Dziękuję za ten wspaniały film instruktażowy !!!! Proszę trzymać go na youtube, ponieważ będę potrzebować go, aby przekonwertować 3 moje nieudane baterie !!! "Jestem po angielsku i używam Google translate, więc proszę o usprawiedliwienie biednej gramatyki: D"
Thanks for nice instructions. Very good to learn. Question: Where to get the Li Po battery that fits in? The ones I see are all too long about 135mm. seems I need shorter for my Phanton 2.
There are two kinds of Multistar 5200mAh batteries. Long ones - 3s1p (and those are too long) and short ones - 3s2p and they fit in perfectly. Look in Hobbyking
still no need to try to perform your magic but wanted to thank you for posting the video online and for replying to people questions so persistently, best wishes :)
I just came from my workshop ...and it works! super fantastic, great! looking forward now for my test flight, but first I have to organice the right battery/size. Hot thank's to Verid1st :-)
I'm very happy that it worked out for You. As for the battery - Multistar 3S2P 5200mAh shown in the vid fits perfectly and gives very good flight times. Check out second vid - I did some tests with this Lipo and I'm very happy with it.
Will this mod work without the blue and green wires? I am not sure what they are connected to in your video and I don't see any clear solder points on my cut PCB. Sorry, I don't speak Polish
If You refer to a schematic used as a thumbnail for this vid the answer is no. PCB monitors each cell independently during charge and discharge process so ALL balancer cables must be connected. If You refer to cables I used in the vid, it's double NO. These are communication cables and without those Phantom will not see battery as DJI battery and it will refuse to start. As for the connection, I strongly suggest using original DJI cable to make connetions to balancer cable and communication port. Soldering those thin cables to PCB will be real PITA. EDIT - vid schould have english subtitles, just turn them on.
@@Verid1st Thank you for the quick reply and the advice. I want to solder those two data connection wires to my PCB, I've followed the other steps the same as you had done. How were you able to locate the traces for yours? I don't see anything with my own eyes even under a magnifying glass as to where the traces are in the pcb.
@@CinnTech0451 Those traces are indeed hard to find because of black paint but if You look closely, You'll notice that they are a little bit higher than the rest of the PCB. Alternatively, You can dril tiny holes at the sides of the connection plates, fill them with solder and use them as soldering points. Just avoid drilling in the middle of these contact squares. Contacts inside Phantom are spring loaded but might not like extra layers on contact points.
Thank you for a perfect manual! I have one question, do you charge it with original DJI charger, or do you use a balancer cable and balancer charger? Thank´s in advance!
You can use both as You please. I mostly used original charger because I had to "teach" the electronics that I use brand new cells in order to get longer flight times. Check out part 2 of this vid. I explained the process there.
Many thanks to that video! I have one question - the plate traces which go to two data circles near main charger port, are very thin and go parallel and very close to each other. So, how did you manage to solder it without short circuit, and if I wouldnt do that, can I solder those two wires directly to those two circles? Thank you once again!
Hi Pawel. PCB traces are indeed quite thin but I'm sure that You'll make it. I just carefully removed paint from one trace, soldered the cable and then removed paint from another trace and soldered second cable but almost 1 cm away from first solder point to avoid short-circuit. You can see it more precisely at 8:57. I wouldn't recommend soldering directly to pads - don't know how contacts inside Phantom would react to that.
Could you please tell me the make and type of battery you are using , is a 3s or 4s , been trying to get the correct battery but every time so far they have been TOO long.
Hi Verid1st, you mention that the PCB might need to be connected to the charger to rectify the boltage difference... Do you do this with the replacement battery pluged in or out?
YES! You see, PCB doesn't know that You replaced the cells and since previous cells gave only a fraction of the nominal capacity, PCB will raise voltage alarm sooner to protect the craft from falling from the sky. Note that PCB monitors Amps that go in and out of the cells, not voltage levels. To use full capacity of Your new battery You need to "teach" PCB that it has brand new cells. To do that You must charge with original charger and then deeply discharge several times Your new battery - check out my second vid, I described that process in detail.
verid1st I have done this same hack. question is do you still use the DJI charger or do you disconnect it and us a balance charger. I believe I would use the DJI smart charger. any answers?
Both. Mainly I use DJI charger as my IMAX is busy with other batteries but in the field where only source of power is my car, DJI charger is pretty useless so I charge everything with IMAX.
Ok I am using my IMAX with all my other batteries. So it is possible to pop the cover off and plug it into the charger, and it will charge normally like with the DJI. Now in the video where you show you having to discharge to 8% and recharge for DJI assist to recognize the full MaH of the battery. Did you use the DJI charger to get the smart chip all "synced" with the battery?
Yes, mostly. In order to "teach" smart chip that it has new, better cells, all charging and deep discharging must be done through the chip so either use original DJI charger or use IMAX in Pb mode (not NiMH as previously stated).
So when charging threw the DJI smart battery port charge with the IMAX w/DJI attachment, it should be in NiMH mode? Any reason for this? Is this due to the smart chip controlling cell balancing during charging, so you basically just need to feed the battery a charge, so no lipo mode, no pb mode, just NiMH will work using the IMAX with a DJI attachment, and the smart chip will detect full charge and stop the IMAX? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. -Brandon
I guess what I'm wondering is, once you have everything hooked up to the DJI battery mod cover. Is that where you charge threw or do you remove the multistar battery from the smart chip mod, and just charge that battery itself on the IMAX. I'm assuming you will always charge threw the DJI port so that it charges threw the chip into the multistar battery. Or does it not even matter, Charge battery by itself with the IMAX in lipo balance mode, or with the stock DJI charger, with battery and mod connected, or the IMAX with the DJI attachment in NiMH mode with the mod connected? This is the only multistar I have so far, and 2 stock batterys. So I was going to just use the mod as my 3rd battery right now so I was just wondering if I should disconnect it to charge or just plug it in to the DJI wall charger. Thanks sorry for these long messages. I know it's not rocket science, I just want to make sure I charge and discharge correctly. Thanks -Brandon
Nice video but on the diagram is 2 cabels yellow and pink (on video blue and green) i cant understsnd where is it soldering on the 2 coppers? On diagram is like one cabel the one copper and the other one to the second copper, but on video i cant see this like diagram. Only the blue cabel is in the near from one of the copper but not on it..and about the green cabel is nothink to see where is it soldering? Have do you any picture of more details?
It's been literally years since I sold my Phantom so unfortunately I will not be able to provide any additional pictures but I'll try to explain it as clearly as I can. Phantom needs to communicate with the battery electronics, otherwise it will return error and refuse to start. This communication is done via two golden plates near the main battery connector. From there run two thin PCB traces to the multi wire connector and then (via black cables) to the upper board. They are barely visible because of the black paint. Since I removed majority of the lower board, it was necessary to recreate those connections. On the diagram they are represented by pink and yellow and in the video they were made from blue and green wire. I found remnants of the original PCB traces near main connector, scraped black paint and attached the wires there to avoid polluting the golden plates as they are crucial for proper connection. So if You want to recreate this mod in similar way, You need to find those PCB traces, scrape some paint and solder Your cables there. Just remember not to mix those two or communication will fail.
Różnie. Jak jeszcze były dostępne to Hobbyking miał je za nieco ponad dwie stówy ale udało mi się też trafić na Alle za jakieś 180PLN z drugiej ręki ale oryginalnie zapakowany. Niestety od dłuższego już czasu HK wycofało się z tych Multistarów i dostanie takiego pakietu graniczy z cudem.
@@Paczak_ No to po kolei: -czy będzie dobra? Pod względem pojemności i napięcia jest ok. Kłopot będzie z wymiarem bo te Multistary były idealnie gabarytu oryginalnych cel Phantoma dzięki czemu ładnie mieściły się do komory baterii. Tu podejrzewam że będziesz musiał coś zakombinować z mocowaniem. Przemierz dobrze komorę i porównaj z danymi na aukcji czy ci to wejdzie i ile ewentualnie będzie wystawać. -ile wytrzyma? Tu niestety nie pomogę. Tego konkretnie pakietu nigdy nie miałem w ręku a niebieskie Turnigy ogólnie jako baterie mają bardzo duży rozstrzał jakości. Możesz trafić rewelacyjną sztukę która odpowiednio traktowana będzie ci służyć póki ci się kopter nie znudzi a możesz trafić bubla który ci spuchnie po kilku lotach.
@@Verid1st Mam też taki problem że mam drona z kamerką gitup2 i podgląd FPV jest a gdy zmieniam na SJ CAM 7 to podglądu nie ma. Nie wiesz może dlaczego tak jest i jak to naprawić ? Jakieś inne piny czy co. Kamerkę podpinam taśmą z gimbala. Gitup2 muszę oddać a podgląd by mi się przydał.
Phantom battery has build-in balancer so You don't need to balance it externally. Use original electronics to charge/discharge battery after swap and it should be balanced pretty well.
First, great vid, very well presented. I'm doing the mod now and have a question about the data wires. It looks like the blue wire is soldered to the negative, but I cant tell where to solder the green wire (data wire). Is it soldered on the back of the small square data pad ? Any help would be great.
No, no, no - data cables DO NOT go to negative or to positive. Take a look at this pic: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg (if You can't open it just drop me Your mail and I'll send it directly). Data cables go to their respective data pads. I just left some PCB traces to solder cables on the side of the main connector but they DO NOT connect to the power cables. You may damage Your battery PCB or Phantom if You solder data cables to power output!
Thanks for share the video, very good and helpful. Thanks for putting English subtitles on for us ignorant English lol. Google translation, Dzięki za udział w filmie, bardzo dobry i pomocny. Dzięki za umieszczenie na angielskimi napisami dla nas ignoranta angielskim lol.
Hello! First of all, I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. So, I followed your instructions step by step, but I have now run into a problem: the drone turns on as usual, but the motors won't start. Did I do something wrong during the rewiring process? What else could be going on? I also connected a charger to the PCB main connector and all four LED's are now lighting up. Thank you in advance!
Check the Assistant for additional info. I suspect communication problem (swapped data wires or faulty connection. In such case Assistant should display some info like "non-DJI battery" and copter will turn on but won't start the motors. Not sure what to think about all LEDs on when connected to the charger symptom - never seen anything like that.
Hi, nice mod. How did you charge the battery? with an external source or the original DJI? Estimated flight time? I am eager to try this experiment but I have these doubts.
Original DJI. Check out second part vid - battery electronics must learn that they have brand new cells under control or you'll have same crappy flight times. After several cycles of deep discharge (deep for electronics, not the battery mind you) I got flight times comparable or even slightly better than brand new battery. Problem is that the batteries I used are no longer available/ Not sure how system would react to different capacity or different C batteries.
@@Verid1st Thanks for the information friend. What was the discharge rate C of your battery? I see that you also told another user that it is convenient to put a 3SP2 battery for convenience in size, since a 3SP1 would take up space and would not allow the connection piece to be put in its place. Unfortunately in my country (Argentina) I can't get 3SP2 batteries but it is enough for me to be able to raise my Phantom 2 with Dys 3-axis gimbal, SJcam 5000x and its DJI AVL58 transmission system for FPV, I have read that the battery reading in telemetry is not correct but I think it's a lesser evil as long as you fly high and take beautiful photos and videos wherever you go.
@@leo-nar-do Those MultiStar 5200mAh in 3s2p configuration were rated 12C and had exactly same size as original Ph2 cells. Unfortunately, HK does not sell them anymore. Of course You can use higher C rate but keep in mind that more C also means more grams. 3S 5200mAh 40C will be heavier than 3S 5200mAh 20C. As for the telemetry, You should "teach" battery electronics that new cells are connected. Battery's PCB monitors not only voltage but also current - how many Amps went out and how many Amps went in during charging. With old cells not many Amps go in so PCB scales bettery precentage and with new cells it will show 0% even if there's plenty of charge remaining. That's why You should do deep discharge few times. To show PCB that it can actually take more Amps from new cells. Voltage monitoring remains the same as it prevents cells from overdischarging.
