Remove the limiters. The EPA regs are way to lean. The carbs need to be adjusted for the climate, altitude, fuel used etc. I know of lots of people that have thrown away good machines because they could not make them run right. What's better, fill the landfills with machines or be able to adjust them so they work properly. Thanks for that video. Good Work
I had an FS36 I bought in the mid 80s it finally bit the dust last summer. Not powerful by today’s standards but it served me well. Off with the limiters 👍
I own the same trimmer, did all of those things. 40+ years and mine is still working after sitting around for the last 10+ years I decided to have it repaired. I put on the new line trimmer head and had to fine tune the carburetor after that!
Used your video to repair a FS36. It also suffered from a petrified metering diaphragm, which was pushing down on the rocker arm causing the carburetor to flood. Bought a carb kit off of ebay and and replaced the diaphragm and a few other parts. Trimmer started on second pull! I did check to see if a carburetor was available, but this trimmer is pretty old and no one seems to carry a carb for it. Thanks!
I'm in the process of rehabilitating 18 4mix engines that I obtained from a landscape company. I didn't know what to expect at first but after getting 6 back up and running, i can say it's best just to go through the basic tuning & maintenance before pondering about anything else. This includes: cleaning the intake, checking the spark plug, check valve clearance, unplug exhaust, clean or change gas tank vent, check fuel lines, clean carb, use fresh fuel. If you do need adjustments it would be minor. Especially so since you replaced the diaphragm.
@@HomeGaragechannel they switched to echo because they kept having issues. My diagnoses was that used to much oil and never cleaned their machines. The result is the oil grime got on everywhere, clogging up everything.
@@Jaze2022 interesting. Usually most complained about having to take their blowers in all the time just to have the valve lash checked. Good on luck on them I guess you'll be selling them when you get them up and running?
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks. Keeping a br700 and selling the rest. When do you think is a good time in the year? I thought spring and fall and maybe winter. But spring market seems a bit saturated.
Wow, that is a really unique and cool looking trimmer, I’ve never seen anything like it! It’s almost comparable to one of those cheap upside down cylinder trimmers, but it actually looks cool. It looks pretty rare, I would definitely hold onto it. I’m sorry that it only had 55 psi of compression though, I hope things work out for you and it in the end.
I wish it was in better shape too but its still a great piece to a Stihl collection. It won't be used much to try and conserve it. Thank you RabbitFootedKitty for the comment I appreciate it.
A couple months ago I got a old fs 36 out of my sisters barn (the left and bunch of weedeaters, chainsaw and a fourwheeler) and i have clean it up a bit and had put gas in it, wouldnt start, gave it some starting fluid, up and off she went and purred like a kitten. Oh and i think it had sat for 11 years or so. You cant stop a sthil.
I would have removed the plate covering the adjusting screws as well if I could have. I would have also cleaned off the plastic a lot before reinstalling the carb. Looking forward to next video. Thanks for sharing.
I removed all the limiters on everything but the 230 blower but they might be next. Ran it again this evening and it still runs fine. Thanks and Blessings!
I have 4 stihl weedeaters. 3 FS85's, one doesn't idle, one bogs,(buckhorn handle, easy to use) and one I got from an auction, took apart and blown. I also have a FS56RC, doesn't idle.
Thats my model, this is a great whipper snipper which has worked really hard, i used it for some commercial properties, always started like a dream then wouldn't, ive had someone fix it it but its still hard to start, thanks for the great info
Good video. My first Stihl product was a FS36. I have heard it was made by another manufacturer? Mine lasted for about 6 years before the on/off switch broke. I was never a big fan of the bent shaft, so went with a FS 70R. The 36 met the garbage can when it began to run poorly. While my 36 had compression and count have been saved, I really wanted a better trimmer.
I'd do the mixture screw bypass & if it was my trimmer I would fit new piston rings. I made it a rule to rebuild a non working hedge trimmer which needed a new ignition coil and carburettor, its compression was about 75 PSI as I wasn't sure if it would run so I replaced the cylinder & piston assembly with a new kit. The compression was 105 PSI before it was run in & 125 PSI when it was run in so in the end they had a new machine !
Hi good video. You have a good voice also. In answer to your question, I would have left the limiter intact as it was. You did say it almost never needed adjustment beyond the minimal anyway. Your own words, and my advice to you. Great job
I agree with removing the adjustment limiter on the carburetor. Would I have done it? No. Will I do it in the future, now that I see that it can be done? Absolutely! Thank you for the tip. I've not seen one so tamper-proof as this one. They really wanted to keep the consumer from having full control.
