Im an upholsterer of 30 years , you sir have given the best explanation of this . Can be applied to all sewing machines, a primary setting that SHOULD be done . Great idea with 2 colours .
Thank you for taking the time to show the full range of situations-from rat’s nest to home-machine bottom tension (out of the machine). Your explanations are very helpful, as well as empathetic (eg, “you might be thinking there is something horribly wrong with your machine, but...”).
This is, by far, the BEST video I've seen here on YT explaining and showing how tension works! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us. I've learned a lot!
I have to thank you for sharing this information. I literally thought something was wrong with my TECHSEW postbed machine. I kept seen the bobbin tread pop up from under. After watching this video I played around with the tension and boom! what I thought was a major issue was a simple tension problem.
Thanks again Alexander! The nests stopped when I increased the top tension. Just like you said. I just turned 69, and I started learning to sew finally! Sewing is a riot! Thanks, merci beaucoup from downtown Montreal!
This is the best video I ever saw that explained simply and effectively how to understand and adjust tension!! I have a new Juki 1541 that needed a little adjustment and now is sewing a perfect stich. Thank you!
Thanks AD - Man I hate those dreaded 'rats nests' especially in my 211 - with the notch in the bobbin case that rests in the bottom needle plate. I see you are proficient at removing the plate to release the rats nest. I usually try to carefully dig/cut it out from the bottom. Removing the plate is usually the last resort but occasionally necessary if not caught soon enough. I love your wit - great tension tutorial.
Would like to see you do a further addemdum talking about overall combined tension, how it can cause problems like pucker or just not tight enough seams the other way and how the sweet spot in the middle is acheived. just food for another great video some day...
this is amazing. I never understood what this all meant until now. I didn't understand the figure, and I didn't know how to test my tension except "yeah, this looks good."
I find as I go as the bobbin gets less full I have to make adjustments, Setting up for the material doesn’t necessarily mean you make it through the whole project… keep adjusting
Not being creepy....Has anyone ever seen this mans face? I love his work and what he's doing with sewing for men but seriously...Not seeing his face is like the Wilson character on Home Improvement.
Hi Alexander , you contact and explanations are excellent. You make a very good teacher. I'm so glad to have found you on the internet, it is music to my ears . I'm a product of the what used to be a the sewing industry here in South Africa. Unfortunately when the current government came into power they destroyed this industry when they decided to allow China to dump their crape in this country. Now just about very Item of apparel and footwear, is produced elsewhere. Keep up the good work.
Love the Videos. The Sewing Machine Industry basically failed to inform clients about there Products. We only had the Manual Books which was/still Fantastic. The Illustrations are worldclass but this kind of Videos makes it much easier to understand.
Thanks so much for sharing this! My tension was set perfect when I picked up my industrial machine but I accidentally bumped it the other night and threw it all off. This is super helpful!
Great video! Great camera work as always. But what I was really hoping you would explain is how one might know when tension was completely balanced, but either too high or too low. In other words, what happens when you back off the bobbin case tension a lot, and back off the top tension an equal amount? Or crank both up? How does that affect the result?
If it is all too tight you mighy see bunching of the fabric and if is too loose you will notice the threads not set down against the fabric and or a loose seam when you pull the two pieces at opposite angles.
Thank you for the info. I checked the top tension and bobbin tension but my tension is still super tight and not sure what else to check. I have a Juki 1541 that was donated. Any other options for me? Thanks! Laurel
Are there any issues other than tension that can cause the rat's nest? I'm using a Juki LU 563 and I've set the tension according to this and other very clear youtube tutorials, it will sew perfectly for up to quite a while and then suddenly I hear and feel a loose rattling, my material (leather) bunches under the foot and it looks like the bottom thread tightly pulls the material at the same time causing a rat's nest. Please help!
Thanks. Great explanation. I did not see those cute little clips on your shopping list. Looked again and saw some. Those multicolor plastic type things make my brain hurt. I did find some red ones like you are using in the end.
