Terry I can't thank you enough! Your how-to on the CV install gave me the confidence to try mine and whatta ya know? Zero problems since installing it myself a few months ago. I have a spare genuine CV in need of some boots so now I'll give it a go too. I really appreciate your videos, thank you very much! Best, Sam.
Great video as always Terry, very well explained. Just a quick tip though, when installing the outer CV, put a cable tie tightly around the circlip to compress it, cut off the excess then put the CV on, the cable tie should slide along the shaft, then cut it off when CV is on. Makes it easier to slide the CV along the splines past the clip. Also you can get a cone shaped tool to stretch the new boot over the CV without having to remove the CV.
That’s a great tip re the zip tie mate, thanks for sharing. I doubt those cone shaped tools will work in this instance. They are designed for flexible rubber boots that you find on cars. The genuine and good quality aftermarket boots for the cruisers are very rigid and thick rubber. You would be hard pressed to expand them by 5%, let alone the amount you need to get it over the CV. Cheers👍😎
Not sure if you explained fully CV failure on 200 series in other videos, but it relates to when the joint is mostly at FULL DROOP exposing the joint to it's weakest area on the edge of the cup (or tulip if you prefer), hence the trend of diff-drops when lifting more than 30mm.
G'day Terry, another fantastic & informative vid. Question, should the ball bearings go back in the same slot? I was thinking if there was a slight geometric difference that returning them to their original position may make a difference. Your feedback is welcomed. Cheers Kevin
Toyota are pretty good with their tolerances mate, but putting back where they came from certainly would not hurt. It might be a bit of a challenge to keep track of where they came from, but not impossible. Thanks for the suggestion mate👍😎
Terrific video Terry. Just a comment on steering Rack replacement for 2008 model. Do you have any this videos on this process. I am getting some advice as to the motor to be removed, don't think this correct, although I realise a big job Any comments appreciated.
I do not have any first hand experience mate. I have heard some pull the motor, others pull the front diff. I can’t imagine the motor would be easier than the diff, but that is just the logic chip in my brain, again no first hand experience 😎👍
Cheers Terry. I hear you on the remove motor. I would assume that the motor should be lifted around 40mm to accommodate the height of the rack to gain clearance. I'd say a major job, any way you look at it. Cheers.
Nice vid. And explanation of the job. Really only worth it when the drive shaft in good conditions and that’s your spare shaft. Did you got a stone locked in the outer housing part which cutter the rubber or ugly quality rubber boot in first place? I cleaned the grease out from the seat and opposition the boot before assembly to make sure that it does not flips out. Not a nice job on road side….. Cheers
Terry I can't thank you enough! Your how-to on the CV install gave me the confidence to try mine and whatta ya know? Zero problems since installing it myself a few months ago. I have a spare genuine CV in need of some boots so now I'll give it a go too. I really appreciate your videos, thank you very much!
Best,
Sam.
That’s amazing feedback Sam, thank you so much for sharing. That makes the hard work putting these videos together very much worth it😎👍
There’s an echo in my lounge room!!! Just after I said the words “this one time, at band clamp”!!! 😂😂😅
Another great video Terry 👍
What a great movie 😂😎
What a great movie 😂😎
@@JafffaAdventures Indeed 🤩
Great video as always Terry, very well explained. Just a quick tip though, when installing the outer CV, put a cable tie tightly around the circlip to compress it, cut off the excess then put the CV on, the cable tie should slide along the shaft, then cut it off when CV is on. Makes it easier to slide the CV along the splines past the clip.
Also you can get a cone shaped tool to stretch the new boot over the CV without having to remove the CV.
That’s a great tip re the zip tie mate, thanks for sharing. I doubt those cone shaped tools will work in this instance. They are designed for flexible rubber boots that you find on cars. The genuine and good quality aftermarket boots for the cruisers are very rigid and thick rubber. You would be hard pressed to expand them by 5%, let alone the amount you need to get it over the CV. Cheers👍😎
Thanks Terry, another ownsome video into my Favorite list of LC200 DIY
All good mate, thanks for the kind words 👍😎
Time to bin the TShirt Terry haha, very informative as always cheers
Yes mate, it’s in the rag bag😉👍
You’re a weapon Terry, great tutorial again mate!
Cheers Lee, I’m glad you found some value here. Cheers👍😎
Another Great mechanical video. Thanks for showing us how to do this.
No worries at all mate, I’m glad you found some value here👍😎
Not sure if you explained fully CV failure on 200 series in other videos, but it relates to when the joint is mostly at FULL DROOP exposing the joint to it's weakest area on the edge of the cup (or tulip if you prefer), hence the trend of diff-drops when lifting more than 30mm.
Yes indeed mate. I have a diff drop and had it for years now. Would not travel without it😎👍
Nice thanks for the tip. Another great vid
Cheers Hans, thanks for dropping in👍😎
Excellent video 👍 thanks for taking the time.
Thanks for the feedback mate👍😎
Great info Terry. Cheers Steve
Thanks Steve. You still have your 200 or did you flick it when you got the Ram?
Afternoon Mr. King 👍 Geez, only 5k old 😥
I know, it’s a travesty 👍
Hey mate, would be a good video idea of basic tools/gear you take on a trip for a on the road repair. The 200 Travelers Toolkit if you will.
Tools to Carry for Camping and 4WD Travel? | Camping and 4x4 toolkit
th-cam.com/video/tNS_iCtEvzw/w-d-xo.html
G'day Terry, another fantastic & informative vid. Question, should the ball bearings go back in the same slot? I was thinking if there was a slight geometric difference that returning them to their original position may make a difference. Your feedback is welcomed. Cheers Kevin
Toyota are pretty good with their tolerances mate, but putting back where they came from certainly would not hurt. It might be a bit of a challenge to keep track of where they came from, but not impossible. Thanks for the suggestion mate👍😎
Terrific video Terry.
Just a comment on steering Rack replacement for 2008 model.
Do you have any this videos on this process.
I am getting some advice as to the motor to be removed, don't think this correct, although I realise a big job
Any comments appreciated.
I do not have any first hand experience mate. I have heard some pull the motor, others pull the front diff. I can’t imagine the motor would be easier than the diff, but that is just the logic chip in my brain, again no first hand experience 😎👍
Cheers Terry.
I hear you on the remove motor.
I would assume that the motor should be lifted around 40mm to accommodate the height of the rack to gain clearance.
I'd say a major job, any way you look at it.
Cheers.
Nice vid. And explanation of the job.
Really only worth it when the drive shaft in good conditions and that’s your spare shaft.
Did you got a stone locked in the outer housing part which cutter the rubber or ugly quality rubber boot in first place?
I cleaned the grease out from the seat and opposition the boot before assembly to make sure that it does not flips out.
Not a nice job on road side…..
Cheers
Not sure why the boot failed mate, it was a brand new genuine CV. I bit unlucky I guess. Cheers👍
Good
Cheers