@@Verid1st Thank you very much friend, really with so much information and experience that you had I can enter with more security to make the modification, I already discovered the connections of each cell and I am hoping to sell a couple of objects that I have in disuse to buy that battery replacement, since here the imported things have a high value but not exorbitant as the value of the original or third-party batteries for the Phantom 2.
Witam. Czy może pam mi powiedzieć czy we wszysykich płytkach baterii Ph2 podłaczenie balansera jest takie samo? Mógłbym wysłać fotkę swojej elektroniki na priw. gdybym tylko miał adres.
Czy we wszystkich - nie wiem, rozebrałem zaledwie jedną, oryginalną, i tu nie spodziewam się odstępstw ale w temacie zamienników już nie byłbym taki pewien. Chińscy producenci substytutów mogą mieć własne wizje na konstrukcję pakietu. W razie czego łatwo to sprawdzić miernikiem - wystarczy odpiąć taśmę od dolnej płytki i zobaczyć który pin łączy z którym polem lutowniczym pakietu.
Zrobiłem tak jak w pana filmie i wszystko działa. Pakiet Multistar 5200 mah. Oryginalna bateria po 30 ładowaniach padła, podczas lotu po 20-30 sekundach od startu spada napięcie poniżej 10,6 v i Phantom automatycznie ląduje mimo to ze jest w pełni naładowana. Zostały jeszcze testy nowego pakietu. Dziękuję.
Cieszę się że się udało. Rzuć jeszcze okiem na drugi filmik z serii - trzeba "przyzwyczaić" elektronikę do pracy z Multistarem bo na początku czasy lotu będą niemal tak samo kiepskie jak z oryginalnymi celami.
hi, congratulation. smart and cool. I would like to follow the procedure, but I can't properly see how the two wire from the balancer connector goes to the two leads on front connector pads? I would appreciate have further details.Very best thank to you! you are helping me to keep DJI flying.
Gilson Alves also had some trouble with cables :) Try this link i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg If You have trouble viewing it just drop me PM with Your email and I'll send it directly to You.
Witam. Man pytanie kupiłem gniazdo z balancerem. Jak się okazało wszystkie kable były odwrotnie niż powinny. Doszło do spiecia po podłączeniu do baterii. Czy mogło to wysadzić jakieś szkody w elektronice.
Skoro napisał Pan "spięcie", mniemam że odwrotnemu połączeniu towarzyszyły efekty audiowizualne - to raczej nigdy nie robi dobrze elektronice. Niestety nie potrafię odpowiedzieć na pytanie co konkretnie mogło paść ani jak to naprawić...
ok dziękuje za odpowiedz. Będę musiał ścignąć gościa który mi sprzedał ten bubel. A miało być tak pięknie. następnym razem będę uważniejszy. Dzięki za super poradnik :)
Są pewne szanse że nic się nie stało bo zakładając że najpierw polutował Pan poprawnie główne kable zasilające to odwrotne podłączenie złącza balancera spowodowało zwarcie w samej baterii i upieczenie wtyczki balancera (zwarcie plusa i minusa). BTW - Radzę ją dokładnie sprawdzić przed dalszymi zabawami bo niepewny kontakt w tym miejscu może się słabo skończyć w locie. Jeżeli tak się stało to możliwe że obeszło się bez uszkodzeń w samej elektronice baterii jednak zalecam daleko posuniętą ostrożność w użytkowaniu i solidne testy w zasięgu wzroku i na małej wysokości.
Niestety zwarcie spowodowało uszkodzenie elektroniki baterii. Wraz z nową elektroniką udało się wszystko podłączyć jak należy i wszystko działa jak należy. Poradnik bardzo pomocny polecam :)
Hi, thank you for the great video. Can you tell me if this will work with a Phantom 2 Vision battery? I opened mine but it looks a bit different than in your video.
Should work but be careful and take closer look at the original connections - see post below by Thomas Reddin. His battery internals are also a little different and he has problem putting it back together so pay attention how original cells are connected and connect Your battery EXACTLY the same way, especially double check balancer connections as they are crucial for proper battery status reporting and charging process.
cześć @Verid mam pytanie wiem że bardzo dawno temu nagrywałeś ten poradnik ale może mi odpowiesz bo aktualnie borykam się z problemem przy tej przeróbce a mianowicie takim że zrobiłem ją podłączyłem akumulator i niby wszystko działa w programie dji bateria zgłasza się z pojemnością 4000 sama ma 5200 wiem że można to naprawić "głębokim rozładowaniem robiąc to parę razy" ale choć bateria ma full a w programie pokazuje 99% i 4000mha to dron sam ląduje już po 1 albo 2 lotu dziś nawet przepalił 2 kable od balansera w przerobionej elektronice nie dałem tam wcale takich cienkich kabli może to przez moje nie udolne lutowanie ale dron tak czy tak ląduje sam po 1 lub 2 min lotu masz na to jakiś pomysł co może być nie tak? a i po tym 2 min locie bateria ma 11.9 v a czasem nawet 12 czy to wina baterii ? czy coś popsułem
Nie sądzę żebyś cokolwiek popsuł choć gwarancji nie ma 😉Elektronika baterii pamięta ile ampów wchodzi i ile ampów wychodzi. Napięcie baterii to dla niej rzecz drugorzedna i tu może leżeć twój problem. Tak jak zauważyłeś, trzeba ją "przeszkolić" kilka razy pozornie głębokim rozładowaniem bo inaczej nowe cele będzie traktować jak te stare, dobite. Piszę "pozornie" głębokim bo elektronice będzie się wydawać że w pakiecie już nic nie ma (no bo ampy wyszły) a ty złośliwie będziesz dalej pałował maszynę. Jak masz OSD to sprawa jest banalna - zapinasz pakiet i latasz aż druniu sam nie usiądzie. Jak usiądzie to gada w łapę, tylko tak żeby cię nie pochlastał, odpalasz silniki i w palnik mu choćby nie wiem jak protestował. Na OSD monitorujesz napięcie i pałujesz sprzęta tak długo aż nie sięgniesz 9V na pakiecie co ci daje 3V na celę czyli jeszcze bezpiecznie. Wyłączasz, dajesz ostygnąć po czym ładujesz PRZEZ elektronikę baterii. Wtedy elektronika wykmini że w pakiet weszło wincyj ampów jak ostatnim razem. Powtórz ten manewr tak ze trzy razy to powinieneś mieć widoczną poprawę. Co do kabli balancera - polutuj BARDZO PORZĄDNIE. Ich rozłączenie w trakcie lotu to sygnał dla drunia że ma krytyczną awarię i na mur beton się zbiesi. Nie chcesz tego.
@@Verid1st okej ma to sens ale sensu dla mnie nie ma że czasem choć bateria niby spałowana a dron ląduje to za chwilę magicznie pojawiają się 3 kreski naładowania i to mnie trochę dziwi tak czy tak kupiłem 2 pakiet lipo więc czkam na niego i mam nadzieje że na nim elektronika w końcu się wyuczy że ma full a nie 3900 mha
@@Verid1st a i rozumiem że jeśli rozładowałem aku tak że miga ostatnia kreska a w programie dostępne mha jest 0 i naładowanie 0 to starczy żeby nauczyć elektronikę
Hi, can you show me how to connect cables to the balancer. I'm doing something wrong. Batteries in phantom illuminates, but the propellers not turning. Please help.
Cześć. Wykonałem przeróbkę i wszystko działa, tylko po rozładowaniu do 3.4V na celę (0% na osd) i po ładowaniu dalej mam 3300mAh pojemności. Co robić? Pozdrawiam!
Obejrzeć drugą część dotyczącą "przyuczania" elektroniki do nowego pakietu :) W skrócie - elektronika pamięta że ma badziewne cele. Trzeba ją przekonać że jest inaczej. Zero na OSD oznacza że wysiorbałeś z pakietu tyle ile elektronika pamięta że może oddać. Trzymając kopter w łapie męcz go gazem aż nie osiągniesz 3,0V na celę. Potem naładuj ale koniecznie przez elektronikę, np. oryginalną ładowarką. Powtórz jeszcze ze 2-3 razy. Po każdym cyklu "procenty" powinny zachowywać się coraz lepiej i powinieneś obserwować wzrost dostępnych mAh w asystencie.
Hej, odgrzewam kotleta, bo wyciągnąłem ph z piwnicy ale bateria jest padnięta. Orientujesz się jakie inne pakiety będą pasowały bo tych co Ty zastosowałeś już nie ma.
Verid1st wymiarami powinna pasować. Jak myślisz? hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-lihv-high-capacity-5200mah-3s2p-12c-multi-rotor-lipo-pack-xt60.html?queryID=5b18bf0082147f9ffb54b38ce8315ad9&objectID=78442&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products&___store=en_us
@@xrebelOLN Ta jest ciut większa i nie jest LiPo. Nie jestem pewien czy oryginalna elektronika dobrze zniesie podwyższone napięcie w sensie odczytów i związanych z tym alarmów. Na pewno nie doładuje LiHV jak powinna bo nie umie czyli cały proces nauki opisany w drugim wideo może wziąć w łeb. Ponadto może odczytać podwyższone napięcie LiHV jako przeładowanie czyli uszkodzenie i zablokuje się na amen. Oczywiście to dywagacja ale nie ryzykowałbym. Myślę że lepiej dorobić boczne koszyczki i użyć dwóch spiętych LiPo 2,6mAh albo przerobić komorę baterii pod pakiet innego kształtu niż kombinować z LiHV.
I'm doing this adaptation in my phantom 2 and I was able to connect the cells and make the battery board connect but next to the positive and negative power plug has other small plugs I want to know which is the positive and the negative of this small plug that stays in the phantom Because on the plate of the battery I have already identified through a photo that I found in google (if you see any errors in the digits, I apologize because I am from Brazil and I am using google translator rsrs).
Oh, You mean those small gold plates above main battery connector? That's data connector, not positive/negative. Try this pic: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg It must be connected as shown otherwise Phantom won't fly and display "Non original battery" message in the Assistant.
In my case It doesn't work.. I've only one flashing led even thought the lipo is full. It worked only once after charging the lipo . The drone started and it rapidly passed over 3-2-1 lamp flashing. I've retried to charge the lipo by the djy power supply but it was useless...very frustrating after so amount of work..
Did You try to cycle the battery several times with deep discharge each time like I did in second vid? My first flight time was....disappointing, considering that I was using brand new battery. But after several cycles of charge/deep discharge electronics adjusted to the new battery, giving very nice flight times. Remember that to do this You need to charge with DJI charger (or substitute) and discharge until Phantom shuts itself off.
@@Verid1st tą moją baterie trochę podladowalem i włączyłem drona ma 19 cykli ładowania. Ale dalej jeszcze nie wykrywa ładowarka . Dwie cele mają 3.7v a jedna 3.1v ile czasu ładować ładowarka od laptopa aby orginalna ładowarka znalazła akumulator?
@@prokoxgrinder2053 Szczerze nie miałem takiej sytuacji. Oryginalna ładowarka powinna widzieć bez problemu pakiet który ma 3.0V na celę. Niżej nigdy nie schodziłem ale to i tak mniej niż ty masz teraz. Być może nie podoba jej się tak drastyczna różnica między celami. #,7 a 3,1 to przepaść. Sprawdź też połączenia pomiędzy celami a elektroniką czy któreś nie siadło. BTW - jak chcesz ładować pakiet osobno, nie przez ładowarkę Phantoma to kup sobie ładowarkę modelarską, jakiegoś Imax'a czy coś. Zabawa z ładowarką do laptopa to proszenie się o zjaranie chałupy. Lipole modelarskie potrafią być cholernie wredne pod tym względem. Nie pytaj skąd wiem.
