Andrew van Leeuwen I was totally dead, especially that I fell asleep searching for EEV Blog video with my pants and lights on. It was worth it for Clive xd but the meeting was nice, everything went smoothly
The last time I looked at how an emergency light worked I was in my teens and it was just a 120V AC (Canada) SPDT relay powering an incandescent 6 Volt light from a 6 Volt battery when the relay coil was not energized. Things sure changed since then. The way this one works is really smart.
On a typical shift we power-up and test all the lights then repair anything that needs repaired. While the show's running we can't work above the audience for safety, so we do walk round checks on our equipment and do thermal imaging checks on power distribution gear. After that we may have spare time waiting for things to go wrong, so I made some videos in that time. I'd have had to drop everything if a technical issue did occur.
It would be more useful if there was a "turn off delay" with a capacitor. Because sometimes you just need 20 seconds more light after turning the lights of (we all hit our toe on the bed post once).
So interested that I went and bought one. In the same box as yours but a very different lamp. 24 LEDs on a board with what looks like an aluminium backing. The driver circuit is on a seperate board with only 2 wires to the LEDs. This means that all the LEDs light up when in normal or "Emergency" use. The lamp is reated as 12W bit does not appear to be more than about six, I don't have a fancy meter to check it unfortunately. Would like to see a teardown of one of this newer style lamps.
Neat idea but one slight drawback if this lamp was used in a room with more than one lamp fitting on the same switched circuit. When the power is turned off the emergency light would come on because the sense circuit would see the other lamp(s) in circuit as a dc path between the terminals.
Tried using one on a 2 way switched circuit. Comes on when switched on as expected. Comes on, if switched on, during a power cut as expected. But comes on very dim when circuit not switched on and cutting mains power switches it off.
Dangit, now I want some of these!!! I was wondering when you'd next be influencing my future purchases!!! :D BTW, excellent show this year, watched it on the BBC, I was looking more at the lights and effects than the people in the show!!! :P
There are nightlights that do the same thing; Run at night, unless there's a power failure, at which point the device would still light up at night, but could be unmounted from the plug-in base to be used as a flashlight.
I have a cracking German made emergency light, its not intelligent but has a 3 way switch for light bulb mode, charging only or torch mode. proper smps and big lion cell, the neck of the bulb also extends to use as a carry handle, being e27 thread it unscrews easily and is quite handy if you don have emergency lighting in Everyroom and need to go outside without trying to bridge a bulb,
If you get some more, it would be interesting to see what would happen if you have 2 of those lights in parallel, like some living rooms have 2 lights on one circuit.
I doubt that the battery is 2.2Ah, those cost more than the entire bulb. It's probably around 1Ah. It's also interesting to note that lower quality 18650s weigh much less than good quality ones.
Quick question here. I bought about 30 or so of a similar model, different brand 7w but basically the same concept. If its been on for a while, after you switch it off it will remain on for a few minutes with a lower brightness and then shut off. Is this the capacitor draining that you explained or what could be causing this.
It was design, If the wall switch is off then no significant current will flow, but if it is on then current will flow through other appliances and circuits in the house and it will detect that and light.But,my concern is some bulbs doesn't off even switch is off. Why is that ?
Just curious have you had the opportunity to test the lamps running time on the battery?I could see these being very helpful in my county house where long power failures in inclement weather are the norm.
Two possibilities. Change the lithium cell for a higher capacity one and change the resistors used to limit the current to the LEDs so they run dimmer for longer. Another good idea would be to halve the value of the main dropper cap to run the lamp at a lower level to make the LEDs last longer, although that would also increase the recharge time
How good are they as a standard operation lamp for in and around the house? I like the way only a few LED's come on in emergency mode to increase the battery life. Clever idea.
Thank you Bigclive for your amazing video Is there any way to use this bulb as power failure light only? I need it to stay off and lights only when there is a power cut Thanks again
I would like to know this too. I have no need for a bulb to be burning the whole time. I wonder what happens if the "mains" LEDs were replaced by normal 1N4004s or similar? @BigClive ?
the backwards diode must be a zener allowing voltage to short through the resistor above a certain level . its a rather sexy voltage regulator. look at mee with my electrical hat on
I wonder what the crew thinks when Clive is sitting there in the corner, fumbling with something, talking to himself, weird contraption in front of him. Again and again.
what do you know number serial of ic with 5 connector? its like n type mosfet, but can using 220v~ to charge.. i have same type of lamp, but the schematic not many as you draw.. when ic was error, you can only using it for lamp, or cannot light out..
