Yep, it's interesting that people, including ourselves, get this one confused. Seems to be the common theme of the GM 4.8/5.3. Our first upgrade video is coming, so be on the lookout.
Carbage, any chance you're going rebuilt T5 direction? I can't seem to find any good looking t56s that don't require me to sell body parts on the dark webs.
I'm getting an LY6 , cast iron 6 litre with L92 aluminium heads. Going to put an LS inlet manifold on it and an LSA crankshaft and some nicer piston and put some boost down that sucker. Actually I might by two of them before they start to get rarer.
I'm talking to Holley Performance about intakes and, because of the autocross and track nature of the truck, they are recommending that the Truck intake is probably going to be the best to work with. They just don't make injectors that fit it. I'd like to upgrade them to 83- to 96-lbs/hr for some insurance in injectors and tuning. We'll see what I go with but it's also something to consider if you're looking to make power down low since the runners are longer in the truck intake over the car.
I can certainly understand that and it was a concern on Project Ron Burgundy, too. Longer runners do give an advantage for low RPM, though, so it makes sense to run a long runner intake on a drag car for that launch advantage until air velocity in the intake peaks out. Once you get up in RPM, air flow in a long runner starts to become restrictive and a short runner comes into play. It's why dual-runner intakes like on the Ford 3.8L Essex V6, the QR25DE, and the storied Ford/Yamaha SHO 3.0L/3.2L V6. Might have to do a video on this.
Well, from the standpoint of the 5.3-liter, this block is a bit better due to it's LS2 design. However, it's still good to have a lighter aluminum block over the iron block of the standard 5.3-liter engines.
That is what I implied. Nice to see you got rid of DOD. A company sells a kit with all new lifters, buckets and a valley cover with O-Ring block offs for the oiling system. I have a 4.8 in a 2005 van with 170 K on it and it has a leak between 3-5, head gasket. But I can drive it with coolant level below, for now. Also have a GMPP 502 in a 78 corvette.
Yeah, doing any engine work in a van isn't easy so I can't blame you for not wanting to do it. Also, the C3 with a 502 must be a blast to drive. I feel like that car is under rated for people in the Pro-Touring scene. I've seen three really amazing C3s at an autocross I announced for and two events I've covered for LS1Tech and MotoIQ.
I was scared to LS swap and am just sticking with the old Small Block Chevy on my build. All these different L's and Q's and Y's floating around, seems like it'd be a pain in the butt to locate the right engine/figure out how to retrofit it/find an accessories setup that'll fit and work/hash out an ECU/etc. For me, another SBC goes in the same hole, done.
There is definitely some frustration when it comes to the LS-based engines. Fortunately, there are ways to at least figure out which block version you have so you know you'll be getting the correct ECU. Generation III blocks (L33, LS6, LR4, LM7, L59, LM4, LQ4, LQ9) will have their knock and cam timing sensors in the valley cover (cam timing sensor is at the back of the block next to the oil pressure sensor) up to 2004. In 2005, they are moved with the change to the Generation IV blocks (L76, L98, L77, LY6, LFA LZ1, LY2, L20, LMF, LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, LH8, L92, L99, LSA) and all of them have their cam timing sensor on the timing cover and the knock sensors are on each side of the block just above the oil pan. All GM LS engines up to 2005 are 24x crank timing reluctors with 1x cam timing reluctors. The reluctor was ground into the camshaft until 2005 when it was moved to the cam timing wheel as they are on the 05 LS2-based blocks like the LH6. They remain 24x/1x so all ECUs that work with an LS1 will work with these engines