Not sure what are You asking about, please clarify... As for the DJI charger - yes, You can use it. Original battery circuit doesn't know that it is charging substitute battery instead of original cells and it will charge (and balance properly) substitute battery all the same.
Verid1st wich wire, for the balancer extensor must be linked with? I have an idea from when you showed wich ones are the positive and negative, but not so sure about the other two that are for communication. thx in advance!
Hi Thomas, try this link: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg If You have trouble viewing this image, just drop me Your email via PM and I'll send it to You directly.
Hey, cheers for the prompt reply. I think my board is different to yours, maybe a newer/older version of the battery. I can't get it to work, the battery is powering the Phantom as soon as I plug it in.
ibb.co/fnd3Um This is what I have right now. I can "power" the board on/off (the lights) but there is always power coming out of the socket that the phantom connects to. Love any help you can give me.
It looks more like Phantom 3 battery board (separate PCB's for "brain" and for socket). I haven't met such board before in Ph2 battery so I'm afraid I won't be much help but You sure You got all connections right? There's big solderpoint below B030Z55 chip. Shouldn't be something connected there? Take a look at my video about Phantom 3 battery - both socket cables are connected to "brain" PCB and in Your picture You connected "+" terminal of the battery directly to socket PCB, bypassing the brain. Maybe that's Your problem?
I disabled low battery RTH since Phantom tried to commit suicide when battery got low and I was flying in the middle of the forest. But first alarm (LED flashing) and second alarm (slow descent) activates normally.
Buen video de modificacion bateria,excelente Te felicito. podrias enviarme foto de conexiones? donde van conectados el cable verde y azul? salu2 y gracias
Shouldn't happen if You used original electronics and followed the vid "to the letter". Non original battery error usually means that there's no connection between Phantom and the battery via data pads. Double check if You soldered data cables correctly.
verid1st! Congratulation your work. Well done. In my case I soldered everything according to your video. I double checked the sequence of the cables. They look fine. The battery turns on, but the phantom is still showing 0.0 voltage. The phantom fpv and gimpal working but the phantom motors are not turning on. Does it mean that there is problem with the data ports? I double checked also the dataports with multimeter continuity funciton. It showed o.k. What else shall I do to make it work? Thank you in advance.
Well, I haven't seen such behavior but loose or badly connected data cables would result in "Non-DJI battery" message in the Assistant. 0.0V might mean that some balancer cables are mismatched od disconnected and PCB cannot properly read battery voltage OR You have loose Main Connector - balance cables are enough to provide energy for electronics but they are too thin to support motors. Check "Battery" tab in "Advanced settings" panel in the Assistant if You have correct reading from all the cells.
My battery will not turn on. When I press the button all lights start blinking, but when I loose the button the lights dim. Any idea how this can be solved?
I'm sorry friend but You are not providing enough information. If taken literally, Your description suggest that You are unfamilliar with the manual and possess no kowledge how to handle DJI smart battery. All LED's on after pressing the button are absolutely normal behavior.
@@Verid1st I'm sorry my question was not clear. The led's are only lit as long as the on/off button is pressed. The battery doesn't charge either. So I think the boards are gone. Is it possible to replace them?
@@manfredsmolders9805 And that's exactly what's supposed to happen. If You press button once, battery show it's status and then goes dark. All LED's on indicate that battery is fully charged so there won't be any reaction to the charger.
@@Verid1st But that's the only thing the battery does: it only shows it's status, it's not able to start the phantom. When pressing twice to start, it only shows status, after that nothing happens.
@@manfredsmolders9805 Now we're getting somewhere - so You try to perform proper startup procedure by pressing once and then pressing again and holding the button but battery still shows only status? Well, I haven't got such situation with my batteries but I'd suggest double checking Your wiring, especially the balancer and comm cables (black ribbon). Of course there's still possibility that PCB is somehow fried but before throwing it away I'd definitely check if ALL the cables are securely connected to the PCB and in proper order.
Safest way is to desolder them using high power soldering iron and desoldering wick. Fastest way is to just cut them off with thin wire cutters but You must be very careful. If You short the terminals You'll get fireworks.
@@frostbittencanuck5037 Phantom battery is 3s2p - it means that negative terminal of first cell group is close on the pcb to positive terminal of the second cell group. If Your wire cutters are too wide, You may accidentally short them causing unpleasant effects.
have got mine to the point where I'm ready to cut the batteries from the PCB Did you physically cut that battery connector from the lower PCB .. like cut the pcb ... and the blue wire between the battery connector from the lower board there's a blue wire that connects to the upper board you said you left traces so it would be easy to solder what do you mean by traces Thanks again James Hopkins Calgary Alberta 🇨🇦
@@frostbittencanuck5037 In first conversion yes. I discarded most of lower PCB, including connector and soldered data cables to what's left of it, near main power connector but that's a bit tricky. Later I decided that I don't need to use one PCB with many batteries - instead I just peeled Multistar and put it into original frame. To make things easier, I cut only small passage in lower PCB for the battery cables, leaving data traces and original connector intact. That way battery looks almost like original, no problem with dangling cables and connectors and no problem with connecting data cables to data pads.
Yes. Only difference is in place where You connect external battery. My MOD connects to upper PCB. This one connects to lower PCB. It will also work but limits space inside battery compartment.
Hello I did this mod but you could use a non-original battery of dji I'm just adapting to the drone and doing test to know flight time, I just realized that you lost stability by using the battery in the place where it was coupled lh3.googleusercontent.com/g-bIzgDZlsXHSRSUp0xDd6BW_bS4oGnza9iGmoQQYJHZWLwa2U7YCgkZPHbhNbZ9oLhEOvfpIcUZlnAvfw=w1000 lh3.googleusercontent.com/WZY3zo4kjKY4cWwhCtAB3bl7MVBnPscSG2P-olUbS5YVkWGwcU-PMxm48mGa83wfH8xj4ZW-0f0xTsx3WA=w1000
It seems that You took 3s1p Multistar battery which does not fit inside. By placing it at the back of the landing gear You moved gravity center which in turn has destabilizing effect on the copter. That's why I used 3s2p Multistar battery (same capacity). It's shorter and thicker. And fits perfectly into original battery compartment.
Nice! Thanks for share the vídeo. This is the normal Phantom 2? Or is the vision or plus? I have a normal Phantom 2 with Zenmuse H3-3D and FPV, and I have any problems with the oiriginal batteries and I would like do this. Best regards.
Hi Verid, im new to phantom, have watched your videos over and over but im not so comfortable with small Electrics. Do you have a solution such as MaxAmps which allows dubble extrnal LiPo's? could I mail you somewhere. Regards Paul
Hi Paul, I'm hobbyist, just like You so I do not "have" solution per se. I don't sell anything nor perform paid modifications. Just found a way to connect "normal" battery to Ph2 and shared the knowledge, that's all. Of course it is possible to connect extra LiPo to existing Phantom Lipo - just solder one wire (+) to main connector pad, described as POWER+ and second (-) to the same cable that runs from distribution PCB to main PCB, near the ribbon cable. If You want to switch to email just drop me a PM, no problem.
show de bola meu amigo...qual seria a marca desta nova bateria!!! spectacle du bal mon ami ... quelle serait la marque de cette nouvelle batterie !!! show of the ball my friend ... what would be the brand of this new battery !!!
Not sure what are You asking about. Batteries used for conversion were Multistar 3s2p 5200mAh. Unfortunately, Hobbyking stopped selling these a llittle while ago so You need to search for similarly sized battery on Your own.
Can you tell me the exact measurements of the original phantom battery? If possible send me the measurements of the battery without that front cover ok? thanks in advance
Sorry for late reply: Front side of the battery (without front cover) is 573mm x 368mm. Back side is 483mm x 368mm. Total length (without front cover) is 1245mm
May i have your email...need to ask and show u something about mod M1P battery..it work but accidently i do some mistake. Now the BMS was lock, but i do some jumper and fix it then do another mistake so the error' report comes up, it says about battery failure authentication. And i don't have any smd Flasher tools...hope there's a way to clear the error' message without any software or tools like i did it before with lock BMS (unlock it with simply jumper)... thanks
I'm sorry but I won't be helpful here. I have no knowledge about BMS flashing - neither tools necessary nor software needed. All I did was simple rewiring, that's all. Most of time it works, sometimes it doesn't, as mentioned here by few unfortunate people. Only advice I can give is to double check communication wires. If these are mismatched or poorly connected, Phantom will return authentication error. Other than than that - no idea how to repair such error :(
thank you, i done mod my battery. only wait for my battery multistar arrive. can i charge this battery direct using original dji charger like original battery. how about time to charge it if can using original charger. sory for much asking.
You even SHOULD charge with original DJI charger to teach Your electronics that You connected new battery and You SHOULD do it more than once to get better flight times - check out my second vid which explains it in detail. Charging time is similar to original battery.
1)Go to Google 2)Type "Phantom 2 battery MOD" 3)click "Images" 4)this very video has diagram as thumbnail: i.ytimg.com/vi/rZfpr0Tah6U/hqdefault.jpg Hope this helps
@@Verid1st Cześć, mógłbyś nam pomóc odnośnie twojego 2 filmiku z resetowaniem "Full capacity" baterii u nas to nie działa, wyładowywaliśmy ją parę razy do odcięcia, ładowali oryginalna ładowarką ale pojemność zamiast podskoczyć zmniejsza się a używamy nowych pakietów 5400mAh 2 sprawa to gry wyładujemy 1 pakiet i chcemy podpiąć od razu 2 to jak zresetować boarda żeby to wykrył? Przytrzymanie przycisku nic nie daje.
@@LubieOwnic Niestety, nic więcej poza tym co odpisałem pod tym drugim filmikiem nie jestem w stanie doradzić. Jak już wspomniałem tam, Phantoma już od dłuższego czasu nie mam i nie bardzo mam jak weryfikować cokolwiek. Być może wasza elektronika jest jakaś inna (nowsza może) i dlatego nie reaguje tak jak moja reagowała tj nie daje się "oszukać" rozładowaniem do odcięcia i nie chce się resetować przez przytrzymanie guzika do zamigania czerwonej diody. Wiem że różnice pomiędzy płytkami występują na 100% bo niektórym przerabiającym po przeszczepie płytki nie chciały wstać w ogóle, innym sygnalizowały błędy cel a jeszcze innym kopter wyłączał się zaraz po uruchomieniu tak jakby elektronika Phantoma nie widziała baterii. Wiem że to marna pociecha ale może po prostu trafiliście "oporną" wersję PCB...
Yes, that's possible. But keep in mind that it's only possible if You have separate cells. Multistar batteries ARE NOT compatible as direct drop in. If You pause video at 3:59 You'll notice that Phantom cells have negative terminal at the bottom right side and positive at the upper left side of the distribution board. Multistar are exactly mirror opposite and You can't change that because Multistar cells are welded together, not soldered. You can easily damage the terminals if You try to separate them.
Verid1st Im thinking of getting a different brand like maybe Zippy and match the cell count. 2 parallel cell x3 as i see it in your video but with higher C count than the multistar's 10C, although im not sure if I can unsolder the Zippy one.. Basically my goal is to still be able to charge it with the stock dji charger. Thanks for the answer, I think I'll need to study this battery further.
If You get typical 3s1p battery, You (in most cases) can desolder cells form each other without any problem. Just be extra careful and do not overheat them. Mulitstar I'm using is (exactly as Phantom 2 battery) 3s2p and here cells are welded, not only soldered. Besides Multistar cells are exactly the same in terms of size as Phantom cells. You can literally strip Multistar form heatshrink and fit it directly into original plastic case. BTW - even if You make connection like mine, leaving original balancer and main connector of the Multistar intact, You still can and even should use original DJI charger. Check out my second vid because that's quite important part - how to "teach" the electronics that they have brand new cells installed.
should be this one, 3s1p balancer cable, he used 4 wires for the connector and weld 2 to second main board comm connector www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-3S1P-Balance-Charger-Silicon-Cable-Wire-4-Pin-JST-Adapter-Connector-Plug/401298931497?epid=584466719&hash=item5d6f47bf29:g:qgcAAOSwsW9Y2ps1
Thank you Mr. Igor, I found the connector after the Verid1st suggestion. Isn't a JST connector, instead is a MOLEX PICOBLADE 1.25mm Pitch, 5 Way, 1 Row. This is the connector mounted also on Phantom 4 battery pack. Here you can view the connector: it.farnell.com/molex/53261-0571/header-smt-angolo-retto-1-25mm/dp/1125360?st=Picoblade%205 or it.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5427270/ Thank you very much.
