This is genius but that first lower control arm bolt looks almost exactly like the outer tie rod bolt, which was an absolute nightmare to get off here in NY with all the rust. I'm gonna PB blast the heck out of it for a few days before I try all this just to see if it comes off. If it does, then I will just replace the whole lower control arm. Smart stuff.
Hey brother... so glad I found this video. You remind me of a much younger me when I'd tackle all sorts of repairs. This is on my list! thank you for sharing.
Thanks for going through all the steps - I didn't think of using the screwdriver to align the holes, just hit with the hammer a bunch but I'll try your way on the next one. My car Flex lives in the NE so I am jealous of all those rust-free bolts.
Awesome video! I thought I needed the universal adapter tool kit. Because the bushings/ball joint are ALREADY on the control arm, I don't need them! Woohoo! 3 bolts and the ball joint nut and I'm home free! Great video! Basically in "real time" as well! Thanks!👍👍😁
Awesome brother. Appreciate your knowledge. Thanks for walking me through this. I am going to be doing this on my 2014 Explorer this week. Keep the vids coming.
@@Hoodsaintfishing Hi... I hear a grinding noise and feel a scrubbing on turns and slight turns. I was told that was because of the bushings worn out on the control arm. Does that sound right to you? And will this repair will fix that?
That’s the same lower control arm that’s on a 08 saturn vue xr!........ Really good job, i replaced mine about a year ago with some from 1 a auto and that whole suspension kit i bought from them have to be replaced. Nothing but gm parts from now on.
Thanks so much very helpful!! I had to cut my ball joint off because it wouldn’t unscrew any further after I almost had it all the way off. But then I just got the sawzall on it and cut it off in about 4 mins. I kind of figured it was going to come to that since the state I live in has pretty bad winters and it was the factory arm.
Lol glad it could help. Just make sure you put some good penetrating fluid on there and let it sit overnight if you can. Do me a favor and hit the sub button it really helps the channel!
Just did the rear upper and lower controls arms on my 2015 ford Taurus..doing fronts this weekend..also just got done replacing struts in all 4 corners and rear toe like/lateral links..got sway bar links for all 4 corners coming w/the front control arm kits I ordered..the 3.5 is strong af mines got 152k on the odometer and no engine issue whatsoever..suspension has been different..that shit all needed replacing lol
You did great up until you torqued the wheel lugnuts in completely the wrong sequence! Otherwise good video. Good photography. Not only a clear and sharp image but camera was positioned very well where we could see everything that you were doing. Many videos lack that.
I just did this job my ball joint nuts were frozen. Had to put jack under ball joint’s so they wouldn’t spin when losing the castle nut. Other then that wasn’t that bad.
I also have a 14 and I get this drone over 40mph. One other guy reported this and he replaced this. I've done bushings on much older explorers, but they always just had a clunk. What did you notice that caused you to replace this. My bushing doesn't obviously look bad. New bushings always make an amazing difference in the ride.
I bought that very same control arm from Precision. How's it holding up? I didn't want to pay over $250 for the OEM from Motorcraft if this one will hold up.
This is 1k in savings if you do it yourself. Good video sir. Just be careful when moving the lower ball joint out. I made the mistake of pulling the knuckle outwards and it pulled the axle out. Now the boot is tore and I’m replacing it.
@@NG-tz8wo yeah, im thinking of just doing this prior to an alignment mine needs anyway. New tires, new control arms, new stab links, new tie rod ends.
@@joek0617 I did it because 1 of my tie rod ends were bad. So I replaced all of it both sides. My explorer has 160k on it so I’m hoping it last the rest of the lifetime.
good job. just remember not to tighten down any bushing bolts until the weight of the vehicle is on them. this helps settle the load on the bushing and it wont squeak.
Thanks for this. I’m not mechanical inclined at all so I would definitely need someone to do for me. Can you tell me how much I am looking at to have a reputable shop do for me? As noted below, I think I probably will want to have new stab links and tie rod ends done too. Many thanks!
Hola. Buen video. Justo tengo que cambiar esos control arm de mi explorer. Como te ha ido con esa marca que compraste? Para ver si compro los mismos. Gracias
Hey man, thanks for the video. I’ve spent over 5 hours on the ball joint but. It just spins and spins. I used another jack to lift it under the ball joint but no luck. I was about to get ready to cut the stupid thread/nut but my metal cutting tool doesn’t fit very well in that spot. Not even sure what to do.
