CLACK WS1 WATER SOFTENER VALVE Disassembly, Troubleshooting Tips and Tricks
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Do you want to learn how to disassemble, reassemble and troubleshoot the Best Water Softener Valve in the business! Check out this great Live Stream event of ours to learn all of my tips and tricks and you’ll learn all about the event starting right now!
Check out my CLACK WS1 Water Softener Valve Teradown, Rebuild and Troubleshooting Tips & Tricks Live stream Replay.
Check out my Playlist here • Clack WS1 Water Soften...
LOVE GARY THE WATER GUY AND WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WATER FILTRATION FOR YOUR FAMILY? HERE ARE SOME NEXT STEPS!
1) SUBSCRIBE www.youtube.co...
2) LET’S CONNECT!
/ waterestore
/ waterestore
/ the-water-filter-estore
/ water_estore
/ waterstoremidland
3) CONTACT!
info@WaterEstore.com or info@WaterStoreMidland.com
4) SHOP!
Midland www.WaterStore...
Canada www.WaterEstor...
USA www.WaterEstor...
Please share this video • CLACK WS1 WATER SOFTEN...
Please comment or ask questions below. #garythewaterguy #watersoftener #waterfiltration - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![🎤 จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.1] (2/2) เพื่อนจับได้คำไหน..ต้องร้องคำนั้น เริ่ม! 💓🎶 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1bJvMJXmeS4/mqdefault.jpg)
Gary, thanks so much for making these videos. I have this exact head, and knowing how to disassemble and service it provides me with peace of mind.
Glad to hear! Please share with friends and family.
@@GarytheWaterGuy Of course! Lots of people in my neighborhood have this head for their well filter systems. I'll send them here!
Your generosity in creating these videos, even though they obviously support your business, means I will send anyone I can your way. You saved me so much frustration with your clear to follow instructions.
Thank you that would be very kind of you, we really appreciate any support you can provide.
Thanks Gary for helping guide me through tearing into my softener. I haven't figured out what's going on with mine yet but as I scroll through the list of comments, I'm amazed that you've responded to everyone!!!! You are a servant to society. Thank you.
Glad to help, I try to get back to everyone eventually. Please share video with friends and family.
@@GarytheWaterGuy Will do.
I am from england and normally work on fleck, softners, had to do a sevice kit on a clack for 1st time, watched your video and completed the service kit replacement in 10 mins. So many thanks carl .
Ive now subscribed
Great to hear! Please share video with friends and family.
Thank you for your videos on water softeners! I fixed ours, which hasn't worked for at least 6 months. I really appreciate informative videos. I am mechanically inclined, but had no idea how it worked! I do now, and even showed my wife! By the way, I am 75 years old! Thanks again!
Glad to help! Please share with friends and family.
Thanks so much for all your great videos. My water softener (with a WS1) had stopped using salt and the display was "stuck" on 1411 gal. I emptied all the clogged-up salt in the bottom of the salt tank and replaced the meter. It was easy thanks to you. You also gave me the confidence to try to fix it myself.
Great to hear! Please share video with friends and family!
You are really helpful! I can notice the extensive knowledge, and I wanted just to thank you for these videos. These are great!!! Thank you Gary!
Glad you like them! Please share with friends and family.
Great video. I had my WS1 installed 2.5 yrs ago. A couple of months ago I noticed it has a slow steady constant waste drain. I just followed up today searching how to troubleshoot this myself. At 11:05 you explained the symptom, cause and repair precisely. I followed your teardown instruction and found 2 ragged crumbling Orings in the seal stack. Parts are now on the way. In a few days I won't be wasting water 24/7.
Yes, 100% correct.
Hi Gary, thank to you very helpful videos, I have been able to replace my piston/spacer stack after I have received parts (very quick by the way !) this week, such a easy task that saved me hundreds $ in plumber services. I have very hard water from my well, I wanted to start fresh after I found a leak on my floor. However, even after the replacement, there are still drops leaking from the white gear during regeneration. When I removed the spacer stack, I had to clean buildup inside, but there seemed to have lot of buildup towards the drain (whole in the top toward the front). I tried to remove the most I was able carefully with a flat screwdriver, but when the valve is draining water, there is a sound that make me think the drain line might be clogged as well. I will soon have a look to it (in the meantime, I secure everything with a funnel/drain line to avoid leak on my floor). My question : can a clogged drain line be enough to create pressure and make leaks from the cap/gear assembly ? Would it be a good thing to replace that part as well (I don't see that part on your estore) or once I will clean my drain line everything should be fine ? Thanks !
