You have to heat the wire first to give the soldier something to stick to and you could also try using a little flux that will help the solder flow good repair techniques thank you
A little flux on the bare wire will make the solder flow alot smoother. Also you want to heat the metal not the solder. If the metal is cold the solder will not stick. Some tech tips.
Nice video. very direct with not much foofoo unneeded chat. I have 3 of these guys and think they're great to use. I had one for a long time, the other two were cheap enough and got them in case parts became unavailable. Came to this video because the third one I have seems to have no spark and after already having open the other two a few times I was looking for some hints to make it easier on me. Now off to dissect my own.
I would love to know how to reconnect the fuel line to the tank, line on my eager beaver goes straight from carb to tank, no plastic half way point, putting half’s together there is zero room to get pliers or anything in there to pull hove onto barbed tank spout. Been trying for 5 months I hv to give up let it sit and try when I hv patients built up cause it pisses me off to jut all the parts needed to restore mo deceased dads chain saw abs not be able to run it. It starts great with a littke fuel in the spark plug hole abs screw plug in real quick pull it starts up just can’t get fuel hose hooked back up or pulled past the barb on the tank barbed nozzle, zero room and ideas greatly appreciated. I want to use this before I die and I’m 60 now, on turn #4 now lol
The fuel barb separates from the tank itself and should stay in the body of the saw when the tank is removed. There is a square fitting on the barb that fits into an square opening on the bottom of the case. Before you put the engine back in the case, cut a piece of fuel line exactly the same length as the old one. There is a tendency to cut the line a little longer than the original to give yourself a bit of "working room", but the clearance inside the case is too tight and the line will kink if too long, cutting off the fuel flow. Connect the fuel line to the carburetor and the other end to the fuel barb ( the square part of the barb should face down ) so that the everything is preassembled before you slide the engine back in the case. Now, here is where the "fun" part starts. There is a "notch" on the inside bottom of the case where the fuel line goes, it's crucial that the line goes in that groove or else it will be pinched between the engine and the case. Once you massage the engine in place, (making sure nothing is pinched) push the barb down into its corresponding hole in the case and finish assembly. There is an O-ring on the opposite end of the barb that will seal the the fuel tank. Align the barb to the tank and push. P.S. At 58yrs old, I'm not far behind you baby boomer.
Why are you using 3 layers of heat shrink ? i tried a single layer and it's too thick to easily fit through the gap it's supposed to :'( Also how long should the ignition /spark plug cable be between boot and coil. i think i made mine too long and it's hard to bend into the right spot to put upon the spark plug.
I'm using super thin harbor freight tubing. It’s just a “quick and dirty” repair, improvising with no spare parts or special tools. The proper way would be to replace the line, but most guys trying to fix grandpa’s old saw don’t have spare parts lying around. Improvise, adapt, overcome.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you for replying. I didn't notice that the cable is able to be replaced, only cut at or close to the base and solder a new line on from there. I'll go to the mower store tomorrow and see what they have. :)
Hi, any ideas on why my oilers won't work. I've stripped and reassembled mine with the help of your videos. They're running great but won't oil! I've had everything apart and cleaned everything out, am I right in thinking it's the piston that's failed and not sealing? Can't find any videos or help on them unfortunately 😕 👍
The most common “no oil after reassembly” problem is the rubber hose that connects the manual/automatic oiler between the tank and the hole for the bar oil to flow. Properly alligning the hose with the tank during reassembly is tricky. The “barbed” end must be fully inserted in the tank, or the hose will kink, cutting off oil flow. Second is the hose itself. Though bar oil is not generally tough on rubber, the hoses will soften over time and collapse. A quick fix I do is to insert a small spring, (click pen works well) into the hose to hold it open. Mcculloch did that with their fuel lines. Next, there is a screen on the manual oiler plunger in the tank that may be clogged, that is also worth checking out.
I picked one up at and have determined the coil is bad. I cannot seem to locate any coil for it. Have you found any alternatives to the original part number that work?
The black cased minis (electronic ignition) which includes the 110, 120, 130, 160s, and the EB 2.0 all use the same coil. An eBay search may yield a coil or two. There is also a trick to salvage the one you have. Baking your coil at your oven’s lowest setting for a couple of hours has the ability to bring back a dead coil. It sounds strange, but I’ve done it quite a bit with about an 80% success rate.
