Awesome show and tell brother Eric 😱!!!! Leave it to Mitch to keep pushing the envelope with his dedication and innovation 😍. Another thing I found in testing is how butter smooth the pivot action is putting these pins through Delrin 😍. Just glides effortlessly. Breaking diff cases sucks big-time. This is a serious break through both in performance and time saved in repairs. Swapping arms just got a lot easier. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
These blocks front and rear will be available soon on the M2C website.👊 Also Forgot to mention with the front block being made taller since it takes the most abuse, you will need to remove it to access your front diff.🤘
Wow this is perfect. I’ve blown so many diff cases on bad landings I lost count. This is perfect for my awful driving lol! Thanks for sharing this. Very impressive!
Now that Mitch has basically the full compliment for the 6s line, seems like the best way to build an ultimate v4 is to grab all the m2c parts, grab a hardware bag, drivetrain and the composites off Jenny's, and toss in your electronics of choice and build from scratch like a kit!
Those look really nice. Next time I bust a diff case I'll get these. It's a shame I have all the Voltage stuff. But this is a much better design. Thanks for breaking it all down for us 😎👍👊
Thanks for the video and to Mich for coming up with the design, when I installed my front set I realised then that the FR hindge pin doesn't bult to the chassis, do you recommend just leaving the two screws out the would secure the FR the the chassis? Many thanks Darren
Hell Yeah!! Been waiting on this. Props to Mitch for a very well and beautiful design. Love the locking nut. Good pointing the replaceable delrin inserts bro. Great how to install man. I was running a stock FF hinge pin block that I dug out from my graveyard parts bin just get the Kraton out LOL 😂 😂. This will certainly replace it. Awesome video Eric 👍
Absolutely bro! These are absolutely beautiful and love the overall design! Mitch is killin it!👌I know what you mean about the parts bin. Definitely been there!🤣😎🤘🤘
Hi, I just installed front and rear hinge pin kits on my EXB. I had trouble getting the wriggler nuts on far enough on the shaft because the shaft kept turning while I was tightening it. I put red loctite too. Do you think using a shock tool to tighten would be easier ? Thx !
If you put on the small nut first with red thread lock and tighten it down then put on the rear locknut while holding the front nut with a wrench, it should tighten. Also the rear locknuts don't need to be over tight. The whole pin kinda floats. Hope this helps!
You have to use this kit in full for it to work. M2C offers plain hinge pins that will work with stock but in order to use the locking system, these blocks are required.😎👊
They are the same except the onroad version has a 1 degree tow on the blocks for speed runs. Everything else is the same! You can use them for bashing too!😎👊🤘
Eric, Do you need to remove the whole diff case like that or you think I could just remove "what's necessary" around the casing? I will only be installing the rear. Thanks bud. Cool that mitch included an extra hinge pin, might as well just made it an even 4 tho 🎯 Props to mitch.... Gonna be installing this tonight or tomorrow
You don't need to I just did that to show the parts and how they work. Easier for me to film. It would be easier imo to get the inside blocks on with the case off but whatever works for you! Yeah love how he throws in spare bits!😜Just make sure to use red thread lock on the inside nuts and use the plastic washers. Good luck with it!👍🤘🤘
@@RCDUDE81 are the loctite bolts towards the rear or inside of the car (when doing rear kit)? Maybe I could do loctite for now and eventually switch to red later?.... If those bolts are the inside ones mat be a pain. Thoughts. Thanks Eric
Definitely gotta add them to the list. But hey I gotta question.. I just got n m2c chassis n when I went to install the front diff.. the big gear in the diff case rubs on the chassis pretty bad.. the chassis looks like its bin milled deep enough n if it is then its something else.. have u ever had that gear rub like that.. n e things u think of that I should check out..oh yea it's a v2 case.. should I switch to v4 cases or r they the same height.. n e ideas would help.. thanks n thumbs up my brother
Hello sir, I have ordered all m2c parts fir my V4 typhon and wanted to know if you recommend HR aluminum diff cases for front and back or stock is better. Thank you
Awesome! M2C beef!💪I love the HR cases! I run them in almost my cars in the rear especially. They don't break plus helps save your diffs since the plastic expands under heat. A great upgrade!👌
So what would I need to upgrade my typhon 3s to 6s. As I'm noticing that I'm starting to stress the stock suspension out as I'm getting more big air an yes few of the landing was kinda ruff 😂😂
6s electronics or suspension? Probably a good idea to keep it 3 or 4s but you can upgrade the shocks to 6s Typhon shocks. That will be a bit better if you are doing larger jumps. I'd recommend going 30-35 weight oil though.😎👊
Why does the b block in the kit not look like the one your installing. The cut out is a different shape. The one your installing is more of a round half circle for the drive shaft. I noticed this when I ordered my kit and I can see it in the unopened pack on your video.
