Some people miss the opportunity presented when doing the rotation yourself to see the condition of the tires and the condition of the brakes, axle boots and suspension components. A couple minutes at each corner of the car is well spent even if you don't find any issues. The best tools you have are your mark 1 eyeballs.
Uh yes, Mr Subaru is basically one of these rocket engineers misplaced in the Carolinas. The dude could be rich living in Colorado as folk would come for his blessing. He is as legit as they come, just a caring dude that loves mechanical things and helping folks out. I think he loves to just stare at Subaru motors operating, I know I do.
From my experience the OE tires on my Subarus have been garbage. The only real positive is that they are quiet. Other than that, they don't brake or handle well, and don't last very long. But they probably get them at a large discount and riding soft makes people more likely to buy the car when new.
Fully explained why I can't replace just one tire or even a pair in a "yep, that makes sense" way. Offered solution to the expense of having to buy 4 new tires when only one is damaged. Offered pro tip of Hub Buddy, common sense, affordable, convenient way to prepare wheel/brake mating surface. Way cool beard I would never be able to grow😉. Video value 4 out of 4! Thanks for the info!
Your 2013 Crosstrek is cleaner underneath than my 2017 Impreza. Gotta love Maine! Also, for those of us in the salt belt: I put anti-sieze between the hub & brake disc and the disc & wheel. This helps to keep that corrosion to a minimum. This makes it much easier to get those off after the winter season.
This is exactly what Auto Expert John Cadogan (automotive Engineer) recommends and applying a light coat of anti-seize to the wheel threads and only torquing to 70% of the recommend torque to allow you to change a tire on a dark busy highway day or night without a powered (air/elec) torque gun.
You don't use under coating? If you already have rust and don't want to clean it up and and coat it, get some "sheep fat oil" thing, and when the car has been dry for 2-3 days coat the whole car thickly and with it, can also get a spray for those difficult parts and double coat. It glues rust together and slows it down alot and protects against salt and futher rust damages. It's a cheap option if you don't want to go the more expensive route
I have over 54 thousand miles on my Michelin Defender tires and they still have good tread on them. I rotate them every 7000 miles. Best tires I ever had!
Couple of quick points. The video shows the proper star pattern to tighten the wheels, you just forgot to mention it. Also, up north, if you have 5 32nds or below you will have poor snow traction. Tire stores would sell way less tires if people actually did the maintenance you demonstrated. Great video.
Hi from Australia, I have a 2018 Forester XT Premium with the luxury of having a full size spare. When the vehicle was new, I changed the factory fitted tyres to Yokohama Geolandar AT's. As with my previous 2013 Forester XT, I rotate the tyres with each 12,500 service. Rotate using the FIVE tyres and have wheel balancing and front and rear alignment done at the same time. I'm currently on my second set of Geolandar AT's for my current Forester (3 sets on the previous model) and have been getting around 120,000 kilometres from a set of 5 tyres. It pays to look after your tyres AND to have tyres that suit the driving you do. BTW, great channel. Cheers 🍻
I had a nail puncture the sidewall of one of my tires on my Forester a few months ago, and I had to replace all 4 tires. The tire shop took care of me, and I basically got the tires for half price since the were generous on the trade in value of the 3 good tires.
I must live a charmed life. Am from Canada and several years ago on Hilton Head SC. I ruined a tire ( winter tire of course). Drove around several days on the temporary, first on the front ,then on the rear after reading that in the Owners manual. Of course they had to order in the new winter tire ( Hankook) . Had no trouble after that, even though the new one would have been slightly larger. Think I did that next winter too.
Using mismatched tires has damaged the center differential on my '10 OB 6-MT at only 99k miles due to overheating the silicon fill which causes popping/stuttering on sharp turns when the drivetrain is warmed up. The previous owner appears to have driven for an excessive period with either a mismatched set or using the donut spare that caused a continual difference in front to rear axle speeds and subsequent unnecessary heating due to the clutch plates churning and overheating the silicon. Matched set of tires are a must.
@@mikeoxlong3676 Yeah, true. I found the other sketchy stuff before I bought it but didn't drive it enough to warm the drivetrain to catch that one. LOL! Well, $400 for the part and 4 to 6 hours to replace it - still not bad. I got it for a great price.
@@Mewzyc I'm not sure. It was a one-owner when I bought it with 97k miles. The tires were a matched set with similar tread depth then but in the 11 years that the original owner had it, who knows what happened. It may have been towed incorrectly - that will damage the center diff as well.
@@bujin5455 I would agree in certain usages of viscous couplings and I have likewise used them in industry. In the Subaru center differential, the silicon fill is less than 100 grams - 50 to 60 if I remember correctly. Constant churning by the clutch plates and the force imposed by several horsepower over an extended period of time without cooling of the fluid other than airflow beneath the vehicle results in a change in the properties of the silicon - the fill turns black and tar-like and changes the temperature characteristics of the material and causes binding similar to a 4-wheel drive vehicle without a center differential. The material, once overheated, cannot return to its original specifications. When cool and less that 20 deg C the damaged fluid does not cause binding. Once the damaged fluid reaches more than 25 to 30 deg C during normal driving, the tar--like state of the heat damaged silicon causes binding and increased heating during operation and exacerbates the problem until cooled down. It is notable that these units aren't readily serviceable (ie, drain/flush/clean/refill) and must be replaced. The center differentials for CVT vehicles are much different - I refer to only manual transmission Subaru vehicles.
Thank you for all the helpful information on car maintenance. Personally I’m an enthusiast so I know a good bit about my Subaru, but most of the population is driving around a car with no idea how it works. The repair shops in my area are always slammed with older cars being fixed because of the lack of new cars on the market. Having the ability to do basic maintenance like this will help people a lot.
When you buy tires next time check out the Michelin Climate 2. It out performs all tires out there and it has a snow peak which is rated as a snow tire but don't have to remove it in the summer and it is quiet. It has excellent rating in snow and very good to excellent handling, Braking, Hydroplaning, cornering.
This is a pretty bold statement considering you can get some really good tires for a subaru esp outback or Forrester because the tires available are the same as light trucks/suv tires, which is really awesome.
