Nice video! Great to see inside the box. I am about to replace my whole system on a V70 non-turbo with 200,000 miles. I wanted to share this in case anyone else is wondering: please remember that PCV valves can also get stuck OPEN!! I had no idea what was causing my rough idle and lumpy acceleration at times: no engine codes! It turns out the PCV being stuck OPEN can actually cause these issues. You don't get over pressure issues, instead you get too much air/ gas being sucked into the intake, especially at idle/ low RPM. Hope this helps anyone else who has these problems. Great to see inside the box here, and finally understand that yes, these boxes do have valve & diaphragm function, not just an oil trap.
It’s the PCV diaphragm that went bad on my 2009 Volvo C-30 T5 with 89000 miles. Had all the same symptoms and it corrected the issue once I replaced it. About 25 dollars for the part and shipping at IPD USA. Alot better than spending the 200+$ on the whole PCV system. Takes like 10-15 minutes to replace it using an 8 mm socket, flat head screwdriver, and a long wooden cooking spoon lol. It gave the leverage needed to replace the cap in such a tight space.
Volvo made a big mistake with this PCV design. They fail so often while parts and labor are expensive. If you don't replace them, engine will start leaking oil on mid and lower sections. That happens, the repair bill will be crazy.
Please replace the PCV box and associated hoses every 8 years or 80000 miles which ever comes first, regardless if the glove test fails or not. The hoses need replaced especially in the turbo engine, despite being quite expensive on online sites as only genuine is available. Don't forget to use new gaskets (manifold, throttle body) and to blow air through the lower engine port (read on forums about it). This is a video for the non turbo engine th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html
You are 100% right. A blocked oil trap could damage other parts. This repair cost my friend $1000. If the oil trap is blocked, how to know if the engine has been damage due to this oil trapped being blocked? Even if you replace it, what symptons of an engine damaged due to this trap?
You have been a great help with my 2002 s60 that I acquired for free from my neighbor. On the non-Turbo's, do you still need to remove fuel rail to access PVC box to replace it. Thank you
No, because these boxes work with engine vacuum, piercing the box will not only cause it to no longer work, but may also disrupt the normal engine vacuum which is detrimental for the proper working of the engine.
I need some help with mine... I replaced the PCV system and now I've got some sort of vacuum leak (I'm assuming). The engine cranks for a while before starting, and when it finally does, there is a loud hissing noise coming from the engine. I've narrowed it down to the tube running from the flame trap to the intake "tree" (above the throttle body). The intake is pulling hard on that tube and I have no idea why. Could you help me out please? I'm just a kid tryna fix his car and I would really really appreciate it, thanks
Turbo or non turbo? Could it be a hose wasn't connected at the right place? I'd rather go on forums to get more answers, matthewsvolvosite.com/ forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?12-S60-(2001-2010)
I assume the manifold gasket was replaced and torqued at 15 ft.lb ? Just another idea.. Have you seen this other video ? th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html although I don't remember a hose running from the pcv to the intake manifold except the one at 37:00 (which is difficult to insert back in place). There is another part (not part of the pcv) located right above the starter (can see it's connector at 25:40) which has the thicker vacuum hose running to the intake 'tree': maybe have a look with a mirror see if the hose is still attached. Here's another video showing how those vacuum hoses attach to the manifold th-cam.com/video/aRGn6d2iAGE/w-d-xo.html Is the coolant temp sensor connected and the wires don't look cracked right where they get into the connector?
Everything is tightened properly and looks like it's connected... so I guess I'll have to redo everything. Anyways I'll see what I can do, thank you so much for the help!
These would depend a little if there is a rush, usually when I attack such jobs I like to have plenty of time just in case something goes wrong, or I need a part or even just to go slowly being the first time. I think I took two days for this job so I'm working slow. It's also kind of hard on the lower back because we stay bent a long time. Someone with skills will do it perhaps in 2-3hours on a non turbo engine, and longer on the turbo engine. I did add a few links with the DIY at the end of the video.
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](/img/n.gif)
Nice video! Great to see inside the box. I am about to replace my whole system on a V70 non-turbo with 200,000 miles. I wanted to share this in case anyone else is wondering: please remember that PCV valves can also get stuck OPEN!! I had no idea what was causing my rough idle and lumpy acceleration at times: no engine codes! It turns out the PCV being stuck OPEN can actually cause these issues. You don't get over pressure issues, instead you get too much air/ gas being sucked into the intake, especially at idle/ low RPM. Hope this helps anyone else who has these problems. Great to see inside the box here, and finally understand that yes, these boxes do have valve & diaphragm function, not just an oil trap.