Not with the stock bumper/skid assembly. The a and d blocks stock are different than the other 6s rigs. If you're running T-bone bumpers, they will work.😎👊
The EXB has a different front system being it uses the A block for a bumper/skid configuration. The rears will work with this kit as its the same as the other models. M2C is working on a front block design now that will also work with the Mojave.🤙
Well, It has great features but I just wanted beefier electronics in my 8s. It's basically a Max6. It seems to have a lag in the power feed too which I could never figure out. The Max5 solved all! It is a decent ESC especially if your into using the bluetooth module but that's totally subjective. I think honestly that ESC is better suited in a 1/7 scale.😎💪🤘🤘
Dude thanks for the video if you didn’t make this video I would have never known he had some just wish I knew he was going to come out with some before I ordered I sent from just bash it but I’m definitely still going to order a set tomorrow
No problem bro!👊Yeah these have been in the making for a while. The 8s parts kinda stalled other projects. Worth the wait though this kit is stellar!😎👊🤙🤙
Hey can you make a little bit of an update video I had some trouble when I was ordering my stuff from M2c racing just got off the phone with him maybe specify which different blocks like A-Block B-block something about when I place my order on the website I got a replacement part are something like that I was kind of confused of what he was talking about But I got my order all figured out and my stuff is on the way
@@aaronverrett69 The A block is the very front of the truck. Also slides in where the stock bumper lip would go. B block is the rear of the front diff case, C block is the inside of the rear diff case and D block is the very rear of the truck. Wasn't sure if that was the question or not but feel free to ask if you have any more questions! Glad you got the order sorted out and on the way!
this design will rip your diff off the chassis . i got that problem just because the pin can't pop out on hard impact then the energy transfer to weakest point . the weakest point is 4 screws from chassis to your plastic diff .
Awesome show and tell brother Eric 😱!!!! Leave it to Mitch to keep pushing the envelope with his dedication and innovation 😍. Another thing I found in testing is how butter smooth the pivot action is putting these pins through Delrin 😍. Just glides effortlessly. Breaking diff cases sucks big-time. This is a serious break through both in performance and time saved in repairs. Swapping arms just got a lot easier. 🍻👍👍😎💪👊👊
These blocks front and rear will be available soon on the M2C website.👊 Also Forgot to mention with the front block being made taller since it takes the most abuse, you will need to remove it to access your front diff.🤘
This might be a must have. Nice work showing it and explaining how it works. Thanks for sharing
What a Freggin great idea...Mitch is the man!
Look forwarding to the testing vids 🎯😎
MITCH IS THA MAN!!!
Wow this is perfect. I’ve blown so many diff cases on bad landings I lost count. This is perfect for my awful driving lol! Thanks for sharing this. Very impressive!
🤣I've been there too bro! This design should definitely help!👌😎👊🤙
So genius.its so nice to have parts that are meant to survive and be strong n solve our issues.
Absolutely brother!👊Mitch is always on par with strategic designs!😍💪💪🤘
Thanks for sharing Eric , I will always appreciate a good how to vid and also being
Kept up to date on the new M2C goodies !!
Seems like a truely great part, will definitely get this in my next order! 👍
Thanks for the tip and demonstration! 👊
Very intersting solution 😁👍nice Job!
Arrma should just hire m2c to build their next Notorious 8s. LOL
Very nice!!! Looks promising 😎👍🏼
Nice design. Can't wait to see how the testing on your Typhon goes.👍💪👊
Now that Mitch has basically the full compliment for the 6s line, seems like the best way to build an ultimate v4 is to grab all the m2c parts, grab a hardware bag, drivetrain and the composites off Jenny's, and toss in your electronics of choice and build from scratch like a kit!
Sounds like a plan!💪The upper mount and top plate is next and all bases should be covered!😎🤙
sweet man looking on line for them now
Nice! I might have to get a set or two of these.
Ohh snap another part I have to add to my list.
