I noticed you used rebar and nails to connect the bales, you should never use anything metal because it will rot the surrounding straw. They took apart a bunch of older straw ale homes that used rebar and every single one had some rot around the rebar. Condensation happens even if your not on the edge of the bale, use bamboo stakes or something else to connect the bales. Most people use strapping or wooden stakes to connect the bales to the structure. What concerns me is the nails act like thermal bridges from the colder part of the foundation, it really depends on if you had fully insulated slab/footings that go all the way to the start of the strawbale wall. Also I think some closed cell foam on top of the wood beams/gravel would be needed so there is no chance of any temperature/moisture differentials between the foundation and the start of the strawbale wall, and I would skip the nails, it's not needed at all since you are creating a monothic plaster with welded wire.
An idea would be to coat or rubber coat the rebar before using it in construction.. Although wood stakes would work above the first row of bales. So rubber coated rebar in start of foundation then wood stakes in all bales after that.. Nice..
@@davidplate3327 Im NOT an Engineer, but I live in a Cobb house that is so old it pre-dates rebar,,, Similar to the nearby Tudor houses in York, nearby. You are just a Troll,,,,Very Sad,,,and I bet you cant even build a bridge for yourself,,,so have to live in Mommas Basement,,I Know Im right....Lmao!!
@davidplate33 It's true. It's called condensation. Someone was using older bamboo culms for pinning. Older bamboo has more silica, making it a better choice. You want to avoid cement too, as it's hydrophilic and will rot straw. Lime plaster over cob over the bales works best. There was a person who was doing natural building classes out of Oregon about 15 years ago. He was thorough this way, but his info has disappeared. Suspect info has been buried by Google because of the housing/homelessness industrial complex.
Love your work and your vid. Over 20 years I’ve had 3 stages on my house and about to start stage 4. Some of my original render needed a top coat and I purchase an applicator that uses my air compressor. This made a massive difference in the time and labour to get the mud on. I’d really recommend this for any job
Thanks for the info. My dream is a straw bale house and although it's going to cost more than you're showing (I have NO building abilities so will have to hire), it still seems to be the best way to make a home--And I'm dying to have the thick windowsills! I'll be watching for more in the future.
Im going to be purchasing your rain catchment pattern, truly wish we could have you build our home in KY but we will be on a tight budget. Love the videos
@@HeirloomBuilders been watching all your videos, they re so good. if we manage to get it built you can holiday in our house! 1 more Q: which wood do you prefer and do you treat it in any way before using?
@@medwido we prefer Roy-resistant wood for framing that contacts concrete. For walls we use spruce or pine, not treated. For roof framing, we prefer spruce because it is usually the straightest.
This is very helpful as I'm currently at the working out the framing stage of making my own ! It's great to see professionals breaking this market thanks for publishing . I've settled on exactly this 45 vaulted design too but half sized to yours to fit garden codes in Hampshire England. When you mentioned the bond bar problems , then to get out of that first I decided to not have bales on the front entrance wall by setting the front doorframe back by a yard, under a pprched entrance. That way, on the front I can either build straight up with bale and plaster over the porch joists ( 18 inch spacing obviously )to the apex, or even just conventionally board and felt / lapjoint / brick the rain out , while the porching is protecting the whole front door and window system , and overhanging the foundation of the front wall. In England and Northern Europe there are lots of very old half timbered houses and I've taken my design hints from them : that overhanging and porching over the front door was important to them, enough to see it often employed . Skillbuilder ( brilliant ytber) has short vid on " half timbered houses " noticing that too. Also , setting that outside soleplate when there wasn't concrete or dpc took place often took place at least 6ft up from the ground. When there was more availability of plenty of cut lumber and design developed they could then set the sole plates much lower, by " hanging out " , which is done with short stubbed wood that is cantilevered over an L shaped foundation that the uprights sit on . By stopping the inner ends of those stubs from lifting ( just bracing them down behind the uprights onto the higher side of the L shape ) you can then avoid having the whole wall sit on anything but air , AND have air coming under it into the house directly over the fully covered foundation . Overhangs ( even though a wall is heavy you use the fact that uprights don't lift easily ) can solve some of this too , using bales too , but alot of half timbered houses were filled with wattle and daub - at about 4 inch thick . With my walls I've made the foundation so it can take both bales , and some less thick wattle and daub sections : then I've got either / or . I'm thinking that will help solving some of the window and door framing issues. Also , mine is small enough that , since bales and mud are cheap , and go in last , I can probably chuck them out and get fresh ones in should there be a problem along the line. That could be part of the beauty of using them too : like someone else said I'd be reserved about using the metal mesh for plastering either where that metal gets itself wet on its own in certain weather conditions , it'll usually be much colder than the bales ever get when winter is on . Bamboo or Hazel or any wood stays very well preserved in clay / lime / soil plaster though , hundreds of years as long as there's no wicking up of water from the ground. Clay ( I'm lucky were on pure London clay ) is impervious by itself to most if not any conditions when only one outside face of it can get wet . It needs a tiny amount of limewash to the face to be set dry for the foreseeable. I'd recommend getting clay specifically in for the plaster layer if you can. We can supply wattle and daub mix or pure clay ( to English orders ! ) , it's the best pozolanic ingredient for ppc too. Thanks for putting this video up !!