Response from the other half of the planet 🌍 An Israeli car guy\electrition following the channel. Thow I'm aware of most issues mentioned in this clip, i still find it very much useful for refresh or guide other car owners, not just for Subaru fan\owner. In my case I now own a 2002 Impreza sportwagon 1.6 manual, bit powerless but very fun for me. 191000 km on the odometer Bought in 2008 as a replacement for my earlier 1994 first Impreza 4 dr also 1.6 manual that was totaled after 10 years & almost 280000 km, which was very sadly for me 🥲
Excellent tire tips for the DiYer🤣 One important detail is after removing the corrosion from the hub and rim faces, smear light coating of antiseize paste to those cleaned surfaces. Really important in states with winter weather!!. Great channel 👍👍🥶🌨️❄️☕
A nail or minor puncture (on the tires tread) is usually not a tire killer. If the tire is repairable, A proper plug repair should last the remaining life of the tire and spare you from the cost of a replacement.
Thanks, now I need a hub buddy all of a sudden! Ordered and received in a day! My son got a blow out in his RR snow tire with his winter wheels last month. Had him put on the spare and install the FWD fuse (2001 Forester 4EAT) I recently put on the Snows and made sure he had air in the spare before going back to college. He came home and I had to put the All season wheels back on until I was able to replace all the snows. It's an old car with 220K miles but still runs well, I didn't want to chance messing up the drive-train. Snows back on last week just in time for winter weather in Nebraska.
@@aarshmathur2909 I'm not an expert but I don't know why studs would make a difference. My concern with studs is they are really only good on packed snow and ice. On regular tarmac you'd have worse traction than non studded. If you only drove on dirt and packed snow and Ice you'd be fine but on the regular roads I think tire rubber tec has some decent rubber even when it gets icy. I carry a set of Low Clearance Z cables when it gets really bad. I have winter wheels with dedicated snows but not studded.
One option is to buy a used tire with the same tread depth. Just had to do this with our Honda Accord on a busted tire. Bought the replacement tire on Ebay for about 1/2 the price of new with only about 2/32 of wear on the tire.
Yes, Love the LL Bean example at the end. Mr Subaru isn't shy about being an example of what we all do even though we "know" better. He has the skill and patience to show what should be and the wisdom to know that it can't always be. Not like someone who will not be named, who's been doing this for 52 years who likes to humble-brag.
Minor point to give you a tip, Before installing your rims you can put a thin coat of fluid film on both rim and brake drum the this will keep the electrolysis between the two metals down to a minimum And make removing the rim a whole lot easier next season after the winter.
@@markevans506 Fluid film is a special oil that has protection properties from rust with a bit of unusual form that doesn't evaporate. It's like sprayable grease, allowing parts to ease apart when dismantling. When used properly - protection against rust and corrosion and from reaction of two different metals like steel and aluminum which electrolysis seems to occur.
I have a 2014 Outback. My low tire pressure light is on. I checked the pressures and they were all around 40psi from the dealer (max 51 w these tires) I reduced them all to the spec on the door jam and the light is still on. I love your videos as they have helped me understand the car I love.
You probably need to reset your TPMS monitor or "read" your tires' new pressure into the vehicle's computer. This procedure should be spelled out in the owner's manual; if you don't have it you should be able to find it online. The procedure can vary widely based on the year/make/model of your car. Our 2019 Honda Odyssey automatically updates the tire pressures into the TPMS monitor when you add air to the tires. But most newer Audis do not; you have to manually tell them to store the updated pressure through the MMI.
When I rotate the tires on my 2017 Impreza and Outback, I just do front to back and back to front. I asked the local dealership how they did it and thats what they told me.
Sorry if mentioned in other comments...if you run long enough and fast enough on a wheel with a warped rotor, at least in the front, your tire will start to run with a toe like issue. Excessive toe in or out will trash a tire the quickest since you are basically dragging the tire. cocked. Appreciate the video for the Subaru community for a good DIY for owners. Shops are about time/money (generally), and techs aren't getting paid more for free visual inspections.
If you have alloy wheels, be sure the recheck the torque after driving the vehicle a certain number of mile. I've heard different recommendations but I usually do it at 500 miles. I find it pretty rare that the lugs will be loose but it's not never.
Yes sir I do the same thing I do it within about 100 miles though and then every so often I’ll come back and check them and one or two are somewhat off not too bad
I reward myself after a tire change with a trick to DQ, and retorque upon my return. Wrench goes in the car with me for the next week, retorquing after my first highway trip to work, then a week later.
I keep an older torque wrench with a socket on it in the car, dedicated just for the wheels on our Subies. I use it often, just 'cause I can. Good excuse to get a good electronic one for the shop.
Lol, nice video as usual, I always carry goop, plugs, and a compressor, so it's ok if the spare goes flat. I do take it out from time to time and wipe it, plus treat it with preservative. Fun stuff.
Most important thing about tires on a Subaru is to use a better tire when the first set wears down. Factory tires suck in snow. Get something just a little more aggressive or you will be disappointed.
Buy an extra wheel and 5 non directional tires, rotate it in, you will have a full size spare and can avoid buying 4 new tires if something happens to 1
Rotate and balanced every 6000 by the dealer and my 13 sti loves to eat the inside tread. Everything is in dealer specifications like alignment and suspension. My 99$ cheap tires seem to last longer than the 270$ tires I have used twice in the past. I’m on my fourth set of tires since it was new and now I have 92000 and yes it is stil a fun car to have.
Sounds like an alignment issue. Sometimes the specs are wrong in the machine, it's out of calibration, or someone untrained is doing said alignment. Might check the alignment somewhere else to be sure.
i always put some antirust between wheel and disk and hub so they don't wind up stuck on there even in the south i knew people who drove their 4 wheel drive vehicles on beach and the salt water welded the wheel to the brake disk and hub
My 03 out back is having a power steering issue. Cold start it is hard to turn. It will turn once the car moves, It chirps like you are turning it against the lock. Belt is tight fluid is full. Doesn't make noise. Once it warms up it steers normally. I do have the suction line orings on order.
My 2020 outback came with Yokohama avid gt tires, at 16000 miles the tread was worn off to the cords on the inside only, this was brought to my attention during a pa state inspection. Told them to align it as I was at a Subaru dealership. It was in perfect alignment. I have since seen this on other outbacks and called Subaru safety department who took my complaint and issued me a 500 dollar credit. My 2014 outback never had this problem and at 90,000 miles has never been aligned.
@@pulda015 I am a trucker with approx 2.5 million miles under my belt. Why would I pay for a unnecessary alignment when I know how to inspect my tires and they are wearing perfectly? The car is inspected in pa yearly and my son-in-law owns his own shop. No problems here. You need to keep to the bus.