Saw that it was good place for cable next to the battery, but dirty. Should only sell Phantom 2 after a bad purchase at Tradera. Have Karma that is okay with Gopro 7.
Hi congratulations first for the vid , i doing the same job in battery phantom 3 advance , all the leds of battery works fine but they dont have output voltage after ON battery any idea ? ( Suspect battery firmware lost )
I never tried that trick on Phantom 3 (any version) so no - no idea. But I suspect that You might be right with firmware loss. Also remember that Ph3 batteries are 4s not 3s and LiHV, not LiPo
nice and good job. hi did you found any problem with this mod. i would like to try this method. i dont have original battery. i have battery with panel lcd 5400 mah from banggod. can i use this method.
Only "problem" is that I can't change batteries as fast as original ones but that can be avoided if You keep whole plastic battery body, peel Multistar and solder all cables instead using connectors. Otherwise this mod is everything I had hoped for - it's cheapest of my Phantom batteries, gives longest flight time and I can still use it for my other flyers.
Nie zewrzenie tylko zwarcie. Pakiet Phantoma 2 to 3s2p czyli masz szeregowo połączone 3 grupy cel, każda po dwie cele połączone równolegle. W praktyce to oznacza że na dolnej płytce sąsiadujące ze sobą przyłącza są przeciwnego znaku. Jak przez nieuwagę dotkniesz obu przyłącz metalowym przedmiotem (szczękami szczypiec) to zafundujesz sobie niezłe fajerwerki i mało przyjemne poparzenia.
I'll ready to mod my P2 battery. After open it..thats diferent board position in Phantom 2 and Phantom 2 vision battery. The P2 battery more simple coz the intelegency conector separate from balancer board. In P2Vision battery, the intellegency conector onboard with balancer board. So, it can be easier to modify with P2 battery than P2vision battery.. :)
@@Verid1st thanks for the previous answer, can i use syma's 1s battery to assemble 3s with the same capacity for my phantom and will something bad happen?
@@AlumniTAV You can use any 1s battery to assemble 3s battery (or just use 3s battery) as long as You can hold soldering iron properly and chosen battery has right capacity and C rating. Question is - will it fit inside? If not, maybe it's just not worth the work because since You'd have to make some external mount for battery anyway, why not use any other 5200mAh 3s battery with decent C rating?
You must teach the electronics that it has new cells. Watch my second vid - basically You need to charge and then deeply discharge (to complete cut off) the battery using original electronics. No cell-only charging during this process!
Po pierwsze dlatego że chciałem pokazać jak to jest poskładane, na wypadek jakby ktoś chciał zachować całość, przeszczepiając cele. Z resztą sam tak zrobiłem przy kolejnej konwersji bo i tak w sumie używałem tylko pakietów 5200 a każdorazowe układanie kabelków żeby zamknąć pokrywę było ciut upierdliwe. Po drugie, fragment obudowy i tak jest potrzebny bo stanowi mocowanie dla złącza baterii i utrzymuje elektronikę na miejscu i nie chciałem rozwalić "za dużo" tnąc gdzie popadnie.
@@Verid1st Jeszcze jedno pytanie? utopił się Phantom w wodzie, po osuszeniu całości bateria na chwilę obecną działa prawidłowo lecz w dronie kreci się tylko jedno śmigło, dla upewnienia pytam czy do wymiany płyta główna czy może cos innego?
@@piotrlaska1310 Najlepsze rozwiązanie - wywal to w cholerę. Niestety woda jest wredna. Nigdy nie wiesz czy pod którymś czipem nie została i czy ci elektroliza nie podżera jakiejś ścieżki czy nóżki scalaka. Jeżeli jednak nadal chcesz się tym bawić, z pełną świadomością potencjalnych konsekwencji to zacznij od wyprania regulatorów i płytki dystrybucyjnej w izopropanolu. Wcześniej nie podłączaj do baterii i nie testuj bo postępująca elektroliza załatwi ci więcej kłopotów niż być chciał. Jeden działający napęd sugeruje że albo pozdychały regulatory przy pozostałych silnikach albo nie dostają sygnału z kontrolera, względnie zdechł sam kontroler. Jak po umyciu pozostałe nie wstaną to możesz poprzepinać działający zestaw w miejsce niedziałających - jak ruszy to regulatory zdechły. Jak nie ruszy to brak sygnału. Wtedy jeszcze możesz podpiąć te "niedziałające w miejsce tego co działa i zobaczyć czy wstaną. Tylko nie testuj tego z założonymi śmigłami bo możesz sobie kuku zrobić.
Hi, I'm Brazilian, the only video I could find about battery replacement was yours, would you give me an E-mail to talk to? I really need your help because I work with footage and I need the drone .. grateful for the attention and maybe text can be without nexus, I'm using the translator
Leonardo Marques Olá Léo, gostaria de saber se vc conseguiu fazer a modificação nas suas baterias. Estou com o mesmo problema com as baterias do Phantom 2.
That will also work but You might have trouble fitting everything inside. But there's a workaround I did with my other battery. You need to remove original battery wrappings - shrink tube and foam pads and cut a hole in lower PCB for cables. If You do that, whole battery will fit in original chassis.
Im wondering how to "pm" you my friend . So that I can show you a pic through my email and or messenger of what I beleive needs to be done if I am understnading your process Greatly appreciate your time James
Prove it. Time is 1h if You know what are You doing, 2h if You do it first time. Replacement battery = 28-25$ depending which HK warehouse You choose. If You have reliable source of brand new Ph2 batteries below that price, I'm more than glad to hear about it.
Cześć, Czy mógłbym otrzymać od Ciebie dokładniejsze wskazówki w postaci zdjęć na których widać krok po kroku jak dokonałeś przeróbki? mój email: pawel.pisz01@gmail.com z góry Ci dziekuje:)
Po pierwsze - sugeruję nie podawać publicznie swojego adresu email. Spamerzy i inna cholera nie śpią. Po drugie - bardzo mi przykro ale nie mam żadnych fotek. Tylko ten filmik.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
Dziękuję za ten wspaniały film instruktażowy !!!!
Proszę trzymać go na youtube, ponieważ będę potrzebować go, aby przekonwertować 3 moje nieudane baterie !!!
"Jestem po angielsku i używam Google translate, więc proszę o usprawiedliwienie biednej gramatyki: D"
Hi Ryan. I understand English well enough so You do not have to bother with Google Translator :)
Thanks for nice instructions. Very good to learn. Question: Where to get the Li Po battery that fits in? The ones I see are all too long about 135mm. seems I need shorter for my Phanton 2.
There are two kinds of Multistar 5200mAh batteries. Long ones - 3s1p (and those are too long) and short ones - 3s2p and they fit in perfectly. Look in Hobbyking
still no need to try to perform your magic but wanted to thank you for posting the video online and for replying to people questions so persistently, best wishes :)
Thank you, great video. I modified my battery, and I now have a cheap replacement.
Can I ask: What brand battery did you use?
I don't have a circular cutter for cutting the connector off the lower board, is there any other way I could do it safely?
Any hand saw for metal will do. Sharp, thin file is also an option but it'll take a while.
Thanks for the quick reply! Is there not a serious risk of shorting out the battery when cutting the board?
Yes there is! You should first remove old cells (desolder or just cut them off) BEFORE attempting any cuts.
Ok I'll try soldering them off
I just came from my workshop ...and it works! super fantastic, great! looking forward now for my test flight, but first I have to organice the right battery/size. Hot thank's to Verid1st :-)
I'm very happy that it worked out for You. As for the battery - Multistar 3S2P 5200mAh shown in the vid fits perfectly and gives very good flight times. Check out second vid - I did some tests with this Lipo and I'm very happy with it.
Will this mod work without the blue and green wires? I am not sure what they are connected to in your video and I don't see any clear solder points on my cut PCB. Sorry, I don't speak Polish
If You refer to a schematic used as a thumbnail for this vid the answer is no. PCB monitors each cell independently during charge and discharge process so ALL balancer cables must be connected. If You refer to cables I used in the vid, it's double NO. These are communication cables and without those Phantom will not see battery as DJI battery and it will refuse to start. As for the connection, I strongly suggest using original DJI cable to make connetions to balancer cable and communication port. Soldering those thin cables to PCB will be real PITA. EDIT - vid schould have english subtitles, just turn them on.
@@Verid1st Thank you for the quick reply and the advice. I want to solder those two data connection wires to my PCB, I've followed the other steps the same as you had done. How were you able to locate the traces for yours? I don't see anything with my own eyes even under a magnifying glass as to where the traces are in the pcb.
@@CinnTech0451 Those traces are indeed hard to find because of black paint but if You look closely, You'll notice that they are a little bit higher than the rest of the PCB. Alternatively, You can dril tiny holes at the sides of the connection plates, fill them with solder and use them as soldering points. Just avoid drilling in the middle of these contact squares. Contacts inside Phantom are spring loaded but might not like extra layers on contact points.
Thank you for a perfect manual! I have one question, do you charge it with original DJI charger, or do you use a balancer cable and balancer charger? Thank´s in advance!
You can use both as You please. I mostly used original charger because I had to "teach" the electronics that I use brand new cells in order to get longer flight times. Check out part 2 of this vid. I explained the process there.
Many thanks to that video! I have one question - the plate traces which go to two data circles near main charger port, are very thin and go parallel and very close to each other. So, how did you manage to solder it without short circuit, and if I wouldnt do that, can I solder those two wires directly to those two circles?
Thank you once again!
Hi Pawel. PCB traces are indeed quite thin but I'm sure that You'll make it. I just carefully removed paint from one trace, soldered the cable and then removed paint from another trace and soldered second cable but almost 1 cm away from first solder point to avoid short-circuit. You can see it more precisely at 8:57. I wouldn't recommend soldering directly to pads - don't know how contacts inside Phantom would react to that.
Could you please tell me the make and type of battery you are using , is a 3s or 4s , been trying to get the correct battery but every time so far they have been TOO long.
Hi Verid1st, you mention that the PCB might need to be connected to the charger to rectify the boltage difference... Do you do this with the replacement battery pluged in or out?
YES! You see, PCB doesn't know that You replaced the cells and since previous cells gave only a fraction of the nominal capacity, PCB will raise voltage alarm sooner to protect the craft from falling from the sky. Note that PCB monitors Amps that go in and out of the cells, not voltage levels. To use full capacity of Your new battery You need to "teach" PCB that it has brand new cells. To do that You must charge with original charger and then deeply discharge several times Your new battery - check out my second vid, I described that process in detail.
Verid1st thank you!!! I got to fly it for the first time yesterday and I'm so excited!! Thank you for all your help!!
verid1st I have done this same hack. question is do you still use the DJI charger or do you disconnect it and us a balance charger. I believe I would use the DJI smart charger. any answers?
Both. Mainly I use DJI charger as my IMAX is busy with other batteries but in the field where only source of power is my car, DJI charger is pretty useless so I charge everything with IMAX.
Ok I am using my IMAX with all my other batteries. So it is possible to pop the cover off and plug it into the charger, and it will charge normally like with the DJI. Now in the video where you show you having to discharge to 8% and recharge for DJI assist to recognize the full MaH of the battery. Did you use the DJI charger to get the smart chip all "synced" with the battery?