Tengo mi máquina con el mismo tipo de tensión ya lo desarme y limpie y me tensa demasiado el hilo lo ajusta demasiado hasta hacer fozar demasiado mi máquina como podré solucionarlo
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. Your diction is great and camera work is fantastic. I was struggling with rats nesting of the top thread yesterday on my home machine (Singer 500J) while topstitching with thick thread (Tex 90) on cotton canvas shorts. I had regular all purpose poly thread in the bobbin. I think it took me a while to work out all the issues. The needle was a jeans type size 100. It might have been still too small for that thread. I did not have a size 120 to try nor a topstiching needle type. Mea culpa on that one. The bobbin tension had gotten loose somehow. I fixed that using a 1 once weight to calibrate the bobbin. It did help. The top tension adjustment is still very sensitive. Just moving from 2 to 3 on the dial would result in too much tension. I have not had success taking this tensioning unit apart to clean yet (the dial thumb wheel will not come out) but I will try passing a thread with little knots in it to check for the presence of lint. It might be that I was pushing the limits of my machine too. I do not have an industrial size straight sewing machine and that could be helpful for that size of thread. I am going to make some jeans pants and jackets and will see how it all goes. Daniel
AtelierDBurgoyne Daniel, I have found that if the top & bottom threads are of different thickness and weight that I can never get the tension of the stitch correct. Maybe there’s a way to do, but I don’t know how to do it.
Great video, I learned a lot about tention from this video. However, I have another problem, I have thread bunching up and freying on the needle in front of the hole in the needle, what causes that and how do you keep that from happening? Thanks
Hello.Mr Dyer....hope you are well.... I have a consew 7360 R... I was using Tex 80 thread..changed color and problems began...weird.. I followed the video on tension..and seems that I need to tighten top thread..SO I began...the know won't tighten any more and still the top thread is going through the bottom.. Do I need to touch the bottom tension and start over?? I hope you can help me... My local.repair man is no.longer repairing industrials...TIA Madeleine
Since the problem began when changing thread; go back and reload your bobbin, make sure everything is right down there, might be something in there no quite right.
Sir your way of explaining and demonstrating the things is really superb 👍. I was so confused and facing much difficulty as how to adjust the top settings but now i am much clear. Thnx a lot. You made it really easy 😊
Thank you so much I have been trying to work out how to do this for weeks, then I was told about your site brilliant once again thank for taking the time to do this.
Amazing video! I'm so happy I found your channel as I just got a TechSew 2700 and didn't think about thread tension at all. I haven't used the machine yet as I need to replace the belts but I am looking forward to more great information, thank you!
I like to set up with 2 layers of material and yes, sometimes when set absolutely correct there is variation among stitches from one to the next. Also there are condition where you can actually see the other thread from each side with your magnifier. There just isn't enough depth of fabric to completely hide the lock but that is as good as you can do and is a good balanced stitch.
Awesome video and has helped me out. That said, my thread tension is looking great going forward but the back stitch. The bottom looks a little nesty. I have a Singer 211U567AB. Thank you.
Hmmm, well, first let me say I don't know but. I have had this problem in the past and the solution was to increase the opening tolerance on the bobbin case 'opener'. The opener is that little finger/pin that just kisses the bobbin case on each rotation of the machine. If the thread catches on this a little bit you will get that misformed stitch and it seems to happen more on reverse for some reason.
Thank-you! Agreed; best explanation. Thank you for putting yourself through the annoyance of this just to show us. Is there anything more annoying than poor stitches? A: No. 😂
Alexander, I have a Singer 111W153 which has the identical upper tension assembly as this 211. I am interested in how to adjust the second, lower knob in the upper tension assembly. I specifically noticed how you threaded the upper tension assembly including the specific "click". The second knob seems to regulate the take up spring. Your videos are so helpful in refurbishing and adjusting industrial sewing machines. Thank you for your time, expertise and experience in sewing machines.
Hi Alexander, really thanks for this video, that is very clear and easy to understand with your explanation. Can you help me with additional topic? Do you know if there is any method / equipment to evaluate if the sew is like first/second/third figure showed by you on video? I have some variation, a lot of good pieces (let's say 100 goods) and few with loose loop (let's say 1 or 2 for each 100 goods). Maybe it's needed a fine tune for the tensions, i don't know....
given that is only happen 1 in 100 stitches ... 🤔 ... Now I can't know ... it could be something that only happens at certain events like ... maybe when you make a turn or manipulate the fabric in some manner.