Wattle and Daub have kept many Tudor houses intact,,just like Cobb has done for hundred of years!! Pre-dating the rebar as well!! Best Wishes and Kindest Regards!! Andrea and Animals!! .... XxX...
I very much appreciate your video! It has been the most informative i have found on how to build in this style. Currently I am planning a new build for a wedding venue and also would like to know if this form of building would lend well for an addition to a log home? Any suggestions on this question would be greatly helpful, thank you so much.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad you found this video helpful. I’ve never done it, but I don’t see any reason why not to make your log home addition with a straw bale wall system.
Great and very intriguing video. Can you recommend any other moisture permeable insulation materials for the ceiling (ideally, easily biodegradable materials) to use instead of open cell spray foam?
@@HeirloomBuilders high, are blow-in cellulose, or wood fiber batts not common place as low-carbon insulation materials in NA? It's probably what we see most often here in Europe, and with the huge paper and lumber industry in NA, I'd imagine there's enough waste material for it to be a relatively afforbable, viable option.
I'm curious if you have ever seen or done strawbale roofs? 18" deep rafters and sheathing or shiplap on the inside then strawbales in the rafter space befor another layer of sheathing, airspace, and roofing. I would add eaves without the bales ofcourse.
I’ve only heard of that being attempted once. I would think cellulose or blown insulation would be a better option for a more complete full of the cavity space and be less heavy
I’m getting ready to build up in a high fire zone up in mendo and arguing with my dad about going straw over timber frame. My big question since we’re on a hill is if it’s worth it to do on post and beam without a slab
Hey Heirloom! We are on the coast in Wilmington, NC. What do you think about this type of construction with the threat of hurricanes/storm tide threats? Bad idea or great idea?
Hey Chad! Strawbale construction would be a bad idea in the event that tide or flood water could saturate your wall system. If you’re high enough above flood waters, it would be perfectly fine though.
odd question: when having a property taxed, it is often based on sq footage. Would that be within the walls (so not counting 2 or 3' thick walls) or is that based on the foundation and therefore counts the walls' thickness, too? That also would affect minimum sq footage and most areas in the USA have a 900 sq ft minimum.
For small things plaster screws and plugs, for larger items like cabinets framing wooden nailer boards behind the plaster securely anchored in the bale wall
I always wondered why you wouldn't frame the windows/ doors "inside" the bale house, so that you could take advantage of passive solar heating; any takes on that?
Not sure what you are getting at here. Are you meaning that an external window ledge would overhang the window and provide shade in the summer but the sun would be lower and would stream in through the winter? The issue there is you lose very convenient deep interior window sills for plants and if those sills are outside, they would need to be very sloped as not to collect rain and snow. Framing the window even with the outer wall doesn't hurt passive gain if your angles and eves are right. I would much rather frame this way also because you have room for double blinds or window quilts for night and long winter storms.
I don't know, of course but...unless one lives in a desert or semi-desert location sooner or later moisture will get in the wall space and 100% movement out through the wall, no matter what they are finished in, is very unlikely in the long term. Black mould would be a concern and over time rodents WILL find their way in. Maybe your analogy to the little pig straw build was in humour but except for the upfront cost savings, for my money there are many, many better materials out there with more coming online all the time. Can you even get insurance for such a dwelling?
We use about 20 gallons (or 3 cubic feet) of plaster per 100 sq ft of wall surface per coat, on average. That equates to 2 cu ft of lime and 6 cu ft of mortar sand per 100 sq ft of wall surface for 3 coats. A cubic meter (or cubic yard) of lime combined with 3 cu yds of sand will cover roughly 1400 sq ft of surface (or roughly 155 sq meters of wall surface) with 3 coats of plaster.