Yes, mostly. In order to "teach" smart chip that it has new, better cells, all charging and deep discharging must be done through the chip so either use original DJI charger or use IMAX in Pb mode (not NiMH as previously stated).
So when charging threw the DJI smart battery port charge with the IMAX w/DJI attachment, it should be in NiMH mode? Any reason for this? Is this due to the smart chip controlling cell balancing during charging, so you basically just need to feed the battery a charge, so no lipo mode, no pb mode, just NiMH will work using the IMAX with a DJI attachment, and the smart chip will detect full charge and stop the IMAX? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. -Brandon
I guess what I'm wondering is, once you have everything hooked up to the DJI battery mod cover. Is that where you charge threw or do you remove the multistar battery from the smart chip mod, and just charge that battery itself on the IMAX. I'm assuming you will always charge threw the DJI port so that it charges threw the chip into the multistar battery. Or does it not even matter, Charge battery by itself with the IMAX in lipo balance mode, or with the stock DJI charger, with battery and mod connected, or the IMAX with the DJI attachment in NiMH mode with the mod connected? This is the only multistar I have so far, and 2 stock batterys. So I was going to just use the mod as my 3rd battery right now so I was just wondering if I should disconnect it to charge or just plug it in to the DJI wall charger. Thanks sorry for these long messages. I know it's not rocket science, I just want to make sure I charge and discharge correctly. Thanks -Brandon
Nice video but on the diagram is 2 cabels yellow and pink (on video blue and green) i cant understsnd where is it soldering on the 2 coppers? On diagram is like one cabel the one copper and the other one to the second copper, but on video i cant see this like diagram. Only the blue cabel is in the near from one of the copper but not on it..and about the green cabel is nothink to see where is it soldering? Have do you any picture of more details?
It's been literally years since I sold my Phantom so unfortunately I will not be able to provide any additional pictures but I'll try to explain it as clearly as I can.
Phantom needs to communicate with the battery electronics, otherwise it will return error and refuse to start. This communication is done via two golden plates near the main battery connector. From there run two thin PCB traces to the multi wire connector and then (via black cables) to the upper board. They are barely visible because of the black paint. Since I removed majority of the lower board, it was necessary to recreate those connections. On the diagram they are represented by pink and yellow and in the video they were made from blue and green wire. I found remnants of the original PCB traces near main connector, scraped black paint and attached the wires there to avoid polluting the golden plates as they are crucial for proper connection. So if You want to recreate this mod in similar way, You need to find those PCB traces, scrape some paint and solder Your cables there. Just remember not to mix those two or communication will fail.
@@Verid1st thank you very much
And which tool did you use to cut off the part of the lower plate, where the batteries were connected?
DREMEL 300 with cutting disc.
Za ile kupiłeś tą baterie multistar ?
Różnie. Jak jeszcze były dostępne to Hobbyking miał je za nieco ponad dwie stówy ale udało mi się też trafić na Alle za jakieś 180PLN z drugiej ręki ale oryginalnie zapakowany. Niestety od dłuższego już czasu HK wycofało się z tych Multistarów i dostanie takiego pakietu graniczy z cudem.
@@Verid1st Nie wiesz czy taki pakiet był by dobry ? allegro.pl/oferta/bateria-li-po-11-1v-3s-5000mah-20c-30c-turnigy-rc-7415995274?
@@Verid1st oraz jaka jest wytrzymałość takiego pakietu ? Ile cykli lub lat przechowywania w odpowiednich warunkach
@@Paczak_ No to po kolei:
-czy będzie dobra? Pod względem pojemności i napięcia jest ok. Kłopot będzie z wymiarem bo te Multistary były idealnie gabarytu oryginalnych cel Phantoma dzięki czemu ładnie mieściły się do komory baterii. Tu podejrzewam że będziesz musiał coś zakombinować z mocowaniem. Przemierz dobrze komorę i porównaj z danymi na aukcji czy ci to wejdzie i ile ewentualnie będzie wystawać.
-ile wytrzyma? Tu niestety nie pomogę. Tego konkretnie pakietu nigdy nie miałem w ręku a niebieskie Turnigy ogólnie jako baterie mają bardzo duży rozstrzał jakości. Możesz trafić rewelacyjną sztukę która odpowiednio traktowana będzie ci służyć póki ci się kopter nie znudzi a możesz trafić bubla który ci spuchnie po kilku lotach.
@@Verid1st Mam też taki problem że mam drona z kamerką gitup2 i podgląd FPV jest a gdy zmieniam na SJ CAM 7 to podglądu nie ma. Nie wiesz może dlaczego tak jest i jak to naprawić ? Jakieś inne piny czy co. Kamerkę podpinam taśmą z gimbala. Gitup2 muszę oddać a podgląd by mi się przydał.
Very impressive, kindly can you tell how to balance charge the phantom 3 battery
Phantom battery has build-in balancer so You don't need to balance it externally. Use original electronics to charge/discharge battery after swap and it should be balanced pretty well.
First, great vid, very well presented. I'm doing the mod now and have a question about the data wires. It looks like the blue wire is soldered to the negative, but I cant tell where to solder the green wire (data wire). Is it soldered on the back of the small square data pad ? Any help would be great.
No, no, no - data cables DO NOT go to negative or to positive. Take a look at this pic: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg (if You can't open it just drop me Your mail and I'll send it directly). Data cables go to their respective data pads. I just left some PCB traces to solder cables on the side of the main connector but they DO NOT connect to the power cables. You may damage Your battery PCB or Phantom if You solder data cables to power output!
Ok, got it , thx for your quick reply,happy flying !!
Excellent, now I will do this mod. Thanks for your valuable information
Thanks for share the video, very good and helpful. Thanks for putting English subtitles on for us ignorant English lol.
Google translation, Dzięki za udział w filmie, bardzo dobry i pomocny. Dzięki za umieszczenie na angielskimi napisami dla nas ignoranta angielskim lol.
Has anyone done something like this with the DJI Spark?
My smart batteries are wearing out and new ones are not available anymore in my country.
Hello!
First of all, I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
So, I followed your instructions step by step, but I have now run into a problem: the drone turns on as usual, but the motors won't start.
Did I do something wrong during the rewiring process?
What else could be going on?
I also connected a charger to the PCB main connector and all four LED's are now lighting up.
Thank you in advance!
Check the Assistant for additional info. I suspect communication problem (swapped data wires or faulty connection. In such case Assistant should display some info like "non-DJI battery" and copter will turn on but won't start the motors.
Not sure what to think about all LEDs on when connected to the charger symptom - never seen anything like that.
Hi, nice mod. How did you charge the battery? with an external source or the original DJI? Estimated flight time? I am eager to try this experiment but I have these doubts.
Original DJI. Check out second part vid - battery electronics must learn that they have brand new cells under control or you'll have same crappy flight times. After several cycles of deep discharge (deep for electronics, not the battery mind you) I got flight times comparable or even slightly better than brand new battery. Problem is that the batteries I used are no longer available/ Not sure how system would react to different capacity or different C batteries.
@@Verid1st Thanks for the information friend. What was the discharge rate C of your battery? I see that you also told another user that it is convenient to put a 3SP2 battery for convenience in size, since a 3SP1 would take up space and would not allow the connection piece to be put in its place. Unfortunately in my country (Argentina) I can't get 3SP2 batteries but it is enough for me to be able to raise my Phantom 2 with Dys 3-axis gimbal, SJcam 5000x and its DJI AVL58 transmission system for FPV, I have read that the battery reading in telemetry is not correct but I think it's a lesser evil as long as you fly high and take beautiful photos and videos wherever you go.
@@leo-nar-do Those MultiStar 5200mAh in 3s2p configuration were rated 12C and had exactly same size as original Ph2 cells. Unfortunately, HK does not sell them anymore. Of course You can use higher C rate but keep in mind that more C also means more grams. 3S 5200mAh 40C will be heavier than 3S 5200mAh 20C.
As for the telemetry, You should "teach" battery electronics that new cells are connected. Battery's PCB monitors not only voltage but also current - how many Amps went out and how many Amps went in during charging. With old cells not many Amps go in so PCB scales bettery precentage and with new cells it will show 0% even if there's plenty of charge remaining. That's why You should do deep discharge few times. To show PCB that it can actually take more Amps from new cells. Voltage monitoring remains the same as it prevents cells from overdischarging.
@@Verid1st Thank you very much friend, really with so much information and experience that you had I can enter with more security to make the modification, I already discovered the connections of each cell and I am hoping to sell a couple of objects that I have in disuse to buy that battery replacement, since here the imported things have a high value but not exorbitant as the value of the original or third-party batteries for the Phantom 2.
Witam. Czy idziesz ładować oryginalną ładowarką po przeróbkie?
Tak. Można a nawet powinno się ładować oryginalną ładowarką po przeróbce. Zobacz drugą część filmu. Elektronika musi się nauczyć że ma nowy pakiet.
Witam. Czy może pam mi powiedzieć czy we wszysykich płytkach baterii Ph2 podłaczenie balansera jest takie samo? Mógłbym wysłać fotkę swojej elektroniki na priw. gdybym tylko miał adres.
Czy we wszystkich - nie wiem, rozebrałem zaledwie jedną, oryginalną, i tu nie spodziewam się odstępstw ale w temacie zamienników już nie byłbym taki pewien. Chińscy producenci substytutów mogą mieć własne wizje na konstrukcję pakietu. W razie czego łatwo to sprawdzić miernikiem - wystarczy odpiąć taśmę od dolnej płytki i zobaczyć który pin łączy z którym polem lutowniczym pakietu.
Zrobiłem tak jak w pana filmie i wszystko działa. Pakiet Multistar 5200 mah. Oryginalna bateria po 30 ładowaniach padła, podczas lotu po 20-30 sekundach od startu spada napięcie poniżej 10,6 v i Phantom automatycznie ląduje mimo to ze jest w pełni naładowana. Zostały jeszcze testy nowego pakietu. Dziękuję.
Cieszę się że się udało. Rzuć jeszcze okiem na drugi filmik z serii - trzeba "przyzwyczaić" elektronikę do pracy z Multistarem bo na początku czasy lotu będą niemal tak samo kiepskie jak z oryginalnymi celami.
Dokładnie tak. Oprogramowanie pokazuje takie same parametry jak na starym pakiecie.
thank you. i follow your instruction and finally i have cheap replacement battery phantom 2.
hi, congratulation. smart and cool. I would like to follow the procedure, but I can't properly see how the two wire from the balancer connector goes to the two leads on front connector pads? I would appreciate have further details.Very best thank to you! you are helping me to keep DJI flying.
Gilson Alves also had some trouble with cables :) Try this link i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg
If You have trouble viewing it just drop me PM with Your email and I'll send it directly to You.
send alanvocal1@yahoo.com.br thank you!
Witam. Man pytanie kupiłem gniazdo z balancerem. Jak się okazało wszystkie kable były odwrotnie niż powinny. Doszło do spiecia po podłączeniu do baterii. Czy mogło to wysadzić jakieś szkody w elektronice.
Skoro napisał Pan "spięcie", mniemam że odwrotnemu połączeniu towarzyszyły efekty audiowizualne - to raczej nigdy nie robi dobrze elektronice. Niestety nie potrafię odpowiedzieć na pytanie co konkretnie mogło paść ani jak to naprawić...
ok dziękuje za odpowiedz. Będę musiał ścignąć gościa który mi sprzedał ten bubel. A miało być tak pięknie.
następnym razem będę uważniejszy. Dzięki za super poradnik :)
Są pewne szanse że nic się nie stało bo zakładając że najpierw polutował Pan poprawnie główne kable zasilające to odwrotne podłączenie złącza balancera spowodowało zwarcie w samej baterii i upieczenie wtyczki balancera (zwarcie plusa i minusa). BTW - Radzę ją dokładnie sprawdzić przed dalszymi zabawami bo niepewny kontakt w tym miejscu może się słabo skończyć w locie. Jeżeli tak się stało to możliwe że obeszło się bez uszkodzeń w samej elektronice baterii jednak zalecam daleko posuniętą ostrożność w użytkowaniu i solidne testy w zasięgu wzroku i na małej wysokości.