I’m having issues with the bobbin thread skipping stitches in my industrial machine Adjusting the top tension isn’t helping. I saw a video on the bobbin area needs to be adjusted . Do you address this in any videos? Thank you!
Skipped stitches are not typically caused by tension issues. Watch this for some common causes of sewing problems. th-cam.com/video/dVprkJXNma0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Alexander, your videos are total awesome! I have a Adler 167 it is set up for 138 Tenera thread. 130 needle. I have been sewing marine canvas enclosures for 3O years . I have been use this thread since my supplier started carry it . At first it was too oil being high speed thread . Then delaminating of the outer coating . Now that all the bugs have been eliminated from the producer it’s wonderful thread ,lifetime warranty, my client love it , so do I cause once I build something I never won’t to see it again unless something catastrophic happens from Mother Nature or the client . The tension that I have to apply to the thread because of the slipperiness is so much that it is cutting a groove into the casting . I have been taught that the thicker the material the tighter the thread tension should be .So what happens is when I’m sewing a couple of layers the bottom pops up to the top stitch ! I really don’t want to be going back and forth with resetting of the tension because the learning curve was so great with this thread , once I figured it out I just want to leave it alone ! I guess the only option is to use another compound feed for doing just a couple of lays .
I think your needle may be too small. My chart says to use a 22 (140) or 23 (160) with tex 138 thread. This could help to explain the de-laminating. That is an easy thing to at least try. As to adjusting the tension for different projects it should be easy to learn, just tighten it a little for this project and loosen a little for that project. Easy, but not as easy as buying a new machine 😉
Great video, I now have a better understanding of the upper tension disk. However, you did not explain the other (lower of the two upper tension disks)? What does it control? Also, I have an issue with the thread bunching up in front of the needle hole (like a bird's nest). What causes the thread to bunch up in front of the needle hole, and how do you prevent it? Thanks
I think you are first speaking of the take up spring which controls thread slack to prevent thread getting in front of the needle point prior to the needle entering the material. I guess if that is not set right it could cause your thread issue.
I apologize I see you address it but I don’t have a drop in bobbin. Is the adjustment only on the bobbin case ? Do I ever touch the screws on the actual machine?
With drop in bobbins the case remains in the machine. The adjustment for the spring still exists and yes you can adjust it while it is in the machine. I address this style of bobbin and case and I also point to the tensioning spring in this linked video that will start playing at the appropriate time for your convenience. th-cam.com/video/NYE5B6OPj4k/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this video I am a leather crafter who recently bought a leather sewing machine and I am having trouble when I change thread thickness this video will be a great help thankyou again.
Great explanation of top thread tension. I am still not sure how to adjust the bottom tension. Theoretically, you could tighten the bobbin tension and then also tighten the top tension to keep it in balance. How do decide if the bobbin tension is tight or loose enough?
Most of the time a person only needs to adjust the top tension and as long as that works then there isn't' much call to go deeper. I'm not sure how to tell you how to set the lower other than to say the thread should pull out lightly. It is something I just do by feel and I developed that feel by trial and error.
I'm trying to stitch 2 - 3 layers of Sunbrella canvas on a Pfaff 1245 using 138 thd. and 140 needle I can't keep the bottom thread from pulling up to the top. Even when I reduce the top thread tension to the point of rat nesting the bottom thread knot clearly shows on top. I've adjusted bottom thread tension to max on the bobbin case. Still seems kind of loose but I have nothing to compare it to. I have ordered a new bobbin case hoping that is the culprit but this one seems fine. I sure could use some help with this one.
I thank you for showing how to adjust tension.but I have another question: I just found a mercury industrial machine.sews good but when I press the pedal it is on speed.would you know how to adjust the table pedal? Any help would be great
Relating to the thread passing through the tension discs. Should the thread be completely between the discs or resting in the groove created by the 2 discs meeting?
I need help...I have an old Singer. 111w. It out of time. Do you have a machine like this so I can watch. You teach me how to reset the timing myachin?? Help?!
