@@rickjones2534 your pipe or foot valve is cracked down in the well. It's just leaking all the pressure back down the hole. Pull pipe out! Look for cracked plastic and holes & inspect the check valve, a rock can be stuck in the oring sometimes
Bro, I cannot thank you enough. I had resolved to go get another well pump to replace the one I just put in 18 months ago and this video made me go check the pressure switch one last time and sure enough, one of the contacts had come loose and stuck the switch in the open position. I was SO happy to see that spring stuck in there. Thank you thank you thank you! Sincerely.
I have a jet pump system that was originally installed in 1967....in a small casing (2" or so). I've had to have the foot valve replaced twice and have a lot of the red iron in our water. I'm getting a lot of dirt and grit in the filters since the last foot valve was installed in the Spring of this year. I've got a new 86 gallon water pressure tank on order as the bladder in mine has started leaking. Thanks for the video and info!
This video answered my question. I appreciate you getting to the point with useful information. Looks like we’ll need to get a new check valve. Thank you.
Awesome explanation! Thanks for a better understanding of how it works. My old contactor burned the red wire from the pump. Melted in two and contactor stuck. I replaced the pressure switch and now my pump comes on at 40 but doesn't gain to 60. It doesn't lose pressure if it sits either. With that burned leg do you think it's possibly a pump issue?
I have a shallow well jet pump here in Florida. It is a bit different but some of this information is useful! I am receiving a new start capacitor today in the mail. My 1hp motor just hums. I have 240v at the motor but the old capacitor reads above the upper limit of capacitance on the capacitor and I have never gotten a spark when shorting across the terminals of the capacitor so I just ordered a new one. Strange thing happened yesterday on Sunday. An alarm went off on our sewer grinder and when the city's technician came she found the capacitor was bad and replaced it and the grinder motor started right up and you could see the waste material going down in the cylinder. Good to go literally.
We’ve got a deep well jet pump (two pipe, 1” drive line and 1 1/4” suction line) that we’re having trouble priming. The foot valve and ejector assembly is located in the river-in total about say 200’ away from where the pump is located under the house, with about 45 feet vertical head down to the river. The system holds pressure, but the pump on its own can’t get above about 25 PSI. We had an 20 year old 3/4 HP jet pump (metal impeller) that worked fine under these same conditions that we wanted to replace because it gotten to making a lot of noise. We installed the ejector package that came with the new pump, which is a Red Lion Model. Actually we had another brand in there to start with, but replaced that because of the priming problem, thinking it may be the pump. In watching your video it seems like a problem with the foot valve. Anyway, in talking with some other knowledgeable folks the distance should not be a problem. It’s the head that matters most. That the line friction would only amount to a couple psi difference in line loss. The lines do make a couple of coiled loops near the river (just to make sure we have enough tubing in case we need to cut some off).And like I said, on the old set up, when priming, I;d have to futz around with it getting the air out for a time or three, but it was really no problem. Now we can’t get it work for hell or high water. Any suggestions?
Not sure if you were able to resolve your priming but i have the exact same scenario and I was able to prime the pump with a 1HP and the pump run for about 1min 36 second to go from 30psi to 50psi. I'm happy with this but my issue is that if we take a lots of water the pump doesn't provide enough and I'm afraid to loose priming if I keep the shower running + washing machine and my wife does use the sink...... Not sure how to increase flow :/
Glad I found your channel. I purchased my home 3 years ago and it has a jet pump for the sprinkler system. The pump runs but does not prime. Even if I prime it it just loses pressure right away. I was told it has a bad leather seal and quoted $1200 to repair. I didn’t really bother with it before because it rains a lot here in Virginia Beach. I was wondering how extensive of a repair this is? If it’s not too difficult I might just do it myself.
You can probably tackle the job. $1200 is kinda high, id say $600 max to pull the line and replace a check valve. I'd call Around & get different prices. I believe that you have a bad check valve, must likely. My family was from va-b. Lived over in Point-o-woods & my dad used to work at pollards chicken In the 70s 😆
Great video!! 12 minutes that will save me weeks of troubleshooting! My father in law has an old everite 2 line jet pump connected to a 1/3 HP Dayton motor. He had a plumber install a holding tank but full pressure never returned. Now theres a loud grinding sound coming out of the pump (not the motor) I have a picture of the pump and motor if it would help. At this point it seems the plumber probably didnt pressurize the new tank properly but now it seems the pump bearings or something has finnally worn out and its time for a new 2 line pump and motor. Wed have to dig up a concrete pad to access the existing well so we're thinking a new pump rather then a submersible would be much less time consuming for our situation
This video was very helpful and discouraging at the same time. It sounds like my problem is in my well. It was cycling the other day so i shut the breaker off. I heard the water being released back into the well bit when I turned the breaker back on it only runs . I tried the priming process and can get above 20psi. I don't know exactly where the well is located. Would appreciate any advice you can offer . I also hope to find the location of my well because nothing has been done outside for many years.
Love your chanel so informative. I have shallow well maybe 35ft and a cheep 180w solar pump, works good after priming. But when I shut it off it loses prime. Can a put a check valve after the the foot valve to hold prime.?
Great video bud!been in the business a long time up here in Maine.you did a real good job explaining,especially the part about the Chinese pressure gauge!!
i've watched 10 videos - yours's is the best. i'd hire you to work on my stuff :-) I live next to a lake. I have a jet pump that's not working well - I've had the system for 30 years (?) Replaced the impeller once. My problems: 1) no water coming out of the hose. then, a few minutes later, water comes out. So I figure the pressure switch may be clogged, like you said - the swtich was stuck in the OFF postion and only turned on when the pressure got REAL LOW. 2) historically, I can leave the pump on full-time and it only runs when there's demand. it was running last night, with no demand. So I'm wondering if the pressure switch allowed the pump to stay off too long and it lost it's prime? so the pump was running dry? I think I'll be replacing the foot valve (in the lake) and the pressure switch (or flushing it) - also, I've a quick disconnect, where I remove the tubing into the lake for the winter (Minnesota) and I'll take that apart and grease / vasoline the o-ring - so I'm not sucking air into the system Sound ok?
I have a jet pump and the big freeze is finally over. Now I'm looking to prime my pump since it runs but no water. According to the video I only need to put water in the one section, is that correct? Thanks alot. Someone is coming tomorrow to do it but I'd still like to know how.
I’ve never worked on a water pump or system ever in my life, but you really clarified a lot. Thank you so much! I live in South Florida. One of the pvc pipes to my moms 1/2 hp well pump bursted in our garage and it was like a geyser to the ceiling. I have been rigging it to work for the past couple weeks, but I went ahead and purchased a ‘STA-Rite SNC-L Shallow Well Jet Pump 1/2 HP 115/230V’ and SpringWell’s ULTRA Whole House Well Water Filter Salt Based System Combo + UV Water Purification System along with a Spin-Down Sediment Filter. I have an existing pressure tank and like I said, I’m quite the novice. I’m just a bit confused on where the placement of all my units should be. It’s quite a big project, but I’ve been trying to study what I can and learn off of TH-cam. It’s just a bit difficult, because since I rigged my pump.. we’ve barely had any water pressure and my pump runs all day long (so I turn it off from the breaker since it would overheat for running 24/7.) I do have a secondary pump that pulls from our shallow well on the exterior (opposite of the garage pump) that fills into a huge tank that removes iron/ sulfur, but also acts as a holding tank for water, as well. Meaning the pump that bursted is the one that pulls from the water tank outside. Since I’m not well versed in this field, I’m worried I’ll mess this up somehow. I do however believe I’m correct when I say I can eliminate that whole part of the unit because it’s outdated and unnecessary with the new system I purchased. Therefore, my assumption is I can directly connect the new pump directly to my well and to my new system and it will work just as it did when using my system previous to the incident (if not better, of course.) The pumps are literally less then 2 feet away from each other, forgot to mention the outside pump is the same HP as the garage one too. Sorry for the novel and I’m sure you might not even read all of this lol, but I really am trying my best to not call a plumber and to learn to do this all by myself (and with help of TH-cam University!) I wouldn’t call myself a handyman, but I do try my best in everything. I’m pretty DIY inclined, does this all sound like too much to take on? If I have all the proper tools.. I wouldn’t see why I couldn’t replace something that’s already there and just add to it.. if I pay attention to all these kinds of tips and very helpful videos. Any insight is GREATLY appreciated. Regardless, I appreciate your time and wonderful content. Thank you, again!