Would rubbing the wheel contact points on the hub down with anti-seize protect the aluminum to steel contact area from corrosion? Thanks for your thorough video.
Great video! Nice touch checking the spare! I do that every time I head out of town. I’ll get plenty of hate for this but I buy used tires from Ebay. There are some seemingly reputable companies on there that sell used tires in varying tread depths. What this allows me to do is to match a replacement tire with the same amount of remaining tread as the tires on the car. I also use it to correct mismatched sets of tires on cars I’ve purchased. I’ve probably bought 15 or more tires this way and never had an issue. Maybe something to consider but beware of age and if they have been repaired where that repair was done. I have seen some that have sidewalk repairs which personally I would not recommend for safety.
In addition to the wear of tires, you can look up what the tire band n tyoe and specifically the size of the tire (this is very important as tread depth will vary based on tire size, even if its the exact same tire brand/type). Anyway rhis info is helpful as the manufacturer will list the optimal time to replace and you can know what the tread depth was at the start to know what % you have used to what % you have left, which will give you a great idea of how much time you have left with those tires if you have a similar driving patterns and mileage per month.
Generally they arent the same tire. If previously not 5 wheel rotated then theyre likely dissimilar in tread. If not the case then look up graphic for 5 tire rotation
I'd just do it more often and add the spare into the rotation every time. Move every tyre clockwise or counter-clockwise and put the one moving across the rear into the spare location.
@@torkrench YesgGenerally, however his statement makes it sound like he may have ordered a new Forester (perhaps the Wilderness) that comes with a 5th full size wheel/tire of the same kind. The Subaru Outback Wilderness also comes with 5 identical wheel/tires.
Hmmm…. If I get a nail in my tire I’m going to the Mexican tire shop to give the man TEN BUCKS to take the tire off the rim insert a plug from the inside, rebalance the tire and GO ABOUT MY DAY. Just Sayin
Outback bought new 2 years ago. At 3200 miles, nail in a sidewall. My dealer near where tire low and they had a matching tire in stock and had me going quickly.
I had my tires rotated like this on another car and the car pulled to the right after that. When the tires were re-rotated front to back (put back on the original sides) the pulling went away. I think the tires had taken a set to rotate that one way and turning them around caused them to fight the new direction.
This is because you went to long without rotating the tires. They can't moved after that. Only option is to run them as is until thier early demise. Then remember to rotate you next set of tires.
Got a 5th rim for my 2002 forester so i can put spare 5th tire on every rotation and rest one in the spare tire compartment. This way in the case i ever get a flat my spare tire is worn with all the others and i get a little more life out of all my tires.
i have a 2015 Croosttek and on my 2nd set of tires, life was pretty busy and I neglected rotating the tires during the 2nd half of the tires' life (after 30k). my justification is that it's a AWD so the wear and tear should be pretty close to all 4 tires. boy was I wrong. when I was planning for a road trip, I checked all 4 tires and was shocked to see the front end ones wear a lot faster. the rear was still showing good amount of thread. I think the engine and driver weight has a factor on why the front tires wear faster. so yeah, got new set of tires after that. tried buying only 2 from discount tire. I typed in my vehicle but they do have a warning about AWD and that I should but a whole set instead. so I did and I definitely learned my lesson as far as rotating the tires.
Great, informative video. I've accidentally damaged one of the winter tyres on the same H6 outback as yours. Since I've only driven with the set a max of 3k kms of light driving, I decided to buy only 2. We'll see how it goes :)
Just a quick note. I live in a snow/salt belt and I've learned that backing off the wheel nuts a turn or so and then driving the vehicle a few feet will break the grip of a wheel that's seized on the hub. I always do this before removing the wheel.
@@slalomking I used to do that before I discovered this method. But now that I'm 75 I need to keep things as easy as possible! And I'll confess that since I got my Outback Wilderness, I leave those more aggressive tires on year round. They're not as good as snow tires, but they're winter rated and good enough for the amount of winter driving I do now.
MrSubaru, I'm thinking of getting Subaru and have been trying to get familiar with them through your videos. Love the content! This video is good general information about tires, and some good AWD specifics too. I would have liked to see your guidance on how to treat the car when you have to drive using that mismatched/oddball sized spare tire. That would be very useful.
In addition to Shawn's question of how to drive with the spare, how many miles is considered safe to drive with the mismatched tire before you need to correct it? If I am on a trip and have to use the spare, depending on my location and if places are open (Sunday/holidays), I could need to put 400-500 miles on that configuration. Thanks for your response.
I am new to Subaru, just purchased a Crosstrek LTD last November. I live I. Iowa winters are brutal, car was amazing in the snow. I drive conservatively due to price of fuel, stay at 60 on the interstate. I commute 50 mls per day. I am getting an average of 31 to a high of 37 mpg!!
Interesting question that didn't get answered. My 2002 Forester has a regular size spare and I rotate it in with the other tires to keep all close to the same size because Subaru makes a big deal about all tires needing to be the same size to prevent damage. Amazed they put a doughnut spare in newer cars. Wonder how far you can go on that before damaging the center differential.
Greeting from Malaysia..yes I would like to know too....how long did Subaru advocate to drive with mismatch spare tire before damaging the center differentials. Thanks
Had a screw in the tyre on our Outback with less than 1k on the clock, screw was in a position it could not be repaired as it was too close to the sidewall. Replaced with a new exact same make/model of tyre which proved difficult to obtain as they were discontinued but did manage to get a new one.
Bought a 2017 Crosstrek December 2020 and last week during routine service the dealership noticed I had Yokohama Goodlandar G95 on front axle and G91 on the rear. Four years and 18,000 miles later? They wanted to sell me TWO new tires. Replaced all for a couple of days later.
I would like a video on how to reset the tire locations after doing a tire rotation. Newer Subaru's show the tire location. All the owners manual say is take it to the dealer to have the location reset.
I’ve always felt comfortable replacing just 2 tires on my Subarus, putting the new ones in the front. I’ve never had any problems. I’ve never had problems but won’t do it when the car is under warranty still. I drive my Subarus till the shit out and it’s the engine that goes first.
Were I live here in Canada, I have both a summer and winter tire sets. My nephew does my seasonal swaps, and check things you mention as well as the brakes. And if I haven't had a recent oil change, he will do that at the same time.
