blaire's muerte death sauce. 45k scoville, but tastes good enough on its own that it would be a good sauce even without the heat. Amazing sauce once you get used to the heat. Franks is easily my favorite low-heat sauce though.
I never served in combat when I was in the army, but done a lot of live fire training, and blank round. with miles gear. My squad was on a combat training operation. Not a drop of oil in the squad gun bag. We were old school back in the 70 's. Running a scout squad with M 151 1/4 tons with M 60 mounted. No oil no problem. Motor oil worked and got us through the operation.
Ballistol was also used as first aid for cuts and scrapes - there is still a first aid version - and it's also sold in a form to apply to pets' fur to keep it smooth and glossy.
Are you in your 50's, 60's, 70's... Thumbs-up if you remember the smell of Hoppe's #9 from childhood, it still smells wonderful doesn't it!! Those really rare/special days when you were a kid out with dad and brother...and dad said "yeah, OK lets do that" when you ask if we can get the .22 out and do a little shooting. Then, cleaning the gun together that evening. I really miss my dad, but he's kind there with me when I'm cleaning my guns...with Hoppe's #9 :-)
I was a service Tech in the Printing industry and can vow for use of Kroil. Best penetrating oil I ever used. I took a small container with me all over the world for disassembly of corroded parts.
100% concur on the Kano kroil. Only product that actually worked when I was trying to replace my XD45 sights. Those things were in there so damn tight. I've also used it to free up lots of other rustlocked stuff, including brake caliper bolts. Just be careful not to spill it, especially on wood veneer where it will get under that in a heartbeat.
Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil works really well as a lubricant and protectant. I use it in my ARs and I've preserved my Mosin in it. And a quart last a long time. I use the left overs from my car's oil changes.
I have been using Weapon Shield oil and grease for several years now. It's never failed me, plus the grease smells like cinnamon which is always a pleasant surprise after smelling something like Ballistol which smells like dirty gym socks.
@Blueskies Hickok45 loves Ballistol. I prefer Hoppes #9 followed by a very light film of mineral oil, as per GunBlue490, my most trusted old-timer on TH-cam.
@@boricuaarecibo9259 That bad? I'm disappointed to hear that. I was planning to use that to clean up after lead free ammunition because I've heard it's so corrosive.
To be fair he probably recommends ballistol because it was the one product that has lasted throughout the decades along with him. Only other one that might be as old is hoppes but people complain about it having a strong odor.
LPS 3# turns hard after a few years, I found that out on an old .22 marlin I had. I pulled it out from the back of the safe, loaded it , pulled the trigger, and the trigger stayed back, and the gun failed to fire. Took it apart, and the LPS had all got like tar. I use to use LPS #3 on all my AR's, but I fired and cleaned those guns all the time. Now I use Synthetic Automatic Transmission fluid as a CLP. ATF is loaded with detergents, and cleans up everything real nice. I have worked on friends guns and had trigger groups absolutely caked with dirt, oil, dried WD40, Garand grease etc. I just soak them down with ATF, brush with a small nylon brush, blow dry them with an air hose, and re-assemble. Works MINT ! I have a Hoppes #9, and some Remoil sitting on the shelf for 15 years now, never use it anymore.
Yep tried a couple of different oils and nothing beats engine oil IMO. ATF maybe slightly better due to it's better colder climate properties though 5-40w engine oil is plenty thin in pretty extreme negative temperatures. I just can't handle the smell and the stained clothes.
Read an article a while back that JMB designed the 1911 to run on sperm whale oil.....because this was the Supreme oil at the time....Dextron 3 ATF is basically man made sperm whale oil......have been running it on all my firearms and have yet to have a problem.....I use it as a preservative and also lubricant or CLP as you will....try it, if you dont like it... wipe it off and go back to what you were using.....cheap and available everywhere....
My brother and I have used Eezox for years and find it consistently excellent on all of our guns. We have never had a problem with cleaning, rust, corrosion, staining or long-term storage with antique and modern guns in all finishes. Yes, price is an issue but not a big deal in the scope of protecting your investments. Historic issue: Originally sold in plastic bottles the volatile components would evaporate through the bottle over a period of 3 -10 years. The product is no longer sold in plastic bottles.
Agreed. If you need a bit more lubricative properties, just leave a slightly thicker film. I use it on everything metal., including nickel plating with no problems. As long as the cleaning component is allowed to completely evaporate. It does not burn, gum, or freeze.
As a test I soaked some bamboo skewers in BALLISTOL, BREAKFREE and EEZOX. The EEZOX soaked skewer smoldered and took significantly longer to burn than the control, or the sticks soaked in other formulas.
Remoil has come in last in every test I've ever seen for rust prevention. It also has mediocre lubricating properties and leaves a nasty oily film on everything. Ballistol is a surprisingly good all-in one. It removes lead and powder and restores wood/leather/rubber and does ok at preventing rust. Very curious about the eezox, it scored very high in several scientific tests. I've heard it's good at cleaning too but I haven' seen any tests. Going to be picking some up soon. Hoppe's no.9 is one of the best at removing lead and copper and also displaces water. The hoppe's oil is one of the better rust preventers. Together the hoppes products do a better job than any of the CLP's I've seen.
@@rustyyates421 it's still oil it's going to do what oil does. It just doesn't do it as well as all the other oils on the market. For like a dollar more you can upgrade to hoppes. Their oil was middle of the pack and their cleaner was one of the best. I tend to recommend the ballistol because well it's not quite as good as Hoppe's, it's still one of the better cleaners and lubricants and protectants. But most of all it doesn't damage anything. You don't have to worry about getting it on your plastic or rubber or your leather... you can clean your boots with it if you want. CLP is with the military uses and it's pretty good. But I always try to steer people away from Bramwell because in objective test it does terribly, and in my subjective test when I put it on a pellet gun and kept it in my trunk for a couple of days, it rusted to shit. Guns are expensive, spend the extra dollar to protect them properly.
@@JC-fj7oo m pro 7 is an excellent cleaner on guns and doesn't hurt the plastic and has no oder . It works as well as hoppes and is around the same price. But as I said ,it is a pretty much a cleaner. I can't find ballistol in the area I live in for some reason. I would have to order it online I guess. Still I find rem oil to do about as any I've used. Maybe you have to use it more often but it seems to work Thanks
verteup I've used synth motor oil for years without issue. Figured if it can protect engines, it should work well. I am NO expert though so always interested in different opinions. Have you quantified specific problems with motor oil? Thanks much.
Picked up some Weapon Shield a while back, and have been using it with good results. Not exotically expensive, like some of the other products, and a little goes a long way. That being said, be careful when you use it. It tends to run when you apply it.
Back in the 80's, Eezox was the cheapest, It was about $3.00 a Can at gun stores. There was always a display Case box in every Gun shop with "Hey!! quit wasting money, Eezox does it all",, In Washington (The Seattle area) it didn't sell well. It does work though as advertised, I just think that they hiked up the Price So people will say in their thoughts "Man this stuff is really expensive,, Must work the best" This sort of thing.
***** Funny thing, A Realtor will have you pull your house from the Market if you are not getting any bites on your price, And the figuring in that is about the Quality of People you attract with your price. He / She will list it again at even a higher price in a few Months and see if people with the income who could afford your old price will be willing to pay even more for it. ( I'm not stating whether or not there is people better than others out there ) It's just a Marketing Scheme. They call it Steering the would be Buyer. Dave.