Question: Will any leak from say a gasket in the pump prevent the pump from taking a prime? In other words not just a pin hole in the bottom of the well pipe as you mentioned. Long story but... I bought a property that has a surface mount pump that i think got clogged stopped sucking water continued to run and then due to bad wiring fried the breaker eventually and turned off. I removed the pump and impeller was gunked up with red mineral or clay. In the process i destroyed a gasket which lets it leak a little above ground now. Pump seems to run good but not producing any water, What i need to know is am i wasting my time chasing a gasket or is it a possibility the gasket will "seal" the vacuum and produce water with a prime? Like others say,,,, I learned more in one of your videos than 100 others, Im a fan. Subscribed and Liked.
I am watching this video as I am a plumber (with limited well and pump experience) and my friend has a pressure issue with his deep well jet pump. If we switch to a submersible would I just pull out the 1 1/4”line and connect to his 1” ? And is there a dual pitiless down his well casing or how does that connect?
I am hoping you can help. I recently installed a new pump. It will draw water but really struggles to get up to pressure. It will and does hold pressure. But the moment the float switch tells it to turn on, it will drop to zero and run extremely hard and loud like it doesn't have water but will eventually (5 minutes give or take) draw water and hold pressure. How do I keep it from dropping all the way to zero? It didn't used to drop that low. It used to keep around 20psi.
Good day to you. Thanks so much for the video. It's been great. If I may, I have about a 40--foot deep well. I replaced the drop pipes, put in a new foot valve in the ejector. Inside the house, we also put in a new water heater and pipes. The deep well pump has been primed. I see water spilling out of the hole on the pump where I put in water to prime it. But I still don't get any pressure. There are no leaks inside the house. The deep well tank is at 38 PSI. I also replaced the pump switch with a new one, but the pressure does not go higher than 12 to 14 psi. May I get your advice about this? Would be more than happy to send you payment via PayPal of Venmo. Please let me know. Thanks so much.
You need a valve on the out going port (between pump & tank). It's pushing water out faster than it can suck it in. So you need to close the valve 90% and slowly open it over 2 minutes & allow the system to catch up. Note: there can't be Any air leaks on suction side either. A jet pump can have a dozen possible problems (that's why I don't service them.) Even a skilled plumber can spend hours trying to prime it.
i imagine jet pump bore hole is too small to install a submersible pump in? I have things 2 check on jet pump[great video btw], its running constant, i turned off breaker then came upstairs to watch some vids, hoping its the pressure switch! have new larger pump and pressure tank to install if anything other than injector[i sure hope thats not what it is...i did get a great deal on property and almost 4yrs out of existing equipment but know it needs to be replaced. seeing as I already have the parts, would it still be cheaper or better in the long run to install submersible? i'm thinking would be huge $ to widen well hole for submersible? guess i'll find out monday lol
My well won’t prime. Almost then it burps air and I have to start over. After watching this video I’m thinking the ejector kit that the foot valve screws into. Note: foot valve is new. Thoughts?
great video...I have a question...I just installed irrigation . I just unplugged my pump to make some pvc cuts and connections and then plugged the pump back in...so I didn't close any valves...then when I plugged my pump back in I got an instant quick burst of water...now all a sudden my pump cuts on at 35 psi but will only run one spicket now and doesn't pump up enough to shut off until I close the spicket. if I try to use more than 1 spicket I barely get any water out of any of them...any idea on what I should/can do?
I'm assuming that it's a jet pump(above ground). It sounds like you have a air lock Trapped in the pump. Try bleeding off the air at the high point of the pump housing. Maybe a gauge or something you can crack open & let it weep under pressure while it's running
Your the newest video I could find I have a under ground tank I put a shallow well pump (jet pump) on the tank (1000g tank) haven’t had a pump on it over 5 years is it bad to let my pump run back to the tank to circulate the water with bleach to cleen the pump any help Would be greatly appreciated
I have a two pipe jet pump that only feeds my irrigation 6 zone residencial system and one hose bib. This spring i primed the pump using a garden hose with the motor off. The pump operates fine when the irrigation system or the hose bib is calling for water. Runs at 40lbs. When nothing is calling for water, the pump cycles about evry 90 seconds. If i close the ball valve on the discharge side that feeds the sprinkler system, the the pump cycles every 8 to ten minutes. I did find a leak on one of the two elbows under the ground where the pipe comes thru the slab the pump is sitting on and turns 90° to exit toward the well head . Any advice will be appreciated. I was going to install temporary check valves on the two pipes as they leave the pump just see if that stopped the issue but got cold feet.
We still run a Goulds Jet system here, but we take directly from a seep well on a river. And yes nothing by headaches. Brother just replaced the pressure switch because it wasn't cutting off. Now the pump isn't pumping any water as before it was still holding prime. I'm so over this system lol but he wont pay to put in anything else.
Love your simple video explanation. I have an old jet pump+tank for non-potable water on old summer cabin with old venturi/check-valve that we plop into the old lake. Did I mention it's all old? Pump+ pressure tank situated under cabin at 15' height head over lake level. Jet system seems to make sense due to height above lake and cabin plumbing pressure at steady state keeps pump/tank filled. If I replace the system, would you recommend something different or just a new jet system (pump, tank, 2 lines, venturi & check valve)? Also, Recommendations for new system (brand ect). Many Thanks. Harry
I'd hang a submersible pump in the water if you are close enough to run a wire down to it. Just slide the pump into a short 4" pipe to prevent trash on the screen
@@h2omechanic Thanks. Lake is shallow (3') sand bottom so we just strap the old foot/injector to a tire rim. I can probably get power to the lake. Can you point to one of your videos of how to install a submersible? Also guidance on brands/models for either submersible or jet.
I have a multistage jet pump with a 2" well casing that is sucking air somewhere. Well is down 50' . Do they make a submersible pump that will fit inside my 2" well casing pipe? The pump is about 45-50 yrs. old is a Flint Walling pump which lists at $1950.
Hey there. So glad I found this video. I have a piece of land with a well that I’m trying to get going after not being used for 15 years. There are two lines to thr well and drop in with a pitless valve. I’ve been shopping for a deep well jet pump because I’m certain that is what it was hooked up for, but is there anyway to take your advice and go with a submersible given it has a dual pitless that I don’t want to dig up?
Never seen a dual pitless. But id assume you'd still have to dig it up & cap the other side. Or maybe cap the pitless head if that's possible & then you can definitely hang a submersible in there. Hopefully there's wire going out to the well. If not, use the un needed pipe as a wire chase. But you'd still have to dig it up.
@@h2omechanic Thanks very much. I was thinking about this a bit after posting that question, and I'm questioning if I need to do anything with the second line. If it is a dual pitless, and it was a jet pump, then each line runs separately. Your comment in the video about the 1" vs. 1 and 1/4" is what really sold me on the submersible. If I just don't use the second pipe, and turn the first pipe into a direct line for the new submersible, that should work. I can dig a trench for the power. The water lines are quite deep (6 feet at well), and the electrical run in my county only needs to be 2ft. I'm trying to think of what just leaving the second pipe unused with the dual pitless will give me any issues with the submersible. Can you think of what it would need to be capped?
Hey again i love your videos and your knowledge is indeed priceless thank you one million times over. I just bought new deep jet pump replaced ejector foot valve and venture it will only build up to 35-37 psi my switch is 30/50 i filled pressure tank to 28 psi its holding prime pressure switch is new also. please help
@@dustinwarren3125 you have to have a tank. But not sure why you can build high pressures unless you have a lose clamp or fitting somewhere sucking in air
My pump just like this went out. So bought new and install. Primed and it initially went up to 53 psi but did not go higher or shut off so in fear of burning up pump I shut off . Manual said was set at factory at 30/50. Turned back on to adjust and now it just kicks on but no pressure. I have replaced everything in the well , jet pack,check valve and all pipe still can't get it to prime. Are there any trick in getting a air lock out.
This is the biggest problem with jet pumps. To force out a air leak, you need a hose from the neighbors and force water thru the system is the easy way. Or remove the elbow at the top of the well & slowly fill the pipe there.