Either your first schematic is drawn incorrectly or the two 100-ohm resistors are in parallel, not series, for an effective resistance of 50 ohms. I also think you're correct that the "pointing the wrong way" diode is probably a zener diode to act as some kind of voltage limiter or a crude "crowbar" regulator. :)
Non practicing electronic technician here. In my mind it's most definitely a Zener diode. How else do you bring down the voltage from 220V (or 110V) to whatever 6V? DC the circuit uses? It's a very crude power supply configuration that I used myself a few times. 5 years too late but such is the workings of TH-cam.
I saw these and was thinking about getting a few, but realized that I don't really have a use for them... power outages in my area are _exceedingly_ rare, and when there are power issues, it's usually on the order of seconds or minutes; worst case I can think of was hours, and I have a plethora of flashlights and battery banks around, so these would probably just sit and the 18650s would eventually die from being topped off all the time and not work when I need them to in 4-5 years, lol
If it goes out when removed from the lamp holder then the issue is with the wiring. If there are other bulbs on the same circuit they will make it light.
+vgamesx1 Assuming it is a 18650, and not half filled with sand ;) Just my personal preference never to buy eBay-esque batteries. Allows me to sleep better at night.
I kind of feel the same way, also because of the circuit sensing ability which basically means it's connected straight to the mains, I know it *should* be safe, but it doesn't FEEL safe.
I regard it as a novelty. I'm not sure how much I'd trust it for continuous operation. At least not without some extra overcharge protection capable of handling the limited current at full open mains voltage.
In hindsight there is a potential extreme failure mode that I've now added in the video description and as a note that pops up on the video. If the LEDs in the charger tap point went open circuit, then when the charge control chip tried to open the circuit the voltage would fly up to near mains voltage across it and potentially cause failure. Worst case being the lithium cell continuing to charge until it failed due to extreme overcharging. That could be exciting.
I want to make my own emergency lamp using a TP4056 lithium battery charger. Any ideas on how to use the circuit to switch on you described with that module?
The absolute easiest way is to have a string of low current decorative lights connected all the time. Like ambient decorative lighting that stays on when the power fails.
Hello, I would like to ask a question. I currently using an emergency lamp just like yours. However when I put it on the socket, and it’s turn off, it’s dims. It doesn’t turn off. May I know the reason why.
It is a single switch and connected to a single lamp holder but the line runs along the wall. I’ve tried it with fittures and it dims too, but I do understand why it does that now. I do have a video to show you Thanks for the fast reply
Thank you Clive! I saw this at my local home improvement store and i had a heluva time trying to figure out how it would know if the switch was on or off.
Something I was wondering: can you use just a diode to make it so a circuit charges a battery, but the power can't feed back into the circuit? Or have I gotten something horribly wrong?
Yes, you can use a diode to prevent the charging circuit from draining the battery when it's not on. However, because of the voltage drop across the diode, you would have to run a separate battery voltage sense line to the battery terminal.
The wife is arguing with me because she says its a waste in the UK with reliable power. She asks if you know about future UK power supplies becoming unreliable if no nuclear power plants are brought online. lol I said it would be good for camping. that idea went down like a lead ballon
Since our fantastic national grid was given away to government buddies it has not been maintained properly and the future is actually looking quite bleak in terms of electrical reliability of supply. When you consider that electric cars are going to suddenly arrive en-masse then the increased power demand will result in the system being pushed over the edge.