Gentlemen, As an "Old" Nam armored cavalry platoon leader, I have thru the years found some very interesting guidance, directions, "mandates" about firearms cleaning. Seems the advice is as varied as the persons experience, training and/or deployments, etc. So my two cents! IMOP, cleaning, lubing an AR requires different methods than cleaning/lubing todays modern semi-auto pistols. Reason being, the AR gas-impingment system changes everything! That hot gas going into the upper-receiver/BCG will dry out the lubricant rather quickly depending on your sustained fire-rate. The M16A1s used in my unit were handed down for 3+ years. Most, if not all were very worn (shiny bolt cams, crooked retaining pins, locking-lugs, etc.). Troopers usually burned thru 10-20 mags per firefight (20 rd mag, but filled with 18-19 rds). Some auto, but mostly semi-auto. Remember, the A1 model had chromed chamber n barrel. Extraction issues basically eliminated! Cleaning it out on a mission? Snatch that BCG out, wipe it down with your current sweaty, stinking oily cut-up OD t-shirt, lube it up real good with some LSA, pop it back in, ready to go! You could really go wild and run a patch thru the bore, but unless you're dragging it thru some mud, not necessary. Fancy cleaning items? Pipe cleaners, tooth brushes, with the usual issued cleaning rod/brass brush. How about gasoline or diesel fuel when we ran out of gun solvent (which was in the usual green can, maybe Hoppes?) Out of LSA? how about the latest technological lube? Oh what, use 30wt diesel oil? Oh yeah, in a heart beat. Back from a search n destroy mission; re-arm, fuel up, pull vehicle and weapon maintenance, stuff yourself and hope some water is remaining for a very quick gravity fed cold "shower". Sleep like a dead man, because you're next up for another 7-14 day mission. Sorry, I ramble, but in conclusion, to my knowledge, my troops had total confidence in their 16 to go bang when it was necessary. They were clean, but our Drill Instructors would definitely would have a stroke? As far as care/cleaning of our modern semi-auto pistols. DoD testing requirements for the M9, M17 and the like, include extensive climate variations, FTFs monitoring after filthy conditions, etc, but with today superior ammo, propellants, high-grade metals and factory tolerances, I think we go a little crazy about maintaining these terrific firearms available to us today. That said. Keep up the great dialogue. May our 2d amendment survive this current attack!
My Armored Cav Troop CO introduced Break Free to the U.S. Army in 1980 and received an award as a result. He discovered the product at a hardware store near Fort Knox, where we were stationed, and started using it around the house and on his privately owned firearms. He was so impressed with how well it worked that he purchased, out of his own pocket, several drums of Break Free and we used it to clean and lube everything from the tubes of our 105mm tank main guns down to our .45ACP pistols with great success! I was so impressed with it that now, many years after my ETS, I still use it for damn near everything that needs cleaning and/or lubrication.
Ive got to disagree on rem-oil. I use and have used it in the past, but as a rust inhibitor it has let me down on a number of occasions. Ive liberally soaked guns in the stuff and still had them develop spotting days later in the minnesota winters. After i finally threw in the towel on rem-oil as my main do all oil I switched to breakfree CLP and have had no issues for years. Rem oil still sticks around for lighter duty oiling on knives and things or as a general lubricant, but it is not my go to for corrosion resistance.
Same here on Rem Oil, and CLP failed a couple times on me too. Guns rusted in the safe. Since I started wiping down all my gun collection every six months with Ballistol, I haven't seen a speck of rust. Eezox worked well, too, but the smell gave me a headache and I believe I read it's fumes might be toxic long term. You can drink Ballistol, it's totally non toxic. Love it 1:10 with water for after corrosive ammo too.
I used Rem oil for years until I left a pistol in my car for about a month one hot and humid summer and it got a bunch of rust on it. I tried a couple other oils that I didn't quite like until I tried Weapon Shield about a year ago. After one year of using it I am still happy with it. Makes the guns clean up a hell of a lot easier when done shooting and is non toxic.
Ditto. Used Remoil on my SKS outer surfaces and got rust within a month. Breakfree CLP no rust. I use Kroil on old guns that have rusty spots that seem to lift off with a wipe. Ballistol goes for cleaning anything shooting surplus and corrosive ammo.
Weapon Shield has to be the best CLP I have ever used and very good on any metal to metal friction just goes away. Everyone should check out the friction tests on you tube. Just type in Weapon Shield in the search bar.
I was in a bind one time for gun oil and all I had was some Castrol synthetic 0-20w motor oil so I used it. Don't laugh it works great! Maybe because it is such low viscosity and is synthetic. 1 qt. of this lasts a long time. It cleans bores really good and does not leave a gummy oil residue on barrels and actions. I'm sold on this, been using it for years, and my M-39 gets much better mileage now that I use Castrol!!!!!!
I use Break Free on all my firearms. The aerosol foams nicely and completely coat the inside of the barrel. Removes more fouling than anything else I've used. The spray bottles are great for general cleaning. Spray it on a cloth for wiping surfaces down, a q-tip, or swab for tight spaces or a patch to use down the barrel. Then the squeeze bottles are better for lubrication after cleaning. The CLP in the aerosol and spray bottles is a thinner formulation than the CLP in the squeeze bottles. It makes it better for different areas.
My father and I have used 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil for lubrication and storage for as long as I have been shooting guns, never a failure on moving parts and no surface rust and Hoppes solvent for cleaning, our guns are like new.
For me I like to use Mobile 1 engine. The lightest weight available. It has a good detergent effect which I have come to love because of no range failures. It's a synthetic and extremely low VOC's so it doesn't dry or gel or cake.
I've used EEZOX on and off for close to 30 years. Don't know if it was mentioned in previous comments, but If I remember correctly, it does not play well with aluminum. And it wasn't to skin-friendly either. Many years ago, as strange as this sounds, people complained that it gave them wart-like skin bumps. One thing though... It was unbeaten in regards to corrosion-proofing your firearms. I mostly now use Militec 1. Good stuff!
Be careful with Eezox. It works great, but gave me an allergic reaction that almost had me going to the ER. I’ve heard others say the same, just depends on the person.
As always, great video and well covered! Was disappointed to not see Rem oil on the table, but was glad you cleared that up! I've always been a fan of Rem oil. It's plentiful and does a great job for your average shooter. Cleaning and lubes is another one of those broad areas with so much to choose from. Keep up the great work!
VODZ I use grease where the bolt rides and cam pin and a light film where the bcg rides. I use oil while shooting until I clean it again. The oil helps thin the grease and it sticks good
I have used LPS#2, WD-40, Kroil, and PB Blaster on guns with excellent results. But you need to be careful about not getting lubricants and solvents on ammo. They can work their way between the bullet and casing and ruin the powder.
@@saltyroe3179 It might, if you soaked your ammo in it for a few days. I've had ammo get wet (with water) and still work fine. I never put penetrating oil on ammo, just the gun. It noticeably reduces surface friction on moving parts, and can easily be wiped off.
@@geraldscott4302 in early 1970s cleaned surplus .303 with WD40 . The result was about 50% failure of rounds to go off. This is when we found out that penatrating chemical gets to the primer and inactivates it. Fortunately I was not relying on the amo.
