Beautiful little Mac 110. Another well made how to video. I had to same smoking engine problem and in my case I replaced the oiler o-ring to fix it. I started collecting Mac top handle saws this year. Just acquired a new old stock 1987 Eager Beaver.
Thanks for that tip about sanding the oiler disc piston. I did notice that there was a lot of "play" in the disc and rod. Great info for us DIY peeps! Jimbo
My dad used to have one of those in the very eary 80s. Sorry, but is it just me or do those little McCullochs sound very special and unique? I mean, Chainsaw is chainsaw, but when you started that one i had goosebumps immeediately....much deeper and more powerful than they might acutally are. Thank you for preserving that little gem :)
Thank You. I have other videos showing similar models from different angles. In those it was my freakishly large cranium that was in the way. Cinematography is not my forte.
I inherited one of these, not sure the exact model as the sticker is missing, but I have to give a full service, I've always hear my grandpa and my dad saying it has an oiler problem, it's been sitting for years. The plastic handle is missing but I guess it's not the exact same model as mine doesn't have the peg on the other side where it attaches too.
Thank you for the very informative video. I was able to get my old eager beaver chainsaw running again. I used my eager beaver back in the mid 80’s then didn’t have any need to use it until lately. My question is, my saw has what is called a grinder assembly and auto sharp knob ( listed in the parts list ) but now missing on my saw. My saw looks identical to the Mac 110 that you have in your video except for the fact that just below the oil fill knob is the space for this assembly. I can not find this part anywhere, eBay etc. Are you familiar with this model ?
Protecting the piston and cylinder are paramount, when I first get them going I use a 30:1 full synthetic mix. A little smoke is a small price to pay to make sure I don’t destroy what I’m trying to fix. After that, a 40:1 full synth with non-ethanol fuel has always served me well.
excellent,half the job is cleaning...would you know what other tanks fit the mini 35,,that one sure looks the same...i patched my tank,using a soldering iron,,,works but not great
Hi J.K!!! I have a pro mac 155, is the same of yours but with 2 hand operating handlebar. Don't start, i have changed diaphfram and gasket of the carb, can you tell me how you regulate the screws L and H. Thanks
Gently screw in the low until seated, then back out about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Do the same for the high side, That should put you in the ball park to get it started.
I have one of these and it's got this same barrel on the idle adjust screw. I had it running great yesterday, but then decided to try to make it run better. Big mistake. Now I'm having trouble getting it to run well again! How many turns out would be a good starting point? (I wasn't smart enough to count before I fouled everything up. Argh!)
Gently screw both high and low in until seated, then turn both out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns, the should be a good starting point for most saws. The low side does 85% of the load, so start there first.
Working on my mini mac 35 oil pump. Disc piston seems to be binding. Can these be rebuilt? Parts available? Will I just have to buy a new pump? Jimbo (NimbleJim)
The disc sometimes becomes out-of round due to heat and dirt. I sand down the edges of the disc until it slides freely. When pushed in, the spring should push it back out. If not, sand the edge of the disc until it does, that should cure it.
Any idea where a cdi coil can be found for these little saws? I just put one on my Mac 110 but had a hard time finding it. Original coil lasted many years and went bad and replaced it with a walbro 300387, and it lasted 4-5 yrs , and the one I found is another 300387 walbro, got it going again but would love to find another for a spare. Any other brand saws you know of that use the same coil? Shape of them are kind of unique.
Generally, Yellow cased mini’s 110, 120, 130, 140, 160s, ( points ignition ) use the same coil. It is the same with the black cased mini. 110,120, 130, 140, 160s & the eager beaver 2.0 ( electronic ignition )all use the same coil.
Thank you for the reply. My saw has the cdi coil, electronic ignition, no provisions for a points setup, I have a fly wheel, and all that is needed for points setup but the engine has no provisions to install them. I was wondering if you might know if any other branded small saw that used the same setup? I also have a John Deere 40v with points and found out the echo 351 vl is the same saw and can get parts for it relatively easy.