Huge thanks bud. 👊😀
Those look really nice. Next time I bust a diff case I'll get these. It's a shame I have all the Voltage stuff. But this is a much better design. Thanks for breaking it all down for us 😎👍👊
Thanks Ed!👊Yeah these are super nice blocks and a strategic design as always by Mitch!😎👊🤙
Awesome video very impressive upgrade great job thumbs up 👍👊🤟
Awesome. My Arrma's gonna bounce off the moon. lol
well said...lol🤣😂🤣😂🤣
cool assembly and overview,cool video
Thanks so much! Very nice parts!😎👊
Very nice! Those look super beefcake!!
Thanks for the video and to Mich for coming up with the design, when I installed my front set I realised then that the FR hindge pin doesn't bult to the chassis, do you recommend just leaving the two screws out the would secure the FR the the chassis?
Many thanks
Darren
Yes the B block no longer bolts to the chassis but does on the front A block. If that was your question.🤔🤣
When will it be back in stock?
Been waiting for this part from m2c forever! I hope he releases them soon. Cant find on website currently
He had a slowdown in production bc of hardware not coming in on time but should be Monday!!👊
Anyone know if this will install and have enough clearance since I have the TBone wheelie bar installed in the same area?
Hell Yeah!! Been waiting on this. Props to Mitch for a very well and beautiful design. Love the locking nut. Good pointing the replaceable delrin inserts bro. Great how to install man. I was running a stock FF hinge pin block that I dug out from my graveyard parts bin just get the Kraton out LOL 😂 😂. This will certainly replace it. Awesome video Eric 👍
Absolutely bro! These are absolutely beautiful and love the overall design! Mitch is killin it!👌I know what you mean about the parts bin. Definitely been there!🤣😎🤘🤘
Finally!!!🤘💪
Don't see them on the site.😢
@rcdude81 why don't you send me a set to test on a big block Noto, pleeeeaseee🤫😉
It will be tomorrow!😎👊
@@RCDUDE81 👊Sweet
Hi, I just installed front and rear hinge pin kits on my EXB. I had trouble getting the wriggler nuts on far enough on the shaft because the shaft kept turning while I was tightening it. I put red loctite too. Do you think using a shock tool to tighten would be easier ? Thx !
If you put on the small nut first with red thread lock and tighten it down then put on the rear locknut while holding the front nut with a wrench, it should tighten. Also the rear locknuts don't need to be over tight. The whole pin kinda floats. Hope this helps!
Can you run just the captured hinge pins on the stock setup?
You have to use this kit in full for it to work. M2C offers plain hinge pins that will work with stock but in order to use the locking system, these blocks are required.😎👊
RC DUDE81 thanks man!
May I ask why they are labelled as onroad? Are they not recommended for offtoad use?
They are the same except the onroad version has a 1 degree tow on the blocks for speed runs. Everything else is the same! You can use them for bashing too!😎👊🤘
Eric,
Do you need to remove the whole diff case like that or you think I could just remove "what's necessary" around the casing? I will only be installing the rear.
Thanks bud.
Cool that mitch included an extra hinge pin, might as well just made it an even 4 tho 🎯
Props to mitch.... Gonna be installing this tonight or tomorrow
You don't need to I just did that to show the parts and how they work. Easier for me to film. It would be easier imo to get the inside blocks on with the case off but whatever works for you! Yeah love how he throws in spare bits!😜Just make sure to use red thread lock on the inside nuts and use the plastic washers. Good luck with it!👍🤘🤘
@@RCDUDE81 thanks Eric.
don't have any red just blue, gonna have to brave this Covid 19 world and get some
Well you can use blue just clean the threads with alcohol or brake cleaner first to get off any oily residue then lock her down!👌
@@RCDUDE81 are the loctite bolts towards the rear or inside of the car (when doing rear kit)? Maybe I could do loctite for now and eventually switch to red later?.... If those bolts are the inside ones mat be a pain. Thoughts.
Thanks Eric
It's the non lock nut ones that go toward the inside of the car. Blue for now should be fine. Just keep a tightness check on them!👌
Nice!
Definitely gotta add them to the list. But hey I gotta question.. I just got n m2c chassis n when I went to install the front diff.. the big gear in the diff case rubs on the chassis pretty bad.. the chassis looks like its bin milled deep enough n if it is then its something else.. have u ever had that gear rub like that.. n e things u think of that I should check out..oh yea it's a v2 case.. should I switch to v4 cases or r they the same height.. n e ideas would help.. thanks n thumbs up my brother
Thanks strange bro!🤔I haven't had that with any of my trucks that I noticed...what truck is it?
Great video - is this compatible with the Mojave 6s?
Thanks!👊No he will be working on another design for the Mojave. Bc of the way the bumper/skid plate is it would interfere with the locknuts.