I use pure linseed oil for my wood. Not boiled. The boiled has chemical in it. Little bit on a rag and wipe it in. Used for 50 years. For my metal parts, I use nothing but motor oil. After I clean everything, I wet a rag, squeeze it out, and rub it into everything. For the hard to access parts I use synthetic oil on a Q tip. Let sit for a few minutes and wipe it all off. I’ve never had rust, never had a malfunction due to dryness. In 1969 my armorer in the Army turned us onto motor oil, and showed us how to apply it. A tiny bit goes a long way. He said think about it...oil companies spend millions on research for oils that hold up until high friction and temps. I’ve been using it ever since. A quart lasts me about 5 years. Good luck
I have used ballistol and really liked it. I also use a lot of rem oil and have had wonderful results on performance and rust prevention with it as well. I am of the kind of person that likes to use one product that can clean, lubricate, and prevent rust. Probably why I like simple oil base products. I also don’t like brushes in my rifle barrels. I use a bore snake and it does a great job. When dooms day comes, I can use one product. 👍🏻
Love Eezox!!!! I took it to a two week field problem. It rained non-fucking-stop. Easy to say there was a problem with rust. Little coat of it, let it set for about 15 seconds, and wiped it all off! My bottle of Eezox got passed around like a... well you get the picture!. The problem is it falls short as a lube. We used small portions of CLP to lube our weapons. At home I use FP-10 lube. I don't think I'll ever change!
Joseph Potter You aren't using it correctly and that's why it's not lubing well for you. You apply it and let it sit, and wipe it off later. Sounds like you weren't leaving it on long enough to impregnate the metal.
3 in 1 was the main choice for my dad and grandfather. Later in life, my dad started using Remoil and man, what a mistake that was! Oil wouldn't last, most of his guns had rusting. I've used 3 in 1 for 18 years, since I was a 12. No complaints yet, so no need to switch to anything else.
I like some of these products as well. Strikehold rules for what I use it for as well as WD-40, Hosa Contact cleaner, Fader lube, and Gold contact enhancer for circuit boards and connections for my musical (guitar and recording) hobby. For the most part, my main solvent I reach for is Hoppes 9 for scrubbing parts and bore, although I now have Weapons Shield solvent to test. Additionally, I use Lucas contact cleaner for spraying trigger groups and bore blow back in the black rifles I use Ballistol with hot water for black powder, rinse and use weapons shield to lube. My main lube is Weapons Shield. *Every season, I'll do a complete teardown, check parts for wear and replace if needed and give parts a bath soak in mineral spirits, rinse with hot water, shoot with compressed air and immediately spray thoroughly with CLP and wipe down as I reassemble using Weapons Shield oil and grease. Ezzox is used to lube firearms long term storage that I dont fire or hardly ever. I use Weapons Shield grease although I used to use Red N Tacky grease. Navel Jelly is for extreme rust removal. At the range, I carry Hoppes 9 solvent, Weapons Shield oil and grease, and a can of contact cleaner aerosol. Out of habit, after firing a group, I run wet patches down the bore of my bench rifle(s) with a jag that consists of 70% Shooters Choice solvant and 30% Kroil till they come out clean and then push dry patches. I have a bottle of Sweets for copper but hardly ever use it. I still use a lead remover (with the ole choreboy trick) for a couple of lever guns that I enjoy using more the last 10 years or so. I hate arguing over brass and this has helped on crowded days at the range. I am also firing a couple of wheel guns more for the same reason as well. I also keep a silicone rag with Hoppes 9 oil or mineral oil on it to wipe down the surface of any firearm I might have put finger prints on. I guess I could simplify it to Hoppes 9 solvant, mineral oil, LSA/CLP and red n tacky but what fun would that be?! Cheers...
We use LPS products on aircraft at work. I've seen interior structures still protected that were sprayed years ago. After seeing how well it works, I use LPS 2 to lube and have stored a shotgun for 3 years with LPS 3. Thanks for getting the word out!
I am an Aircraft Maintenance Tech for a Major Airline, LPS makes a product called LST. It's primarily a Penetrant. It also lists rust removal. I use Aerokroil for my penetrant needs and 1st pass barrel cleaning. LST is a crazy fantastic rust remover with no chlorinated solvents in its mix. We soaked/submerged a rusty black powder cylinder for about 30 min, hit it with a tooth brush, wiped it down, blew it with 90 psi, and voilà - It looked brand new.
Great video. Glad to get some firsthand information from guys who do a lot of shooting about a wide range of cleaning & lubrication products. I've used traditional Hoppe's products and CLP for a long time but I'm going to try some of the products you discussed and see how they run.
I love Lucas oil extreme duty gun oil! It’s the blue tinted oil and man that stuff works great! I use it on my ar15 and my handguns never had any issues with corrosion or any rusting either
I heard some folks using a synthetic, high mileage, motor oil on their guns (guessing for lubrication purposes). If i remember correctly, they recommended Mobile1 10w-40 high mileage synthetic oil. Lil goes a long way and it's cheap! Thoughts on this? Haven't tried this yet since i still have plenty of oil, specific to firearms...
I use Hoppe's Elite Cleaner(similar to MPro7), lucas gun oil or mobil synthetic motor oil is what i use....the bottom line is that there are alot of good products out there.....
Lucas Syn Gun oil and the Mobil 1 route as lube for Glocks and similar pistols works great. I did some of my own testing with two of my Glocks that I purchased brand new in the same caliber; my Gen 4 G17 and 19. Since New I used A few drops of Lucas on contact points after every cleaning on my 17 and regular R.E.M. oil on the 19. They each have around the same 1600-1800 round count at this point, and the Rem oiled 19 has typical Glock barrel wear and slight noticeable wear on the rails however the Lucas treated 17 still looks nearly unfired at this point. It's been my lube of choice for everything except my antique safe queens for a while now.
Simple Green cut with 50% water for cleaning. Either Ballistol or Rem Oil for lubrication and rust prevention. Rem Oil and Simple Green is pretty cheap and widely available. Ballistol if you really want a non-toxic lubrication alternative. Hell, just plain medical grade mineral oil would be good if you were worried about that.
Dude, during OIF 3, I asked supply for some CLP for the Fifty, he handed me a tiny bottle that didn't do the job. went to the motor pool and got some engine oil
Corrosion X is great stuff for the outsides of the firearm BUT I love Hoppes Elite gun oil most for my bores .Not no. 9(aka white kerosene) and not the spray crap either. The actual elite oil(comes in a little black plastic squeeze bottle) I use it on my 30'06 with a match barrel. It is all I use and all I will use on my bores. Out of all I've tried, it worked best. Used rem oil and within 4 hours I had rust on the barrel of an old 12 gauge(Man was I ever pissed). Trashed that crap, stuck with hoppes elite and its all I buy now.
I highly recommend M-pro 7 LPX oil. Great rust protection and lubrication. It's just a little bit thicker than Break Free CLP, so it'll stay where you put it a lot longer (every oil runs over a long enough time in my exp.), but it still doesn't gum up or freeze. Also works as a general CLP, although I wouldn't recommend using exclusively CLP for cleaning anyway.
I used to use Ballistol as a C.L.P. exclusively. Then a few years ago an old timer I know let me use his Clenzoil. That’s all I use now. For me, it’s the best!
Came here for the gun tips stayed for the truck fuse box fix imma try strike hold thank u good sir I have been struggling with corrosion in my f150 and seems to be the fix I've been looking for love the channel keep it up!
I use strictly ballistol on any and all of my rimfire. Pistols , revolvers, rifles both semi as well as my 40x, model 52 and my Anschutz. IMHO it cannot be beat at these applications.
Same here. The indoor range I visit always verifies guns at unloaded before you check in. The other day the guy opened the gun case, took a sniff and said, "Ballistol." ...Yep.