What symptoms were you having while driving with the bad bushings? Reason I ask is our 2018 is starting to ride rough over bumps and you can actually feel it in the floorboards. It only has 68,000 miles on it.
I think you made easy work out of this. One suggestion before you tighten your bolts- compress the strut so your bushings are stressed with the normal weight of the vehicle….
Not sure if you ended up getting your answer, but I highly suggest MOOG. They're probably the closest you'll get to OEM without spending nearly $500. Ford wants about $280 a pop, and MOOG is $113 on their site or $94 on Amazon. I'm strapped on cash, car has nearly 215k, so I'm gonna save money now then maybe replace them with OEM later. Just depends on your preference, MOOG does have a outstanding reputation.
@@HoodsaintfishingI had a wheel baring issue and under warranty they changed multiple parts because it was seized, including the control arm but didn’t change the other side
@@jamesreddington2885 yeah they will charge more but it’s up to you if you want to change the other one. You don’t have to. I was just recommending it if you already doing it
That lower ball joint nut its a pain takes wayy too long I just work it out a bit grab my saw saw and cut it off cause new arms came with ball joints and new nuts
Just did both of my wife's '16 Explorer FWD yesterday. Also hit both outer swaybar end links at this time. One side had play at the bottom link and I always replace in pairs. Her SUV had an annoying rattle/knock noise just driving straight down the road. It has 137k on it now. These new parts eliminated that noise. The lower arm rear bushing felt like jello in there. I could wiggle that bushing easily with one hand!!! The new Motorcraft complete replacements were so much more solid. The right lower ball joint had slight play too....
I've already got my control arm off rockauto no way I'm paying Ford 513$⚠️🤣 Ford quoted 286$ for the same part you can get yourself online for 168$ 🤔 Juice alert😭💯 Then they want $98 hr for labor♿️😭 my drunk uncle will throw it on for sum newports&beer🫡🇵🇷😅
Bro you broke it down didnt skip or edit nothing. Thanks very helpful
Glad it helped bro! Sub to the channel!
One of the most helpful videos I've seen in a long time. Thanks
Alot of guys try to tackle JUST that rear bushing on these- Just get the whole lower arm for like $30 bucks more!!
This is genius but that first lower control arm bolt looks almost exactly like the outer tie rod bolt, which was an absolute nightmare to get off here in NY with all the rust. I'm gonna PB blast the heck out of it for a few days before I try all this just to see if it comes off. If it does, then I will just replace the whole lower control arm. Smart stuff.
Hey brother... so glad I found this video. You remind me of a much younger me when I'd tackle all sorts of repairs. This is on my list! thank you for sharing.
Thank you my brother. Hope you get it done! Get that alignment done after you’re done
@@Hoodsaintfishing I did! And honestly, your video made the job so easy. I was on this within days of hand surgery... did it with my split on.
@@kellypayne1096 Awesome! So glad it helped
Thank you for posting, VERY helpful
Great video man, I will be doing this soon
Thanks for going through all the steps - I didn't think of using the screwdriver to align the holes, just hit with the hammer a bunch but I'll try your way on the next one. My car Flex lives in the NE so I am jealous of all those rust-free bolts.
Originally from KC I know what you mean
Awesome video! I thought I needed the universal adapter tool kit. Because the bushings/ball joint are ALREADY on the control arm, I don't need them! Woohoo! 3 bolts and the ball joint nut and I'm home free! Great video! Basically in "real time" as well! Thanks!👍👍😁
Awesome! So glad this helped someone
My thoughts exactly 🫡😅
Awesome job!
Awesome brother. Appreciate your knowledge. Thanks for walking me through this. I am going to be doing this on my 2014 Explorer this week. Keep the vids coming.
Get it bro! You can do it!
@@Hoodsaintfishing Hi... I hear a grinding noise and feel a scrubbing on turns and slight turns. I was told that was because of the bushings worn out on the control arm. Does that sound right to you? And will this repair will fix that?
@@PL2550Dolphins sounds like the wheel bearings. If you replace one replace both
@Hoodsaintfishing ... so the wheel bearings is the same as the front control arms?
@@PL2550Dolphins no, google wheel bearings. Those usually make a grinding noise when the are bad
Great video man.
That’s the same lower control arm that’s on a 08 saturn vue xr!........ Really good job, i replaced mine about a year ago with some from 1 a auto and that whole suspension kit i bought from them have to be replaced. Nothing but gm parts from now on.
Thanks for video brother. Gotta do the wife's explorer next week.