+bigclivedotcom Indeed. Also there are alot of workers that are allowed to drill in the streets and you will have idiots that will break the cables instead of just replacing a water pipe so always be prepared
I would agree that a sudden influx of electric cars will possibly lead to power cuts. Lots of Nuclear power stations coming to the end of their lives and can't be extended any more. potentially problems in the future
bigclivedotcom Hey, do you think this is a safe lamp? I'm thinking about buying a few of those for my house. I wonder, is that little protection circuit attached to the battery, enough for over and under charge protection? Do you think it does the correct CC/CV charge cycle that an 18650 requires? What about the 18650 itself, it must be a very cheap one, should I replace it for a name brand, recovered from dead laptop battery but tested and in good condition? Is there any chance the board or the capacitor could be a fire hazard? Thanks. PS: (I have no smoke detectors, lol)
hi the A1SHB is MOSFET transistor there is no transistor under the number of A1SH6 i have E27 but they fault after shot period the causes first one 22mf 160VDC damaged another was some LEDS damaged when changed by another type of LED the high dc voltage capacitor is damaged after the bulb was worked about 20 minutes i checked the circuit it was likely same that you draw but they use 22mf 160vdc capacitor the source in my house is 220vac the idea of this bulb is very good but the age of it is very short
hello everyone, I am experiencing a problem with these in a plastic (non earthed) fitting in the BC base fitting -- light switch does not switch it off? any ideas?
it's fantastic the way you D engineer stuff. I've been pulling stuff apart. and electrocuting myself ... to the horror of my mother. 50 years ago. she actually installed safety proof child proof. wall sockets in the entire house. It did not pose much for a problem to me.. in retrospect I'm surprised I didn't burn the house down. I still play around with electronics I have a breadboard and it would be really cool if you did something on a breadboard I can copy it. simple timing circuit. 555 great video thanks a lot for all of them
Using a 4017b Decade Counter and a couple of 555 Astables, I managed to make a Multi-Tone Doorbell for my Project when I was at college. Got me 40/40 A* for it which was nice. You can add arrays of resistors to give you different sounds and such, as well as tunes. I just had a high to low pitched tune via Piezoelectric buzzer, but with a 741b as a driver for a loud speaker. You could probably play a host of tunes using it, but it would only have as many notes as you have outputs on your counter (on a 4017b there are 8 outputs). You could build an amplifier too. We made lots of different circuits in class & it was there I actually found I had a large interest in Electronics. Come away with a Grade B overall, missing out a few points in an exam left my with a C on one of them, bringing my average down. Still, I know my stuff. Power electronics is also interesting (but dangerous), and I moved onto larger stuff with Electrical Engineering, doing a brief stint at Torness Nuclear Power station.
Installed one in my bathroom, single pole, and it turns on all on its own after about 5 seconds of flipping the switch off and slowly gets brighter, hits full brightness at about another 5 seconds. What could be the issue? Bulb seems fine, can't open since it might void warranty. Any help would be appreciated. Love ur videos btw
Nope, no exhaust fans, one switch for 1 light socket. Placed it in a different light socket in a different area of the house and still same issue. I did noticed that when i turn off the the main circuit breaker(to simulate a power outage), it functions properly(doesnt go into emergency mode and you need to flip the switch to the "on" position to go into emergency mode and instant full brightness). Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.
Back in Dec 24, 2015 you did a video on fluorescent tubes. I was wondering if you might do a video explaining how the new electronic ballasts work. I use some that have you tie the 2 wires at each end together making them like a quick start tube and then hooking each end to a separate wire on the ballast. Here in the U.S. power companies are paying for many businesses to switch to the new ballasts (they send crews out to change them for free) because they use less electricity. They also claim to start quicker (they do in my experience) and claim to make the bulbs last longer (I can't say this is true or not). Can you shed some light on the subject?
The electronic ballasts have far better power factor management than inductive (traditional), and where you have a LOT of fluorescents this adds up in extra utility costs. The downside is reliability (as mentioned). They "may" be more "energy efficient" (in reality better control of reactive power), BUT their lifespan is pretty short especially where duty cycles are long (24-hour operation), and the recurrent costs of replacement start to add up. . . . . . :-(
Thanks for continuing through your 'down time' Clive. Ksssh "Roger that good buddy" - Who asked you? Do you mind you're interrupting quality youtube time here. Jeese, some people.
I took apart one of the new emergency lights i mentioned before, not just how its designed thats different but with the addition of a socket adapter with a button on it that lets you use the light by itself under battery power without having to be plugged in. The design is a bit different than the ones you've featured. The LED portion is "similar" to whats shown here, but theres a 4pin header thats part of the LED board, there is a circular circuit board with an 18650 in the middle of it thats fit into the base, the LED array can be removed as its only connected to a 4pin header. I took some pics if you'd be interested in seeing how it looks, though im not sure where i could upload them to that you'd be ok with.
theres a little light about 30 cm long w/ a fluorescent tube in the hallway of my flat and if the electricity ever goes off it lights up so it must have a battery in it. but then when the electricity comes back it stays on for about a day so idk how it works
It sounds like a common fluorescent emergency light. They are generally available in two types. Maintained - where they stay lit all the time or can be switched like a normal light. Non-maintained - where they only light in the event of a power failure.