Home Garage is a good small engine repair tutorial channel for everyone want to fix their small engine. I wish I have your voice over! I'm very slack with voice over so I did in real-time during my tutorials. This is about helping to further guides you how to rebuild this carburetor and what to do in addition to Home Garage tutorial. One possible reason why the engine won't rev up is the carburetor was only partially rebuild by replacing the metering diaphragm. The complete rebuild kit is not that expensive and the most expensive part is your time. Since you already working on the carby and pulling it apart, take the opportunity to do it properly. Fixing a carburetor is like repairing a movement watch especially the very tiny nozzles if small dirts getting into will ruin your work and make more frustration. Before removing the carburetor, thoroughly clean around the carburetor to prevent dirts from getting into the crackcase then to the combustion engine. For compression has to be above 90psi to 150psi. Below 90psi is not ideal or question your compression tester. Resusing the gasket cannot guarantee of propper sealing around the gasket since old gasket doesn't have flexibility for further sealing compression. If you have access to the mixture screws, better remove then and clean the inside cavity and nozzles. In addition to Home Gagarge, you can also view this video here: th-cam.com/video/hYNeQFK27p8/w-d-xo.html
Tried it. Mine would not go back together. The things he did he had to have practiced. First the starter cord was a helluva effort to get out and then even worse to get back in when the rope guide kept pulling out. Secondly, the trigger assembly came apart and would not go back. Thirdly, he got lucky in have the view slot for the kill switch. Mine did not. Finally, lining up all three things (kill switch, shaft, and pull cord) to get the orange case back on was a nightmare! Took many attempts as the kill switch and metal pull cord guide would not stay in position. I also had to walk away once before I could get it back on as I got so frustrated. Finally threw it out as I couldnt get it started - electrical problem of some sort - intermittent spark. Got Dewalt electric trimmer... highly recommend that! BTW - dont buy the new stihl products... they run like crap and I had to get another gas can for its special (rec gas).
Answering your carburetor question, I'd probably rather stay with the original carb unless something internally is defective, excluding the metering and pumping diaphragm which I consider "wearables" when it comes to a carburetor and it's age. I mostly work on bigger small engines and personally haven't had so much luck with the aftermarket carbs.
I have the same exact model which I purchased in 1996. It has always run great and in 2012 I replaced the carburetor and have not had to make any adjustments. After the third use this season it became hard to start. I checked spark Good, Checked compression 75 psi. tried to start it with gasoline and starter fluid sprayed in the carb and cylinder still no start.Changed primer bulb and fuel lines look good but are the original. Checked and cleaned spark arrestor. Any suggestions as to why it won't start or what to check next? What should the H & L Jets be set at !-1/2. They were at 3/4. It has briefly run for a few seconds twice.
after multiple starts I want to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Remove the spark plug and pull the rope several times and then let it air out with the spark plug out. The next day, I would replace the spark plug and try starting it with no choke and if it starts then it was just flooded, If it doesn't start, then go thru the regular priming and choking procedure. As for the adjustment setting, I don't have any suggestions as the setting are not universal once an engine has some age and wear on it.
Set the H & L screws to 1 full turn counter clock wise. Set the machine to choke start. Pulled recoil starter one time. engine ran briefly . Set to run and it started up on first pull. So I don't know what I did to fix it. I did check the carb diaphrams and they looked good . Thank you for the quick response to my inquiry. Keep up the good work on the videos. Professionally done
i personally would remove the limiter cap cover and i also have a Stihl FS 36 with a similar issue too but the On/Off Switch does work fine and it,s located on the throttle trigger assembly cover on mine and i cannot get it rev up and the spark aresstor screen is free of any carbon too but i i might try either a rebuild kit or replacing the carby entirely
If it was mine I'd have done just what you did. A customer, I'd ask but recommend a new carb. I'm curious about the exhaust screen, thinking partly plugged. I wasn't paying attention to the spark plug, if it was carbonned up, if it had build up the exhaust screen would be next. The shutoff switch is probably bad from the looks of the general condition of the machine but who knows who's been in there? Loose connection, maybe.
People really like their stihl equipment. In addition to what you did, I would have replaced the fuel lines, primer bulb, spark plug and maybe the grip. With it fully refurbished like that, you could make some good profit on selling it or just be really happy keeping it.
It would be easier just to replace the carburetor of course, but I like fixing things that are that are not working and putting a new carburetor on would be replacing not fixing! 😏 Sucks the fun out of it..
As a 13 year old you would think I would be emo but no I'm into lawn equipment and my moms friend gave me a Stihl fs36 and just got it running today also I would have removed the limiter
@@cdhiren .. There is an owners manual online that explains how to replace line and everything else.. When I do it, I spray a little silicone on the spool and the line to help the line come out easier and not get jammed and the dried grass and stuff must be cleaned out thoroughly from the spool and housing when replacing line or it will keep on getting jammed.
I have the same trimmer give to me just before fall of last year. Ran great till i didn't pay attention to what gas jug i grabbed and ended up running it with straight gas. Also i didn't much care for the choke dial it kept popping out of place on me
Thank you for this video, I received a hand-me-down FS36 and got it running well enough, but I am unable to get the autocut 10-11 head off. I am having trouble finding documentation on it, but it appears to be one of the heads that doesn't require the locking pin. But the head is _stuck_ on, I removed the screw off 'bump' nut/head piece, the string holder comes out fine, but again the head is stuck on. Should I try shooting some penetrating oil around the head and start prying with a hammer? Any advice here would be great. Thank you
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you for the reply!! I used Kroil and let it sit overnight and still wouldn't come off. I ended up using a dremel tool to carefully cut off the plastic sleeve. Turns out the shaft had completely corroded underneath, expanding, and turning into a compression fitting haha. I'm going to try polishing up the rust as I would rather not replace the bearing shaft assembly. The unit is quite old, I am curious if the previous owner ever once removed the string head!