I’m not sure if it’s something that is an easy fix but I have a f&w convertible pump (cpj05b model) at about 65-70 feet and it suddenly stopped pumping water. I had just started the washer and went outside and heard it running and thought nothing of it until 5-10 minutes later I noticed it was still running. I went inside and stopped the washer and turned the tub on and it was rusty brown and only had pressure for about two gallons and then it went to nothing. The last time I had issues with it, the pressure switch had got clogged so the first thing I did was switch it out. Only one I had on hand was a 30/50 (switching from a 20/40) so I also adjusted the tank. When that didn’t fix the issue I double checked the prime and other than a build up of sand (which was rock solid) it was full. At the same time I checked the pressure gauge and it to had build up so cleaned that up and just put that back to plug the hole until I got a new one. I also disconnected the discharge pipe and I pe texted that just for the chance of any build up in that but it was clear. Lastly I took the plug off the T to look at the pipe down to the well and it was filled to the top with water as well. There has been a couple times that if I tap on the T near the plug I can get about 2 gallons of dirty water before it goes back to nothing. The local well guy is 4-5 months out on calls so I’m just making sure I cover everything I can while I wait. I am assuming if the line is full of water that means there is no leak correct?
I started watching your videos because we're having a problem with our well system, our tank is empty and our pump kicks on for around 15 seconds until it builds up pressure at 63 but the needle drops back to zero when it shuts off and it doesn't hold pressure this gauge is on the pump, the gauge that is connect to the switch is on around 50. I thought the pressure switch was the problem but after taking the cover off I think it's something else I was wondering if you can help.
The foot valve on the bottom of the suction pipe is leaking. It's only supposed to allow water the flow in & then it closes when the pump shuts down. Yours is broken or stuck in the open position
Question: We just replaced the foot valve, injector pump, seal cap and pipe elbows on my well line. (We replaced the 2-line Jet Pump about a year ago). My plumber friend suggested we use PVC elbows instead of cast iron. My pit is about 4' deep. Last night we had subzero temperatures. Can't build pressure (sitting at 30 / 40) up to shut off (40/60). Pit has about 1' of water or more in it. Did we crack the PVC elbows?
@@h2omechanic Hi again. The PVC connections and elbows did not crack. However, our connection from the elbow to the 1 1/4 down pipe came apart. We put it back together and filled the pipes with water. Could not get it to pump water. Unless you have a better solution, our next course of action is to pull the pipes and check the foot valve. It is a new hard plastic (NPT) one that came with the injector pump. I may go ahead and replace it with a brass Foot Valve with a better screen. Any thoughts ???
@Kevin Marks I'm not a jet pump expert, so I can't point you in the right direction...that being said, I think your going in the right direction. Just look at every joint/connection closely!
@@kevinmarks6461 if one connection came apart, it's likely that another did as well. Going with a brass foot valve is not a bad idea. It will typically outlast PVC.
My pump stopped working after my electric went off for a few hours. Its humming but not turning on. Priming didnt work. Any thoughts? This pump looks like yours and i dumped the water in there but it wont turn on just humms off and on off and on
Installed new foot and pressure switch. Yesterday it made it to 50 psi and cut off and cut on at 30 psi. It done this 4 or 5 times now it want get above 35 psi do you have any ideas
We have a Sear & Roebuck jet pump Model 390.251901 and don't have a spot for the pressure gauge, could you give me a diagram on where to install one. Thanks
Good video. We have a jet pump and the water in the 2nd story bath shuts off for 2 minutes then comes back on. So I will clean the nipple (flex tube) under the switch to see if that helps. Thanks
I have one of these jet pumps for my house, seems to trip the breaker while running, pump is new and breaker is only 5 years old, pump will turn back on after giving it some attitude, but then eventually trips breaker agian, what could be the cause??
Unfortunately no, jet pumps aren't used in my area. So I rarely see them. But it's not too terribly difficult to replace a injector, the key is to buy All new parts to replace the old items down in the well.
I just installed a pump system like your showing there.Double line down to well. It will run and get up to maybe 15 pound but thats it and the pump will continue to run until you turn it off but never get over 15 pound. What i don't understand is that if it sets over night it will still have the 15 pounds of pressure,is that foot valve in the well still going to be my issue?Thanks
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions Thanks for the reply but i figured it out and it was my stupid fault.Something i never had to do on a pump before but there is a switch box on the pump that you have to turn from 110 to 220 depending on your voltage. Also there was a hole rubbed through the line where it went through the foundation as well so i fixed that. I will now learn to at least breeze through the directions before installing just to make sure they don't decide to do something else stupid with these pumps.
I have always used jet pumps on this but can I use a submersible pump in a 20 ft deep hand dug 4ft across rock lined well for my home, system what size ? Thanks
I need help. We replaced a jet pump it primed right away. Held good for 10 days, then no water today. Primed today and it’s sucking air. The sound is coming from the casing. Do I have a cracked pipe or is my well shot. The foot valve is at 56’, the injector is at 40’, the water level on the pipes is at 35’. We need all the advice we can get.
Hi im Carl , I have a half horse above ground sears hydro glass jet pump. I Think it only has one bigger inlet. It has two same size outlets at the top one straight up and one out the side rite beside the top one what are they for?
The 2 different sizes on the face of the pump go down the well to the injector & foot valve. The top port is your discharge (out going port) You need to watch a video on how dual libe jet pumps function to understand
Great video. I just subscribed. Can you tell me what you mean by getting rid of the tube on the pressure switch and plumb it into your plumbing line? Also, can I buy one of those lines and a pressure switch and just put that back?
Q for you H2o Mechanic, my jet pump is a F&W 1/2 hp. On top of my pump casing is a brass jet screw with a brass locknut. The original setting is gone. Is there a proper method to reset to be correct ?
@@h2omechanic I found the answer in an online F & W manual. To reset the flow control back factory original settings, turn the brass screw clockwise until it stops. Back off (turn counterclockwise) 2 full turns. Turn on 2 faucets and start the pump, adjust the screw for full flow. I'm sorry, I should've added mine is a convertible jet/deep well. It looks like it's ejector / foot-valve time for my system. Last time was 2003(?). Curious, what do you race? Thanks !!!
My case is after I cleaned the sediments on the impeller housing, I didn't take out all the sediment debris, so when the pump is started, the debris goes down to the jet and clogs up, so no water come out at all. So I end up replace the water jet.
Mine is everbilt, reading zero, hear motor on but nothing is happening, it’s primed and bladder empty. Any suggestions, just had freeze, was away and came back home to running but no water
Hey so I have watched this and I have replaced everything and we have been dealing with this for five months I got a new check valve new pump new air tank new everything except pipes have made some repairs on pipes above ground but my pump on holds and holds at 20 psi…please help!!
Thanks for the video! I replaced my injector and foot valve 2 summers ago. Went to put the water on to the summer house yesterday and the pump will not build enough pressure to even kick off with no valves open to tank or house. Just ground to pump. Would never even pump up to 20 psi. Everything worked last summer. We had new lines put in, new injector and new foot valve installed with plastic fittings to the injector from hoses. Water stays in the line up to the top of pump and does not leak down. My question is should I rebuild the pump or is there another problem? The pump is a Goulds j series from 1990. There is a lot of iron in our water. Would you say it’s a injector problem (replaced 2 years ago) or pump problem?
@@Motard867 yes it’s most likely the ejector and foot valve . We changed both pump and ejector but I would really think it was the ejector. If you change the ejector make sure it’s the same one for your pump or the same setup you have. We went to a local plumber and he gave me one that he said would work. We installed it and it didn’t work. I had to pull it up again and change out the long plastic tube and then it worked. Just make sure everything is the same. Also make sure there isn’t any leaks or holes in the lines even before you pull it. I guess from what you can see and hear. If you call someone to do it they will just start replacing parts. They don’t really test anything. So if your handy I would try to do it yourself with a couple friends if possible. It will be insanely cheaper. Even if you need a new pump and ejector/ foot valve. It will still be cheaper than just even having a plumber pull it up. Without even replacing parts.