My saw won't idle so I'm trying to clean my Walbro MDC15 carb for my Mini Mac 110 but the kit comes with the wrong Welsh plugs. Where do you source 1/2 inch Welsh plugs for this carb? I already tried spraying the carb out but the saw acts like the slow speed circuit is completely plugged. Thanks, Scott
For low and high, turn the screws in “GENTLY” until they are seated. Then turn each of them out 1-1/2 turns. For most saws, it’s a good starting point.
I just found one of these sitting in my barn, I think it was my grandfathers...probably been sitting there 30 years. No idea why it was decommissioned. I've got a stihl ms291 with a 20" bar that I absolutely love...but there are times where it is a bit much. The Mac 110 is missing its side cover(replacement available) and I dont think it runs...but the piston is free & it feels like I have compression...you think its worth my time to try to get it running again?
I may be bias because the mini macs are my favorite, ( I just resurrected another one today ) but I say yes. The carb rebuild kits are cheap, plentiful and so are the available parts. Yes, they are the “problem child” of the entire McCulloch line, but a little patients will go a long way. If you get stuck, I have quite a few videos breaking down each step of disassembly / reassembly process with a few tips and tricks along the way.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 good to hear. I actually got my running last night too! thanks in large part to your videos. Didn't even need a carb kit, just took it all apart, cleaned it, flexed those dog ears on the pump and she fired right up. Also found the chain break cover, which was clutch😉 only problem I have is she dies if I come off the trigger (idle). Gonna spend some time tonight learning what those screws on the carb actually do, you got a video on that?
@@mtraven23 Initial set up for the carb: Gently turn in the low side ( closest to the carb ) all the way in until seated. Then turn it out 1-1/2 turns. Do the same for the high side. For most carbs, this is a good starting point. Brining up the idle speed slightly will help keep it running until you dial it in.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I had found that note in the comments somewhere....and it is a solid starting point. I took the saw out today, cut a little with it. Pretty impressed by 32cc! and honestly, it starts better than any saw I've ever had, maybe then any 2 stroke I've had. But I still can't get here to idle, just dies when I come off the gas. It will start & run with the idle lock engaged, not sure that means anything. I spent a good 30 minutes fiddling with those screws, no luck. Is it possible, even though I got it running, I still have a problem with the carb & need to rebuild it anyways? sorry to keep bugging you, but you seem to really know your engines and I dont know anyone else who does!
I have one of these MACs (110)... belonged to my dad. Hard to start. It will run for about 5 seconds, then will not start. Have to wait till the next day to try to start it again. Waiting on a carb kit. Any idea on compression? Mine is about 105 psi. Cylinder has some gouging. Can I (should I) hone it out a bit?
HOW DO YO GET THE SAW TO TURN OVER WITH OUT SPINNING THE NUT OFF.I TRIED IT6 time or so but keeps spinning both nuts off!!? Flywheel and clutch!great power for soch a small saw.i sawed alot of firewood with one for my dad.before that was 42inch bucksaw.that was 1971.😢🥵😂🤕
Using a drill to start an engine is risky. I have found that using a corded drill with a top rpm above 2500 works best. A battery powered drill will resist going any higher than its maximum rpm. As the engine starts, it will spin up quickly exceeding the drill and unscrewing the nut holding the flywheel or clutch. I have tried lightly impacting an additional nut onto the flywheel side, or using thread locker blue to hold the nut in place, each with moderate success. I have also tried using a “skelitonized” case as a test rig (still under development).
If it's the little plastic disc, it works in conjunction with the diaphragm to push down on the lever arm @ every pressure pulse the carb receives from the engine. Most diaphragms have the disc ( usually metal ) riveted to the diaphragm itself. Here, it is a two piece design.
I have a low use Mac 110 with a bad coil that stops sparking after about 45 seconds of running. Can you tell me where I could purchase a new coil for this unit. It is my dad's old saw and hardly saw any use.
