I subscribed because of this video. Clear and consice instructions for the PID calibration. That's been hanging over my head as I calibrate my first FDM printer and you made it infinitely more approachable. Thanks.
Thank you very much for your tutorial! Neptune 3 Pro is my first (own) FDM printer and I find the print quality after tuning just stunning (especially compared to our Ultimaker S3 at work)!
When I read this I thought, meh this must be an overstatement. Then I tried it myself, safe to say I was amazed. Using 200 C nozzle and 70 C buildplate (cura defaults for some reason) I do have a little way to go on the edges but damn! the sides of the tiny 1cm calibration cube are incredibly smooth on 0.1mm thickness.
Thank for making this clear for new people like me. So much information out there that is way too confusing, incomplete, or just assumes this is my 10th printer.
Flow tuning is not really part of tuning the printer. It's a filament related parameter. There are lots of other parameters that should be tuned for each filament type and brand if you want the best results. Just to name a few; temperature, pressure/linear advance, retraction. One more printer related tuning I know of is the X Y Z axis calibration. Check if a 100m movement command really results in 100mm movement and not 99mm for example. Doubt if it's necessary for an out of the box printer though.
These sound like fantastic tips that everyone should do. I ordered a Neptune 3 Plus but it hasn't arrived yet. I want to do this when I get it set up, I'm a complete beginner and unfamiliar with the software you mentioned. Will these changes we enter stay in firmware for the life of the printer? Will they have to be re-entered each time we update the firmware, and should we go through the procedure again or just use the same values? If you could talk more about what you're doing that wold help complete beginners like me. Thank you for an excellent post.
Changing the steps per mm value can be easily changed directly on the printer in "Settings/Advanced Settings/Motor Settings/E-axis pulse" and here is number of steps per mm for extruder. You don't need to do it via computer. In my case running PID tuning doesn't work. Apparently firmware version 1.1 does not support the M303 command. It throws me errors and the printer freezes. But Thank you for great video
Correct most machines with marlin 2 have the steps per mm in an advanced motion menu. There’s a newer firmware that supports the m303 command available for the Neptune 3 pro. Highly recommend updating! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this Gorn! Completely new to 3D printing and had no idea where to derive 'steps per mm'; this helped and now my Neptune 3 Pro properly extrudes that 100mm.
@@dayzclips9093 I am wondering the same thing. I have had my printer for 3 days now and one thing I am learning is that the 3d printing community so far is not very helpful. Hopefulyy its just bad luck in these few days but it hasnt been a good experience so far.
Thanks for the video. Just got my Neptune 3 setup and I am brand new to 3d printing. Fortunately I have a background in CNC/machining and a lot of this makes sense. But the video definitely helped!
Thanks dude! For some weird reason my neptune started under extruding and other stuff. whatever I printed turned out to be Kanye glasses. Now it's a lot better. I'll probably do a deeper dive with the teaching tech method but it's intimidating. this tutorial med the level of entry much lower. thanks again /Bo
Dang! None of this I have ever seen online for tuning any FDM printer. Been struggling with my Neptune 3 on getting adhesion and proper layers placed since I got it! Thanks for the information, gonna go do this now.
Got a question. So I'm a little lost of the extruder steps. This is my current value echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E380.00, and when I did the 100mm, I had 13mm left. So is it (100x380)/87=436? So I'd store 436? Just tried it with 436 and YUP.. Thanks, great video!
Thank you for the video! One problem I ran into: after sending the M303 E0 S205 C10 command, the console threw this error: echo: Heating Failed Error: Printer halted. kill() called! Any idea what should I do in order to run the auto tuning?
On some printers you can find that in the settings directly. Otherwise you use a tool like Pronterface and send the command M501 to you printer. The printer then responds with several lines of info. Look for the line beginning with M92 and use the number after "E".
Holy bananas. I’m curious about the program you used, pronterface? Do you have any tutorials for the oblivious (me 😂) to this? I have a 2 brand new Neptune 3’s. One works great. The other not so much but I’m not very proficient in the whole tuning thing. Thanks for this video it’s awesome and so helpful
Hello! Don't know if you had the same problem with Elegoo N3Pro: offset toolhead centering. As you tap "Level" on the menu screen, the toolhead automatically goes a little to the right, and starts autolevelling also off-centered. Contacting Elegoo support didnt actually help. If you have any idea, I'd be more than happy to learn from you. Many thanks for the vid!