Although we don't get a lot of snow here 40 miles north of Atlanta, we get whacked once or twice a year. My driveway goes downhill from the house to the road, 100 feet. The slope is about 30 degrees. A couple of times I've strapped on tire cables to get my 2001 Forester down the steep driveway. Hope I'm not breaking anything. I never go more than a mile or two before taking the cables off. It's a rough ride lol
I had a non-reparable flat on my 2023 Crosstrek. The service department at the dealership told me that since I had 2/32 to 3/32 wear it would not be necessary to replace all four. I had bought tire protection when I bought the car so I got away for no charge.
Hi, thank you for your excellent videos. I'm searching through your videos trying to find out why my 2014 Subaru Impreza wagon sport limited 2.0 has needed 5 alignments. I'm the original owner, it's just rolled over to 50,000 miles. I had nails in tires, purchased 3 sets of new tires since I owned my car. So frustrating.
MrSubaru, I've only recently discovered all of your content here and simply enjoy your thorough explanation of everything among the topic of each video. I wanted to comment here just to inform you, in case you weren't aware. I noticed that when lifting the front of the car at 2:57, since the floorjack is unable to easily roll on the terrain you're working on, the pad was slipping on the crossmember. Maybe it was still supporting enough of the crossmember but from the camera's perspective, the car looked awfully close to slipping off the jack. Stay safe out there!
Tyre pressure between front and rear wheels is also important. Your Tyre pressures between front and rear needs to be adjusted depending on whether you are fully loaded up or not. Example: If you are going on a long trip and carrying a full load of passengers and luggage then the pressure between front and rear tyres are quite different. If you don't check this you will damage your centre differential even if your tyres pattern and wear is all identical.
Any credence to some old advice I heard to run your tires slightly over the sticker rating (by 2-3 psi) to account for cold weather for us Northerners and to prevent inadvertent TPMS light activation?
I generally bump a bit especially in the front tires to help balance the edge wear that comes with more backroad/little highway driving. Also yeah you have to account for temp changes
So much excellent information in this. I need to rotate my tires and I also suspect I have a wheel bearing going out in the front... just hit 110,000 miles on an only 01 forester. Going solid but really needs the timing chain serviced and the front bearings replaced.
This goes for any vehicle with all-wheel drive or automatic four wheel drive. Sad thing is most people don't know that the tires need to be within 3 32s. Even yes some mechanics don't even know this or simply don't care to tell you, in hopes to get more expensive services from you down the road.
I never drive on dry rot tires its common knowledge to change all 4 tires another option buy all 4 if lot tread on the tires you can trade them in in at most tire stores
I been watching your channel for sometime now I have a 2021 Subaru outback Premium With a dummy tire My question is how harmful do you think using a tire plugger kit Before tire goes flat Overusing a dummy And would I still need to replace that tire immediately.
Im partial to Cooper Enduromax. 4 SEASON- Not ALLseason. Winter 3 peak certified. Excellent milage and traction, temp and wear ratings. Nominal price and IMO, doubles the ride quaily consistantly year round.
Thank you for this very informative video, I shudder to think how much it'll cost me if one goes wrong and when I have to replace all 4 tyres! 🤦♂️ About $780 dollars 😱
Are the AWD systems for the newer CVT's more tolerant of differences in circumference? I know with the older automatics there is a FWD fuse to install when you need to use your spare, moved to the rear. I have a 2019 Impreza and the owners manual says to move the spare to the rear but nothing about installing a fuse now. Are they just banking on you not driving far enough to damage the drivetrain. I carry a compressor and some plugs to use in a pinch, I'd rather avoid the situation altogether if possible but with a blowout that's not an option.
I was watching gears and gasoline and Ben mention this AWD system and tyre problem with Subaru so I came here to find out more .......question though Subaru must have known some people with Subarus are not going to use the same tyre or change all four .....so how reliable is the AWD if you don't follow the rules
On the Michelin Climate 2 they do lose a little in gas mileage but I don’t know how much it loses in gas I never measure to see. But overall you want a tire to perform excellent in all the categories and wear. Gas Mileage is a plus if they get good gas mileage but it’s the last thing I think of in purchasing tires.
On all all-wheel drive four wheel drive vehicles you have to replace all four at the exact same time and especially on the front it will tell you your alignment whether you've got ball joint problems tie rod problems that comes with all rigs it don't matter if it's Ford Chevy Dodge Toyota Honda Nissan it don't matter tires will tell a lot about the condition of your front end or your back end if it's independent
Question: my '21 Outback Onyx XT came with 5 full sized tires. A) Should you put the spare into the rotation if you do a rotation every 5-6k miles? Owner's manual shows a diagram of the 5-tire rotation pattern. It also says that all tires must be within 2/32in tread of one another and that all tires need to be the same. Assuming these factors all check out, should you do it? B) If you do a 5-tire rotation, do you need to reprogram the tpms system each time? (With a computer)
More comment: I've been doing a 5-tire rotation since I bought my car. I rotate every oil change, every 6k miles or 6 months (whichever comes first). Dealership tells me I shouldn't do it. Tells me the spare is just a spare and doesn't have a normal tpms sensor in it. Every time, I still tell them to do it because if I need to use my spare, I want to not ruin the AWD system since tread wear will be WAY off. Well, they do it every time, but try to charge me to reprogram the sensors with a computer. They tell me that otherwise, the tpms light will always be one. Well, by chance, this past rotation, their computer was undergoing an update, so they couldn't reprogram the sensors. I left with just the tires rotated and after a month, I have YET to see the tpms light even once.
@MrSubaru1387 In no way am I trying to be negative here, but this doesn't appear to be true. I just came inside from adding air to my tires due to drop on temperatures outside. I first drove the car down the street to activate the TPMS reading gauge, then I added air to each tire 1-by-1. The gauge showed each tire correctly, and I was able to watch the tire pressure increase for each corresponding tire. I know for a fact that the dealership did bring the full sized spare tire into the rotation too. My spare still had the factory(?) grease pen markings on it, while the other four had worn off or washed off. All my other tires had a unique stem cap too, but the spare didn't. Yeah, someone could've technically swapped the caps, but I doubt they'd mess with the grease pen markings. I really hate to say it, but this brings my confidence in, at least, my dealership down a bit. They either don't quite fully understand this car, or they are trying to "scam" me out money for each maintenance session (and btw, their price on doing this 5-tire rotation seems to change. First time, it was $120, second time, which was a few weeks ago, was $90).
