I may need to skip that last turn and mill to the deck for at least a while. Hold out one bastion of stubbornness for a while before I go that far and take it all the way.
TH-cam channel 'Project of the day' about a year ago addressed the turning issue with a great reason to do 180 degree turns and that is after a 90 degree turn more weight of the log is putting pressure on the dog side of the mill due to the offset weight after only one cut. Especially on the lighter mills it can be enough to unsquare or twist the mill itself. Even if no twist, it is still a lot of weight on the dog side. With a 180 turn there is only down pressure/weight on the bunks. I would say you were doing it more correctly from the beginning. 'The Old Man and the Saw' also does 180 turns. Just saying you aren't alone.
I haven't tried using the 90 deg method but after watching your video I'm going to give it a try. I particularly like the thought of having the toe board inplace for the first 2 cuts, rather than removingit for the 2nd cut and then forgetting to replace it for the 3rd cut. Also, having one staight edge on the flitches is probably going to have a major impact on how much I enjoy edging those.
Me thinks that with an offset hewing ax head, you may have an easier time with the 'cleaning' of these logs. You may get a more precise angle of attack to get to that dirt faster, thus saving you time and effort. Just an armchair thought whilst watching this great teaching video. Thanks for your channel and the laughs as well. Many thumbs up Michael!!
The flitches having a straight edge is a MAJOR advantage. I've been doing the 180 method on my Norwood LM30 because I was having trouble keeping the can't square when I did the 90 method. Now that I have more experience, I'll go back and try the 90 method again. Also, just watching this, it seemed to me you might get one more flitch out of a similar long with the 90 method. I cut 1x4's too...
Well, I just tried it and I still prefer the 180. I've got a system down that I know where I am at all times and don't have to worry about the log stops and the log dog as much. I'll keep an open mind, but for now, I'm sticking with the 180 method. Plus I don't have to worry as much about getting my can't square.
For me it’s not a huge preference between either of them. They both have advantages and disadvantages. I think the 180 does make it easier to keep things square.
I generally turn 90° because centering the heart is my least favourite step in milling a log. I'm a cabinetmaker and the OCD in me wants to be within an ⅛" or less from end to end on my LT40. On larger diameter 16' to 20' logs that can mean several trips up and down the mill bed with the cutter head. Once I have my first two slabs off I'm off to the races without having to worry about any more toe adjustments. I tend to turn my logs frequently to take the tension out of the log evenly. Both methods have advantages depending on the shape of the log and what type of dimensions you are trying to get out of it.
Using the 90 degree method is faster and easier than the 180 degree method but is accurate only on small to medium logs. For boards less than 6/4 a 90 degree edge isn't so critical since the board will usually undergo further processing. On large logs, or when milling 6/4 and thicker lumber, where a true 90 degree cant is required, I prefer to turn 180 degrees and then use a square for the third turn. This ensures a 90 degree cant corner; which ensures square framing lumber. Dave The Square
Good info Dave. I haven’t tried the 90 yet on large logs. I think on large logs I might run into the same problems I was trying to describe in my video about 180.
We generally turn the logs 90 degrees at a time if for no other reason it seems like less wrestling of the heavy logs. Plus the flitch advantage I never really thought about before, but most of them have a straight edge.
I took to the 90 degree turning on my woodmizer, reduces the cut faster and I cut a lot of large logs . Also the cedar trees are odd shaped , makes edging so much easier . I use the mill to edge and anyway of reducing the workload is great . 🇨🇦👍
@@ishure8849 I was sawing green hemlock , 8x12s . Thirty inch 16 foot logs , they were so heavy I couldn’t turn them so I used a jack . When the timber’s were finished I drug them off the mill with my pickup . 👍🇨🇦
@@ishure8849 my dad used them to build my sisters house , he always over built . We’re in snow country , 75lb per square foot , snow load . If you don’t build it tough it won’t last . 👍🇨🇦
Hi. I have watched a few of your videos. I would suggest a slightly improved hybrid approach. I cut the top same as you and turn 90 degrees. Cut down to where you want to cant. Then I turn 90 twice ( 180 ) and now you are cutting into a clean face every board down to where your true resaw cant is. Stand up and resaw. I always start my cut in the top rather than the butt whenever possible too. Not as important with a push mill as opposed to the power feed mills but it makes breakdown planning easier and the blade is entering a narrower face. I would love to have those nice fir logs. Cheers, Buzz
You could also rotate 90 deg. the opposite way. On my old Mighty mite I use a level or sometimes framing square to make sure the 1st cut is plumb. A bit tedious but only one cut enters the bark. I admit that because it is tedious I rarely do it. Years ago there was a manufacturer that used that principle. Might have been Timber Harvester but out of business now.