Great video Explained perfectly however you did not say how to determine the proper tension for the bottom bobbin Question What type of set up do you need to sew thru heavy Levis? and type of needle
I don't know how else to say what I said in the video which is it should feel pretty light and I show how I test for that feel. It comes down to experience or drawing on the experience of others to show you first hand. here is the part of the video I'm referencing th-cam.com/video/xax0RTCqYTk/w-d-xo.html I use standard point needles for almost everything with good result. I use my needle feed machines to sew denim.
Possibilities: Top tension spring too small/light, bottom tension too tight, thread clearance under throat plate issues. if the thread path under the throat plate is encountering resistance it can effect the machines ability to pull up the thread properly.
Hi Alexander thank you so much for your very clear explination regarding machine tentioning. My wife has been having issues with her Juki DDL8700 for quite some time but you has just trained me to be able to fix 1 of her sewing problems. Once again thank you very much. Regards Brian and Marilyn Hudson, Brisbane Australia
can you do video on 335 Pfaff cylinder arm , thread keep breaking and needles as well , I use s20 thread and 110-18 needle , please advise , also can we use s10 thread which is thicker for top threads and bottom to stay as s 20 thread ????? thank you master of sewing
Thank you for watching my video and for all the kind and supportive comments. You are all part of such a wonderful community.
My consew 206rb-5 top stitch i adjusted tensioner but it seems like theirs no tension whatsoever..please help
Do you still have the 211 that you used when you made this video?
Absolutely the best explanation and demonstration of thread tension and what to fix and how to fix! Bravo!
Agreed superb video
Im an upholsterer of 30 years , you sir have given the best explanation of this . Can be applied to all sewing machines, a primary setting that SHOULD be done . Great idea with 2 colours .
Your on FIRE with the dad jokes! I caught those because I paid... A-tension!!🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for taking the time to show the full range of situations-from rat’s nest to home-machine bottom tension (out of the machine). Your explanations are very helpful, as well as empathetic (eg, “you might be thinking there is something horribly wrong with your machine, but...”).
That is just what I do.😀
You are a KING! Now I'm just watching videos to watch them. Your videos have been really helpful, thanks!
This is, by far, the BEST video I've seen here on YT explaining and showing how tension works! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us. I've learned a lot!
Absolutely true
So helpful! I've just graduated from tension school!
Now you can do your graduate in threading.
I have to thank you for sharing this information. I literally thought something was wrong with my TECHSEW postbed machine. I kept seen the bobbin tread pop up from under. After watching this video I played around with the tension and boom! what I thought was a major issue was a simple tension problem.
Thank you a million times! Excellent video and explanation! My tension headache has disappeared and my tension thread I no longer fear!😉
Thankyou somach nice exploring
You are one of, if not THE best industrial sewing machine information video makers on the internet. Thank you for what you do.
Thanks again Alexander! The nests stopped when I increased the top tension. Just like you said. I just turned 69, and I started learning to sew finally! Sewing is a riot! Thanks, merci beaucoup from downtown Montreal!
You have produced the best how to/problem solving video . it has been a great help to me .thank you
Hey Mr Alex .. nice job .. some good photography showing the bobbin/tension spring parts and adjustments.
Thank you. I think it helps when you can see what I am talking about so I try to get good shots.
Really a fantastic video. I recently acquired a Singer 211 and this is very helpful.
Thank you. It’s very helpful. I really learned a lot about thread tension. So far you are the best of all I have seen. Thank you again.
SO CLEARLY EXPLANATION, I AM STARTING IN SEWING MACHINES AND IT IS AN AMAZING WORLD, THANKS FOR SHARING
This is the best video I ever saw that explained simply and effectively how to understand and adjust tension!! I have a new Juki 1541 that needed a little adjustment and now is sewing a perfect stich. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Really nice video. Mastering and understanding the basics makes the work so much easier.
Thanks AD - Man I hate those dreaded 'rats nests' especially in my 211 - with the notch in the bobbin case that rests in the bottom needle plate. I see you are proficient at removing the plate to release the rats nest. I usually try to carefully dig/cut it out from the bottom. Removing the plate is usually the last resort but occasionally necessary if not caught soon enough. I love your wit - great tension tutorial.