The first things I would have done would pump the primer to Make sure you have gas and if you don’t. Put us aside and test for spark and if u then have spark go on and clean the carb
I recently got offered a non-running one of these for free, however, didn't end up getting it. The replacement parts seem a bit hard to find, especially the carb kit. Nevertheless looks like a nice piece of machinery. thanks for sharing!
For me, I would remove the screw adjuster. I don’t like the homeowner model weed eaters from Stihl. I prefer the professional ones just because they put more power out there. In the future, I see myself getting the FS 91R and it might be wonder for me
Hello I searched high and low for replacement carb but none found only rebuild kits which I don't wish to do...do you know if there are carbs that would fit this fine piece of vintage trimmer from Deutschland?
I would have removed it, haven’t had much luck with chineseum Stihl replacement carbs. Besides, I like to work with what I have. I wouldn’t put a whole lot of $ in it either. Be surprised if you could get more than $45.00 for it, and that’s just because it’s a Stihl. Standing by for part 2
i have one of these but unfortunately mine got knocked off a shelf bye raccoons and it fell into a bucket of water and froze and shattered did it no good at all it was a sweet runner for a long time, they do seem rare as ill see the 45 models in lawn sales and such but never find the 36
It depends how difficult it is to turn your screw. If it's really easy to turn the spring is absolutely needed. If your screw is difficult to turn then you probably don't need it.
Home garage how do you work a stuck throttle linkage on a echo es210 leaf blower i hope to see a video on that soon i got a free echo es210 runs great the throttle is stuck wide open
@@HomeGaragechannel i only run ethanol free 2 cycle in my echo leaf blower 50 to 1 and in my 2 stroke lawn boy i noticed they run very smoothe and no carbon build up on my muffler on my lawn boy
@@HomeGaragechannel thats the only stuff i will use its worth the extra cash to me if u ever a unwanted leaf blower in good shape could u hook me up i am going to be making youtube videos getting a dash cam that works with windows 7 my birthday is friday this week
Does this toro have a metal carb? Possibly but it would be easier to just swap the entire engine to the one with the primer. There will be no engineering or custom molds.
Home Garage I have an old craftsman pressure washer with Briggs engine that has ready start but the air filter cover has the slot for the primer would that work On a mower
I have the fs 35 been hanging in the garage for years, I wonder if its worth trying to get it going. I will take it to the local shop where I bought it more than 20 years ago. Looks just like the 36 model.
@@HomeGaragechannel ight thanks But if it's ever possible for you to go through the replacement method it would be greatly appreciated cuz it's a bit tricky
No limiters in my Kraut-FS 36, never heard of them :) Little Trimmer that needs a good carb setup and high octane fuel (1:50, Castrol Race Oil ;), no Ethanol crap mix. Do the Carb setup: H and L screws (upper screws) turn them in and for first setup 1 cycle out again. LA Screw (the big one underneath) same way, turn clockwise in and 1 cycle out then. Start the FS36 and let it run for about 3 minutes. Turn the lower LA screw couterclockwise till idle rpm is near, stay slightly above. Then check the best position for the L screw (upper right one, next to the engine), play around +- 45° for best engine sound, then readjust LA for low enough rpm at idle without spinning head. This needs a bit time, also push the gas handle to check if the system works stable when falling back from high rev to idle. If the engine stops, readjust slightly. It's all within a quarter turn, only in Peru, Bhutan or in hell you need more adjustment. If the setup works so far, go for the H screw (left little upper one) and play around within +-45°, it's the high rpm setting. If the engine rises fast without stuttering, the ideal position is found. Play. Love my 10.000 upm FS36, sounds and smells like on the GP 125 racetrack back in the days. It never let me down and it's easy to handle for small jobs. Just do the setup and use good, stable fuel.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thanks so much! Your videos are the best. I had to borrow a t25. Any idea where I can get air filter? Can't find an old one that's round like mine.
A Family friend had one of these, she just said it wont start, i didn't know what brand ect, i go over there, i see this dinosaur and think oh good. It was pulling over weird, catching and then going free. Recoil problem? I investigate a bit, eh no seems fine. Has good spark, plug is out, still pulls over funky. Put a bit of oil in the cylinder and now its pulling over freely...shes toast. Didn't need more than that. Mind you it went to pulling over horribly in just a few pulls. She said she bought it like before 2000...so 22 years of service i'd call it good.
Currently looking at an FS40 that looks the same as this one. I understand that these trimmers are much older, and was wondering where I could find a carb kit for this age of trimmer.
ha.. i was thinking the same thing about the guy that does mouse traps every a few days. he must be releasing them to get caught again again if its not a "finishing" trap. but to be honest i won't be answering question because the answer is not as funny as you may think.
It depends if some of the fuel made it to the carb. It might start then. However if none of the fuel made to the carb and the primer doesn't work then you might have to replace it.
You are the second person who i have watched just replace the metering diaphragm.. basically and that's it. lazy.. you had the carb off take it apart completely. remove the adjustment screws. and poke every and spray every passage way you can see with carb cleaner to clear them out. But i guess if you reall want to be lazy order a carb on line for 10 bucks or less.
this is actually a way better trimmer than the new ones, I have this one, and a brand new one, I wouldn't give you a pinch of coon shit for the new one, burns your elbow when you run it, I mean what asshole would put it on the market without ever testing it.