When I was a kid my Dad and his business partner had a Mighty Mite. I hadn’t thought of turning it the other way. Maybe something to do sometimes on a really dirty log.
Turn the head of the mill around so the blade enters the log on the stop side, you would only have 1 cut entering dirty bark using the 90 method, just have to make sure that the log is dogged tight because the blade will be putting lateral tension on the dogs
The 90° always seemed to me to be better - but someone told me, 180° is better if you have a lot of tension in the log. And: it depends what kind of lumber you can use - sometimes you want to have live edge on both sides, whereas if you want to trim the boards, its much easyer, already having one straight edge
Love your videos, I don’t have a mill, never ran one… but if your fence clamps were on the other rail your blades would only enter bark on the first cut or two, flip the log 90 degrees and your blade enters on the clean sawn side, also enable your blade roller guide to be adjusted closer to where the blade meets the wood. Wachathink?
We were talking about that some on the live stream last night. The Easy Boardwalk mill is that way. On this one the adjustable blade guide would have to be switched to the other side. That would take some structural modification. Otherwise it’s an appealing idea.
This dude has an honest heart. Though he had very different opinions to Eric, he took his advice to check it out. That's a 'big' man, IMO. But I would like to say, why don't you build a shed with those flitches?
Excellent analysis of the methods! I would like to know what effect it has on the grain of the boards that result... the 90 deg method makes me think of quarter-sawn lumber, which is supposed to be superior? Which method results in straighter boards over the long term?
I still use the old Alaska chainsaw mill, so after my first cut I'm always cutting into clean wood. Solution to this problem, modify mill bed stops and guides, flip log to the other side and have clean wood. Yeah only works for 90 degree turns.
I have been bandsaw milling for 10 yrs. I found that the shape of the log depended on my turning it 90 or 180 degrees. No log is perfectly round and is quite often egg shaped.
Couldn't agree more. I run an LT40 HD and use either method depending on the log shape and sometimes depending on what I need to get out of the log. When I need larger dimension pieces like beams and posts out of logs that are borderline big enough, turning 180° often gives me a better idea what I can get out of the log.
Could try grinder w one of those very course grinder blades like for tree carving , and run down the log where the blade is going to cut thru the bark , it would beat an axe 🤷🏼♂️👌🏻🤘🏼🤘🏼
I have one of these mills. Mine is portable. Lookin to upgrade. Gotta 100 acres to saw. Electric winch w ramps makes getting logs on the mill easy. East Tennessee. $12k
Being all your logs are dirty, you might be happier with a dedicated 50-60cc saw with a log wizard to debark the cut line. Faster and easier than an ax.
I just picked up a log wizard. wouldnt the log wizard blades then need frequent sharpening? is the tradeoff sharpening an axe vs sharpening the log wizards 2 blades vs the bandsaw?
@@vikingtrad3r A 4th option would be using a circle mill instead of a band saw, because those teeth don’t dull as easily. There’s always trade offs. The log wizard will get dull faster than the ax because it does more work faster. No matter which option you pick, dirt dulls sharp blades. That’s why commercial mills have rotary log debarkers as part of the operation. Those don’t get dull.
Yeah I think the flat edges on them would really make the table saw good for that. Especially good if I wasn’t just out in the woods without electricity. Good to see you on the live stream.
My experience has been that turning 180 gives more precise 90 deg angles, and the blade stays sharp longer because you don't enter the bark as much. Exit bark doesn't really seem to make a difference. I've never cleaned the bunks when turning, but mine don't seem to get that dirty.