I'll have to give this a few more views when trying to fix my Neptune 3 😅🤣 Got it set up today, with the white filament they include. Tried printing the Buddha - and RED stringing came out?! When I gave it WHITE filament?! Now I have a nozzle covered in white goo and lost patience 🤪
Hi. Have just set the same PrusaSlicer settings as you have, and i got my Neptune 3 PRO yesterday. But what about retraction settings? just use the standard creality v2 settings ? 5mm and 60 in speed ? ive heard that direct drive extruders need less retraction at lower speed. Did you just use the standard creality settings as shown in this video ? Thanks for all the information btw. I love your videos! 🤩
Great video. I have a question on calibrating Cura times with actual print times on the Neptune 3. My actual print times are quite a bit higher than Elegoo's Cura version. How do I get Cura's time to be more accurate? Thanks!
I think this has been a common problem for a while in cura, i'm not sure there is a workaround. Prusa Slicer has pretty accurate print time predictions. I would highly recommend making the switch!
Greatly appreciated the video! I received a used Neptune 3 Pro and while attempting to get it adjusted I ran into an issue, the left side of the z-axis lead screw on the gantry frame (If you are looking at the front of the printer) is not moving at all. Is there a way to tighten or loosen a z-axis lead screw?
I put in a order for the 3 Pro. But I wanna print with the CHT nozzle. What upgrades would you recommend? and what version of the CHT nozzle is best value and most reliable(durable)?
I’ve never used the cht nozzles! I’d just order a few of the cheap ones off Ali express and source some high heat thermal paste. Looks like the only difference in the cheap Chinese cht nozzles is the depth of the chamfer on the inlet, maybe grab a nice countersink bit and ream them out a little. As for mods I’m not sure you’d need any? Can always grab a few extra pei build plates tho!
Sorry back again. How exactly do you find your current steps? Do you just send a M501 command then look at the number next to the 'E' on line M92? Because if so, then for me that number is currently 380 which seems excessive when comparing it to this video and your esteps which is 135. And just for clarification, in order to find the amount extruded, after measuring and marking 100mm of filament and telling the machine to extrude 100mm of filament, you subtract the amount that's left from where you marked from 100 and that's the amount actually extruded, right? My problem is, since the machine says my current steps per mm is 380, my equation is (100 x 380) / 87.5 = 434.29, the reason I question it is because I noticed your Steps per mm in the screenshot in the video is 135, which is a far cry off from the numbers I'm getting, is this normal? One last question, should I be rounding or is using decimals ok?
Yes! That’s correct, M501 will list the current steps for all axis and E is the extruder. Since I was under extruding I had remaining filament not extruded so I subtracted that amount from 100. Some extruders use gear ratios. If you have a titan style extruder than around 400 steps is common. I might have used some screen cap from the Neptune 3 non pro which has no gearing so it’s a lower step per mm. 420+ seems high, try heating up your extruder higher than you would normally for pla and feed the 100mm at a very very low speed. This will ensure that there’s no steps lost due to the hotend not being to melt the filament fast enough. I hope that helps!
Up to you! I’ve only just started using the s1 so I’m unsure of the differences other than the use of an abl sensor vs the inductive sensor on the Neptune 3 pro
0:33 eccentric nuts, not concentric! in other words, they are intentionally off-centered, so adjusting them in a circle will increase/decrease the lateral (sideways) tension. :)
I wanted to avoid that to dissuade people from using values specific to my machine. A good rule of thumb is that the values shouldn’t waver too much from the original as we are just fine tuning here. Thanks for watching
Just got this and should all 3 V wheels on the z axis be touching the frame? The middle centric wheel and the top are solid, but the bottom most one is really loose (on both side)
I haven't seen a video of someone explaining and recommending setting in prusa 2.6 for elegoo. Maybe an idea for a video, I think you could explain it really well😁
If you’re just looking for a smooth surface on the bottom of your parts you can get non textured pei coated steel that would have that effect. You could swap the sensor for a probe but I think you’d be in for some hefty firmware edits
I have the Ender 3 pro. I got into 3d printing very recently. I’m one of those oblivious people. I have so many questions. But I’ll try to learn from this video as i go. My obvious question is will this tuning work for my E3 P? I tried leveling the pad. If i had hair i would have pulled it all out. I tried following people’s paper process. That’s a nightmare because when you do the back the don’t get off and Vice verse. It’s made me put my printer on a shelf and forget about it. I need help! Don’t know which way to turn.
I know this is a couple months old, but are you talking about leveling your bed? If so, the first time could take a little while to get it right. Just start at one corner, what you're looking for is for the paper to have slight drag on it. When you go around and do the other three, you'll notice once you get back to the first one you did, the paper will probably not slide under it. That's when you do it again, it will all "level" out after a few times. Once the four corners are done, move the extruder to the center of the bed and check clearance, adjust from the four corners just a hair to get it where it needs to be. This will get you up and printing on your Ender 3 Pro. It's a great machine to start with, and once you're going on it, it begs to be upgraded. Hope this helps.