Home Garage i had a chainsaw and a trimmer nothing but problems! I have had no problems with echo equipment! The best chainsaw i ever had is my echo CS-400 hands down!!!
Stihls quality control kinda sucks lately, I work at a shop and pretty much half the fs 131 and other machines with the same engine have been having carb failures left and right for the last year. Install a new carb under warranty and the mfer is leaking again by the time the customer picks it up. Echo may win me over too.
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Remove the limiters. The EPA regs are way to lean. The carbs need to be adjusted for the climate, altitude, fuel used etc. I know of lots of people that have thrown away good machines because they could not make them run right. What's better, fill the landfills with machines or be able to adjust them so they work properly. Thanks for that video. Good Work
Thank you Waterman one for the comment I appreciate it
I had an FS36 I bought in the mid 80s it finally bit the dust last summer. Not powerful by today’s standards but it served me well. Off with the limiters 👍
Nice comment. Well said. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I own the same trimmer, did all of those things. 40+ years and mine is still working after sitting around for the last 10+ years I decided to have it repaired. I put on the new line trimmer head and had to fine tune the carburetor after that!
nice work, like seeing these around
Used your video to repair a FS36. It also suffered from a petrified metering diaphragm, which was pushing down on the rocker arm causing the carburetor to flood. Bought a carb kit off of ebay and and replaced the diaphragm and a few other parts. Trimmer started on second pull! I did check to see if a carburetor was available, but this trimmer is pretty old and no one seems to carry a carb for it. Thanks!
no problem and thank you for the comment.
I'm in the process of rehabilitating 18 4mix engines that I obtained from a landscape company. I didn't know what to expect at first but after getting 6 back up and running, i can say it's best just to go through the basic tuning & maintenance before pondering about anything else. This includes: cleaning the intake, checking the spark plug, check valve clearance, unplug exhaust, clean or change gas tank vent, check fuel lines, clean carb, use fresh fuel. If you do need adjustments it would be minor. Especially so since you replaced the diaphragm.
nice haul. I'm surprised they sold all of their 4 mix blowers.
@@HomeGaragechannel they switched to echo because they kept having issues. My diagnoses was that used to much oil and never cleaned their machines. The result is the oil grime got on everywhere, clogging up everything.
@@Jaze2022 interesting. Usually most complained about having to take their blowers in all the time just to have the valve lash checked. Good on luck on them I guess you'll be selling them when you get them up and running?
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks. Keeping a br700 and selling the rest. When do you think is a good time in the year? I thought spring and fall and maybe winter. But spring market seems a bit saturated.
@@Jaze2022 yes spring is overly saturated so I would try fall, say October or November. or least when leaves start changing colors.
Wow, that is a really unique and cool looking trimmer, I’ve never seen anything like it! It’s almost comparable to one of those cheap upside down cylinder trimmers, but it actually looks cool. It looks pretty rare, I would definitely hold onto it. I’m sorry that it only had 55 psi of compression though, I hope things work out for you and it in the end.
I wish it was in better shape too but its still a great piece to a Stihl collection. It won't be used much to try and conserve it. Thank you RabbitFootedKitty for the comment I appreciate it.
I'd order a cylinder kit for it. They are still available.
A couple months ago I got a old fs 36 out of my sisters barn (the left and bunch of weedeaters, chainsaw and a fourwheeler) and i have clean it up a bit and had put gas in it, wouldnt start, gave it some starting fluid, up and off she went and purred like a kitten. Oh and i think it had sat for 11 years or so. You cant stop a sthil.
Use a pick to carefully pull the hi/low limiter caps off. After proper adjustments, you can replace limiter caps as needed.
That's a good tip
I would have removed the plate covering the adjusting screws as well if I could have. I would have also cleaned off the plastic a lot before reinstalling the carb. Looking forward to next video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you D Butler for the comment. Its coming this Friday.
I removed all the limiters on everything but the 230 blower but they might be next. Ran it again this evening and it still runs fine. Thanks and Blessings!
I have 4 stihl weedeaters. 3 FS85's, one doesn't idle, one bogs,(buckhorn handle, easy to use) and one I got from an auction, took apart and blown. I also have a FS56RC, doesn't idle.
thanks for the information I appreciate it
@@HomeGaragechannel anytime
Thats my model, this is a great whipper snipper which has worked really hard, i used it for some commercial properties, always started like a dream then wouldn't, ive had someone fix it it but its still hard to start, thanks for the great info
wow very nice, thank you for sharing your experience with us
Good video. My first Stihl product was a FS36. I have heard it was made by another manufacturer? Mine lasted for about 6 years before the on/off switch broke. I was never a big fan of the bent shaft, so went with a FS 70R. The 36 met the garbage can when it began to run poorly. While my 36 had compression and count have been saved, I really wanted a better trimmer.
I agree with you. It's okay but it's not the same stihl product that it is now. The fs70r is a fantastic trimmer too
I'd do the mixture screw bypass & if it was my trimmer I would fit new piston rings.
