The hand brakes and assistance in getting home was invaluable! I'm looking for a unit like the one you have but I am waaaaay over here in Northern Nevada!
The battle short switch apparently is intended to bypass all safety features and make the generator run until it destroys itself. In other words if you have low oil pressure or other conditions that are preventing it from operating normally and safely in a life and death situation you can use the battle short to get the generator to continue to operate until it stops operating from melting down or destroying itself.
@@dieselpackgarage8796 it was one of those "mystery" features that I wanted to know the use of so I researched it. The generator won't start if that switch is on, which you discovered. It only works when the generator is already running.
You have an interesting engine preheater kit installed that I haven’t seen before. The engine preheater toggle switch in the center of the control panel is not on most of the MEP-802A and MEP-803A generators. You also have a “T” plumbed into the lower radiator hose with a small line going up to a device on your upper right (on the manual crank switch side of the engine). It looks like another antifreeze/coolant hose running towards the other side of the engine. I am wondering if that is a diesel fired coolant heater and wondered if you could show a little more detail on that.
Hey there, sorry for this delay. In the next few weeks I'll be showing another unit I bought and I'll be sure to compare the setups and show that in better detail. Thank you for calling out what it was bc I had no idea!!
I had a similar issue with my 802a. The issue ended up being a clogged fuel line that feed the same injector pump that you pulled out. Mine would fire up and run very rough bc it’s only running on one cylinder. Make sure both injectors are receiving fuel and try it again. When it’s running correctly it shouldn’t smoke. As for the unit not shutting off when you turn the key is probably a jammed lever arm that’s connected to the throttle cable. The arm MUST go all the way out (towards the radiator) to shut the fuel supply off.
Awesome, I got it to run smoothly (video coming out soon about that), but it still takes about 30 seconds to shut down agyer I cut the switch. Any idea how to clean that arm to allow full travel?
Whenever I reinstall the arm to the fuel supply lever I have the silver slotted arm pushed all the way forward and tighten the screw. I can see in the video yours is set all the way back on the arm. If that makes sense 9:29 is a good view of the piece I am referring to just above the oil filter.
Awesome, thank you. The silver arm seems to just slide in there and not be held super tight by the nut, so I'll have to play with it and see. I appreciate the insight!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 You can see how to adjust everything in the technical manual for the machine or ask in steelsoldiers forum where we all have and work on these, I personally have the 803a which is just the 4cyl version of this, very good generators for sure, to my knowledge that arm should just mainly control shut off and on and the black knob on the front is how you set the engine speed (i have mine at 61.5hz with no load), so you should be able to adjust that arm so it instantly shuts down when off and use the knob on front to adjust rpm (also the gauges are usually inaccurate so double check hz with multimeter, also the panel lights dont need to be on on that model or the 803 for that matter) again just follow the technical manual for the machine and get everything adjusted! GL
Anyone else notice that when cranking over the closed caption generator says "laughing"? From this day on if i am struggling to start up a piece of equipment and it cranks without firing i will feel like it's laughing at me.
Interesting video, in following your efforts to get your machine running I noticed that your machine has a T and hose installed in the suction line to the coolant pump. I have a year2000 version of this machine and that line is not on mine. I'm wondering what that line goes to, a block heater, or perhaps coolant filter??? Also is there a return line and if so where does it return to? Thanks
Are you able to describe where that T is found? I'm honestly fairly ignorant on these, so I'm not sure offhand. But I am more than happy to trace it out and let you know what I find!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 Sure, a clear picture of it can be seen at 24:29 where you are pointing at the shutdown solenoid. The large black hose in the center of the image that is attached to the coolant pump at its top and the radiator inlet at its bottom. This hose has a T at its center with a black hose running up and to the right. That hose appears to be attached to something in the top of that compartment. I'd be interested to know what that item is (block heater, coolant filter, ?). If it has an electrical cord then I'd guess block heater, or, a filter then coolant filter. Also there should be a return hose, where does that/what does that connect to?