Hope it helps bro!
Thanks so much very helpful!! I had to cut my ball joint off because it wouldn’t unscrew any further after I almost had it all the way off. But then I just got the sawzall on it and cut it off in about 4 mins. I kind of figured it was going to come to that since the state I live in has pretty bad winters and it was the factory arm.
😮
Great video, got a 13 identical to yours that needs this done !
Hope it helps! Do me a favor and hit the subscribe and bell! Helps the channel
Nice video, really is the best school..!!
Regards from Copiapó, Chile.
Saludos Chile!!!
Thanks for the video man, this is what i needed before i tried it myself. I live in Ohio, i'm jealous of how easy you got those bolts out
Lol glad it could help. Just make sure you put some good penetrating fluid on there and let it sit overnight if you can. Do me a favor and hit the sub button it really helps the channel!
I’m in Michigan and I’m jealous of how easy the Ohio guy got his bolts out.
Thanks for the video 👌
Good job !
Just did the rear upper and lower controls arms on my 2015 ford Taurus..doing fronts this weekend..also just got done replacing struts in all 4 corners and rear toe like/lateral links..got sway bar links for all 4 corners coming w/the front control arm kits I ordered..the 3.5 is strong af mines got 152k on the odometer and no engine issue whatsoever..suspension has been different..that shit all needed replacing lol
Buen video sr.
Saludos desde México.
Saludos amigo!
great job.. this convinced me to hire some one.....
Lol
The video help alot
You did great up until you torqued the wheel lugnuts in completely the wrong sequence! Otherwise good video. Good photography. Not only a clear and sharp image but camera was positioned very well where we could see everything that you were doing. Many videos lack that.
Thank you! I try to help people with these. 🙏🏽
I just did this job my ball joint nuts were frozen. Had to put jack under ball joint’s so they wouldn’t spin when losing the castle nut. Other then that wasn’t that bad.
Appreciate it bro. I'm doing a side job an wanted to first see so I can know how much to charge him
Make sure they get an alignment after
Excelente video bro. Una pregunta¿hay que aliniar las ruedas una ves se hace el cambio de esta pieza?
Si!
Great work I just changed the sway bar links on my wife explorer to only find out now I got to change the lower control arms as well 🤦🏿♂️
It’s not bad with the right tools
Be safe as well
I also have a 14 and I get this drone over 40mph. One other guy reported this and he replaced this. I've done bushings on much older explorers, but they always just had a clunk. What did you notice that caused you to replace this. My bushing doesn't obviously look bad. New bushings always make an amazing difference in the ride.
After replacing I still notice a clunk. I believe it’s coming from the drivers side cv axle
@@Hoodsaintfishing strut bearings is the clunk
I bought that very same control arm from Precision. How's it holding up?
I didn't want to pay over $250 for the OEM from Motorcraft if this one will hold up.
I had to cut my bolts off with a Makita multi tool. Took about 5 minutes with a hardened steel blade. Got both cut with one Rockwell blade.
Rockwell multitool goes hard too
Same here! Cussin up a storm the whole tjme
This is 1k in savings if you do it yourself. Good video sir. Just be careful when moving the lower ball joint out. I made the mistake of pulling the knuckle outwards and it pulled the axle out. Now the boot is tore and I’m replacing it.
Use a strap
@@joek0617 def will next time
@@NG-tz8wo yeah, im thinking of just doing this prior to an alignment mine needs anyway. New tires, new control arms, new stab links, new tie rod ends.
@@joek0617 I did it because 1 of my tie rod ends were bad. So I replaced all of it both sides. My explorer has 160k on it so I’m hoping it last the rest of the lifetime.
good job. just remember not to tighten down any bushing bolts until the weight of the vehicle is on them. this helps settle the load on the bushing and it wont squeak.
Thanks for this. I’m not mechanical inclined at all so I would definitely need someone to do for me. Can you tell me how much I am looking at to have a reputable shop do for me? As noted below, I think I probably will want to have new stab links and tie rod ends done too. Many thanks!
Probably looking at around $800 total for parts and labor
@@Hoodsaintfishing That sounds reasonable for everything, Thanks! Great video BTW
Hola. Buen video. Justo tengo que cambiar esos control arm de mi explorer. Como te ha ido con esa marca que compraste? Para ver si compro los mismos. Gracias
Bien
My turn thank you sir
Hey man, thanks for the video. I’ve spent over 5 hours on the ball joint but. It just spins and spins. I used another jack to lift it under the ball joint but no luck. I was about to get ready to cut the stupid thread/nut but my metal cutting tool doesn’t fit very well in that spot. Not even sure what to do.