I'm afraid I'm going to get a Ebay coil that is no better than what I have. Do you think the coils were a frequent failure item with the Mini Macs? Thanks @@j.k.mcclead9207
Hi just wondering during were can I buy the fuel tank element filter for a eager beaver 2.0 Cid please . Is there a part # or store I can buy it online mate . I'm nick from western Australia city perth
I've seen a few on eBay, but they are not cheap. A good work around is to take the filter element out of a Walbro weighted fuel filter, ( also available on eBay and much less expensive) and push that in the tank from the fitting side. The filter must be recessed about 1/4 below the opening to allow the fitting and O-ring to seat properly.
eBay. The 110,120,130,140,160s, Eager Beaver 2.0, all use the same carb. If yours is a yellow cased model, it is most likely a Walbro MDC, Black cased, ZAMA M-1 M-7.
At 23:08, what if that little lever thing that the plastic disk thing fits into doesn't move freely. (It moves if it push on the opposite side with a small screwdriver, but I have a feeling it's supposed to ride high on the plastic disk side. It seems to be doing the opposite.) I'm letting it soak overnight in gas... Thanks for the very helpful videos! :)
Remove the lever arm and needle ( hold your finger on the lever arm as you remove the small phillips screw as there is a spring beneath it ) and clean it with penetrating oil. I also recommend cutting a Q-tip in half, placing it in a drill, and using that to clean out the hole ( seat ) where the needle was removed. PB Blaster is what I use, it stinks horribly, but works well to dissolve varnish.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Ok, so... still soaking. (I'm waiting on new diaphragm gaskets. In the meantime, soak, soak, soak!) Things seem to be freeing up quite nicely between soaking and blowing everything out with compressed air. I'm a little bit afraid to take apart that little rocker arm thing because, well, I'm afraid of the "SPROING Factor!" :) When I get my diaphragm gaskets and I"m ready to put everything back together... it's it true that the "flapper," "valve," diaphragm gaskets go against the aluminum part of the carb... not the plastic spacer side? (There are 4 gaskets, I'm just trying to make sure I get the order correct. I should've taken better pictures before I took it apart.) Thank you SO MUCH for all your help and videos! I'm starting to feel as though this saw is going to run again... if not, the carb is sure gonna look nice on eBay! LOL
On the diaphragm side, ( looking down at the carb ) its' gasket first, diaphragm on top. On the fuel pump side, it's the same thing. The lever arm has a small spring, there’s not much pressure, just hold your finger on the lever arm as you remove the screw so you don’t lose the parts. put the carb on a towel so if you do lose something, it’s not going far. @@elrattyone6316
What is the setting for the metering lever?is it level with the body or level with the gasket?or lever little above the. gasket?the height of the metering lever??😢
The carb, why could you show a complete rebuild?i was wanting to see the metering lever .to see if you had to adjust it.mean i rebuilted a shit load carbs the past 47 yrs .i find this is a little different carb.not sure if the lever should be little higher than carb body or just bit below carb body ? 5 or 0.10 above or below where gasket sits on carb?🤔🇨🇦
I have other videos detailing this carb rebuild including metering height level. For this one, the arm should be level with channel that it's nestled between. After trial and error testing, I have found that setting the arm a hair higher ( and I do mean "a hair" ) gives the saw better overall performance.
Hello, it won't throw oil on the chain either I disassembled and assembled, I don't see a problem, but it won't send oil to the chain, what could it be
@@MarinkoDubravac Check to see if the hoses have not gotten clogged or mushy and collapsed on the inside. If so, I restore the hoses by taking the spring out a “click pen” and insert it into the hose to prevent it from collapsing on itself. Keep me updated.