No adaption required! The pintle just went on, it does tilt the whole trailer forward a bit bc the trailblazer's hitch sits a bit low. Also the trailer lights don't work, but a pair of magnetic trailer lights and I just pulled it as normal.
Mostly the price. Now that I've pulled them I can pop them out and get them cleaned up pretty easy. I don't recall the exact price but they weren't very cheap to buy new ones. These typically just get gummed up from sitting.
Got it fixed up and running with minimal issues. Definitely was a lot of reading and researching, but well worth it. I've used it some, but currently have it on the market to sell and grab something bigger most likely. This size does fit my current needs well, but I'm looking to grab a model that can run larger industrial equipment for future plans.
Unless you have the Fuel line open somewhere past the pump and first line, running that Fuel pump doesn't "Air out" anything. It doesn't Bleed anything either. It should build pressure and then the pump slows in its speed of pumping. I've worked on Many engines with electric out of the tank fuel pumps. They do Not work as your being told via comments or your statements. Good luck. Hopefully you've done some reading or studying up on diesel or gas systems.
That does make a lot of sense and I wholly agree with you. Thank you for calling this out to help others, at the time for some reason on my mind I was thinking it would bleed the system via the return. But you're certainly right, as that's why you crack an injector open to bleed a system. Makes perfect sense now I just wasn't thinking at the time haha
I have 2 of them. This one I believe I was around $1700 after auction fees. If I were to buy another I'd sit and wait a little longer and try to get around the $1500 mark likely. I did buy my second, 10kw for about $1600, but didn't pay attention and it was 400 hertz. So essentially a paperweight for anyone in the civilian market 😂
I do agree with your sentiment however I think it is slightly misplaced in this situation. I don't think I ignored anything. I called out the issue that I saw and then got the materials needed to fix it shortly after. So while I agree that it was not fixed immediately on camera I did remedy it once I had materials.
I dont necessarily agree. I am certainly not the most knowledgeable on plenty of things. I have to start learning sometime, right? If I break something on my own machine then I get to learn how to fix it and not break it in the future. A lot of this is just tinkering around and learning as I go.
I absolutely agree. However, the problem is broadcasting your errors to the whole world and people taking this as good advise or proper instruction. I realize this is the world we live in now which is why younger generations are getting dumber.
@dvsmotions I can see the lense you're viewing this from; however I don't agree with how you are applying it. A lot of my videos I call out that it's my first time working on whatever machine and my knowledge comes from Google/TH-cam. So yes, I do my best, but some things I do may not be the best guidance. Sometimes in videos I'll backtrack and handle it a different way bc I realized my error. But in my opinion that's why TH-cam and the internet in general should be taken with a grain of salt. Over time I'll gain knowledge and improve, but for now I post my learning process which includes my mistakes. I get guidance in comments fairly often, my goal is to learn and grow, which is what I do here, and it can help others at times as well.
@@dieselpackgarage8796 I give you tremendous Credit. You Can't become an expert until you get your hands dirty and try to troubleshoot it. Your video was interesting and helpful to someone who buys one. I would Just suggest a bright light shining into the unit so that we (and you) could see better in terms of what you are doing.
The hand brakes and assistance in getting home was invaluable! I'm looking for a unit like the one you have but I am waaaaay over here in Northern Nevada!
Definitely helped me out being new. Good luck on the unit!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 thank you! Blessed New Year to You and Your Family!
y4118 thank you, and same to you as well!!
The battle short switch apparently is intended to bypass all safety features and make the generator run until it destroys itself. In other words if you have low oil pressure or other conditions that are preventing it from operating normally and safely in a life and death situation you can use the battle short to get the generator to continue to operate until it stops operating from melting down or destroying itself.
Thanks for the clarification!! My buddy said that, but I don't think it made it into any videos. I appreciate the insight!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 it was one of those "mystery" features that I wanted to know the use of so I researched it. The generator won't start if that switch is on, which you discovered. It only works when the generator is already running.