I used a dremel to cut the nut off.
@@user-kj6be8kg6b
Yeah I bought the nice nifty Milwaukee small metal cutter.
Not sure what you mean I’d have to see
@@Hoodsaintfishing
I got it. I had to cut it off with an angle grinder.
What symptoms were you having while driving with the bad bushings? Reason I ask is our 2018 is starting to ride rough over bumps and you can actually feel it in the floorboards. It only has 68,000 miles on it.
It was more of a knocking sound
I think you made easy work out of this. One suggestion before you tighten your bolts- compress the strut so your bushings are stressed with the normal weight of the vehicle….
Thanks for the tip
Do you need a wheel aligment after changing the control arms?
Yes.
How did the control arm hold up quality wise and did you hear any rattling noise?
Held up great. No rattling
How is the control arm holding up trying to buy one but don't trust aftermarket parts
Not sure if you ended up getting your answer, but I highly suggest MOOG. They're probably the closest you'll get to OEM without spending nearly $500. Ford wants about $280 a pop, and MOOG is $113 on their site or $94 on Amazon. I'm strapped on cash, car has nearly 215k, so I'm gonna save money now then maybe replace them with OEM later. Just depends on your preference, MOOG does have a outstanding reputation.
Hi, is this the same procedure with the driver's side arm???
Yessir!
Nice bully
great video but would be a lot easier if you have a correct box/open end wrenches instead of using a adjustable wrench.
I agree lol
Where did you get your lower control arm from
O’Reilly
You need alignment after replacing the control arm?
Yes
will this work on a 2016?
Not sure
If you change one side, should you change the other side as well?
I would recommend that yes
@@HoodsaintfishingI had a wheel baring issue and under warranty they changed multiple parts because it was seized, including the control arm but didn’t change the other side
@@jamesreddington2885 yeah they will charge more but it’s up to you if you want to change the other one. You don’t have to. I was just recommending it if you already doing it
Did you have any symptoms before the A arm replacement?
You need a alignment after that as well...
Absolutely
That lower ball joint nut its a pain takes wayy too long I just work it out a bit grab my saw saw and cut it off cause new arms came with ball joints and new nuts
Thanks for the tip bro! Makes sense too
Everything I read says to torque that to 295# I feel like I'm gonna snap it
Did your have lots of road noise?
No, with these it’s more clunking noises
How many miles was on this one to warrant new lower control arms??
Over 100k
Just did both of my wife's '16 Explorer FWD yesterday. Also hit both outer swaybar end links at this time. One side had play at the bottom link and I always replace in pairs.
Her SUV had an annoying rattle/knock noise just driving straight down the road. It has 137k on it now.
These new parts eliminated that noise. The lower arm rear bushing felt like jello in there. I could wiggle that bushing easily with one hand!!! The new Motorcraft complete replacements were so much more solid. The right lower ball joint had slight play too....
@@COWBOYZNATION yeah we had an annoying knock too
@@Hoodsaintfishing Well, thanks for the video. It helps us "shade tree" mechanics before we decide to tackle the job on our own. 👍
@@COWBOYZNATION glad I could provide some value to my subs
i did this but i believe i blew out the ball joints not sure how?
Wow! On the new ones??
Mexicanos por favor 🙏 fijensen bien por quien estarían votando
Sabes ruidos ase cuando está dañado control arm
Puede aser varios ruidos. Tiene que chekar tambien los struts
Me hace el favor de suscribir!
links to prod please
www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2014/ford/explorer/suspension/control_arm.html?rp=control_arm_and_ball_joint_assembly_set
Got you bro
@MrBriandrifter
@@Hoodsaintfishing thank you so much bro. so how is it so far since you changed?
@@MrBriandrifter works great no problems at all
would've been so much easier on a lift
I can't hear you that well
Your volume must be low. No one has told me anything about the audio
Передний сайлентблок надо затягивать на загруженной подвеске. В вашем случае он быстро выйдет из строя, т.к. постоянно будет в напряжении.
I've already got my control arm off rockauto no way I'm paying Ford 513$⚠️🤣 Ford quoted 286$ for the same part you can get yourself online for 168$ 🤔 Juice alert😭💯
Then they want $98 hr for labor♿️😭 my drunk uncle will throw it on for sum newports&beer🫡🇵🇷😅