Yes, I am like you, but I got pretty extreme with the problem setup and I was using Tex105. 😳
Would like to see you do a further addemdum talking about overall combined tension, how it can cause problems like pucker or just not tight enough seams the other way and how the sweet spot in the middle is acheived. just food for another great video some day...
I wish I would have included that in this video. I will have to figure how to best present that. Thanks for the input.
this is amazing. I never understood what this all meant until now. I didn't understand the figure, and I didn't know how to test my tension except "yeah, this looks good."
but how do I know when I need to fix the tension on the bobbin?
I find as I go as the bobbin gets less full I have to make adjustments, Setting up for the material doesn’t necessarily mean you make it through the whole project… keep adjusting
The best explanation! I will always remember this. Thank you!
Not being creepy....Has anyone ever seen this mans face? I love his work and what he's doing with sewing for men but seriously...Not seeing his face is like the Wilson character on Home Improvement.
It is no secret but it is also irrelevant. Come to think of it, I have not seen your face either so.....
@@AlexanderDyer ...didnt mean for it to offend. 🤪 just thought it was sorta funny.
None taken friend. I think it is funny too. I was trying to be pithy but humor is hard for me. I should have included a 😄
Hi Alexander , you contact and explanations are excellent. You make a very good teacher. I'm so glad to have found you on the internet, it is music to my ears . I'm a product of the what used to be a the sewing industry here in South Africa. Unfortunately when the current government came into power they destroyed this industry when they decided to allow China to dump their crape in this country. Now just about very Item of apparel and footwear, is produced elsewhere. Keep up the good work.
THANK YOU for all you do for all of us! I've seen others, but your delivery worked for my brain :-) Best, @HoneyOnWales
Love the Videos. The Sewing Machine Industry basically failed to inform clients about there Products. We only had the Manual Books which was/still Fantastic. The Illustrations are worldclass but this kind of Videos makes it much easier to understand.
Thanks so much for sharing this! My tension was set perfect when I picked up my industrial machine but I accidentally bumped it the other night and threw it all off. This is super helpful!
Very nice description of tension. I think I might be able to adjust it now. Thank you.
I know you can.
Great video! Great camera work as always. But what I was really hoping you would explain is how one might know when tension was completely balanced, but either too high or too low. In other words, what happens when you back off the bobbin case tension a lot, and back off the top tension an equal amount? Or crank both up? How does that affect the result?
If it is all too tight you mighy see bunching of the fabric and if is too loose you will notice the threads not set down against the fabric and or a loose seam when you pull the two pieces at opposite angles.
I have a brother industrial sewing machine Db2-763. I can't adjust its bottom thread for some reason. Tried all possible things
Hey thanks, I always wondered about bottom thread tension and could never find a difinative answer.
Probably the most understandable video I have yet to see on this topic. Thank you for that. I can’t wait to see the rest of your videos.
Thank you for the info. I checked the top tension and bobbin tension but my tension is still super tight and not sure what else to check. I have a Juki 1541 that was donated. Any other options for me? Thanks! Laurel
Are there any issues other than tension that can cause the rat's nest? I'm using a Juki LU 563 and I've set the tension according to this and other very clear youtube tutorials, it will sew perfectly for up to quite a while and then suddenly I hear and feel a loose rattling, my material (leather) bunches under the foot and it looks like the bottom thread tightly pulls the material at the same time causing a rat's nest. Please help!
very interessing video, thanks i have more troubles whit my Adler 69-373. Today i will try to use the skills in this video. Good job!
Great video, and a very helpful explanation and demonstration of tension adjustment.
Thanks. Great explanation. I did not see those cute little clips on your shopping list. Looked again and saw some. Those multicolor plastic type things make my brain hurt. I did find some red ones like you are using in the end.
Always so helpful and informative. I was really hung up on understanding tension, until you explained it here. Thank you.
Same here
Thank you...just what i needed to learn just picked up my first machine have alot to learn
Really good explanation, thanks Alexander!
😃
Thanks man for sharing 🙏 I have a consew sewing machine it's confusing digital machine.
