There are not much good and bad shoes. It's more important how they fit your feet and style of climbing. examples of what I discovered over 1.5 year of climbing (still newbie) - Scarpa Instinct are great for wider feet and greek feet type like mine. - Katanas are one of most neutral shoes and should fit most climbers, but they have quite small heel box, which I personally like - Pythons are great for narrow feet. - Solutions are a favorite shoe for many climbers, but they have a huge heel. Pay attention how it fits your heel when trying them.
The guy from 2:30 should definately try on the Skwama "Women's"! I have the same "problem" with the normal Skwama, so I never even climbed in them, but later I found the Skwama Women's and they suck up my feet perfectly! Normaly I go down Sportiva -2,5EU, but for Skwama Women's (and the OLD yellow Katana VCS) I go down an additional 0,5 EU to a total -3.0 EU sizes, since they are even larger than the other climbing shoes from La Sportiva.
I've got narrow heels and found 90% of climbing shoes just don't fit my foot shape, regardless of size. I've tried over 65 pairs and documented them all in a spreadsheet to try and keep track. The result of all the research for me is the current pairs I own: La Sportiva Futura and EB Red. The EB pair (0.5 smaller than UK street size) are slightly stiffer so I use them more for outdoors and edging. They're an amazing fit for me though. My partner also has narrow feet and recently bought an EB pair too. The Futuras are soft and primarily used indoors, and I wear them 2 UK sizes smaller than street size.
You should try madrock shoes if you haven't already. I also have very narrow heels and their molded heel cup fits like a suction fit. Also unparallel has a pretty decent narrow heel on a bunch of their shoes.
I "suffer" the exact same fate as you. Therefore I am wondering, because the Futura heel ist extremely fat! Way bigger and a lot less stable than for example Sportiva Solutions, which also have a toobig heelvolume for me. What I found: Best heel for me: + Five Ten HiAngle. The second model, 2016 grey/aqua, made in USA. NOT the bs made in china models Adidas sales now. Also ok but not perfect, therefore climbable: + Sportiva Katana Laces (the brand new 2022 redesign I haven't had on my feet) + Sportiva Katana VCS (the OLD yellow one (snake or leopard design on the velcros)) IF small enough. NOT the newer, stiff bs models of the shoe + Sportiva Skwama "Women's" (the men's/unisex are WAY too wide for me + double the heel volume) + Sportiva Otaki (blue Unisex in XS Edge + the yellow "Women's" version with XS Grip 2) + Sportiva Miura VS (the lace version doesn't fit me, so i cannot say) + Sportiva Mythos, but I use it just for easy Alpine Multipitching (Alexander Huber climbs 8B (UIAA 10) Multipitch in them!) + Sportiva Cobra + maybe Sportiva Maverink? + maybe the new SportivaTestarossa with the red heel is climbable? The Last iteration (2018 built) of + Five Ten Anasazi VCS V2 made in USA with original Stealth C4 rubber. + Scarpa Vapor V (the first model, orange/silver, produced 2010-2014) + Scarpa Chimera (yellow; the newer model (black) with the PAF heel I haven't had on my feet yet) + Boreal Mutant From what I've read is Evolv generally a little wider in the forefoot + smaller heels, but I cannot say, since I haven't had an Evolv shoe on my feet (fairly rare in Europe to get).
@@mrmonsterhunter808 Yes, old Five Ten (made in USA) heels + their enhanced "clone" models by the same guys under "Unparallel" have a narrow but deeper heel cup. Too deep for me unfortunately. But since my feet are not THAT narrow, Five ten USA shoes except HiAngle and Anasazi VCS /VCS V2 are a little too narrow for me in the toe box.
@@mrmonsterhunter808 I find Mad Rock always have a lot of bag under the heels, same as Scarpa. Would like to try the LV version of the Drones but find them very hard to get hold of. I've found the heel on all Unparallel shoes to be dreadful to be honest, and their LV versions don't go big enough.
