 8-10 years or 75k miles, I’ll look for a reason why. If it’s been longer or more miles than that and there are no obvious reasons it may have failed like lots of idle time, very high miles / hours on the engine over all, very low miles vs years of age on the vehicle, or the vehicle having a manual transmission (automatics are a lot less hard on the thrust surfaces), then ill just clean up the sealing surface or install a speedy sleeve (if needed) and install the new seal. If I do have reason to suspect wear is an issue, I’ll check crankshaft end play and pull a few main caps to check for excessive main bearing wear letting the crank ride low…..but on many modern engines it is enough trouble to do it that it’s not worth doing in every single case of a leaky rear main.
@J.R.in_WV absolutely agree.
Dormant is killer on seals, or anything rubber.
Also people too.😂.
Idle. As well.
Remember back in 70s-80s. Police cruisers using a quart.of oil a. Day within a month of. Being brand new.
Why when you buy. A retired cruiser at auction you double or triple the milage as wear on engine.
Because of idle times.
Big Dave and family, Merry Christmas 🎄
Love the content but we have been doing this for years Dave with out your special tools. Shit happens but it can be done without a full service shop. I promise you I have changed many seals laying on gravel
This video must have been made after the beer pong tournament.
I’m glad someone else had the same idea 😅
Its easy to keep track of the bolts you remove with solo cups
🍻
My boss bought the tool to install a rear main seal in Chevy's, I did it without the tool and it didn't leak and I surprised my boss. He kept the tool in case the other guys had to do the job and still didn't trust it wouldn't leak, it's been a year and a half.
Taco Bell, causes rear main seal leaks as well. 🤷
It's the sauce
@ 🌶️
Lol dont talk about my company like that 😂😂
@@ianconley6673 🥴
Much easier to seal that problem, no need for special tools!
And I’d come work for you so would one of my sons but we live in Virginia!! Utah gives me nightmares cause I live there for 2 1/2 years when I was 17 and worked on a cattle farm!!! and people were just where I was at!!!! but you give me hope for Utah people!!!
Keep seeing all the channels show seal installers. Meanwhile I’ve been wrenching 10 years and using a hammer and an extension or wooden block to install them and have only had 1 leak because I installed it inside out. Done about 40.
Same. Been wrenching for a bit over 20 years and I've always installed front/rear seals by hand. Never had a single leak.
Its all about experience and making sure the seal is installed square in the housing. Been tapping seals in with a small hammer and 1/4 inch extension. Ill drive out to daves and install that the same way and will bet every tool I own that it won't leak. Yes proper tools are always good but experience and know how trumps all.
@@averagejoe6084 precisely. Specialty tools have their place and certain projects or fixes absolutely depend on them. But specialty tools aren't always necessary. Especially if it's something easy enough to figure out on your own and saves you a few hundred bucks.
So did I lol 😂
I knew I'd find this comment when I saw this $200 specialty tool. I could also make that same tool for cheap out of some scrap metal
Man my GMC pickup leaked so bad I decided to never buy another! Don’t get me started on the electrical. I love the engines but that’s it.
I did the same thing with Dodge.
Excellent advice Dave
Thankyou Dave for all the hard work you do. a GM truck needs repair? That is rare. Usually your reels are featuring destroyed Ford power strokes. I have a mini Duramax and never had a problem yet.
Been a mechanic and engine builder for 34 years. You don't need a damn plastic sleeve to put in a lip seal.
It’s amazing how a $35 part will end up costing you two to $3000 get it fixed
Blame the engineer who designed it
Love this mans knowledge
BMW actually uses the same installer but for the front crank seal, the rear one we use a tapered cone that fits onto the crank and just slide the seal onto it
Caterpillar engines same way. 3500 series is my favorite because front and rear seals use same tool group. The seals are different because of the difference in rotation front to rear.
Home depot sells all sizes of pvc for flush installation
Sockets are already in stock at most garages, but this is genius for the bigger ones 😅
Just Like The Big Caterpillar Engines...
With The Wear Band Riding Against Seal..
AND
The Crank Bolts Used To Hold Down Screw In Seal Setter.
I did a Mazda 2.3L Turbo main seal without a tool - just make sure the lip does not turn in on itself. You have to pay close attention without a tool, but it is possible.
I hope everyone has a great Christmas and New Years!👍🏻🇺🇲
Thanks. You too.
Just commenting merry Christmas on videos from channels I like
Why i love my lifted XJ,jeep 4.0 just pull the pan
I've seen them where you put the metal part in just so you can get over the crankshaft without bending the seal backwards. Check on the big rigs . that's weird it requires a speedy sleeve.
Ive never used seal installers on any type of seal. They've never leaked due to installation.
You've never installed a 3 piece seal, aka a cassette, like most diesels use.