It’s a major problem to keep the engine clean on these saws and half a day doing it Just don’t like the style of them for that reason only but are fine saw😊
far out the amount of work you have done to get this going right has left me depressed , i have 8 of these and they all play the game of im working today buy tomorrow im not working , and here i was thinking oh !! its just a carbi idle problem ? if i only knew (((((((( Sir you are a expert and i am just a tree climber with a crazy idea that yes lets use these old saws up the trees , i have many Mccullochs 10-10 55 700 800s and love them , they seem basic to work on until you see these beaver saws , yes i am dumb for my investment as i am not a saw guy like you , im sure this saw your working on is from 1977 , as i have one still with the box , oh well they look good , and no wonder my saw shop said to me if i want these saws worked on it $$$$$$$ now i can see why ))
Beautiful little Mac 110. Another well made how to video. I had to same smoking engine problem and in my case I replaced the oiler o-ring to fix it. I started collecting Mac top handle saws this year. Just acquired a new old stock 1987 Eager Beaver.
Just sanded the edges of the oiler disc with my Deemed and "voila", it slides freely in the pump the way it was intended. Bravo!, J.K.
Thanks for that tip about sanding the oiler disc piston. I did notice that there was a lot of "play" in the disc and rod. Great info
for us DIY peeps! Jimbo
Hello also have two Mcculloch.
120 and 140
nice little things
greetings from Germany Peter
Best how to video I ever saw !!! Thank you !
Appreciation for your attention to detail.
Thank You for making this video. I have a Mini Mac 35 and you've been a helping hand.
My dad used to have one of those in the very eary 80s.
Sorry, but is it just me or do those little McCullochs sound very special and unique?
I mean, Chainsaw is chainsaw, but when you started that one i had goosebumps immeediately....much deeper and more powerful than they might acutally are.
Thank you for preserving that little gem :)
Very helpful video, thank you very much. I’ve just bought the same one and couldn’t figure out how to get it apart
Best video on this saw I've seen, hands in the way some but great explanation all around, Thanks JK!
Thank You. I have other videos showing similar models from different angles. In those it was my freakishly large cranium that was in the way. Cinematography is not my forte.
Thank you for your great video
I inherited one of these, not sure the exact model as the sticker is missing, but I have to give a full service, I've always hear my grandpa and my dad saying it has an oiler problem, it's been sitting for years. The plastic handle is missing but I guess it's not the exact same model as mine doesn't have the peg on the other side where it attaches too.
McCulloch Chainsaw. My Favorite Power Tool!
Thank you for the very informative video. I was able to get my old eager beaver chainsaw running again. I used my eager beaver back in the mid 80’s then didn’t have any need to use it until lately. My question is, my saw has what is called a grinder assembly and auto sharp knob ( listed in the parts list ) but now missing on my saw. My saw looks identical to the Mac 110 that you have in your video except for the fact that just below the oil fill knob is the space for this assembly. I can not find this part anywhere, eBay etc. Are you familiar with this model ?
Thank you for the video! What's the best oil to gas ration for McCulloch 140? 40 to 1?
Protecting the piston and cylinder are paramount, when I first get them going I use a 30:1 full synthetic mix. A little smoke is a small price to pay to make sure I don’t destroy what I’m trying to fix. After that, a 40:1 full synth with non-ethanol fuel has always served me well.
excellent,half the job is cleaning...would you know what other tanks fit the mini 35,,that one sure looks the same...i patched my tank,using a soldering iron,,,works but not great
The mini 25,30,35,110,120,130,140,160s and the pro mac 510/515 all use the same fuel/oil tank
@@j.k.mcclead9207 thank-you
Hi J.K!!! I have a pro mac 155, is the same of yours but with 2 hand operating handlebar. Don't start, i have changed diaphfram and gasket of the carb, can you tell me how you regulate the screws L and H. Thanks
Gently screw in the low until seated, then back out about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Do the same for the high side, That should put you in the ball park to get it started.
I have one of these and it's got this same barrel on the idle adjust screw. I had it running great yesterday, but then decided to try to make it run better. Big mistake. Now I'm having trouble getting it to run well again! How many turns out would be a good starting point? (I wasn't smart enough to count before I fouled everything up. Argh!)