I've talked to a lot of people on this and I've never realized how many products there were as far as gun oil. Since I was a kid the only thing I've ever really used was G96. Most people have never heard of it which was a complete shock to me
Hey Eric, you guys are the best. I found a new use for Strike Hold. I use Mr. Beams battery operated motion lights for security on my property. In some cases, water gets in through the seals and the lights stop working. I just took a malfunctioning light down tonight and sprayed the circuit board and connections inside the casing with strike hold as you suggested....it started working in 5 minutes, like new! Pass it on, just like you guys said.
Great review. Good and straight with professional experience. I have tried EEZOX and love this stuff. I use it on knives and a rust preventative on the out side of my pistols. Does not leave an oily feel nor does it attract dirt or dust. A bit pricey and hard to find. Highly recommended.
At the aircraft engine rebuilding shop I used to work at in Florida, we used a product called SP 350 to coat and protect engine cores after being honed before reassembly. I once pulled an old worn out core off the top shelf and asked my boss about it since it would never see service again I wanted to use it for a table. The bores of that Lycoming O320 we're every bit as clean and rust free as the day it was sprayed years prior to me working there.
3 parts royal purple 5w-30 and 1 part royal purple synchromax, shake well before use! Cyclic rate of my ar15 is noticeably increased because of the very slick BCG and ALL contaminants wipe off with ease! This stuff has a much higher heat resistance than gun oil and truly penetrates the metal for long term penetration/lubricity. How do I know this? I left the old oil filter o-ring and caused a blowout at the filter. All the oil went to the ground and I had to drive 45 minutes home with no motor oil. No issues as a result of this, redid the oil change and continued on. I am completely sold on the quality of royal purple.
Spushed same I got the Walmart royal purple 10 30 I hope it works when I rack it it sounds really good also when I put the clip in it makes that crack sound very good click in new to the Ar platform
I mix motor oil with wheel bearing grease to a honey consistency. Sticks to all bearing surfaces and slick as an ice cube over a mirror. Much much cheaper than the boutique lubes.
I will have to try mixing them. I have been using 0W20 synthetic as some recommend it and I bought it for my daughter's car as the manual says to use that specific weight and to use synthetic. I use a thin layer of synthetic bearing grease on the wear points on the frame rails and a few drops of oil spread across the slot in the slide so in a way a have been mixing the two. I use brake cleaner for the barrel only. I may look into using Ed's Red or a variation of it.
LPS has to be one of my favorite oils, used to use it for just about everything in my uncles ultralight engine shop from freeing stuck bolts to using it as an engine fogging agent because some people wouldn't use the engine for months until their airframe project was done. Also it has a really sweet scent to it, which I find to be somewhat pleasant.
I use Frank's red hot I put that shit on everything
cool! i use sriracha!
has to be huy fong
Chulula sauce, the best!
justin, that was awesome.
blaire's muerte death sauce. 45k scoville, but tastes good enough on its own that it would be a good sauce even without the heat. Amazing sauce once you get used to the heat. Franks is easily my favorite low-heat sauce though.
I use coconut oil for that refreshing tropical breeze at the range.
Blake • It’s veeegan
While listening to Jimmy Buffet?
Good for tan lines also
Good choice i used piña colada in the summer.
Genius. Gotta have cheeseburger in paradise playing in the background 👌
I never served in combat when I was in the army, but done a lot of live fire training, and blank round. with miles gear. My squad was on a combat training operation. Not a drop of oil in the squad gun bag. We were old school back in the 70 's. Running a scout squad with M 151 1/4 tons with M 60 mounted. No oil no problem. Motor oil worked and got us through the operation.
Ballistol was also used as first aid for cuts and scrapes - there is still a first aid version - and it's also sold in a form to apply to pets' fur to keep it smooth and glossy.
Looks like that can of ballistol has been around since WWI!
Are you in your 50's, 60's, 70's... Thumbs-up if you remember the smell of Hoppe's #9
from childhood, it still smells wonderful doesn't it!! Those really rare/special days when you were a kid out with dad and brother...and dad said "yeah, OK lets do that" when you ask if we can get the .22 out and do a little shooting. Then, cleaning the gun together that evening. I really miss my dad, but he's kind there with me when I'm cleaning my guns...with Hoppe's #9 :-)
Ballistol, 5W-20 Synthetic, and Wheel Bearing Grease. With these 3 you can take care of any firearm.
But, none of these will clear out copper fouling.
Would've been funny if you had a bottle of Astroglide on the table and just never mentioned it or referred to it in any way. ...comedy...
And put a paintball gun on the back wall
Will let u put a Cadillac in the doghouse lmao
I mean there is a lube called gun oil. Theat would have been funny to see how many could spot it
Or have a generic looking can that reads:
ACME GUN OIL
Astroglide can make a plane fit through a garden hose
I was a service Tech in the Printing industry and can vow for use of Kroil.
Best penetrating oil I ever used. I took a small container with me all over the world for disassembly of corroded parts.
100% concur on the Kano kroil. Only product that actually worked when I was trying to replace my XD45 sights. Those things were in there so damn tight. I've also used it to free up lots of other rustlocked stuff, including brake caliper bolts. Just be careful not to spill it, especially on wood veneer where it will get under that in a heartbeat.
IMO, Ballistol is the best considering it's endless number of uses and non-toxicity.
Ballistol in my experience and opinion is the best and most versatile. Not just for firearms and metal but anything.
Not very good in cold weather, I had some in my magazine and it gumed-up and failed to feed.
@@elendal I don't think you're supposed to put that in magazines lol
@@bryananderson3772lmaooooooooooooooooo
Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil works really well as a lubricant and protectant. I use it in my ARs and I've preserved my Mosin in it. And a quart last a long time. I use the left overs from my car's oil changes.
I use Full Syn 5w30 on mine and people respond as if it were going to explode because it don't have special overpriced gun oil on it.
I’m using Mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage motor oil. And it’s like eight bucks a quart.
Iraqveteran8888 and Hickok45 are my go to channels for honest reviews on gun related stuff.
I have been using Weapon Shield oil and grease for several years now. It's never failed me, plus the grease smells like cinnamon which is always a pleasant surprise after smelling something like Ballistol which smells like dirty gym socks.
Huh??? Ballistol 🇩🇪 smells like 🌲 or some black licorice. Its non toxic, CFC free. I've cleaned guns & 🔪 since 1997 or so.
Does smell like dirty socks mixed with black licorice. Not bad stuff however exited to try this weapon shield that so many rave about.
@@DavidLLambertmobileI think you just can’t smell it anymore
Ballistol is the best. I use it to clean, lubricate and protect. Love it!
When I use ballistol I get very little copper cleaning. I use hoppes #9 for cleaning. Ballistol after cleaning.
Ballistol is handy around the home 🏡 or camp 🏕. Its non toxic, no fumes, good for wood, metal, plastic. Fly fishing, bikes, boats. 🚤
Hickok45 converted me to Ballistol, I don’t think I’ll ever switch to anything else!
Yeah, he loves that stuff!
@Blueskies Hickok45 loves Ballistol. I prefer Hoppes #9 followed by a very light film of mineral oil, as per GunBlue490, my most trusted old-timer on TH-cam.
I use Ballistol spray or Froglube Extreme. Either version can do very well. No harsh fumes, no crud, non toxic.
Ballistol smells so bad my wife won't let me use it so I use mineral spirits for cleaning and mineral oil to lube and preserve
@@boricuaarecibo9259 That bad? I'm disappointed to hear that. I was planning to use that to clean up after lead free ammunition because I've heard it's so corrosive.
Hickok45 has recommended Ballistol enough that I was convinced. It gives me the cleanest bores of any product I've used, and it lubricates well
Greg Camp That's what i use too. It does the trick for everything...
