Thank You ... 2 years ago this stuff was WAY over my head ... after watching your videos since, I actually now understand so much of it. I was born in 1957, one of the greatest lessons learned in all those years, is to always start with the most basic possibility, regardless of what you are repairing.
I’ve done that several times, spent ages getting to the bottom of a problem only to realise I’d been given a little clue early on and not followed it up. Live and learn.
Electrical engineer here. It makes way more sense to probe directly across both component leads, rather than having the black probe grounded. Nice job fixing the problem!
Idiot here. That's true for testing individual components. But wasn't he just trying to determine if there were any problems anywhere in the stream? To me it made sense to test against ground because if you're testing just one component then you won't see a short circuit that's caused just one or two components earlier or later on the line, but if you're testing vs a common ground you'll see an indicator of a problem and then after that you can test individual components. Is that not right?
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I know that some of these videos that you do are probably ones you wanna just pull your hair out since you have to make them over and over but I thoroughly enjoy watching you work. You’re very thorough and exact and your explanations are off the charts. Thank you sir for all your hard work. I very much appreciate it as a ITfield tech
A word of warning regarding the NLBA - you can brute force the connections for data and clock most of the time - but be careful - I have had some batteries destroy the NLBA when wired up wrong - i.e. putting other wires in that are not clock or data but don't look to be power either. You can tell which pins are clock and data by using a meter on diode setting, put the red lead onto the battery negative pin(s) -usually the black wires and then check the remaining leads (not the red power wires) with the meters black lead. Clock or data will read like a diode i.e. around 0.6 to just over 0.7v. anything else is a no go. Just to say - 9 times out of 10 you won't have a problem guessing, but just beware. BTW - I really laughed when you spoke about being careful with the battery when in a critical discharge state - saying we should charge it very slowly to avoid damage while the battery reforms, then you ran out of patience and smashed 3 amps into it 🤣 I think after it has had a revive for a few minutes and all cells seem OK you can go ahead and push a few amps in.
Yea, I probably should've been more clear that A) When guessing wires, I mean data lines, do not guess at power lines B) We can bump the power up once the cells are up to like, 3.2v or higher, 3.0 and under is where you shouldn't be thrashing them.
@@velokoraptus Yeah without the software the item is a paper weight. I bet the subscription is worth the money though since you can rescue a battery that is very healthy that is unconscious and needs a charging.
@@velokoraptus The software needs updating to cope with new battery control systems in future laptops, tablets and other devices. I have a couple of software-controlled devices like PROM blowers that have no software updates since the companies went bust and they're mostly paperweights now. A subscription system means software updates can be written and deployed to customers to cope with new devices.
What's insane to me, is that you had me completely convinced it was the PCH. I still don't fully understand why you felt the need to revisit. But wow, it sure paid off.
I worked in electronic repair in the field. I sometimes I would metaphorically slap on blinkers and head of down the garden path having look the fault in the face in the first 10 minutes 🤦🏻♂️
The 11th gen Tiger Lake CPUs have an FIVR in them, and this is a low power part, so that explains the higher resistance to ground reading (like you'd see on Broadwell-U for example). The 10th gen 10nm Ice Lake CPUs also have FIVR so they read a bit high as well, but the 10th gen 14nm Comet Lake don't (especially the higher power H parts) and these can read pretty low, around 1 ohm. Thanks Intel again for having meaningless generations these days…
Hi Graham, this was very informative diagnostic/troubleshooting. Also I can see you tossed Vichy Vc99 and got UT61E. Now you can connect your Ut61E with USB for onscreen multimeter readings. Hope to see that in next video. 👍👍
I still have my VC99! Took it home for my mini home lab. I wanted to get a faster and more accurate meter just to grow - but I still stand by the VC99 as a fantastic cheap meter. I need to have a look at software for the Uni-T, but also I'm tempted to keep the camera because people like to see what setting the range switch is in. I cropped the camera down to just the screen one time and people were like 'Hey I like seeing what setting the meter is on...' Helps them understand how to use the tools...
@Adamant_IT I would sacrifice RS232 pc connection and trade it for auto power off mod in this nice meter. It's easily done cutting trace to pin 111 of the main chip.