@@bluedogsalvage5246that's a fact! The seals on any diesel from around 08 or newer will never last if not installed with the proper tools!
I bought the tools specific for my diesel and they have a home in the tool box of that truck. Way too much work to have to repeat the job .
@alvinhyman6838 I know, I have a fleet of trucks and my own service dept. Once upon a time I put one of the cassette seals in by using a improvised driver to seat the wear ring on the crank, the seat to middle and outer seal over the ring and into the flywheel housing. Not only did it not last, it failed on start up. Everyone I've ever known who cheaps out on replacing these seals without using the seating tool never made it more than a few minutes before failure.
One piece rubber coated metal seals are pretty forgiving to improvised installs as long as they aren't bent/ deformed or the rubber coating isn't torn
These Expensive Diesel Repairs indicate the best engine option for a new diesel pickup is a Large CID Gasoline V8
And what's nice if you already have a diesel truck registration just about any gasoline engine will pass the diesel smog test!!!
Shop guys all say they could make that in an hour, thanks for showing me the design
Blue devil rear main seal fix It works
Casette seal is best ever. Isuzu uses those in many engines
Was it idling too long?
😂
had to, you can tell it was by the way that it is
Years ago, I worked with two guys who came in the parking lot at 3:30 am and sat in their cars, idling their trucks, until it was time for their shift at 7:00 am. They did that every day of the week, 6 days a week. In the winter, they idled them to stay warm. In the summer they idled them to keep their air conditioner running. Trucks are not made to idle 18 hours a week.
Don't forget that speedy sleeves can fix many oil leaks if there is a groove worn in the cranksbaft or seal running surface.🤚
Colleague, some seal and hose manufacturers (i.e. Gates) have upgraded O.E.M. replacement that are of better design and quality than the OEM. Example, I always mic the dim of the shafts to seal, they will accommodate for worn surface, also they offer double inner and outer circumference springs and double silicone lips. No more oil passing by.
I've seen someone use a 4' diameter drain pipe ehd cap & they have glued some smaller diameter pipe inside of it so that it hits on the metal inner part As well as the rubber part at the same time !
I thought that it was a good idea !
Much love Mr Dave
GM has had problems with rear main leaks off the factory floor across many models for decades
Well I've had a fleet of GM vehicles over the years and I've never had to replace a rear main seal on a single one of them. And Trust me, they get driven in the ground. Had a 460 Ford that did decades ago.
@ashes2ashes863 the tech you were taking it to didn't want to deal with it lmao
@@ashes2ashes863 curious- how many vehicles? I have access to fleet telematics and PMs for 60% of government agencies in the country, big oil, major transits- rear mains are much more common with GM compared to Ford or Ram
I’d like to see a video on how you guys torque those flex plate bolts down because man they suck. I use a 6 foot cheater bar for the last 60° and man am I sore in the morning
Ive installed many rear and front main seals on mercedes OM 473s and MAN D2862 engines without the special $3000 tool for mercedes or the $2000 tool from MAN and havent had one leak yet. The secret to installing them is to do it how porcupines make love......very very carefully 😂
So you can't do the good old large farm socket and drive it in with a large rubber/plastic mallet?
Just replaced mine myself. Doesn’t leak. No special tools needed just a $100 ratchet set from Lowe’s. And a lot of cussing.
But it wasn’t a deseal
Had to have mine replaced on my car. $15 part and $600 in labor.
that sounds surprisingly low, I would have thought it'd be 1200 or 1500 $
@@hockey7438 depends on area I guess, georgia its about 800 for rear main and 1600 for an engine swap
This was like 8 years ago in Canada.
I did the front input shaft seal on my 97 F350 in my driveway by myself. It took me 8 hrs and the seal was $12. Hardest part was pressing the heavy ass converter back on from laying position and a couple ground and bell housing bolts.
This seal costs $20K. The plus side is you get a free engine to go with it.
👀
Pvc cap worked great on my 96 4.9l haha
I put these on the engines at the Cummins plant. They're a pain to install too.
So it's like a bearing race inside the seal, wow. Wonder if they make a seal like this for old V8,s?
On GM gas engines I have to say, it may suck (not for sickos like myself who Love have specialty tools😋🤦🏻♂️) spending the money on a Kent Moore (GM stuff) tool or high quality aftermarket but I personally have Never had issues when resealing an engine.
It's especially important to have the right tools for Properly sealing up Gen III/IV LS engines (front cover, rear cover & oil pan alignment, not to mention the specific seal installers on those engines & the newer Gen IV front cover alignment tool- different for the cam adv & retard capabilities of Gen IV's).
If you do this for a living though this stuff isn't new, at least on GM stuff. Even back when the updated SBC (w/one piece rear main, roller valve train, center bolt valve cover & relocated timing tab) came out in the '87 year model vehicles they also had front crank seal & rear main seal installer tools.
