Did mine after 10 years and a few thousand miles. No leaks, oil was still clean and insides were perfect. Although I wouldn't recommend that long, 30 hours is a joke! :)
You do not need new seals every 30 hours unless they are leaking oil. Just a clean. Had the same seals for 2 years. I do not use Fox float fluid to lube the foam wipers as some video's suggest. This stuff is sticky, expensive, and unnecessary. I don't use Fox 10wt Green either as it is too thin and wont stay on the foam rings for more than a few hours. Best thing I have found is to soak the wipers in Nulon Fully synthetic gear oil 75-90 wt, Slipperiest stuff on the planet. You can also wipe some on the legs occasionally before riding, which makes a huge difference to small bump response and eliminates stiction. It does no damage to the seals, been doing it regularly for over a year. Way better than these expensive lubes and sprays which don't make any discernible difference. Also turn your bike upside down for 5 mins before riding to get the splash oil up on the wipers.
Thanks for the tip. A quick question for you. Changing the weight of the oil will effect the damped behavior of the fork. Have you found that the higher weight oil has made a noticeable difference to your Damper and rebound performance? Thanks.
No i didnt replace thte seal, it shouldnt be too hard so no issues there. Thanks for the oil tip as well. I too didnt go for the original fox fluid and im very happy with what i used (not that i would know the differenece)
was gonna take my bike in to the shop and now I'm thinking I can do that and buy all the tools and stuff to service it for far less. very nice explanation. Thanks
To drive out the shaft with the rebound adjustment I just used a block of wood with a small hole drilled in it. Was surprised how much rubber hammering mine required. I just changed my oil but when I do the seals I will use a 1-1/4 inch piece of 160 psi PVC pipe as the driver. Note this is 160 psi, NOT Schedule 40 which is too thick. This appears to fit perfectly vs. paying Fox US$30+ for a driver.
Excellent video, and I got mine done today. Plastic drain pipes are good size for pushing the seals in. Greatly appreciate you posting this video!!! Oh, and I used Amsoil synthetic rather than the spendy Fox oil and no stiction! Smells the same.
Go to Fox's tech help chart for your specific model: TH-cam won't allow me to type a url but follow this on pages lefthand menu bar: > Service > Oil Volumes Your Float R sounds like line 27 on the chart (the same line as mine) I confirmed the 160, 30 amounts for my Float O/B as that with Fox tech rep on phone.
+Alex Pavlov but he made this so it looks like we'll done for someone who has no ide (eg. he is too scared to do anything by himself so he will pay them 100$ for an oil change anyway ;)
I have an RL80 that will hold air forever just sitting but as soon as you start riding it will loose its air. Do you know what the problem is and what needs to be replaced?
When I hammered out the bolts like you did oil sprayed all over the room including on my clothes, which had to be thrown out. Why were you able to do that without ANY oil coming out while on mine it sprayed out? Piece of "drift" is not a common phrase. I didn't have that tool so I used a small ratchet head but I don't believe that's why the oil sprayed out.
Even with a 34mm seal press tool my seals would NOT go in until I hammered each of them with a rubber mallet. It took forever trying to push it in like you did. I cut my hand when the tool slipped again and again. I don't get it.
Cada 30 horas? Mí suspensión tiene 12 años que no le hago nada, trabaja perfectamente y sin tirar aceite. Pero creo que es tiempo de hacerle un servicio!
On every fork I've ever owned I've only replaced the seals if they were leaking or where visibly damaged (cracked, torn). If they are not damaged, I just clean them and continue to use them. Their purpose is only to help keep dirt from getting to the oil and keep all the oil from coming out. In the service docs on a previous model I had a few years back it said to visibly inspect them and change them if they need it. Now they tell you to replace the seals every time you do an oil change. Use your own judgment, but their is a great incentive for them to tell you to change the seals every time - it's interesting that they used to say only do it as necessary. If there is a problem with the seal, you will know it either with visible leaking, cracks/tears or other obvious damage/wear, and or poor performance. Don't fix it if it's not broke!