Niestety zwarcie spowodowało uszkodzenie elektroniki baterii. Wraz z nową elektroniką udało się wszystko podłączyć jak należy i wszystko działa jak należy. Poradnik bardzo pomocny polecam :)
Hi, thank you for the great video. Can you tell me if this will work with a Phantom 2 Vision battery? I opened mine but it looks a bit different than in your video.
Should work but be careful and take closer look at the original connections - see post below by Thomas Reddin. His battery internals are also a little different and he has problem putting it back together so pay attention how original cells are connected and connect Your battery EXACTLY the same way, especially double check balancer connections as they are crucial for proper battery status reporting and charging process.
Thank you, I have exactly the same problem as Thomas. Hopefully one of us can figure it out soon...
cześć @Verid mam pytanie wiem że bardzo dawno temu nagrywałeś ten poradnik ale może mi odpowiesz bo aktualnie borykam się z problemem przy tej przeróbce a mianowicie takim że zrobiłem ją podłączyłem akumulator i niby wszystko działa w programie dji bateria zgłasza się z pojemnością 4000 sama ma 5200 wiem że można to naprawić "głębokim rozładowaniem robiąc to parę razy" ale choć bateria ma full a w programie pokazuje 99% i 4000mha to dron sam ląduje już po 1 albo 2 lotu dziś nawet przepalił 2 kable od balansera w przerobionej elektronice nie dałem tam wcale takich cienkich kabli może to przez moje nie udolne lutowanie ale dron tak czy tak ląduje sam po 1 lub 2 min lotu masz na to jakiś pomysł co może być nie tak? a i po tym 2 min locie bateria ma 11.9 v a czasem nawet 12 czy to wina baterii ? czy coś popsułem
Nie sądzę żebyś cokolwiek popsuł choć gwarancji nie ma 😉Elektronika baterii pamięta ile ampów wchodzi i ile ampów wychodzi. Napięcie baterii to dla niej rzecz drugorzedna i tu może leżeć twój problem. Tak jak zauważyłeś, trzeba ją "przeszkolić" kilka razy pozornie głębokim rozładowaniem bo inaczej nowe cele będzie traktować jak te stare, dobite. Piszę "pozornie" głębokim bo elektronice będzie się wydawać że w pakiecie już nic nie ma (no bo ampy wyszły) a ty złośliwie będziesz dalej pałował maszynę. Jak masz OSD to sprawa jest banalna - zapinasz pakiet i latasz aż druniu sam nie usiądzie. Jak usiądzie to gada w łapę, tylko tak żeby cię nie pochlastał, odpalasz silniki i w palnik mu choćby nie wiem jak protestował. Na OSD monitorujesz napięcie i pałujesz sprzęta tak długo aż nie sięgniesz 9V na pakiecie co ci daje 3V na celę czyli jeszcze bezpiecznie. Wyłączasz, dajesz ostygnąć po czym ładujesz PRZEZ elektronikę baterii. Wtedy elektronika wykmini że w pakiet weszło wincyj ampów jak ostatnim razem. Powtórz ten manewr tak ze trzy razy to powinieneś mieć widoczną poprawę. Co do kabli balancera - polutuj BARDZO PORZĄDNIE. Ich rozłączenie w trakcie lotu to sygnał dla drunia że ma krytyczną awarię i na mur beton się zbiesi. Nie chcesz tego.
@@Verid1st okej ma to sens ale sensu dla mnie nie ma że czasem choć bateria niby spałowana a dron ląduje to za chwilę magicznie pojawiają się 3 kreski naładowania i to mnie trochę dziwi tak czy tak kupiłem 2 pakiet lipo więc czkam na niego i mam nadzieje że na nim elektronika w końcu się wyuczy że ma full a nie 3900 mha
@@kubsio4471 Trzymam kciuki za powodzenie i wszystkiego dobrego w Nowym Roku ;-)
@@Verid1st tobie również a i jeszcze jedno pytanie ma to znaczenie że mam baterie 3s ale nie 2p i max obciążenie 40c a 2 tak samo 3s nie 2p 50c max ?
@@Verid1st a i rozumiem że jeśli rozładowałem aku tak że miga ostatnia kreska a w programie dostępne mha jest 0 i naładowanie 0 to starczy żeby nauczyć elektronikę
Hi, can you show me how to connect cables to the balancer. I'm doing something wrong. Batteries in phantom illuminates, but the propellers not turning. Please help.
Try this link i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg If You cannot access this page, drop me PM with Your email. I'll send the schematics directly to You.
Thank you. All work fine.
Cześć.
Wykonałem przeróbkę i wszystko działa, tylko po rozładowaniu do 3.4V na celę (0% na osd) i po ładowaniu dalej mam 3300mAh pojemności. Co robić? Pozdrawiam!
Obejrzeć drugą część dotyczącą "przyuczania" elektroniki do nowego pakietu :)
W skrócie - elektronika pamięta że ma badziewne cele. Trzeba ją przekonać że jest inaczej. Zero na OSD oznacza że wysiorbałeś z pakietu tyle ile elektronika pamięta że może oddać. Trzymając kopter w łapie męcz go gazem aż nie osiągniesz 3,0V na celę. Potem naładuj ale koniecznie przez elektronikę, np. oryginalną ładowarką. Powtórz jeszcze ze 2-3 razy. Po każdym cyklu "procenty" powinny zachowywać się coraz lepiej i powinieneś obserwować wzrost dostępnych mAh w asystencie.
Hej, odgrzewam kotleta, bo wyciągnąłem ph z piwnicy ale bateria jest padnięta. Orientujesz się jakie inne pakiety będą pasowały bo tych co Ty zastosowałeś już nie ma.
Niestety, Mydelnicy już nie mam od dłuższego czasu więc i dostępności pakietów nie śledziłem.
Verid1st wymiarami powinna pasować. Jak myślisz? hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-lihv-high-capacity-5200mah-3s2p-12c-multi-rotor-lipo-pack-xt60.html?queryID=5b18bf0082147f9ffb54b38ce8315ad9&objectID=78442&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products&___store=en_us
@@xrebelOLN Ta jest ciut większa i nie jest LiPo. Nie jestem pewien czy oryginalna elektronika dobrze zniesie podwyższone napięcie w sensie odczytów i związanych z tym alarmów. Na pewno nie doładuje LiHV jak powinna bo nie umie czyli cały proces nauki opisany w drugim wideo może wziąć w łeb. Ponadto może odczytać podwyższone napięcie LiHV jako przeładowanie czyli uszkodzenie i zablokuje się na amen. Oczywiście to dywagacja ale nie ryzykowałbym. Myślę że lepiej dorobić boczne koszyczki i użyć dwóch spiętych LiPo 2,6mAh albo przerobić komorę baterii pod pakiet innego kształtu niż kombinować z LiHV.
thank you good job
Very good Job. thumb up. Thanks
if i remove the cells, the bms will not lock ?
Thanks, very useful!
Véry good job 👍
Thank you for sharing 😊
How does the wire connection date that is near the positvo pole and negative?
Not sure what do You need - sorry. Please rephrase the question...
I'm doing this adaptation in my phantom 2 and I was able to connect the cells and make the battery board connect but next to the positive and negative power plug has other small plugs I want to know which is the positive and the negative of this small plug that stays in the phantom Because on the plate of the battery I have already identified through a photo that I found in google (if you see any errors in the digits, I apologize because I am from Brazil and I am using google translator rsrs).
Oh, You mean those small gold plates above main battery connector? That's data connector, not positive/negative. Try this pic: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg It must be connected as shown otherwise Phantom won't fly and display "Non original battery" message in the Assistant.
In my case It doesn't work.. I've only one flashing led even thought the lipo is full. It worked only once after charging the lipo . The drone started and it rapidly passed over 3-2-1 lamp flashing. I've retried to charge the lipo by the djy power supply but it was useless...very frustrating after so amount of work..
Did You try to cycle the battery several times with deep discharge each time like I did in second vid? My first flight time was....disappointing, considering that I was using brand new battery. But after several cycles of charge/deep discharge electronics adjusted to the new battery, giving very nice flight times. Remember that to do this You need to charge with DJI charger (or substitute) and discharge until Phantom shuts itself off.
A jak ładujesz tak przerobiony akumulator orginalna ładowarka przez złącze czy jakaś inna?
Oryginalną bo musisz nauczyć elektronikę że ma nowy pakiet do dyspozycji. Na kanale jest drugi filmik który traktuje o tym szerzej.
@@Verid1st tą moją baterie trochę podladowalem i włączyłem drona ma 19 cykli ładowania. Ale dalej jeszcze nie wykrywa ładowarka . Dwie cele mają 3.7v a jedna 3.1v ile czasu ładować ładowarka od laptopa aby orginalna ładowarka znalazła akumulator?
@@prokoxgrinder2053 Szczerze nie miałem takiej sytuacji. Oryginalna ładowarka powinna widzieć bez problemu pakiet który ma 3.0V na celę. Niżej nigdy nie schodziłem ale to i tak mniej niż ty masz teraz. Być może nie podoba jej się tak drastyczna różnica między celami. #,7 a 3,1 to przepaść. Sprawdź też połączenia pomiędzy celami a elektroniką czy któreś nie siadło. BTW - jak chcesz ładować pakiet osobno, nie przez ładowarkę Phantoma to kup sobie ładowarkę modelarską, jakiegoś Imax'a czy coś. Zabawa z ładowarką do laptopa to proszenie się o zjaranie chałupy. Lipole modelarskie potrafią być cholernie wredne pod tym względem. Nie pytaj skąd wiem.
@@Verid1st a teraz bateria ma 8.3v i może dlatego jej elektronika nie widzi.
@@prokoxgrinder2053 No to może być powód. 8.4V dla pakietu 3S oznacz że któraś cela jest ubita a elektronika tego nie lubi
Hi, how is the balancer scheme when you plug in to the extensor from the board to the battery? Nice video, mate!
And can you charge with the original dji charger?
Not sure what are You asking about, please clarify...
As for the DJI charger - yes, You can use it. Original battery circuit doesn't know that it is charging substitute battery instead of original cells and it will charge (and balance properly) substitute battery all the same.
Verid1st wich wire, for the balancer extensor must be linked with? I have an idea from when you showed wich ones are the positive and negative, but not so sure about the other two that are for communication. thx in advance!
I hope this will help:
i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg
onde I tried to view the pic, the page is unavailable
Can you please provide a wiring diagram for the smaller 4 point lead to the battery?
Hi Thomas, try this link: i67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg If You have trouble viewing this image, just drop me Your email via PM and I'll send it to You directly.
Hey, cheers for the prompt reply. I think my board is different to yours, maybe a newer/older version of the battery. I can't get it to work, the battery is powering the Phantom as soon as I plug it in.
ibb.co/fnd3Um This is what I have right now. I can "power" the board on/off (the lights) but there is always power coming out of the socket that the phantom connects to. Love any help you can give me.
It looks more like Phantom 3 battery board (separate PCB's for "brain" and for socket). I haven't met such board before in Ph2 battery so I'm afraid I won't be much help but You sure You got all connections right? There's big solderpoint below B030Z55 chip. Shouldn't be something connected there? Take a look at my video about Phantom 3 battery - both socket cables are connected to "brain" PCB and in Your picture You connected "+" terminal of the battery directly to socket PCB, bypassing the brain. Maybe that's Your problem?
When I wire it similar to your P3 video I just get the red button light after powering on (on the battery).
I am gonna try to restore my brand new dead batteries I have and if not i will follow your video Thank you great job! :)
Witam! Po tej przeróbce można dalej używać oryginalnej ładowarki do Dji Phantom? :-)
Nawet powinno się - przynajmniej na początku - patrz drugie wideo z testami. Musisz "przyzwyczaić" elektronikę do nowych cel.