Thanks bud I appreciate it, haven’t been wanting to pull the lines from the well but that’s the last option of things to replace so I’ll pull them this weekend and inspect jet assembly and injector and replace as needed
Hello there! I lost water pressure this evening so I started to investigate. I have jet pump similar to this. I discovered my pump was running continuously and wasn’t building any pressure. The pump had become quite hot. I also noticed that the feed tube had come off at the pump but reconnecting it didn’t solve my issue. The pressure switch was replaced last summer so I don’t believe that to be the problem. I attempted to reprime the pump but to no avail. I will be reattempting tomorrow when I get some day light but getting water is difficult as there is 3 feet of ice on the lake from which I am pumping. Another thing I’ll be looking for is any Sediment in the feeder tube but I’m not sure what would cause it to dislodge other than vibration possibly. If you had any other advice on what I might check it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
You probably have a frozen pipe somewhere, or a split pipe. It the fitting/ pipe blew off the pump due to high pressure pushing against a frozen plug, you'll have to allow it to thaw & inspect the pipe going to the water closely
@@h2omechanic thanks for the reply. Things have been melting here at this point so I’m not sure if the line going to the lake could be frozen. Definitely can’t rule it out though. When I’m attempting to get prime do I have to make sure that the line to the lake is full of water right up to the pump? I believe that you do but I’m having troubles getting enough water to fill the line without a functional pump! Also I noticed that the pressure tank only has around 20 lbs of pressure. If I remember correctly I have the pressure switch set at 30 & 50 lbs.
@@bq6162 tank needs no more than 28psi of air & your correct about filling up the pipe with water. If it won't hold, then the foot valve is leaking & not holding
@@h2omechanic thanks again for the reply. So I pulled one of the drains on the pump and nothing came out. Upon further inspection the drain hole was filled with mud/debris. The pump has been in place for around 5 years so I’m not sure how much debris to expect to be inside of the pump. I took the intake side of the pump off and cleaned it as well as possible with no running water. It was pretty filthy inside. Got everything back together and still no water. Come spring I’ll have to pull the filter out of the lake and check/clean it. No clue where to go from here. Might have no water till the lake melts. Thanks again
say my neighbor asked me to help her get her yard pump to work. she has a myer deep well pump with injector setting on top of the point and she said that point is maybe 60 or more feet down. and said the last time it ran a few years ago she did not get much water. i have never seen the injector setting on the top of the point. it has been installed many years. so outside of the point , having tons of rust on it to plug the point should i take that injector off and see if it is damaged? i have not yet tried to plumb it to see for myself as i just went to check it out and get the feel for the job. i was going to try to get it primed and see what is going on, but with you talking about the injector may be failing it may be a good idea to take that off and see if it is good. now it looks like it has a double flang over the point and rusted bad so ar those just squeezed onto the point with compression pressure? and can you tell me if it is really practical to have the injector setting about the point that far up with a 60 foot deep well. i do not know yet the actual water level in the poin as i have not taken it apart. thanks
Its probably a screen well & single line. The screen is probably stopped on. She'll need a company out to blow it out the reverse direction, or slam in a new one. Must be a coastal area. In my opinion, don't waste your time, you can't force it to make water It must be flushed.
@@h2omechanic thanks a lot. we are about 5 miles west of lake michigan muskegon mi. the water is pretty clean for well water out our way, but like you said the well may be rusted enough over the years. i told her that acid and shooting a gun n the well was pointless. so i will tell her she may just be better off installing a new well and being done with it. thanks
Dry ice does better. It bubbles in water creates pressure, to help flush the screen. Idk what type of well it is, a local company is your best bet in my opinion. But I'm positive that it's not a easy fix
Hello i have a 1hp jet pump with a 30/50 pressure switch and an ejector. However, i had to adjust the pressure switch cut out to 40 because pump in struggling after that to get to 50psi to shot out. What can be the problem thats causing pump to get to the 50psi?
How old is the pump? The impeller could be eroded and not able to generate enough pressure. Or, the jet is eroded and not efficient at pulling water anymore.
Hey had busted waterline I dug it up fixed it I have a 2 line jet pump and it pulls up hill from a spring it starts to prime but won't go past 20 new injector and foot valve
I got my new well pump working fine. I left the power on to the pump and the cut off pressure switch would turn off the pump until I used it . Overnight one of the pipes came loose and now when I turn on the pump it hums like it's trying to start the pump and can't. Please help,jeff
Hello this might be covered before but why is there two holes in the front of my jet pump do I need to use both of them can I just plug the bottom one and use the top one please help
A single hole jet pump is strictly a suction pump. A 2 hole pump requires using both, one pushes water out & the other pulls water in. You can't just plug a hole, I've tried it, it doesn't work. A 2 hole pump requires 2 lines & a injector / foot valve
I could use some help. We recently started having well issues, when showering we'd lose all water then it would return in a couple minutes. We now have no water but the jet pump humms. Gauge says 0 PSI, and I just replaced the pressure control valve and is still doing the same thing. When I replaced the pressure control switch, water flowed regularly out of the jet pump. Cap to the well casing is completely rusted over.
No, if the pump face has 2 holes, it's a duel pipe system. That is for a 6" style well that uses an injector on the bottom of the drop pipes. Typically irll use a 1" pipe (feed) & a 1.25" pipe for the (suction line) the injector & foot valve attach to the bottom of the pipes. Max 60ft deep
I'm new to well pumps and motors and this one hasn't been used in about 10 yrs. The front of the pump housing has like a 90 degree elbow on it that connects directly to the 2 inch well pipe and the lower opening on the front of the pump housing had nothing in it and I thinking it was left open to drain any water out for winter. Should it be plugged off?
No water deep well jet pump...Why would the big line be sucked closed when the pump runs. If you unplug the pump the water line returns to normal shape. Is it a injector or foot valve issue?
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My pump will run build pressure shut off and then makes a gurgling noise then turns back on
@@rickjones2534 your pipe or foot valve is cracked down in the well. It's just leaking all the pressure back down the hole. Pull pipe out! Look for cracked plastic and holes & inspect the check valve, a rock can be stuck in the oring sometimes
Can you line a 4inch well casing?
More information in 12 mins than I've wasted on dozens of other videos. Great Job.
Best explanation ever. It’s so clear now how it works.
Thank you so much. We had a plumber come out and didn't get us water. After 4 days and watching your video, we got water ourselves.
Bro, I cannot thank you enough. I had resolved to go get another well pump to replace the one I just put in 18 months ago and this video made me go check the pressure switch one last time and sure enough, one of the contacts had come loose and stuck the switch in the open position. I was SO happy to see that spring stuck in there. Thank you thank you thank you! Sincerely.
I have a jet pump system that was originally installed in 1967....in a small casing (2" or so). I've had to have the foot valve replaced twice and have a lot of the red iron in our water. I'm getting a lot of dirt and grit in the filters since the last foot valve was installed in the Spring of this year. I've got a new 86 gallon water pressure tank on order as the bladder in mine has started leaking.
Thanks for the video and info!
the best video for well pumps thank you
You did an excellent job explaining different symptoms and things to troubleshoot.
Well I just realized I need to get rid of a jet pump. Great video.
Great teaching video. Some people don't teach everything. But you did. Great job!
This video answered my question. I appreciate you getting to the point with useful information. Looks like we’ll need to get a new check valve. Thank you.
Awesome explanation! Thanks for a better understanding of how it works. My old contactor burned the red wire from the pump. Melted in two and contactor stuck. I replaced the pressure switch and now my pump comes on at 40 but doesn't gain to 60. It doesn't lose pressure if it sits either. With that burned leg do you think it's possibly a pump issue?
Just wanted to say thank you, watched 10 other videos on this matter and you were able to get the high points in 1/10 the time.
Thanks for this video, years later! Had a friend with problems on a jet pump well, and this helped troubleshoot and explain the problem.
Happy to help! That's why I make them
I have a shallow well jet pump here in Florida. It is a bit different but some of this information is useful! I am receiving a new start capacitor today in the mail. My 1hp motor just hums. I have 240v at the motor but the old capacitor reads above the upper limit of capacitance on the capacitor and I have never gotten a spark when shorting across the terminals of the capacitor so I just ordered a new one. Strange thing happened yesterday on Sunday. An alarm went off on our sewer grinder and when the city's technician came she found the capacitor was bad and replaced it and the grinder motor started right up and you could see the waste material going down in the cylinder. Good to go literally.