You have an interesting engine preheater kit installed that I haven’t seen before. The engine preheater toggle switch in the center of the control panel is not on most of the MEP-802A and MEP-803A generators. You also have a “T” plumbed into the lower radiator hose with a small line going up to a device on your upper right (on the manual crank switch side of the engine). It looks like another antifreeze/coolant hose running towards the other side of the engine. I am wondering if that is a diesel fired coolant heater and wondered if you could show a little more detail on that.
Hey there, sorry for this delay. In the next few weeks I'll be showing another unit I bought and I'll be sure to compare the setups and show that in better detail. Thank you for calling out what it was bc I had no idea!!
I had a similar issue with my 802a. The issue ended up being a clogged fuel line that feed the same injector pump that you pulled out. Mine would fire up and run very rough bc it’s only running on one cylinder. Make sure both injectors are receiving fuel and try it again. When it’s running correctly it shouldn’t smoke. As for the unit not shutting off when you turn the key is probably a jammed lever arm that’s connected to the throttle cable. The arm MUST go all the way out (towards the radiator) to shut the fuel supply off.
Awesome, I got it to run smoothly (video coming out soon about that), but it still takes about 30 seconds to shut down agyer I cut the switch. Any idea how to clean that arm to allow full travel?
Whenever I reinstall the arm to the fuel supply lever I have the silver slotted arm pushed all the way forward and tighten the screw. I can see in the video yours is set all the way back on the arm. If that makes sense 9:29 is a good view of the piece I am referring to just above the oil filter.
Awesome, thank you. The silver arm seems to just slide in there and not be held super tight by the nut, so I'll have to play with it and see. I appreciate the insight!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 You can see how to adjust everything in the technical manual for the machine or ask in steelsoldiers forum where we all have and work on these, I personally have the 803a which is just the 4cyl version of this, very good generators for sure, to my knowledge that arm should just mainly control shut off and on and the black knob on the front is how you set the engine speed (i have mine at 61.5hz with no load), so you should be able to adjust that arm so it instantly shuts down when off and use the knob on front to adjust rpm (also the gauges are usually inaccurate so double check hz with multimeter, also the panel lights dont need to be on on that model or the 803 for that matter) again just follow the technical manual for the machine and get everything adjusted! GL
@@icey_projects you are the guy we all want as a neighbor! Blessings and Health to You and Your Family!
Anyone else notice that when cranking over the closed caption generator says "laughing"? From this day on if i am struggling to start up a piece of equipment and it cranks without firing i will feel like it's laughing at me.
That is hilarious. I have never noticed that. I often do feel like things are mocking me, so that seems fitting 😂
Interesting video, in following your efforts to get your machine running I noticed that your machine has a T and hose installed in the suction line to the coolant pump. I have a year2000 version of this machine and that line is not on mine. I'm wondering what that line goes to, a block heater, or perhaps coolant filter??? Also is there a return line and if so where does it return to? Thanks
Are you able to describe where that T is found? I'm honestly fairly ignorant on these, so I'm not sure offhand. But I am more than happy to trace it out and let you know what I find!!
@@dieselpackgarage8796 Sure, a clear picture of it can be seen at 24:29 where you are pointing at the shutdown solenoid. The large black hose in the center of the image that is attached to the coolant pump at its top and the radiator inlet at its bottom. This hose has a T at its center with a black hose running up and to the right. That hose appears to be attached to something in the top of that compartment. I'd be interested to know what that item is (block heater, coolant filter, ?). If it has an electrical cord then I'd guess block heater, or, a filter then coolant filter. Also there should be a return hose, where does that/what does that connect to?
Want one of these so bad. How did you adapt the pintle hitch to your trailblazer?
No adaption required! The pintle just went on, it does tilt the whole trailer forward a bit bc the trailblazer's hitch sits a bit low. Also the trailer lights don't work, but a pair of magnetic trailer lights and I just pulled it as normal.
Why not just replace injectors?
Mostly the price. Now that I've pulled them I can pop them out and get them cleaned up pretty easy. I don't recall the exact price but they weren't very cheap to buy new ones. These typically just get gummed up from sitting.
Chris Griffin is quite the mechanic!