I love this program and I count on you for good advice I live in the central part of South Carolina near Columbia I'm really looking for some place to teach me about Subarus tuning and anything else that would help me make this hobby into perhaps a part-time vocation. I've worked on all three of my Subarus needed to they're very simple lessons like you teach us and make it even better. But I'm finding here in Augusta Georgia there's not many people that tune if any and not many places I can go for good advice I'm not great. So if you have a class I'd come to it for a month a week or whatever and I'm sure there's others out there in my situation it would do the same we love savory we like your program would love the way you present the information please let me know
Nice vid Mr. Subaru! The Tire Rack shaving and the cleaning tool were new to me, but I have an interesting story to tell about wheel nut torque and shops and would love your input and / or insight into it (plus to pass along my observations to others): My 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX's (shop?) manual lists the wheel nut torque as being 66 foot pounds, which I always adhere to (with the obligatory follow up torque session). But when I go to my local tire shops (etc.), I've found them overtightening them. One shop even informed me that they don't tighten anything to less than 80 lb./ft. We've come to an agreement that I'll do the tightening myself each time I visit them. The thing is, the pressures that I've found sometimes were in excess of 200 lb./ft. when I measured them. The reason I checked was because breaking my '90 Pontiac Sunbird's steel wheel nuts off requires 100 lb./ft. plus the rust factor and is extremely laborious, so breaking 225 lb./ft. loose was even more so (it was nearly an injurious effort to say the least)! I used Snap-On's 50 - 250 lb./ft. torque wrench to measure the force required to break the nuts free with (I've been told that this does not accurately measure the force required, but this is from the same people who tightened my lug nuts well beyond factory specifications too). I know that some shops are concerned with too little torque causing wheels to fall off, but too much can warp rotors, and 200 lb./ft. is excessive. But, torque sticks do not seem to be working at all (I'm almost of the opinion that they're a gimmick) and I'd love to hear your take on this. Thank you in advance! 😉👍
I have had to replace numerous wheel studs due to A-holes at tire places over torqueing lug nuts on every car I have owned. Some in excess of 200 lb/ft as you have said. The other thing about wheel studs is that over torqueing just one time can stretch them, so you will never get and accurate tension on them again. I just don't get why these people don't understand this and why are they not trained better?
@@markantony3875 I would also like to know and / or bring this issue up to people's attention. I've been working on cars since the early 1990s and wouldn't consider myself anything more than a "shade tree" mechanic, yet I take better care of my cars than professional ones do (on average) and it costs far less to accomplish (though on occasions my mistakes do cost me more on a repair, but I've seen pros and shops make the exact same mistakes too and occasionally do something far worse). 🤔
Makes me wonder how the dealer service of tire rotation differs from the excellent procedure done by Mr. Subaru. Bet most dealers do not clear the brake and wheel surfaces before bolting up the wheels/tires. Hope I am wrong but logic suggests otherwise.
That was the rear differential where the driveshaft goes into. Between the rear wheels. It’s a big solid piece of suspension and strong enough to lift from. The front is trickier.
I never cross tires from one side to the other. I jack up one side, swap front to back and then repeat on the other side. Because I do this every 5,000 miles, I don't think it makes much of a difference. Some vehicles with full size spare tires recommend rotating the spare also. I never do that, as I consider any spare tire a way to get to repair. I don't know how many times I have discovered nails or spare metal before they have punctured my tires.
7:00 Had really hoped for a more mechanical explanation as to why you have to keep the tred depth close than 'the symmetrical AWD requires symmetry'. You started to talk a little more about why, but i still dont quite understand what goes wrong mechically. What wears out? Don't most Subarus have open front and rear differentials? Is it the center diff that wears out? As a mechanic, what would you expect to see wear faster or fail prematurely if 1 tire was new and the other 3 were more than the 1/4" circumference difference allowed by Subaru?
My daughter had a flat on a WRX. She replaced the one tire, not knowing about the wear issues. A couple months later a bearing on the rear axle wore out and cost 2 thousand bucks to get fixed. If I had know about the one tire, I would have had all tires replaced.
I got a flat tire on a road trip, and had to use my spare. My tires are larger than factory, so the AWD light was flashing orange at me, while I limped it to the tire shop to get it repaired. How long can you drive on a smaller tire (spare) without risking damage to the CV axle or differential?
Any miles driven with drastically different tire/wheel size can/will cause some degree of damage to the AWD system. In that case, a full sized spare or a tow would've been the best options.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you. My tires are only 1" diameter larger than stock and I only drove 5 miles at 40 mph. Will probably look into getting a larger spare though.
Know this off today subject ! But it Subaru Question . Can you put windshield tint / graft on 2017 Subaru outback with eyes sight technology , without affecting thee eye sight technically mode ??🤔
As a owner of european model of Forester I could say, that since the rims a fitted with TPMS senors, You cannot rotate the tyres without remapping the sensors, othewise Your flat tire light will stay on.
I'm on my 2nd Forester, the first one being a 2006, and the one thing I hate about them is tire wear. I drive slow, rotate my tires and always check and adjust the tire pressure and they won't last over 30K miles. Even Michelin Defenders with a 90K mile warranty. In my 2019 with 13K+ miles the Falkan tires are nearing replacement already.
Just went through this...again lol. 2 sets ago my tires where worn down to 5/32, but critically had already had them for several years, and summers here in the desert really take a toll on rubber's ehm...rubberiness, so on when I got sidewall damage that took a big chunk out of it, on goes a new set, about a year earlier than I'd planned but it was ok. A year later a nail does in the sidewall of the new set. I've barely had a week with the different sets front and rear (difference between new and current is of 2/32nds so in acceptable range) but the rubber feels so soft on the new ones, and so hardened on the old ones. I don't know how much of a difference that will account for, but I am getting new tires for the remaining axle in short order, rather pay for new tires than to deal with issues on the AWD clutch pack/diff.
As a person as broke as me, trying to protect my gifted outback, this channel has been so helpful. thank you for your service man.
only MR Subaru can makes a video about rotating tires interesting and worth watching
No doubt. He reminds of Grady from Practical Engineering.
well said
Some people miss the opportunity presented when doing the rotation yourself to see the condition of the tires and the condition of the brakes, axle boots and suspension components. A couple minutes at each corner of the car is well spent even if you don't find any issues. The best tools you have are your mark 1 eyeballs.