HELP!! having major issues adhearing to the bed aftere doing this, I have a neptune 3 max. No matter what I do nothing is working, deep clean bed, ness with temp, level and auto level, put code in cura to auto level before prints. But no matter what I do nothings sticks and if it does it is inconsistent throughout the bed. PLEASE HELP!
I need help with the formula part when extruding, I can’t really see what your imputing to represent mine, could you tell me what you did and what you imputed. I want 100mm but 9.5 is left and so I multiplied it, but when I divide what did get extruded and the x, it gives my 10.5(rounded). Can you help me
It’s just a software that connects over usb to your machine and gives you a console to both send and receive info from your printer. I think it’s also installed when installing prusa slicer!
I think more depth of calculating e-steps would make the video much better. You don't say how to find the current e-steps. When I run M501 before updating my e-steps, the steps per unit value is blank. So how to I know my current steps to complete the formula so I can update it with the M92 command?
This is one of the biggest problems with TH-cam videos. The video is good, I really appreciate it. But it can be seen that either the creator made it for those who already know the minimum of the programs and terminology used, or it is just an excuse to carry out paid advertising. I have the same doubts as you.
can someone help me out? I am not understanding the math problem. I have the Neptune 3 Pro and the E value says 380. i told my N3P to load 100mm and it only extruded 92 so what is the exact command i type into pronterface? then i ran the PID autotune and got values P27.21 I3.01 D61.51 but when i type that with M301 it says "SENDING:M301 P27.21 I3.01 D61.51" and doesnt change do i need to wait longer or type a different command?
after uploading the new pid values, type M500 to save, and M501 to refresh your printers saved settings where it should be updated. your new e steps should be 413 according to your results. thanks for watching
Maybe late for you but helpful for others. His example is pretty confusing because he doesn't show the actual message you need to type. So you get the current E-value (from typing M501) which might be 380, multiply that with the 100/YourValue (which was 92) to get 413, the actual message you type will be M92 E413, no parenthesis or anything.
I tried tonight, and it gets stuck on ‘connecting’. I’ve tried all baudrates, I even installed a CH340 driver as someone else suggested. It stays on ‘connecting’. It’s 100% the correct port, no other apps are running & no other USBs are plugged in. I’m stumped! It’s over-extruding by exactly 5mm and I can’t fix it 😭💔
Thank you for a great tutorial, when I use m301 command to set new values , I get a message SENDING and it’s not changing to anything else without setting new values , what’s my issue ? Thank you again
I have a problem with lines , the walls are not smooth, everything is tighten and like it should be, but there are mini lines you can see if you look from the top. any suggestion?
Forgive me if I sound dumb here. My default "E" value is 380. It only extruded 85.31mm. So with that formula my new "E" would be 445.5? Thanks! Update: I just went for it and re-tested. Ended up being at 465. Thanks!! Now to tune my ender 3 max neo :)
Oddly enough my E steps were at 380. I plugged in the equation and got 514. Which seemed extreme, but after trials and error before the formula it was perfect
I just sent the code on printerface to check the temp and it gave me a thermal runaway error. Any suggestions? What should I do about it? I had to turn the printer off completely
0:42 I'm confused I thought the wheels were supposed to be tight against the gantry so the wheels didnt rotate slightly. Can someone help me understand that? Maybe that's why prints are coming out they way they are.
Yep this’ll work for the standard Neptune 3 too. Just need a way to send gcode commands to the machine. The e step calibration can be found on the machine itself in the advanced menu but pid autotune commands need to be sent over usb I believe. There are a handful of gcode senders but I find pronter face to be the easiest!
So ive been using Lychee for over a year now, and i had my Neptune3pro dialed in perfectly. But then my exports kept crashing suddenly in Lychee so i swapped to Cura and tried to put the settings i had from Lychee and ran a Benchy, ans now the arm just jams itself in a corner and dumps plastic. Any suggestions?
you can send an M501 command to echo all the settings saved on your printer if youre connected over usb or you can look in the advanced menu on the neptune 3
just a heads up for those doing the extruder calibration please use the M501 command first to get the extruder steps as I overlooked it and messed up but luckily I wrote it down, mine started with 380mm Neptune 3 Pro
My Neptune 3 Pro went into thermal runaway after the PID autotune completed, it showed the final values and all in Pronterface, but the 3D printer had a warning and audible alert going on screen. Any ideas why this happened? Yes, I'm on latest non-beta firmware by the way.