We can charge the external lipo battery in the phantom 2 charger??
You even should. Watch second part of the video to better understand battery's learning process.
After discharging I've always only 1 led on and I don't manage starting the recharging
nice mode how about low battery. did it trigger return to home like original battery.
I disabled low battery RTH since Phantom tried to commit suicide when battery got low and I was flying in the middle of the forest. But first alarm (LED flashing) and second alarm (slow descent) activates normally.
Buen video de modificacion bateria,excelente Te felicito.
podrias enviarme foto de conexiones?
donde van conectados el cable verde y azul?
salu2 y gracias
Can you tell what’s the name off the balance connector mine is burned
It's standard JST XH connector for 3S battery.
Great usefull video!
Is the batteryof phantom 2 the same as the battery of phantom 3?
AFAIK they are not the same.
Hello, I made the modification, it was perfect. But the Phantom is making a mistake. Saying that the battery is not original. Any solution?
Shouldn't happen if You used original electronics and followed the vid "to the letter". Non original battery error usually means that there's no connection between Phantom and the battery via data pads. Double check if You soldered data cables correctly.
verid1st! Congratulation your work. Well done.
In my case I soldered everything according to your video. I double checked the sequence of the cables. They look fine. The battery turns on, but the phantom is still showing 0.0 voltage. The phantom fpv and gimpal working but the phantom motors are not turning on. Does it mean that there is problem with the data ports? I double checked also the dataports with multimeter continuity funciton. It showed o.k. What else shall I do to make it work? Thank you in advance.
Well, I haven't seen such behavior but loose or badly connected data cables would result in "Non-DJI battery" message in the Assistant. 0.0V might mean that some balancer cables are mismatched od disconnected and PCB cannot properly read battery voltage OR You have loose Main Connector - balance cables are enough to provide energy for electronics but they are too thin to support motors. Check "Battery" tab in "Advanced settings" panel in the Assistant if You have correct reading from all the cells.
My battery will not turn on. When I press the button all lights start blinking, but when I loose the button the lights dim. Any idea how this can be solved?
I'm sorry friend but You are not providing enough information. If taken literally, Your description suggest that You are unfamilliar with the manual and possess no kowledge how to handle DJI smart battery. All LED's on after pressing the button are absolutely normal behavior.
@@Verid1st I'm sorry my question was not clear. The led's are only lit as long as the on/off button is pressed. The battery doesn't charge either. So I think the boards are gone. Is it possible to replace them?
@@manfredsmolders9805 And that's exactly what's supposed to happen. If You press button once, battery show it's status and then goes dark. All LED's on indicate that battery is fully charged so there won't be any reaction to the charger.
@@Verid1st But that's the only thing the battery does: it only shows it's status, it's not able to start the phantom. When pressing twice to start, it only shows status, after that nothing happens.
@@manfredsmolders9805 Now we're getting somewhere - so You try to perform proper startup procedure by pressing once and then pressing again and holding the button but battery still shows only status? Well, I haven't got such situation with my batteries but I'd suggest double checking Your wiring, especially the balancer and comm cables (black ribbon). Of course there's still possibility that PCB is somehow fried but before throwing it away I'd definitely check if ALL the cables are securely connected to the PCB and in proper order.
What is the best way to separate the dji battery cells from the PCB ?
Safest way is to desolder them using high power soldering iron and desoldering wick.
Fastest way is to just cut them off with thin wire cutters but You must be very careful. If You short the terminals You'll get fireworks.
@@Verid1st how would I short a terminal?
@@frostbittencanuck5037 Phantom battery is 3s2p - it means that negative terminal of first cell group is close on the pcb to positive terminal of the second cell group. If Your wire cutters are too wide, You may accidentally short them causing unpleasant effects.
have got mine to the point where I'm ready to cut the batteries from the PCB
Did you physically cut that battery connector from the lower PCB .. like cut the pcb ... and the blue wire between the battery connector from the lower board there's a blue wire that connects to the upper board you said you left traces so it would be easy to solder what do you mean by traces
Thanks again
James Hopkins
Calgary Alberta
🇨🇦
@@frostbittencanuck5037 In first conversion yes. I discarded most of lower PCB, including connector and soldered data cables to what's left of it, near main power connector but that's a bit tricky. Later I decided that I don't need to use one PCB with many batteries - instead I just peeled Multistar and put it into original frame. To make things easier, I cut only small passage in lower PCB for the battery cables, leaving data traces and original connector intact. That way battery looks almost like original, no problem with dangling cables and connectors and no problem with connecting data cables to data pads.
Hello,
I'm trying to make this mod,
But the link to the tutorial is without images
Anyone have the schematic to be able to solder the wires?
thank you
Drop me PW with Your mail and I'll send it to You
Hello
Does this mod work the same as the video?
www.flickr.com/photos/svenjtd/29500738383/in/photostream/
Yes. Only difference is in place where You connect external battery. My
MOD connects to upper PCB. This one connects to lower PCB. It will also
work but limits space inside battery compartment.
Hello
I did this mod
but you could use a non-original battery of dji
I'm just adapting to the drone
and doing test to know flight time,
I just realized that you lost stability by using the battery in the place where it was coupled
lh3.googleusercontent.com/g-bIzgDZlsXHSRSUp0xDd6BW_bS4oGnza9iGmoQQYJHZWLwa2U7YCgkZPHbhNbZ9oLhEOvfpIcUZlnAvfw=w1000
lh3.googleusercontent.com/WZY3zo4kjKY4cWwhCtAB3bl7MVBnPscSG2P-olUbS5YVkWGwcU-PMxm48mGa83wfH8xj4ZW-0f0xTsx3WA=w1000
It seems that You took 3s1p Multistar battery which does not fit inside. By placing it at the back of the landing gear You moved gravity center which in turn has destabilizing effect on the copter. That's why I used 3s2p Multistar battery (same capacity). It's shorter and thicker. And fits perfectly into original battery compartment.
Nice! Thanks for share the vídeo.
This is the normal Phantom 2? Or is the vision or plus?
I have a normal Phantom 2 with Zenmuse H3-3D and FPV, and I have any problems with the oiriginal batteries and I would like do this.
Best regards.
"Normal" Phantom with same gimbal as Yours.
this is battery version 1.0 or 2.0?
Sorry. Don't know answer to that question.
Hi Verid, im new to phantom, have watched your videos over and over but im not so comfortable with small Electrics. Do you have a solution such as MaxAmps which allows dubble extrnal LiPo's? could I mail you somewhere. Regards Paul
Hi Paul, I'm hobbyist, just like You so I do not "have" solution per se. I don't sell anything nor perform paid modifications. Just found a way to connect "normal" battery to Ph2 and shared the knowledge, that's all. Of course it is possible to connect extra LiPo to existing Phantom Lipo - just solder one wire (+) to main connector pad, described as POWER+ and second (-) to the same cable that runs from distribution PCB to main PCB, near the ribbon cable. If You want to switch to email just drop me a PM, no problem.
Hi there, thanks for the quick reply,
show de bola meu amigo...qual seria a marca desta nova bateria!!!
spectacle du bal mon ami ... quelle serait la marque de cette nouvelle batterie !!!
show of the ball my friend ... what would be the brand of this new battery !!!
Not sure what are You asking about. Batteries used for conversion were Multistar 3s2p 5200mAh. Unfortunately, Hobbyking stopped selling these a llittle while ago so You need to search for similarly sized battery on Your own.
thank you!! bravo!!
Can you tell me the exact measurements of the original phantom battery? If possible send me the measurements of the battery without that front cover ok? thanks in advance
Sorry for late reply: Front side of the battery (without front cover) is 573mm x 368mm. Back side is 483mm x 368mm. Total length (without front cover) is 1245mm
Hi Can you help with dji ronin 1 battery mod?
Never seen RONIN stabiliser up close so I dont think I'll be of any help. Sorry. My best bet is to get broken RONIN battery and dismantle it carefully
First class mod! Thank you.
nice mod! how about the flight time? how long can you fly with these batteries?
Got 14-15 minutes 'till first Battery Alarm. Check out part.2 vid...
May i have your email...need to ask and show u something about mod M1P battery..it work but accidently i do some mistake. Now the BMS was lock, but i do some jumper and fix it then do another mistake so the error' report comes up, it says about battery failure authentication. And i don't have any smd Flasher tools...hope there's a way to clear the error' message without any software or tools like i did it before with lock BMS (unlock it with simply jumper)... thanks
I'm sorry but I won't be helpful here. I have no knowledge about BMS flashing - neither tools necessary nor software needed. All I did was simple rewiring, that's all. Most of time it works, sometimes it doesn't, as mentioned here by few unfortunate people. Only advice I can give is to double check communication wires. If these are mismatched or poorly connected, Phantom will return authentication error. Other than than that - no idea how to repair such error :(
thank you, i done mod my battery. only wait for my battery multistar arrive. can i charge this battery direct using original dji charger like original battery. how about time to charge it if can using original charger. sory for much asking.
You even SHOULD charge with original DJI charger to teach Your electronics that You connected new battery and You SHOULD do it more than once to get better flight times - check out my second vid which explains it in detail. Charging time is similar to original battery.
thank you for your help and guide. good tutorial and advise.
aryeff ishak
finally i have cheap replacement battery. thank you for your tutorial
Thank you, great video!
Can i use this mod with phantom 2v+?
AFAIK Phantom 2 and Phantom 2 Vision/Vision+ use exactly same battery so You should be able to use this MOD with Your Phantom no problem.
Thanks, I'll watch the video a few times and then I'll try the mod!
Hi,
What multistar lipo did you use for this mod?
maybe this:
hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-lihv-high-capacity-5200mah-3s-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html
Phantom 2 uses standard LiPo packs, NOT LiHV ones. I picked hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-3s-5200mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack-1.html
i did the mod and it works well!Many thanks !
I cant understand how is soldering..have anyone diagram? Mabe pictures?
1)Go to Google
2)Type "Phantom 2 battery MOD"
3)click "Images"
4)this very video has diagram as thumbnail: i.ytimg.com/vi/rZfpr0Tah6U/hqdefault.jpg
Hope this helps
@@Verid1st Cześć, mógłbyś nam pomóc odnośnie twojego 2 filmiku z resetowaniem "Full capacity" baterii u nas to nie działa, wyładowywaliśmy ją parę razy do odcięcia, ładowali oryginalna ładowarką ale pojemność zamiast podskoczyć zmniejsza się a używamy nowych pakietów 5400mAh
2 sprawa to gry wyładujemy 1 pakiet i chcemy podpiąć od razu 2 to jak zresetować boarda żeby to wykrył? Przytrzymanie przycisku nic nie daje.
@@LubieOwnic Niestety, nic więcej poza tym co odpisałem pod tym drugim filmikiem nie jestem w stanie doradzić. Jak już wspomniałem tam, Phantoma już od dłuższego czasu nie mam i nie bardzo mam jak weryfikować cokolwiek. Być może wasza elektronika jest jakaś inna (nowsza może) i dlatego nie reaguje tak jak moja reagowała tj nie daje się "oszukać" rozładowaniem do odcięcia i nie chce się resetować przez przytrzymanie guzika do zamigania czerwonej diody. Wiem że różnice pomiędzy płytkami występują na 100% bo niektórym przerabiającym po przeszczepie płytki nie chciały wstać w ogóle, innym sygnalizowały błędy cel a jeszcze innym kopter wyłączał się zaraz po uruchomieniu tak jakby elektronika Phantoma nie widziała baterii. Wiem że to marna pociecha ale może po prostu trafiliście "oporną" wersję PCB...
Hi, can you just desolder the old cells and solder in a new one?