For the yellow case mini its the Walbro MDC. For the black cased mini its the ZAMA M1-M7. Both carbs and kits are plentiful on eBay. Just make sure the seller is in the USA, or you'll be waiting quite a while. Unless the carb is really in bad shape, rebuilding is the way to go. It's rare that a carb is so bad that it can't be rebuilt.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you sooo much….order the kit ,will have it tomorrow….. A few more questions for you…..what’s the minimum compression on the motor to certainly give a start and why I do need the area to be dark before I can see a spark a the spark plug gap? THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN…..WATCH YOUR VIDEO SOOO MANY TIMES….LOVE THE WAY U SHOWED IT
@@SheikShak 150psi is optimal, when it dips below 100psi it may not be enough to get it running especially when the spark is weak. The spark is not especially bright, when I am recording, I have a bunch of bright lights shining on the area I’m working on. The camera may not be able to “see” the spark if the area is awash in light. If the spark is weak, it’s hard to see with your eyes.
I find most of mine on eBay. The black cased saws (electronic ignition) Ex: 110, 120, 130, 160s & the Eager beaver 2.0, are the exact same saw inside and out. Any differences are merely cosmetic.
the wire you repaired that was shorting out, where does the other end attach to? I'm thinking it attaches to the same screw that the condenser wire attaches to but I am getting no spark. My coil is good, my lam gap is about .009, and my points gap is about .005. Any suggestions?
The points should be 0.018, the coil to flywheel gap should be 0.009. The wire I repaired loops around between the back side of the flywheel and the block, and attaches to the curved piece of metal on the plastic carburertor intake manifold. That curved metal tab makes contact with the on/off switch on the case.
Thanks again for the info, I think I found a used ignition coil which looks identical to the one on your video where you find the short on the coil wire. I looked as closely as I could to that scene to see which coil mounting screw had the insulated washer attaching the coil and I think it goes between the wire and the hole, can you please confirm this for me so I don’t go through the reassembly only to find out I put it on the wrong screw. Your help will be greatly appreciated thanks again
Sure, The Black cased (electronic ignition) uses a ZAMA M1-7 rebuild kit available on ebay for less than $10. Choose a U.S. seller or you will be waiting weeks for delivery.
I wonder if I just squirt some PirmaTex down in there will I get lucky? I only paid 995 for the pawnshop and even came with a really nice chainsaw case....... which to me is a bout as useful as tits on a boar hog. Been nice if it's just used a little bit of that PVC plastic on the ground wire, right? Thanks very helpful !
Not condemning your videos ok. They are great but you failed to finish helping me with a couple of things and I cannot find a video anywhere on it. I wanted to see you reinstall the gas tank, & installing new brake band I think it just snaps in I hope still waiting on mine to come in the mail. But my tank dosen’t have that round plastic oring plug that ha a X in front of it or I called cross hairs, my tank has a barbed push in type connector that just pushes into the fuel line and going to be a bitch to get such a small thing into the small hole in gas line. And the thing thats kicking my ass right now is the throttle linkage I hv it in the carb but prob don’t hv it lined up right cause it won’t reach over and stick to the magnet on flywheel, there is a half rounded off band(stop switch connector, wire plugs into coil) that is in the way. cannot get the linkage into the plastic throttle trigger hole. The most important videos as far as I’m concerned
The tank should be a 2 piece design. That “barbed” end separates from the tank and is installed along with the engine into a rectangular hole in the bottom of the case, then the tank pushes on to that barb when the tank is installed. In the 2.0 reassembly video, I go into detail on how the throttle linkage should go. It is still a royal pain to get in and may take quite a few times to get it right. Attach the throttle linkage to the carb first, bring the rod forward and rotate the flywheel so that the magnet grabs the rod. Once the engine is bolted in, squeeze the trigger and slide the rod over and with a pair of narrow needle nose pliers push it into the notch at the front of the plastic trigger.
Just picked up one of these, needs the fuel line replaced. Your videos are very helpful and informative. Thanks for sharing.
You have to heat the wire first to give the soldier something to stick to and you could also try using a little flux that will help the solder flow good repair techniques thank you
Thank you sir for the video just found the Eager Beaver chainsaw in a junkyard. I have it running because your video thank you.