If I might ask, once you send the command for setting the new PID values, how do you get them to stick? I've run the test and received the suggested values, but upon entering in the M301 command and listing the new parameters, it just shows "Sending" and then nothing else. When I use the M501 to check and see if the new settings stuck....I get the same old values. I must be missing something here. Any suggestions?
great tips! 👏😎
Thanks 😊 🙏🏼
I got you
I'd love more tip videos like this for the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro! This helped me out a LOT.
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching :)
Hot damn! I've never ever done this before and for sure will be trying this out and seeing how the prints compare!
Thanks Dude! I've gotten a bunch of resin printing tips from your channel as well! glad I could pass on some tips to a pro :)
Well how did it turn out? I noticed he didnt do a before and after model to show any improvements...
@uncleJesse Maybe an easy to follow tut for newbie’s 🤪🤩
I subscribed because of this video. Clear and consice instructions for the PID calibration. That's been hanging over my head as I calibrate my first FDM printer and you made it infinitely more approachable. Thanks.
Awesome glad i could help! thank you for watching! and subscribing! :)
This is my first printer and ordered another one. Would love to see more Neptune 3 pro videos!
These are such good little machines, can’t beat them for the price. Lots more n3pro content coming!
Thank you very much for your tutorial! Neptune 3 Pro is my first (own) FDM printer and I find the print quality after tuning just stunning (especially compared to our Ultimaker S3 at work)!
Glad it helped! this really is a great budget machine!
Super helpful video! My extruder was only push 83 mm instead of 100mm and the PID analysis showed some big differences. Thank you so much!
awesome! glad this helped :)
Your PID adjustment tutorial was PERFECT. I'm printing a new calibration cube as I write this comment!
Did exactly what you said, and Bada Bing bomb. PERFECT prints! And I mean super close to resin quality! Thanks for all the work you do my dude😁
When I read this I thought, meh this must be an overstatement. Then I tried it myself, safe to say I was amazed. Using 200 C nozzle and 70 C buildplate (cura defaults for some reason) I do have a little way to go on the edges but damn! the sides of the tiny 1cm calibration cube are incredibly smooth on 0.1mm thickness.
Thank for making this clear for new people like me. So much information out there that is way too confusing, incomplete, or just assumes this is my 10th printer.
One last tip. Print a thin cube to save filament. Check the surface and adjust flow to get a nice top layer.
Flow tuning is not really part of tuning the printer. It's a filament related parameter. There are lots of other parameters that should be tuned for each filament type and brand if you want the best results. Just to name a few; temperature, pressure/linear advance, retraction.
One more printer related tuning I know of is the X Y Z axis calibration. Check if a 100m movement command really results in 100mm movement and not 99mm for example. Doubt if it's necessary for an out of the box printer though.
These sound like fantastic tips that everyone should do. I ordered a Neptune 3 Plus but it hasn't arrived yet. I want to do this when I get it set up, I'm a complete beginner and unfamiliar with the software you mentioned.
Will these changes we enter stay in firmware for the life of the printer?
Will they have to be re-entered each time we update the firmware, and should we go through the procedure again or just use the same values?
If you could talk more about what you're doing that wold help complete beginners like me. Thank you for an excellent post.
Easy, quick and right to the point. Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
Changing the steps per mm value can be easily changed directly on the printer in "Settings/Advanced Settings/Motor Settings/E-axis pulse" and here is number of steps per mm for extruder. You don't need to do it via computer.
In my case running PID tuning doesn't work. Apparently firmware version 1.1 does not support the M303 command. It throws me errors and the printer freezes.
But Thank you for great video
Correct most machines with marlin 2 have the steps per mm in an advanced motion menu.
There’s a newer firmware that supports the m303 command available for the Neptune 3 pro. Highly recommend updating!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this Gorn! Completely new to 3D printing and had no idea where to derive 'steps per mm'; this helped and now my Neptune 3 Pro properly extrudes that 100mm.
Thank you! I was struggling understanding where to get the current steps per mm value until I read your comment!
ok when i get to that setting its showing 380 how do i know what to change it too
@@dayzclips9093 I am wondering the same thing. I have had my printer for 3 days now and one thing I am learning is that the 3d printing community so far is not very helpful. Hopefulyy its just bad luck in these few days but it hasnt been a good experience so far.
Thanks for the video. Just got my Neptune 3 setup and I am brand new to 3d printing. Fortunately I have a background in CNC/machining and a lot of this makes sense. But the video definitely helped!
Thanks dude!
