DIY 3D Printer Build Experience (I) // Mechanical Assembly // RatRig V-Core-3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- Skip to 04:33 if you just want to see the build timelapse!
Last video I showed you my war-room for building a DIY 3D printer, and in this video I actually started building the thing. Learn about DIY 3D printers and what goes into this crazy hobby.
==Video Links==
- (Prequel) Build Video Part 0 - War Room: • Ever wonder what goes ...
- Official RatRig Step-by-Step Mechanical Assembly Video: • Rat Rig V-Core 3 - Ste...
- Vector 3D channel full assembly recorded stream: • RatRig V-Core 3
==TIMELINE==
00:00 - Intro
01:14 - Voron vs Ratrig
02:05 - RatRig Info
03:20 - Build Steps
04:33 - BUILD TIMELAPSE!
13:59 - Closing Thoughts
#ratrig #3dprinter #3dprinting #vcore3 #diy - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
That’s really interesting and a good find. Even being really careful and slow I’ve blown wood out like that with a regular drill.
My RatRig is closing in on a 1000 hrs of printing. Did the 3.1 upgrade and the machine is a tank. Love it.
Loved the 'stuck in the middle with you' photo 🤣
I started building the same vcore 3 (3.0) 8 moths ago. Was great fun building it. At the time I could fire it up got a new job.. so now there is an unfinished project. Bought the 3.1 upgrade and will disassemble the build and rebuild it soon following the 3.1 guide. Just to get every piece just a bit better squared and spaced (the electronics plate to the back frame). Really enjoyed watching your video and recognize the almost despair when looking at the pile of corner plates and bag full of screws and nuts, also the linear rail and bag of screws 😮. But overall loads of fun building it and eager to finish it and get it up and running.
I know, those corner brackets really should not be in Step 0, you have to do all that tedious work and feel like you don't even get credit for it because you're not even on Step 1 😆 It's a great machine, and I'm glad I got the 3.1 upgrade before I started building it. I missed out on "Enclosure 2.0" but I finished this enclosure and it's ... meh, good enough.
If you're not familiar this video was widely cited on the discord for how to make sure your frame is square (and which parts are important and not): th-cam.com/video/h7ZTq2dDTkM/w-d-xo.html
Safety tip: if you can't hold the part in such a way as to not drill towards your hand, then don't hold it in your hand at all. When it comes to small parts, attaching it to a surface, possibly gluing it to a sacrificial piece of wood then clamping it to a surface is the best move.
What are you going to use to power the printer? A Raspberry Pi or something else?
Good tip. It was a painful lesson to learn and still have a scar 9 months later.
The RatRig is run by a BTT Octopus and Raspberry Pi. RatRig publishes a custom version of Klipper (printer firmware/software) called RatOS . I'm excited to try it out and will include my assessment of it in one of my next videos. Based on the docs and discord discussions, it looks pretty streamlined.
Thanks for making this video, perfect length for a good overview 👍🏻 really well done and I’m looking forward to the other ones.
That's quite a project! And entertaining to watch :) Please be more careful.
Thanks! This injury actually happened 9 months ago, sorry I didn't make it clear in the video. I'm generally a pretty risk-averse person, but I guess we all take shortcuts occasionally, and not all of them are harmless. Glad you enjoyed the video!
@@ObsessiveEngineering Haha, there was another small one in the video ;) And that was all before the wiring where things can get... shockingly exciting 🔌🌩
Awesome build videos. As I need an increasing number of large, although almost flat, parts printed in nylon, the 500x500 version with an enclosure looks like the best option, wired for 220v. I'm tired of importing printed parts from China, and this should pay for itself quickly.
Thanks! I should mention that I have been printing a lot of large flat parts in ABS & ASA, and have actually run into reverse warping. Instead of corners peeling up, part turning into a taco, it prints totally flat, but must have some kind of internal stresses, because as soon as I pop it off the build plate (after 1 minute, or 1 day), it immediately bows upwards in the middle. This is with 250C nozzle, 110C bed, and 55C-60C enclosure. See this:
www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/14eqmk2/
I bring it up because nylon is even more difficult to control the warp. Some nylons are better than others, and I'll be releasing a video soon comparing a bunch of different printable nylons (and a couple nylon-likes). A carbon-fiber-filled nylon is way easier to control, but I still consider it more difficult than ABS/ASA. I'm actually a little bit at a loss for what to do, besides simply switching to PETG or PETG-CF for large prints. In this case, the enclosure is making it possible to print the part, but it's not warp-free. Just thought I would throw that out there as a word of warning. I'll also let you know if I figure out a way to mitigate this issue.
@@ObsessiveEngineering I'll watch for that. The parts I'll be printing need to be solid up to at least 200F, and compatible with immersion cooling fluid, so polycarbonate or nylon seem like the best choices for sealed battery boxes.