I'm surprised there's virtually nothing on the market for this. While the NLBA has a lot of very clever features like BMS resetting and reprogramming - its basic functionality of 'talk to battery, get stats, do charge cycles on it' isn't rocket science.
@@Adamant_IT My thoughts where to design them in such a way where you can easily probe each cell of a battery pack. As well as have marks showing where to cut the pack so you can open it safely. As for unlocking the pack if the BMS decides to lock it out. Maybe bridging the data pin to ground will force it into a unlocked state. That would be very basic diagnostics. However, since it seems to be a serial link. I'd imagine at some point in the future, someone could create a open source analyzer out of a off the shelf micro controller like the pico. I have some slight prior experience with that. Might speak with someone and see if they'd be interested in working on such a thing.
Actually there is, you can get a CP2112 SMBUS to USB interface for a few bucks to interface with the BMS, but then you need software to send the commands and display the results. The Smart Battery System specifications is available publicly but that only covers the basic information, there are a few pieces of code for that floating around I think. Part of the secret sauce is with the custom commands that the manufacturer of the BMS IC choose to implement. For example if you take a look at the BQ40Z80 Technical Reference Manual you can see there's a lot going on in these ICs… And for most BMS ICs there is no documentation available. So the more advanced software need to implement all these commands for all the possible variants (and there are a few dozens). BE2Works is one of these software, commercial of course but there's a "demo" version with limited features. BE2Works can work with a CP2112 interface. There's also UBRT which I don't know anything about. The engineering put into these software is also for the "unlocking" features. When a serious event happens to the battery, it goes into Permanent Failure, turns off the MOSFET and blows the fuse (if possible). To get out of Permanent Failure you need to unlock the BMS IC using a key (or multiple), which are generally not publicly known. As a side note, you really need to know what you're doing if you want to attempt that, if the battery got into Permanent Failure it's because there was a safety-critical event, you don't want to unlock the BMS IC, bridge the fuse and put back the battery in a customer's laptop like some other TH-cam channels show… Finally on the hardware side, the CP2112 interface won't have any reasonable protection so you can blow them up easily, and you could even damage the computer connected to it. And of course you don't have any charging/discharging capabilities. As demonstrated in this video, properly controlled charging is extremely useful, although you can of course do that with a good lab PSU if you know what you're doing, and an electronic load for the discharging. But the fully integrated hardware and software as well as the support is what makes the product shown in this video what it is.
31:40 pro tip: use "start reading" so it cycles all the time. touch the wires instead of screwing them in. much quicker to go through the possibilities like that 32:50 lol exactly
I like this one. It introduced me to the pro battery checker/charger NLBC and the 'Paul Daniels' meter. Also, How on earth was that fingerprint reader corroded? Perhaps wet finger presses over time.
That would work, yes. The NLBA just makes it a lot easier, but also gives you all the stats, so you can make judgement calls on the condition of the cells and if the battery is salvageable, or if you should just replace it.
Hi Graham. Do you have/know by any chance the pinout for the Be Quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 750W PC power supply connectors? It is a fully modular one, and I can't even test it without the cables. I'm mainly interested in the 20 and 8 pin motherboard connectors. Thanks.
80Wh is high energy density? pfft! That P2 Pro camera is very neat, nice fast refresh, never seen the heat pulse with the current like that before. I assume it was expensive :) Great fix, I wouldn't expect the fingerprint sensor either. Mine has always been disabled due to the drivers being awful (Goodix) but I would have never considered that a hardware issue with it could cause this fault. That battery analyser is a neat piece of kit too.
Could you describe in the description under the video what kind of tools you work with for example that neat warmth camera that you plug into your phone?
Argh, your killing me inside man. The last two videos have been simple things that should've taken you minutes to diagnose and need no probing, thermal cameras or anything fancy at all. Simply disconnecting everything non essential should be the FIRST thing you do! Then slowly reconnect one by one to see if the fault returns! If the fault remains, THEN start diving deeper! In other news, love the content, keep up the hard work!
Hi Graham . Thanks for the video. I know this is a long shot, but would you be able to recommend a good bench power supply for a hobbyist ? :) I'd like a supply of max 30V and maybe a few amps 6 to 10A . Thank you!
The cheapo brands kinda come and go... anything advertising 30v 5a is good enough for repair, and you can spend a bit more for 10a if you want. My advice is to look for one with an 'Output off/on' switch on it, not just 'power' because without an Output switch, it's really awkward to set up the current limit.