For some weird reason my neptune started under extruding and other stuff. whatever I printed turned out to be Kanye glasses. Now it's a lot better. I'll probably do a deeper dive with the teaching tech method but it's intimidating. this tutorial med the level of entry much lower.
thanks again
/Bo
Perfect! Even I find the teaching tech guides to be a little hard to follow sometimes. Glad this got you started on the road to the perfect print :)
Excellent guide, thank you! Don’t forget sending M500 to save the new parameters.
This video and this chanel's content is gold. Keep up the great work!
If I ever get home again (not looking likely) and I get my CR-10S running these ideas have some helpful hints I'll happily use.
Thanks for watching hawk!
Well this just made me feel overwhelmed and anxious....
Just go step by step! After you do it once you’ll know how to tune any printer which is a handy skill to have!
That CD/Cassette boombox though ;)
And a record player 😉
Exactly what I was searching for. Thanks a lot sir!! Real life hero!
You are one cool dude my dude thanks for the tips, I'll be ordering one😁
😎
What software are you using for the steps and pid commands?
Dang! None of this I have ever seen online for tuning any FDM printer. Been struggling with my Neptune 3 on getting adhesion and proper layers placed since I got it! Thanks for the information, gonna go do this now.
Perfect! Glad i could help!
Sooo nice! Thanks for sharing!!
I definitely have to do this
Ill be honest. This helped a lot. I would recommend adding recommended tools as well as connecting printer to the program.
Wow 😮amazing info! Huge thanks
Thanks for watching Ivan!!
Got a question. So I'm a little lost of the extruder steps. This is my current value echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E380.00, and when I did the 100mm, I had 13mm left. So is it (100x380)/87=436? So I'd store 436? Just tried it with 436 and YUP.. Thanks, great video!
Thank you for the video!
One problem I ran into: after sending the M303 E0 S205 C10 command, the console threw this error:
echo: Heating Failed
Error: Printer halted. kill() called!
Any idea what should I do in order to run the auto tuning?
Found out you have to update the firmware for it to work as shown!
As Aaron said, update to the newest firmware!
Am i just stupid?? How do i know my current steps per mm??
It's under motor settings
On some printers you can find that in the settings directly. Otherwise you use a tool like Pronterface and send the command M501 to you printer. The printer then responds with several lines of info. Look for the line beginning with M92 and use the number after "E".
You wont find it on some printers. Pronterface will tell you though.
It’s found on the M92 settings with the E value when you use M503
Great suggestion, Thanks a lot
Hope they help!
Holy bananas. I’m curious about the program you used, pronterface? Do you have any tutorials for the oblivious (me 😂) to this? I have a 2 brand new Neptune 3’s. One works great. The other not so much but I’m not very proficient in the whole tuning thing. Thanks for this video it’s awesome and so helpful
Pronter face is pretty simple! Just find out what com port (usb port) your printer is hooked up to and hit connect!
Very cool video! Do these tuning methods also work for the Neptune 2s or is this specifically for the Neptune 3 pro? Thanks in advance!
Should work for most printers! Older neptunes, creality machines, prusas! Thanks for watching
the dislikes are from people that have bought a anycubic kobra.
great video!
Is that all what you tune? What‘s about the accuracy? Wall thickness? Adjusting with flow and so on… thanks in advance
Hello!
Don't know if you had the same problem with Elegoo N3Pro: offset toolhead centering. As you tap "Level" on the menu screen, the toolhead automatically goes a little to the right, and starts autolevelling also off-centered.
Contacting Elegoo support didnt actually help. If you have any idea, I'd be more than happy to learn from you.
Many thanks for the vid!
This is intentional, the part used to check the bed is placed to the left
I'll have to give this a few more views when trying to fix my Neptune 3 😅🤣 Got it set up today, with the white filament they include. Tried printing the Buddha - and RED stringing came out?! When I gave it WHITE filament?! Now I have a nozzle covered in white goo and lost patience 🤪
For belt tension you should really use a guitar tuner to match the expected frequency for the belt length fully extended based on the belt spec.
Interesting idea! I’ve used deflection in the past to measure but I just go by feel now
@@WildRoseBuilds I'll try to give you the link to the method I use but TH-cam often deletes comments with links.
Adjusting belt tension to this degree is totally unnecessary. All you need to do is make it snug.
@@pcdc1337 So many people get "make it snug" wrong, often on the side of too tight resulting in ruined motor shaft bearings.
@@daliasprints9798 you can send to me if possible... Really 😊
Hi. Have just set the same PrusaSlicer settings as you have, and i got my Neptune 3 PRO yesterday. But what about retraction settings? just use the standard creality v2 settings ? 5mm and 60 in speed ? ive heard that direct drive extruders need less retraction at lower speed. Did you just use the standard creality settings as shown in this video ? Thanks for all the information btw. I love your videos! 🤩
Great video, doing this tomorrow! How do you know you have a good first layer/correct z offset?
