I fixed my mother's 1924, factory, singer sewing machine tensioner after 4 attempts by others. What you called the "check spring " was resting at 10 o'clock . I cleaned everything and re - positioned that spring to 12 o'clock which gave the check spring more tension . I went one step further than your video and removed the barrel thing that houses the "check spring ". A set screw was holding the barrel in place. This allowed me to re- position it to 12 o'clock position. The stitch was good on the top and loose on the bottom . Now it's working as designed! We have a very happy 82 year old seamstress !
Thanks for sharing! I attempted removing these components on my new machine and they seem to be overtightened via the end nut. Any advice on how to break that bond without stripping threads or using wrong tool on threaded parts? I used PB but it is still stuck.
Are you referring to the thumb nut that adjusts the tension? You may not be able to turn it by hand. You will need a couple strips of scrap leather to pad the jaws of channel lock pliers to prevent damage to the knurling and get the nut started turning, then use fingers to finish screwing it off. Use a wire brush and clean the threads after you get it apart.
@@okbridges thank you! I padded the nut with thin fabric and then attempted turning the bolt with a screw driver and small pliers, but failed at loosening the tensioner assembly . I'll go for the leather technique. All of my parts on the tensioning bolt seem compressed and I cannot determine what level of tension the machine is on with the parts included. The parts look just like what you took apart and reassembled in your video. In other words, I have no numeric dial. Thanks again for your videos and your extra help !
Is it possible the wheel you turn to get motion can in some way be stuck? My crank underneath only seems to turn at a certain point when the big wheel on the right moves and then seems to stop. Apologies for the non-technical language.
Yes, and this happens frequently to machines that have stood idle and/or the lubrication has been allowed to "dry up". If this appears to be the case, if the machine looks fairly dry, get some kerosene and a small oil can. Fill the oil can with kerosene and go around all the oiling points on the machine and apply the kerosene as though you were oiling the machine. Allow it to stand about an hour and then do it again and touch every part ad you rock the wheel back and forth looking for the part that is tight-that will the part that is holding it up. Continue rocking and searching and when you find the part or the machine frees up apply another heavy dose of kerosene and run the machine rapidly. Run the machine faster than normal for 10 to 20 minutes, making sure everything stays wet with kerosene. It should be quite free after 20 minutes. Wipe everything thing down with a rag and then oil with a good oil. Then run the machine rapidly for 5 minutes and wipe down again. A good oil is 3-in-1 in the blue bottle. Do not use regular 3-in-1 because it will gum up the machine again more quickly.
I am not sure why my tension disks dont move at all .. when I move the thingy on the side (still learning the lingo .. ) I am learning alot about the machine.. but it still is not working correctly.. so I am on the hunt for someone to tell me what the heck I am doing incorrectly
okbridges my tension doesn’t loosen or tighten when I put it back together and lifted lever it did nothing I’ve took all off twice following you putting it back
I fixed my mother's 1924, factory, singer sewing machine tensioner after 4 attempts by others.
What you called the "check spring " was resting at 10 o'clock .
I cleaned everything and re - positioned that spring to 12 o'clock which gave the check spring more tension .
I went one step further than your video and removed the barrel thing that houses the "check spring ". A set screw was holding the barrel in place. This allowed me to re- position it to 12 o'clock position.
The stitch was good on the top and loose on the bottom .
Now it's working as designed!
We have a very happy 82 year old seamstress !
Excellent - this helped me fix the same issue with an old machine. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! I attempted removing these components on my new machine and they seem to be overtightened via the end nut. Any advice on how to break that bond without stripping threads or using wrong tool on threaded parts? I used PB but it is still stuck.
Are you referring to the thumb nut that adjusts the tension? You may not be able to turn it by hand. You will need a couple strips of scrap leather to pad the jaws of channel lock pliers to prevent damage to the knurling and get the nut started turning, then use fingers to finish screwing it off. Use a wire brush and clean the threads after you get it apart.
@@okbridges thank you! I padded the nut with thin fabric and then attempted turning the bolt with a screw driver and small pliers, but failed at loosening the tensioner assembly . I'll go for the leather technique. All of my parts on the tensioning bolt seem compressed and I cannot determine what level of tension the machine is on with the parts included. The parts look just like what you took apart and reassembled in your video. In other words, I have no numeric dial. Thanks again for your videos and your extra help !
Is it possible the wheel you turn to get motion can in some way be stuck? My crank underneath only seems to turn at a certain point when the big wheel on the right moves and then seems to stop. Apologies for the non-technical language.
Yes, and this happens frequently to machines that have stood idle and/or the lubrication has been allowed to "dry up". If this appears to be the case, if the machine looks fairly dry, get some kerosene and a small oil can. Fill the oil can with kerosene and go around all the oiling points on the machine and apply the kerosene as though you were oiling the machine. Allow it to stand about an hour and then do it again and touch every part ad you rock the wheel back and forth looking for the part that is tight-that will the part that is holding it up. Continue rocking and searching and when you find the part or the machine frees up apply another heavy dose of kerosene and run the machine rapidly. Run the machine faster than normal for 10 to 20 minutes, making sure everything stays wet with kerosene. It should be quite free after 20 minutes. Wipe everything thing down with a rag and then oil with a good oil. Then run the machine rapidly for 5 minutes and wipe down again.
A good oil is 3-in-1 in the blue bottle. Do not use regular 3-in-1 because it will gum up the machine again more quickly.
If all of that came apart on me, I most likely would've assembled it backwards too!
Have you thought about using boiled linseed oil on the cabinet to restore the finish?
You said its backwards under the top..what is backwards??
The bobbin was threaded wrong and had the thread leading off the bobbin backwards.
I am not sure why my tension disks dont move at all .. when I move the thingy on the side (still learning the lingo .. ) I am learning alot about the machine.. but it still is not working correctly.. so I am on the hunt for someone to tell me what the heck I am doing incorrectly
Is your tension not releasing when you raise the presser foot?
okbridges my tension doesn’t loosen or tighten when I put it back together and lifted lever it did nothing
I’ve took all off twice following you putting it back
@@willablake9284 do you have a little pin inside it?