Hi colt, this is an old problem in the sense that Petter Diesel engines had a similar set up with the AA, AB, AC range that had a horizontal fork that had to line up with a ball rack on top of the fuel pump. The people at the time who worked on these engines knew all the small details about these things and could make a good job of repairing them. In a lot of cases now, the skills are not there anymore. Thanks for the video.
A lot of military surplus machines are getting messed up because the troops don't know! You just need to take the time. Once you get it, it clicks. I love figuring things out. Thanks for watching the video!
My Friend, I have been struggling with my new to me 803a with no throttle control, and no shut off, and run away engine. Your video was spot on and explained exactly why I could not get the injectors out. Mine had a jammed rail from previous incorrect pump installation. . THANKS for a PERFECT video!
Excellent demonstration and explanation. I have a brand new LPW3 that hasn't ever been used except for a test run in 2014. Working on getting it started at this time. Thanks !
Really helpful, thanks, I've a LPWS4 in a narrowboat and I think the two middle pumps are not pumping. I had no idea what was involved but you have given me the confidence to have a go.
Found this video very helpful , thank you, I got one pump in easily but the other one was very awkward, after about an hour I realized that the cam was in the up position, I was pushing against the spring, after I turned the engine a couple of times it went straight in, but when I get the engine turning properly it will not fire , I can't get diesel out of the injector connection, I know it's been standing for a good few years, but it's been stored inside, any advice would be great thanks
Fuel is getting to the pumps? If so, the pumps themselves may need to be taken apart & cleaned. Fuel may have gotten crusty in there & caused a blockage. Or, not enough fuel is being called for by the rail.
@@CallMeColtLLC thanks, I did have the pumps apart and clean them, but I didn't check the pipes from pumps to injectors, will look again over weekend, I'll let you know the outcome, thanks for your advice
I had a quick look this afternoon, fuel is getting to the pumps and comes through the pumps until I tighten the top of the pumps down then it won't come through, do you know whether the lift pump should be able to push diesel through the injector pumps by hand, the lift pump doesn't seem to have much pressure either by hand or by cranking the engine, thanks for your advice, very much appreciated.
Cheers for that video I have the same engine in a dumper I've just bought the throttle has a lot of playing it and when you start it it runs away. Could the play in the throttle make it run away
I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them. Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine. Try and try and nothing. It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them. Any idea why it wouldn't crank now? I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel. Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in. Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out. Please help if you can.
Hi thanks for the video,I have a LPW 4silinder enjin and the fuel shut will only move a few inches. It can def be the fuelcam. What is the best/ easies way to fix it? Don't think the Injectors will come out so how tdo I fix the tailor get the injectors in the right position. I build the enjin in my boat and is difficult to work in there. The enjin was newly overhauled but I bought it from the widow of the person who let it done. Please help. Thanks
How did you fix the fuel rail? I have the same problem. Don't think I will get the injectors out so how do you get the rail out and the injectors in the right position?
You will just need to spend a lot of time rotating them and working them out one at a time to get them out since they were not installed properly and probably are under the fuel rail I show that should be held in place when installing the injection pumps. There's no other way besides a full engine disassembly to make it easier.
Hey Colt, I’m having a situation you may be able to give me some insight on. I bought 3 802a gens, 2 ran fine one ran the last time the seller tried it but didn’t run when I received it. I’ve narrowed it down to the levers on the IPs jumping out of the rail. I did come across a thread on SS about the sticky rail issue but it didn’t have a clear solution. I’ve pulled both IPs, reinstalled them and the gen starts and runs fine. Shut it off and it will not restart. I’ve discovered that I can pull the left IP, stick my finger down and get the rail to move, reinstall the IP and it starts every time. I’ve done this 4 times in a row today so I know I’ve found my issue (sticky rail, or the levers jumping the rail) any advice sir? Thanks, Neil.
Just watched your clip and thanks for it. I have a 25 kva lpwt4a81 generator and it won't shut down when I switch off the control key. Everything you have explained , I think, I've done right but it still won't switch off. I turn the key to the off position then I have to go to the generator and turn the solenoid cam to the extreme left and wait a couple of seconds for the engine to die down and eventually off. Could there be another problem?.
I have no idea on the exact generator, but, it sounds like it. Is there a throttle control on the generator that you can adjust manually while it's running & it responds? If it responds properly than this probably isn't your issue. If it doesn't, it may be.
@@CallMeColtLLC thanks a lot for your reply, sorry I wasn't more specific. It's a Lister Petter 25 kva generator. it does have a throttle control, but it's pre set and blocked. What I was thinking of doing is opening the throttle control cover and having a look inside. It's stressing me out as I'm in Africa and we have daily power cuts for at least 4 hours. TIA.