My office has/had a bunch of these. They've been failing constantly since we bought the building about 10 years ago. I took apart a few of the failed ballasts way back when they first started to pop. They used what looked like a single very large NiCad battery cell, which explodes it's gooey mess into the ballasts, shorting out random components and killing the unit.
Emergency lights are often neglected for decades. The fluorescent ones often have a very short tube life because of the way they run them in the event of the power being off. There's a good chance they all need replaced.
holy shit clive, it's 1AM here and I have important meeting tomorrow why are you doing this to me?
How did the meeting go hehehhee
Andrew van Leeuwen I was totally dead, especially that I fell asleep searching for EEV Blog video with my pants and lights on. It was worth it for Clive xd but the meeting was nice, everything went smoothly
But sadly it was only 80% intelligent.
That lamp seems very useful. Probably should buy a few.
The last time I looked at how an emergency light worked I was in my teens and it was just a 120V AC (Canada) SPDT relay powering an incandescent 6 Volt light from a 6 Volt battery when the relay coil was not energized. Things sure changed since then. The way this one works is really smart.
Silence please, I'm vlogging.
No second takes for Clive!
Damn big man clive they let you film at work.
its very cool
On a typical shift we power-up and test all the lights then repair anything that needs repaired. While the show's running we can't work above the audience for safety, so we do walk round checks on our equipment and do thermal imaging checks on power distribution gear. After that we may have spare time waiting for things to go wrong, so I made some videos in that time. I'd have had to drop everything if a technical issue did occur.
bigclivedotcom I hope if i ever get a job it is as cool as that.
Q
I love waking up Saturday Mornings With Big Clive (could be a show name..)!
Namaskar,Thank you very much Sir.I made my own LED inverter Bulb with the help of your videos. Thanks again
Can you share the pcb design files and any other info
Please can you share it I request you
I am working in it since half a year but couldn't make it till now
It would be more useful if there was a "turn off delay" with a capacitor. Because sometimes you just need 20 seconds more light after turning the lights of (we all hit our toe on the bed post once).
Use your phone flashlight for that trip
So interested that I went and bought one. In the same box as yours but a very different lamp. 24 LEDs on a board with what looks like an aluminium backing. The driver circuit is on a seperate board with only 2 wires to the LEDs. This means that all the LEDs light up when in normal or "Emergency" use. The lamp is reated as 12W bit does not appear to be more than about six, I don't have a fancy meter to check it unfortunately. Would like to see a teardown of one of this newer style lamps.
By sheer coincidence there's one of the newer version in the pile of stuff here.
Look forward to your report. On looking at mine again is is really dim even compared to the Korean bulb with the square LEDs.
Neat idea but one slight drawback if this lamp was used in a room with more than one lamp fitting on the same switched circuit. When the power is turned off the emergency light would come on because the sense circuit would see the other lamp(s) in circuit as a dc path between the terminals.
How long does this battery last in emergency mode?
Tried using one on a 2 way switched circuit.
Comes on when switched on as expected.
Comes on, if switched on, during a power cut as expected.
But comes on very dim when circuit not switched on and cutting mains power switches it off.
Dangit, now I want some of these!!! I was wondering when you'd next be influencing my future purchases!!! :D
BTW, excellent show this year, watched it on the BBC, I was looking more at the lights and effects than the people in the show!!! :P
LED Uncle Fester light bulb!
that's the first thing that occurred to me
First time I've seen him exasperated, lol. "Never mind the important military show in the background, now this led lamp......."
What a useful light!
that's a very clever idea. Normal light and an emergency light all in one.
If the price is right, shed loads of these can be sold
Well they're about double the price of a typical china LED or roughly what you'd pay for one at your local store, so I'd say it's worth getting a few.
There are nightlights that do the same thing; Run at night, unless there's a power failure, at which point the device would still light up at night, but could be unmounted from the plug-in base to be used as a flashlight.
