Fox Step-Cast Fork Oil Change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows how to change the oil in a Fox Step-Cast mountain bike fork. This is an intermediate to advanced service procedure. Plan for about 1.5 hours the first time you do this.
Note: you should wear rubber gloves when doing this procedure. Due to having to operate a camera and washing my hands very frequently, I did not wear gloves in this video.
Great video, it helped a lot!
I would only suggest not putting the rebound know back on the fork if you already found your right setting. The screw that holds it is super fragile and I had to replace the whole rebound adjust needle.
Thanks for sharing this video. I just got done with this service. I also replaced the fork seals while I was at it. Trickiest part for me was getting the new fluid into the shock tube hole. On the first attempt I just flooded around the hole and had to drain it and start over. I trimmed the wings off the syringe and that made placing it easier. Yesterday, I did the rear shock service.
Great stuff, really makes me feel like I neglect my bike. I have only had the suspension serviced once since 2010. I just love riding!! I know that is no excuse and I have other bikes too. So thanks for a kick in the butt and the remainder to get things back on track. Live-Life-Loud, my friend!!
Don't feel bad as you are not alone, I need to get on this too. Take care
Thumbs up on helping us out with these instructional videos even though I don't own a step cast fork yet. I find it ironic that your instructional videos are clearer and easier to follow than those created by the manufacturer (when they exist at all).
+robwas it's weird that Fox has never put a video out on how to work on the Step cast.
I've watched a lot of other videos on servicing Step Cast forks during my DIY research. No one ever mentioned the 3 cc's that go in the positive air chamber above the piston. The oil volume charts that Fox provide are not the easiest to decipher and I would have missed it too had it not been for your presentation. Kudos (and you got another subscriber)
I've been waiting patiently for this one. I believe this is the first video on youtube that shows servicing the SC fork. Looking forward to the full rebuild now. Thanks for yet another quality video.
+Soban Bhatti I know it! I looked on TH-cam to see if there were any out there and couldn't find any. Not even service videos on Fox's website.
I changed the oil and foam rings of my fork following the video (thanks!). In may case the trickiest part was when I tried to loosen the bolt inside the rebound knob, I couldn't do it properly because the bolt was stripped, so I had to break it to be able to remove the rebound knob. Now if I want to change the rebound setting I have to use some fine pliers ...
Like the Craftsman socket wrench set from the '80s. Still got mine as well.
Great tutorial, thanks, but I think you should pour 10ml instead of 25ml into the air spring side because it's a step cast model :-)
Overall you did a pretty good job. I like watching your vids, I'm subbed to your channel and I'm not being picky but... You really should use gloves (nitrile or latex) when working with suspension fluid. On some of the oil cans, I've read its been tested and it is cancerogenic.
Also you should never instruct other ppl to loosen the air spring cap before removing the air from the spring, because I bet some of them will go like "Why don't I remove the cap completely right now" which can lead to injury, you should at least warn them them about the danger.
Also, I would recommend cleaning the foam ring with alcohol and soaking them in fresh oil before reusing them and using a little bit of suspension grease (slick honey, stendec, etc) on the dust seals just before you put the lower leg back on the fork, this two steps are really important.
Aleksandar Dimitrijevic exactly, Remove air pressure before loosening. That cap will come off like a bullet if you go too loose
+Torchedini you only loosen it a tiny fraction. I've been doing that for years and it has saved a lot of stripped top caps.
+Aleksandar Dimitrijevic I've been doing that step for years and it has saved a lot of stripped top caps. You only loosen it a tiny fraction.
I only use slick honey on internal parts. Using it on anything that can go external like stanchion tubes would attract too much dirt.
+Aleksandar Dimitrijevic yes, good point about the gloves. I should have mentioned that. When doing these videos I have to wash my hands dozens of times when operating a camera so using gloves is very difficult. But for normal service I would.
Yeah I know, doing a service and filming it is a pain in the arse. I service a lot of these forks and most of the time I don't even want to take photos of it, let alone film it, that is why I respect you guys who film it on such a high level of quality.