Tengo mi máquina con el mismo tipo de tensión ya lo desarme y limpie y me tensa demasiado el hilo lo ajusta demasiado hasta hacer fozar demasiado mi máquina como podré solucionarlo
You're a very good teacher.
Your explanation is very clear.
Perfection! Thank You! My favorite feature is your accent! I could listen to you all day😁
clever tips👍 thx. and good content
Thank you. 🍀
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. Your diction is great and camera work is fantastic.
I was struggling with rats nesting of the top thread yesterday on my home machine (Singer 500J) while topstitching with thick thread (Tex 90) on cotton canvas shorts. I had regular all purpose poly thread in the bobbin.
I think it took me a while to work out all the issues.
The needle was a jeans type size 100. It might have been still too small for that thread. I did not have a size 120 to try nor a topstiching needle type. Mea culpa on that one.
The bobbin tension had gotten loose somehow. I fixed that using a 1 once weight to calibrate the bobbin. It did help.
The top tension adjustment is still very sensitive. Just moving from 2 to 3 on the dial would result in too much tension. I have not had success taking this tensioning unit apart to clean yet (the dial thumb wheel will not come out) but I will try passing a thread with little knots in it to check for the presence of lint.
It might be that I was pushing the limits of my machine too. I do not have an industrial size straight sewing machine and that could be helpful for that size of thread. I am going to make some jeans pants and jackets and will see how it all goes.
Daniel
AtelierDBurgoyne Daniel, I have found that if the top & bottom threads are of different thickness and weight that I can never get the tension of the stitch correct.
Maybe there’s a way to do, but I don’t know how to do it.
Thank you! I am always so nervous to change the tension. This helps!
That was so helpful and well explained. Thanks
Great video, I learned a lot about tention from this video. However, I have another problem, I have thread bunching up and freying on the needle in front of the hole in the needle, what causes that and how do you keep that from happening? Thanks
Could be bad thread. Could be too small of needle. Could be a burr on your hook. Could be a bent needle or ...
I hope I can fix my tension issue tomorrow thank you for the explanation
Hi there what causes the problem to where it won’t even stitch into the material from bottom or top?
Hello.Mr Dyer....hope you are well....
I have a consew 7360 R...
I was using Tex 80 thread..changed color and problems began...weird..
I followed the video on tension..and seems that I need to tighten top thread..SO I began...the know won't tighten any more and still the top thread is going through the bottom..
Do I need to touch the bottom tension and start over??
I hope you can help me...
My local.repair man is no.longer repairing industrials...TIA
Madeleine
Since the problem began when changing thread; go back and reload your bobbin, make sure everything is right down there, might be something in there no quite right.
Amazing! Wish you lived next door, lol!
Sir your way of explaining and demonstrating the things is really superb 👍. I was so confused and facing much difficulty as how to adjust the top settings but now i am much clear. Thnx a lot. You made it really easy 😊
Thanks and welcome
Well explained, thank you!
😃
You just taught me how to fish....thank you sir.
Thank you so much I have been trying to work out how to do this for weeks, then I was told about your site brilliant once again thank for taking the time to do this.
Glad to help!
How you assemble this peace.? Or clean it ?
Thank you so much for explaining this
Amazing video! I'm so happy I found your channel as I just got a TechSew 2700 and didn't think about thread tension at all. I haven't used the machine yet as I need to replace the belts but I am looking forward to more great information, thank you!
Welcome and thank you.
Great video, thanks for the wisdom!
How close up should you look at stitches? If I examine stitches using a magnifying glass, is that taking things too far. Am I just torturing myself?
I like to set up with 2 layers of material and yes, sometimes when set absolutely correct there is variation among stitches from one to the next. Also there are condition where you can actually see the other thread from each side with your magnifier. There just isn't enough depth of fabric to completely hide the lock but that is as good as you can do and is a good balanced stitch.
Awesome video and has helped me out. That said, my thread tension is looking great going forward but the back stitch. The bottom looks a little nesty. I have a Singer 211U567AB. Thank you.