I made it a rule to rebuild a non working hedge trimmer which needed a new ignition coil and carburettor, its compression was about 75 PSI as I wasn't sure if it would run so I replaced the cylinder & piston assembly with a new kit.
The compression was 105 PSI before it was run in & 125 PSI when it was run in so in the end they had a new machine !
Nice work.
Russell Booth no money in this thing, $45.00 TOPS. But on good Stihls, I’m with you all the way.
Hi good video. You have a good voice also. In answer to your question, I would have left the limiter intact as it was. You did say it almost never needed adjustment beyond the minimal anyway. Your own words, and my advice to you.
Great job
Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Compression spark and fuel the holy Trinity
you are absolutely correct.
I agree with removing the adjustment limiter on the carburetor. Would I have done it? No. Will I do it in the future, now that I see that it can be done? Absolutely! Thank you for the tip. I've not seen one so tamper-proof as this one. They really wanted to keep the consumer from having full control.
you are absolutely right about that
Home Garage is a good small engine repair tutorial channel for everyone want to fix their small engine. I wish I have your voice over! I'm very slack with voice over so I did in real-time during my tutorials. This is about helping to further guides you how to rebuild this carburetor and what to do in addition to Home Garage tutorial. One possible reason why the engine won't rev up is the carburetor was only partially rebuild by replacing the metering diaphragm. The complete rebuild kit is not that expensive and the most expensive part is your time. Since you already working on the carby and pulling it apart, take the opportunity to do it properly. Fixing a carburetor is like repairing a movement watch especially the very tiny nozzles if small dirts getting into will ruin your work and make more frustration. Before removing the carburetor, thoroughly clean around the carburetor to prevent dirts from getting into the crackcase then to the combustion engine. For compression has to be above 90psi to 150psi. Below 90psi is not ideal or question your compression tester. Resusing the gasket cannot guarantee of propper sealing around the gasket since old gasket doesn't have flexibility for further sealing compression. If you have access to the mixture screws, better remove then and clean the inside cavity and nozzles. In addition to Home Gagarge, you can also view this video here: th-cam.com/video/hYNeQFK27p8/w-d-xo.html
thank you I appreciate that
Primer bulb was changed recently never thought about pumping it so many times. I also cleaned the muffler out a lot of the oil residue.
Was the carb serviced?
On that particular trimmer i would of done what you did. Keep up the great content. God Bless our country during these changing times!!!
Thank you Nashguy207 for the comment I appreciate it
Tried it. Mine would not go back together. The things he did he had to have practiced. First the starter cord was a helluva effort to get out and then even worse to get back in when the rope guide kept pulling out. Secondly, the trigger assembly came apart and would not go back. Thirdly, he got lucky in have the view slot for the kill switch. Mine did not.
Finally, lining up all three things (kill switch, shaft, and pull cord) to get the orange case back on was a nightmare! Took many attempts as the kill switch and metal pull cord guide would not stay in position. I also had to walk away once before I could get it back on as I got so frustrated. Finally threw it out as I couldnt get it started - electrical problem of some sort - intermittent spark. Got Dewalt electric trimmer... highly recommend that! BTW - dont buy the new stihl products... they run like crap and I had to get another gas can for its special (rec gas).
thanks for explaining
I would remove the limiter caps,you can use a small wood screwdown the center of the limiter cap,and it will push the top out.
thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Answering your carburetor question, I'd probably rather stay with the original carb unless something internally is defective, excluding the metering and pumping diaphragm which I consider "wearables" when it comes to a carburetor and it's age. I mostly work on bigger small engines and personally haven't had so much luck with the aftermarket carbs.
thank you Blayne1602.
Unique looking trimmer! Never seen a carburetor placed behind the engine.
It is definitely different, makes it interesting to work on. thank you Chris Mots.
I work on stihl for a living a lot of parts are discussed and yes I would remove the limerters thay are good when the unit is new
Thank you John Kosheluk for the comment I appreciate your experience
I have the same exact model which I purchased in 1996. It has always run great and in 2012 I replaced the carburetor and have not had to make any adjustments. After the third use this season it became hard to start. I checked spark Good, Checked compression 75 psi. tried to start it with gasoline and starter fluid sprayed in the carb and cylinder still no start.Changed primer bulb and fuel lines look good but are the original. Checked and cleaned spark arrestor. Any suggestions as to why it won't start or what to check next? What should the H & L Jets be set at !-1/2. They were at 3/4. It has briefly run for a few seconds twice.
after multiple starts I want to make sure the engine isn't flooded. Remove the spark plug and pull the rope several times and then let it air out with the spark plug out. The next day, I would replace the spark plug and try starting it with no choke and if it starts then it was just flooded, If it doesn't start, then go thru the regular priming and choking procedure. As for the adjustment setting, I don't have any suggestions as the setting are not universal once an engine has some age and wear on it.
Set the H & L screws to 1 full turn counter clock wise. Set the machine to choke start. Pulled recoil starter one time. engine ran briefly . Set to run and it started up on first pull. So I don't know what I did to fix it. I did check the carb diaphrams and they looked good . Thank you for the quick response to my inquiry. Keep up the good work on the videos. Professionally done
@@wallacetom1 thank you and I appreciate it.