Definitely, if the drain line is clogged that would be the outcome. Fix the drain first to see if that solves the problem. If not, emailus on the parts you need and we can get you pricing. info@waterestore.com
Woao, I’m from Venezuela but currently alive in Spain, and searching a job I find this, every day see this valves and you gave me some tips can I use on work, thanks and I hope can we to exchange problems and solutions…. Sorry for my bad English I just learning to… 😂
Glad I could help
Thanks Gary really appreciated I’m watching you from Saudi Arabia, very informative video .
Thanks for watching! Please share video with your Saudi friends and family.
I'm watching so I can better understand that contraption in my water closet. This is a wonderful service you offer and thank you. All these devices look essentially the same--makes me think they are all made by the same company (3M?) and sold under different names.
I'd find it helpful for a video on the different madia types and how to change/add.
Thanks again
There are only a few manufacturers but 3M is not one of them. Yes, many water softeners are the same valve with the water softener sold under various different names. Thank you for the video topic suggestion. Please share the videos you like with friends and family.
Gary!!! You saved me a few hundred dollars this time, and be from now on I can maintain it.
Thanks for the education you gave me!
You're welcome. Please share video with friends and family!
Excellent tutorial. You make a lot of comments in passing that fill in typical and critical gaps in knowledge. Thanks for being so thorough. I feel confident that I can put in a new spacer stack and drain elbows now on two WS-1 units I have set up as softeners and are leaking out the drain - - though I wish I'd ordered the removal, reassembly tool to make it easier.
Glad it was helpful! Clack tool is here waterestore.ca/products/clack-ws1-valve-disassembly-wrench-v3193
You did a great job presenting my friend. Well done. Your presentation was quite helpful.........even 2 years later!
Thank you. I believe the content will be useful for amny more years to come. Please share video with friends and family.
Thank you so much! Very good video with a plethora of info about this valve. Great tutorial!
Thanks for watching! Please share video with friends and family!
I just got a sytem from Eric Hassam in Nova Scotia. He is as enthusiastic about the Clack as you are. I am pretty DIY, so I will be checking out your videos.
Please do!
Amazing - Many thanks, sooo helpful and thoroughly explained.
Glad it was helpful! Please share video with friends and family.
@@GarytheWaterGuy I certainly will ! You really are doing a great service helping us all out.
Many thanks......All the way from London.
Great stuff! Very informative.
Despite the fact that you had the power detached, it continued to keep the time. That is because there is a coin cell: 3 volt lithium 2032 according to my manual. You surprised me by not mentioning it.
I have two of these on two tanks, all installed before I bought the house. Both use salt tubs. The one that comes second acts normally from everything I can tell. But the one that gets the water first, what a mess. At the moment it has been doing regen for over a week. Yes, seven days. It gets to the BRINE step, with a 1 hour count-down, and just repeats for days and days. This time may be a record, sometimes it is just a day or two. That tank is sort of translucent and I can see the level of the water. I put a piece of tape at the low point - which is where it spends its time. Early in regen it will fill to the top, but mostly it is at the tape or within an inch or two above it.
No question I need to get a service guy in!
I used the Next button, mentioned in the video, to get the problematic unit to finish its week-long regen. After a couple of days of using water I noted that the gallons remaining was still at the initial 1200 it always shows at the end of regen. But now I knew where that was measured, that little wheel inside the left side of the unit! Why not check to see if it is free to turn? So I turned the two re-arrow handles valves that cut off the water in/out, bypassing the unit. And began loosing the cover to the whee. PHHHTTTT!!!! Water sprayed all over me and generally around everywhere. I had a rag ready as I knew water would drain out, but under pressure? Then I remembered that the tank under the unit had a big head of air! That air was under the same pressure as the well tank next to it. I could have expected that but I didn't. Thankfully it was just water, no big deal. Oh, and the wheel spun freely.
I'm sure that when I venture to open the injector cap it will all happen again. Or perhaps if I close the INput, leave the OUTput side open, and then run water elsewhere in the house the pressure in that tank will release before I open it up.
An interesting lesson in any case. 8-)
Yes, before you open anything you need to start a regeneration cycle and bypass to relieve the pressure.
Hello Gary great videos I’ve been troubleshooting a dripping noise in my media tank for months. It is on a water softener stay with the WS1 clack valve. I was told to replace my stack assembly and will do that once I receive the parts thanks to your videos that built my confidence of doing it myself. Is there anything else that could cause this dripping noise? I want to do everything and replace any other parts while I do this work. I will be replacing the pistons and injector as well as the stack assembly Are there other O-rings or cleaning I should replace or do?
That is exactly my problem and will get the tool and parts and do it myself. Thank you very much
Great! We have them here waterestore.com/products/clack-ws1-softener-rebuild-kit-wrench
Very informative video. Fixed my error Code 102. I used an oil filter wrench to unscrew it. It worked perfect.