@@philipppuchner1115 cool, thanks for the list! I had some Boreal Diabolo before and they fit me well, but were ultimately stiffer and flatter than I want. I agree that Evolv typically fit well on the heel. I was very close to buying some Shamans before but didn't quite find them to be perfect. I actually sometimes find the toe box a bit big on them (so my toes end up moving within the shoe). Would like to try the Zenist when I next need a pair. Never had too much difficulty buying them in the UK from the likes of Banana Fingers, Addnature or AlpineTrek
For "us" mortals it is 1,5 EU sizes down (even -1,0 would be ok, depending on your feet). It makes me sad for seeing a coach(!) doing this kind of stuff: buing an extremely soft shoe, getting them so small that they are more stable and use them for vertical edging. Use the shoes for what they are designed for! And if you want to carry just one pair of shoes during this festival, where you KNOW tha there is a LOT of vertical edging, at least bring some intermediate shoe which can do everything decently. Or where YOU can do everything decently with.
Totally pointless comment. What I observed while looking at my bf feet and mine is that his feet can really "compress" (he has a wide feet but quite short feet, 43 street shoe) and mine cannot "compress" at all (veeery narrow foot 40 street shoe size). I downsize drago by 1,5 size and he downsize by 2,5 size. It doesnt feel unnecessary for him because bigger sizes feels a little too loose at the toebox. We both feel comfortable in them and it took him even less sessions than me to break them in. He also very rarely feels pain when breaking in his shoe. I don't know how to explain that but I think different feet can differently compress into the shoe. I think it really depends on the shape of your foot and your personal feeling in the shoe.
@@juliahabaj5866 If you need to downsize the Drago by 2,5 sizes, it's just not your shoe. The Drago itself is highly asymmetrical and kind of "pointy" on the big toe, you will already get a good stabilized foot position while standing normal in the shoe. At the point where you're downsizing the shoe to the point where your toebox kind of fits in, your whole foot, especially the big toe, is so damn cramped that it's not healthy anymore. The illusion of climbing better with a shoe that is downsized to the point where you barely can wear it two minutes is - an illusion.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
The finales are a great comfort shoe, I use them for anything that doesn't require toes or heels or significant edging
lmao 😂
There are not much good and bad shoes. It's more important how they fit your feet and style of climbing.
examples of what I discovered over 1.5 year of climbing (still newbie)
- Scarpa Instinct are great for wider feet and greek feet type like mine.
- Katanas are one of most neutral shoes and should fit most climbers, but they have quite small heel box, which I personally like
- Pythons are great for narrow feet.
- Solutions are a favorite shoe for many climbers, but they have a huge heel. Pay attention how it fits your heel when trying them.
good discoveries! thanks Tb!🙌
The guy from 2:30 should definately try on the Skwama "Women's"!
I have the same "problem" with the normal Skwama, so I never even climbed in them, but later I found the Skwama Women's and they suck up my feet perfectly!
Normaly I go down Sportiva -2,5EU, but for Skwama Women's (and the OLD yellow Katana VCS) I go down an additional 0,5 EU to a total -3.0 EU sizes, since they are even larger than the other climbing shoes from La Sportiva.
I've got narrow heels and found 90% of climbing shoes just don't fit my foot shape, regardless of size. I've tried over 65 pairs and documented them all in a spreadsheet to try and keep track. The result of all the research for me is the current pairs I own: La Sportiva Futura and EB Red. The EB pair (0.5 smaller than UK street size) are slightly stiffer so I use them more for outdoors and edging. They're an amazing fit for me though. My partner also has narrow feet and recently bought an EB pair too. The Futuras are soft and primarily used indoors, and I wear them 2 UK sizes smaller than street size.
You should try madrock shoes if you haven't already. I also have very narrow heels and their molded heel cup fits like a suction fit. Also unparallel has a pretty decent narrow heel on a bunch of their shoes.
I "suffer" the exact same fate as you.
Therefore I am wondering, because the Futura heel ist extremely fat! Way bigger and a lot less stable than for example Sportiva Solutions, which also have a toobig heelvolume for me.
What I found:
Best heel for me:
+ Five Ten HiAngle. The second model, 2016 grey/aqua, made in USA. NOT the bs made in china models Adidas sales now.
Also ok but not perfect, therefore climbable:
+ Sportiva Katana Laces (the brand new 2022 redesign I haven't had on my feet)
+ Sportiva Katana VCS (the OLD yellow one (snake or leopard design on the velcros)) IF small enough. NOT the newer, stiff bs models of the shoe
+ Sportiva Skwama "Women's" (the men's/unisex are WAY too wide for me + double the heel volume)
+ Sportiva Otaki (blue Unisex in XS Edge + the yellow "Women's" version with XS Grip 2)
+ Sportiva Miura VS (the lace version doesn't fit me, so i cannot say)
+ Sportiva Mythos, but I use it just for easy Alpine Multipitching (Alexander Huber climbs 8B (UIAA 10) Multipitch in them!)