I have a cracking German made emergency light, its not intelligent but has a 3 way switch for light bulb mode, charging only or torch mode. proper smps and big lion cell, the neck of the bulb also extends to use as a carry handle, being e27 thread it unscrews easily and is quite handy if you don have emergency lighting in Everyroom and need to go outside without trying to bridge a bulb,
If you get some more, it would be interesting to see what would happen if you have 2 of those lights in parallel, like some living rooms have 2 lights on one circuit.
I would guess they would potentially interfere with each other. Especially if they were connected in reverse polarity to each other.
Since they output a small dc voltage you could have loads in parallel and perhaps run the rest of the lights with them?
It's a very tiny current at a few volts.
good to see some new vids man. thanks
Great explanation and it's working properly..Great work✌
The diode is there for a reason.
If the battery has failed while the light still has energy it will show
I literally only watch your videos for asmr
Hello
I doubt that the battery is 2.2Ah, those cost more than the entire bulb. It's probably around 1Ah. It's also interesting to note that lower quality 18650s weigh much less than good quality ones.
Quick question here. I bought about 30 or so of a similar model, different brand 7w but basically the same concept. If its been on for a while, after you switch it off it will remain on for a few minutes with a lower brightness and then shut off. Is this the capacitor draining that you explained or what could be causing this.
wow I never seen a light like that...I think I might end up buying a few
It was design, If the wall switch is off then no significant current will flow, but if it is on then current will flow through other appliances and circuits in the house and it will detect that and light.But,my concern is some bulbs doesn't off even switch is off. Why is that ?
Just curious have you had the opportunity to test the lamps running time on the battery?I could see these being very helpful in my county house where long power failures in inclement weather are the norm.
Two possibilities. Change the lithium cell for a higher capacity one and change the resistors used to limit the current to the LEDs so they run dimmer for longer. Another good idea would be to halve the value of the main dropper cap to run the lamp at a lower level to make the LEDs last longer, although that would also increase the recharge time
Hit like if u have come after watching #UIC video 😉
It is a zener diode to reduce the voltage
Nicely explained
From #Urindianconsumer
#Uicfamily
Uic ka bada fan lagta apko
😃
How good are they as a standard operation lamp for in and around the house?
I like the way only a few LED's come on in emergency mode to increase the battery life. Clever idea.
:Thumbnail: DRINK MORE OVALTINE
Thank you Bigclive for your amazing video
Is there any way to use this bulb as power failure light only?
I need it to stay off and lights only when there is a power cut
Thanks again
I would like to know this too. I have no need for a bulb to be burning the whole time. I wonder what happens if the "mains" LEDs were replaced by normal 1N4004s or similar? @BigClive ?
At least no code 10 was heard over the communicator.
Like the lamp but it was defective on delivery?
the backwards diode must be a zener allowing voltage to short through the resistor above a certain level . its a rather sexy voltage regulator. look at mee with my electrical hat on
I love it
Radio peeps just couldn't give you 15 more seconds! lol Thanks for another great video!
If this circuit add overcharging circuit for battery, can a risk in these circuit?
0:05 seconds in, Hey what is the CRI of this bulb mister Chinese manufacturer?
It's good!
...oh, cool.
Hi there Clive.
What can be wrong if the light doesn't turn off when no ac power is applied?
SO, to charge the battery, the light needs to be kept on, correct?
Finally! A light which lasts 2.
2 what? XD
I wonder what the crew thinks when Clive is sitting there in the corner, fumbling with something, talking to himself, weird contraption in front of him. Again and again.
dont forget the ipad recording his hands and his hat with an attached mic
They're used to me taking stuff to bits all the time.
Have you ever done a teardown on a stage or theater light?
nice video Clive
I don't think I would like the idea of having lights in my ceiling that use lithium batteries charged from a capacitive dropper.
what do you know number serial of ic with 5 connector? its like n type mosfet, but can using 220v~ to charge.. i have same type of lamp, but the schematic not many as you draw.. when ic was error, you can only using it for lamp, or cannot light out..
Hi bigclivedotcom. would you recommend that i get a digital 936 Station or the normal 936 Station?
Could you tell the price on that l.e.d. bulb with battery back up.,hopefully they ale a u s version ,good vlog.