Being a broke down old carpenter, no experience making logs into Lumber have dealt with some Lumber in the past I had to be straight line ripped go through the thickness planer stuff like that but not much of that I was more commercial work. However, thought entered my mind, cleaning the dirt sand whatnot, perhaps, not all-time broad axe that would probably be just way too cumbersome but an old fashioned hatchet as big as you could find the belt on one side and with a little offset to The Cutting Edge with the b e v e l on one side of the cutting fart, could be handy . And how about how big is you could find the heavy duty wire brush? I'm sick of editing this voice to text but you get the picture
Hacking away that dirt....you need one of those offset axes used for hewing. The "bent" axe head gets close and saves your knuckles...can even square things up for a cant
I turned the saw head 180dgs on the track so after the first cut the blade is always entering the wood from the fresh cut (clean) side... blade stays sharp longer... I thought holding the log tight against the stops might be a problem as the blade would be pulling the log away from the stops but no problem so far.
I have a crowbar that works well as a bark spud for peeling the bark off of logs. I only peel them when the bark is loose. When it is tight like these ones are I have found it to be quicker just to take a few seconds to hack off the spots with an ax.
On Mark Galicic circular sawmill the cants don't go thud when he turns them they go boom, kind of like how they go boom when you cut them down. Come to think of it, I thing they go boom because the cants on his sawmill are bigger then the cants on your sawmill.
Mabe some day you can try a mobile dimension sawmill. And get the experience of 9 times. Out of 10 not needing to do any log turning. A completely different milling experience.
I've always been a 90 degree guy except for real small logs which I cut everything into flitches and edge them. I haven't been able to figure out why some people find 180 to cut more accurate. The only reason I've been given is that the clamping strength on hydraulic mills push it out of square. If that's the case, I don't see how 180 would be different. The only thing I see different is with the 90 degree method, you're clamping against the curved part of the log whereas with the 180 method, you're clamping against a cut face. In both methods, there's a cut face up against the side supports, a rounded face sitting on the bed, and you still need to clamp. If your side supports have so much slop they can't hold true to the bed, I just don't see why either method wouldn't result in accuracy issues. Unless maybe the mills in question do a significantly poorer job holding a curved surface compared to a flat surface? I've never had a problem with my LT40HD, but it's the older flip style clamp. Also, have you tried not worrying about cleaning the exit side of the log? We never do. I've always thought it's unnecessary. Dirt can easily exit on that side so I don't think it has nearly the impact on blade life as the entry side. Might save you a little extra work.
Yeah a lot of times I don’t clean the exit side. I just clean them off on logs like these that in some places have a half inch thick layer stuck to them. It would be an interesting test to see if that amount of dirt actually makes a difference or not.
Mr. Wilson my hubby disagrees with you and Mr. Eric Jarhead, so I asked why. He said there is never a rule of thumb to a sawyers endless thinking. They're all crazy !... at least that's what he said .
Sawing threw bark is hard on blades to extend the life turn your log opposite the way you did it that way your clean cut will be out an your blade will be cutting into your fresh cut keep that threw the entire cut saves life of your blade an you don’t have to keep chopping the dirty bark off
Maybe if you wash your logs first you wouldn't need to scrape all that dirt off, lol. You also need a longer handled broom. From watching you work I still think you original method of turning 180 degrees but since I'm not the one running the mill I would say do it how ever you like doing it.
Hmmm, turning logs on the mill 90° or 180° ...? As with ALL things Woodland Management, IT DEPENDS! It depends on the log, the mill, the sawyer, the flitches... It all depends. Cheers from your neighbour in Linn County
Why make flitches why not cut the slabs off turn the log 90 slab and turn 90 slab and get a nice square kant and the. Mill the board to size what ever you want. What is the advantage of making boards you have to cut teice or three times.
I wanted a sawmill my whole life. This is therapeutic for me
So agree never managed to justify buying one.
Me too!!