🖖🏻🇫🇷😎🇫🇷🤪🇫🇷🖖🏻
To be fair he probably recommends ballistol because it was the one product that has lasted throughout the decades along with him. Only other one that might be as old is hoppes but people complain about it having a strong odor.
Greg Camp I heard H45 uses it for deodorant also
use mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 :]
LPS 3# turns hard after a few years, I found that out on an old .22 marlin I had. I pulled it out from the back of the safe, loaded it , pulled the trigger, and the trigger stayed back, and the gun failed to fire. Took it apart, and the LPS had all got like tar. I use to use LPS #3 on all my AR's, but I fired and cleaned those guns all the time. Now I use Synthetic Automatic Transmission fluid as a CLP. ATF is loaded with detergents, and cleans up everything real nice. I have worked on friends guns and had trigger groups absolutely caked with dirt, oil, dried WD40, Garand grease etc. I just soak them down with ATF, brush with a small nylon brush, blow dry them with an air hose, and re-assemble. Works MINT ! I have a Hoppes #9, and some Remoil sitting on the shelf for 15 years now, never use it anymore.
Yep tried a couple of different oils and nothing beats engine oil IMO. ATF maybe slightly better due to it's better colder climate properties though 5-40w engine oil is plenty thin in pretty extreme negative temperatures. I just can't handle the smell and the stained clothes.
Read an article a while back that JMB designed the 1911 to run on sperm whale oil.....because this was the Supreme oil at the time....Dextron 3 ATF is basically man made sperm whale oil......have been running it on all my firearms and have yet to have a problem.....I use it as a preservative and also lubricant or CLP as you will....try it, if you dont like it... wipe it off and go back to what you were using.....cheap and available everywhere....
My brother and I have used Eezox for years and find it consistently excellent on all of our guns. We have never had a problem with cleaning, rust, corrosion, staining or long-term storage with antique and modern guns in all finishes. Yes, price is an issue but not a big deal in the scope of protecting your investments.
Historic issue: Originally sold in plastic bottles the volatile components would evaporate through the bottle over a period of 3 -10 years. The product is no longer sold in plastic bottles.
Agreed. If you need a bit more lubricative properties, just leave a slightly thicker film. I use it on everything metal., including nickel plating with no problems. As long as the cleaning component is allowed to completely evaporate. It does not burn, gum, or freeze.
As a test I soaked some bamboo skewers in BALLISTOL, BREAKFREE and EEZOX. The EEZOX soaked skewer smoldered and took significantly longer to burn than the control, or the sticks soaked in other formulas.
Remoil has come in last in every test I've ever seen for rust prevention. It also has mediocre lubricating properties and leaves a nasty oily film on everything.
Ballistol is a surprisingly good all-in one. It removes lead and powder and restores wood/leather/rubber and does ok at preventing rust.
Very curious about the eezox, it scored very high in several scientific tests. I've heard it's good at cleaning too but I haven' seen any tests. Going to be picking some up soon.
Hoppe's no.9 is one of the best at removing lead and copper and also displaces water. The hoppe's oil is one of the better rust preventers. Together the hoppes products do a better job than any of the CLP's I've seen.
I've had exactly the opposite experience with rem oil. It works very well on my guns and knives as rust prevention and it lubes well
@@rustyyates421 it's still oil it's going to do what oil does. It just doesn't do it as well as all the other oils on the market. For like a dollar more you can upgrade to hoppes. Their oil was middle of the pack and their cleaner was one of the best.
I tend to recommend the ballistol because well it's not quite as good as Hoppe's, it's still one of the better cleaners and lubricants and protectants. But most of all it doesn't damage anything. You don't have to worry about getting it on your plastic or rubber or your leather... you can clean your boots with it if you want.
CLP is with the military uses and it's pretty good.
But I always try to steer people away from Bramwell because in objective test it does terribly, and in my subjective test when I put it on a pellet gun and kept it in my trunk for a couple of days, it rusted to shit.
Guns are expensive, spend the extra dollar to protect them properly.
@@JC-fj7oo m pro 7 is an excellent cleaner on guns and doesn't hurt the plastic and has no oder . It works as well as hoppes and is around the same price. But as I said ,it is a pretty much a cleaner. I can't find ballistol in the area I live in for some reason. I would have to order it online I guess. Still I find rem oil to do about as any I've used. Maybe you have to use it more often but it seems to work Thanks
I never cared for Remoil .CLP I use now and I used WD-40 for decades for rust prevention and it worked real good .
I never cared for Remoil .CLP I use now and I used WD-40 for decades for rust prevention and it worked real good .
I'm an aircraft mechanic and I use LPS 1 and 2, kroil, and lubriplate all the time
Synthetic 10W-30. Used it for years.
Yep, pull it right off the dipstick if I have to.
DEUCE AND GUNS
Damn straight!
DEUCE AND GUNS motor oil is horrible for guns.
verteup Found the gun oil salesman! :)
verteup I've used synth motor oil for years without issue. Figured if it can protect engines, it should work well. I am NO expert though so always interested in different opinions. Have you quantified specific problems with motor oil? Thanks much.
Picked up some Weapon Shield a while back, and have been using it with good results. Not exotically expensive, like some of the other products, and a little goes a long way. That being said, be careful when you use it. It tends to run when you apply it.
Back in the 80's, Eezox was the cheapest, It was about $3.00 a Can at gun stores. There was always a display Case box in every Gun shop with "Hey!! quit wasting money, Eezox does it all",, In Washington (The Seattle area) it didn't sell well. It does work though as advertised, I just think that they hiked up the Price So people will say in their thoughts "Man this stuff is really expensive,, Must work the best" This sort of thing.
***** Funny thing, A Realtor will have you pull your house from the Market if you are not getting any bites on your price, And the figuring in that is about the Quality of People you attract with your price. He / She will list it again at even a higher price in a few Months and see if people with the income who could afford your old price will be willing to pay even more for it. ( I'm not stating whether or not there is people better than others out there ) It's just a Marketing Scheme. They call it Steering the would be Buyer. Dave.
Gentlemen, As an "Old" Nam armored cavalry platoon leader, I have thru the years found some very interesting guidance, directions, "mandates" about firearms cleaning. Seems the advice is as varied as the persons experience, training and/or deployments, etc. So my two cents! IMOP, cleaning, lubing an AR requires different methods than cleaning/lubing todays modern semi-auto pistols. Reason being, the AR gas-impingment system changes everything! That hot gas going into the upper-receiver/BCG will dry out the lubricant rather quickly depending on your sustained fire-rate. The M16A1s used in my unit were handed down for 3+ years. Most, if not all were very worn (shiny bolt cams, crooked retaining pins, locking-lugs, etc.). Troopers usually burned thru 10-20 mags per firefight (20 rd mag, but filled with 18-19 rds). Some auto, but mostly semi-auto. Remember, the A1 model had chromed chamber n barrel. Extraction issues basically eliminated! Cleaning it out on a mission? Snatch that BCG out, wipe it down with your current sweaty, stinking oily cut-up OD t-shirt, lube it up real good with some LSA, pop it back in, ready to go! You could really go wild and run a patch thru the bore, but unless you're dragging it thru some mud, not necessary. Fancy cleaning items? Pipe cleaners, tooth brushes, with the usual issued cleaning rod/brass brush. How about gasoline or diesel fuel when we ran out of gun solvent (which was in the usual green can, maybe Hoppes?) Out of LSA? how about the latest technological lube? Oh what, use 30wt diesel oil? Oh yeah, in a heart beat. Back from a search n destroy mission; re-arm, fuel up, pull vehicle and weapon maintenance, stuff yourself and hope some water is remaining for a very quick gravity fed cold "shower". Sleep like a dead man, because you're next up for another 7-14 day mission. Sorry, I ramble, but in conclusion, to my knowledge, my troops had total confidence in their 16 to go bang when it was necessary. They were clean, but our Drill Instructors would definitely would have a stroke?