Theory on the higher CPU resistance in newer laptops: it's because Intel moved the PCH to be part of the CPU. Also you're probably getting more AMD laptops now.
Piernov pointed out in another comment that a lot of the newer Intel low-power chips have FIVR - which means the main core regulators are in the CPU itself, and the power stages next to the CPU are just knocking the main power rail down to about 1.8v before it hits the chip. This is where that higher resistance comes in, when I measure those power stages, I'm not actually seeing the compute cores. The PCH doesn't have anything to do with it, however we did see the PCH move on-chip with Broadwell-U, which also introduced FIVR, so they are correlated.
I’m just getting used to PCB repairs, inspired by your channel and that of others that are doing a fantastic job in the field of electronics repair. I have an HP 11 gen. Motherboard that is a misery figuring what might be the problem of not recognizing mv.2 ssd. It turns on fine and appears to be ok, but just not recognizing ssd when it’s boot on. I would be grateful if anyone could help me with a clue on what to check for.
Assuming you're certain it's an NVMe drive (not SATA over M.2) and you know the drive isn't faulty... Check if the M.2 port is getting power (look up M.2 pinout to see where the 3v3 pins are)... Otherwise it's likely a PCI-E issue, which is probably going to be a nightmare rabbithole.
@@Adamant_IT Thanks for responding, it’s getting 3v on the M.2 slot and I’m using a new m.2 ssd. I have tried about two other known working ones as well. I’m not sure if the motherboard uses PCH. This is a challenging one for a beginner like me lol.
Try a SATA M.2 drive instead of an NVME one. Also do a BIOS reset and check the relevant SATA/PCIe and boot device settings (e.g. Legacy vs UEFI). Hardware faults with M.2 are rare - more likely to be a BIOS issue.
careful man you have a few Yanks that watch your videos don't be so thin skinned offended is a word used quite often by the woke community hopefully you are not one of them
@@Adamant_IT thanks for the reply Brother I Have been watching for a few years and gained a lot of knowledge from your videos, Greetings from Phelps KY USA
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank You ... 2 years ago this stuff was WAY over my head ... after watching your videos since, I actually now understand so much of it. I was born in 1957, one of the greatest lessons learned in all those years, is to always start with the most basic possibility, regardless of what you are repairing.
If Americans had come up with the name it would have been the LG Ounce.
that pulsing shot with your thermal camera was great.
I have recently been punked by a faulty fingerprint reader. So has Sorin. Join the club, Graham!
I’ve done that several times, spent ages getting to the bottom of a problem only to realise I’d been given a little clue early on and not followed it up. Live and learn.
A Graham fixing a Gram
its adam
@@pckiddy Nope :D
Electrical engineer here. It makes way more sense to probe directly across both component leads, rather than having the black probe grounded. Nice job fixing the problem!
Idiot here. That's true for testing individual components. But wasn't he just trying to determine if there were any problems anywhere in the stream? To me it made sense to test against ground because if you're testing just one component then you won't see a short circuit that's caused just one or two components earlier or later on the line, but if you're testing vs a common ground you'll see an indicator of a problem and then after that you can test individual components. Is that not right?
that tiny little fingerprint scanner held so many secrets and treasures, throwing in so many red herrings omg
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Love that you spent the time to repair the battery as well!
Fascinating!!! Great job. Always enjoy your videos.
That the meter was showing the pulses, and then the camera showing the pulsing heat. Fire.
I know that some of these videos that you do are probably ones you wanna just pull your hair out since you have to make them over and over but I thoroughly enjoy watching you work. You’re very thorough and exact and your explanations are off the charts. Thank you sir for all your hard work. I very much appreciate it as a ITfield tech
Yeah I've started doing this as well, not unplugging things to find simple i/o faults. Simple schoolboy stuff we shouldn't forget. Cheers for the vid!
I was going to skip the NLBA part but I'm glad I didn't. I learned a lot so thank you!
What does NLBA stand for, sorry I am only beginner in this field😅
@@rayyan-munassar It's the name of that battery analyzer at 31:26 it's really cool but very expensive.
I enjoyed that repair Graham...well done mate..