Hmmm, well, first let me say I don't know but. I have had this problem in the past and the solution was to increase the opening tolerance on the bobbin case 'opener'. The opener is that little finger/pin that just kisses the bobbin case on each rotation of the machine. If the thread catches on this a little bit you will get that misformed stitch and it seems to happen more on reverse for some reason.
Thank-you! Agreed; best explanation. Thank you for putting yourself through the annoyance of this just to show us. Is there anything more annoying than poor stitches? A: No. 😂
All in a days work. 🙏
Outstanding clarity in explanation. You have a gift!
Thank you kindly!
Super useful to me a beginner, probably saved me hours of frustration!
many thanks for sharing your wisdom
Great to hear! Thank you.
Thanks for the excellent explanation!
This helped me a lot,
thanks!
Alexander,
I have a Singer 111W153 which has the identical upper tension assembly as this 211.
I am interested in how to adjust the second, lower knob in the upper tension assembly. I specifically noticed how you threaded the upper tension assembly including the specific "click". The second knob seems to regulate the take up spring.
Your videos are so helpful in refurbishing and adjusting industrial sewing machines.
Thank you for your time, expertise and experience in sewing machines.
check out Ewe Grosse th-cam.com/video/XicwSGPaYiA/w-d-xo.html
I have a Juki DDL8700 and want to do FMQ on it. My problem thus far is how to stop my thread from skipping a stitch. Please advise.
There are many things that could cause stitch skipping. I cover several in this video ... th-cam.com/video/dVprkJXNma0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Alexander, really thanks for this video, that is very clear and easy to understand with your explanation. Can you help me with additional topic? Do you know if there is any method / equipment to evaluate if the sew is like first/second/third figure showed by you on video? I have some variation, a lot of good pieces (let's say 100 goods) and few with loose loop (let's say 1 or 2 for each 100 goods). Maybe it's needed a fine tune for the tensions, i don't know....
given that is only happen 1 in 100 stitches ... 🤔 ... Now I can't know ... it could be something that only happens at certain events like ... maybe when you make a turn or manipulate the fabric in some manner.
I’m having issues with the bobbin thread skipping stitches in my industrial machine
Adjusting the top tension isn’t helping.
I saw a video on the bobbin area needs to be adjusted . Do you address this in any videos? Thank you!
Skipped stitches are not typically caused by tension issues. Watch this for some common causes of sewing problems. th-cam.com/video/dVprkJXNma0/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get that guide at the end of your video?
Shared and I am so greatful you did too ty.
Hi Alexander, your videos are total awesome!
I have a Adler 167 it is set up for 138 Tenera thread. 130 needle.
I have been sewing marine canvas enclosures for 3O years . I have been use this thread since my supplier started carry it . At first it was too oil being high speed thread . Then delaminating of the outer coating . Now that all the bugs have been eliminated from the producer
it’s wonderful thread ,lifetime warranty, my client love it , so do I cause once I build something I never won’t to see it again unless something catastrophic happens from
Mother Nature or the client .
The tension that I have to apply to the thread because of the slipperiness is so much that it is cutting a groove into the casting .
I have been taught that the thicker the material the tighter the thread tension should be .So what happens is when I’m sewing a couple of layers
the bottom pops up to the top stitch ! I really don’t want to be going back and forth with resetting of the tension because the learning curve was so great with this thread , once I figured it out I just want to leave it alone !
I guess the only option is to use another compound feed for doing just a couple of lays .
I think your needle may be too small. My chart says to use a 22 (140) or 23 (160) with tex 138 thread. This could help to explain the de-laminating. That is an easy thing to at least try. As to adjusting the tension for different projects it should be easy to learn, just tighten it a little for this project and loosen a little for that project. Easy, but not as easy as buying a new machine 😉
Great video, I now have a better understanding of the upper tension disk. However, you did not explain the other (lower of the two upper tension disks)? What does it control?
Also, I have an issue with the thread bunching up in front of the needle hole (like a bird's nest). What causes the thread to bunch up in front of the needle hole, and how do you prevent it? Thanks
I think you are first speaking of the take up spring which controls thread slack to prevent thread getting in front of the needle point prior to the needle entering the material. I guess if that is not set right it could cause your thread issue.
Excellent demonstration. I understand tension so much clearer now. Thanks.
Good.