@@JP-hr3xq so if you get hungry you can eat one lmao
I just had 2 benadryls
ss
Uh yes, Mr Subaru is basically one of these rocket engineers misplaced in the Carolinas. The dude could be rich living in Colorado as folk would come for his blessing. He is as legit as they come, just a caring dude that loves mechanical things and helping folks out. I think he loves to just stare at Subaru motors operating, I know I do.
@@JP-hr3xq a?
Guy in Sky, 😜
From my experience the OE tires on my Subarus have been garbage. The only real positive is that they are quiet. Other than that, they don't brake or handle well, and don't last very long. But they probably get them at a large discount and riding soft makes people more likely to buy the car when new.
Fully explained why I can't replace just one tire or even a pair in a "yep, that makes sense" way. Offered solution to the expense of having to buy 4 new tires when only one is damaged. Offered pro tip of Hub Buddy, common sense, affordable, convenient way to prepare wheel/brake mating surface. Way cool beard I would never be able to grow😉. Video value 4 out of 4! Thanks for the info!
Your 2013 Crosstrek is cleaner underneath than my 2017 Impreza.
Gotta love Maine!
Also, for those of us in the salt belt:
I put anti-sieze between the hub & brake disc and the disc & wheel.
This helps to keep that corrosion to a minimum.
This makes it much easier to get those off after the winter season.
This is exactly what Auto Expert John Cadogan (automotive Engineer) recommends and applying a light coat of anti-seize to the wheel threads and only torquing to 70% of the recommend torque to allow you to change a tire on a dark busy highway day or night without a powered (air/elec) torque gun.
You don't use under coating?
If you already have rust and don't want to clean it up and and coat it, get some "sheep fat oil" thing, and when the car has been dry for 2-3 days coat the whole car thickly and with it, can also get a spray for those difficult parts and double coat.
It glues rust together and slows it down alot and protects against salt and futher rust damages. It's a cheap option if you don't want to go the more expensive route
Just watched a video about lanolin undercoating and was impressed with no rust.
th-cam.com/video/ju1mYMrjy5o/w-d-xo.html
I have over 54 thousand miles on my Michelin Defender tires and they still have good tread on them. I rotate them every 7000 miles. Best tires I ever had!
your videos are really a major service for humanity! So much good simple information! was definitely a great refresher for me!
Couple of quick points. The video shows the proper star pattern to tighten the wheels, you just forgot to mention it. Also, up north, if you have 5 32nds or below you will have poor snow traction. Tire stores would sell way less tires if people actually did the maintenance you demonstrated. Great video.
Hi from Australia, I have a 2018 Forester XT Premium with the luxury of having a full size spare. When the vehicle was new, I changed the factory fitted tyres to Yokohama Geolandar AT's. As with my previous 2013 Forester XT, I rotate the tyres with each 12,500 service. Rotate using the FIVE tyres and have wheel balancing and front and rear alignment done at the same time. I'm currently on my second set of Geolandar AT's for my current Forester (3 sets on the previous model) and have been getting around 120,000 kilometres from a set of 5 tyres. It pays to look after your tyres AND to have tyres that suit the driving you do. BTW, great channel. Cheers 🍻
What is the advantage of replacing brand new tyres?
I had a nail puncture the sidewall of one of my tires on my Forester a few months ago, and I had to replace all 4 tires. The tire shop took care of me, and I basically got the tires for half price since the were generous on the trade in value of the 3 good tires.
My Subaru dealer got a new tire and had it shaved down after a flat.
I must live a charmed life. Am from Canada and several years ago on Hilton Head SC. I ruined a tire ( winter tire of course). Drove around several days on the temporary, first on the front ,then on the rear after reading that in the Owners manual. Of course they had to order in the new winter tire ( Hankook) . Had no trouble after that, even though the new one would have been slightly larger. Think I did that next winter too.
Using mismatched tires has damaged the center differential on my '10 OB 6-MT at only 99k miles due to overheating the silicon fill which causes popping/stuttering on sharp turns when the drivetrain is warmed up. The previous owner appears to have driven for an excessive period with either a mismatched set or using the donut spare that caused a continual difference in front to rear axle speeds and subsequent unnecessary heating due to the clutch plates churning and overheating the silicon. Matched set of tires are a must.
That's why I hate buying used vehicles. You don't know what the idiot owner before you did to it.
@@mikeoxlong3676 Yeah, true. I found the other sketchy stuff before I bought it but didn't drive it enough to warm the drivetrain to catch that one. LOL! Well, $400 for the part and 4 to 6 hours to replace it - still not bad. I got it for a great price.
how mismatch was it? i.e. it the same tread depth but different make/model.
@@Mewzyc I'm not sure. It was a one-owner when I bought it with 97k miles. The tires were a matched set with similar tread depth then but in the 11 years that the original owner had it, who knows what happened. It may have been towed incorrectly - that will damage the center diff as well.
@@bujin5455 I would agree in certain usages of viscous couplings and I have likewise used them in industry. In the Subaru center differential, the silicon fill is less than 100 grams - 50 to 60 if I remember correctly. Constant churning by the clutch plates and the force imposed by several horsepower over an extended period of time without cooling of the fluid other than airflow beneath the vehicle results in a change in the properties of the silicon - the fill turns black and tar-like and changes the temperature characteristics of the material and causes binding similar to a 4-wheel drive vehicle without a center differential. The material, once overheated, cannot return to its original specifications. When cool and less that 20 deg C the damaged fluid does not cause binding. Once the damaged fluid reaches more than 25 to 30 deg C during normal driving, the tar--like state of the heat damaged silicon causes binding and increased heating during operation and exacerbates the problem until cooled down. It is notable that these units aren't readily serviceable (ie, drain/flush/clean/refill) and must be replaced. The center differentials for CVT vehicles are much different - I refer to only manual transmission Subaru vehicles.
As a tow truck ops. Thank you for mentioning the spare tire. Even some dealers apparently don't check it which kinda makes me mad lol
Thank you for all the helpful information on car maintenance. Personally I’m an enthusiast so I know a good bit about my Subaru, but most of the population is driving around a car with no idea how it works. The repair shops in my area are always slammed with older cars being fixed because of the lack of new cars on the market. Having the ability to do basic maintenance like this will help people a lot.
When you buy tires next time check out the Michelin Climate 2. It out performs all tires out there and it has a snow peak which is rated as a snow tire but don't have to remove it in the summer and it is quiet. It has excellent rating in snow and very good to excellent handling, Braking, Hydroplaning, cornering.