Glad it worked. Please share video with friends and family!
YOUR GREAT GARY, THANK YOU FOR ALL THE INFO. VERY NICE OF YOU TO DO
My pleasure. Please share videos with friends and family.
Thanks Gary ...excellent video, very comprehensive and clear.
Glad you like it. Please share video with friends and family.
Thanks Gary for sharing such a great informative video! you are the man!. I appreciate the dedication you put on your channel. Thumbs up!
Glad to hear you liked it! Please share with friends and family!
High Gary. Thanks for your great videos. I’m wondering if the the clack ws1ee twin alternating valve is very reliable. I use softeners for iron and hardness and wonder if their have been any issues with the mav part of the valve. If so is it easy to service? Sorry if I’m on the wrong topic
Thanks Don.
Yes, it is very reliable. I have many cusotmers with it and only ever repalced one that burst when it froze.
I have an issue with the meter Gallon remaining\gallon per minute don't change at all while I use a fosset. It happens everytime when I have a power outage. It freezes the remaining Gallon at that moment and when the power comes back, it will show me whatever the remaining gallon that was before the power outage. But after that I don't see the "softening" or the Gallon per minute changing or poping. Last time I did a full regen cycle and it did come back. Then, I had another power outage two days before and it did the same pattern (showing me the last gallon remaining and not showing "softening"). I did pop out the turbin meter and did clean it gently with a small towel and a Qtip. But is there something that I need to do instead or it's broken?
Thanks for making these videos! They are excellent! The only thing you did not cover is how to change the backup battery. Is it a typical CR2032 and can you change it with the power still connected. Thanks again Gary!
Great tip!I'll p[lan it for an upcoming video. Unplug, slide the battery up and out.
Hi Gary, great instructional videos. I have a Clack Tanin filter that after regeneration sometimes leaks, not always. What remedy do you recommend?
Gary, we have a Clack water conditioner that we suspect is malfunctioning and would appreciate if you could offer your insight. Symptoms are that the washing machine in the utility room (with the softener) in the basement was taking a long time to fill (low flow). Likewise the shower in the ensuite bathroom located in the 2nd story was exhibiting similar condition. IE: when the water was turned on (single handle Moentrol valve), the water coming out of the bathtub spout was normal, but within a minute, it slowed considerably. Both the supply lines to the tub/shower and to the washing machine are soft water lines. My wife put the Clack into bypass mode, and voila, she had full flow to the washing machine, and the shower had full flow as well. Today, I put the Clack valve back into service mode, and while we haven't done any laundry, the tub/shower returned to low flow again. I'm deducing that the Clack is somehow restricting water flow in the service mode. Having watched this entire video, I couldn't see any obvious repair that would remedy the low flow. Is it the Clack valve? or is it it the tank with the media?
PS: great videos, Gary!
Sorry to hear, check out the advice in this video th-cam.com/video/tCQQxiT-zoc/w-d-xo.html You might need to repalce the media. It is not the valve, it is the media in the tank.
@@GarytheWaterGuy Thanks, Gary. I have replaced the media, and cleaned out the crap (mostly iron) in the basket (filter) on the riser tube and the cone filter, and the guts of the Clack valve (injector, injector screen, pistons, and the stack assembly). And success! I have full flow, and after a week or so of running the house in bypass mode, the softener is again providing soft water. I wouldn't have been able to finish this project without the help of your videos. You really are providing a public service. I now know more about my softener than I ever wanted to, lol. Two thumbs up!
What would you do if a customer was complaining of water from a softener (with similar valve) tasting extremely salty? Would lengthening or shorting cycle time be a potential fix? Loved the video. My coworker and myself followed along with a valve we took off an old unit. Very helpful
Great question! This video will help you toward the end th-cam.com/video/Lr3jyGiJdC0/w-d-xo.html
@@GarytheWaterGuy thank I will check it out
Thanks Gary for the outstanding service you provide.
Curiosity question: How does the motor know at which point to stop the piston after re-assembly? Do I need to pay particular attention to how far the piston is in or protruding when re-installing, or will the motor know where to stop for the correct position? And how does it do that?
Klaus from Sunderland, Ont.
Great question. At the back of the circuit board in the tan cover there are a series of disks that are read by the circuit board. They read where the motor is and tell the circuit board.
Thank you enjoyed
Great video Gary! I'd like to see a video on changing out the media inthe tank.
Coming soon!
That’s actually a good topic. I’m sure mine is due to be done.