I'd say he did this to prevent oil getting around the wiper seal bed. if this area was lubricated it could cause the Stanchion to pull the seal out on the rebound stroke, this is also why he removed any of the waxy residue that may have been on the wiper seal after production.
Seems to be a lot of criticism in the comments. I just wanna say, despite some poor practices (spinning the fork on the dowel and using a bottle brush with a metal shaft, typical Aussie "She'll be right mate!") and considering how long ago this video was made, for me it ranks as the second most relevant tutorial I've found for owners of this particular model. I have it in the 100x9QR version.
I used this video as my guide, but he didn't replace the oil/fluid in the damper. Nor did he tak about the gasket at the bottom of the fork. I didn't know what it was and thought it might be something needing to be replaced. Otherwise easy to follow video.
hola muy instructivo el video, deseo saber cuantos milimetros de aceite requiere la FOX 2014 34 FLOAT 27.5 150 O/C CTD para realizar este mantenimiento.
hola saludos tengo una horquilla fox float 32 130 de recorrido sabes cuanto aceite lleva de cada lado voy a cambiar solo los retenes ... soy de guadalajara
No Loctite on the rebound adjuster grub screw threads - either the act of someone who likes to live dangerously or someone who genuinely takes his fork apart every 30 hours :-P...
Yeah... my new seals are NOT going on. He makes it look effortless in this video. I'm grunting and straining, putting all my weight into it, and it will. Not. Go. On!
Huntstyle i had the same problem, i ended up RUINING £28 worth of seals, without the correct insertion tool I wouldn't recommend installing them at home. I got a bike shop to do them for me, it cost me £6, but was definitely worth it
@@philliptaylor502 try puuting them in the fridge first.. Also check you ahve the correct ones, there are older ones which are slightly bigger or smaller I cant remember :-/
That would seem more appropriate to me. Thirty hours is a week and a half of heavy training, that would be a lot of time and money spent on maintenance in a year.
Did mine after 10 years and a few thousand miles. No leaks, oil was still clean and insides were perfect. Although I wouldn't recommend that long, 30 hours is a joke! :)
the only good thing about 30 hour change is relubing dust seals with sram butter.
I saw on fox’s website 8 hrs. for muddy conditions 🤣 My Fox Vanilla fork is on its 15th year
@Cfass1 sounds like recommending wiping your bum every half hour even if you didnt go for a shit
You do not need new seals every 30 hours unless they are leaking oil. Just a clean. Had the same seals for 2 years. I do not use Fox float fluid to lube the foam wipers as some video's suggest. This stuff is sticky, expensive, and unnecessary. I don't use Fox 10wt Green either as it is too thin and wont stay on the foam rings for more than a few hours. Best thing I have found is to soak the wipers in Nulon Fully synthetic gear oil 75-90 wt, Slipperiest stuff on the planet. You can also wipe some on the legs occasionally before riding, which makes a huge difference to small bump response and eliminates stiction. It does no damage to the seals, been doing it regularly for over a year. Way better than these expensive lubes and sprays which don't make any discernible difference. Also turn your bike upside down for 5 mins before riding to get the splash oil up on the wipers.
AWESOME INFO!
great, thank you..
Thanks for the tip. A quick question for you. Changing the weight of the oil will effect the damped behavior of the fork. Have you found that the higher weight oil has made a noticeable difference to your Damper and rebound performance? Thanks.
No i didnt replace thte seal, it shouldnt be too hard so no issues there. Thanks for the oil tip as well. I too didnt go for the original fox fluid and im very happy with what i used (not that i would know the differenece)
+Adrian D What fluids did you use for your shocks?
I'm in the UK and this was one of the best videos on servicing my Fox 80 rl
was gonna take my bike in to the shop and now I'm thinking I can do that and buy all the tools and stuff to service it for far less. very nice explanation. Thanks
To drive out the shaft with the rebound adjustment I just used a block of wood with a small hole drilled in it. Was surprised how much rubber hammering mine required.