Hello sir, I have ordered all m2c parts fir my V4 typhon and wanted to know if you recommend HR aluminum diff cases for front and back or stock is better.
Thank you
Awesome! M2C beef!💪I love the HR cases! I run them in almost my cars in the rear especially. They don't break plus helps save your diffs since the plastic expands under heat. A great upgrade!👌
@@RCDUDE81 are the HR CASES compatible with the m2c parts?
@@nadersedaghat5694 Yessir!👊
So what would I need to upgrade my typhon 3s to 6s. As I'm noticing that I'm starting to stress the stock suspension out as I'm getting more big air an yes few of the landing was kinda ruff 😂😂
6s electronics or suspension? Probably a good idea to keep it 3 or 4s but you can upgrade the shocks to 6s Typhon shocks. That will be a bit better if you are doing larger jumps. I'd recommend going 30-35 weight oil though.😎👊
@@RCDUDE81 ya been thinking 4s elec. 6s suspension. Just wasn't sure if I had the right idea thanks on information!👍👍 thanks
Why does the b block in the kit not look like the one your installing. The cut out is a different shape. The one your installing is more of a round half circle for the drive shaft. I noticed this when I ordered my kit and I can see it in the unopened pack on your video.
Not sure🤔These were prototype blocks so maybe they made a couple changes since.
Hey Erik,
Will those fits the Mojave?...
Not with the stock bumper/skid assembly. The a and d blocks stock are different than the other 6s rigs. If you're running T-bone bumpers, they will work.😎👊
@@RCDUDE81 yeah i do have T bone.. great..
So i will order set for front and rear.. 👌
Are the front and rear blocks the same on the Kraton EXB?
The EXB has a different front system being it uses the A block for a bumper/skid configuration. The rears will work with this kit as its the same as the other models. M2C is working on a front block design now that will also work with the Mojave.🤙
@@RCDUDE81 thanks!
so i looked on m2c to check out the price and i didn't see it, has mitch not posted it yet?
nvm i just seen there not available
Yeah it will hopefully be next week!👊He's working on some final details.
@@RCDUDE81 SWEET.. It could not have came at a better time!!!
Hi man i have a question off this subject, what is your thoughts about the new spektrum 150amp smart esc?
Well, It has great features but I just wanted beefier electronics in my 8s. It's basically a Max6. It seems to have a lag in the power feed too which I could never figure out. The Max5 solved all! It is a decent ESC especially if your into using the bluetooth module but that's totally subjective. I think honestly that ESC is better suited in a 1/7 scale.😎💪🤘🤘
I'm talking about the new 6S ESC not 8S
@@raptorider83 Gotcha. I'm not familiar with that one..🤔
Any ideas if it would work with the kraton EXB?
The rear kit will work but the front you will need to change to a RPM bumper or T-bone Typhon bumper.😎👊
@@RCDUDE81 oh as long as it works. I appreciate the quick reply. 🤙
Deez nuts. 5:10 🤣...Awesome video per the usual. Thanks!
Dude thanks for the video if you didn’t make this video I would have never known he had some just wish I knew he was going to come out with some before I ordered I sent from just bash it but I’m definitely still going to order a set tomorrow
No problem bro!👊Yeah these have been in the making for a while. The 8s parts kinda stalled other projects. Worth the wait though this kit is stellar!😎👊🤙🤙
There was a small issue with production so it will probably be next week! I'll make sure to keep everyone posted!👊
Ok sounds good
Hey can you make a little bit of an update video I had some trouble when I was ordering my stuff from M2c racing just got off the phone with him maybe specify which different blocks like A-Block B-block something about when I place my order on the website I got a replacement part are something like that I was kind of confused of what he was talking about But I got my order all figured out and my stuff is on the way
@@aaronverrett69 The A block is the very front of the truck. Also slides in where the stock bumper lip would go. B block is the rear of the front diff case, C block is the inside of the rear diff case and D block is the very rear of the truck. Wasn't sure if that was the question or not but feel free to ask if you have any more questions! Glad you got the order sorted out and on the way!
check it out, its feature packed 3-6s
M2c doesn’t deliver to my area in Florida . I want to buy 3 beef kits🤦🏽♂️
What area?🤔
Why is it so expensive? Seems way over the top 🤔
Not sure on his pricing🤔It's over the top quality parts at least!🤗💪🤘🤘
this design will rip your diff off the chassis . i got that problem just because the pin can't pop out on hard impact then the energy transfer to weakest point . the weakest point is 4 screws from chassis to your plastic diff .