It’s the PCV diaphragm that went bad on my 2009 Volvo C-30 T5 with 89000 miles. Had all the same symptoms and it corrected the issue once I replaced it. About 25 dollars for the part and shipping at IPD USA. Alot better than spending the 200+$ on the whole PCV system. Takes like 10-15 minutes to replace it using an 8 mm socket, flat head screwdriver, and a long wooden cooking spoon lol. It gave the leverage needed to replace the cap in such a tight space.
I'm about to replace my Diaphragm, any other tips?
Volvo made a big mistake with this PCV design. They fail so often while parts and labor are expensive. If you don't replace them, engine will start leaking oil on mid and lower sections. That happens, the repair bill will be crazy.
Well made and explained video !!🤗
Thanks!
I've seen many of your vids, you are a diligent owner. 2002 V70 non-turbo (B5244S).
Absolute golf material
Please replace the PCV box and associated hoses every 8 years or 80000 miles which ever comes first, regardless if the glove test fails or not. The hoses need replaced especially in the turbo engine, despite being quite expensive on online sites as only genuine is available. Don't forget to use new gaskets (manifold, throttle body) and to blow air through the lower engine port (read on forums about it). This is a video for the non turbo engine th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html
You are 100% right. A blocked oil trap could damage other parts. This repair cost my friend $1000. If the oil trap is blocked, how to know if the engine has been damage due to this oil trapped being blocked? Even if you replace it, what symptons of an engine damaged due to this trap?
You have been a great help with my 2002 s60 that I acquired for free from my neighbor. On the non-Turbo's, do you still need to remove fuel rail to access PVC box to replace it. Thank you
May want to ask on this forum www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/
Nice explanation.
Hello, nice video! What's the model of the Volvo you did this job on?
This was on a 2003 S60 non turbo gasoline engine
Wouldn't it be easier to tap a drain plug into the bottom of this, then flush it periodically?
No, because these boxes work with engine vacuum, piercing the box will not only cause it to no longer work, but may also disrupt the normal engine vacuum which is detrimental for the proper working of the engine.
These should be serviceable
I need some help with mine... I replaced the PCV system and now I've got some sort of vacuum leak (I'm assuming). The engine cranks for a while before starting, and when it finally does, there is a loud hissing noise coming from the engine. I've narrowed it down to the tube running from the flame trap to the intake "tree" (above the throttle body). The intake is pulling hard on that tube and I have no idea why. Could you help me out please? I'm just a kid tryna fix his car and I would really really appreciate it, thanks
Turbo or non turbo? Could it be a hose wasn't connected at the right place? I'd rather go on forums to get more answers,
matthewsvolvosite.com/
forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?12-S60-(2001-2010)
Peppermint it's a non turbo. I tried one forum but they were just no help...
I assume the manifold gasket was replaced and torqued at 15 ft.lb ? Just another idea.. Have you seen this other video ? th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html although I don't remember a hose running from the pcv to the intake manifold except the one at 37:00 (which is difficult to insert back in place). There is another part (not part of the pcv) located right above the starter (can see it's connector at 25:40) which has the thicker vacuum hose running to the intake 'tree': maybe have a look with a mirror see if the hose is still attached.
Here's another video showing how those vacuum hoses attach to the manifold th-cam.com/video/aRGn6d2iAGE/w-d-xo.html
Is the coolant temp sensor connected and the wires don't look cracked right where they get into the connector?
Everything is tightened properly and looks like it's connected... so I guess I'll have to redo everything. Anyways I'll see what I can do, thank you so much for the help!
Good luck! I had to redo the pcv as well, sometimes things happen
Great video, thanks! How long did it take you to replace it and how difficult was it?
These would depend a little if there is a rush, usually when I attack such jobs I like to have plenty of time just in case something goes wrong, or I need a part or even just to go slowly being the first time. I think I took two days for this job so I'm working slow. It's also kind of hard on the lower back because we stay bent a long time. Someone with skills will do it perhaps in 2-3hours on a non turbo engine, and longer on the turbo engine. I did add a few links with the DIY at the end of the video.