A word of warning regarding the NLBA - you can brute force the connections for data and clock most of the time - but be careful - I have had some batteries destroy the NLBA when wired up wrong - i.e. putting other wires in that are not clock or data but don't look to be power either. You can tell which pins are clock and data by using a meter on diode setting, put the red lead onto the battery negative pin(s) -usually the black wires and then check the remaining leads (not the red power wires) with the meters black lead. Clock or data will read like a diode i.e. around 0.6 to just over 0.7v. anything else is a no go. Just to say - 9 times out of 10 you won't have a problem guessing, but just beware. BTW - I really laughed when you spoke about being careful with the battery when in a critical discharge state - saying we should charge it very slowly to avoid damage while the battery reforms, then you ran out of patience and smashed 3 amps into it 🤣 I think after it has had a revive for a few minutes and all cells seem OK you can go ahead and push a few amps in.
Yea, I probably should've been more clear that A) When guessing wires, I mean data lines, do not guess at power lines B) We can bump the power up once the cells are up to like, 3.2v or higher, 3.0 and under is where you shouldn't be thrashing them.
Man that battery analyzer is a nice piece of kit. It can rescue dead good batteries that can't do it on their own.
Let's not forget that for software for this battery analyzer you must pay SUBSCRIPTION. No, it's not one time purchase. :)
@@velokoraptus Yeah without the software the item is a paper weight. I bet the subscription is worth the money though since you can rescue a battery that is very healthy that is unconscious and needs a charging.
NLB battery analyser
@@velokoraptus The software needs updating to cope with new battery control systems in future laptops, tablets and other devices. I have a couple of software-controlled devices like PROM blowers that have no software updates since the companies went bust and they're mostly paperweights now. A subscription system means software updates can be written and deployed to customers to cope with new devices.
Great video again, loved the pulsing regulator.
What's insane to me, is that you had me completely convinced it was the PCH. I still don't fully understand why you felt the need to revisit. But wow, it sure paid off.
Interesting video. Love that battery analyser.
Very educational. Thank you for sharing!
The laptop whisperer does it again 😀
I worked in electronic repair in the field. I sometimes I would metaphorically slap on blinkers and head of down the garden path having look the fault in the face in the first 10 minutes 🤦🏻♂️
Interesting job, that battery analyser is the business.
The 11th gen Tiger Lake CPUs have an FIVR in them, and this is a low power part, so that explains the higher resistance to ground reading (like you'd see on Broadwell-U for example). The 10th gen 10nm Ice Lake CPUs also have FIVR so they read a bit high as well, but the 10th gen 14nm Comet Lake don't (especially the higher power H parts) and these can read pretty low, around 1 ohm.
Thanks Intel again for having meaningless generations these days…
Excellent laptop troubleshooting. Thank you.
Hi Graham, this was very informative diagnostic/troubleshooting. Also I can see you tossed Vichy Vc99 and got UT61E. Now you can connect your Ut61E with USB for onscreen multimeter readings. Hope to see that in next video. 👍👍
I still have my VC99! Took it home for my mini home lab. I wanted to get a faster and more accurate meter just to grow - but I still stand by the VC99 as a fantastic cheap meter.
I need to have a look at software for the Uni-T, but also I'm tempted to keep the camera because people like to see what setting the range switch is in. I cropped the camera down to just the screen one time and people were like 'Hey I like seeing what setting the meter is on...' Helps them understand how to use the tools...
@Adamant_IT I would sacrifice RS232 pc connection and trade it for auto power off mod in this nice meter. It's easily done cutting trace to pin 111 of the main chip.
Nice recovery!
Well done nice work fault finding.🙂👍
Great job
This one was good you didn't give up and made a POS ewaste run great again. It tested your skills and you seem to like that as a tech. Nice job.
Great work as always! Very interesting one. I wish there was a way to get good diagnostics on batteries without a expensive tester.
I'm surprised there's virtually nothing on the market for this. While the NLBA has a lot of very clever features like BMS resetting and reprogramming - its basic functionality of 'talk to battery, get stats, do charge cycles on it' isn't rocket science.
@@Adamant_IT My thoughts where to design them in such a way where you can easily probe each cell of a battery pack. As well as have marks showing where to cut the pack so you can open it safely. As for unlocking the pack if the BMS decides to lock it out. Maybe bridging the data pin to ground will force it into a unlocked state.