I was excited to see a low-carbon insulation material being used in your video, but then I immediately threw my arms up in the air and sighed when I saw you insulating your roof with sprayfoam insulation. Is there any specific reason why you didn't go with blow-in cellulose, or wood fiber batts for example? I know there generally a little more expensive than synthetic insulation materials, but unlike those, they also provide other benefits beyond a high R value. The price difference also isn't astronomical either, so imo it's a shame to use it in an otherwise relatively low-carbon building.
I don’t think stucco is breathable, the word I typically heard is vapor open. If it was “breathable” you could blow throw it. Water vapor can travel through the stucco making it vapor open or permeable.
Your sequencing of events, stucco walls to bales of hay to wall studs to roof being placed is enough to make a person have an epileptic fit. Interesting build but disjointed presentation.
![[ENGSUB] UNPRODUCTIVE DAY ใช้ชีวิต (เปื่อยๆ) ด้วยกัน 1 วัน! | OUROAD CLOSEFRiEND SS2 EP.9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pyYKZ3kra9w/mqdefault.jpg)
We need more in this series! Perhaps videos showing finishing touches like how you plaster the walls?
Finally a "normal" looking straw/cob/adobe house! This is how I will build our home!
I noticed you used rebar and nails to connect the bales, you should never use anything metal because it will rot the surrounding straw. They took apart a bunch of older straw ale homes that used rebar and every single one had some rot around the rebar. Condensation happens even if your not on the edge of the bale, use bamboo stakes or something else to connect the bales. Most people use strapping or wooden stakes to connect the bales to the structure. What concerns me is the nails act like thermal bridges from the colder part of the foundation, it really depends on if you had fully insulated slab/footings that go all the way to the start of the strawbale wall. Also I think some closed cell foam on top of the wood beams/gravel would be needed so there is no chance of any temperature/moisture differentials between the foundation and the start of the strawbale wall, and I would skip the nails, it's not needed at all since you are creating a monothic plaster with welded wire.
An idea would be to coat or rubber coat the rebar before using it in construction..
Although wood stakes would work above the first row of bales.
So rubber coated rebar in start of foundation then wood stakes in all bales after that..
Nice..
Of course you make these statements with no references. You’re fabricating ideas so people think you’re an engineer? Very sad.
@@davidplate3327 Im NOT an Engineer, but I live in a Cobb house that is so old it pre-dates rebar,,,
Similar to the nearby Tudor houses in York, nearby.
You are just a Troll,,,,Very Sad,,,and I bet you cant even build a bridge for yourself,,,so have to live in Mommas Basement,,I Know Im right....Lmao!!
@@davidplate3327hey guys, murder bad. sorry no source.
@davidplate33
It's true. It's called condensation. Someone was using older bamboo culms for pinning. Older bamboo has more silica, making it a better choice.
You want to avoid cement too, as it's hydrophilic and will rot straw. Lime plaster over cob over the bales works best.
There was a person who was doing natural building classes out of Oregon about 15 years ago. He was thorough this way, but his info has disappeared. Suspect info has been buried by Google because of the housing/homelessness industrial complex.
Love your work and your vid. Over 20 years I’ve had 3 stages on my house and about to start stage 4. Some of my original render needed a top coat and I purchase an applicator that uses my air compressor.
This made a massive difference in the time and labour to get the mud on.
I’d really recommend this for any job
Thanks for the info. My dream is a straw bale house and although it's going to cost more than you're showing (I have NO building abilities so will have to hire), it still seems to be the best way to make a home--And I'm dying to have the thick windowsills! I'll be watching for more in the future.
Im going to be purchasing your rain catchment pattern, truly wish we could have you build our home in KY but we will be on a tight budget. Love the videos
A lot of good information
Glad you enjoyed
Excellent information can't wait for more
Thanks! Can you add another that talks about the exterior taping around doors and windows as well?
Yes. That’ll be part of the plaster prep video. 😎
Thx for the heads up with these!
No problem! Thanks for watching, Kristi!
incredible content... we will be building our straw bale house here in Spain next year, would ve loved to have your craftsmanship here!!
Thanks Dwight! I wish I could travel out to Spain to help!
@@HeirloomBuilders been watching all your videos, they re so good. if we manage to get it built you can holiday in our house! 1 more Q: which wood do you prefer and do you treat it in any way before using?
@@medwido we prefer Roy-resistant wood for framing that contacts concrete. For walls we use spruce or pine, not treated. For roof framing, we prefer spruce because it is usually the straightest.
Luv these homes🔥
This is very helpful as I'm currently at the working out the framing stage of making my own ! It's great to see professionals breaking this market thanks for publishing . I've settled on exactly this 45 vaulted design too but half sized to yours to fit garden codes in Hampshire England.