@@hallkbrdz Focus on polycarbonate then. Nylons technically handle temps like you're talking about but only under no-load conditions. They will creep/stretch quite a bit if under load at elevated temperatures. Nylon-CF and Nylon-GF are quite a bit better and worth experimenting with, but I think polycarbonate is probably a better choice overall
that's really great!
Glad you liked it! More coming soon (-ish)
Hi will be starting the build on self sourced parts and was wondering what gauge of wires are used electrics ? apart from the motors as you can buy that loom off ratrig
Oh boy... now I have to wait to hear more about EVA
Soft spoiler - there's nothing really wrong with EVA itself, it was just a unique combination of factors & errors that made it a nightmare to put together. Stay tuned for more details!
Nice work!
I wonder if the AI part of the channel will play into this project.
Ironically, I originally started this channel to do AI and engineering educational/project stuff. But both my 3d printers broke around when I started this channel and for a couple months couldn't do some of the things I had planned. So I've been focusing exclusively on 3d printer stuff for now. I've obviously had a lot of fun doing it but I will be broadening the scope of my videos a bit once I finish this RatRig. I don't think I'll be doing any AI stuff with the printer hardware itself, but 3d printing will remain an integral part of my projects going forward 😁
Might I suggest an ES15 for general purpose screw driving of non construction sized bolts and screws? I say this as I just hit the stabby part with the t-handle
Beautiful job, soon i will built one vcore 400mm and your video is very helpful..... Question, can you tell me the length of the x axis linear rail? I am looking to upgrade it from the beginning with a mgn9. Thank you very much i will waiting for another video
You can find all those specifics in the bill of materials (BOM):
v-core.ratrig.com/bom
The extrusion for the 400mm V-Core-3 looks like it is 522mm.
Thanks for watching! One more video in the series is almost done 😃
@@ObsessiveEngineering thank you very much for your respond....i am waiting for your videos
Hi, I'm looking to buy a ratring and I can't decide between the 200 or 300 mm size.
The power consumption just jumps through the roof between them.
And do I need to source the power supply by myself. The 250W seems quite low...
i wonder if the bigger bed size should come with a thicker build plate as thermal expansion aswell just general ease of warping the bed can be easy
I don't think it makes a huge difference. The plate is SOLID and making it bigger would increase it's thermal mass taking more time and energy to heat it up.
I see a lot of people in the RR community obsessing over bed warping and expansion. I have spent very little time messing with it, and the difference in Z between the middle and the edge (~280mm apart) is a whopping 0.42mm. I don't know what I could print that that slight warp would matter. Material shrinkage of most materials would dominate that term.
The only thing that would affect would be the first layer adhesion, but with automatic mesh bed leveling, the printhead movement will adapt to that shape anyway. I've never had a problem with adhesion being inconsistent across the plate.
Btw I don't want to discount this general effort to get better bed flatness, but for me the default behavior is sufficient. If you don't have mesh bed leveling, it would be a totally different story.
@@ObsessiveEngineering Hi Alan, your explanation make perfect sense, and i agree if you dont have mesh bed leveling 0.42mm would be a huge challenge but we do! and yes definitely bigger thicker bed will take much longer to reach it targeted temperature than a thinner one. The reasons i bring this up, is bec i been recently working on vibration tester equipments and we have been looking into changing into thicker mounting plates to improve their flatness and also ofcourse more uniformed and consistence predicatable vibration results.as we had issue where the orignal mounting plate has warpped over time as rigs get bolted on and off and that thing is already 15cm thick. So i though in relation to printer bed where it ideal to have bed as flat as possible, should the bigger the bigger the bed be made with thicker plates as it is easier to bend and warp especially the 500*500 size
@@8bits955 that's super interesting. Is the warped shape of the plates actually changing the frequency response of the system? Given that the RR bed is unconstrained it probably wouldn't make a difference there. But if it's bolted down I could imagine the deformation warping the frame of the machine and that could definitely have an effect
One year later, built a corexy from scratch. Still trying to get the firmware burned. Both x and y move together. Any help will be appreciated.
Not sure how much I can help through the comment section, but I should mention that there's a lot of great Discord communities with people who are really knowledgeable about this stuff. I find the RatRig discord to be pretty good for these kinds of discussions, and they have an #other-printers channel where you could ask about non-RatRig printers
Look up rolohaun and vez3d
Figure it out?
Wondering whether there's a "dual X-axis motors" switch turned on.
Or something like set to Cartesian instead of CoreXY so it doesn't cancel out motion on one axis with the other.
Or simply one of the motors has one of its wire pairs swapped so it's running backwards?
I started day dreaming about this, but then you said 25 hours just for the mechanics and I dont know anymore.
It is definitely a major investment of time. And some risk that mistakes are made and you have to sink more money and time to get to the end. I think it's part of the fun, but it's not for everyone. It took me about 35 hours to get to my first print, and I've been casually tweaking and refining/modding things over the last week to improve it further. It's definitely a hobby, and not something I would recommend if you're more interested in printing than tinkering. I like both so I had a good time building it, and now I am enjoying having a crazy fast, crazy big printer 😁