Gently screw both high and low in until seated, then turn both out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns, the should be a good starting point for most saws. The low side does 85% of the load, so start there first.
Working on my mini mac 35 oil pump. Disc piston seems to be binding. Can these be rebuilt? Parts available? Will I just have to buy a new pump? Jimbo (NimbleJim)
The disc sometimes becomes out-of round due to heat and dirt. I sand down the edges of the disc until it slides freely. When pushed in, the spring should push it back out. If not, sand the edge of the disc until it does, that should cure it.
very nicely none-lots of info
Any idea where a cdi coil can be found for these little saws? I just put one on my Mac 110 but had a hard time finding it. Original coil lasted many years and went bad and replaced it with a walbro 300387, and it lasted 4-5 yrs , and the one I found is another 300387 walbro, got it going again but would love to find another for a spare. Any other brand saws you know of that use the same coil? Shape of them are kind of unique.
Generally, Yellow cased mini’s 110, 120, 130, 140, 160s, ( points ignition ) use the same coil. It is the same with the black cased mini. 110,120, 130, 140, 160s & the eager beaver 2.0 ( electronic ignition )all use the same coil.
Thank you for the reply. My saw has the cdi coil, electronic ignition, no provisions for a points setup, I have a fly wheel, and all that is needed for points setup but the engine has no provisions to install them. I was wondering if you might know if any other branded small saw that used the same setup? I also have a John Deere 40v with points and found out the echo 351 vl is the same saw and can get parts for it relatively easy.
Think you have use a coil that is recommended for it.think a friend used 1 of an xl 2 hommie saw .could be wrong friend.
If i had your e mail could sell yeah 1!
How many turns out do you put the low mix and high mix screw?
Turn in gently until seated, then out on each a turn and a half. That should give you a good starting point.
My saw won't idle so I'm trying to clean my Walbro MDC15 carb for my Mini Mac 110 but the kit comes with the wrong Welsh plugs. Where do you source 1/2 inch Welsh plugs for this carb? I already tried spraying the carb out but the saw acts like the slow speed circuit is completely plugged. Thanks, Scott
The rebuild kits from "Walbro", though a bit more expensive, are usually a full kit containing the welch plugs.
What are the stock settings for the carby screws please
For low and high, turn the screws in “GENTLY” until they are seated. Then turn each of them out 1-1/2 turns. For most saws, it’s a good starting point.
I just found one of these sitting in my barn, I think it was my grandfathers...probably been sitting there 30 years. No idea why it was decommissioned. I've got a stihl ms291 with a 20" bar that I absolutely love...but there are times where it is a bit much. The Mac 110 is missing its side cover(replacement available) and I dont think it runs...but the piston is free & it feels like I have compression...you think its worth my time to try to get it running again?
I may be bias because the mini macs are my favorite, ( I just resurrected another one today ) but I say yes. The carb rebuild kits are cheap, plentiful and so are the available parts. Yes, they are the “problem child” of the entire McCulloch line, but a little patients will go a long way. If you get stuck, I have quite a few videos breaking down each step of disassembly / reassembly process with a few tips and tricks along the way.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 good to hear. I actually got my running last night too! thanks in large part to your videos. Didn't even need a carb kit, just took it all apart, cleaned it, flexed those dog ears on the pump and she fired right up. Also found the chain break cover, which was clutch😉
only problem I have is she dies if I come off the trigger (idle). Gonna spend some time tonight learning what those screws on the carb actually do, you got a video on that?
@@mtraven23 Initial set up for the carb: Gently turn in the low side ( closest to the carb ) all the way in until seated. Then turn it out 1-1/2 turns. Do the same for the high side. For most carbs, this is a good starting point. Brining up the idle speed slightly will help keep it running until you dial it in.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 I had found that note in the comments somewhere....and it is a solid starting point. I took the saw out today, cut a little with it. Pretty impressed by 32cc! and honestly, it starts better than any saw I've ever had, maybe then any 2 stroke I've had.