Hey Colt, really appreciate this video. Helped me get my gen started. I’m having a leaking issue where the shims are at, Do you have any idea how many shims are suppose to be there to help get a tight seal?
Hey Colt, Very Very helpful and informative video. I understood it very well and I'm sure it will shed a lot of light on the problem someone is having giving their Lister or Petter engine a overhaul. Well Done and Thank You. :-)
OK first problem, before I started I realise that the fuel rail/fuel cut-off doesn't move more than a few mm. Is there an interlock or is it jammed I wonder
@@CallMeColtLLC I thought the same but the throttle moves freely, aren't they both linked to the governor rail? My worry is that I won't be able to get the pumps out if the rail stays in its present position
@@edgar-valentine The throttle isn't directly linked, it is also attached to the governor. So it will move even if the actual fuel output will not. It's all hard to say without seeing it. Just keep at it!
in my case i can blow air through the 2nd injector, but the other 3 i cannot. was searching for a way to disassemble them to clean them but im all out of ideas. i tried to loosen it but to no avail
Hey Colt Excellent video tutorial. How many Mep-802a do you have. I’m looking at one . The guy has price tag of $3500 on it. I’m looking local for one because I can’t travel too far to check ones out. What if any special tools do you need to work on these engines. I work on small engines now.
I have only one. There's not really any special tools you need unless you are going to do major engine repairs. $3,500 is a fair price if it's 100% working.
I'm glad it did! That is why I make a lot of my videos, to help people out.... because I was there needing that advice myself at one point & couldn't find it.
@@CallMeColtLLC I fully understand the video is trying to explain the removal and fitment only, and not the injection timing. As you say you are not installing any of the shims for this reason. I am talking of the fitting of the pumps. The rack needs to be held in the correct position at a certain measurement and not by using the stop on the end cover.
@@stevelacey3587 The military manual doesn't say this, at least the one I have. If it does say otherwise, can you please provide where it says to do it differently? Is it in a Lister manual or Onan manual? It wouldn't surprise me if the Technical Manual is incorrect. In other equipment, I have found mistakes.
I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them. Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine. Try and try and nothing. It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them. Any idea why it wouldn't crank now? I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel. Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in. Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out. Please help if you can.
@@stevelacey3587I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them. Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine. Try and try and nothing. It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them. Any idea why it wouldn't crank now? I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel. Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in. Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out. Please help if you can.
If you happen to get a second Mr. Colt; What could possibly cause this? th-cam.com/users/shortsoOISCBmYNK4 I'm sure the metering arms are in the rack, and rotated towards the block, and the freq adjustment should not be so far out of wack and my machine looks like its going to explode..
upon further investigation, i've considered this to be because of improperly rebuilt fuel pumps. I have an extensive steel soilders thread going, and i'm pretty sure improperly alignment of the fuel pump plunger and barrell caused this max fuel. I'm hoping anyway new pumps ordered and i'll find out. Thanks for the reply, im also a customer and fan of yours!@@CallMeColtLLC
Hi colt, this is an old problem in the sense that Petter Diesel engines had a similar set up with the AA, AB, AC range that had a horizontal fork that had to line up with a ball rack on top of the fuel pump. The people at the time who worked on these engines knew all the small details about these things and could make a good job of repairing them. In a lot of cases now, the skills are not there anymore. Thanks for the video.
A lot of military surplus machines are getting messed up because the troops don't know! You just need to take the time. Once you get it, it clicks. I love figuring things out. Thanks for watching the video!
My Friend, I have been struggling with my new to me 803a with no throttle control, and no shut off, and run away engine. Your video was spot on and explained exactly why I could not get the injectors out. Mine had a jammed rail from previous incorrect pump installation. . THANKS for a PERFECT video!
Glad it was helpful! That's why I make them. 😎
How did you fix the rail ? Have same problem. How do you get the injectors out/ in the correct position?
@@danielbriers5017 same here
Excellent demonstration and explanation. I have a brand new LPW3 that hasn't ever been used except for a test run in 2014. Working on getting it started at this time. Thanks !
Glad it was helpful and good luck!
Really helpful, thanks, I've a LPWS4 in a narrowboat and I think the two middle pumps are not pumping. I had no idea what was involved but you have given me the confidence to have a go.
Go for it!
Thank you for sharing - this is exactly what I needed to see
Glad it was helpful!
Found this video very helpful , thank you, I got one pump in easily but the other one was very awkward, after about an hour I realized that the cam was in the up position, I was pushing against the spring, after I turned the engine a couple of times it went straight in, but when I get the engine turning properly it will not fire , I can't get diesel out of the injector connection, I know it's been standing for a good few years, but it's been stored inside, any advice would be great thanks
Fuel is getting to the pumps? If so, the pumps themselves may need to be taken apart & cleaned. Fuel may have gotten crusty in there & caused a blockage. Or, not enough fuel is being called for by the rail.