Good stuff to help do the job once & correctly 👍
Dirty Dave at it again.
I would like to see videos Silverados or Sierra with AFM issues.
Merry Christmas ⛄🎄
“You have to have the correct seal installer.“ Very true, but you have to have the correct seal installer using the correct seal installer. It’s a vicious circle.
Learnt something about gas engines thnx
Proper tool......... A 🔨 . Wonder how many wreck seals
Could you possibly make a contraption to test rear main seal leakage before putting on the transmission? I mean if you do enough of these, it should need worth it.
Dave’s got the toooools, Dave’s got the tools, Dave’s got the tools, yea! Dave’s got the tools
Best money you'll ever earn, $40 outlay in parts, $350 labour... Money for jam....freeze plugs are similar......
Wow. No other diesel shop has that tool. So if you have a real main seal leak you have to go to Utah to his shop and get it repaired
I’d definitely take my car to this shop
You mean definitely. Why so defiant?
@ I’m used to auto correct, fixing errors. Nice catch
idling too long again gets me every time I SEE him now
How many times I'd been told my car had a rear main seal leak but it turned out to be something else?
This video comes up right after I notice mine leaking 😂
Why can't you with a machine shop? Make an aluminum one to push those seals in? Why would you make it out of steel?Alumini's just as strong as metal steel is
No, it's not. It's softer, with a lower tensile and compressive strength.
I got a ford windstar in 2020 it was a 2001wirh 55k on it had sat forever rear main seal leaking I just filled it up every other week
Love watching your videos. Please help me save a dime? I know duramax is not a 5.3 but can you give me an idea where my slow oil leak on my 5.3 might be coming from? 1 shop said it could be oil cooler lines or rear main seal leaking but they wont know unless they drop the transmission. One video ive seen say it could be the cam position sensor. I dont want to spend 2, 3 grand for them to figure out where the oil is leaking in my truck.
There is tons of 5.3 content in LS forums. Videos are for looking, forums are for discussion because they can go in depth and the threads are preserved. Wise move is clean the engine bay and engine, park over large clean cardboard then note stain on cardboard and use a BRIGHT flashlight to hunt the leak on a clean engine. Auto stores sell UV dye which shows up under a UV light. It can be used with oil or coolant.
BTW you can see up into the torque converter area if you remove the bottom cover so there should be no need to drop the transmission for inspection.
Look at all those red solo cups, someones off the wagon.
They're made like a big rig spindle wheel Hub seal AKA cassette seal
i use a cut pvc pipe with the cap to smash em in. its the exact same dimensions. theres other youtube videos to install it they way i talk about it. ive also installed them with flat hardened steel sticks. but this guy wants it his way so do it his way. its easier if you dont have the experience.
Had a holden rodeo with a leak in the rear seal. Replace it every 2-4 years was cheap repair
Soooo Dave’s just going to ramble on about a seal and how to install it meanwhile in the background they’re getting ready to set up the red solo cups for a mean game of beer pong!
Man,!! It must be great working for Dave!
They use the red cups to put nuts and bolts in when doing a job. Grow up.
@@BigDipper79 I use a muffin tray!
Hey, Little Dipper, let the grown folks have a little fun. Go back to your mammas basement and play your games. It’s concerning and very sad how a simple joke can set off a child. Seek help. You obviously need it.
Mechanic should be making 100 dollars an hour ❤❤
If you Deform ( Dent ) the seals metal housing in any way, It will put pressure and Deform the Lip of the seal, It will Leak for shure, Make shure its made out of that ORANGE VITON RUBBER, It's the only material that will last and not harden and Crack And Leak, You have to use the install tool to press evenly on that seal, to get it right, Use carb cleaner with paper towels to remove any dirt on the crank and housing, Follow the instructions carefully, Good Luck with your Install 🥴
Engineers get a bonus if they make things need a special tool
Would never have a problem If they use Dave's secret sauce 😅
I don't have a shop, nor do I work in a shop. I do most of my own work at home in my own garage and on some of my family and friends' cars. That specifically is my own move. I buy tools that I may only use once and cost hundreds of dollars.
Look how clean the area there working on u know they steam clean it before they started working on it thats all high class no bs shop .
Looks just like the ford 6.7 seal installer. Be curious if it actually works both ways
Lots of people have done that seal without special tools and never had a problem. I wouldn’t say it is required.
What are you guys having beer pong tournaments on the regular at the ole shop?
What’s with the obscene amount of red solo cups everywhere ??…DAVE!!!😂
I've installed several without any leaks using the old seal to press in the new seal. Lucky, I guess. 🤷
I use a plastic disposable cup,cut open to assist the lip dpesnt roll over...if the seal doesnt come with installer...