+ Sportiva Cobra
+ maybe Sportiva Maverink?
+ maybe the new SportivaTestarossa with the red heel is climbable?
The Last iteration (2018 built) of
+ Five Ten Anasazi VCS V2 made in USA with original Stealth C4 rubber.
+ Scarpa Vapor V (the first model, orange/silver, produced 2010-2014)
+ Scarpa Chimera (yellow; the newer model (black) with the PAF heel I haven't had on my feet yet)
+ Boreal Mutant
From what I've read is Evolv generally a little wider in the forefoot + smaller heels, but I cannot say, since I haven't had an Evolv shoe on my feet (fairly rare in Europe to get).
@@mrmonsterhunter808 Yes, old Five Ten (made in USA) heels + their enhanced "clone" models by the same guys under "Unparallel" have a narrow but deeper heel cup. Too deep for me unfortunately. But since my feet are not THAT narrow, Five ten USA shoes except HiAngle and Anasazi VCS /VCS V2 are a little too narrow for me in the toe box.
@@mrmonsterhunter808 I find Mad Rock always have a lot of bag under the heels, same as Scarpa. Would like to try the LV version of the Drones but find them very hard to get hold of. I've found the heel on all Unparallel shoes to be dreadful to be honest, and their LV versions don't go big enough.
@@philipppuchner1115 cool, thanks for the list! I had some Boreal Diabolo before and they fit me well, but were ultimately stiffer and flatter than I want. I agree that Evolv typically fit well on the heel. I was very close to buying some Shamans before but didn't quite find them to be perfect. I actually sometimes find the toe box a bit big on them (so my toes end up moving within the shoe). Would like to try the Zenist when I next need a pair. Never had too much difficulty buying them in the UK from the likes of Banana Fingers, Addnature or AlpineTrek
Can we kill the "this is a bouldering shoe", "this is a sports shoe" myth/marketing bs already?
im still rocking my butoras..
when you know, you know😉
Haha i have 4 pairs of acros.. got 3 of them resoled too.
Same, love em.
LS Katana Lace ✌🏻
Sport = La Sportiva Genius
Bouldering = Scarpa Drago LV
Ocun Pearl the best!!! :D
Barefoot is the best way to climb, hands down.
Ew
I think it's harder if you have your hands down.
Indalo/mastia ftw.
An excellent way to spend time. Much better than just drinking beer in front of the TV.
Indeed 🤘
Ciao bella! Brava.
No offense to the first dude, but downsizing the Drago 2,5 sizes is completely unnecessary and over the top...
For "us" mortals it is 1,5 EU sizes down (even -1,0 would be ok, depending on your feet).
It makes me sad for seeing a coach(!) doing this kind of stuff: buing an extremely soft shoe, getting them so small that they are more stable and use them for vertical edging.
Use the shoes for what they are designed for!
And if you want to carry just one pair of shoes during this festival, where you KNOW tha there is a LOT of vertical edging, at least bring some intermediate shoe which can do everything decently. Or where YOU can do everything decently with.
Totally pointless comment. What I observed while looking at my bf feet and mine is that his feet can really "compress" (he has a wide feet but quite short feet, 43 street shoe) and mine cannot "compress" at all (veeery narrow foot 40 street shoe size). I downsize drago by 1,5 size and he downsize by 2,5 size. It doesnt feel unnecessary for him because bigger sizes feels a little too loose at the toebox. We both feel comfortable in them and it took him even less sessions than me to break them in. He also very rarely feels pain when breaking in his shoe. I don't know how to explain that but I think different feet can differently compress into the shoe. I think it really depends on the shape of your foot and your personal feeling in the shoe.
@@juliahabaj5866 If you need to downsize the Drago by 2,5 sizes, it's just not your shoe. The Drago itself is highly asymmetrical and kind of "pointy" on the big toe, you will already get a good stabilized foot position while standing normal in the shoe. At the point where you're downsizing the shoe to the point where your toebox kind of fits in, your whole foot, especially the big toe, is so damn cramped that it's not healthy anymore. The illusion of climbing better with a shoe that is downsized to the point where you barely can wear it two minutes is - an illusion.
Solutions solutions solutions
thats what they say💪