Thanks so much, Jody. This was an amazing video. I`m a little bit speechless. Yeah, I think my instructor did make us do this so we could make fill/ cap passes on V-grooves and pipe. I had never even heard of this weld until I went to school. We haven't done pipe in the intro to TIG class, but we did V-grooves, and they were quite a bit easier than the 1/4 T-joints. I`m so glad you were able to work this joint in with your other projects. It means a lot, and this video was extremely informative. I could still use some practice on this joint because they never came out the way I wanted in class, but especially now, I think I can perfect it. I finished intro to TIG, but still need practice to be as good as I want. This will still come in handy for sure. I appreciate you doing a video based on my comment. I can't tell you how amazing that was to see. Keep the videos coming ;) P.S. I ended up with a 94 in that class, despite struggling with this joint. I don't think grades mean that much in welding school, but the point it, I still did pretty well after all ;)
Thanks for sharing with us Jody. That was pretty nice what you did in this video to help someone out and a lot of other folks will benefit from it too Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Those tig fingers are incredibly helpful. Got one of the large and one of the small. Super durable and cheap! Incredible how much longer you can weld when you have one on.
Outstanding Jody.....I have learned to love my on/off switch on my Synchrowave 250 and the Dynasty 280DX... .I weld a lot of 1/8 x 1.5 x1.5 inch 6061 sq tube frames that are 3x5x6 feet.....and having to move a foot pedal around is a real pain in the tokas....I give myself a 2 second downslope/crater fill so if I am getting too hot, I can back off the amps that way.....no upslope on the Synchro of course....it really seems to work great.....by the way, I have found, the Jazzy 10 and stubby kit I bought from you is the ticket for me.and the TriMix [purple] from CK seems to hold the best on the Synchrowave....Lanthated just cant cut it....but I do use that on the Dyanasty.... ....these are beveled butt joints and t joints, and I have found the extra electrode stick out really helps this old man...[turned 71 a few months ago, haha] yeah, I get a big etched line, but the butt joints get ground flush and powder coated.....I really appreciate all you have shared and taught me over the last 14 or 15 years....wow.....no wonder why my hair is turning gray and falling out... cheers from Orlando, Paulie from weld . com
Thank you for another great video, i was thinking about how the different "the welding culture" is from USA to Europe, like you never see a foot petal in europe, and the type of tig torch that is common, also the welding teknik called "arc on arc" where you Are to Guys welding stainless, one on each side, where you follow eachother around, eg. Welding a big tank.
Wow Jody, just LOVE those "old fashioned" knobs on the Primeweld machine. As you may have heard they changed them to yellow in color and eliminated the line on the outside diameter of the knob. Also they used WHITE on Yellow such that the indicators are practically invisible on the new knobs. I let them know it was a poor decision to create knobs with invisible indicators (It's nearly always a problem letting marketing considerations change the product). They say they've redesigned the knobs to have a black line on the yellow, and I'm on the list to get a replacement set (gratis). Those knobs on your machine are about perfect-but they did away with them for "fashion" sake (branding/marketing). Hate it when marketing screws with design functionality. Love it when a company realizes their mistake and is willing to help the users caught with the compromised design. But then I think I'm going to put some chicken head knobs on the welder anyway for style AND functionality. 🤪
One more thing about that machine Jody, I know it's a "MMA" (whatever that means) stick welding thing which is not in effect while TIG welding BUT since you're on the 325TIG in this video, I thought I'd inquire as to your thoughts on the topic. There's nothing in the PrimeWeld manual addressing two settings designed for stick/SMAW. "ARC FORCE" and "HOT START" are clearly labeled on the machine, but are never mentioned in the current TIG325 manual. I didn't look at the 225 manual (just did, those settings don't exist on the 225). Primeweld has "cleared it up" for me, but I already kinda knew from watching guys use other machines with those settings. I haven't even hooked up my stinger for burning rods yet-I'll do that when things warm up. I always thought the choice of electrode (coating) determined penetration characteristics, now we have "arc force" to play with. Could be interesting, might be confusing to some. What parameter of DC are they manipulating to create more/less force I wonder?
WHOOT: Found one WTT video on "arc force" with a different machine. I'll re-watch it. The title is "7018 Uphill & arc force" for anyone else wanting to know more.