I just changed my oil but when I do the seals I will use a 1-1/4 inch piece of 160 psi PVC pipe as the driver. Note this is 160 psi, NOT Schedule 40 which is too thick. This appears to fit perfectly vs. paying Fox US$30+ for a driver.
Man this video saved my but. Was able to replace my dust seals as described. Great job.
30 hrs if you're a professional rider. mere mortals every couple of years
I thought I miss heard him at first and then he repeated it. Lol, Fox wishes I would do it that often
I just wait until they start leaking.
very well instructed! thank you for the video. my fork is back in business!
Excellent video, and I got mine done today. Plastic drain pipes are good size for pushing the seals in. Greatly appreciate you posting this video!!! Oh, and I used Amsoil synthetic rather than the spendy Fox oil and no stiction! Smells the same.
what weight oil?
@@specagent999 The Amsoil I used is 0-20. I am more and more impressed with its performance.
Great vid! Gonna practice on my mates forks first ;)
If you change those seals every 30h after a year you spend the price of that fork 😁
kinda impressed to see a kashima coat working with green 10wt but since its a 2013 video iguess thats what fox recommended back in those days
Good job guys, great vid. I can confidently do my own fork now.
Fresh oil rebuild, see how next ride goes. Thanks for the video. Use Fox website for oil levels.
How did your ride go if you remember
Very good and clear procedure, go on make some more in to detaiels
i would like to see a full service of a Fox Float Fit!
Thank you for the video! You did a good job.
Nice informative video mate, thanks for taking the time.
Just wondered about the suspension grease. What kind of grease is it? Can't find it anywhere? Does the seal have to be greased? Great vid by the way
I really appreciate this video , thanks legends!!!!!!!!! Now im off to the trails to crash
Super easy to understand. Thanks!
Go to Fox's tech help chart for your specific model: TH-cam won't allow me to type a url but follow this on pages lefthand menu bar:
> Service > Oil Volumes
Your Float R sounds like line 27 on the chart (the same line as mine) I confirmed the 160, 30 amounts for my Float O/B as that with Fox tech rep on phone.
Fox tech rep told me to just use Green 10 wt on the seals. Some guys use Slick Honey on bike forums but I'm doing what the factory rep said.
Other sources say to use fox float fluid on the foam rings.
No problem just using 10wt green?
Nice video how much oil on top where the air go and the other side
Great video. Now can you please do the same video with the smaller rear shock... the fox float CTD version?
This video helped a lot! Cheers mate!
Excelente video solo que me surge una duda como se cambia el aceite para una suspension de cartucho FIT???
I have those exact forks
edit: haven't serviced in 6 years 🤫😥
Ur Jokin?
@@juki-kartracing7547 few years over due
Did you have to "rattle" that metal rod inside the lower leg tube, the piece of rag was not even pushed inside. Lol...
yes, that was some bullshit! also, he should have cleaned his fingernails! ;))
+Alex Pavlov but he made this so it looks like we'll done for someone who has no ide (eg. he is too scared to do anything by himself so he will pay them 100$ for an oil change anyway ;)
The pressure limit on the Fork is 135psi, all forks are different, for 34 or 36 the PSI to weight ration is totally different.
The rag on the stick does not even go into the legs, and what bike was that fork on with huge steerer tube
Well Done, Sir.
Thank you very much for this 411.
Nice video!! In fox oil lev chart i can read that i have to put 5cc oil in the air chamber. You dont due that in the movie??
Great video! Really helpful! Shame about his severe case of upspeak!
because you risk putting oil around the side where the rubber dust wipers sit. if there is oil on there, the rubbers won't stay in place tightly.
in all these videos i never see then cycle the damper to get the used oil out of the fork should this be done or not?
Where did he use the suspension grease?
o and y did u not use the blue float fluid? on the foam rings ?
nice video , i have a queestion, ¿What a type of oil use to fork fox 36?
very informative. Thank you.