Yes, that's possible. But keep in mind that it's only possible if You have separate cells. Multistar batteries ARE NOT compatible as direct drop in. If You pause video at 3:59 You'll notice that Phantom cells have negative terminal at the bottom right side and positive at the upper left side of the distribution board. Multistar are exactly mirror opposite and You can't change that because Multistar cells are welded together, not soldered. You can easily damage the terminals if You try to separate them.
Verid1st Im thinking of getting a different brand like maybe Zippy and match the cell count. 2 parallel cell x3 as i see it in your video but with higher C count than the multistar's 10C, although im not sure if I can unsolder the Zippy one.. Basically my goal is to still be able to charge it with the stock dji charger. Thanks for the answer, I think I'll need to study this battery further.
If You get typical 3s1p battery, You (in most cases) can desolder cells form each other without any problem. Just be extra careful and do not overheat them. Mulitstar I'm using is (exactly as Phantom 2 battery) 3s2p and here cells are welded, not only soldered. Besides Multistar cells are exactly the same in terms of size as Phantom cells. You can literally strip Multistar form heatshrink and fit it directly into original plastic case.
BTW - even if You make connection like mine, leaving original balancer and main connector of the Multistar intact, You still can and even should use original DJI charger. Check out my second vid because that's quite important part - how to "teach" the electronics that they have brand new cells installed.
Oh Ive seen it but i guess i missed that part. Im gonna have a second look at you video. thank for all help! keep it up bro!
Where do I find this card to buy?
What card?
hello do you know the name of the connector with the red dot on showed at this minutes in the video? th-cam.com/video/rZfpr0Tah6U/w-d-xo.html
Nope. Sorry. But You might want to look for Molex Picoblade 6 pin 1,25mm. They look very similar...
should be this one, 3s1p balancer cable, he used 4 wires for the connector and weld 2 to second main board comm connector
www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-3S1P-Balance-Charger-Silicon-Cable-Wire-4-Pin-JST-Adapter-Connector-Plug/401298931497?epid=584466719&hash=item5d6f47bf29:g:qgcAAOSwsW9Y2ps1
Thank you Mr. Igor, I found the connector after the Verid1st suggestion. Isn't a JST connector, instead is a MOLEX PICOBLADE 1.25mm Pitch, 5 Way, 1 Row. This is the connector mounted also on Phantom 4 battery pack.
Here you can view the connector:
it.farnell.com/molex/53261-0571/header-smt-angolo-retto-1-25mm/dp/1125360?st=Picoblade%205
or
it.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5427270/
Thank you very much.
Why the cablee outside ??
Because XT60 was too big to comfortably fit inside
Saw that it was good place for cable next to the battery, but dirty. Should only sell Phantom 2 after a bad purchase at Tradera. Have Karma that is okay with Gopro 7.
Boa noite, onde você comprou essa bateria, e quanto é o tempo de vôo
Multistar batteries are mainly sold by Hobbyking and last time I checked these 5200mah 3S2P were sold for 40$
Hi congratulations first for the vid , i doing the same job in battery phantom 3 advance , all the leds of battery works fine but they dont have output voltage after ON battery any idea ? ( Suspect battery firmware lost )
I never tried that trick on Phantom 3 (any version) so no - no idea. But I suspect that You might be right with firmware loss. Also remember that Ph3 batteries are 4s not 3s and LiHV, not LiPo
@@Verid1st thanks for informations
nice and good job. hi did you found any problem with this mod. i would like to try this method. i dont have original battery. i have battery with panel lcd 5400 mah from banggod. can i use this method.
one more percentage life battery will rise to 100 back or will stay with original percentage.
Only "problem" is that I can't change batteries as fast as original ones but that can be avoided if You keep whole plastic battery body, peel Multistar and solder all cables instead using connectors. Otherwise this mod is everything I had hoped for - it's cheapest of my Phantom batteries, gives longest flight time and I can still use it for my other flyers.
Jak odloczyles cele?
Możesz albo lutownicą dużej mocy plus plecionka do odciągania cyny albo poprostu odciąć małymi wąskimi cążkami uważając żeby nie zewrzeć cel.
Verid1st co to jest zewrzenie?
Nie zewrzenie tylko zwarcie. Pakiet Phantoma 2 to 3s2p czyli masz szeregowo połączone 3 grupy cel, każda po dwie cele połączone równolegle. W praktyce to oznacza że na dolnej płytce sąsiadujące ze sobą przyłącza są przeciwnego znaku. Jak przez nieuwagę dotkniesz obu przyłącz metalowym przedmiotem (szczękami szczypiec) to zafundujesz sobie niezłe fajerwerki i mało przyjemne poparzenia.
Verid1st czyli tak jakby nie moge dotknąć plusa do minusa tak?
Zdecydowanie nie polecam...
Thank you
Can i do with phantom 3 ?
Propably yes but I've never tried this. Keep in mind that Ph3 uses LiHV, not LiPo batteries so You want to be very careful when choosing substitute.
Verid1st thx , honestly i think i need to buy the original one , cuz lipo battery with 5400 mah 4s its half price with original phantom 3 battery.
OBS: sem a placa PCB, não funciona
I'll ready to mod my P2 battery. After open it..thats diferent board position in Phantom 2 and Phantom 2 vision battery. The P2 battery more simple coz the intelegency conector separate from balancer board. In P2Vision battery, the intellegency conector onboard with balancer board. So, it can be easier to modify with P2 battery than P2vision battery.. :)
do you still have yours? I'll buy them from you!
Nope, sold it about a year (or more) ago.
5200 Mah 3s (c)?
MULTISTAR 5200mAh, 10C 3S2P (!!!)
3S1P will not fit inside as it is longer.
@@Verid1st thanks for the previous answer, can i use syma's 1s battery to assemble 3s with the same capacity for my phantom and will something bad happen?
@@AlumniTAV You can use any 1s battery to assemble 3s battery (or just use 3s battery) as long as You can hold soldering iron properly and chosen battery has right capacity and C rating. Question is - will it fit inside? If not, maybe it's just not worth the work because since You'd have to make some external mount for battery anyway, why not use any other 5200mAh 3s battery with decent C rating?
@@Verid1st what if I use a 3.7v 1200mah 25c battery as much as 3 pieces with the same specifications and is it possible?
@@Verid1st it seems I am quite good at soldering techniques
How to reset battery Capacity?
You must teach the electronics that it has new cells. Watch my second vid - basically You need to charge and then deeply discharge (to complete cut off) the battery using original electronics. No cell-only charging during this process!
Zastanawiam się dlaczego bawiłeś się w rozcinanie obudowy narażając się a w ogóle jej nie wykorzystałeś?? Nie lepiej odciąć ją byle czym i wyrzucić.
Po pierwsze dlatego że chciałem pokazać jak to jest poskładane, na wypadek jakby ktoś chciał zachować całość, przeszczepiając cele. Z resztą sam tak zrobiłem przy kolejnej konwersji bo i tak w sumie używałem tylko pakietów 5200 a każdorazowe układanie kabelków żeby zamknąć pokrywę było ciut upierdliwe.
Po drugie, fragment obudowy i tak jest potrzebny bo stanowi mocowanie dla złącza baterii i utrzymuje elektronikę na miejscu i nie chciałem rozwalić "za dużo" tnąc gdzie popadnie.
@@Verid1st Jeszcze jedno pytanie? utopił się Phantom w wodzie, po osuszeniu całości bateria na chwilę obecną działa prawidłowo lecz w dronie kreci się tylko jedno śmigło, dla upewnienia pytam czy do wymiany płyta główna czy może cos innego?
@@piotrlaska1310 Najlepsze rozwiązanie - wywal to w cholerę. Niestety woda jest wredna. Nigdy nie wiesz czy pod którymś czipem nie została i czy ci elektroliza nie podżera jakiejś ścieżki czy nóżki scalaka. Jeżeli jednak nadal chcesz się tym bawić, z pełną świadomością potencjalnych konsekwencji to zacznij od wyprania regulatorów i płytki dystrybucyjnej w izopropanolu. Wcześniej nie podłączaj do baterii i nie testuj bo postępująca elektroliza załatwi ci więcej kłopotów niż być chciał. Jeden działający napęd sugeruje że albo pozdychały regulatory przy pozostałych silnikach albo nie dostają sygnału z kontrolera, względnie zdechł sam kontroler. Jak po umyciu pozostałe nie wstaną to możesz poprzepinać działający zestaw w miejsce niedziałających - jak ruszy to regulatory zdechły. Jak nie ruszy to brak sygnału. Wtedy jeszcze możesz podpiąć te "niedziałające w miejsce tego co działa i zobaczyć czy wstaną. Tylko nie testuj tego z założonymi śmigłami bo możesz sobie kuku zrobić.
salve posso sapere se dei contatti piccoli della batteria se esce corrente e se quanto volt
Hello multi star seller link ?
Pack Size: 142 x 49 x 22mm 🙄 multistar battery ?
Hobbyking.com Remember that You want 3s2p battery, not 3s1p because 3s1p are too long.
can you sell this battery to me.
I have only one set of converted electronics and I'm still using it - sorry. But I'm sure that You'll be able to make one by Yourself.
Hi, I'm Brazilian, the only video I could find about battery replacement was yours, would you give me an E-mail to talk to? I really need your help because I work with footage and I need the drone .. grateful for the attention and maybe text can be without nexus, I'm using the translator
Sure, just drop me PM with Your email and I'll write back.
Verid1st Cool, "pipocolino@gmail.com" my name is Léo
Pipocolino.lm@gmail.com *
Hi Verid1st. Great video. Can you email me the balancer scheme cables. I am unable to find fxaix.jpg.Many thanks jetspiruba@gmail.com
Leonardo Marques Olá Léo, gostaria de saber se vc conseguiu fazer a modificação nas suas baterias. Estou com o mesmo problema com as baterias do Phantom 2.
I try more simple without changing the first board. Use that board for balancer cable, power + and - from behind...so simple than this... :)
That will also work but You might have trouble fitting everything inside. But there's a workaround I did with my other battery. You need to remove original battery wrappings - shrink tube and foam pads and cut a hole in lower PCB for cables. If You do that, whole battery will fit in original chassis.
Yups..ur right for multistar lipo...too longer with my way..so, i use XK 380 battery and Walkera QR350..more short than multistar... :)
The drone will not shut down randomly in the air
Never happened to me.
С какого дрона и какая ёмкость аккумулятора?
1)English please
2)It was generic battery. Not from any specific drone.
3)Capacity was exactly the same as original Ph2 battery. 5200mAh
Im wondering how to "pm" you my friend . So that I can show you a pic through my email and or messenger of what I beleive needs to be done if I am understnading your process
Greatly appreciate your time
James
No problem - we can switch to email or any other communication method of Your choice.
watch out phantom 2 battery can only hold about 100 full recharge and discharge after that drone won't start there will be solid red light !
si puo avere una foto dei collegamenti grazie
Wiring can be found here: oi67.tinypic.com/29fxaix.jpg If You can't open link, just drop me PM with Your mail and I'll send it directly to You.
grazie
Phantom 2 batarya ihtiyacım var bilginiz olsun
c est du gros bidon , ca ne fonctionne pas cela dépend de la version de la batterie et encore.. Je déconseille
It would be cheaper to buy a battery from Ebay or Amazon, the time and replacement battery cost of doing it this way is not practical.
Prove it. Time is 1h if You know what are You doing, 2h if You do it first time. Replacement battery = 28-25$ depending which HK warehouse You choose. If You have reliable source of brand new Ph2 batteries below that price, I'm more than glad to hear about it.
Cześć,
Czy mógłbym otrzymać od Ciebie dokładniejsze wskazówki w postaci zdjęć na których widać krok po kroku jak dokonałeś przeróbki? mój email: pawel.pisz01@gmail.com
z góry Ci dziekuje:)
Po pierwsze - sugeruję nie podawać publicznie swojego adresu email. Spamerzy i inna cholera nie śpią.
Po drugie - bardzo mi przykro ale nie mam żadnych fotek. Tylko ten filmik.
English please
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