I haven’t stick welded with the 325 yet but hot start gives hotter arc for a short time for better starts. Arc control gives softer or more aggressive arcs by sensing arc length
hi great video as always giving us a chance to learn a lot of new things but i want to ask something. sometimes I try to repeat your exercises and I notice that the amperage you use is too strong in my experience and I wonder if since I am from Europe with a voltage of 220 volts current the amperage is stronger?🤔
Hi Jody, I need to weld a 10mm fin plate to a 125 x 125mm post and I'm a much better TIG welder than with stick, also the position is over glass balustrade and stone paving so don't want red hot BB's dropping onto any of that. It's outdoors so there is the problem of containing the Argon. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Weld is verticle and fin plate is 200 x 70 x 10mm thick.
Jody I'm an old welder in Australia. I find reflective light coming into the back of my helmet really effects my vision. I'm thinking of trying these new welding masks do you have a position on those? I dont do much tig but when i do with my old eyes i can barely see the puddling particularly on small joint material fuel tanks etc you might have some tips?.
I have to do a .025 to .060 fillet for a customer at work. I’ve tried EVERYTHING and can’t seem to not get suck back on the .025 plate. Any tips are welcome !
Hey Jody, I'm doing the tig welding for our FFA competition and I was wondering what you had to say about it. Using 1/8" carbon steel pipe to plate t weld and having troubles with burn through, running around 100-110 amps.
Hey I’m a student I’m doing the same thing but up hill with the same setup you have i just feel really awkward when going up and I’m having a hard time with the wire forming droplets instead of weaving along with having issues stacking them any advice I want to get good at this but I’m having a really hard time
able to post a video about 3g pulse mig downhill? i was under the impression pulse mig should alway be uphill but my work likes to do tests down hill, i having a really hard time with blowing through my open root plate, if i get my root fine i usually get lack of fusion in my fill and caps during the bend test
If a guy was welding .625 titanium in open air for a test. What would you recommend for amperage. Having embrittlement isssues. What heat range would a guy keep the part in during pass and interpass.
I have seen some welders using a technique where the pulse with foot pedal only adding one dab before tapering amperage off all the way to keep heat from building up. This is repeated again and again. Slow go but it does prevent grain growth. My personal experience with titanium is in aerospace so much thinner than .625”. Sometimes in a chamber but open air too. We used chill bars when possible
@weldingtipsandtricks what is more likely to cause a brittle Ti weld? Over heating, welding on a part thats too cold or heat cycling the part too many times. I appreciate your input.
@@trilledskadesman3922 the main things that cause embrittlement are oxidation and grain growth. Oxidation is prevented by argon shielding on all areas outside and inside. Grain growth is caused by too much heat for too long. That’s why some procedures call for very low inter pass temperatures and also utilize the on off foot pedal techniques.
I'm an prospective international customer to the Weldmonger store. I'm trying to contact you but I'm not getting responses. My email is from December 18th.
our apologizes....occasionally our emails get blocked by overzealous spam filters . I couldn't find your email but please try again at weldmongerstore.com/community/contact
Thanks so much, Jody. This was an amazing video. I`m a little bit speechless. Yeah, I think my instructor did make us do this so we could make fill/ cap passes on V-grooves and pipe. I had never even heard of this weld until I went to school. We haven't done pipe in the intro to TIG class, but we did V-grooves, and they were quite a bit easier than the 1/4 T-joints. I`m so glad you were able to work this joint in with your other projects. It means a lot, and this video was extremely informative. I could still use some practice on this joint because they never came out the way I wanted in class, but especially now, I think I can perfect it. I finished intro to TIG, but still need practice to be as good as I want. This will still come in handy for sure. I appreciate you doing a video based on my comment. I can't tell you how amazing that was to see. Keep the videos coming ;)
P.S.
I ended up with a 94 in that class, despite struggling with this joint. I don't think grades mean that much in welding school, but the point it, I still did pretty well after all ;)
Congratulations on the 94. Wish you the best
Thanks for sharing with us Jody. That was pretty nice what you did in this video to help someone out and a lot of other folks will benefit from it too Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Thank you for your time and efforts. As an old guy in the business I appreciate you showing others how to do it properly.