That would be very basic diagnostics. However, since it seems to be a serial link. I'd imagine at some point in the future, someone could create a open source analyzer out of a off the shelf micro controller like the pico. I have some slight prior experience with that. Might speak with someone and see if they'd be interested in working on such a thing.
Actually there is, you can get a CP2112 SMBUS to USB interface for a few bucks to interface with the BMS, but then you need software to send the commands and display the results. The Smart Battery System specifications is available publicly but that only covers the basic information, there are a few pieces of code for that floating around I think. Part of the secret sauce is with the custom commands that the manufacturer of the BMS IC choose to implement. For example if you take a look at the BQ40Z80 Technical Reference Manual you can see there's a lot going on in these ICs… And for most BMS ICs there is no documentation available.
So the more advanced software need to implement all these commands for all the possible variants (and there are a few dozens). BE2Works is one of these software, commercial of course but there's a "demo" version with limited features. BE2Works can work with a CP2112 interface. There's also UBRT which I don't know anything about.
The engineering put into these software is also for the "unlocking" features. When a serious event happens to the battery, it goes into Permanent Failure, turns off the MOSFET and blows the fuse (if possible). To get out of Permanent Failure you need to unlock the BMS IC using a key (or multiple), which are generally not publicly known.
As a side note, you really need to know what you're doing if you want to attempt that, if the battery got into Permanent Failure it's because there was a safety-critical event, you don't want to unlock the BMS IC, bridge the fuse and put back the battery in a customer's laptop like some other TH-cam channels show…
Finally on the hardware side, the CP2112 interface won't have any reasonable protection so you can blow them up easily, and you could even damage the computer connected to it. And of course you don't have any charging/discharging capabilities. As demonstrated in this video, properly controlled charging is extremely useful, although you can of course do that with a good lab PSU if you know what you're doing, and an electronic load for the discharging. But the fully integrated hardware and software as well as the support is what makes the product shown in this video what it is.
A very interesting solve.
31:40 pro tip: use "start reading" so it cycles all the time. touch the wires instead of screwing them in. much quicker to go through the possibilities like that 32:50 lol exactly
Cool 2 for 1 on youtube content! I found myself looking for a second press on the like button at the end! good job man, thanks for sharing.
That battery thingy is amazing, hopefully more repair shops get one of those
I like this one. It introduced me to the pro battery checker/charger NLBC and the 'Paul Daniels' meter. Also, How on earth was that fingerprint reader corroded? Perhaps wet finger presses over time.
Whats your opinion on directly charge the cells of the dead battery? Of course with low current, etc
That would work, yes. The NLBA just makes it a lot easier, but also gives you all the stats, so you can make judgement calls on the condition of the cells and if the battery is salvageable, or if you should just replace it.
Well done from a Graeme who knows the pain of people not knowing how to pronounce my name.
Excellent work! What do you think how much an LG Graham should weigh? 😄
Good work...
Love the honesty. Sometimes we all just overthink. 1+1=11. :)
I wonder why you didn't try to repair that little fingerprint reader, As for the rest great educational and explainable fault findings
Well done :-)
Dang. The power button sensor.
Though i subscribed to the channel i have not been seeing the news videos i had to search for this
Hi Graham.
Do you have/know by any chance the pinout for the Be Quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 750W PC power supply connectors?
It is a fully modular one, and I can't even test it without the cables.
I'm mainly interested in the 20 and 8 pin motherboard connectors.
Thanks.
80Wh is high energy density? pfft!
That P2 Pro camera is very neat, nice fast refresh, never seen the heat pulse with the current like that before. I assume it was expensive :)
Great fix, I wouldn't expect the fingerprint sensor either. Mine has always been disabled due to the drivers being awful (Goodix) but I would have never considered that a hardware issue with it could cause this fault. That battery analyser is a neat piece of kit too.
Excellent methodical DIAG-NOSIS
Therefore I gave you a 👍
Could you describe in the description under the video what kind of tools you work with for example that neat warmth camera that you plug into your phone?
That NLBA is a very nice device, but when I saw the pricetag of 470 stones. 🤥
Damn I never learn so much in a video before
I feel your spelling pain. the same thing has happened to me - "DVD" Where are the vowels? they should be called DaVid :) Chears David
LG is made in South Korea, your problem is with them, not us.