@@CallMeColtLLC thanks, I did have the pumps apart and clean them, but I didn't check the pipes from pumps to injectors, will look again over weekend, I'll let you know the outcome, thanks for your advice
I had a quick look this afternoon, fuel is getting to the pumps and comes through the pumps until I tighten the top of the pumps down then it won't come through, do you know whether the lift pump should be able to push diesel through the injector pumps by hand, the lift pump doesn't seem to have much pressure either by hand or by cranking the engine, thanks for your advice, very much appreciated.
Cheers for that video I have the same engine in a dumper I've just bought the throttle has a lot of playing it and when you start it it runs away. Could the play in the throttle make it run away
Really depends on the setup, but sounds like something with the internals more than anything.
@@CallMeColtLLC thanks for letting me know I'll have to pull the engine out to have a good look hopefully it's nothing serious cheers
I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful
I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them.
Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine.
Try and try and nothing.
It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them.
Any idea why it wouldn't crank now?
I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel.
Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in.
Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out.
Please help if you can.
Sounds like you installed improperly & jammed the common rail against the pumps when trying to start.
@@CallMeColtLLC im not totally sure how i could have jammed it? what do you mean?
Hi thanks for the video,I have a LPW 4silinder enjin and the fuel shut will only move a few inches. It can def be the fuelcam. What is the best/ easies way to fix it? Don't think the Injectors will come out so how tdo I fix the tailor get the injectors in the right position. I build the enjin in my boat and is difficult to work in there. The enjin was newly overhauled but I bought it from the widow of the person who let it done. Please help. Thanks
How did you fix the fuel rail? I have the same problem. Don't think I will get the injectors out so how do you get the rail out and the injectors in the right position?
You will just need to spend a lot of time rotating them and working them out one at a time to get them out since they were not installed properly and probably are under the fuel rail I show that should be held in place when installing the injection pumps. There's no other way besides a full engine disassembly to make it easier.
Do you have a video of head removal or piston replacement
I don't have that, if it's that bad, I will not go any farther.
Really nice explanation of the injection pump mechanism. Thank you 🙏
Glad it was helpful, please share with anyone else that may need the help!
Hey Colt, I’m having a situation you may be able to give me some insight on. I bought 3 802a gens, 2 ran fine one ran the last time the seller tried it but didn’t run when I received it. I’ve narrowed it down to the levers on the IPs jumping out of the rail. I did come across a thread on SS about the sticky rail issue but it didn’t have a clear solution. I’ve pulled both IPs, reinstalled them and the gen starts and runs fine. Shut it off and it will not restart. I’ve discovered that I can pull the left IP, stick my finger down and get the rail to move, reinstall the IP and it starts every time. I’ve done this 4 times in a row today so I know I’ve found my issue (sticky rail, or the levers jumping the rail) any advice sir?
Thanks, Neil.
Open it up & replace that rail. It's the only option if the rail is the issue & you want to fix it properly.
@@CallMeColtLLCThank you. I appreciate the reply.
Just watched your clip and thanks for it. I have a 25 kva lpwt4a81 generator and it won't shut down when I switch off the control key. Everything you have explained , I think, I've done right but it still won't switch off. I turn the key to the off position then I have to go to the generator and turn the solenoid cam to the extreme left and wait a couple of seconds for the engine to die down and eventually off. Could there be another problem?.
I have no idea on the exact generator, but, it sounds like it. Is there a throttle control on the generator that you can adjust manually while it's running & it responds? If it responds properly than this probably isn't your issue. If it doesn't, it may be.
@@CallMeColtLLC thanks a lot for your reply, sorry I wasn't more specific. It's a Lister Petter 25 kva generator. it does have a throttle control, but it's pre set and blocked. What I was thinking of doing is opening the throttle control cover and having a look inside. It's stressing me out as I'm in Africa and we have daily power cuts for at least 4 hours. TIA.
Hey Colt, really appreciate this video. Helped me get my gen started. I’m having a leaking issue where the shims are at, Do you have any idea how many shims are suppose to be there to help get a tight seal?
Shims adjust the timing. None are needed to seal. It's probably a fuel leak from the incoming line at the barb.
good explanation. Good teacher.
Thanks!
Hey Colt, Very Very helpful and informative video. I understood it very well and I'm sure it will shed a lot of light on the problem someone is having giving their Lister or Petter engine a overhaul. Well Done and Thank You. :-)
No problem. Feedback means a lot, thank you!
I'm going to try and take out one of my LPWS4 injectors tomorrow to see why it's not 'spitting' diesel.