Gary, how would you troubleshoot a slow leak into the brine tank? This is during the normal (softening) state of a Clack WS1 softener. I've already replaced the injector (red), spacer stack, piston and brine piston. Thank you so much for your videos - I've learned a ton watching your breakdowns and you've given me the confidence to try to fix my (new to me) softener!
Normally what you did. Are you sure there isn’t a slow leak from the drain or brine line
LIFE SAVER! Thank You Gary!
Glad it helped! Please share video with friends and family!
Tanks Gary for your videos, it really helps a lot.
Glad you like them! Please share with friends and family.
Just a couple of comments…..if your running an air over water system with a metered value the recycle “softening” mode should be set instead of the filtering mode. Second the stack assembly removal tool is designed to bring the the assembly out straight, not scoring the o rings in the assembly by uneven pressure.
I don't recommend using an air over media water system (typically used for iron or h2s removal) in the metering mode. Maximum time between regen (or air draw) is 3 days.
@@GarytheWaterGuy well the one you just took apart was metered and in the filtering mode.
Thanks so much from Saskatchewan home of the super Iron water
You're very welcome. Please share video with friends and family.
this guy know hear job , very good
Thank you for your comment! Please shasre video with frineds and family!
Hello guy great video. I am wondering I am getting large amounts of salt coming through the conditioner. What would be causing this?
Could be a number of things, check out this video th-cam.com/video/3GQWpqlLBps/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for the videos and the information!!
Glad you like them! Please share video with friends and family.
I wish plumbers were as nice and honest as Gary
Thank you! I wish everyone was! Please share video with friends and family!
Hi Gary can you help please, do you have a video on how to setup a programme a Clack WSC1 Softener please.
Sure, right here th-cam.com/users/livec6r7qUK8to4
Gary- I followed all instructions: reset my water softener, followed through instructions for the setting for pressing (and holding “next “ and “up”) and then have tried multiple times to review settings for “next” and “down”, but it doesn’t do anything. It won’t give me the menu for holding the two buttons down. I have the 5 (one row) button softner . Thanks in advance
Did you check to see if it was locked? This video might help th-cam.com/video/bU3wW29R7iE/w-d-xo.html
Awesome video, thanks so much for doing this! We got notified the other day by the water company of 'unusually high usage', which turned out to be 20k gallons of water over the 2k we typically use in a month! I believe I've traced that down to our water softener, which has this WS1 head. It's always discharging water down the drain tube! I've turned the bypass on to stop it, and my hunt for information led me to your video. I feel confident I can disassemble it now, but am wondering if that's something you've seen or that makes sense to you? I'm guessing it's a gummed up part (one of the pistons? I was expecting more valves in this thing, but those seem to be the only things that can get gummed up?), and my plan is to see if I can just clean things out and hopefully call it good. If not I'll be ordering some parts from you, thanks!
Yes, I have seen this although it is more prevalent with iron filters. You will need to replace the pistons and seal pack waterestore.ca/search?type=product&q=clack*%20pisto*
Gary, great content! I’m learning a lot. With your ratings I upgraded to the ws1. It’s working good. Only problem is the water is still slightly yellow. Could this be due from the remaining residue from the old system? The water was almost brown previously. Thank you!!
Could be the media beads need to be cleaned. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/c8QKYr3B02I/w-d-xo.html
Gary, thank you for the great video. i am actually in sarasota. i have one of these with all 5 buttons in a row (not offset like these 2 and 3 buttons on 3 of my houses, and also have the 3 button charcoal tank basic rinse version.. I ran my 5 button salt softener through the manual regeneration cycle and it did fine, however the meter never shows any gallon usage. it is set at 40 grains hardness and 7 days regen and after it goes back into softening mode it shows 1200 gallons remaining and after 2 days of water usage it still reads 1200 gallons remaining before regeneration. any idea what i need to do? thank you so much in advance for your professional information.
When you run water in the house the word softening should be flashing at the top left, does that happen. If not, the meter is not working. We have the replacements here waterestore.ca/products/clack-ws1-meter-assembly-v3003 If it is working it could be the programming, it is included in this video th-cam.com/video/c6r7qUK8to4/w-d-xo.html
Gary, I have error code 102. My regen button does not work. How do I relieve the pressure before taking the unit apart to inspect for a dirty filter/piston?
Shut off the water going into the softener, open a faucet downstream, then shut off the water after the softener and proceed.
I have a 10yr old ws1 based system on which the media seems to be almost exhausted due to excessive iron. There is now a dedicated iron filter installed, so the iron issue at the softener should be done. I was going to replace the resin and was wondering if I should just rebuild the valve at that time. By rebuild, I mean tear apart, clean and replace o-rings. I am on a well so no chlorine degradation issues. I am not having any issues with the valve currently
Yes, I definitely would because the spacer stack and pistons are likely quite worn from the iron. We have the kit here waterestore.ca/products/copy-of-clack-softener-rebuild-kit-wrench
Thanks everyone for watching! Any questions?