I apologize I see you address it but I don’t have a drop in bobbin. Is the adjustment only on the bobbin case ? Do I ever touch the screws on the actual machine?
With drop in bobbins the case remains in the machine. The adjustment for the spring still exists and yes you can adjust it while it is in the machine. I address this style of bobbin and case and I also point to the tensioning spring in this linked video that will start playing at the appropriate time for your convenience. th-cam.com/video/NYE5B6OPj4k/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this video I am a leather crafter who recently bought a leather sewing machine and I am having trouble when I change thread thickness this video will be a great help thankyou again.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation of top thread tension. I am still not sure how to adjust the bottom tension. Theoretically, you could tighten the bobbin tension and then also tighten the top tension to keep it in balance. How do decide if the bobbin tension is tight or loose enough?
Most of the time a person only needs to adjust the top tension and as long as that works then there isn't' much call to go deeper. I'm not sure how to tell you how to set the lower other than to say the thread should pull out lightly. It is something I just do by feel and I developed that feel by trial and error.
Thank you, I shared to my kenmore sewing machine group on Facebook.
Great
I'm trying to stitch 2 - 3 layers of Sunbrella canvas on a Pfaff 1245 using 138 thd. and 140 needle
I can't keep the bottom thread from pulling up to the top.
Even when I reduce the top thread tension to the point of rat nesting the bottom thread knot clearly shows on top.
I've adjusted bottom thread tension to max on the bobbin case. Still seems kind of loose but I have nothing to compare it to.
I have ordered a new bobbin case hoping that is the culprit but this one seems fine.
I sure could use some help with this one.
Check your thread path. Starting with the tree. Make sure your thread is pulling straight up above the spool to start.
I thank you for showing how to adjust tension.but I have another question: I just found a mercury industrial machine.sews good but when I press the pedal it is on speed.would you know how to adjust the table pedal? Any help would be great
This might help with that issue th-cam.com/video/lavkvsU5ltk/w-d-xo.html
Lovely explanation - thank you
Relating to the thread passing through the tension discs. Should the thread be completely between the discs or resting in the groove created by the 2 discs meeting?
Completely sandwiched and seated all the way in there.
Great explanation. Thanks.
I need help...I have an old Singer. 111w. It out of time. Do you have a machine like this so I can watch. You teach me how to reset the timing myachin?? Help?!
Timing is similar on lots of these industrials. I think Ewe Grosse has a good hook timing videos that may help you. th-cam.com/users/UweXYvideos
Thank you so much. This has helped me
Clearest explanation there is on this issue. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Great video Explained perfectly however you did not say how to determine the proper tension for the bottom bobbin Question What type of set up do you need to sew thru heavy Levis? and type of needle
I don't know how else to say what I said in the video which is it should feel pretty light and I show how I test for that feel. It comes down to experience or drawing on the experience of others to show you first hand. here is the part of the video I'm referencing th-cam.com/video/xax0RTCqYTk/w-d-xo.html I use standard point needles for almost everything with good result. I use my needle feed machines to sew denim.
I am not able to get the bottom stitch to pull up to the middle unless I have my top tension maxed out. What could be the issue? Using a Juki 1541s
Possibilities: Top tension spring too small/light, bottom tension too tight, thread clearance under throat plate issues. if the thread path under the throat plate is encountering resistance it can effect the machines ability to pull up the thread properly.
Thank you. Well explained
hello sir,why do i have to overtight the upper thread tension for stiching on a mitsubishi LS2-150
th-cam.com/video/dVprkJXNma0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Alexander thank you so much for your very clear explination regarding machine tentioning. My wife has been having issues with her Juki DDL8700 for quite some time but you has just trained me to be able to fix 1 of her sewing problems. Once again thank you very much. Regards Brian and Marilyn Hudson, Brisbane Australia
Great video, well done, easy to understand. Thanks!
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I love your videos and your style of explaining things. Thank you.
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can you do video on 335 Pfaff cylinder arm , thread keep breaking and needles as well , I use s20 thread and 110-18 needle , please advise , also can we use s10 thread which is thicker for top threads and bottom to stay as s 20 thread ????? thank you master of sewing