You're getting there! Wait until you figure out how to cut, turn cut, turn cut cut cut, turn and mill to the deck 😊
I may need to skip that last turn and mill to the deck for at least a while. Hold out one bastion of stubbornness for a while before I go that far and take it all the way.
@@WilsonForestLands lol you will rarely mill 180 again but sometimes it is useful
TH-cam channel 'Project of the day' about a year ago addressed the turning issue with a great reason to do 180 degree turns and that is after a 90 degree turn more weight of the log is putting pressure on the dog side of the mill due to the offset weight after only one cut. Especially on the lighter mills it can be enough to unsquare or twist the mill itself. Even if no twist, it is still a lot of weight on the dog side. With a 180 turn there is only down pressure/weight on the bunks. I would say you were doing it more correctly from the beginning. 'The Old Man and the Saw' also does 180 turns. Just saying you aren't alone.
I haven't tried using the 90 deg method but after watching your video I'm going to give it a try. I particularly like the thought of having the toe board inplace for the first 2 cuts, rather than removingit for the 2nd cut and then forgetting to replace it for the 3rd cut. Also, having one staight edge on the flitches is probably going to have a major impact on how much I enjoy edging those.
Me thinks that with an offset hewing ax head, you may have an easier time with the 'cleaning' of these logs. You may get a more precise angle of attack to get to that dirt faster, thus saving you time and effort. Just an armchair thought whilst watching this great teaching video. Thanks for your channel and the laughs as well. Many thumbs up Michael!!
The flitches having a straight edge is a MAJOR advantage. I've been doing the 180 method on my Norwood LM30 because I was having trouble keeping the can't square when I did the 90 method. Now that I have more experience, I'll go back and try the 90 method again. Also, just watching this, it seemed to me you might get one more flitch out of a similar long with the 90 method. I cut 1x4's too...
Well, I just tried it and I still prefer the 180. I've got a system down that I know where I am at all times and don't have to worry about the log stops and the log dog as much. I'll keep an open mind, but for now, I'm sticking with the 180 method. Plus I don't have to worry as much about getting my can't square.
For me it’s not a huge preference between either of them. They both have advantages and disadvantages. I think the 180 does make it easier to keep things square.
Wouldn't the 90 rotation only make sense if the open cut face was turned toward the side of the sawmill that the blade enters the log?🤔
I generally turn 90° because centering the heart is my least favourite step in milling a log. I'm a cabinetmaker and the OCD in me wants to be within an ⅛" or less from end to end on my LT40. On larger diameter 16' to 20' logs that can mean several trips up and down the mill bed with the cutter head. Once I have my first two slabs off I'm off to the races without having to worry about any more toe adjustments. I tend to turn my logs frequently to take the tension out of the log evenly. Both methods have advantages depending on the shape of the log and what type of dimensions you are trying to get out of it.
Using the 90 degree method is faster and easier than the 180 degree method but is accurate only on small to medium logs. For boards less than 6/4 a 90 degree edge isn't so critical since the board will usually undergo further processing. On large logs, or when milling 6/4 and thicker lumber, where a true 90 degree cant is required, I prefer to turn 180 degrees and then use a square for the third turn. This ensures a 90 degree cant corner; which ensures square framing lumber.
Dave The Square
Good info Dave. I haven’t tried the 90 yet on large logs. I think on large logs I might run into the same problems I was trying to describe in my video about 180.
We generally turn the logs 90 degrees at a time if for no other reason it seems like less wrestling of the heavy logs. Plus the flitch advantage I never really thought about before, but most of them have a straight edge.
I took to the 90 degree turning on my woodmizer, reduces the cut faster and I cut a lot of large logs . Also the cedar trees are odd shaped , makes edging so much easier . I use the mill to edge and anyway of reducing the workload is great . 🇨🇦👍
@@cameronhamer9432 G'day Cam, how are you going old mate ? I can't roll my logs with a cant there to heavy so I swing the blade instead. Ishman 👍.
@@ishure8849 I was sawing green hemlock , 8x12s . Thirty inch 16 foot logs , they were so heavy I couldn’t turn them so I used a jack . When the timber’s were finished I drug them off the mill with my pickup . 👍🇨🇦
8x12 what are doing with those ?