Again good job on the carb modifications but I can't wait til next video to see how you fix this
the fix for this trimmer is the next video i posted after this one.
I would remove the limiter but it wasn't necessary to grind it. Those limiters are easy to remove.
I realized that after grinding on it. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
MrPaco1013 but sometimes the adjustment screw head snaps off. I get what you’re saying. Be safe
Thst machine old school glad you are fixing it
I'm very happy to have it. Thank you Robert Mailos for the comment I appreciate it
i personally would remove the limiter cap cover and i also have a Stihl FS 36 with a similar issue too but the On/Off Switch does work fine and it,s located on the throttle trigger assembly cover on mine and i cannot get it rev up and the spark aresstor screen is free of any carbon too but i i might try either a rebuild kit or replacing the carby entirely
Thank you Patrick Stapleton for the comment I appreciate it
@@HomeGaragechannel my pleasure mate cheers from Australia
If it was mine I'd have done just what you did.
A customer, I'd ask but recommend a new carb.
I'm curious about the exhaust screen, thinking partly plugged.
I wasn't paying attention to the spark plug, if it was carbonned up,
if it had build up the exhaust screen would be next.
The shutoff switch is probably bad from the looks of the general
condition of the machine but who knows who's been in there?
Loose connection, maybe.
I really appreciate your comment. Thank you very much
People really like their stihl equipment. In addition to what you did, I would have replaced the fuel lines, primer bulb, spark plug and maybe the grip. With it fully refurbished like that, you could make some good profit on selling it or just be really happy keeping it.
thank you amc31b
It would be easier just to replace the carburetor of course, but I like fixing things that are that are not working and putting a new carburetor on would be replacing not fixing! 😏 Sucks the fun out of it..
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
As a 13 year old you would think I would be emo but no I'm into lawn equipment and my moms friend gave me a Stihl fs36 and just got it running today also I would have removed the limiter
Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Great video. I was able to start an old fs36 following your steps. Thank you. Can you please let me know to change the line on this one?
I haven't tried yet. I will let you know when I do find out.
@@HomeGaragechannel thank you. My bump head seems to be jammed and having troubles changing the line.
@@cdhiren .. There is an owners manual online that explains how to replace line and everything else.. When I do it, I spray a little silicone on the spool and the line to help the line come out easier and not get jammed and the dried grass and stuff must be cleaned out thoroughly from the spool and housing when replacing line or it will keep on getting jammed.
I would remove the limiter abd have a go at ajdusting the carb 1st
thats a good approach
I would have removed the cover for the adjusting crews. Save some money also.
Thank you Joseph Novotnak for the comment I appreciate it.
I would have removed the limiter also. Great vid.
Me too. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I have the same trimmer give to me just before fall of last year. Ran great till i didn't pay attention to what gas jug i grabbed and ended up running it with straight gas. Also i didn't much care for the choke dial it kept popping out of place on me
yes these are interesting for sure, but beyond that, they're just upside down ryobis.
Thank you for this video, I received a hand-me-down FS36 and got it running well enough, but I am unable to get the autocut 10-11 head off. I am having trouble finding documentation on it, but it appears to be one of the heads that doesn't require the locking pin. But the head is _stuck_ on, I removed the screw off 'bump' nut/head piece, the string holder comes out fine, but again the head is stuck on. Should I try shooting some penetrating oil around the head and start prying with a hammer? Any advice here would be great.
Thank you
That's what I would do. Let me know if it works.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you for the reply!! I used Kroil and let it sit overnight and still wouldn't come off. I ended up using a dremel tool to carefully cut off the plastic sleeve. Turns out the shaft had completely corroded underneath, expanding, and turning into a compression fitting haha. I'm going to try polishing up the rust as I would rather not replace the bearing shaft assembly. The unit is quite old, I am curious if the previous owner ever once removed the string head!
@@CaptSuperCoww I doubt the previous owner did any work to it. Thanks for the update
Picked one from the trash. Mint condition just had to replace purge bulp
lucky you. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.
The first things I would have done would pump the primer to Make sure you have gas and if you don’t. Put us aside and test for spark and if u then have spark go on and clean the carb
Thank you Bob Sheets for the information I appreciate it
How do you change the primer bulb on this unit
it snaps into the housing, just pry around the base, and it will pop out.
Do I have to take the rear housing off to get to the primer bulb?
yes just like in the video
my dad has the same one, used it many a summer as a kid
very nice,
I recently got offered a non-running one of these for free, however, didn't end up getting it. The replacement parts seem a bit hard to find, especially the carb kit. Nevertheless looks like a nice piece of machinery. thanks for sharing!
Sorry to hear that and thanks for the comment.
I found one for $40 not working either, but gonna buy it tomorrow and see what’s wrong
On the cable which hole dose the cable sit in to open the butterfly. Mine came apart and I didn’t see which hole it was actually in.
not sure, and I no longer have this trimmer, so I won't be able to check
@@HomeGaragechannel ok
Did it right by removing the plate limiter,carb appeared to be in good working order,no need to buy a new one, It a Stihl,it should be worth fixing.
you got that right, thank you Mark Boyce.