If it works it works 😂
Hey How you doing with the Mep 802
I’m looking for one myself
Got it fixed up and running with minimal issues. Definitely was a lot of reading and researching, but well worth it. I've used it some, but currently have it on the market to sell and grab something bigger most likely. This size does fit my current needs well, but I'm looking to grab a model that can run larger industrial equipment for future plans.
Hey I’m interested
Looking to get a Mep802
Unless you have the Fuel line open somewhere past the pump and first line, running that Fuel pump doesn't "Air out" anything. It doesn't Bleed anything either. It should build pressure and then the pump slows in its speed of pumping. I've worked on Many engines with electric out of the tank fuel pumps. They do Not work as your being told via comments or your statements. Good luck. Hopefully you've done some reading or studying up on diesel or gas systems.
That does make a lot of sense and I wholly agree with you. Thank you for calling this out to help others, at the time for some reason on my mind I was thinking it would bleed the system via the return. But you're certainly right, as that's why you crack an injector open to bleed a system. Makes perfect sense now I just wasn't thinking at the time haha
The straps hold down the 5 gallon jerry cans that hold extra fuel.
That would certainly make sense. thanks!
I suppose that it is a testament to how much I hold onto things but I do have the pdf manuals for that generator as well as the engine.
I think I have them from steelsolders, but will need to verify
Is that a site where you pay for manuals?
How much did you purchase it for?
I have 2 of them. This one I believe I was around $1700 after auction fees. If I were to buy another I'd sit and wait a little longer and try to get around the $1500 mark likely.
I did buy my second, 10kw for about $1600, but didn't pay attention and it was 400 hertz. So essentially a paperweight for anyone in the civilian market 😂
I have the maintenance manual
I found some of them online, but I think I'm still missing a few pieces
How much did you pay for this unit?
Sorry for the delay I totally missed this. I believe I am about $2000 all in on this unit. I just picked up another one slightly cheaper though.
Fix problems you see don't ignore them. Like leaking fuel line.Grr
I do agree with your sentiment however I think it is slightly misplaced in this situation. I don't think I ignored anything. I called out the issue that I saw and then got the materials needed to fix it shortly after. So while I agree that it was not fixed immediately on camera I did remedy it once I had materials.
That generator has a safety cut off switch
Ended up finding out a lot more about it later on. I was certainly fighting through my ignorance in the video haha
Any 12v car battery that tested out at 9 volts or less, is junk.
That makes sense since that would indicate at least 1 of the 4 cells is not holding. Unless I'm totally wrong here, which is quite possible.
Pretty scary and ridiculous of you to try and do this without doing some homework on how to operate this machine. Very simple machines. SMH
I prefer the hands-on approach, if I break something then I have to learn how to fix it 🤷
You're way over your head working on diesels.
I dont necessarily agree. I am certainly not the most knowledgeable on plenty of things. I have to start learning sometime, right? If I break something on my own machine then I get to learn how to fix it and not break it in the future. A lot of this is just tinkering around and learning as I go.
I absolutely agree. However, the problem is broadcasting your errors to the whole world and people taking this as good advise or proper instruction. I realize this is the world we live in now which is why younger generations are getting dumber.
@dvsmotions I can see the lense you're viewing this from; however I don't agree with how you are applying it. A lot of my videos I call out that it's my first time working on whatever machine and my knowledge comes from Google/TH-cam. So yes, I do my best, but some things I do may not be the best guidance. Sometimes in videos I'll backtrack and handle it a different way bc I realized my error. But in my opinion that's why TH-cam and the internet in general should be taken with a grain of salt. Over time I'll gain knowledge and improve, but for now I post my learning process which includes my mistakes. I get guidance in comments fairly often, my goal is to learn and grow, which is what I do here, and it can help others at times as well.
@@dieselpackgarage8796 I give you tremendous Credit. You Can't become an expert until you get your hands dirty and try to troubleshoot it. Your video was interesting and helpful to someone who buys one. I would Just suggest a bright light shining into the unit so that we (and you) could see better in terms of what you are doing.
@@dieselpackgarage8796 I appreciate you sharing your journey.