My rebound side took a 15mm socket, which I didn't have, so I had to use a 15mm wrench. What a pain.
I dont have to clean the air piston? Or do i need to do that?
I have an RL80 that will hold air forever just sitting but as soon as you start riding it will loose its air. Do you know what the problem is and what needs to be replaced?
Any alternative to a "piece of drift"? Cause i dont know what the hell it is.
Wooden dowel with a hole drilled in it will do the job
Perfect Video, thanks for sharing. Can you do a video showing all he steps for 2016-2018 32mm/34mm P-S FIT4 3pos Damper Cartridge Rebuild..? Thanks
When I hammered out the bolts like you did oil sprayed all over the room including on my clothes, which had to be thrown out. Why were you able to do that without ANY oil coming out while on mine it sprayed out?
Piece of "drift" is not a common phrase. I didn't have that tool so I used a small ratchet head but I don't believe that's why the oil sprayed out.
Did you release all the air pressure?
Im confused, the fox website states 30 ml per leg. Why sre you using 20ml?
depends on what susp you have,he says it
Any way of just cleaning the foam rings without taking the whole fork apart?
What are the Box dimension?
what is the cost to assemble?
Can I remove the lower bolts for a drain/fill/wipedown without releasing pressure from the fork cartridge?
Even with a 34mm seal press tool my seals would NOT go in until I hammered each of them with a rubber mallet. It took forever trying to push it in like you did. I cut my hand when the tool slipped again and again. I don't get it.
How to resolve fox fork talas air leak, do I need replace the seals or just oil maintenance?
Safety ist no.1 priority? Or is there another reason you wear safety glasses? Is there any danger?
Cada 30 horas? Mí suspensión tiene 12 años que no le hago nada, trabaja perfectamente y sin tirar aceite. Pero creo que es tiempo de hacerle un servicio!
Hi, How come you do not put the foam rings in first before installing the seals?
No need for the Float fluid? Also, what's a good alternative to the Ahem...minor heart attack...$40 bottle of 10 weight Fox oil?
What is the size of oil sealing lip for fox float 32?
Okay so every 30h lube change that makes sense but do you have replace the seals every 30 h aswell?
On every fork I've ever owned I've only replaced the seals if they were leaking or where visibly damaged (cracked, torn). If they are not damaged, I just clean them and continue to use them. Their purpose is only to help keep dirt from getting to the oil and keep all the oil from coming out. In the service docs on a previous model I had a few years back it said to visibly inspect them and change them if they need it. Now they tell you to replace the seals every time you do an oil change. Use your own judgment, but their is a great incentive for them to tell you to change the seals every time - it's interesting that they used to say only do it as necessary. If there is a problem with the seal, you will know it either with visible leaking, cracks/tears or other obvious damage/wear, and or poor performance. Don't fix it if it's not broke!
Did he forget to put the foam rings back in before the seals !!?
Notice that too :-)
Doesn't matter. You can do it either way 👍
I'd say he did this to prevent oil getting around the wiper seal bed. if this area was lubricated it could cause the Stanchion to pull the seal out on the rebound stroke, this is also why he removed any of the waxy residue that may have been on the wiper seal after production.
Where do you buy the seal kits?
Soo my fork has the compression adjustments on the lower. Same procedure? Or am I going to have to pay a bike shop $200
Seems to be a lot of criticism in the comments. I just wanna say, despite some poor practices (spinning the fork on the dowel and using a bottle brush with a metal shaft, typical Aussie "She'll be right mate!") and considering how long ago this video was made, for me it ranks as the second most relevant tutorial I've found for owners of this particular model. I have it in the 100x9QR version.
What is the most relevant tutorial you have found?
Any idea if this is the same for a CTD fork?
Is brake cleaner essentially ISO-Pro?
Yep. 6 years late ahaha. isopropyl alcohol
30 hours............. wow
Its a FIT cartridge so you don't need to cycle the old fluid out.