provided the wiring is done right for the Cam sensor and knock sensors. GM Gen IV LS-based engines from 2006 and up are 58x reluctors with 4x cam timing reluctors except for the LH6 which remained 24x/1x. The reluctor is on the cam timing wheel, including on the LH6. There are ways to make a 58x LS work with a 24x LS by using a 58x to 24x converter like the one sold by Lingenfelter. The hard way is to convert the reluctor on the crankshaft but you'll need help from a machine shop to do it as you'll have to heat up the reluctor wheels on the crank to expand them to remove them and then precisely install the correct version back on to the crank. You'll also have to change out the camshaft with one that has a three-bolt cam wheel as all 58x/4x cam wheels are single bolt except for the 2005 version of the LS2 and engines based on that configuration. So, the easiest way to tell is to get the model year or pull the cam timing cover off on Gen IV blocks to see which reluctor system you're dealing with. All Gen III blocks are the same and all work with LS1 ECUs regardless of which version it is. You can see the difference in the timing gears here: www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/834483-LS-Timing-Reluctor-Wheels-Explained
Stuart W I agree I built a 5.3 engine for my truck but the more I learned the more I wanted to just build up my 5.7 vortec and enjoy way more torque and cheaper parts prices
Stuart your common Small Block is less complicated & you are right Cheaper to build than your LS Engines & if your LS Engines are so great why can you not put a Blower on them (YOU CANNOT DO IT BECAUSE THEY DO NOT MAKE ONE FOR THEM) the best you can do is a Turbo or Supercharger so there you have it I'm Old School & would much rather have your Common Small Block CHEVY OLDS PONTIAC & BUICK & you can throw in your common Big Block line too 396 400 427 & 454 they talk all this junk about the LS Engine having bigger Exaust & Intake Ports the Exaust & Intake Ports much bigger on the Big Blocks any of them and they will rake as fast as the LS Engines too further more just go to Drag Strip or Farmtruck portion of You Tube 7 you or anyone will see what I'm talking about that is my point & I rest my case
You think you'd google something before you yell it out in all caps. They sell blower kits for the GM LS engine and just about any other part you could think of, just Google it. It's the best most versatile engine out in just about every aspect too bad you are blinded by your lack of access and or knowledge about them. From a 600hp stock 5.3L hauled out of a salvage yard with a ebay turbo kit to a 850hp 10-71 408 to a NA 502 with LS7 heads making 700+ or a 1,800hp twin turbo 427 if you really want to go nuts in a street car.
another quick way to tell is the oil pan, l33's do not have the funny hole. if you want a cheap car oil pan the ls4 will fit if u grab the pick up tube with it and windage tray
True. We've also got an oil pan from Texas Speed and Performance. That install will be featured in a future video, but for now check out the first part of the upgrades and work done to the LH6 here: th-cam.com/video/Mxrsy9c-19c/w-d-xo.html&spfreload=5
LH6 is better than L33, they come with 243 heads for one and have Siamese cylinders, no gap between cylinders, it’s considered GMs strongest aluminum block, LH6 front and rear bulkheads are the most stout (thickest). You’re welcome.
LS1Tech.com and I parted ways over a year ago. There won't be any follow-up, unfortunately, since we are no longer collaborating. I'm debating taking this and the previous L33 video down because of that.
Hey, @Hard North Outdoors, LS1Tech.com and I parted ways over a year ago. There won't be any follow-up, unfortunately, since we are no longer collaborating. I'm debating taking this and the previous L33 video down because of that. That said, if I can get the budget to approach this on my own again, I do want to do another LH6.