Thank you x1000 for explaining that so well! Very helpful
We’ve got a deep well jet pump (two pipe, 1” drive line and 1 1/4” suction line) that we’re having trouble priming. The foot valve and ejector assembly is located in the river-in total about say 200’ away from where the pump is located under the house, with about 45 feet vertical head down to the river. The system holds pressure, but the pump on its own can’t get above about 25 PSI. We had an 20 year old 3/4 HP jet pump (metal impeller) that worked fine under these same conditions that we wanted to replace because it gotten to making a lot of noise. We installed the ejector package that came with the new pump, which is a Red Lion Model. Actually we had another brand in there to start with, but replaced that because of the priming problem, thinking it may be the pump. In watching your video it seems like a problem with the foot valve. Anyway, in talking with some other knowledgeable folks the distance should not be a problem. It’s the head that matters most. That the line friction would only amount to a couple psi difference in line loss. The lines do make a couple of coiled loops near the river (just to make sure we have enough tubing in case we need to cut some off).And like I said, on the old set up, when priming, I;d have to futz around with it getting the air out for a time or three, but it was really no problem. Now we can’t get it work for hell or high water. Any suggestions?
Not sure if you were able to resolve your priming but i have the exact same scenario and I was able to prime the pump with a 1HP and the pump run for about 1min 36 second to go from 30psi to 50psi. I'm happy with this but my issue is that if we take a lots of water the pump doesn't provide enough and I'm afraid to loose priming if I keep the shower running + washing machine and my wife does use the sink...... Not sure how to increase flow :/
Glad I found your channel. I purchased my home 3 years ago and it has a jet pump for the sprinkler system. The pump runs but does not prime. Even if I prime it it just loses pressure right away. I was told it has a bad leather seal and quoted $1200 to repair. I didn’t really bother with it before because it rains a lot here in Virginia Beach. I was wondering how extensive of a repair this is? If it’s not too difficult I might just do it myself.
You can probably tackle the job. $1200 is kinda high, id say $600 max to pull the line and replace a check valve. I'd call Around & get different prices. I believe that you have a bad check valve, must likely. My family was from va-b. Lived over in Point-o-woods & my dad used to work at pollards chicken In the 70s 😆
Best explanation of how a jet pump works 👍. You can understand him plainly. Can use him in Washington.
Great video!! 12 minutes that will save me weeks of troubleshooting! My father in law has an old everite 2 line jet pump connected to a 1/3 HP Dayton motor. He had a plumber install a holding tank but full pressure never returned. Now theres a loud grinding sound coming out of the pump (not the motor) I have a picture of the pump and motor if it would help. At this point it seems the plumber probably didnt pressurize the new tank properly but now it seems the pump bearings or something has finnally worn out and its time for a new 2 line pump and motor. Wed have to dig up a concrete pad to access the existing well so we're thinking a new pump rather then a submersible would be much less time consuming for our situation
This video was very helpful and discouraging at the same time. It sounds like my problem is in my well. It was cycling the other day so i shut the breaker off. I heard the water being released back into the well bit when I turned the breaker back on it only runs . I tried the priming process and can get above 20psi. I don't know exactly where the well is located. Would appreciate any advice you can offer . I also hope to find the location of my well because nothing has been done outside for many years.
Great video thanks!
Love your chanel so informative. I have shallow well maybe 35ft and a cheep 180w solar pump, works good after priming. But when I shut it off it loses prime. Can a put a check valve after the the foot valve to hold prime.?
You need to do a video on ycle stop valves. Good or bad?
Great video bud!been in the business a long time up here in Maine.you did a real good job explaining,especially the part about the Chinese pressure gauge!!
Man went right to the point, thank you!
i've watched 10 videos - yours's is the best. i'd hire you to work on my stuff :-)
I live next to a lake. I have a jet pump that's not working well - I've had the system for 30 years (?)
Replaced the impeller once.
My problems:
1) no water coming out of the hose. then, a few minutes later, water comes out. So I figure the pressure switch may be clogged, like you said - the swtich was stuck in the OFF postion and only turned on when the pressure got REAL LOW.
2) historically, I can leave the pump on full-time and it only runs when there's demand. it was running last night, with no demand. So I'm wondering if the pressure switch allowed the pump to stay off too long and it lost it's prime? so the pump was running dry?
I think I'll be replacing the foot valve (in the lake) and the pressure switch (or flushing it) - also, I've a quick disconnect, where I remove the tubing into the lake for the winter (Minnesota) and I'll take that apart and grease / vasoline the o-ring - so I'm not sucking air into the system
Sound ok?
I have a jet pump and the big freeze is finally over. Now I'm looking to prime my pump since it runs but no water. According to the video I only need to put water in the one section, is that correct? Thanks alot. Someone is coming tomorrow to do it but I'd still like to know how.
I’ve never worked on a water pump or system ever in my life, but you really clarified a lot.
Thank you so much!
I live in South Florida. One of the pvc pipes to my moms 1/2 hp well pump bursted in our garage and it was like a geyser to the ceiling. I have been rigging it to work for the past couple weeks, but I went ahead and purchased a ‘STA-Rite SNC-L Shallow Well Jet Pump 1/2 HP 115/230V’ and SpringWell’s ULTRA Whole House Well Water Filter Salt Based System Combo + UV Water Purification System along with a Spin-Down Sediment Filter.
I have an existing pressure tank and like I said, I’m quite the novice. I’m just a bit confused on where the placement of all my units should be.
It’s quite a big project, but I’ve been trying to study what I can and learn off of TH-cam. It’s just a bit difficult, because since I rigged my pump.. we’ve barely had any water pressure and my pump runs all day long (so I turn it off from the breaker since it would overheat for running 24/7.)
I do have a secondary pump that pulls from our shallow well on the exterior (opposite of the garage pump) that fills into a huge tank that removes iron/ sulfur, but also acts as a holding tank for water, as well. Meaning the pump that bursted is the one that pulls from the water tank outside.
Since I’m not well versed in this field, I’m worried I’ll mess this up somehow. I do however believe I’m correct when I say I can eliminate that whole part of the unit because it’s outdated and unnecessary with the new system I purchased.
Therefore, my assumption is I can directly connect the new pump directly to my well and to my new system and it will work just as it did when using my system previous to the incident (if not better, of course.) The pumps are literally less then 2 feet away from each other, forgot to mention the outside pump is the same HP as the garage one too.
Sorry for the novel and I’m sure you might not even read all of this lol, but I really am trying my best to not call a plumber and to learn to do this all by myself (and with help of TH-cam University!)
I wouldn’t call myself a handyman, but I do try my best in everything. I’m pretty DIY inclined, does this all sound like too much to take on?
If I have all the proper tools.. I wouldn’t see why I couldn’t replace something that’s already there and just add to it.. if I pay attention to all these kinds of tips and very helpful videos.
Any insight is GREATLY appreciated. Regardless, I appreciate your time and wonderful content.
Thank you, again!
Question: Will any leak from say a gasket in the pump prevent the pump from taking a prime? In other words not just a pin hole in the bottom of the well pipe as you mentioned. Long story but... I bought a property that has a surface mount pump that i think got clogged stopped sucking water continued to run and then due to bad wiring fried the breaker eventually and turned off. I removed the pump and impeller was gunked up with red mineral or clay. In the process i destroyed a gasket which lets it leak a little above ground now. Pump seems to run good but not producing any water, What i need to know is am i wasting my time chasing a gasket or is it a possibility the gasket will "seal" the vacuum and produce water with a prime? Like others say,,,, I learned more in one of your videos than 100 others, Im a fan. Subscribed and Liked.
👍🏿 awesome plan and simple.
Brother, this was an amazing tutorial
I’m getting the 30 psi like you said but I’ve replaced everything head to toe should I still pull the valve back out of the well
excellent video thank you very much, great info
Thanks for the video was wandering witch one is the pick up
I am watching this video as I am a plumber (with limited well and pump experience) and my friend has a pressure issue with his deep well jet pump. If we switch to a submersible would I just pull out the 1 1/4”line and connect to his 1” ? And is there a dual pitiless down his well casing or how does that connect?