For me, I would remove the screw adjuster. I don’t like the homeowner model weed eaters from Stihl. I prefer the professional ones just because they put more power out there. In the future, I see myself getting the FS 91R and it might be wonder for me
nice choice. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
The OE carbs are typically better quality than aftermarket. I would only replace the carb if out of other options. Good move!
yes you are correct.
Hello I searched high and low for replacement carb but none found only rebuild kits which I don't wish to do...do you know if there are carbs that would fit this fine piece of vintage trimmer from Deutschland?
unfortunately I can't seem to find one either.
I would have removed it, haven’t had much luck with chineseum Stihl replacement carbs.
Besides, I like to work with what I have. I wouldn’t put a whole lot of $ in it either. Be surprised if you could get more than $45.00 for it, and that’s just because it’s a Stihl.
Standing by for part 2
Next part is coming next Friday. Thank you Jim S for the comment I appreciate it.
Home Garage good ting I’m off for the next two weeks so I’ll see. Unfortunately, I’m off for the next two weeks.
Take care of yourself
i have one of these but unfortunately mine got knocked off a shelf bye raccoons and it fell into a bucket of water and froze and shattered did it no good at all it was a sweet runner for a long time, they do seem rare as ill see the 45 models in lawn sales and such but never find the 36
Does anyone know how important the spring is on the idling screw at 4:02? The screw fell out on my trimmer and the spring is gone.
It depends how difficult it is to turn your screw. If it's really easy to turn the spring is absolutely needed. If your screw is difficult to turn then you probably don't need it.
Looks like a garage door opener with a trimmer attached to it. Lol!
lol... you're right
Home garage how do you work a stuck throttle linkage on a echo es210 leaf blower i hope to see a video on that soon i got a free echo es210 runs great the throttle is stuck wide open
Let me see if I can find one
@@HomeGaragechannel i only run ethanol free 2 cycle in my echo leaf blower 50 to 1 and in my 2 stroke lawn boy i noticed they run very smoothe and no carbon build up on my muffler on my lawn boy
ethanol free gas is the best way to go
@@HomeGaragechannel thats the only stuff i will use its worth the extra cash to me if u ever a unwanted leaf blower in good shape could u hook me up i am going to be making youtube videos getting a dash cam that works with windows 7 my birthday is friday this week
do you have any videos ready now?
Could it have been the fuel filter as to why you pressed the purge bulb 60 times? Plus lol you said primer bulb but its a purge bulb.
no its works just find even today so as for the 60 presses i'm not sure why. you can call it a purge bulb.
Is it possible to convert a toro mower with Briggs and Stratton ready start choke to use primer bulb like the older toro mowers used
Does this toro have a metal carb? Possibly but it would be easier to just swap the entire engine to the one with the primer. There will be no engineering or custom molds.
Home Garage yes
swap engines instead.
Home Garage I have an old craftsman pressure washer with Briggs engine that has ready start but the air filter cover has the slot for the primer would that work On a mower
Only if the shift size is the same as the one on the mower . Remove the pump and measure the shift and compare to the mower
I have the fs 35 been hanging in the garage for years, I wonder if its worth trying to get it going. I will take it to the local shop where I bought it more than 20 years ago. Looks just like the 36 model.
I doubt they will look at it, would probably tell you to hang it back on the wall and buy a new one.
Plz do a vid on refixing the backpack harness
can you be more specific?
@@HomeGaragechannel my cords/belts ripped from friction. Is there a method to replace them with ordinary similar cord?
@@chevezalexander7974 unfortunately it has to be belt material and not cord.
@@HomeGaragechannel ight thanks
But if it's ever possible for you to go through the replacement method it would be greatly appreciated cuz it's a bit tricky
@@chevezalexander7974 I agree with you.
Never seen one before!
these are quite rare now.
No limiters in my Kraut-FS 36, never heard of them :) Little Trimmer that needs a good carb setup and high octane fuel (1:50, Castrol Race Oil ;), no Ethanol crap mix.
Do the Carb setup:
H and L screws (upper screws) turn them in and for first setup 1 cycle out again.
LA Screw (the big one underneath) same way, turn clockwise in and 1 cycle out then.
Start the FS36 and let it run for about 3 minutes. Turn the lower LA screw couterclockwise till idle rpm is near, stay slightly above.
Then check the best position for the L screw (upper right one, next to the engine), play around +- 45° for best engine sound, then readjust LA for low enough rpm at idle without spinning head.
This needs a bit time, also push the gas handle to check if the system works stable when falling back from high rev to idle. If the engine stops, readjust slightly. It's all within a quarter turn, only in Peru, Bhutan or in hell you need more adjustment.
If the setup works so far, go for the H screw (left little upper one) and play around within +-45°, it's the high rpm setting. If the engine rises fast without stuttering, the ideal position is found. Play.
Love my 10.000 upm FS36, sounds and smells like on the GP 125 racetrack back in the days. It never let me down and it's easy to handle for small jobs. Just do the setup and use good, stable fuel.
thanks for the comment
Hey do you know where I can get a new carberator for this trimmer. I've looked everywhere!!!
Have you tried Ereplacementparts dot com?
Do ya know that the trimmer head design is different, but the curved shaft attachment still has the classic?
no I didn't
Excellent product!
yes I think so to!