But I still can't get here to idle, just dies when I come off the gas. It will start & run with the idle lock engaged, not sure that means anything. I spent a good 30 minutes fiddling with those screws, no luck. Is it possible, even though I got it running, I still have a problem with the carb & need to rebuild it anyways?
sorry to keep bugging you, but you seem to really know your engines and I dont know anyone else who does!
I have one of these MACs (110)... belonged to my dad. Hard to start. It will run for about 5 seconds, then will not start. Have to wait till the next day to try to start it again. Waiting on a carb kit.
Any idea on compression? Mine is about 105 psi.
Cylinder has some gouging. Can I (should I) hone it out a bit?
HOW DO YO GET THE SAW TO TURN OVER WITH OUT SPINNING THE NUT OFF.I TRIED IT6 time or so but keeps spinning both nuts off!!? Flywheel and clutch!great power for soch a small saw.i sawed alot of firewood with one for my dad.before that was 42inch bucksaw.that was 1971.😢🥵😂🤕
Using a drill to start an engine is risky. I have found that using a corded drill with a top rpm above 2500 works best. A battery powered drill will resist going any higher than its maximum rpm. As the engine starts, it will spin up quickly exceeding the drill and unscrewing the nut holding the flywheel or clutch. I have tried lightly impacting an additional nut onto the flywheel side, or using thread locker blue to hold the nut in place, each with moderate success. I have also tried using a “skelitonized” case as a test rig (still under development).
The little disc inside the carb how does it work?
If it's the little plastic disc, it works in conjunction with the diaphragm to push down on the lever arm @ every pressure pulse the carb receives from the engine. Most diaphragms have the disc ( usually metal ) riveted to the diaphragm itself. Here, it is a two piece design.
Any chance of finding the little oiler T piece black adapter you have there ? my one is missing :'(
They are indeed hard to find, fleabay is probably your best source.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 any chance you know the part number or something :'(
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 #217167 is the part number
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you so much. I will head to my local mower place and see if they can get it, otherwise i'll source online :)
Have a couple of them. Send shipping cost ill send you 1.or give your enail eddie and go from there.😂
I have a low use Mac 110 with a bad coil that stops sparking after about 45 seconds of running. Can you tell me where I could purchase a new coil for this unit. It is my dad's old saw and hardly saw any use.
eBay. The yellow cased mini’s ( Points ignition ) all use the same coil. 110, 120, 130, 140, 160 and the mini Mac 25, 30 & 35 as well.
I'm afraid I'm going to get a Ebay coil that is no better than what I have. Do you think the coils were a frequent failure item with the Mini Macs? Thanks @@j.k.mcclead9207
Please turn up the volume for us older folks. Ok
Thanks 🙏
Hi just wondering during were can I buy the fuel tank element filter for a eager beaver 2.0 Cid please . Is there a part # or store I can buy it online mate . I'm nick from western Australia city perth
I've seen a few on eBay, but they are not cheap. A good work around is to take the filter element out of a Walbro weighted fuel filter, ( also available on eBay and much less expensive) and push that in the tank from the fitting side. The filter must be recessed about 1/4 below the opening to allow the fitting and O-ring to seat properly.
Can you send me a example picture so I buy the correct type please
www.ebay.com/itm/313187290921
I have one ,same issues, cant get the oiler to not flood the engine with oil. it needs a new home! lol
Looks new and just needs carb kit and lines. Be new again 😊
So how do I find a new carb for that saw I need one
eBay. The 110,120,130,140,160s, Eager Beaver 2.0, all use the same carb. If yours is a yellow cased model, it is most likely a Walbro MDC, Black cased, ZAMA M-1 M-7.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 mine is a black cased model and I know that the carb is a zama carb and thank you for the help
What was the rebuild kit?