1''' PITLESS ADAPTER TOOL MADE OUT OF 1'' GAS PIPE MAKE A 5'TEE
Man thank you, ❤❤ much love for your video
I am hoping you can help. I recently installed a new pump. It will draw water but really struggles to get up to pressure. It will and does hold pressure. But the moment the float switch tells it to turn on, it will drop to zero and run extremely hard and loud like it doesn't have water but will eventually (5 minutes give or take) draw water and hold pressure. How do I keep it from dropping all the way to zero? It didn't used to drop that low. It used to keep around 20psi.
That guy explain
Pretty good !!!!
Thanks
Well I have to admit this is a well made video sir.
Good day to you. Thanks so much for the video. It's been great. If I may, I have about a 40--foot deep well. I replaced the drop pipes, put in a new foot valve in the ejector. Inside the house, we also put in a new water heater and pipes. The deep well pump has been primed. I see water spilling out of the hole on the pump where I put in water to prime it. But I still don't get any pressure. There are no leaks inside the house. The deep well tank is at 38 PSI. I also replaced the pump switch with a new one, but the pressure does not go higher than 12 to 14 psi. May I get your advice about this? Would be more than happy to send you payment via PayPal of Venmo. Please let me know. Thanks so much.
You need a valve on the out going port (between pump & tank).
It's pushing water out faster than it can suck it in. So you need to close the valve 90% and slowly open it over 2 minutes & allow the system to catch up.
Note: there can't be Any air leaks on suction side either.
A jet pump can have a dozen possible problems (that's why I don't service them.) Even a skilled plumber can spend hours trying to prime it.
i imagine jet pump bore hole is too small to install a submersible pump in? I have things 2 check on jet pump[great video btw], its running constant, i turned off breaker then came upstairs to watch some vids, hoping its the pressure switch! have new larger pump and pressure tank to install if anything other than injector[i sure hope thats not what it is...i did get a great deal on property and almost 4yrs out of existing equipment but know it needs to be replaced. seeing as I already have the parts, would it still be cheaper or better in the long run to install submersible? i'm thinking would be huge $ to widen well hole for submersible? guess i'll find out monday lol
Hey man. Definitely appreciate your videos however I am not figuring out my issue with any video yet. Is it possible to speak with you?! Thank you!
What an awesome video
My well won’t prime. Almost then it burps air and I have to start over. After watching this video I’m thinking the ejector kit that the foot valve screws into. Note: foot valve is new. Thoughts?
great video...I have a question...I just installed irrigation . I just unplugged my pump to make some pvc cuts and connections and then plugged the pump back in...so I didn't close any valves...then when I plugged my pump back in I got an instant quick burst of water...now all a sudden my pump cuts on at 35 psi but will only run one spicket now and doesn't pump up enough to shut off until I close the spicket. if I try to use more than 1 spicket I barely get any water out of any of them...any idea on what I should/can do?
I'm assuming that it's a jet pump(above ground). It sounds like you have a air lock Trapped in the pump. Try bleeding off the air at the high point of the pump housing. Maybe a gauge or something you can crack open & let it weep under pressure while it's running
Thank you so much for the info...
Thank you for your video is was helpful.
Your the newest video I could find I have a under ground tank I put a shallow well pump (jet pump) on the tank (1000g tank) haven’t had a pump on it over 5 years is it bad to let my pump run back to the tank to circulate the water with bleach to cleen the pump any help
Would be greatly appreciated
I have a two pipe jet pump that only feeds my irrigation 6 zone residencial system and one hose bib. This spring i primed the pump using a garden hose with the motor off. The pump operates fine when the irrigation system or the hose bib is calling for water. Runs at 40lbs. When nothing is calling for water, the pump cycles about evry 90 seconds. If i close the ball valve on the discharge side that feeds the sprinkler system, the the pump cycles every 8 to ten minutes.
I did find a leak on one of the two elbows under the ground where the pipe comes thru the slab the pump is sitting on and turns 90° to exit toward the well head . Any advice will be appreciated.
I was going to install temporary check valves on the two pipes as they leave the pump just see if that stopped the issue but got cold feet.
We still run a Goulds Jet system here, but we take directly from a seep well on a river. And yes nothing by headaches. Brother just replaced the pressure switch because it wasn't cutting off. Now the pump isn't pumping any water as before it was still holding prime. I'm so over this system lol but he wont pay to put in anything else.
what is that blue paste you are using on the metal fittings for the seal? whats the name and where can i purchase that
Awesome video. Thank you
Excellent
Love your simple video explanation. I have an old jet pump+tank for non-potable water on old summer cabin with old venturi/check-valve that we plop into the old lake. Did I mention it's all old? Pump+ pressure tank situated under cabin at 15' height head over lake level. Jet system seems to make sense due to height above lake and cabin plumbing pressure at steady state keeps pump/tank filled. If I replace the system, would you recommend something different or just a new jet system (pump, tank, 2 lines, venturi & check valve)? Also, Recommendations for new system (brand ect). Many Thanks. Harry
I'd hang a submersible pump in the water if you are close enough to run a wire down to it. Just slide the pump into a short 4" pipe to prevent trash on the screen
@@h2omechanic Thanks. Lake is shallow (3') sand bottom so we just strap the old foot/injector to a tire rim. I can probably get power to the lake. Can you point to one of your videos of how to install a submersible? Also guidance on brands/models for either submersible or jet.
@@zhbh101 th-cam.com/video/iXSQg6LLwxY/w-d-xo.html
Hi and thanks for the best jet pump video out there. Question: is it possible for a jet pump to be pulling water from a 178' deep well ?...thanks
No. Max working depth might be 120ft. & that's pushing it. Normally it's 60-80ft
The best explaination ever
Great information, thanks
I have a multistage jet pump with a 2" well casing that is sucking air somewhere. Well is down 50' . Do they make a submersible pump that will fit inside my 2" well casing pipe? The pump is about 45-50 yrs. old is a Flint Walling pump which lists at $1950.
Hey there. So glad I found this video. I have a piece of land with a well that I’m trying to get going after not being used for 15 years. There are two lines to thr well and drop in with a pitless valve. I’ve been shopping for a deep well jet pump because I’m certain that is what it was hooked up for, but is there anyway to take your advice and go with a submersible given it has a dual pitless that I don’t want to dig up?
Never seen a dual pitless. But id assume you'd still have to dig it up & cap the other side. Or maybe cap the pitless head if that's possible & then you can definitely hang a submersible in there. Hopefully there's wire going out to the well. If not, use the un needed pipe as a wire chase. But you'd still have to dig it up.
@@h2omechanic Thanks very much. I was thinking about this a bit after posting that question, and I'm questioning if I need to do anything with the second line. If it is a dual pitless, and it was a jet pump, then each line runs separately. Your comment in the video about the 1" vs. 1 and 1/4" is what really sold me on the submersible. If I just don't use the second pipe, and turn the first pipe into a direct line for the new submersible, that should work. I can dig a trench for the power. The water lines are quite deep (6 feet at well), and the electrical run in my county only needs to be 2ft. I'm trying to think of what just leaving the second pipe unused with the dual pitless will give me any issues with the submersible. Can you think of what it would need to be capped?
Is there a video on converting a shallow jet pump to a submersible pump?
th-cam.com/video/P4xCLVk_BuM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hqWwKocJmJc4ciV6
Hey again i love your videos and your knowledge is indeed priceless thank you one million times over. I just bought new deep jet pump replaced ejector foot valve and venture it will only build up to 35-37 psi my switch is 30/50 i filled pressure tank to 28 psi its holding prime pressure switch is new also. please help
How deep did you set you lines? & how deep is the water level
So the well is 60ft deep and the lines are about 55 56 ft approximately do you think it's resting on the bottom of the well?
And do I have to have a tee off my pressure tank or will it operate normally with out one? Thank you again
@@dustinwarren3125 you have to have a tank. But not sure why you can build high pressures unless you have a lose clamp or fitting somewhere sucking in air
Thank you sir I do have a pressure tank but do not have a tee hooked up to it I wasn't sure if I needed one on the tank for it to operate properly
I’m south Florida jet pumps are all we use
My pump just like this went out. So bought new and install. Primed and it initially went up to 53 psi but did not go higher or shut off so in fear of burning up pump I shut off . Manual said was set at factory at 30/50. Turned back on to adjust and now it just kicks on but no pressure. I have replaced everything in the well , jet pack,check valve and all pipe still can't get it to prime. Are there any trick in getting a air lock out.