what is the difference between the LS motors.I know that there is the 1970 big block ls6 .on these videos about these newer Chev motors r they saying ls6 or lh6. I fuckin confused.I'm too old school
The design of the blocks change from Gen III to Gen IV but parts are interchangeable for the most part. There are other differences as well and I've copied the response I did below so you can see the electronic differences. Generation III blocks (L33, LS6, LR4, LM7, L59, LM4, LQ4, LQ9) will have their knock and cam timing sensors in the valley cover (cam timing sensor is at the back of the block next to the oil pressure sensor) up to 2004. In 2005, they are moved with the change to the Generation IV blocks (L76, L98, L77, LY6, LFA LZ1, LY2, L20, LMF, LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, LH8, L92, L99, LSA) and all of them have their cam timing sensor on the timing cover and the knock sensors are on each side of the block just above the oil pan. All GM LS engines up to 2005 are 24x crank timing reluctors with 1x cam timing reluctors. The reluctor was ground into the camshaft until 2005 when it was moved to the cam timing wheel as they are on the 05 LS2-based blocks like the LH6. They remain 24x/1x so all ECUs that work with an LS1 will work with these engines provided the wiring is done right for the Cam sensor and knock sensors. GM Gen IV LS-based engines from 2006 and up are 58x reluctors with 4x cam timing reluctors except for the LH6 which remained 24x/1x. The reluctor is on the cam timing wheel, including on the LH6. There are ways to make a 58x LS work with a 24x LS by using a 58x to 24x converter like the one sold by Lingenfelter. The hard way is to convert the reluctor on the crankshaft but you'll need help from a machine shop to do it as you'll have to heat up the reluctor wheels on the crank to expand them to remove them and then precisely install the correct version back on to the crank. You'll also have to change out the camshaft with one that has a three-bolt cam wheel as all 58x/4x cam wheels are single bolt except for the 2005 version of the LS2 and engines based on that configuration. So, the easiest way to tell is to get the model year or pull the cam timing cover off on Gen IV blocks to see which reluctor system you're dealing with. All Gen III blocks are the same and all work with LS1 ECUs regardless of which version it is. You can see the difference in the timing gears here: www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/834483-LS-Timing-Reluctor-Wheels-Explained
![Goodbye Displacement on Demand - COMP Cams DOD Delete [FULL TIME V8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aHxmOuC6_do/mqdefault.jpg)
Small world, I just purchased an "L33" yesterday and I noticed that it had displacement on demand. This is my first rebuild project so I'm subscribed!
Yep, it's interesting that people, including ourselves, get this one confused. Seems to be the common theme of the GM 4.8/5.3. Our first upgrade video is coming, so be on the lookout.
Carbage, any chance you're going rebuilt T5 direction? I can't seem to find any good looking t56s that don't require me to sell body parts on the dark webs.
We'll be using the GM 4L60E, but of course it's not going to be a normal one. ;)
Collin W l33's do not have DOD
I'm getting an LY6 , cast iron 6 litre with L92 aluminium heads. Going to put an LS inlet manifold on it and an LSA crankshaft and some nicer piston and put some boost down that sucker. Actually I might by two of them before they start to get rarer.
I'm talking to Holley Performance about intakes and, because of the autocross and track nature of the truck, they are recommending that the Truck intake is probably going to be the best to work with. They just don't make injectors that fit it. I'd like to upgrade them to 83- to 96-lbs/hr for some insurance in injectors and tuning.
We'll see what I go with but it's also something to consider if you're looking to make power down low since the runners are longer in the truck intake over the car.
I just prefer everything to fit under the bonnet on my cars. I hate this fit-the-biggest-cowl-scoop-possible mentality every drag racer seems to have
I can certainly understand that and it was a concern on Project Ron Burgundy, too. Longer runners do give an advantage for low RPM, though, so it makes sense to run a long runner intake on a drag car for that launch advantage until air velocity in the intake peaks out. Once you get up in RPM, air flow in a long runner starts to become restrictive and a short runner comes into play. It's why dual-runner intakes like on the Ford 3.8L Essex V6, the QR25DE, and the storied Ford/Yamaha SHO 3.0L/3.2L V6.
Might have to do a video on this.
ok
Enlightening.
thank you for this video
Hey, it's a aluminum block. What more could you want to start with.
Well, from the standpoint of the 5.3-liter, this block is a bit better due to it's LS2 design. However, it's still good to have a lighter aluminum block over the iron block of the standard 5.3-liter engines.
That is what I implied. Nice to see you got rid of DOD. A company sells a kit with all new lifters, buckets and a valley cover with O-Ring block offs for the oiling system. I have a 4.8 in a 2005 van with 170 K on it and it has a leak between 3-5, head gasket. But I can drive it with coolant level below, for now. Also have a GMPP 502 in a 78 corvette.