This makes me happy as I’m getting these tires put on tomorrow!!
I have the older climate pluses and they are performing great on my 03 Forester
I've had my set on my 2014 Impreza Sport for over a year now. They are great in snow and in the summer have great cornering grip too. Well worth it.
I just got these.. curious how much of a decrease in avg mpgs? What PSI do you run these on bare street vs snow?
This is a pretty bold statement considering you can get some really good tires for a subaru esp outback or Forrester because the tires available are the same as light trucks/suv tires, which is really awesome.
Response from the other half of the planet 🌍
An Israeli car guy\electrition following the channel.
Thow I'm aware of most issues mentioned in this clip, i still find it very much useful for refresh or guide other car owners, not just for Subaru fan\owner.
In my case I now own a 2002 Impreza sportwagon 1.6 manual, bit powerless but very fun for me.
191000 km on the odometer
Bought in 2008 as a replacement for my earlier 1994 first Impreza 4 dr also 1.6 manual that was totaled after 10 years & almost 280000 km, which was very sadly for me 🥲
Excellent tire tips for the DiYer🤣
One important detail is after removing the corrosion from the hub and rim faces, smear light coating of antiseize paste to those cleaned surfaces. Really important in states with winter weather!!.
Great channel 👍👍🥶🌨️❄️☕
That's interesting. It probably helps reduce or eliminate the corrosion with the thin layer.
A nail or minor puncture (on the tires tread) is usually not a tire killer. If the tire is repairable, A proper plug repair should last the remaining life of the tire and spare you from the cost of a replacement.
Thanks, now I need a hub buddy all of a sudden! Ordered and received in a day! My son got a blow out in his RR snow tire with his winter wheels last month. Had him put on the spare and install the FWD fuse (2001 Forester 4EAT) I recently put on the Snows and made sure he had air in the spare before going back to college. He came home and I had to put the All season wheels back on until I was able to replace all the snows. It's an old car with 220K miles but still runs well, I didn't want to chance messing up the drive-train. Snows back on last week just in time for winter weather in Nebraska.
Are there any issues running Studded tires on 2014 Crosstrek? I heard the local dealer say it might not be the best for the diffs and the CVT ?
@@aarshmathur2909 I'm not an expert but I don't know why studs would make a difference. My concern with studs is they are really only good on packed snow and ice. On regular tarmac you'd have worse traction than non studded. If you only drove on dirt and packed snow and Ice you'd be fine but on the regular roads I think tire rubber tec has some decent rubber even when it gets icy. I carry a set of Low Clearance Z cables when it gets really bad. I have winter wheels with dedicated snows but not studded.
You gotta say "That ain't going nowhere" for it to be super solid. I don't make the rules.
One option is to buy a used tire with the same tread depth. Just had to do this with our Honda Accord on a busted tire. Bought the replacement tire on Ebay for about 1/2 the price of new with only about 2/32 of wear on the tire.
great video.......especially showing the LL Bean tires as an example. Knowledge is empowering--thanks for putting it out there.
Yes, Love the LL Bean example at the end. Mr Subaru isn't shy about being an example of what we all do even though we "know" better. He has the skill and patience to show what should be and the wisdom to know that it can't always be. Not like someone who will not be named, who's been doing this for 52 years who likes to humble-brag.
Minor point to give you a tip, Before installing your rims you can put a thin coat of fluid film on both rim and brake drum the this will keep the electrolysis between the two metals down to a minimum
And make removing the rim a whole lot easier next season after the winter.
What is fluid film?
@@markevans506
Fluid film is a special oil that has protection properties from rust with a bit of unusual form that doesn't evaporate. It's like sprayable grease, allowing parts to ease apart when dismantling. When used properly - protection against rust and corrosion and from reaction of two different metals like steel and aluminum which electrolysis seems to occur.
I have a 2014 Outback. My low tire pressure light is on. I checked the pressures and they were all around 40psi from the dealer (max 51 w these tires) I reduced them all to the spec on the door jam and the light is still on. I love your videos as they have helped me understand the car I love.
You probably need to reset your TPMS monitor or "read" your tires' new pressure into the vehicle's computer. This procedure should be spelled out in the owner's manual; if you don't have it you should be able to find it online. The procedure can vary widely based on the year/make/model of your car. Our 2019 Honda Odyssey automatically updates the tire pressures into the TPMS monitor when you add air to the tires. But most newer Audis do not; you have to manually tell them to store the updated pressure through the MMI.
Or check your spare. Vehicles with full size spares have TPMS also.
When I rotate the tires on my 2017 Impreza and Outback, I just do front to back and back to front. I asked the local dealership how they did it and thats what they told me.
I own a 2004 Outback. I was told by two independent Subaru repair shops to perform a straight rotation as well. No criss-cross tire rotation.
For directional tires yeah... The modified cross ensures the tires dont get back to same position for 4 rotations
@@torkrench I don't have directional tires. I have always just done a straight rotation and have never had problems.
@@teddyg655 I was wondering about that criss-cross, too. The owner's manual for my 03 Outback just says front to back on the same side.
Guys, I literally inserted a diagram, straight from the Subaru factory service manual.
WOW! Can hardly believe I can get this knowledge and experince for free! THANKS!
Sorry if mentioned in other comments...if you run long enough and fast enough on a wheel with a warped rotor, at least in the front, your tire will start to run with a toe like issue. Excessive toe in or out will trash a tire the quickest since you are basically dragging the tire. cocked. Appreciate the video for the Subaru community for a good DIY for owners. Shops are about time/money (generally), and techs aren't getting paid more for free visual inspections.
If you have alloy wheels, be sure the recheck the torque after driving the vehicle a certain number of mile. I've heard different recommendations but I usually do it at 500 miles. I find it pretty rare that the lugs will be loose but it's not never.
Yes sir I do the same thing I do it within about 100 miles though and then every so often I’ll come back and check them and one or two are somewhat off not too bad
This is especially true with brand new wheels.
I reward myself after a tire change with a trick to DQ, and retorque upon my return. Wrench goes in the car with me for the next week, retorquing after my first highway trip to work, then a week later.
I keep an older torque wrench with a socket on it in the car, dedicated just for the wheels on our Subies. I use it often, just 'cause I can. Good excuse to get a good electronic one for the shop.