As far as care/cleaning of our modern semi-auto pistols. DoD testing requirements for the M9, M17 and the like, include extensive climate variations, FTFs monitoring after filthy conditions, etc, but with today superior ammo, propellants, high-grade metals and factory tolerances, I think we go a little crazy about maintaining these terrific firearms available to us today.
That said. Keep up the great dialogue. May our 2d amendment survive this current attack!
You two crack me up every time. I keep forgetting to get that CLP. I'm saving this one. I now have a video of ALL the gun cleaners. Thanks man!
My Armored Cav Troop CO introduced Break Free to the U.S. Army in 1980 and received an award as a result. He discovered the product at a hardware store near Fort Knox, where we were stationed, and started using it around the house and on his privately owned firearms. He was so impressed with how well it worked that he purchased, out of his own pocket, several drums of Break Free and we used it to clean and lube everything from the tubes of our 105mm tank main guns down to our .45ACP pistols with great success! I was so impressed with it that now, many years after my ETS, I still use it for damn near everything that needs cleaning and/or lubrication.
Ive got to disagree on rem-oil. I use and have used it in the past, but as a rust inhibitor it has let me down on a number of occasions. Ive liberally soaked guns in the stuff and still had them develop spotting days later in the minnesota winters.
After i finally threw in the towel on rem-oil as my main do all oil I switched to breakfree CLP and have had no issues for years. Rem oil still sticks around for lighter duty oiling on knives and things or as a general lubricant, but it is not my go to for corrosion resistance.
Same here on Rem Oil, and CLP failed a couple times on me too. Guns rusted in the safe. Since I started wiping down all my gun collection every six months with Ballistol, I haven't seen a speck of rust. Eezox worked well, too, but the smell gave me a headache and I believe I read it's fumes might be toxic long term. You can drink Ballistol, it's totally non toxic. Love it 1:10 with water for after corrosive ammo too.
I don't use anything other than Ballistol, for Black powder, corrosive primers. won't damage wood, or finishes. just the best.
I used Rem oil for years until I left a pistol in my car for about a month one hot and humid summer and it got a bunch of rust on it. I tried a couple other oils that I didn't quite like until I tried Weapon Shield about a year ago. After one year of using it I am still happy with it. Makes the guns clean up a hell of a lot easier when done shooting and is non toxic.
Ditto. Used Remoil on my SKS outer surfaces and got rust within a month. Breakfree CLP no rust. I use Kroil on old guns that have rusty spots that seem to lift off with a wipe. Ballistol goes for cleaning anything shooting surplus and corrosive ammo.
Weapon Shield has to be the best CLP I have ever used and very good on any metal to metal friction just goes away. Everyone should check out the friction tests on you tube. Just type in Weapon Shield in the search bar.
Sometimes it's just fun to hear you two. Been a fan for years. Keep it coming!
I'm law enforcement armored tech and trained for several manufacturers and the old FP 10 and weapon shield is all I use !
I was in a bind one time for gun oil and all I had was some Castrol synthetic 0-20w motor oil so I used it. Don't laugh it works great! Maybe because it is such low viscosity and is synthetic. 1 qt. of this lasts a long time. It cleans bores really good and does not leave a gummy oil residue on barrels and actions. I'm sold on this, been using it for years, and my M-39 gets much better mileage now that I use Castrol!!!!!!
you guy should make a video how to correctly clean and oil your guns
Theyd have to show on every individual gun. All of them are different
I use 3-1. Just a quick drop and it works great for a long time.
"It's got that ginger sweat" I almost spat out my cereal
I use Break Free on all my firearms. The aerosol foams nicely and completely coat the inside of the barrel. Removes more fouling than anything else I've used. The spray bottles are great for general cleaning. Spray it on a cloth for wiping surfaces down, a q-tip, or swab for tight spaces or a patch to use down the barrel. Then the squeeze bottles are better for lubrication after cleaning. The CLP in the aerosol and spray bottles is a thinner formulation than the CLP in the squeeze bottles. It makes it better for different areas.
My father and I have used 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil for lubrication and storage for as long as I have been shooting guns, never a failure on moving parts and no surface rust and Hoppes solvent for cleaning, our guns are like new.
thank you so much for serving eric i really appreciate it
Love EEZOX. It was the only thing that used to prevent rust at my old house on the lake. Great product, good lube, go to product.
For me I like to use Mobile 1 engine. The lightest weight available. It has a good detergent effect which I have come to love because of no range failures. It's a synthetic and extremely low VOC's so it doesn't dry or gel or cake.
Exactly. Made for high heat and moving parts.
I agree!
advanced full synthetic 5w-30 with GOJUICE Both are super great in cleaning and maintaining car engine and guns :]
I've used EEZOX on and off for close to 30 years. Don't know if it was mentioned in previous comments, but If I remember correctly, it does not play well with aluminum. And it wasn't to skin-friendly either. Many years ago, as strange as this sounds, people complained that it gave them wart-like skin bumps. One thing though... It was unbeaten in regards to corrosion-proofing your firearms.
I mostly now use Militec 1. Good stuff!
Be careful with Eezox.
It works great, but gave me an allergic reaction that almost had me going to the ER.
I’ve heard others say the same, just depends on the person.
As always, great video and well covered! Was disappointed to not see Rem oil on the table, but was glad you cleared that up! I've always been a fan of Rem oil. It's plentiful and does a great job for your average shooter. Cleaning and lubes is another one of those broad areas with so much to choose from. Keep up the great work!
hoppes 9, Mobil one, and wheel bearing grease.....all u need at 100th of the price
M Blake Jr Yup, been using mobile 1 synthetic 10w-30 for lube and its been great. I find wherl bearing grease to be a bit too thick though.
M Blake Jr I've been very pleased with mobile one full synthetic.
VODZ I use grease where the bolt rides and cam pin and a light film where the bcg rides. I use oil while shooting until I clean it again. The oil helps thin the grease and it sticks good
hindimuvi.
Yep, Hoppes 9 and wheel bearing grease is all I need most of the time.
I have used LPS#2, WD-40, Kroil, and PB Blaster on guns with excellent results. But you need to be careful about not getting lubricants and solvents on ammo. They can work their way between the bullet and casing and ruin the powder.
Penatrating oils may deactivate you primer. WD40 should not be used on cartridges. I would go further and say no penatrating out on magazines.
@@saltyroe3179 It might, if you soaked your ammo in it for a few days. I've had ammo get wet (with water) and still work fine. I never put penetrating oil on ammo, just the gun. It noticeably reduces surface friction on moving parts, and can easily be wiped off.
@@geraldscott4302 in early 1970s cleaned surplus .303 with WD40 . The result was about 50% failure of rounds to go off. This is when we found out that penatrating chemical gets to the primer and inactivates it.
Fortunately I was not relying on the amo.