Argh, your killing me inside man. The last two videos have been simple things that should've taken you minutes to diagnose and need no probing, thermal cameras or anything fancy at all. Simply disconnecting everything non essential should be the FIRST thing you do! Then slowly reconnect one by one to see if the fault returns! If the fault remains, THEN start diving deeper!
In other news, love the content, keep up the hard work!
“OL” = over limit / overload
It has your name on it, kind of!
Edit: Ok, I wrote the comment before the intro. How accurate!
Hi Graham . Thanks for the video. I know this is a long shot, but would you be able to recommend a good bench power supply for a hobbyist ? :) I'd like a supply of max 30V and maybe a few amps 6 to 10A .
Thank you!
The cheapo brands kinda come and go... anything advertising 30v 5a is good enough for repair, and you can spend a bit more for 10a if you want.
My advice is to look for one with an 'Output off/on' switch on it, not just 'power' because without an Output switch, it's really awkward to set up the current limit.
All respect’s 👍👍👍👍👍
Sorin would have fixed the fingerprint scanner.. dissapoint.
Does anyone knows what is the name of the thermal camera tool connected to phone?
good one to Graham intersting how would that crode ? break down then
My guess is a current sense issue
Theory on the higher CPU resistance in newer laptops: it's because Intel moved the PCH to be part of the CPU. Also you're probably getting more AMD laptops now.
Piernov pointed out in another comment that a lot of the newer Intel low-power chips have FIVR - which means the main core regulators are in the CPU itself, and the power stages next to the CPU are just knocking the main power rail down to about 1.8v before it hits the chip. This is where that higher resistance comes in, when I measure those power stages, I'm not actually seeing the compute cores.
The PCH doesn't have anything to do with it, however we did see the PCH move on-chip with Broadwell-U, which also introduced FIVR, so they are correlated.
I’m just getting used to PCB repairs, inspired by your channel and that of others that are doing a fantastic job in the field of electronics repair. I have an HP 11 gen. Motherboard that is a misery figuring what might be the problem of not recognizing mv.2 ssd. It turns on fine and appears to be ok, but just not recognizing ssd when it’s boot on. I would be grateful if anyone could help me with a clue on what to check for.
Assuming you're certain it's an NVMe drive (not SATA over M.2) and you know the drive isn't faulty...
Check if the M.2 port is getting power (look up M.2 pinout to see where the 3v3 pins are)...
Otherwise it's likely a PCI-E issue, which is probably going to be a nightmare rabbithole.
@@Adamant_IT Thanks for responding, it’s getting 3v on the M.2 slot and I’m using a new m.2 ssd. I have tried about two other known working ones as well. I’m not sure if the motherboard uses PCH. This is a challenging one for a beginner like me lol.
Try a SATA M.2 drive instead of an NVME one. Also do a BIOS reset and check the relevant SATA/PCIe and boot device settings (e.g. Legacy vs UEFI). Hardware faults with M.2 are rare - more likely to be a BIOS issue.
first of hearing this brand, they're quite expensive at least for me
don't be affraid to inject voltage!
Can't inject if you don't have a short. I was tempted to try it out of desperation, but it wouldn't have worked.
well hello, who could have thought that the small circuitry of fingerprint reader would do such a thing
MORE POWAAH!
LOL there are a lot that do that here or they pronounce Herb With a hard h or no h it's a soft H ! lol
FWIW, LG is a Korean Corporation not an American.
Mindless weight reduction limits the durability of these laptops. The cheapest Chinese tablets have better build quality than LG's Grams
Mindless? Says who? The engineers wouldn't agree. PS LG is made in China
LG is a Korean company
Gram as in weight I think
Obvious really 😂😂😂😂
Feel like even if the cells are at 2.8V the laptop should be able to recover it.
If it doesn't, terrible design.
Hidden screws are so stupid.
careful man you have a few Yanks that watch your videos don't be so thin skinned offended is a word used quite often by the woke community hopefully you are not one of them
It's joke dude, don't worry ;)
LG isn't even an American brand...
@@Adamant_IT thanks for the reply Brother I Have been watching for a few years and gained a lot of knowledge from your videos, Greetings from Phelps KY USA
台湾是一个独立的国家