I wouldn’t be the welder I am today without my tig finger. Thanks Jody👍
Pony-tail holder! What a great idea. Thanks for another excellent video.
Loving the clear and crisp camera shots! Always good material to use as a suppliment for my welding students!
Those tig fingers are incredibly helpful. Got one of the large and one of the small. Super durable and cheap! Incredible how much longer you can weld when you have one on.
Video quality on this looks great! Thanks for your videos, and your PDF's on your website.
Outstanding Jody.....I have learned to love my on/off switch on my Synchrowave 250 and the Dynasty 280DX...
.I weld a lot of 1/8 x 1.5 x1.5 inch 6061 sq tube frames that are 3x5x6 feet.....and having to move a foot pedal around
is a real pain in the tokas....I give myself a 2 second downslope/crater fill so if I am getting too hot, I can back off
the amps that way.....no upslope on the Synchro of course....it really seems to work great.....by the way, I have
found, the Jazzy 10 and stubby kit I bought from you is the ticket for me.and the TriMix [purple] from CK seems to
hold the best on the Synchrowave....Lanthated just cant cut it....but I do use that on the Dyanasty....
....these are beveled butt joints and t joints,
and I have found the extra electrode stick out really helps this old man...[turned 71 a few months ago, haha] yeah,
I get a big etched line, but the butt joints get ground flush and powder coated.....I really appreciate all you have
shared and taught me over the last 14 or 15 years....wow.....no wonder why my hair is turning gray and falling out...
cheers from Orlando, Paulie from weld . com
thanks for the input Paul, I do the same sometimes with a trigger and downslope where it makes sense.
On first pass theres a big gap between plates. Helps a lot on penetration.
Thank you for another great video, i was thinking about how the different "the welding culture" is from USA to Europe, like you never see a foot petal in europe, and the type of tig torch that is common, also the welding teknik called "arc on arc" where you Are to Guys welding stainless, one on each side, where you follow eachother around, eg. Welding a big tank.
Wow Jody, just LOVE those "old fashioned" knobs on the Primeweld machine. As you may have heard they changed them to yellow in color and eliminated the line on the outside diameter of the knob. Also they used WHITE on Yellow such that the indicators are practically invisible on the new knobs.
I let them know it was a poor decision to create knobs with invisible indicators (It's nearly always a problem letting marketing considerations change the product). They say they've redesigned the knobs to have a black line on the yellow, and I'm on the list to get a replacement set (gratis). Those knobs on your machine are about perfect-but they did away with them for "fashion" sake (branding/marketing). Hate it when marketing screws with design functionality. Love it when a company realizes their mistake and is willing to help the users caught with the compromised design.
But then I think I'm going to put some chicken head knobs on the welder anyway for style AND functionality. 🤪
Also I did share a screenshot of your knobs from this video to remind those guys what a good knob they had.
THANKS ALOT FOR SHARING SOME MORE KNOWLEDGE WITH US.
One more thing about that machine Jody, I know it's a "MMA" (whatever that means) stick welding thing which is not in effect while TIG welding BUT since you're on the 325TIG in this video, I thought I'd inquire as to your thoughts on the topic. There's nothing in the PrimeWeld manual addressing two settings designed for stick/SMAW. "ARC FORCE" and "HOT START" are clearly labeled on the machine, but are never mentioned in the current TIG325 manual. I didn't look at the 225 manual (just did, those settings don't exist on the 225). Primeweld has "cleared it up" for me, but I already kinda knew from watching guys use other machines with those settings. I haven't even hooked up my stinger for burning rods yet-I'll do that when things warm up. I always thought the choice of electrode (coating) determined penetration characteristics, now we have "arc force" to play with. Could be interesting, might be confusing to some. What parameter of DC are they manipulating to create more/less force I wonder?
WHOOT: Found one WTT video on "arc force" with a different machine. I'll re-watch it. The title is "7018 Uphill & arc force" for anyone else wanting to know more.
I haven’t stick welded with the 325 yet but hot start gives hotter arc for a short time for better starts. Arc control gives softer or more aggressive arcs by sensing arc length
@@weldingtipsandtricks Thanks Jody.