K1-MDC for Walbro Carbs, M1-7 For ZAMA Carbs
At 23:08, what if that little lever thing that the plastic disk thing fits into doesn't move freely. (It moves if it push on the opposite side with a small screwdriver, but I have a feeling it's supposed to ride high on the plastic disk side. It seems to be doing the opposite.) I'm letting it soak overnight in gas...
Thanks for the very helpful videos! :)
Remove the lever arm and needle ( hold your finger on the lever arm as you remove the small phillips screw as there is a spring beneath it ) and clean it with penetrating oil. I also recommend cutting a Q-tip in half, placing it in a drill, and using that to clean out the hole ( seat ) where the needle was removed. PB Blaster is what I use, it stinks horribly, but works well to dissolve varnish.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Ok, so... still soaking. (I'm waiting on new diaphragm gaskets. In the meantime, soak, soak, soak!) Things seem to be freeing up quite nicely between soaking and blowing everything out with compressed air. I'm a little bit afraid to take apart that little rocker arm thing because, well, I'm afraid of the "SPROING Factor!" :)
When I get my diaphragm gaskets and I"m ready to put everything back together... it's it true that the "flapper," "valve," diaphragm gaskets go against the aluminum part of the carb... not the plastic spacer side? (There are 4 gaskets, I'm just trying to make sure I get the order correct. I should've taken better pictures before I took it apart.)
Thank you SO MUCH for all your help and videos! I'm starting to feel as though this saw is going to run again... if not, the carb is sure gonna look nice on eBay! LOL
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Wow! It runs! Thank you so much for your help!
On the diaphragm side, ( looking down at the carb ) its' gasket first, diaphragm on top. On the fuel pump side, it's the same thing. The lever arm has a small spring, there’s not much pressure, just hold your finger on the lever arm as you remove the screw so you don’t lose the parts. put the carb on a towel so if you do lose something, it’s not going far. @@elrattyone6316
What is the setting for the metering lever?is it level with the body or level with the gasket?or lever little above the. gasket?the height of the metering lever??😢
The carb, why could you show a complete rebuild?i was wanting to see the metering lever .to see if you had to adjust it.mean i rebuilted a shit load carbs the past 47 yrs .i find this is a little different carb.not sure if the lever should be little higher than carb body or just bit below carb body ? 5 or 0.10 above or below where gasket sits on carb?🤔🇨🇦
I have other videos detailing this carb rebuild including metering height level. For this one, the arm should be level with channel that it's nestled between. After trial and error testing, I have found that setting the arm a hair higher ( and I do mean "a hair" ) gives the saw better overall performance.
Hello, it won't throw oil on the chain either I disassembled and assembled, I don't see a problem, but it won't send oil to the chain, what could it be
Does the manual pump work?
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Yes
@@MarinkoDubravac Check to see if the hoses have not gotten clogged or mushy and collapsed on the inside. If so, I restore the hoses by taking the spring out a “click pen” and insert it into the hose to prevent it from collapsing on itself. Keep me updated.
Chainsaw is the ultimate aphrodisiac
That and power steering
Nobody will ever accuse me of not knowing what I'm talking about
It’s a major problem to keep the engine clean on these saws and half a day doing it
Just don’t like the style of them for that reason only but are fine saw😊
Dremel, that is.
.
Would have been nice to see your tuning but your hand was in the way lol
My apologies, usually it’s my freakishly large cranium in the way. I have a few more vids working on similar models, maybe the angles are better.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 great work
far out the amount of work you have done to get this going right has left me depressed , i have 8 of these and they all play the game of im working today buy tomorrow im not working , and here i was thinking oh !! its just a carbi idle problem ? if i only knew (((((((( Sir you are a expert and i am just a tree climber with a crazy idea that yes lets use these old saws up the trees , i have many Mccullochs 10-10 55 700 800s and love them , they seem basic to work on until you see these beaver saws , yes i am dumb for my investment as i am not a saw guy like you , im sure this saw your working on is from 1977 , as i have one still with the box , oh well they look good , and no wonder my saw shop said to me if i want these saws worked on it $$$$$$$ now i can see why ))