I've been having issues getting my cover off to replace the primer bulb. It looks like you were using a star key. What size?
I think its a t25
@@HomeGaragechannel Thanks so much! Your videos are the best. I had to borrow a t25. Any idea where I can get air filter? Can't find an old one that's round like mine.
@@augustbradford7310 no problem. I would look at Ereplacementparts
A Family friend had one of these, she just said it wont start, i didn't know what brand ect, i go over there, i see this dinosaur and think oh good. It was pulling over weird, catching and then going free. Recoil problem? I investigate a bit, eh no seems fine. Has good spark, plug is out, still pulls over funky. Put a bit of oil in the cylinder and now its pulling over freely...shes toast. Didn't need more than that. Mind you it went to pulling over horribly in just a few pulls. She said she bought it like before 2000...so 22 years of service i'd call it good.
I completely agree.
Currently looking at an FS40 that looks the same as this one. I understand that these trimmers are much older, and was wondering where I could find a carb kit for this age of trimmer.
no sure, I didn't have to find one for this one, so I wouldn't know.
Ebay. It's the same as the fs36
For a Stihl I'd buy a new oem carburetor , something that nice deserves the best equipment possible
You make a really good point.
First thing you do is fit a new spark plug. especially if they're totally carboned up like that one was.
Then you try the other stuff.
that's an idea thanks
when i turn my trimmer upside down to line somwthing up it leaks oil, any reason as to why? all the fuel lines are intact
is your trimmer a 4 cycle or s 2 stroke? Where is this mystery oil coming from?
@@HomeGaragechannel it’s the same one from this video, it’s comming from the spark plug area I believe
if it's coming from the spark plug, then it means there's fuel and air leaking from there. just make sure the spark plug is tight
My FS 36 STARTS BUT AS SOON AS I SQUEEZE THE TRIGER IT SHUTS DOWN CAN U TELL ME Y
Yes its a carb issue. Try replacing it. Otherwise you can try adjusting the carb
Since you have a video like every week. Do you customers just break there equipment on purpose so you will fix them? its funny you have so much to fix
ha.. i was thinking the same thing about the guy that does mouse traps every a few days. he must be releasing them to get caught again again if its not a "finishing" trap. but to be honest i won't be answering question because the answer is not as funny as you may think.
What size key was used to remove the case mate?
If I recall, I would try a T25
Cheers mate! Really appreciate the reply!
Not so much removing anything but you customized it
thank you Robert Nelson.
Remember kids, test-run and pre-tune your trimmer before you reinstall the cover.
Thanks man
so the H screw is when pullinb the trigger and l is for the fuel that it gets anyways
trigger pull and idle is "L" screw, " H" is typically only for while the trigger has been squeezed. Think of it has a 2 band Equalizer for your radio.
Looks like a battery one just like the body shape
I know right, it's a bit strange to look at
What if the primer wont work
It depends if some of the fuel made it to the carb. It might start then. However if none of the fuel made to the carb and the primer doesn't work then you might have to replace it.
Amazing
thank you
You are the second person who i have watched just replace the metering diaphragm.. basically and that's it. lazy.. you had the carb off take it apart completely. remove the adjustment screws. and poke every and spray every passage way you can see with carb cleaner to clear them out. But i guess if you reall want to be lazy order a carb on line for 10 bucks or less.
Super lazy
The FS 36 is funny😂
Its certainly strange looking for a Stihl. Thank you for your time and I appreciate it
4:07
"Its 'stihl' usable."
Lol
you got the joke. thanks for the comment
Half the time those carb rebuild kits dont work
Buy a new carb. Get OEM carbs.
Great tip. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Why ? That Zama is a Chinese carb that your paying 4 to 5 times more for.
Oops! Just noticed that it’s a Walbro. Must be really old as all Stihls now have Zama carbs as they bought Zama. That Walbro is worth trying to fix.
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I think the previous owner got pissed a and tossed it around.
I have an FS 38, biggest pos I've ever seen.
that's a real possibility, its definitely not my favorite stihl product.
this is actually a way better trimmer than the new ones, I have this one, and a brand new one, I wouldn't give you a pinch of coon shit for the new one, burns your elbow when you run it, I mean what asshole would put it on the market without ever testing it.
nicely said Dave Trotter.
Remove the the limiter
Thank you Pete Froud for the comment I appreciate it.
Best way to fix a stihl is throw it out and get an echo
did you have a problem with a stihl before?
Home Garage i had a chainsaw and a trimmer nothing but problems! I have had no problems with echo equipment! The best chainsaw i ever had is my echo CS-400 hands down!!!
Stihls quality control kinda sucks lately, I work at a shop and pretty much half the fs 131 and other machines with the same engine have been having carb failures left and right for the last year. Install a new carb under warranty and the mfer is leaking again by the time the customer picks it up. Echo may win me over too.
@@jameshankssr466 yes that is a great saw
@@jessemalone8363 yes quality control is very important. Thanks for the comment
Nope would buy a new carb. Thank you
Good choice!
What is wrong with this trimmer
the metering diaphragm was stiff so it needed to be replaced
Throw that horrible rusty looking Champion spark plug in the rubbish!
you are absolutely right about that
Anu airenognihc em oivris ed ohcum sodulas
remove it
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it