Edward Willwert Glad I could help. They are a challenge, but well worth the effort.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 if so by
A little flux on the bare wire will make the solder flow alot smoother. Also you want to heat the metal not the solder. If the metal is cold the solder will not stick. Some tech tips.
Nice video. very direct with not much foofoo unneeded chat. I have 3 of these guys and think they're great to use. I had one for a long time, the other two were cheap enough and got them in case parts became unavailable. Came to this video because the third one I have seems to have no spark and after already having open the other two a few times I was looking for some hints to make it easier on me. Now off to dissect my own.
I would love to know how to reconnect the fuel line to the tank, line on my eager beaver goes straight from carb to tank, no plastic half way point, putting half’s together there is zero room to get pliers or anything in there to pull hove onto barbed tank spout. Been trying for 5 months I hv to give up let it sit and try when I hv patients built up cause it pisses me off to jut all the parts needed to restore mo deceased dads chain saw abs not be able to run it. It starts great with a littke fuel in the spark plug hole abs screw plug in real quick pull it starts up just can’t get fuel hose hooked back up or pulled past the barb on the tank barbed nozzle, zero room and ideas greatly appreciated. I want to use this before I die and I’m 60 now, on turn #4 now lol
The fuel barb separates from the tank itself and should stay in the body of the saw when the tank is removed. There is a square fitting on the barb that fits into an square opening on the bottom of the case. Before you put the engine back in the case, cut a piece of fuel line exactly the same length as the old one. There is a tendency to cut the line a little longer than the original to give yourself a bit of "working room", but the clearance inside the case is too tight and the line will kink if too long, cutting off the fuel flow. Connect the fuel line to the carburetor and the other end to the fuel barb ( the square part of the barb should face down ) so that the everything is preassembled before you slide the engine back in the case. Now, here is where the "fun" part starts. There is a "notch" on the inside bottom of the case where the fuel line goes, it's crucial that the line goes in that groove or else it will be pinched between the engine and the case. Once you massage the engine in place, (making sure nothing is pinched) push the barb down into its corresponding hole in the case and finish assembly. There is an O-ring on the opposite end of the barb that will seal the the fuel tank. Align the barb to the tank and push.
P.S. At 58yrs old, I'm not far behind you baby boomer.
Why are you using 3 layers of heat shrink ?
i tried a single layer and it's too thick to easily fit through the gap it's supposed to :'(
Also how long should the ignition /spark plug cable be between boot and coil. i think i made mine too long and it's hard to bend into the right spot to put upon the spark plug.
I'm using super thin harbor freight tubing. It’s just a “quick and dirty” repair, improvising with no spare parts or special tools. The proper way would be to replace the line, but most guys trying to fix grandpa’s old saw don’t have spare parts lying around. Improvise, adapt, overcome.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you for replying.
I didn't notice that the cable is able to be replaced, only cut at or close to the base and solder a new line on from there.
I'll go to the mower store tomorrow and see what they have. :)
Hi, any ideas on why my oilers won't work. I've stripped and reassembled mine with the help of your videos. They're running great but won't oil! I've had everything apart and cleaned everything out, am I right in thinking it's the piston that's failed and not sealing? Can't find any videos or help on them unfortunately 😕 👍
The most common “no oil after reassembly” problem is the rubber hose that connects the manual/automatic oiler between the tank and the hole for the bar oil to flow. Properly alligning the hose with the tank during reassembly is tricky. The “barbed” end must be fully inserted in the tank, or the hose will kink, cutting off oil flow. Second is the hose itself. Though bar oil is not generally tough on rubber, the hoses will soften over time and collapse. A quick fix I do is to insert a small spring, (click pen works well) into the hose to hold it open. Mcculloch did that with their fuel lines. Next, there is a screen on the manual oiler plunger in the tank that may be clogged, that is also worth checking out.
I picked one up at and have determined the coil is bad. I cannot seem to locate any coil for it. Have you found any alternatives to the original part number that work?
The black cased minis (electronic ignition) which includes the 110, 120, 130, 160s, and the EB 2.0 all use the same coil. An eBay search may yield a coil or two. There is also a trick to salvage the one you have. Baking your coil at your oven’s lowest setting for a couple of hours has the ability to bring back a dead coil. It sounds strange, but I’ve done it quite a bit with about an 80% success rate.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 thanks. ill try that!