You can slide a piece of paper under the nozzle and if there’s friction that’s a good place to start!
Great video. I have a question on calibrating Cura times with actual print times on the Neptune 3. My actual print times are quite a bit higher than Elegoo's Cura version. How do I get Cura's time to be more accurate? Thanks!
I think this has been a common problem for a while in cura, i'm not sure there is a workaround. Prusa Slicer has pretty accurate print time predictions. I would highly recommend making the switch!
@@WildRoseBuilds Thanks. I will take a look at it.
epic vid! thank u bro!
Greatly appreciated the video! I received a used Neptune 3 Pro and while attempting to get it adjusted I ran into an issue, the left side of the z-axis lead screw on the gantry frame (If you are looking at the front of the printer) is not moving at all. Is there a way to tighten or loosen a z-axis lead screw?
Welp, im gonna have to figure this out. Didnt even think about doing this first
I put in a order for the 3 Pro. But I wanna print with the CHT nozzle. What upgrades would you recommend? and what version of the CHT nozzle is best value and most reliable(durable)?
I’ve never used the cht nozzles! I’d just order a few of the cheap ones off Ali express and source some high heat thermal paste. Looks like the only difference in the cheap Chinese cht nozzles is the depth of the chamfer on the inlet, maybe grab a nice countersink bit and ream them out a little. As for mods I’m not sure you’d need any? Can always grab a few extra pei build plates tho!
Hey did you use the M500 command to save the settings afterwards so it wouldn't reset when the power is off?
Yep! I m500 and m501 to check that it’s saved to the EEPROM after each calibration step
Sorry back again. How exactly do you find your current steps? Do you just send a M501 command then look at the number next to the 'E' on line M92?
Because if so, then for me that number is currently 380 which seems excessive when comparing it to this video and your esteps which is 135.
And just for clarification, in order to find the amount extruded, after measuring and marking 100mm of filament and telling the machine to extrude 100mm of filament, you subtract the amount that's left from where you marked from 100 and that's the amount actually extruded, right?
My problem is, since the machine says my current steps per mm is 380, my equation is (100 x 380) / 87.5 = 434.29, the reason I question it is because I noticed your Steps per mm in the screenshot in the video is 135, which is a far cry off from the numbers I'm getting, is this normal?
One last question, should I be rounding or is using decimals ok?
Yes! That’s correct, M501 will list the current steps for all axis and E is the extruder. Since I was under extruding I had remaining filament not extruded so I subtracted that amount from 100. Some extruders use gear ratios. If you have a titan style extruder than around 400 steps is common. I might have used some screen cap from the Neptune 3 non pro which has no gearing so it’s a lower step per mm.
420+ seems high, try heating up your extruder higher than you would normally for pla and feed the 100mm at a very very low speed. This will ensure that there’s no steps lost due to the hotend not being to melt the filament fast enough.
I hope that helps!
Did this work out for you? I’m currently in the same situation and I’m looking at a new value of 417.58.
I tried it twice and the M500 command does not seem to be saving the new values when I bring it back up with M501
@@armstrongthegod761 I have a new value of M92 E435 and now it fits perfectly 100mm. My default value was 390.
@@armstrongthegod761 Use M92 Eyour_value without brackets (was my fault as well)!
Would this also work for the Elegoo Neptune 3 (non-pro)?
Did elegoo share with you the price for this machine?
They didn’t! I’d guess high 200s
do you use a different software to design or the program it comes with?
I use mostly fusion 360 to design and prusa slicer to generate gcode!
Hello ! would you recomend this rather than a standard ender 3 s1?
Up to you! I’ve only just started using the s1 so I’m unsure of the differences other than the use of an abl sensor vs the inductive sensor on the Neptune 3 pro
Any tips on tuning your Timelapse camera so you don’t have a fuzzy flickering look? (Assuming something with focus settings but not sure)
0:33 eccentric nuts, not concentric! in other words, they are intentionally off-centered, so adjusting them in a circle will increase/decrease the lateral (sideways) tension. :)
Ah yes! Thankyou for this!! :)
Can you next time give full example of your findings, it is good that you give the formular but having real number based on your video is a plus.
I wanted to avoid that to dissuade people from using values specific to my machine. A good rule of thumb is that the values shouldn’t waver too much from the original as we are just fine tuning here. Thanks for watching
Just got this and should all 3 V wheels on the z axis be touching the frame? The middle centric wheel and the top are solid, but the bottom most one is really loose (on both side)
I haven't seen a video of someone explaining and recommending setting in prusa 2.6 for elegoo. Maybe an idea for a video, I think you could explain it really well😁
Any chance you could explain the basics of this? That is the software etc ? I don’t quite understand it
IMPORTANT. I have tried to change the pei bed with GLASS. Imposible, because the zero sistem of the machine. Any workflow to get it?