Yeah, doing any engine work in a van isn't easy so I can't blame you for not wanting to do it.
Also, the C3 with a 502 must be a blast to drive. I feel like that car is under rated for people in the Pro-Touring scene. I've seen three really amazing C3s at an autocross I announced for and two events I've covered for LS1Tech and MotoIQ.
It’s probably also going to be the cheapest aluminum LS you are going to find.
Very informative, I like it.
I was scared to LS swap and am just sticking with the old Small Block Chevy on my build. All these different L's and Q's and Y's floating around, seems like it'd be a pain in the butt to locate the right engine/figure out how to retrofit it/find an accessories setup that'll fit and work/hash out an ECU/etc. For me, another SBC goes in the same hole, done.
There is definitely some frustration when it comes to the LS-based engines. Fortunately, there are ways to at least figure out which block version you have so you know you'll be getting the correct ECU.
Generation III blocks (L33, LS6, LR4, LM7, L59, LM4, LQ4, LQ9) will have their knock and cam timing sensors in the valley cover (cam timing sensor is at the back of the block next to the oil pressure sensor) up to 2004. In 2005, they are moved with the change to the Generation IV blocks (L76, L98, L77, LY6, LFA LZ1, LY2, L20, LMF, LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, LH8, L92, L99, LSA) and all of them have their cam timing sensor on the timing cover and the knock sensors are on each side of the block just above the oil pan.
All GM LS engines up to 2005 are 24x crank timing reluctors with 1x cam timing reluctors. The reluctor was ground into the camshaft until 2005 when it was moved to the cam timing wheel as they are on the 05 LS2-based blocks like the LH6. They remain 24x/1x so all ECUs that work with an LS1 will work with these engines provided the wiring is done right for the Cam sensor and knock sensors.
GM Gen IV LS-based engines from 2006 and up are 58x reluctors with 4x cam timing reluctors except for the LH6 which remained 24x/1x. The reluctor is on the cam timing wheel, including on the LH6.
There are ways to make a 58x LS work with a 24x LS by using a 58x to 24x converter like the one sold by Lingenfelter. The hard way is to convert the reluctor on the crankshaft but you'll need help from a machine shop to do it as you'll have to heat up the reluctor wheels on the crank to expand them to remove them and then precisely install the correct version back on to the crank. You'll also have to change out the camshaft with one that has a three-bolt cam wheel as all 58x/4x cam wheels are single bolt except for the 2005 version of the LS2 and engines based on that configuration.
So, the easiest way to tell is to get the model year or pull the cam timing cover off on Gen IV blocks to see which reluctor system you're dealing with. All Gen III blocks are the same and all work with LS1 ECUs regardless of which version it is.
You can see the difference in the timing gears here: www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/834483-LS-Timing-Reluctor-Wheels-Explained
Stuart W I agree I built a 5.3 engine for my truck but the more I learned the more I wanted to just build up my 5.7 vortec and enjoy way more torque and cheaper parts prices
Stuart your common Small Block is less complicated & you are right Cheaper to build than your LS Engines & if your LS Engines are so great why can you not put a Blower on them (YOU CANNOT DO IT BECAUSE THEY DO NOT MAKE ONE FOR THEM) the best you can do is a Turbo or Supercharger so there you have it I'm Old School & would much rather have your Common Small Block CHEVY OLDS PONTIAC & BUICK & you can throw in your common Big Block line too 396 400 427 & 454 they talk all this junk about the LS Engine having bigger Exaust & Intake Ports the Exaust & Intake Ports much bigger on the Big Blocks any of them and they will rake as fast as the LS Engines too further more just go to Drag Strip or Farmtruck portion of You Tube 7 you or anyone will see what I'm talking about that is my point & I rest my case
You think you'd google something before you yell it out in all caps. They sell blower kits for the GM LS engine and just about any other part you could think of, just Google it. It's the best most versatile engine out in just about every aspect too bad you are blinded by your lack of access and or knowledge about them. From a 600hp stock 5.3L hauled out of a salvage yard with a ebay turbo kit to a 850hp 10-71 408 to a NA 502 with LS7 heads making 700+ or a 1,800hp twin turbo 427 if you really want to go nuts in a street car.