@@ishure8849 my dad used them to build my sisters house , he always over built . We’re in snow country , 75lb per square foot , snow load . If you don’t build it tough it won’t last . 👍🇨🇦
Hi. I have watched a few of your videos. I would suggest a slightly improved hybrid approach. I cut the top same as you and turn 90 degrees. Cut down to where you want to cant. Then I turn 90 twice ( 180 ) and now you are cutting into a clean face every board down to where your true resaw cant is. Stand up and resaw. I always start my cut in the top rather than the butt whenever possible too. Not as important with a push mill as opposed to the power feed mills but it makes breakdown planning easier and the blade is entering a narrower face. I would love to have those nice fir logs. Cheers, Buzz
had to get a piece of paper and draw that out but now i see it and i like it :) I'll try it next time I'm on the mill
Thank you for sharing your experience🥰🥰🥰
Excellent video, laughed through the video. Too late, Eric probably already watched this.
Yep he did, my secret is out.
You could also rotate 90 deg. the opposite way. On my old Mighty mite I use a level or sometimes framing square to make sure the 1st cut is plumb. A bit tedious but only one cut enters the bark. I admit that because it is tedious I rarely do it. Years ago there was a manufacturer that used that principle. Might have been Timber Harvester but out of business now.
When I was a kid my Dad and his business partner had a Mighty Mite. I hadn’t thought of turning it the other way. Maybe something to do sometimes on a really dirty log.
Turn the head of the mill around so the blade enters the log on the stop side, you would only have 1 cut entering dirty bark using the 90 method, just have to make sure that the log is dogged tight because the blade will be putting lateral tension on the dogs
this mail is not made to do that without some major fabrication and redesigning I cover that in the follow up video to this one.
Thank you . Enjoy your content. Those were some pretty logs to mill . Nice truck in the back ground.
Great content Mike, and I enjoyed the live show last night. Looks like 90 degrees works better on the Mill? I think a Mill shed would be a good idea.
Can you put a de barker on your model of saw? I see some on other woodmizers. They help a lot with saving blades.
No they are not available on the LT15. They are on the bigger mills with all the bells and whistles.
The 90° always seemed to me to be better - but someone told me, 180° is better if you have a lot of tension in the log. And: it depends what kind of lumber you can use - sometimes you want to have live edge on both sides, whereas if you want to trim the boards, its much easyer, already having one straight edge
Maybe I'm learning how to mill lumber or just watching good video thank you
he must be the first one in centuries of Milling to try this
Hi, Great Vid, Question Do you worry about the Heart Wood, cut it out or mill it into boards?
OK… l’m with you… whatever way you go!🤪
Very good and meaningful video, thank you
Love your videos, I don’t have a mill, never ran one… but if your fence clamps were on the other rail your blades would only enter bark on the first cut or two, flip the log 90 degrees and your blade enters on the clean sawn side, also enable your blade roller guide to be adjusted closer to where the blade meets the wood. Wachathink?
We were talking about that some on the live stream last night. The Easy Boardwalk mill is that way. On this one the adjustable blade guide would have to be switched to the other side. That would take some structural modification. Otherwise it’s an appealing idea.
This dude has an honest heart. Though he had very different opinions to Eric, he took his advice to check it out.
That's a 'big' man, IMO.
But I would like to say, why don't you build a shed with those flitches?
Excellent analysis of the methods! I would like to know what effect it has on the grain of the boards that result... the 90 deg method makes me think of quarter-sawn lumber, which is supposed to be superior? Which method results in straighter boards over the long term?
I still use the old Alaska chainsaw mill, so after my first cut I'm always cutting into clean wood. Solution to this problem, modify mill bed stops and guides, flip log to the other side and have clean wood. Yeah only works for 90 degree turns.
I have been bandsaw milling for 10 yrs. I found that the shape of the log depended on my turning it 90 or 180 degrees. No log is perfectly round and is quite often egg shaped.
Couldn't agree more. I run an LT40 HD and use either method depending on the log shape and sometimes depending on what I need to get out of the log. When I need larger dimension pieces like beams and posts out of logs that are borderline big enough, turning 180° often gives me a better idea what I can get out of the log.