When you mentioned the bond bar problems , then to get out of that first I decided to not have bales on the front entrance wall by setting the front doorframe back by a yard, under a pprched entrance. That way, on the front I can either build straight up with bale and plaster over the porch joists ( 18 inch spacing obviously )to the apex, or even just conventionally board and felt / lapjoint / brick the rain out , while the porching is protecting the whole front door and window system , and overhanging the foundation of the front wall. In England and Northern Europe there are lots of very old half timbered houses and I've taken my design hints from them : that overhanging and porching over the front door was important to them, enough to see it often employed . Skillbuilder ( brilliant ytber) has short vid on " half timbered houses " noticing that too.
Also , setting that outside soleplate when there wasn't concrete or dpc took place often took place at least 6ft up from the ground. When there was more availability of plenty of cut lumber and design developed they could then set the sole plates much lower, by " hanging out " , which is done with short stubbed wood that is cantilevered over an L shaped foundation that the uprights sit on . By stopping the inner ends of those stubs from lifting ( just bracing them down behind the uprights onto the higher side of the L shape ) you can then avoid having the whole wall sit on anything but air , AND have air coming under it into the house directly over the fully covered foundation . Overhangs ( even though a wall is heavy you use the fact that uprights don't lift easily ) can solve some of this too , using bales too , but alot of half timbered houses were filled with wattle and daub - at about 4 inch thick .
With my walls I've made the foundation so it can take both bales , and some less thick wattle and daub sections : then I've got either / or . I'm thinking that will help solving some of the window and door framing issues. Also , mine is small enough that , since bales and mud are cheap , and go in last , I can probably chuck them out and get fresh ones in should there be a problem along the line. That could be part of the beauty of using them too : like someone else said I'd be reserved about using the metal mesh for plastering either where that metal gets itself wet on its own in certain weather conditions , it'll usually be much colder than the bales ever get when winter is on . Bamboo or Hazel or any wood stays very well preserved in clay / lime / soil plaster though , hundreds of years as long as there's no wicking up of water from the ground. Clay ( I'm lucky were on pure London clay ) is impervious by itself to most if not any conditions when only one outside face of it can get wet . It needs a tiny amount of limewash to the face to be set dry for the foreseeable. I'd recommend getting clay specifically in for the plaster layer if you can. We can supply wattle and daub mix or pure clay ( to English orders ! ) , it's the best pozolanic ingredient for ppc too.
Thanks for putting this video up !!
Wattle and Daub have kept many Tudor houses intact,,just like Cobb has done for hundred of years!!
Pre-dating the rebar as well!!
Best Wishes and Kindest Regards!!
Andrea and Animals!! .... XxX...
Looking forward to hiring you to build an Out Post Freedom Community! ❤️🌱
Awesome video!!!!
Great Video!
Thanks, Woody! I knew you'd like seeing more of the crew in action. :)
I very much appreciate your video!
It has been the most informative i have found on how to build in this style.
Currently I am planning a new build for a wedding venue and also would like to know if this form of building would lend well for an addition to a log home?
Any suggestions on this question would be greatly helpful, thank you so much.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad you found this video helpful. I’ve never done it, but I don’t see any reason why not to make your log home addition with a straw bale wall system.
Really useful. Thank you
Great and very intriguing video. Can you recommend any other moisture permeable insulation materials for the ceiling (ideally, easily biodegradable materials) to use instead of open cell spray foam?
Thanks! If you can afford it, wool or cotton batt insulation is great.
@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you! And very much looking forward to seeing more of your videos (especially on this building method).
@@HeirloomBuilders high, are blow-in cellulose, or wood fiber batts not common place as low-carbon insulation materials in NA? It's probably what we see most often here in Europe, and with the huge paper and lumber industry in NA, I'd imagine there's enough waste material for it to be a relatively afforbable, viable option.
Y'all have earthquakes?? 😳 This was a lot of information!! Great job!! 👍 ✨️
Will you sell plans for my build in Coconino county Az. ? Thanks
I'm curious if you have ever seen or done strawbale roofs? 18" deep rafters and sheathing or shiplap on the inside then strawbales in the rafter space befor another layer of sheathing, airspace, and roofing. I would add eaves without the bales ofcourse.
I’ve only heard of that being attempted once. I would think cellulose or blown insulation would be a better option for a more complete full of the cavity space and be less heavy
Awessssoooommmeee!!!!
Hey, great job! What about electricity?
I’m getting ready to build up in a high fire zone up in mendo and arguing with my dad about going straw over timber frame. My big question since we’re on a hill is if it’s worth it to do on post and beam without a slab
Probably would do a crawl or basement foundation on a steep lot instead of a slab. Just make sure to keep plenty of defensible space.