Concerning grease in dust seals, I disagree with your saying. As long as your seals are not really busted, the grease will seal the gap between stanchion and dust seal and pick up the dirt + it will reduce the friction between the two. After all, pretty much every manufacturers use it.
Its worthwile to clean the foam rings while you have the fork pants off. Keep up the great vids my friend!
Hey Clint, following along with your video to service my fork, which is the exact same as yours…SC 100mm Fit4, but on Fox’s website they state the air side oil volume is 10cc not 25cc like you stated in the video. Has Fox changed this since you posted the video or am I going crazy.
If you're looking at your model year I would go with what's on Fox's website. Just make sure you're looking up the step cast. It's honestly been a while since I've looked up the oil volumes on their website. Is it the same kind of oil? If it's the same year, the only thing I can think of is they changed the oil type which requires less volume.
@@ClintGibbs Same oil as in the video, Fox 20WT Gold. 2017/2018 SC forks calls for 10cc while 2019-2021 units call for only 8cc.
What would be the harm in adding 15 extra ml to the system?
@@corypurchase9682 It would just make the damping slower for the most part. But honestly I would call Fox technical support and ask them. If you don't mind, let me know what they say! I'm curious why they changed it since I made the video.
@@ClintGibbs Fox tech said as far as they know stepcast forks were always 10ml until the more recent change to 8ml. They mentioned that non-sc forks are 25ml which is probably what’s causing the confusion.
I’d suggest even adding some fork grease inside the dust covers
Good video. Wish I would have done this myself a week ago instead my letting my LBS do it. Right now I am concerned that my LBS forgot to put oil in the lowers. I have left the bike turned upside down for an hour and cycled the fork and I do not see or feel a thin layer of oil like when I got this fork brand new last year.
Nice and helpful tutorial but i missed the oil change of the fit4 damper cartridge. Do you can also provide a tutorial for this service step? I think it would be very useful for many people. Thanks a lot and many greetings from Germany.
Thanks Clint, very informative.
If you put your work stand lower and turn your fork 90 degrees to the ground you can work on releasing the lowers easier and break the seal then turn the fork upright to drain the oil, this way you and your tools dont get covered in oil also.
Hello Clint, how often do you replace the seals and the foam? Some other videos mention every 30 hours but you just cleaned it after 60 hours. (I also think it is kind of overkill to replace the seals every 30 hours.) Besides cleaning them, do you replace after a certain interval?
I think you mean changing the oil every 30 hours. I've never heard of changing the seals that often nor do I know anyone whoever does that. Personally I only change them about every year or two.
Thanks, Clint! I was worried.
Hi Clint! Thanks for the video! Could you comment on the Oil needed. On the damper side I am quite sure its 15cc but on the air side i am getting different nrs... you say 25cc but on the fox site they say 8cc for the StepCast...
32mm FLOAT SC 80-100 Air-Side Bath FOX 20wt. Gold 8cc
32mm FLOAT 80-120 Air-Side Bath FOX 20wt. Gold 25cc
I would look at the charts on Fox's website and go from that. They seem to change their recommendations from time to time.
Fox Step-Cast design is very difficult to service by the end user. Starting with the 10mm socket. You have found a narrow one. Mine does not fit inside the bolt because the bolt is not centered, it is near the lower leg tube wall.
If you don't replace the seals, and you won't reuse the old washers, where do you get the spare washers from? It doesn't make sense to me buying the full kit.
Hi Clint,
Have you tried just using your socket on the extension and hammering the end of that once you’ve backed the leg retaining nuts off a bit? As opposed to using the damper removal tool. Like what many have done including myself with non step cast forks. Just curious, because other than the added depth needed to access the nuts, it looks the same otherwise. Loosen nut off all the way, thread back on enough so as not to damage the nut or treads when hammering, and then just hit the socket extension. Just got a Step Cast 34 so just wondering if you see any reason this wouldn’t work from your servicing experience? Thanks!
I have not done that with the step cast fork. What I used to do with other forks is just get an old nut and thread it on backwards
Hi Clint, thanks for the video. If you aren't replacing your seals and wipers every time then where do you get all your extra wiper seals from??
Your bike shop should be able to order them from Fox or QBP
Sounds good, thanks!