I use pure linseed oil for my wood. Not boiled. The boiled has chemical in it. Little bit on a rag and wipe it in. Used for 50 years. For my metal parts, I use nothing but motor oil. After I clean everything, I wet a rag, squeeze it out, and rub it into everything. For the hard to access parts I use synthetic oil on a Q tip. Let sit for a few minutes and wipe it all off. I’ve never had rust, never had a malfunction due to dryness. In 1969 my armorer in the Army turned us onto motor oil, and showed us how to apply it. A tiny bit goes a long way. He said think about it...oil companies spend millions on research for oils that hold up until high friction and temps. I’ve been using it ever since. A quart lasts me about 5 years. Good luck
You guys should do a video on dry vs wet suppressors. I'm interested to see how much of a difference it makes.
Excellent video as always, gentlemen. I thought that the length was appropriate. Still miss our buddy Barry . . .
I have used ballistol and really liked it. I also use a lot of rem oil and have had wonderful results on performance and rust prevention with it as well. I am of the kind of person that likes to use one product that can clean, lubricate, and prevent rust. Probably why I like simple oil base products. I also don’t like brushes in my rifle barrels. I use a bore snake and it does a great job. When dooms day comes, I can use one product. 👍🏻
I use Rem Oil, Hoppes and Break Free CLP but will definitely check out some of the other products you guys have suggested. Thanks for the video!
I heard Rem Oil doesn't do much. Is that not true?
Rem oil is ok for rust prevention especially on the outside of the firearm but isn't the best for lubrication
Love Eezox!!!! I took it to a two week field problem. It rained non-fucking-stop. Easy to say there was a problem with rust. Little coat of it, let it set for about 15 seconds, and wiped it all off! My bottle of Eezox got passed around like a... well you get the picture!. The problem is it falls short as a lube. We used small portions of CLP to lube our weapons. At home I use FP-10 lube. I don't think I'll ever change!
Joseph Potter You aren't using it correctly and that's why it's not lubing well for you. You apply it and let it sit, and wipe it off later. Sounds like you weren't leaving it on long enough to impregnate the metal.
3 in 1 was the main choice for my dad and grandfather. Later in life, my dad started using Remoil and man, what a mistake that was! Oil wouldn't last, most of his guns had rusting. I've used 3 in 1 for 18 years, since I was a 12. No complaints yet, so no need to switch to anything else.
Bacon grease and liberal tears exclusively
Josh Andrews I actually have a bacon scented lubricant named liberal tears.
We had a major influx of liberal tears since the election, stuff is dirt cheap right now.
Too much salt in liberal tears.
pig lube.
Jonathan Weiss commies, liberals, what's the difference? besides one wants to control everyone and the other wAnts to be controlled
I've had excellent success with M-pro 7
They make LPX which in my view is a decent CLP for general cleaning, rust prevention, guns.
I like some of these products as well.
Strikehold rules for what I use it for as well as WD-40, Hosa Contact cleaner, Fader lube, and Gold contact enhancer for circuit boards and connections for my musical (guitar and recording) hobby.
For the most part, my main solvent I reach for is Hoppes 9 for scrubbing parts and bore, although I now have Weapons Shield solvent to test.
Additionally, I use Lucas contact cleaner for spraying trigger groups and bore blow back in the black rifles
I use Ballistol with hot water for black powder, rinse and use weapons shield to lube.
My main lube is Weapons Shield.
*Every season, I'll do a complete teardown, check parts for wear and replace if needed and give parts a bath soak in mineral spirits, rinse with hot water, shoot with compressed air and immediately spray thoroughly with CLP and wipe down as I reassemble using Weapons Shield oil and grease.
Ezzox is used to lube firearms long term storage that I dont fire or hardly ever.
I use Weapons Shield grease although I used to use Red N Tacky grease.
Navel Jelly is for extreme rust removal.
At the range, I carry Hoppes 9 solvent, Weapons Shield oil and grease, and a can of contact cleaner aerosol.
Out of habit, after firing a group, I run wet patches down the bore of my bench rifle(s) with a jag that consists of 70% Shooters Choice solvant and 30% Kroil till they come out clean and then push dry patches.
I have a bottle of Sweets for copper but hardly ever use it.
I still use a lead remover (with the ole choreboy trick) for a couple of lever guns that I enjoy using more the last 10 years or so. I hate arguing over brass and this has helped on crowded days at the range. I am also firing a couple of wheel guns more for the same reason as well.
I also keep a silicone rag with Hoppes 9 oil or mineral oil on it to wipe down the surface of any firearm I might have put finger prints on.
I guess I could simplify it to Hoppes 9 solvant, mineral oil, LSA/CLP and red n tacky but what fun would that be?!
Cheers...
We use LPS products on aircraft at work. I've seen interior structures still protected that were sprayed years ago. After seeing how well it works, I use LPS 2 to lube and have stored a shotgun for 3 years with LPS 3. Thanks for getting the word out!
Yes lps is the best going.
I am an Aircraft Maintenance Tech for a Major Airline, LPS makes a product called LST. It's primarily a Penetrant. It also lists rust removal. I use Aerokroil for my penetrant needs and 1st pass barrel cleaning.
LST is a crazy fantastic rust remover with no chlorinated solvents in its mix. We soaked/submerged a rusty black powder cylinder for about 30 min, hit it with a tooth brush, wiped it down, blew it with 90 psi, and voilà - It looked brand new.
My ex wife is a humid, frothing cesspool.
Hehehe
Mine too, I liberally applied Break Free and it has worked well for over 8 years now !!!
Yup, I can testify to that.
You were using the wrong oil..
We all know
Great video. Glad to get some firsthand information from guys who do a lot of shooting about a wide range of cleaning & lubrication products. I've used traditional Hoppe's products and CLP for a long time but I'm going to try some of the products you discussed and see how they run.
I love Lucas oil extreme duty gun oil! It’s the blue tinted oil and man that stuff works great! I use it on my ar15 and my handguns never had any issues with corrosion or any rusting either
I heard some folks using a synthetic, high mileage, motor oil on their guns (guessing for lubrication purposes). If i remember correctly, they recommended Mobile1 10w-40 high mileage synthetic oil. Lil goes a long way and it's cheap!
Thoughts on this?
Haven't tried this yet since i still have plenty of oil, specific to firearms...
I use Hoppe's Elite Cleaner(similar to MPro7), lucas gun oil or mobil synthetic motor oil is what i use....the bottom line is that there are alot of good products out there.....
I use synthetic motor oil as well on firearms, airguns, HVAC motors, door hinges etc. Use Ballistol for cleaning.
Lucas Syn Gun oil and the Mobil 1 route as lube for Glocks and similar pistols works great. I did some of my own testing with two of my Glocks that I purchased brand new in the same caliber; my Gen 4 G17 and 19. Since New I used A few drops of Lucas on contact points after every cleaning on my 17 and regular R.E.M. oil on the 19. They each have around the same 1600-1800 round count at this point, and the Rem oiled 19 has typical Glock barrel wear and slight noticeable wear on the rails however the Lucas treated 17 still looks nearly unfired at this point. It's been my lube of choice for everything except my antique safe queens for a while now.
No hoppe's no9? Lol I'm a believer since I was 12 years old. Oh and slip 2000.
Hoppe's 9 is an aphrodesiac, I swear
Hard to get rid of the smell too, even baking soda does little to deodor it
@@mbraxt11 lovely smell
@@kanaka118446 they offered air fresheners as a joke but quit selling them after 2014 or so....
I'm a big 🐸 Froglube Extreme fan but I bought a 4oz bottle of Slip 2000 EWL. It gets good reviews, + support from hunters, cops, tier 1 guys.
surprised not to see Weapon Shield..... im a huge fan of Break Free CLP also!
No Gunzilla? No Slip 2000? No Rand CLP? Or LPX?