Could try grinder w one of those very course grinder blades like for tree carving , and run down the log where the blade is going to cut thru the bark , it would beat an axe 🤷🏼♂️👌🏻🤘🏼🤘🏼
I have one of these mills. Mine is portable. Lookin to upgrade. Gotta 100 acres to saw. Electric winch w ramps makes getting logs on the mill easy. East Tennessee. $12k
Being all your logs are dirty, you might be happier with a dedicated 50-60cc saw with a log wizard to debark the cut line. Faster and easier than an ax.
I just picked up a log wizard. wouldnt the log wizard blades then need frequent sharpening? is the tradeoff sharpening an axe vs sharpening the log wizards 2 blades vs the bandsaw?
@@vikingtrad3r A 4th option would be using a circle mill instead of a band saw, because those teeth don’t dull as easily. There’s always trade offs. The log wizard will get dull faster than the ax because it does more work faster. No matter which option you pick, dirt dulls sharp blades. That’s why commercial mills have rotary log debarkers as part of the operation. Those don’t get dull.
Go demo I think it’s all up to the Sawyer preference.
I do mine a 90 and like we’re I don’t have as many flitches.
Don’t have as many flitches, that is speaking my language.
With doing the switches at a 90 you might consider running them threw a table saw for edging ...I find it easier for me anyway
Yeah I think the flat edges on them would really make the table saw good for that. Especially good if I wasn’t just out in the woods without electricity. Good to see you on the live stream.
Thank you for sharing love your channel buddy an English man watching from France lol
My experience has been that turning 180 gives more precise 90 deg angles, and the blade stays sharp longer because you don't enter the bark as much. Exit bark doesn't really seem to make a difference.
I've never cleaned the bunks when turning, but mine don't seem to get that dirty.
Being a broke down old carpenter, no experience making logs into Lumber have dealt with some Lumber in the past I had to be straight line ripped go through the thickness planer stuff like that but not much of that I was more commercial work. However, thought entered my mind, cleaning the dirt sand whatnot, perhaps, not all-time broad axe that would probably be just way too cumbersome but an old fashioned hatchet as big as you could find the belt on one side and with a little offset to The Cutting Edge with the b e v e l on one side of the cutting fart, could be handy . And how about how big is you could find the heavy duty wire brush? I'm sick of editing this voice to text but you get the picture
Hacking away that dirt....you need one of those offset axes used for hewing. The "bent" axe head gets close and saves your knuckles...can even square things up for a cant
I turned the saw head 180dgs on the track so after the first cut the blade is always entering the wood from the fresh cut (clean) side... blade stays sharp longer... I thought holding the log tight against the stops might be a problem as the blade would be pulling the log away from the stops but no problem so far.
I wondered what it would take to do something like that. I will have to take a look at my mill and see if it’s even feasible to do that on this one.
That device you use to flip the logs off the trailer. Last time I saw something like that people were yelling at me on the beach "tharr she blows !!"
Mumms the word,I promise not to tell Eric (for a small fee)LOL.Great video and keep em coming
Too late, he already found out. 😁
It’s the new hat! It has your numbers mixed up 😊
That could explain a lot. 😂
Have you considered getting a bark spud for getting dirty bark off the logs?
I have a crowbar that works well as a bark spud for peeling the bark off of logs. I only peel them when the bark is loose. When it is tight like these ones are I have found it to be quicker just to take a few seconds to hack off the spots with an ax.
I've never used one personally, but have you ever tried using a bark spud to get the dirty bark off? 👍🍻
Not a real bark spud. But when the bark is loose in the spring and peels off easily I have a crowbar that makes a pretty good bark spud.
I will keep your little secret!! But Erik is pretty good at knowing I am hiding something!!! Good video!!
Too late he already found out! Someone must have squealed.
I am no expert by any means, but why not turn the log to where the bark is on the exit side if the blade aft you make your 1st cut.
Nice
Hat!
On Mark Galicic circular sawmill the cants don't go thud when he turns them they go boom, kind of like how they go boom when you cut them down.