If you’re just looking for a smooth surface on the bottom of your parts you can get non textured pei coated steel that would have that effect. You could swap the sensor for a probe but I think you’d be in for some hefty firmware edits
@@WildRoseBuilds thanks
I have the Ender 3 pro. I got into 3d printing very recently. I’m one of those oblivious people. I have so many questions. But I’ll try to learn from this video as i go. My obvious question is will this tuning work for my E3 P? I tried leveling the pad. If i had hair i would have pulled it all out. I tried following people’s paper process. That’s a nightmare because when you do the back the don’t get off and Vice verse. It’s made me put my printer on a shelf and forget about it. I need help! Don’t know which way to turn.
I know this is a couple months old, but are you talking about leveling your bed? If so, the first time could take a little while to get it right. Just start at one corner, what you're looking for is for the paper to have slight drag on it. When you go around and do the other three, you'll notice once you get back to the first one you did, the paper will probably not slide under it. That's when you do it again, it will all "level" out after a few times. Once the four corners are done, move the extruder to the center of the bed and check clearance, adjust from the four corners just a hair to get it where it needs to be. This will get you up and printing on your Ender 3 Pro. It's a great machine to start with, and once you're going on it, it begs to be upgraded. Hope this helps.
Why is the steps per millimeter necessary? Doesn't the printer just pull the filament as needed?
HELP!! having major issues adhearing to the bed aftere doing this, I have a neptune 3 max. No matter what I do nothing is working, deep clean bed, ness with temp, level and auto level, put code in cura to auto level before prints. But no matter what I do nothings sticks and if it does it is inconsistent throughout the bed. PLEASE HELP!
Do not loosen so you can move the wheels. That causes slips. And wobble. Bit don't over tighten. Ik this is a year old but still
I need help with the formula part when extruding, I can’t really see what your imputing to represent mine, could you tell me what you did and what you imputed. I want 100mm but 9.5 is left and so I multiplied it, but when I divide what did get extruded and the x, it gives my 10.5(rounded). Can you help me
How can we do what you described in Ubuntu? What is the default step of E axis stepper motor for neptune 3 pro. Thanks.
Can the extruder be calibrate withing the printer?
Yes there is an e step setting within the advanced menu, I think they’ve called it e pulse in this ui
Brilliant video
2:52 M92, M500, M501, this is all done in something called Pronterface? I'm not familiar with this.
It’s just a software that connects over usb to your machine and gives you a console to both send and receive info from your printer. I think it’s also installed when installing prusa slicer!
Everytime i try to set my new steps per mm with m92 it wont send please help been stuck on this for hours. I specifically typed in "M92 E420"
I think more depth of calculating e-steps would make the video much better. You don't say how to find the current e-steps. When I run M501 before updating my e-steps, the steps per unit value is blank. So how to I know my current steps to complete the formula so I can update it with the M92 command?
This is one of the biggest problems with TH-cam videos.
The video is good, I really appreciate it. But it can be seen that either the creator made it for those who already know the minimum of the programs and terminology used, or it is just an excuse to carry out paid advertising.
I have the same doubts as you.
small question sir! my printer head isnt at the center of the bed when it starts prints, its aroud 3 inches diagonally off center, any tips?
can someone help me out? I am not understanding the math problem. I have the Neptune 3 Pro and the E value says 380.
i told my N3P to load 100mm and it only extruded 92 so what is the exact command i type into pronterface?
then i ran the PID autotune and got values P27.21 I3.01 D61.51 but when i type that with M301 it says "SENDING:M301 P27.21 I3.01 D61.51" and doesnt change
do i need to wait longer or type a different command?
after uploading the new pid values, type M500 to save, and M501 to refresh your printers saved settings where it should be updated.
your new e steps should be 413 according to your results.
thanks for watching
Maybe late for you but helpful for others. His example is pretty confusing because he doesn't show the actual message you need to type. So you get the current E-value (from typing M501) which might be 380, multiply that with the 100/YourValue (which was 92) to get 413, the actual message you type will be M92 E413, no parenthesis or anything.
Help!! What software do I download to be able to send this single-line commands to my printer?? Idk how to do that part
Prontrface!!
I tried tonight, and it gets stuck on ‘connecting’. I’ve tried all baudrates, I even installed a CH340 driver as someone else suggested. It stays on ‘connecting’. It’s 100% the correct port, no other apps are running & no other USBs are plugged in. I’m stumped! It’s over-extruding by exactly 5mm and I can’t fix it 😭💔
Try a different usb port, and also try a different cable.