Hi Gary, great instructional videos. I have a Clack Tanin filter that after regeneration sometimes leaks, not always. What remedy do you recommend?
@@dariocompain6049 where is it leaking from?
@@GarytheWaterGuy It leaks from the drain line. Very small leak as if it was just emptying the water residue in the line; however, it does not stop. It only does this every three to fourth regeneration cycle. The way I stop the leak is by shutting off the water supply, and releasing the air pressure. Once the air pressure is out I reopen the water supply and there is no leak.
@@GarytheWaterGuy It leaks from the drain hose. Does not leak always. After the third or fourth regeneration cycle. Small leak as if the water that leaks is residue water left in the drain line from the regeneration cycle. I close the water intakes and release the air pressure and the leak stops so I can turn the water supply back on.
@@dariocompain6049 you will need to replace the pistons and seals, this video shows you how th-cam.com/video/WIa033n4OQE/w-d-xo.html
This is excellent! Thank you for taking the time to post it. How is the service interval reminder reset?
I really do not know as I never set it to operational. The frequency is different for every application so I recommend not using it and just call for service when your water softener malfunctions.
What about a business like ACE OR LOWES who keeps there salt outside. Will the weather brake down the salt and not work as well?
As long as there are no holes in the bag it will be fine.
Hi Gary! Thank you so much for your video! I have a few questions for you.
1. I have read that you should never lay a softener on it's side as it can damage it.
a. Is this not true?
b. Is it really safe to lay on it's side?
2. Is there any chance water would start to mold in the tank? Can you really just place it back in service and start using it again safely?
Yes, you can lay it on it’s side, we have been doing it for over 20 years. No mold, but if you want to you can run some chlorine through it just in case
That's great! Ok thank you so much! Do you happen to have a video to show how you would run chlorine through it?@@GarytheWaterGuy
Thanks sooo much for your informations from Germany...
Thanks for watching. Please share with friends and family.
Man this valve was designed by an actual real-life engineer being this easy to disassemble!
It is great!
Gary Thank you thank you! Why do seal pack start leaking? I am in SW Florida. My unit is under 3 years old and I had to replace it. Seal pack had some mineral buildup on it, but wasn’t super bad. I barely could take it out due to some buildup around it, so first 2 seal sections came out first, then I got the rest of seal out. I probably could use the tool you never used lol.
Yes, I too had to use the tool I never use yesterday. IO need to talk more about that tool and make it available to everyone!
very usefull!!!
Glad you think so! Please share video with friends and family.
Gary, thank you so much for putting this video out. I have the 3-button head on a backwash unit throwing an E2 code and found you searching for a solution. Many 'guys' want to sell the installation of water treatment but do not want to service once installed. YOU ARE A LIFESAVER. You mentioned your US shipping is from Sarasota, FL, do you have a physical store there as well or just distribution?
At the moment our only physical location is in Midland, Ontario in Canada.
If it’s drawing no brine.. I should replace that valve? I’ve already double checked everything else. Thanks!
You would need to troubleshoot, as outlined in this video th-cam.com/users/liveLr3jyGiJdC0 It could be something as simple as cleaning the injector.
I have a WS1 with a solar 4 button head that when the battery is charged fully (externally), the display comes on every 5-10 seconds and flashes error 101. It also makes a sound like it’s trying to do something. Then after a few minutes with the battery plugged in, the display will not come on at all. The battery when charged externally has about 7.4V output. I made sure the motor spins freely and is not binding.
Not sure about the solar 4 button head but typically these systems are 12 volt
Hi Gary, thanks for the video, truly helpful. I have one white injector (yours was blue) and a gray plug. The injector is inserted in the opposite hole where you showed it, and the gray plug in the other hole. Does it matter which hole to insert in the plug? Just want to make sure there is no install error.
Great question. The location of the injector and the plug is based on whether the water softener is being used as upflow or downflow regeneration.
@@GarytheWaterGuy I just noticed that my valve is marked up flow, the injector is inserted in UP hole, but the screen says it’s configured as DOWN brine.. I managed to change the configuration from OEM to UP flow to match the valve type. Do you recommend UP flow or DOWN flow brine? Thanks for everything!
Hi, looking for help.
My softener has a slow trickle even after replacing the seal pack, the regen piston, the down flow assy and the drive cap assy. at the end of regen it closes the piston off fully, then backs off a bit. I tried manually adjusting the piston using the drive cap assy (manually moving the drive gear) to see if it would shut off, but it never fully stops the trickle. If I bypass, no drip.