Simple Green cut with 50% water for cleaning. Either Ballistol or Rem Oil for lubrication and rust prevention. Rem Oil and Simple Green is pretty cheap and widely available. Ballistol if you really want a non-toxic lubrication alternative. Hell, just plain medical grade mineral oil would be good if you were worried about that.
Dude, during OIF 3, I asked supply for some CLP for the Fifty, he handed me a tiny bottle that didn't do the job. went to the motor pool and got some engine oil
Corrosion X is great stuff for the outsides of the firearm BUT I love Hoppes Elite gun oil most for my bores .Not no. 9(aka white kerosene) and not the spray crap either. The actual elite oil(comes in a little black plastic squeeze bottle) I use it on my 30'06 with a match barrel. It is all I use and all I will use on my bores. Out of all I've tried, it worked best. Used rem oil and within 4 hours I had rust on the barrel of an old 12 gauge(Man was I ever pissed). Trashed that crap, stuck with hoppes elite and its all I buy now.
StrikeHold has always been my favorite!!! Great for rust resistance too!!!
I love this stuff. The hype is real.
I highly recommend M-pro 7 LPX oil. Great rust protection and lubrication. It's just a little bit thicker than Break Free CLP, so it'll stay where you put it a lot longer (every oil runs over a long enough time in my exp.), but it still doesn't gum up or freeze. Also works as a general CLP, although I wouldn't recommend using exclusively CLP for cleaning anyway.
I used to use Ballistol as a C.L.P. exclusively. Then a few years ago an old timer I know let me use his Clenzoil. That’s all I use now. For me, it’s the best!
still using Mobil 1 full synthetic since 2001 on rifles and handguns, and it's done wonders with the mileage...
I grew up watching my dad is 3&1oil and a light coat of Valvoline bearing grease works great
Hoppes 9 gun medic and on all my guns, on handguns I also add some additional hoppes 9 lube.
I used Gun Medic 🚑 about 4yr ago but moved away it after I noticed some strange green-blue film.
so far for my 1911 i have been using break free clp for cleaning and then extreme duty lucas gun oil for lubrication.
The original 1911 was lubed with sperm oil......ATF is the modern equivalent made by man.....
Came here for the gun tips stayed for the truck fuse box fix imma try strike hold thank u good sir I have been struggling with corrosion in my f150 and seems to be the fix I've been looking for love the channel keep it up!
I use strictly ballistol on any and all of my rimfire. Pistols , revolvers, rifles both semi as well as my 40x, model 52 and my Anschutz. IMHO it cannot be beat at these applications.
Same here. The indoor range I visit always verifies guns at unloaded before you check in. The other day the guy opened the gun case, took a sniff and said, "Ballistol." ...Yep.
😂😂😂😂 ginger sweat. love your videos guys
I want to see Chad's dad in a video at the farm! That would be cool. He sounds like a good old Man.
"ginger sweat". LOOOL
This is the only review I've seen, that compliments Rem oil for corrosion protection.
I can’t believe I watched an entire video on cleaners and lubricants and it was educational, thx guys.
legend has it if you spray Balistol in your mouth and face you can grow a beard like Erics
popacap21 and sound like Hickok45
lol that shit would be nasty, it smells like ass and eggs.
and get the shooting skills of mark from mark and sam after work
Who wants a half ass shitty beard
What's that? You WANT to get sprayed, sir, your on the wrong website! WE don't do that around here!!😂
"They gave it to some little elves..." LOL! Ok, has Chad been smoking crack again?
He was sniffing Ballistol!😂
Slide Glide to prevent galling and Weapon Shield everywhere else.
I've talked to a lot of people on this and I've never realized how many products there were as far as gun oil. Since I was a kid the only thing I've ever really used was G96. Most people have never heard of it which was a complete shock to me
Hey Eric, you guys are the best. I found a new use for Strike Hold. I use Mr. Beams battery operated motion lights for security on my property. In some cases, water gets in through the seals and the lights stop working. I just took a malfunctioning light down tonight and sprayed the circuit board and connections inside the casing with strike hold as you suggested....it started working in 5 minutes, like new! Pass it on, just like you guys said.
Great review. Good and straight with professional experience. I have tried EEZOX and love this stuff. I use it on knives and a rust preventative on the out side of my pistols. Does not leave an oily feel nor does it attract dirt or dust. A bit pricey and hard to find. Highly recommended.
Whatever happened to hoppes #9 oil?
Still works great
I think they're trying to show the stuff that's uncommon. Everybody knows hoppes9
That is a solvent. I don’t think they were really getting into those
@@hunteradkins7511 They have both solvent and oil. Hoppes calls all their stuff Hoppes #9 (solvent,oil, etc)
@@BushmasterRaZ Even more people know CLP, and the old-timers have death grips on their Ballistol. The Hoppe's omission was a bit odd.
Man from someone who sweats a lot Rem Oil is rubbish if you are using it on your carry piece it is hardly a step above water.
At the aircraft engine rebuilding shop I used to work at in Florida, we used a product called SP 350 to coat and protect engine cores after being honed before reassembly. I once pulled an old worn out core off the top shelf and asked my boss about it since it would never see service again I wanted to use it for a table. The bores of that Lycoming O320 we're every bit as clean and rust free as the day it was sprayed years prior to me working there.
3 parts royal purple 5w-30 and 1 part royal purple synchromax, shake well before use! Cyclic rate of my ar15 is noticeably increased because of the very slick BCG and ALL contaminants wipe off with ease! This stuff has a much higher heat resistance than gun oil and truly penetrates the metal for long term penetration/lubricity. How do I know this? I left the old oil filter o-ring and caused a blowout at the filter. All the oil went to the ground and I had to drive 45 minutes home with no motor oil. No issues as a result of this, redid the oil change and continued on. I am completely sold on the quality of royal purple.
Spushed same I got the Walmart royal purple 10 30 I hope it works when I rack it it sounds really good also when I put the clip in it makes that crack sound very good click in new to the Ar platform
Simple Ed's Red for the win.... Simple, effective, dead cheap.! (Y)
Some lubes have toxic chemicals, suggest to wear the neoprene gloves when cleaning.
26:26 this is a must watch!
I mix motor oil with wheel bearing grease to a honey consistency. Sticks to all bearing surfaces and slick as an ice cube over a mirror. Much much cheaper than the boutique lubes.
I will have to try mixing them. I have been using 0W20 synthetic as some recommend it and I bought it for my daughter's car as the manual says to use that specific weight and to use synthetic. I use a thin layer of synthetic bearing grease on the wear points on the frame rails and a few drops of oil spread across the slot in the slide so in a way a have been mixing the two. I use brake cleaner for the barrel only. I may look into using Ed's Red or a variation of it.
LPS has to be one of my favorite oils, used to use it for just about everything in my uncles ultralight engine shop from freeing stuck bolts to using it as an engine fogging agent because some people wouldn't use the engine for months until their airframe project was done. Also it has a really sweet scent to it, which I find to be somewhat pleasant.
@100GTAGUY That's wonderful.
Question: I can't find LPS-2 in any shops. Do you know which stores have it on their shelves?
i use Hopps for all of my guns.
I started in 2013 using Hoppes No9...1/2 n 1/2 with ATF transmission fluid
I miss the old man :-(
FireCrisco is great for eggs!
I been using ballistol for years works great.
Cleaned and oiled well. Also, throw a small desiccant packet in with gun socks or case. Always worked for me and I’m in Georgia.
Rem oil is very good. FN recommends CLP for the Five seveN pistol.