Either your first schematic is drawn incorrectly or the two 100-ohm resistors are in parallel, not series, for an effective resistance of 50 ohms. I also think you're correct that the "pointing the wrong way" diode is probably a zener diode to act as some kind of voltage limiter or a crude "crowbar" regulator. :)
Non practicing electronic technician here. In my mind it's most definitely a Zener diode. How else do you bring down the voltage from 220V (or 110V) to whatever 6V? DC the circuit uses? It's a very crude power supply configuration that I used myself a few times.
5 years too late but such is the workings of TH-cam.
One year I'll get around to going to see the tattoo, one year...
there is any posiibility of that 25 leds turn on when the current is Off?
nice video, I can't wait until big man do a tour of all LED's in the house!!
Lets do that?
Cheers
I saw these and was thinking about getting a few, but realized that I don't really have a use for them... power outages in my area are _exceedingly_ rare, and when there are power issues, it's usually on the order of seconds or minutes; worst case I can think of was hours, and I have a plethora of flashlights and battery banks around, so these would probably just sit and the 18650s would eventually die from being topped off all the time and not work when I need them to in 4-5 years, lol
Curious which country you're in now :)
Can you send me a clear diagram with right components
led rechargeable bulb remains on even if switch is off. Which part needs to be replaced in the circuit?
If it goes out when removed from the lamp holder then the issue is with the wiring. If there are other bulbs on the same circuit they will make it light.
mr. clive what battery is it? and where is it connected?
How bright is the lamp, was it marked in Lumen's ?
Nifty gadget - must buy a few for home use :-)
What is the max impedance or resistance of the "lights out" path the bulb could work with?
They're very sensitive. Even megohms will pass enough current to make some of them light.
+Clive, do you trust that no-name 18650 being under constant power? I'm not sure I'd trust my house on the battery nor charging circuit ...
I mean, as long as you test it to make sure the cell doesn't exceed 4.2V or drops below 2.9V it should be perfectly safe.
+vgamesx1 Assuming it is a 18650, and not half filled with sand ;) Just my personal preference never to buy eBay-esque batteries. Allows me to sleep better at night.
I kind of feel the same way, also because of the circuit sensing ability which basically means it's connected straight to the mains, I know it *should* be safe, but it doesn't FEEL safe.
I regard it as a novelty. I'm not sure how much I'd trust it for continuous operation. At least not without some extra overcharge protection capable of handling the limited current at full open mains voltage.
In hindsight there is a potential extreme failure mode that I've now added in the video description and as a note that pops up on the video. If the LEDs in the charger tap point went open circuit, then when the charge control chip tried to open the circuit the voltage would fly up to near mains voltage across it and potentially cause failure. Worst case being the lithium cell continuing to charge until it failed due to extreme overcharging. That could be exciting.
From 3.7v to how much volt its boosting to glow during on battery??
I wish I could find these lamps in the g25 globe shape to put in my windowless bathroom.
Does this bulb has switch to turn from battery circuit to direct electricity circuit when electricity is their or its runs from charging circuit.
The charging is done from the lamp driver output.
Is the circuit drawn correctly for the battery led switching part? I think 1 M resistor to battery +be is not required.
It forms part of the MOSFET switching current path.
I want to make my own emergency lamp using a TP4056 lithium battery charger. Any ideas on how to use the circuit to switch on you described with that module?
The absolute easiest way is to have a string of low current decorative lights connected all the time. Like ambient decorative lighting that stays on when the power fails.
@@bigclivedotcom Thanks.
Aldi has had something like this in the past
Hello, I would like to ask a question. I currently using an emergency lamp just like yours. However when I put it on the socket, and it’s turn off, it’s dims. It doesn’t turn off. May I know the reason why.
It may be leakage due to other circuitry or a long wiring run. Are there other lights on the same switch or is it switched from multiple switches?
It is a single switch and connected to a single lamp holder but the line runs along the wall.
I’ve tried it with fittures and it dims too, but I do understand why it does that now.
I do have a video to show you
Thanks for the fast reply
thanks, very good 👍
Strange that there are no base resistors!
Thankyou for the explanation sir
Sir,please tell me the zener value,couse i have one,but the zener is short,thank you
whars the name of the show? and where?
Please can you help me make a Gerber file for it?