Thank you for a great tutorial, when I use m301 command to set new values , I get a message SENDING and it’s not changing to anything else without setting new values , what’s my issue ?
Thank you again
my elegoo neptune 3 pro y axis motor is running hot. Can you tell me what the vref should be. Thanks
I have a problem with lines , the walls are not smooth, everything is tighten and like it should be, but there are mini lines you can see if you look from the top. any suggestion?
Forgive me if I sound dumb here. My default "E" value is 380. It only extruded 85.31mm. So with that formula my new "E" would be 445.5?
Thanks!
Update: I just went for it and re-tested. Ended up being at 465. Thanks!! Now to tune my ender 3 max neo :)
Oddly enough my E steps were at 380. I plugged in the equation and got 514. Which seemed extreme, but after trials and error before the formula it was perfect
Thanks! Would this also apply to the neptune 3 plus?
Yep!
Which slicer do you recommend with the Neptune?
The beta prusa slicer 2.6 has baked in Neptune 3 pro profiles that I’ve had great success with!
Is there a way for you to make your Prusa profile available on Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro?
Prusa has one built in for the Neptune 3 pro when you setup a machine through the configuration wizard! That’s the one I use!
I tried the PID tuning and my N3pro started beeping with the message of a thermal runaway ☹️
I can't get this printer to budge once the leveling starts,. It stays in the down position and never does anything after that. Any ideas?
I just sent the code on printerface to check the temp and it gave me a thermal runaway error. Any suggestions? What should I do about it? I had to turn the printer off completely
Update the firmware on the machine, some of the launch machines have firmware that has pid autotune disabled!
0:42 I'm confused I thought the wheels were supposed to be tight against the gantry so the wheels didnt rotate slightly. Can someone help me understand that? Maybe that's why prints are coming out they way they are.
If my printer does not print fine details like lines of a lineal what could be the issue for that? 🤔
Would this process work for my neptune 3 max?
Does this works on Plus?
Will this work with the Neptune 3 as well
Yep this’ll work for the standard Neptune 3 too. Just need a way to send gcode commands to the machine. The e step calibration can be found on the machine itself in the advanced menu but pid autotune commands need to be sent over usb I believe. There are a handful of gcode senders but I find pronter face to be the easiest!
@@WildRoseBuilds thank you :) I worked it out
How do we get the firmware to be able to get to higher than the stock 260 nozzle temperature? I've updated the firmware and its still not working
So ive been using Lychee for over a year now, and i had my Neptune3pro dialed in perfectly. But then my exports kept crashing suddenly in Lychee so i swapped to Cura and tried to put the settings i had from Lychee and ran a Benchy, ans now the arm just jams itself in a corner and dumps plastic. Any suggestions?
make sure you have the correct machine settings in cura, and the correct start and stop gcode. sounds like your bed size in your slicer is set wrong?
how are you supposed to find your current steps/mm?
you can send an M501 command to echo all the settings saved on your printer if youre connected over usb or you can look in the advanced menu on the neptune 3
just a heads up for those doing the extruder calibration please use the M501 command first to get the extruder steps as I overlooked it and messed up but luckily I wrote it down, mine started with 380mm Neptune 3 Pro
So I am so glad you said this but after inputting M501 I spits out a wall of text what exactly am I looking for?
and do I need Pronterface in order to do these, it looks confusing to me
My Neptune 3 Pro went into thermal runaway after the PID autotune completed, it showed the final values and all in Pronterface, but the 3D printer had a warning and audible alert going on screen. Any ideas why this happened? Yes, I'm on latest non-beta firmware by the way.
Same, was worried i broke something >.
Also got the same. Did you find any answer?
@luizsergiojunior2000 no answer but I also haven't had issues anyway so I forgot it even happened 😅
I have a neptune 3 plus am trying to tune the bed ..I did the hot end but don't know proper command for the bed.
If I might ask, once you send the command for setting the new PID values, how do you get them to stick? I've run the test and received the suggested values, but upon entering in the M301 command and listing the new parameters, it just shows "Sending" and then nothing else. When I use the M501 to check and see if the new settings stuck....I get the same old values. I must be missing something here. Any suggestions?
After m301, enter M500 to save
@@kolyan2g Thank you so mucu man. Stupid thing that I was missing
The Z axis on my new pro 3 won’t move. I’ve tried a bunch of things and it is stuck.
Is a computer the only way to tune PID?
When is it coming out? Also, this is very helpful for beginners like me. 😊
It should be on their site now! Thanks for watching!
Thank you and No problem