Come to think of it, I thing they go boom because the cants on his sawmill are bigger then the cants on your sawmill.
Always ending with a 😊
Mabe some day you can try a mobile dimension sawmill.
And get the experience of 9 times. Out of 10 not needing to do any log turning.
A completely different milling experience.
Think I’d power wash the bark before milling.
But, the shades and hat are way cooler than not having them.
I've always been a 90 degree guy except for real small logs which I cut everything into flitches and edge them.
I haven't been able to figure out why some people find 180 to cut more accurate. The only reason I've been given is that the clamping strength on hydraulic mills push it out of square. If that's the case, I don't see how 180 would be different. The only thing I see different is with the 90 degree method, you're clamping against the curved part of the log whereas with the 180 method, you're clamping against a cut face. In both methods, there's a cut face up against the side supports, a rounded face sitting on the bed, and you still need to clamp. If your side supports have so much slop they can't hold true to the bed, I just don't see why either method wouldn't result in accuracy issues. Unless maybe the mills in question do a significantly poorer job holding a curved surface compared to a flat surface? I've never had a problem with my LT40HD, but it's the older flip style clamp.
Also, have you tried not worrying about cleaning the exit side of the log? We never do. I've always thought it's unnecessary. Dirt can easily exit on that side so I don't think it has nearly the impact on blade life as the entry side. Might save you a little extra work.
Yeah a lot of times I don’t clean the exit side. I just clean them off on logs like these that in some places have a half inch thick layer stuck to them. It would be an interesting test to see if that amount of dirt actually makes a difference or not.
Could you pressure wash the logs before you mill them?
That’s what I do
I don’t really have a water supply in the woods where the mill is. But if I did a lot of milling I might get set up with something like that.
Mr. Wilson my hubby disagrees with you and Mr. Eric Jarhead, so I asked why. He said there is never a rule of thumb to a sawyers endless thinking. They're all crazy !... at least that's what he said .
That is probably something we can all agree on.😁
oh my God you must be the first one in centuries to come up with that idea
You wear that hat well.
90° does seem the general more efficient method, granted, what do I know.
get yourself a Debarker and a leaf blower - or maybe a pull-knife
Sawing threw bark is hard on blades to extend the life turn your log opposite the way you did it that way your clean cut will be out an your blade will be cutting into your fresh cut keep that threw the entire cut saves life of your blade an you don’t have to keep chopping the dirty bark off
I’m just not sure how well it’s going to clamp in turning at the other way. Or keep things square. I will have to play around with that though.
I put some thought into this and I'm at a loss of words.🤷
You already named the Wilson flip. Now I threw another cog in your wheel. I’ve just been making life difficult for you lately.
The 90 degree is a lot better if you ask me
What kind of wood is that?
Douglas fir.
Whats that sticking in my throat ? Its 90 degrees ! :D
I’m still a 180 guy…..
More accurate cuts for me
I've tried both ways also, found 180 to be better on my mill
Why not have an air or water hose to clean up logs prior to entering the mill.🤷♂️
I don’t have a source of water out in the woods where the mill is.
Maybe if you wash your logs first you wouldn't need to scrape all that dirt off, lol.
You also need a longer handled broom. From watching you work I still think you original method of turning 180 degrees but since I'm not the one running the mill I would say do it how ever you like doing it.
Hmmm, turning logs on the mill 90° or 180° ...?
As with ALL things Woodland Management, IT DEPENDS!
It depends on the log, the mill, the sawyer, the flitches... It all depends.
Cheers from your neighbour in Linn County
That’s what a lot of life comes down to. It depends. Then we hope we don’t have to start wearing them some day.
@@WilsonForestLands Indeed.
First thing I would do, is get that thing off the ground.
👍👍🪵😁
What if you turned the log 45 degrees?😂
I own a ta schmid sawmill its all manuel for me everything. So i know that 90 is best way.
Why make flitches why not cut the slabs off turn the log 90 slab and turn 90 slab and get a nice square kant and the. Mill the board to size what ever you want. What is the advantage of making boards you have to cut teice or three times.