Thanks for any help!
Dave
You replaced the brine piston too, right?
Hi Gary, my name is Anwar and I am located in Germany, I have a simple question regarding the Clack WS1, on the circuit board there is a Battery CR2032, when should this battery be replaced, and is there any thing that might go wrong? Thanks in forward for your time, I appriciate your work here.
They usually last about 5-7 years. Just pull out the old and replace with the new
@@GarytheWaterGuy Hi Gary, thanks for the quick answer, I am running a Clack WS1 assembled on an Iron filtring tank. The system I use adds potassium to green Sand, and is in operation since 4 years. I am just going trough your VIDEOS to understand the system in order to maintain it by my self. Thanks for the great job that you are dooing here, I really appriciate it!!😃
Great video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Please share with friends and family.
I have a WS1 with my water softener. Lately, it has been using very little salt. Following your suggestions, I cleaned out the brine tank and cleaned the injector. After a regen, the brine tank salt level dropped about two inches, much less than it normally had. Do you have any suggestions as to what else I can try? The system is 11 years old and I'm on muni water with hardness of 15. Thanks.
Is is sucking out all of the brine during the regen cycle? If not I would replace the injector. We ahve them here waterestore.com/search?q=clack%20injector
Our water softener keep leaking at the drain connection during flush cycle. At 25:35 you show a brass fitting with straight connector. Our plumber used a similar plastic fitting with an immediate 90 degree elbow that then connects to the plex. It leaks past the teflon tape on the 3/4 screw on connection.
Previously he used rubber instead of Plex and that leaked where rubber was clamped to connector (jubilee clamp) and eventually split the rubber.
Is there too much pressure coming through from the drain connection, maybe a sudden surge of pressure at the start? This is just a normal soft water setup HOWEVER the drain pipe goes up to 2nd story and half way up the 2nd story wall where it curves down to a drain in the 2nd story laundry room next to the washer H & C supply pipes.
Again, just wondering if this pressure rise is too much for fittings
We use this brass fitting all the time with drain lines that go up without issue. I would make sure that it is connected with teflon tape and pipe dope.
I have this same Water softner installed, about a year ago, I find it constantly says "Fill Salt" but when I look in the tank there is about half filed tank of salt (18") and its just over the water. I have confirmed there is salt all the way down.
Someone has programmed that setting into the valve, it is a pain and we never use it. This programmin video of mine shows you how to shut it off th-cam.com/video/c6r7qUK8to4/w-d-xo.html at about the 24 minute mark.
Yes we have rust we have iron eater before water softener the people that installed it said not to use iron out or anything in brine tank and is there anything that would help keep it clean and the iron eater also I know you said hydrogen peroxide but how much fluid at what interval thanks any info will be pleased
What are your trying to keep clean?
Thank you that's good information
Thanks for watching, please share video with your friends and family
Gary, My ws1 unit was not using salt. I checked for obstructions in drain line, injector and float. I manually started a regen cycle. During regen, there is a leak, it appears to be leaking toward the top of unit..difficult to see but between the drain line and meter feed. There is a gasket that seems to seems to run along top of unit...separating discharge, fill and injector bay from main unit. Problem 1 is the leak...Could this be causing the fill tube to not operate properly? Thanks Anthony B
Yes, if there is any kind of leak during regeneration the system will not draw brine. Fix the leak and likely the water softener will start working again.
Great video, thanks! Are there any differences between the resin vessels and riser pipes with upflow and downflow regeneration?
No, the difference is in the valve not the tank.
@@GarytheWaterGuy Thank you very much. There is not that much info regarding upflow and downflow regeneration. Why would one use downflow regeneration providing water pressure does not exceed 3.4 bars (so it does not lift the beads) and correct tank size is used for the valve. I believe Clack valves can do both upflow and downflow regeneration?
Hi Garry do all was-1 spacer stacks have a o-ring for the threads. When I disassemble it there was no seal there ?????
Sorry not sure what you mean. You can always email us pictures at info@waterestore.com
What would've been really useful--before I snapped the axle on my drive cap assembly tonight--would've been knowing that the downflow piston does NOT come right out of the drive cap as depicted in this, and in other similar, videos. The two ends of the downflow piston are keyed IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS. No amount of threading/unthreading of the drive cap made any difference in my install, the downflow piston would not budge, and now I'm ordering a new drive cap assembly because of it.
Leaving this less as a critique of the original video, and more to warn people that the drive cap axle is plastic and delicate and one should presume that the outbound keying is the OPPOSITE of the keying for the brine piston.
