Is The Scarpa Booster ACTUALLY A Sport Climbing Shoe? | Climbing Daily Ep.1810
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2024
- Today Teresa reviews the Scarpa Booster climbing shoe. Known predominantly as a bouldering shoe she takes a look at how it performs on a sport climb. Can the Booster work on a sport route as well as it handles hard boulders?
Check out the Scarpa Booster at the EpicTV shop: bit.ly/3uhbCkJ
Matt's Booster review: bit.ly/3cFW0RP
Follow @epictvclimbing
Instagram: bit.ly/2iovWz1
Tik Tok: bit.ly/2yQNL4c
Facebook: bit.ly/3dKpI66
Twitter: bit.ly/2Ww38VP
Twitch: bit.ly/2UbBgYv
Is The Scarpa Booster ACTUALLY A Sport Climbing Shoe? | Climbing Daily Ep.1810
All I know is they stick nicely to things, and make my toes hurt if I haven't worn them in a while 🤷♂️
I feel like choosing shoes is more dependent on rock type than discipline.
For a really performance orientated fit I would even go down 1,5 sizes from street shoes. At least I do that on all scarpas I have (Chimera, Instinct VS, Boostic).
Yeah for my sport shoes I go from an 11.5us to an 8us and hot soak to break mine in, but I'm mostly on sportiva shoes. Then again my trad/aid shoes are 1 size down with socks.
@@Mrich775 sportivas size completely different than scarpas. I go down at least 3 sizes in them
@@johannessporer oh definitely, just throwing in additional info for people in here.
Do you have the newer boostic, the black and blue? The sizing feels wildly different from my Chimeras, Magos, and Dragos, as though I need at least a full size down if not another half.
@@zacharylaschober nope only the old ones...
I feel like most “bouldering” shoes are also “sport” shoes... it just depends on how hard you’re climbing
Good review, thank you, Teresa, and nice climbing!
I've got a pair and love them.
Thanks Terry your vids are awesome!!
Good review! I have a pair and I love them!
Tried these on at a demo. Can confirm. They are a low volume shoe.
Had to go down to a 39 to get the heel to fit right. But then my toes were unbelievably smashed in the front and I couldnt get the straps over the top of my foot. I didnt actually expect downsizing that hard to be beneficial, but being at a demo I thought I would see what it would take ;)
I wear:
41 Vapor V
41 Instinct VS-R
41 Chimera
40 Mago
Good Job Teresa! Thanks for posting the review
Really couldn't get on with these, tried everything up to the 10.5 (I'm a UK 11) and the toe box was just the wrong shape for my feet and crushed my 2nd toe so much I couldn't stand up in them
Assuming we are taking the index toe, consider the La Sportiva Genius as this was the first shoe which I had used where my index toe was notably torqued by itself but sat in a great profile in the shoe.
I would downsize at least 1 full size. I ordered the same size as my VS-R that fit nicely and these had super baggy heels.
I already have one and I adore
How can they excel at both small edges and smearing? Surely this require the opposite structures in the shoe??
Depends on the style of edge and smear, but generally the more flexible a shoe is through the rand and pad the better at smearing into notable divots while the more stiff a shoe is through a small midsole the better at standing on distinct edges. If we talk micro edges or crystals and compy smears on volumes, those want completely different shoes.
Its the TPS, I have it in my Chimera's.
If you point your toes forward and try to make the shoe as long as possible it hardens up. Giving you a nice firm point to stand on
If you relax your toes and let them get curled up with the shoe (keep it short) the TPS stays soft and lets you get a lot of rubber down
Downside is it require a lot more toe strength than a stiff shoe. It will do it, but if its a longer or more sustained route, your deffinitely going to feel it.
@@benwhetstone248 the TPS insert is one of the reasons I now have a dozen pairs of Chimeras. If you enjoy them try out the nee Boostic as an edging machine cause there is a similar flexed midsole used, much larger obviously, which gives awesome sensitivity atop support. Not as much for smearing as they’re a solid sole of XS Edge, but been using em on glacier polished granite smedges to great success.
It's a bit confusing that there is no info about this video beeing a commercial with paid shoes from scarpa or not.
Hi
I really dislike the trope of calling climbing shoes weapons. I don't associate anything positive with weapons. Also the comparison is as worn out as my old, three times resoled training shoes.
Agree that calling a climbing shoe a weapon sound ridiculous. Even a boxing glove would not be considered as a weapon.
Just don't smear, perfect foot placement only ;)
A bit too much advertisement on the channel. Maybe didn´t notice before...Climbing Daily was alot better with Hugo and Matt as hosts, they supplemented each other quite well.
I think you mean complimented each other quite well.
@@martynowen1318 Lmao, English is my third language... but even I know that compliment means praise. The word you are looking for is complement, wich supplement is a synonym for. (www.thefreedictionary.com/complimented).
Have to agree. Whilst interesting, these videos never ever say anything negative about the shoes. Never compare to what the climber actually wears when they're off camera etc. It's pure marketing. Apparently this shoe improved her grades but she feels 'she's not good enough' to use it yet and hopes to one day achieve moving up to these. Such BS.
They do however look terrible.