"I wash my forks with a rag on a stick"
I spat my beer. Thanks a bunch eh? :-)
What suspension grease should I be using? Any ideas/recommendations?
You could use a bit of the oil you use to fill the lowers up or some Fox Fluid, doesn't need to be anything special
Onion1220 PMR
Cheers!
I used this video as my guide, but he didn't replace the oil/fluid in the damper. Nor did he tak about the gasket at the bottom of the fork. I didn't know what it was and thought it might be something needing to be replaced. Otherwise easy to follow video.
because you can't touch your damper in home ;) "you have to go to service and pay 100$ for oil change" that's how fox works
Does it have to Be Fox oil or is any 10w fork oil good?
Any motorcycle Fork oil works as long as it is the same weight. Also synthetic is preferred but not necessary.
Hi..im from bali,its posible to adjust this fox from travel 130 to 150 pleace let me know
To tap the legs out I bought a spare nut from Fox and use that instead.
what if i weigh close to 150 kg i need to inflate my shox with 150 psi
Is better to check first the fox´s web page is not the same if you have a float or talas fork.the pressure is not the same also the level of oil.
MUITO BOMMM AMIGO VALEW FICA COM DEUS
hola muy instructivo el video, deseo saber cuantos milimetros de aceite requiere la FOX 2014 34 FLOAT 27.5 150 O/C CTD para realizar este mantenimiento.
hola saludos tengo una horquilla fox float 32 130 de recorrido sabes cuanto aceite lleva de cada lado voy a cambiar solo los retenes ... soy de guadalajara
la horquilla que el usa es de 120mm al parecer es muy poca la diferencia que debes incluir.
those washers came out the bag ready to go xD
use always 10wt green?
I thought my 34 float used 20wt gold
When you buy new seals the package will say if it is compatible with the 20wt gold.
No Loctite on the rebound adjuster grub screw threads - either the act of someone who likes to live dangerously or someone who genuinely takes his fork apart every 30 hours :-P...
Nice man
My fork does not have the air inlet it only has a cap on it
do I how to use fox racing 10w oil??
It's the second or third time I've done this now, but I can't get the bloody seals in straight on my latest service. Any tips anyone in 2020?
dunno bro. Maybe find some cheap pipe or PVC with the same dimensions and make ur own seal pusher
Ok, that makes sense
This guy asks an awful lot of questions ;-)
Yeah it's really confusing trying to learn how to do this. Everyone does it differently...
can you please show us how to service the upper leg?
It's easy... If you have all of the MacGuyver do dads! LoL
Not a good idea to twirl the fork around on a broom handle. This is a good way to damage delicate parts on the interior.
Yeah... my new seals are NOT going on. He makes it look effortless in this video. I'm grunting and straining, putting all my weight into it, and it will. Not. Go. On!
Huntstyle i had the same problem, i ended up RUINING £28 worth of seals, without the correct insertion tool I wouldn't recommend installing them at home. I got a bike shop to do them for me, it cost me £6, but was definitely worth it
@@philliptaylor502 try puuting them in the fridge first.. Also check you ahve the correct ones, there are older ones which are slightly bigger or smaller I cant remember :-/
Incomplete job. You jumped past reinstalling the adjustment knobs at the top of the stanchion tubes and their initial set up.
It's called common sense. Maybe you should try it someday?
أحسنت ...شوف لي شي خدمة نعجبك
Every 30 hours.. jesus.
Christ I was thinking the same thing. I think he means every 30 months..
yeah, there is no fucking way I'm doing that every 30 hours! Seems ridiculous
itz 130, you can check the fox website for that
They seem to have changed that recently. I think it now says 150 hours
That would seem more appropriate to me. Thirty hours is a week and a half of heavy training, that would be a lot of time and money spent on maintenance in a year.
lol 30h
I WANT THAT SHIRT!! 0.o
Carefull you dont stick the allen key in your eye