I'm not exactly sure why this would happen, as I've never heard of anyone else snapping the axle (piston rod) while doing this (and it's never happened to me), but yes the piston rod is quite small and could easily be snapped so I agree to be careful. Thanks for your comment.
My brine tank is full. My brother in law is a plummer. He was out a few months ago and put a new injector in it. It was doing the same thing then. So pulled the injector this time and cleaned it with a torch too cleaned and cleaned everything up with iron out. It still isn't working, he said he would have to pull the cage. He's busy and hasn't made it out yet. How would I do that. Oh, the I rings look good too.
This video explains exactly how to pull the cage. But, that may not be the problem, have you checked out this video yet? th-cam.com/video/ZdA0aI1q22w/w-d-xo.html
Hot it, bad I ring. Thank you!
Great video. Thank you so much.
We have water leaking out of the side port of the drain elbow. Is this due to a clog in the drain or something else?
Added info: I placed the system in bypass and hit the regen to reduce pressure to stop the leak. First regen just increased leak but I could also hear water in the drain pipe indicating it was not clogged. At least not completely. I selected regen again and it appeared to stop the leak. I have it unplugged and would like to remove the elbow. Thinking it needs to be replaced due to a failed vacuum breaker???? Thank you for any help!!!
You need to replace the elbow. We have them here waterestore.ca/products/clack-ws1-drain-elbow-v315801?_pos=144&_sid=b59d53c7e&_ss=r
The elbow requires replacement. We have them here waterestore.ca/products/clack-ws1-drain-elbow-v315801?_pos=144&_sid=b59d53c7e&_ss=r
@@GarytheWaterGuy thank you. I had been trying to find that part in your store. I will add that to my cart. I am purchasing many other parts as I suspect our high iron content water is degrading the piston/oring stack too. Still struggling to release the pressure so I can remove the elbow. But if I can’t I will have lots of towels ready. Our water has scary high iron content and having the water softener running is the only way to enjoy decent water. The media filter before the softener doesn’t take it all out.
Thank you so much for all you do to help do it yourselfers like us.
Is there a way to cycle the WS1 so it regens and then back into service, if the electronics aren’t working?
No, there isn’t
I have a clack water softener and when it regens it’s extremely loud while it’s draining water. Sounds like the water coming out is under lots of pressure and/or mixing with air. Is this normal? If not, what’s likely wrong with it?
You must have a very high flow rate of water, but yes, this is normal during the backwash cycle.
My unit is the WS1TC with 3 buttons. I have an E2 blinking error. Will not regenerate. Plumber not responding.
This video should help th-cam.com/video/v_oF5w5dB1U/w-d-xo.html
Replaced seal pack. Now once in awhile I get extreme salt brine in the water. My whole house water is salty..Unable to see anything wrong.
Could be partially clogged or compromised drain line
Can you do a video for a 765 hydrotech control valve??
No plans at this point. I work with Clack valves.
this looks like my WaterRx HS-1? Can I purchase a new control board from your store?
Sure we have them here waterestore.com/search?type=product&q=clack+circuit
Hello Gary,
Thanks for this video. I am in Casa Grande, AZ (between Phoenix and Tucson) but I am a Canuck like you. 1) What does a white or a blue venturi (jet pump) insert mean. Mine is a white one a full size tank. Yet, you show a blue jet also on a full size tank. I am confused. Also, I have a plug and a jet pump both in the valve. On the plug it says UP on the housing and on the white jet pump it says DOWN on the housing, You have not addressed this in this video. Since I have not installed said unit myself and hence do not know whether it ever was correctly installed, I would like to know a little more, please. 2) How does the motor know at which point to stop the piston after re-assembly? Do I need to pay particular attention to how far the piston is in or protruding when re-installing, or will the motor know where to stop for the correct position? And how does it do that?
The correct injector color depends on the size of tank and what media is inside the tank. If your system is setup for downflow brining the plug goes into the UP hole. For upflow brining the plug goes into the Dn hole and the injector goes into the Up hole.
I have a DuPure Softener but it looks just like the same valve as the Clack WS1 except the front cover. Is DuPure using the Clack WS1 and putting there name on it?
Likely. In the video it shows you how to identify a Clack water softener.
I have a Waterite H2O softener with a "Fusion2" valve. Is it similar/same as the Clack that you describe?
Yes, it is Waterite uses Clack WS1 valves, the same as our HUM Water Softeners waterestore.com/collections/water-softener-1?pf_pt_product_type=System
Thank you!
Hi can you help me ? i have clack WS1, my problem is that the water is leaking about 3 cm from the top of the container, there are also two plastic grooves along the entire length, can this water leak be removed?