Thank you Clive! I saw this at my local home improvement store and i had a heluva time trying to figure out how it would know if the switch was on or off.
Where to buy?
hello mr clive thank you for the video
Something I was wondering: can you use just a diode to make it so a circuit charges a battery, but the power can't feed back into the circuit? Or have I gotten something horribly wrong?
You can with some batteries but not lithium, they need to be current controlled up until they reach 4.2V
google "how rechargeable batteries work" and "how battery chargers work"
Yes, you can use a diode to prevent the charging circuit from draining the battery when it's not on. However, because of the voltage drop across the diode, you would have to run a separate battery voltage sense line to the battery terminal.
Don't you just hate it when you're youtubing at work and you're interrupted by your actual job?
The wife is arguing with me because she says its a waste in the UK with reliable power.
She asks if you know about future UK power supplies becoming unreliable if no nuclear power plants are brought online. lol
I said it would be good for camping. that idea went down like a lead ballon
You never know when the power grid will break down so i recommend you still buy a few
Since our fantastic national grid was given away to government buddies it has not been maintained properly and the future is actually looking quite bleak in terms of electrical reliability of supply. When you consider that electric cars are going to suddenly arrive en-masse then the increased power demand will result in the system being pushed over the edge.
I should add that the very best emergency light you could possibly have is a head torch. That way everyone has light wherever they need it.
+bigclivedotcom Indeed. Also there are alot of workers that are allowed to drill in the streets and you will have idiots that will break the cables instead of just replacing a water pipe so always be prepared
I would agree that a sudden influx of electric cars will possibly lead to power cuts. Lots of Nuclear power stations coming to the end of their lives and can't be extended any more. potentially problems in the future
bigclivedotcom Hey, do you think this is a safe lamp? I'm thinking about buying a few of those for my house. I wonder, is that little protection circuit attached to the battery, enough for over and under charge protection? Do you think it does the correct CC/CV charge cycle that an 18650 requires? What about the 18650 itself, it must be a very cheap one, should I replace it for a name brand, recovered from dead laptop battery but tested and in good condition? Is there any chance the board or the capacitor could be a fire hazard? Thanks. PS: (I have no smoke detectors, lol)
This is the only capacitive dropper version I've seen. All the other ones I bought had a switching power supply in them and seem to be safer.
sir,ckt diagram is not clearly image......plz clear image ans apparatus rating....
Why have two resistors in parallel? What's wrong with just one?
It's very common. Presumably to spread the load between the two resistors.
+bigclivedotcom +Roberto Gatti Thanks, that makes sense.
1:25 my gf is about to get the magic trick of her life
does it stays brighter for 3 hrs with battery or does it fade
It will gradually get dimmer.
hi
the A1SHB is MOSFET transistor there is no transistor under the number of A1SH6 i have E27 but they fault after shot period the causes first one 22mf 160VDC damaged another was some LEDS damaged when changed by another type of LED the high dc voltage capacitor is damaged after the bulb was worked about 20 minutes i checked the circuit it was likely same that you draw but they use 22mf 160vdc capacitor the source in my house is 220vac the idea of this bulb is very good but the age of it is very short
hello everyone, I am experiencing a problem with these in a plastic (non earthed) fitting in the BC base fitting -- light switch does not switch it off? any ideas?
Do you have more than one light on that switch? Is it an ordinary switch or an active one?
it's fantastic the way you D engineer stuff.
I've been pulling stuff apart. and electrocuting myself
... to the horror of my mother.
50 years ago.
she actually installed safety proof child proof. wall sockets in the entire house.
It did not pose much for a problem to me.. in retrospect I'm surprised I didn't burn the house down.
I still play around with electronics
I have a breadboard and it would be really cool if you did something on a breadboard I can copy it.
simple timing circuit.
555
great video thanks a lot for all of them
Just check our Julian Ilett he has 555 timer videos
Using a 4017b Decade Counter and a couple of 555 Astables, I managed to make a Multi-Tone Doorbell for my Project when I was at college. Got me 40/40 A* for it which was nice.
You can add arrays of resistors to give you different sounds and such, as well as tunes. I just had a high to low pitched tune via Piezoelectric buzzer, but with a 741b as a driver for a loud speaker. You could probably play a host of tunes using it, but it would only have as many notes as you have outputs on your counter (on a 4017b there are 8 outputs).