OK first problem, before I started I realise that the fuel rail/fuel cut-off doesn't move more than a few mm. Is there an interlock or is it jammed I wonder
You probably have an injection pump that is stuck.
@@CallMeColtLLC I thought the same but the throttle moves freely, aren't they both linked to the governor rail? My worry is that I won't be able to get the pumps out if the rail stays in its present position
@@edgar-valentine The throttle isn't directly linked, it is also attached to the governor. So it will move even if the actual fuel output will not. It's all hard to say without seeing it. Just keep at it!
in my case i can blow air through the 2nd injector, but the other 3 i cannot.
was searching for a way to disassemble them to clean them but im all out of ideas. i tried to loosen it but to no avail
I do not talk about injectors in this video.
@@CallMeColtLLC injector pump is what I meant
@@Roam865 👍 sounds like it is jammed. Open and clean it up!
@CallMeColtLLC when I got it opened I seen that the top that screws in can actually block fuel it screwed too tightly.
Hey Colt What if any special tools needed to work on these Mep-802a units ? I’m looking at purchasing one I’ve seen. Nice video tutorial
Basic tools really, unless you get into major repairs.
Hey Colt Excellent video tutorial. How many Mep-802a do you have. I’m looking at one . The guy has price tag of $3500 on it. I’m looking local for one because I can’t travel too far to check ones out. What if any special tools do you need to work on these engines. I work on small engines now.
I have only one. There's not really any special tools you need unless you are going to do major engine repairs. $3,500 is a fair price if it's 100% working.
that was awesome - much respect😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
This video is amazing help to pull the injection pump
Thanks for letting me know. Always nice to know the videos are really helping people out there! 👍
Very good helped me immensely Marvin
I'm glad it did! That is why I make a lot of my videos, to help people out.... because I was there needing that advice myself at one point & couldn't find it.
Thank you for the video 🥰
You’re welcome 😊
thank you very helpful
You're welcome
Great explanation!
Thanks!
How can I get this lp 2 cylinder
It has since been thrown away.
Having trubble with my lpw3 reves like you said runaway
Hola como esta oiga yo instaló esas bombas de una manera rápida y menos complicada y con más limpieza
Thanks a lot
You're welcome
If that's how people fit, and set up the injection pumps it's no wonder some of these engines run badly. It certainly is not how to set them up.
Did I say that's how they're setup? I said (and it's in the title) this is how you remove or install them, NOT properly time them.
@@CallMeColtLLC I fully understand the video is trying to explain the removal and fitment only, and not the injection timing. As you say you are not installing any of the shims for this reason. I am talking of the fitting of the pumps. The rack needs to be held in the correct position at a certain measurement and not by using the stop on the end cover.
@@stevelacey3587 The military manual doesn't say this, at least the one I have. If it does say otherwise, can you please provide where it says to do it differently? Is it in a Lister manual or Onan manual? It wouldn't surprise me if the Technical Manual is incorrect. In other equipment, I have found mistakes.
I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful
I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them.
Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine.
Try and try and nothing.
It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them.
Any idea why it wouldn't crank now?
I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel.
Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in.
Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out.
Please help if you can.
@@stevelacey3587I seriously need some help, any advice is helpful
I got all 4 pumps in by making sure the tappet was all the way down before installing them.
Satisfied with my work and the tension on the speed adjuster that controls the flow for the pumps I tried to start the engine.
Try and try and nothing.
It ran before I took out the pumps to clean them.
Any idea why it wouldn't crank now?
I've bled the air all the way to the injector before starting, pulled the fuel line to see if I somehow got an air lock but I didn't have one. It was all fuel.
Tried to start again and t h e motor barely wants to turn with charger plugged in.
Tried to remove the pumps to see if there was an issue with them but they now have so much pressure I can't take the pumps out.
Please help if you can.
If you happen to get a second Mr. Colt; What could possibly cause this?
th-cam.com/users/shortsoOISCBmYNK4
I'm sure the metering arms are in the rack, and rotated towards the block, and the freq adjustment should not be so far out of wack and my machine looks like its going to explode..
The link is dead.
upon further investigation, i've considered this to be because of improperly rebuilt fuel pumps. I have an extensive steel soilders thread going, and i'm pretty sure improperly alignment of the fuel pump plunger and barrell caused this max fuel. I'm hoping anyway new pumps ordered and i'll find out. Thanks for the reply, im also a customer and fan of yours!@@CallMeColtLLC
@@ericrudofsky5648 The pumps are pretty easy to take apart and put back together, try taking it apart and reassembling it. Can't hurt!
tie the rack off in position with a zip tie
Great idea!
mEH tEknIcAl ManUaL
Mekanix