Can you show how to do aluminum in a 2f position. Using 3/8 tungsten and 1/8 filler. Thanks.
hi great video as always giving us a chance to learn a lot of new things but i want to ask something. sometimes I try to repeat your exercises and I notice that the amperage you use is too strong in my experience and I wonder if since I am from Europe with a voltage of 220 volts current the amperage is stronger?🤔
Not sure about that. I think I tend to weld hot sometimes tho
Hi Jody, I need to weld a 10mm fin plate to a 125 x 125mm post and I'm a much better TIG welder than with stick, also the position is over glass balustrade and stone paving so don't want red hot BB's dropping onto any of that. It's outdoors so there is the problem of containing the Argon. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Weld is verticle and fin plate is 200 x 70 x 10mm thick.
Hi Jody At 160 amp was your touch a17 or 26 . Please keep on with your videos very educational many thanks.
17 style torch
Super vidéo et les commentaires et explications magnifiques.
Merci.
Jody I'm an old welder in Australia. I find reflective light coming into the back of my helmet really effects my vision. I'm thinking of trying these new welding masks do you have a position on those? I dont do much tig but when i do with my old eyes i can barely see the puddling particularly on small joint material fuel tanks etc you might have some tips?.
Dunk your aluminum block occasionally to cool it down.
I have to do a .025 to .060 fillet for a customer at work. I’ve tried EVERYTHING and can’t seem to not get suck back on the .025 plate. Any tips are welcome !
Always an awesome and informative video ! 👍👌
That's why i love my job .
Hey Jody, is that a Primeweld fixture table?
yes it is
Hi Jody, great video! Could you tell me who makes that torch switch? I've been looking for one and can't seem to find the one you're using.
It came with the PrimeWeld TIG225. You can find generic switches just like it online at amazon or ebay but finding the right plug is key...
Very good jop sir 😊
Hey Jody, I'm doing the tig welding for our FFA competition and I was wondering what you had to say about it. Using 1/8" carbon steel pipe to plate t weld and having troubles with burn through, running around 100-110 amps.
Sometimes it helps to go hotter and faster.
@@weldingtipsandtricks Alrighty, thank you!
Hey I’m a student I’m doing the same thing but up hill with the same setup you have i just feel really awkward when going up and I’m having a hard time with the wire forming droplets instead of weaving along with having issues stacking them any advice I want to get good at this but I’m having a really hard time
You might try a shorter stickout so that the tungsten angle doesn’t aim so much at the tip of the filler rod
able to post a video about 3g pulse mig downhill? i was under the impression pulse mig should alway be uphill but my work likes to do tests down hill, i having a really hard time with blowing through my open root plate, if i get my root fine i usually get lack of fusion in my fill and caps during the bend test
I can try. What type of job is it?
@@weldingtipsandtricks 3/8 open root steel plate. pulse mig 3g position, downhill only
how do you film the arc
If a guy was welding .625 titanium in open air for a test. What would you recommend for amperage. Having embrittlement isssues. What heat range would a guy keep the part in during pass and interpass.
I have seen some welders using a technique where the pulse with foot pedal only adding one dab before tapering amperage off all the way to keep heat from building up. This is repeated again and again. Slow go but it does prevent grain growth. My personal experience with titanium is in aerospace so much thinner than .625”. Sometimes in a chamber but open air too. We used chill bars when possible
@weldingtipsandtricks what is more likely to cause a brittle Ti weld? Over heating, welding on a part thats too cold or heat cycling the part too many times. I appreciate your input.
@@trilledskadesman3922 the main things that cause embrittlement are oxidation and grain growth. Oxidation is prevented by argon shielding on all areas outside and inside. Grain growth is caused by too much heat for too long. That’s why some procedures call for very low inter pass temperatures and also utilize the on off foot pedal techniques.
Sink aerator make a good lenses for $.27 each.
Why?
I wish i could see my puddle that good :(
I'm an prospective international customer to the Weldmonger store. I'm trying to contact you but I'm not getting responses. My email is from December 18th.
I've also asked Jeff Sharpe from CK Worldwide to contact you to get things moving.
My email had the title: Interest in purchase.
our apologizes....occasionally our emails get blocked by overzealous spam filters . I couldn't find your email but please try again at weldmongerstore.com/community/contact
@@weldingtipsandtricks Thanks I used the contact page like you suggested.
Sir video lesar wilding
Too slow