Good job……where could I get the carburetor to buy and the part #….I am only finding the repair kit….please help
For the yellow case mini its the Walbro MDC. For the black cased mini its the ZAMA M1-M7. Both carbs and kits are plentiful on eBay. Just make sure the seller is in the USA, or you'll be waiting quite a while. Unless the carb is really in bad shape, rebuilding is the way to go. It's rare that a carb is so bad that it can't be rebuilt.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 Thank you sooo much….order the kit ,will have it tomorrow…..
A few more questions for you…..what’s the minimum compression on the motor to certainly give a start and why I do need the area to be dark before I can see a spark
a the spark plug gap? THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN…..WATCH YOUR VIDEO SOOO MANY TIMES….LOVE THE WAY U SHOWED IT
@@SheikShak 150psi is optimal, when it dips below 100psi it may not be enough to get it running especially when the spark is weak. The spark is not especially bright, when I am recording, I have a bunch of bright lights shining on the area I’m working on. The camera may not be able to “see” the spark if the area is awash in light. If the spark is weak, it’s hard to see with your eyes.
Great instructional video my only question is where can I find parts for my eager beaver saw same model? I can’t find parts
I find most of mine on eBay. The black cased saws (electronic ignition) Ex: 110, 120, 130, 160s & the Eager beaver 2.0, are the exact same saw inside and out. Any differences are merely cosmetic.
the wire you repaired that was shorting out, where does the other end attach to? I'm thinking it attaches to the same screw that the condenser wire attaches to but I am getting no spark. My coil is good, my lam gap is about .009, and my points gap is about .005. Any suggestions?
The points should be 0.018, the coil to flywheel gap should be 0.009. The wire I repaired loops around between the back side of the flywheel and the block, and attaches to the curved piece of metal on the plastic carburertor intake manifold. That curved metal tab makes contact with the on/off switch on the case.
@@j.k.mcclead9207 thank you, I'm getting spark...yay!!
Excellent! One hurdle cleared.
Thanks again for the info, I think I found a used ignition coil which looks identical to the one on your video where you find the short on the coil wire. I looked as closely as I could to that scene to see which coil mounting screw had the insulated washer attaching the coil and I think it goes between the wire and the hole, can you please confirm this for me so I don’t go through the reassembly only to find out I put it on the wrong screw. Your help will be greatly appreciated thanks again
Miguel Andrade On the they bottom bolt with the grounding wire, it’s the wire first then the fiber washer beneath it.
Can you point me in the direction for a carb rebuild for this model saw the 2.0
Sure, The Black cased (electronic ignition) uses a ZAMA M1-7 rebuild kit available on ebay for less than $10. Choose a U.S. seller or you will be waiting weeks for delivery.
Die Lötverbindung ist
I wonder if I just squirt some PirmaTex down in there will I get lucky? I only paid 995 for the pawnshop and even came with a really nice chainsaw case.......
which to me is a bout as useful as tits on a boar hog. Been nice if it's just used a little bit of that PVC plastic on the ground wire, right?
Thanks very helpful !
Not condemning your videos ok. They are great but you failed to finish helping me with a couple of things and I cannot find a video anywhere on it. I wanted to see you reinstall the gas tank, & installing new brake band I think it just snaps in I hope still waiting on mine to come in the mail. But my tank dosen’t have that round plastic oring plug that ha a X in front of it or I called cross hairs, my tank has a barbed push in type connector that just pushes into the fuel line and going to be a bitch to get such a small thing into the small hole in gas line. And the thing thats kicking my ass right now is the throttle linkage I hv it in the carb but prob don’t hv it lined up right cause it won’t reach over and stick to the magnet on flywheel, there is a half rounded off band(stop switch connector, wire plugs into coil) that is in the way. cannot get the linkage into the plastic throttle trigger hole. The most important videos as far as I’m concerned
The tank should be a 2 piece design. That “barbed” end separates from the tank and is installed along with the engine into a rectangular hole in the bottom of the case, then the tank pushes on to that barb when the tank is installed.
In the 2.0 reassembly video, I go into detail on how the throttle linkage should go. It is still a royal pain to get in and may take quite a few times to get it right.
Attach the throttle linkage to the carb first, bring the rod forward and rotate the flywheel so that the magnet grabs the rod. Once the engine is bolted in, squeeze the trigger and slide the rod over and with a pair of narrow needle nose pliers push it into the notch at the front of the plastic trigger.
Maccullch 40