Do you sell a book? I'd need a guide on the whole process down to the most simple details for me xD
Hey Heirloom! We are on the coast in Wilmington, NC. What do you think about this type of construction with the threat of hurricanes/storm tide threats? Bad idea or great idea?
Hey Chad! Strawbale construction would be a bad idea in the event that tide or flood water could saturate your wall system. If you’re high enough above flood waters, it would be perfectly fine though.
odd question:
when having a property taxed, it is often based on sq footage. Would that be within the walls (so not counting 2 or 3' thick walls) or is that based on the foundation and therefore counts the walls' thickness, too? That also would affect minimum sq footage and most areas in the USA have a 900 sq ft minimum.
That is calculated on exterior dimensions and overall square footage including the wall thickness
@@HeirloomBuildersDon't tax my wall bro! 😅
Might be a dumb question, but how do I hang cabinets and shelves on walls made from straw?
For small things plaster screws and plugs, for larger items like cabinets framing wooden nailer boards behind the plaster securely anchored in the bale wall
I always wondered why you wouldn't frame the windows/ doors "inside" the bale house, so that you could take advantage of passive solar heating; any takes on that?
Not sure what you are getting at here. Are you meaning that an external window ledge would overhang the window and provide shade in the summer but the sun would be lower and would stream in through the winter? The issue there is you lose very convenient deep interior window sills for plants and if those sills are outside, they would need to be very sloped as not to collect rain and snow. Framing the window even with the outer wall doesn't hurt passive gain if your angles and eves are right. I would much rather frame this way also because you have room for double blinds or window quilts for night and long winter storms.
Did this home have an AC unit installed? I haven’t seen anyone show how to run duct work for that.
What was the total cost to build such a home?
A straw bale wall must be not a good idea in tropical, humid and very rainy climates, is it?
Correct, it needs to be able to dry out
I don't know, of course but...unless one lives in a desert or semi-desert location sooner or later moisture will get in the wall space and 100% movement out through the wall, no matter what they are finished in, is very unlikely in the long term. Black mould would be a concern and over time rodents WILL find their way in. Maybe your analogy to the little pig straw build was in humour but
except for the upfront cost savings, for my money there are many, many better materials out there with more coming online all the time. Can you even get insurance for such a dwelling?
How did you calculate how much sand/lime you needed to render the house?
We use about 20 gallons (or 3 cubic feet) of plaster per 100 sq ft of wall surface per coat, on average. That equates to 2 cu ft of lime and 6 cu ft of mortar sand per 100 sq ft of wall surface for 3 coats. A cubic meter (or cubic yard) of lime combined with 3 cu yds of sand will cover roughly 1400 sq ft of surface (or roughly 155 sq meters of wall surface) with 3 coats of plaster.
@@HeirloomBuildersUnderrated response! Props.
Does this end up being any cheaper than a conventionally framed and insulated home?
Short answer is no. Unless you plan to do it yourself.
@@HeirloomBuilders would you consider doing just the framing for a home?
@@fn8571 maybe, but we have a very small service area in NC and unable to travel
@@HeirloomBuilders I actually plan on moving to NC from Wyoming sometime in the next few years
@@HeirloomBuilders do you cover the morganton/valdese area?
I was excited to see a low-carbon insulation material being used in your video, but then I immediately threw my arms up in the air and sighed when I saw you insulating your roof with sprayfoam insulation. Is there any specific reason why you didn't go with blow-in cellulose, or wood fiber batts for example? I know there generally a little more expensive than synthetic insulation materials, but unlike those, they also provide other benefits beyond a high R value. The price difference also isn't astronomical either, so imo it's a shame to use it in an otherwise relatively low-carbon building.
I don’t think stucco is breathable, the word I typically heard is vapor open. If it was “breathable” you could blow throw it. Water vapor can travel through the stucco making it vapor open or permeable.
Where are you located. And can we hire you to build a Strawbale home.
We are based in central North Carolina. Where are you?
Is it possible to have square edges on interior walls and windows instead of curved? Thanks.
Yes, for sure. I’ve seen some beautiful pictures of Strawbale homes built with squared windows.
Straw bale houses are deceptively expensive. They shouldn't be, but they are. They usually cost just as much as any other type of building.
I think it depends on how much work you hire out or do yourself.
And if the floor plan is simple.
Your sequencing of events, stucco walls to bales of hay to wall studs to roof being placed is enough to make a person have an epileptic fit.
Interesting build but disjointed presentation.