This is the biggest problem with jet pumps. To force out a air leak, you need a hose from the neighbors and force water thru the system is the easy way. Or remove the elbow at the top of the well & slowly fill the pipe there.
@@h2omechanic that's what I am planning on doing later today where would you suggest I hook the hose up to
I’m not sure if it’s something that is an easy fix but I have a f&w convertible pump (cpj05b model) at about 65-70 feet and it suddenly stopped pumping water. I had just started the washer and went outside and heard it running and thought nothing of it until 5-10 minutes later I noticed it was still running. I went inside and stopped the washer and turned the tub on and it was rusty brown and only had pressure for about two gallons and then it went to nothing.
The last time I had issues with it, the pressure switch had got clogged so the first thing I did was switch it out. Only one I had on hand was a 30/50 (switching from a 20/40) so I also adjusted the tank. When that didn’t fix the issue I double checked the prime and other than a build up of sand (which was rock solid) it was full. At the same time I checked the pressure gauge and it to had build up so cleaned that up and just put that back to plug the hole until I got a new one. I also disconnected the discharge pipe and I pe texted that just for the chance of any build up in that but it was clear. Lastly I took the plug off the T to look at the pipe down to the well and it was filled to the top with water as well.
There has been a couple times that if I tap on the T near the plug I can get about 2 gallons of dirty water before it goes back to nothing. The local well guy is 4-5 months out on calls so I’m just making sure I cover everything I can while I wait. I am assuming if the line is full of water that means there is no leak correct?
I started watching your videos because we're having a problem with our well system, our tank is empty and our pump kicks on for around 15 seconds until it builds up pressure at 63 but the needle drops back to zero when it shuts off and it doesn't hold pressure this gauge is on the pump, the gauge that is connect to the switch is on around 50. I thought the pressure switch was the problem but after taking the cover off I think it's something else I was wondering if you can help.
The foot valve on the bottom of the suction pipe is leaking. It's only supposed to allow water the flow in & then it closes when the pump shuts down. Yours is broken or stuck in the open position
Question: We just replaced the foot valve, injector pump, seal cap and pipe elbows on my well line. (We replaced the 2-line Jet Pump about a year ago). My plumber friend suggested we use PVC elbows instead of cast iron. My pit is about 4' deep. Last night we had subzero temperatures. Can't build pressure (sitting at 30 / 40) up to shut off (40/60). Pit has about 1' of water or more in it. Did we crack the PVC elbows?
It's possible that it is cracked for sure. Try to prime it.
@@h2omechanic Hi again. The PVC connections and elbows did not crack. However, our connection from the elbow to the 1 1/4 down pipe came apart. We put it back together and filled the pipes with water. Could not get it to pump water. Unless you have a better solution, our next course of action is to pull the pipes and check the foot valve. It is a new hard plastic (NPT) one that came with the injector pump. I may go ahead and replace it with a brass Foot Valve with a better screen. Any thoughts ???
@Kevin Marks I'm not a jet pump expert, so I can't point you in the right direction...that being said, I think your going in the right direction. Just look at every joint/connection closely!
@@kevinmarks6461 if one connection came apart, it's likely that another did as well. Going with a brass foot valve is not a bad idea. It will typically outlast PVC.
My pump stopped working after my electric went off for a few hours. Its humming but not turning on. Priming didnt work. Any thoughts? This pump looks like yours and i dumped the water in there but it wont turn on just humms off and on off and on
Installed new foot and pressure switch. Yesterday it made it to 50 psi and cut off and cut on at 30 psi. It done this 4 or 5 times now it want get above 35 psi do you have any ideas
Can you tell me typically how far down a well cap is on a shallow well and it is a pretty old one?
We have a Sear & Roebuck jet pump Model 390.251901 and don't have a spot for the pressure gauge, could you give me a diagram on where to install one. Thanks
Very helpful video!
Good video. We have a jet pump and the water in the 2nd story bath shuts off for 2 minutes then comes back on. So I will clean the nipple (flex tube) under the switch to see if that helps. Thanks
I have one of these jet pumps for my house, seems to trip the breaker while running, pump is new and breaker is only 5 years old, pump will turn back on after giving it some attitude, but then eventually trips breaker agian, what could be the cause??
Awesome
Do you have a video about changing a foot valve or injector?
Unfortunately no, jet pumps aren't used in my area. So I rarely see them. But it's not too terribly difficult to replace a injector, the key is to buy All new parts to replace the old items down in the well.
I have a jet pump and have thought of replacing it with a submersible but cost and my well head is not exposed. Lots of issues.
Hey Bro can help me? My jet pump is primed, pressure tank new, pressure on pump at 60 all looks good but can get water to eject.
I just installed a pump system like your showing there.Double line down to well. It will run and get up to maybe 15 pound but thats it and the pump will continue to run until you turn it off but never get over 15 pound. What i don't understand is that if it sets over night it will still have the 15 pounds of pressure,is that foot valve in the well still going to be my issue?Thanks
Varify that you have the pressure and suction lines in the right holes of the pump. It almost sounds like they're reversed and it can't pull water up
@@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions Thanks for the reply but i figured it out and it was my stupid fault.Something i never had to do on a pump before but there is a switch box on the pump that you have to turn from 110 to 220 depending on your voltage. Also there was a hole rubbed through the line where it went through the foundation as well so i fixed that. I will now learn to at least breeze through the directions before installing just to make sure they don't decide to do something else stupid with these pumps.
I have always used jet pumps on this but can I use a submersible pump in a 20 ft deep hand dug 4ft across rock lined well for my home, system what size ? Thanks
Yes. Any 1/2hp will work. Watch my video on Yard hydrant install, I did exactly what you are wanting to do in a 30ft rock well from 1904
My well pump hums but doesn’t start. I replaced the pressure switch but it didn’t help. The pump is still primed. Any advice would be appreciated.
It's locked up. Dead. Either bad bearings or lightning hit it
You might get lucky if you can see the shaft & try to turn it with vice grips & free it up. If not, replace it
Could it possibly be the capacitor?
@@mmwilliams8710 if it looks swollen or popped then yes.
I need help. We replaced a jet pump it primed right away. Held good for 10 days, then no water today. Primed today and it’s sucking air. The sound is coming from the casing. Do I have a cracked pipe or is my well shot. The foot valve is at 56’, the injector is at 40’, the water level on the pipes is at 35’. We need all the advice we can get.
If your pipes have clamps, tighten them . 1 might be loose. Or possibly a cracked pipe. But possible that the well is dry as well
Hi im Carl , I have a half horse above ground sears hydro glass jet pump. I Think it only has one bigger inlet. It has two same size outlets at the top one straight up and one out the side rite beside the top one what are they for?
The 2 different sizes on the face of the pump go down the well to the injector & foot valve.
The top port is your discharge (out going port)
You need to watch a video on how dual libe jet pumps function to understand
Great video. I just subscribed. Can you tell me what you mean by getting rid of the tube on the pressure switch and plumb it into your plumbing line? Also, can I buy one of those lines and a pressure switch and just put that back?
That is what I want to know too.
How long should your pump run while first priming? Replaced old pump with a jet pump
No more than 1 minute.
Q for you H2o Mechanic, my jet pump is a F&W 1/2 hp. On top of my pump casing is a brass jet screw with a brass locknut. The original setting is gone. Is there a proper method to reset to be correct ?
Not sure, but id say it's more of an air bleeder . If its at the top of the cast pump head.
@@h2omechanic I found the answer in an online F & W manual. To reset the flow control back factory original settings, turn the brass screw clockwise until it stops. Back off (turn counterclockwise) 2 full turns. Turn on 2 faucets and start the pump, adjust the screw for full flow. I'm sorry, I should've added mine is a convertible jet/deep well. It looks like it's ejector / foot-valve time for my system. Last time was 2003(?). Curious, what do you race? Thanks !!!
My case is after I cleaned the sediments on the impeller housing, I didn't take out all the sediment debris, so when the pump is started, the debris goes down to the jet and clogs up, so no water come out at all. So I end up replace the water jet.