I assume you put air back in the spring side before putting the stanchions back into the lowers because the piston gets sucked into the stanchions?
Yes
I didn't think of this until after posting but here's a thought and I wonder if anyone has ever tried this. What about a 27.5+ tire on the front of a bike with a standard 29" wheel in the rear? Sounds crazy right? Well, didn't we have 69ers at one time with 26" rear and 29" fronts? I don't know about you but I seem to notice a heavy rear wheel a lot more than the front and I seem to benefit a lot more from a grippy wider front tire than rear. You already have the stuff to do it, you should try just putting your front tire from the Giant on your Niner. I guess the only caveat might be it'd steepen your head angle if the diameter of the 27.5+ is less than the 29" setup. I would try it on my bike if i had the goods but I don't, my buddy has a 27.5+ but it's boosted, mine's the old spacing.
+robwas several people have suggested I do that. I might. But back when a few companies were making 96ers, most reviewers said they did not work well because of the vast difference in handling in the front and the rear. So I don't think I want to have that, and I don't want to throw the geometry off on the bike.
Doesn't mean I won't do it though. We'll see.
Yeah, I don't know how it'd feel either, I mean I've run a 2.25 in the back with a 2.5 in the front and it worked out well As they say just for shits and giggles might want to give it a spin. There's actually a bike on the market now called the Foes Mixer that runs a 29" wheel up front with a 27.5 on the rear but the geometry is designed around that. The next group ride I do I'm going to see if anyone riding a plus bike has 12x142 and would be up for letting me try out their front wheel on mine.
Hey Clint great video, love the channel. I know this vid is old but I’m hoping you have run into this issue before?
I’m replacing oil on the same model forks (SC 32, FIT4 ).
Using the proper fox lower removal tool, but can’t get the damper and air spring to come loose from the lowers.
Nuts have been removed, crush washers also.
When I thread the tool back it off then tap nothing is coming loose. Tried this quite a few times. I’m tapping with a bit of force.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I can’t find an answer anywhere and don’t want to damage the fork.
Cheers
Update: I managed to get the air spring loose by using a hammer rather than a rubber mallet. The Damper is still stuck tight though! I guess I just keep at it?
Yeah, sometimes it takes a bit of force. Make sure you use a hammer like you said. Also make sure there is a gap between the tool and the lower.
Thanks for responding. Ok cool, I’ll give it a little more force. Here’s hoping 🤞
Thanks for the video. I've. Got a ? On my fox 34 factory. The rebound screw is stuck doesn't move. Any help,,?
The only thing I would try is spring some WD-40 on it and letting it sit overnight. Then try to turn it.
I have a 32 SC float performance fox, I want to service my fork. I broke the small crappy screw that retains rebound adjustmet. I think I am still able to remove the retaining leg nut with the broken screw inside, what do you think? Do I just need another screw or should I buy the entire anodized adjustment barrel? which is ridiculously expensive
I'm pretty meticulous about that kind of stuff so I would get the replacement directly from Fox. But if it's really expensive you could at least try another one to see how it works.
Did you have to call Fox to order the Lower Leg Assembly Removal tool or did you find it off their website?
+keeb226 I think I had my local shop order it directly from Fox
Thank you very much for your videos. I might dare changing oil myself the next time. Do you have any knowledge of the top right end of the fork? I have the Step cast performance with remote lock out, and I have some problems that I'm trying to source knowledge around. Do you know any links to good info about this?
+Michael Sageryd I don't have any videos breaking into the damper assembly. It's a pretty Advanced procedure so if you're having issues I would see if you can send it back to Fox for warranty repair
Thank you. I'll start with contacting Trek and see what they think I should do.
Hm, every time i tried to use a regular socket wrench for the top cap i ended up damaging it a little. Ideally you need "flat" socket (don't remember how it's called exactly)
Great video, thanks. At the end of my service, rebound knob does not turn, it's frozen. Any piece of advice? Thanks.
Are you sure it worked before? The service only deals with removing that to get it out of the way. It does not really affect how it operates. I would try removing the knob and reinstalling it.