You could build an amplifier too. We made lots of different circuits in class & it was there I actually found I had a large interest in Electronics. Come away with a Grade B overall, missing out a few points in an exam left my with a C on one of them, bringing my average down. Still, I know my stuff.
Power electronics is also interesting (but dangerous), and I moved onto larger stuff with Electrical Engineering, doing a brief stint at Torness Nuclear Power station.
d6 must be " digital" transistor.
Too bad they arent in warm white. i changed the outer ring in mine to warm white and added protection to the battery.
Installed one in my bathroom, single pole, and it turns on all on its own after about 5 seconds of flipping the switch off and slowly gets brighter, hits full brightness at about another 5 seconds. What could be the issue? Bulb seems fine, can't open since it might void warranty. Any help would be appreciated. Love ur videos btw
Do you have a fan in your bathroom that is connected with the light so it runs when the light is on? It will prevent these from operating correctly.
Nope, no exhaust fans, one switch for 1 light socket. Placed it in a different light socket in a different area of the house and still same issue. I did noticed that when i turn off the the main circuit breaker(to simulate a power outage), it functions properly(doesnt go into emergency mode and you need to flip the switch to the "on" position to go into emergency mode and instant full brightness). Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.
Back in Dec 24, 2015 you did a video on fluorescent tubes. I was wondering if you might do a video explaining how the new electronic ballasts work. I use some that have you tie the 2 wires at each end together making them like a quick start tube and then hooking each end to a separate wire on the ballast. Here in the U.S. power companies are paying for many businesses to switch to the new ballasts (they send crews out to change them for free) because they use less electricity. They also claim to start quicker (they do in my experience) and claim to make the bulbs last longer (I can't say this is true or not). Can you shed some light on the subject?
They don't tell you they're much less reliable.
Magnetic ballasts are MUCH more reliable. We have some 70's original magnetics still running like new with ORIGINAL tubes.
good to know. I would still like to know how they work as far as connecting both pins of the lamp together.
And in my mind the perfect example for explaining how a choke limits current. J.
The electronic ballasts have far better power factor management than inductive (traditional), and where you have a LOT of fluorescents this adds up in extra utility costs. The downside is reliability (as mentioned). They "may" be more "energy efficient" (in reality better control of reactive power), BUT their lifespan is pretty short especially where duty cycles are long (24-hour operation), and the recurrent costs of replacement start to add up. . . . . . :-(
Thanks for continuing through your 'down time' Clive. Ksssh "Roger that good buddy" - Who asked you? Do you mind you're interrupting quality youtube time here. Jeese, some people.
Good jobs tx
I took apart one of the new emergency lights i mentioned before, not just how its designed thats different but with the addition of a socket adapter with a button on it that lets you use the light by itself under battery power without having to be plugged in.
The design is a bit different than the ones you've featured.
The LED portion is "similar" to whats shown here, but theres a 4pin header thats part of the LED board, there is a circular circuit board with an 18650 in the middle of it thats fit into the base, the LED array can be removed as its only connected to a 4pin header. I took some pics if you'd be interested in seeing how it looks, though im not sure where i could upload them to that you'd be ok with.
nice
por favor donde desscargo el esquema?
Tome una captura de pantalla del esquema del video.
theres a little light about 30 cm long w/ a fluorescent tube in the hallway of my flat and if the electricity ever goes off it lights up so it must have a battery in it. but then when the electricity comes back it stays on for about a day so idk how it works
Maybe it stays on until the battery is fully charged?
it lights up because the natural sunlight charges the chemical fluocent stuff up. when charged it will glow and slowly discharge
It sounds like a common fluorescent emergency light. They are generally available in two types. Maintained - where they stay lit all the time or can be switched like a normal light. Non-maintained - where they only light in the event of a power failure.
My office has/had a bunch of these. They've been failing constantly since we bought the building about 10 years ago. I took apart a few of the failed ballasts way back when they first started to pop. They used what looked like a single very large NiCad battery cell, which explodes it's gooey mess into the ballasts, shorting out random components and killing the unit.
Emergency lights are often neglected for decades. The fluorescent ones often have a very short tube life because of the way they run them in the event of the power being off. There's a good chance they all need replaced.