You can email us a picture of where it is leaking from. info@waterestore.com
Im receiving error 102. I dont know if is because of the freeze we just had. I wanted to tear it down but when i place the valves in bypass and press the regen button for 5 seconds, i dont hear any air come out. Do you happen to know why?
Ther should not be any air, just water. This video should help th-cam.com/video/v_oF5w5dB1U/w-d-xo.html Something likely stuck in the valve.
Hi Gary, I currently have a Gold Valve Phos block system with a board I can not find a replacement for. The screen is blank and the filter is in non-stop regen. It is currently on bypass. Would it be difficult to swap the valve with a clack ws1 ?
I really do not know. It depends if the tank has the same thread as the Clack WS1, and the drain line flow control is sized correctly to match your requirements. Typically better, when the valve goes to replace the whole thing.
Have a water leak between main brain and tank were is treated
This video will help. th-cam.com/video/2pZEc_f8l-w/w-d-xo.html
Great video Gary. I have two Clack WS1 Valves which have been programmed by a water filtration company no longer in business. It's reading that it needs to be serviced (flashing yellow). How can I reset it for 12 months when I'll get it serviced by a new company ? Thanks
Sorry I really do not know, I never use that feature.
Gracias
Glad you liked it. Please share video with friends and family!
Hello Gary.
I hope you can help me. I have a Whirlpool water softener. I left the salt in there for over six months without it being used. When I finally hooked it up I noticed that the salt was solid rock hard. I put treatment down there and ran it over and over and over again with no luck. I did clean out all the salt and put fresh salt and did the cleaner over and over and over again And it looks like it’s just not doing anything. I only filled it to the first level of Salt to see if I had any luck. Not sure what to do at this point. Is the unit trash or not? I think it’s the Whirlpool 33000-Grain Water Softener model.
Sorry to hear about your concern! Did you run it through a cycle to see if the water level in the brine tank slowly drops during the brine cycle?
Gary the Water Guy yes a bunch of times. Also, put whirlpool cleaner and Iron OUT
@@TheEastCoastSensation does the brine level in the water softener slowly drop during the brine cycle?
Gary the Water Guy no sir
@@TheEastCoastSensation So that's your problem then, it is not drawing brine. Try cleaning the injector.
Gary. I have a 5 button clack set up as a sand filter and the board works but the valve says it is back washing but no water comes out the drain Has an N on the cap and on inspection the hole was full of sand like particles. I tried to clean it and wash the debris out but When I hit the regenerate button the motor makes noise and you can hear the noise but still no water comes out. It is set up identical to the other Clark I have which makes the same motions but water comes out the drain. What do you do?
Do you sell just the 12 inch tanks and the media for them and the sand for the filtration tanks
With the freezing Texas one of my tanks has a leak in it and if I can get this clock to work I’d like to replace the tank with new filtration materials thanks a lot for the information JimD
Likely the piston is no longer connected to the motor. This video should help th-cam.com/video/rWh1r3idZm0/w-d-xo.html Yes, we sell media but not the tanks waterestore.com/search?type=product&q=media*
How about drain gpm size restrictors
The system has a built in drain line flow control.
What is the best way to clearout the channel from the brine elbow to the brine injector cap area. It looks like a cleanout plug is on the side on the inlet. Any specific tool.
Sorry, I don't know and have never tried.
Can this be set up for backwashing with clean water? I operate water small and community water treatment systems for a living, and I have found that backwashing with finished water makes the media as well as the moving parts last much longer. I have the FOB filter similar to what you are working on in the video.
No it cannot.
Hi Gary, my Clack WS1 has 5 buttons in a row. What is the difference between your WS1 with 2 rows of 3 and 2 buttons. Is your programming video of your version applies to my WS1 with the 5 buttons in a row as well?
Yes, it does. This video explains the programming of the different models including yours th-cam.com/video/c6r7qUK8to4/w-d-xo.html
My watersoftener started sending black water after any regeneration cicle atleast for 20 gallons, what that could be 😢
A partially clogged drain line could cause this
Gary, is it safe to assume that all of the tanks are the same but the components used to either introduce O2, cycle flushes, and the medium make the difference?
Yes, it is.
Gary, we get a strong salt taste in our water the next morning after Regen. Is there a setting I can make on the Clack SW 1 5 button valve. Thanking you in advance.
You can increase the backwash and rinse time after the brine cycle.
Hi Gary can you show how to start after a electricity went out
Just press down and hold the regeneration button for more than 5 seconds, after it starts, let go.
@@GarytheWaterGuy thanks Gary the co.that igot it from they don't even answer the tel and give us no service.ihave being thinking about calling the news and repot them i finance it cost me aver 3000. + DOLLARS. YOU TELL me what should I do a thanks for your help.