Yes, it worked before. I dropped the lowers back again, placed the knob and it was still stuck. Then I held the threaded part (which freely rotates) with my fingers while carefully turned the dial, to realize that the dial was at one end position (slowest or fastest, I don't remember), lightly seized. Then I turned the dial and it worked properly. Finally, I mounted everything back up. Rebound is working normally, but yet to pass a riding test. This has been my first service. Thank you!
Did u get the 44 or 51 offset? Thoughts ?
Hello . My Fox SC 34 is experiencing a small lock at the beginning of the stroke. This only occurs after a longer period of not using the bike. After the first use, this feeling of being locked at the beginning of the stroke disappears. It hás remote lockout. What could It be?
It could be that you’re getting a lot of stiction with the seals. Cycling the fork a few times and getting oil on those should resolve it but you may have lower oil than you should inside the forest. When is the last time you changed the oil?
@@ClintGibbsHi Clint. It's a new suspension. Approximately 6 hours of use. Could it had came with low oil? Additionally: I already put the bike up side down. I'm thinking about opening it to check. Do you have the dimensions of the crush washer? Do they have the same dimensions for both sides (air and FIT4)? And regarding the tool to remove the damper, the thread is m8?
awesome video i enjoyed it. could you please tell me your rim and tire combo because fox does not tell you in their fork specs what size tire and rim width it will accomedate. most carbon rims are 28mm to 40mm and nobody tells you if it will fit. and i am thinking of running a 29 by 2.4 with a fox 36 float factory fork. any help would be great.
+Joseph Nubile not trying to over simplify it but a standard for will fit up to about a 2.4. If you want to go bigger than that you need to get one design for plus size tires.
but how wide of a rim do you use with that 2.4 tire?
+Joseph Nubile mine is 26.4 external width. Plus tire rims are 35 to 40 mm wide. A tip is you can go on Stan's website which is www.notubes.com, and put in your tire with and it'll tell you which rim to use. It will have the width of that rim. Helpful even if you're not using a Stan's rim.
Thank you.
To clarify, is the same Fox removal tool used on both fork legs?
Yes
Hey, I am about to do service on my Fox 34 Step Cast, but I am a bit confused about the tools for the lower leg removal. According to Fox website I should have 2 different tools for the air side/damper side. You do the job with just 1 tool (39800681A). So this is the only one I need to do the job?
I only use one tool
The fox SC 32 forks have lost their manliness. I understand that saving weight is important but I will stick to 2015 model fox 32 and my manitou marvel pros. Look good though.
How could it loose manliness if there was no previous SC 32 fork? And regular one (non-SC) is still availible.
good video, quick question
i cant seem to find amount of oil to be used in 29" fork (FOX 32 FLOAT PERFORMANCE 29 2017) tried fox service site with that code cant seem to find it... any idea?
Lower leg oil volume? Can't go wrong with 20ml.
and other one 15ml?
I use 20ml in both right and left leg. But yes, if you want, you can use 15ml.
hvala or thank you !!
E pozdrav druze video sam sad na fox site-u izasla je oil volume lista i kaze 10CC(20wt gold) Air side // 40CC(FOX 5wt. Teflon Infused) Grip Damper-Side.
Didn't actually change the oil...only some of it. Damper also has oil (and sucks in air/oil over time).
Your foam rings look dirty, @ 11:00
Does anyone know what the hell the other end of the 15mm axle on the fork is for?
Can I adjust anything there?
+R. Smogavec it's so you can get the quick release lever in the right position.
Thanks Clint! :)
Keep up your knowledgable videos!
Anyone else think he kinda sounds like Nicolas Cage
Nicolas Cage sound wheey more goofy.
No i Don't think so
55 psi in the fork? Wow, I have 160 psi while beeing 200 pounds :o
+R. Smogavec yeah, I'm a lightweight. But also it seems the step cast forks require a little lower psi. Don't quote that as fact but it's been my experience.
Just bought myself a good deal Canyon Spectral SL 9.0 with Fox Talas 32 CTD Kashima Factory and I'm afraid that service will be fucking expensive, either sending it in or buying the tools for myself and do it then :D
first!😋
+Night GaMeR6 🏆
Clint Gibbs 😱😱😱 keep it up! sir.
secoooond