another quick way to tell is the oil pan, l33's do not have the funny hole. if you want a cheap car oil pan the ls4 will fit if u grab the pick up tube with it and windage tray
True. We've also got an oil pan from Texas Speed and Performance. That install will be featured in a future video, but for now check out the first part of the upgrades and work done to the LH6 here: th-cam.com/video/Mxrsy9c-19c/w-d-xo.html&spfreload=5
LH6 is better than L33, they come with 243 heads for one and have Siamese cylinders, no gap between cylinders, it’s considered GMs strongest aluminum block, LH6 front and rear bulkheads are the most stout (thickest). You’re welcome.
L33 comes with 243/799 heads as well. You’re thinking of the LM4. That comes with 796/862 heads.
Wheres the follow-up on this build ??
LS1Tech.com and I parted ways over a year ago. There won't be any follow-up, unfortunately, since we are no longer collaborating. I'm debating taking this and the previous L33 video down because of that.
Bro, wheres the LH6 updates?
Hey, @Hard North Outdoors, LS1Tech.com and I parted ways over a year ago. There won't be any follow-up, unfortunately, since we are no longer collaborating. I'm debating taking this and the previous L33 video down because of that. That said, if I can get the budget to approach this on my own again, I do want to do another LH6.
what is the difference between the LS motors.I know that there is the 1970 big block ls6 .on these videos about these newer Chev motors r they saying ls6 or lh6. I fuckin confused.I'm too old school
The design of the blocks change from Gen III to Gen IV but parts are interchangeable for the most part. There are other differences as well and I've copied the response I did below so you can see the electronic differences.
Generation III blocks (L33, LS6, LR4, LM7, L59, LM4, LQ4, LQ9) will have their knock and cam timing sensors in the valley cover (cam timing sensor is at the back of the block next to the oil pressure sensor) up to 2004. In 2005, they are moved with the change to the Generation IV blocks (L76, L98, L77, LY6, LFA LZ1, LY2, L20, LMF, LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, LH8, L92, L99, LSA) and all of them have their cam timing sensor on the timing cover and the knock sensors are on each side of the block just above the oil pan.
All GM LS engines up to 2005 are 24x crank timing reluctors with 1x cam timing reluctors. The reluctor was ground into the camshaft until 2005 when it was moved to the cam timing wheel as they are on the 05 LS2-based blocks like the LH6. They remain 24x/1x so all ECUs that work with an LS1 will work with these engines provided the wiring is done right for the Cam sensor and knock sensors.
GM Gen IV LS-based engines from 2006 and up are 58x reluctors with 4x cam timing reluctors except for the LH6 which remained 24x/1x. The reluctor is on the cam timing wheel, including on the LH6.
There are ways to make a 58x LS work with a 24x LS by using a 58x to 24x converter like the one sold by Lingenfelter. The hard way is to convert the reluctor on the crankshaft but you'll need help from a machine shop to do it as you'll have to heat up the reluctor wheels on the crank to expand them to remove them and then precisely install the correct version back on to the crank. You'll also have to change out the camshaft with one that has a three-bolt cam wheel as all 58x/4x cam wheels are single bolt except for the 2005 version of the LS2 and engines based on that configuration.
So, the easiest way to tell is to get the model year or pull the cam timing cover off on Gen IV blocks to see which reluctor system you're dealing with. All Gen III blocks are the same and all work with LS1 ECUs regardless of which version it is.
You can see the difference in the timing gears here: www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/834483-LS-Timing-Reluctor-Wheels-Explained
LH6 has siameased cylinders, no water passage between cylinders like L33 has, LH6 is stronger .
Apparently I have the LH6.... lol deletes should be here this week to officially crown it as the l33.
Yeah, it's pretty easy to get all of the 5.3-liters confused... #ThanksGM