Mine is everbilt, reading zero, hear motor on but nothing is happening, it’s primed and bladder empty. Any suggestions, just had freeze, was away and came back home to running but no water
Im in the same boat
Hey so I have watched this and I have replaced everything and we have been dealing with this for five months I got a new check valve new pump new air tank new everything except pipes have made some repairs on pipes above ground but my pump on holds and holds at 20 psi…please help!!
Thanks for the video! I replaced my injector and foot valve 2 summers ago. Went to put the water on to the summer house yesterday and the pump will not build enough pressure to even kick off with no valves open to tank or house. Just ground to pump. Would never even pump up to 20 psi. Everything worked last summer. We had new lines put in, new injector and new foot valve installed with plastic fittings to the injector from hoses. Water stays in the line up to the top of pump and does not leak down. My question is should I rebuild the pump or is there another problem? The pump is a Goulds j series from 1990. There is a lot of iron in our water. Would you say it’s a injector problem (replaced 2 years ago) or pump problem?
I rebuilt the pump and still have the same problem. Even pulled up the injector and cleaned it out. Still the same problem
Ever find the issue? Having similar problems with mine now, put a new pump in and still haven’t been able to fix it
@@Motard867 yes it’s most likely the ejector and foot valve . We changed both pump and ejector but I would really think it was the ejector. If you change the ejector make sure it’s the same one for your pump or the same setup you have. We went to a local plumber and he gave me one that he said would work. We installed it and it didn’t work. I had to pull it up again and change out the long plastic tube and then it worked. Just make sure everything is the same. Also make sure there isn’t any leaks or holes in the lines even before you pull it. I guess from what you can see and hear. If you call someone to do it they will just start replacing parts. They don’t really test anything. So if your handy I would try to do it yourself with a couple friends if possible. It will be insanely cheaper. Even if you need a new pump and ejector/ foot valve. It will still be cheaper than just even having a plumber pull it up. Without even replacing parts.
Thanks bud I appreciate it, haven’t been wanting to pull the lines from the well but that’s the last option of things to replace so I’ll pull them this weekend and inspect jet assembly and injector and replace as needed
Welcome. Good luck. Don’t use metal barb fittings makes sure you use the plastic barbs. Our metal barbs literally dissolved in the water.
Hello there! I lost water pressure this evening so I started to investigate. I have jet pump similar to this. I discovered my pump was running continuously and wasn’t building any pressure. The pump had become quite hot. I also noticed that the feed tube had come off at the pump but reconnecting it didn’t solve my issue. The pressure switch was replaced last summer so I don’t believe that to be the problem. I attempted to reprime the pump but to no avail. I will be reattempting tomorrow when I get some day light but getting water is difficult as there is 3 feet of ice on the lake from which I am pumping. Another thing I’ll be looking for is any Sediment in the feeder tube but I’m not sure what would cause it to dislodge other than vibration possibly. If you had any other advice on what I might check it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
You probably have a frozen pipe somewhere, or a split pipe. It the fitting/ pipe blew off the pump due to high pressure pushing against a frozen plug, you'll have to allow it to thaw & inspect the pipe going to the water closely
@@h2omechanic thanks for the reply. Things have been melting here at this point so I’m not sure if the line going to the lake could be frozen. Definitely can’t rule it out though. When I’m attempting to get prime do I have to make sure that the line to the lake is full of water right up to the pump? I believe that you do but I’m having troubles getting enough water to fill the line without a functional pump! Also I noticed that the pressure tank only has around 20 lbs of pressure. If I remember correctly I have the pressure switch set at 30 & 50 lbs.
@@bq6162 tank needs no more than 28psi of air & your correct about filling up the pipe with water. If it won't hold, then the foot valve is leaking & not holding
@@h2omechanic thanks again for the reply. So I pulled one of the drains on the pump and nothing came out. Upon further inspection the drain hole was filled with mud/debris. The pump has been in place for around 5 years so I’m not sure how much debris to expect to be inside of the pump. I took the intake side of the pump off and cleaned it as well as possible with no running water. It was pretty filthy inside. Got everything back together and still no water. Come spring I’ll have to pull the filter out of the lake and check/clean it. No clue where to go from here. Might have no water till the lake melts.
Thanks again
say my neighbor asked me to help her get her yard pump to work. she has a myer deep well pump with injector setting on top of the point and she said that point is maybe 60 or more feet down. and said the last time it ran a few years ago she did not get much water. i have never seen the injector setting on the top of the point. it has been installed many years. so outside of the point , having tons of rust on it to plug the point should i take that injector off and see if it is damaged? i have not yet tried to plumb it to see for myself as i just went to check it out and get the feel for the job. i was going to try to get it primed and see what is going on, but with you talking about the injector may be failing it may be a good idea to take that off and see if it is good. now it looks like it has a double flang over the point and rusted bad so ar those just squeezed onto the point with compression pressure? and can you tell me if it is really practical to have the injector setting about the point that far up with a 60 foot deep well. i do not know yet the actual water level in the poin as i have not taken it apart. thanks
Its probably a screen well & single line. The screen is probably stopped on. She'll need a company out to blow it out the reverse direction, or slam in a new one. Must be a coastal area. In my opinion, don't waste your time, you can't force it to make water
It must be flushed.
@@h2omechanic thanks a lot. we are about 5 miles west of lake michigan muskegon mi. the water is pretty clean for well water out our way, but like you said the well may be rusted enough over the years. i told her that acid and shooting a gun n the well was pointless. so i will tell her she may just be better off installing a new well and being done with it. thanks
Dry ice does better. It bubbles in water creates pressure, to help flush the screen.
Idk what type of well it is, a local company is your best bet in my opinion.
But I'm positive that it's not a easy fix
Hello i have a 1hp jet pump with a 30/50 pressure switch and an ejector. However, i had to adjust the pressure switch cut out to 40 because pump in struggling after that to get to 50psi to shot out. What can be the problem thats causing pump to get to the 50psi?
How old is the pump? The impeller could be eroded and not able to generate enough pressure.
Or, the jet is eroded and not efficient at pulling water anymore.
Hey had busted waterline I dug it up fixed it I have a 2 line jet pump and it pulls up hill from a spring it starts to prime but won't go past 20 new injector and foot valve
Probably a air leak at one of the fittings
Hey man I can’t find the video we’re you talk about pressure tanks !!
My pump only gets to 40 lbs. won’t prime. New foot valve hold ing. New pressure tank. New pressure switch. Can the pump just be bad. It’s 15 years. ??
I got my new well pump working fine. I left the power on to the pump and the cut off pressure switch would turn off the pump until I used it . Overnight one of the pipes came loose and now when I turn on the pump it hums like it's trying to start the pump and can't. Please help,jeff
Above ground jet pump? Or submersible
Jet pump would require re-priming. You'll need about 6-7 gallons to prime it.
Hello this might be covered before but why is there two holes in the front of my jet pump do I need to use both of them can I just plug the bottom one and use the top one please help
A single hole jet pump is strictly a suction pump.
A 2 hole pump requires using both, one pushes water out & the other pulls water in. You can't just plug a hole, I've tried it, it doesn't work.
A 2 hole pump requires 2 lines & a injector / foot valve
I could use some help. We recently started having well issues, when showering we'd lose all water then it would return in a couple minutes. We now have no water but the jet pump humms. Gauge says 0 PSI, and I just replaced the pressure control valve and is still doing the same thing. When I replaced the pressure control switch, water flowed regularly out of the jet pump. Cap to the well casing is completely rusted over.
I'm having the problem right now. How did you fix this?
If I have a convertible jet pump for a shallow well does the lower opening on the face of the pump housing just get plugged off?
No, if the pump face has 2 holes, it's a duel pipe system. That is for a 6" style well that uses an injector on the bottom of the drop pipes. Typically irll use a 1" pipe (feed) & a 1.25" pipe for the (suction line) the injector & foot valve attach to the bottom of the pipes. Max 60ft deep
A single hole face pump is a suction pump only capable of pulling from about 30ft deep.
I'm new to well pumps and motors and this one hasn't been used in about 10 yrs. The front of the pump housing has like a 90 degree elbow on it that connects directly to the 2 inch well pipe and the lower opening on the front of the pump housing had nothing in it and I thinking it was left open to drain any water out for winter. Should it be plugged off?
No water deep well jet pump...Why would the big line be sucked closed when the pump runs. If you unplug the pump the water line returns to normal shape. Is it a injector or foot valve issue?