@@TheGhungFu you keep it out of tension while its not being used correct?
Lol, nice video as usual, I always carry goop, plugs, and a compressor, so it's ok if the spare goes flat. I do take it out from time to time and wipe it, plus treat it with preservative. Fun stuff.
Most important thing about tires on a Subaru is to use a better tire when the first set wears down. Factory tires suck in snow. Get something just a little more aggressive or you will be disappointed.
If you don’t need snow tires the OEM tires are very good. I got 60k out of mine. I will replace with same if available.
Mine are Yokohama Advent GT .
@@MrDoccus same experience with factory tires. As for winter performance, that’s what winter tires are for, can’t expect 1 tire to do everything well.
or just buy a dedicated snow tire.
@@Mewzyc Goodrich Advantage TA so good you do not need separate snow tire. Quiet on road too. Have been on my Outback three winters. Great tires.
True. Factory tires are about cost and economy
Buy an extra wheel and 5 non directional tires, rotate it in, you will have a full size spare and can avoid buying 4 new tires if something happens to 1
Rotate and balanced every 6000 by the dealer and my 13 sti loves to eat the inside tread. Everything is in dealer specifications like alignment and suspension. My 99$ cheap tires seem to last longer than the 270$ tires I have used twice in the past. I’m on my fourth set of tires since it was new and now I have 92000 and yes it is stil a fun car to have.
Sounds like an alignment issue. Sometimes the specs are wrong in the machine, it's out of calibration, or someone untrained is doing said alignment. Might check the alignment somewhere else to be sure.
I would suggest checking the camber . In or out could make all the difference.
Been replacing tires in pairs since 2005 on various Subarus. Guess I must have been lucky.
i always put some antirust between wheel and disk and hub so they don't wind up stuck on there even in the south i knew people who drove their 4 wheel drive vehicles on beach and the salt water welded the wheel to the brake disk and hub
You know I am a big wrx guy but that 2013 crosstrek is nice. I like the body look.
My 03 out back is having a power steering issue. Cold start it is hard to turn. It will turn once the car moves, It chirps like you are turning it against the lock. Belt is tight fluid is full. Doesn't make noise. Once it warms up it steers normally. I do have the suction line orings on order.
Thanks for putting this vídeo together. Very useful to have our subies in optimal condition through a good care.
I’ve been using Nokia WRG4 tires on my Subaru and love them here in NE Ohio.
Running Nokian WRG3 on my STI this winter...they are really good too!
@@richdrives yes they are, I’ve used the WRG3 on earlier Subarus over the last 10 years. 👍
@@richdrives My 03 Outback has had Nokian WRG3s since 2017. Run great.
My 2020 outback came with Yokohama avid gt tires, at 16000 miles the tread was worn off to the cords on the inside only, this was brought to my attention during a pa state inspection. Told them to align it as I was at a Subaru dealership. It was in perfect alignment. I have since seen this on other outbacks and called Subaru safety department who took my complaint and issued me a 500 dollar credit. My 2014 outback never had this problem and at 90,000 miles has never been aligned.
@@pulda015 I am a trucker with approx 2.5 million miles under my belt. Why would I pay for a unnecessary alignment when I know how to inspect my tires and they are wearing perfectly? The car is inspected in pa yearly and my son-in-law owns his own shop. No problems here. You need to keep to the bus.
I and a friend have the same problem. And the dealer didn’t tell us about it. There’s definitely something going on that no one is talking about.
Would rubbing the wheel contact points on the hub down with anti-seize protect the aluminum to steel contact area from corrosion? Thanks for your thorough video.
Damn...even I understood that. Gonna buy me a Hub Buddy. Thank you!
My Michelin CrossClimate 2 tires are directional, so I'll have to use the straight front-to-back rotation pattern.
Great video! Nice touch checking the spare! I do that every time I head out of town.
I’ll get plenty of hate for this but I buy used tires from Ebay. There are some seemingly reputable companies on there that sell used tires in varying tread depths. What this allows me to do is to match a replacement tire with the same amount of remaining tread as the tires on the car. I also use it to correct mismatched sets of tires on cars I’ve purchased.
I’ve probably bought 15 or more tires this way and never had an issue. Maybe something to consider but beware of age and if they have been repaired where that repair was done. I have seen some that have sidewalk repairs which personally I would not recommend for safety.
In addition to the wear of tires, you can look up what the tire band n tyoe and specifically the size of the tire (this is very important as tread depth will vary based on tire size, even if its the exact same tire brand/type). Anyway rhis info is helpful as the manufacturer will list the optimal time to replace and you can know what the tread depth was at the start to know what % you have used to what % you have left, which will give you a great idea of how much time you have left with those tires if you have a similar driving patterns and mileage per month.
I never drive enough to rotate them since I switch winters and all seasons every 6 months and don't put on that much mileage.
The Subaru Forester I have coming in has a full size spare with matching wheel. How would you do a five tire rotation
Generally they arent the same tire. If previously not 5 wheel rotated then theyre likely dissimilar in tread. If not the case then look up graphic for 5 tire rotation
I'd just do it more often and add the spare into the rotation every time.
Move every tyre clockwise or counter-clockwise and put the one moving across the rear into the spare location.
@@torkrench YesgGenerally, however his statement makes it sound like he may have ordered a new Forester (perhaps the Wilderness) that comes with a 5th full size wheel/tire of the same kind. The Subaru Outback Wilderness also comes with 5 identical wheel/tires.
Hmmm…. If I get a nail in my tire I’m going to the Mexican tire shop to give the man TEN BUCKS to take the tire off the rim insert a plug from the inside, rebalance the tire and GO ABOUT MY DAY. Just Sayin
Outback bought new 2 years ago. At 3200 miles, nail in a sidewall. My dealer near where tire low and they had a matching tire in stock and had me going quickly.
I had my tires rotated like this on another car and the car pulled to the right after that. When the tires were re-rotated front to back (put back on the original sides) the pulling went away. I think the tires had taken a set to rotate that one way and turning them around caused them to fight the new direction.
This is because you went to long without rotating the tires. They can't moved after that. Only option is to run them as is until thier early demise. Then remember to rotate you next set of tires.
Got a 5th rim for my 2002 forester so i can put spare 5th tire on every rotation and rest one in the spare tire compartment.
This way in the case i ever get a flat my spare tire is worn with all the others and i get a little more life out of all my tires.
i have a 2015 Croosttek and on my 2nd set of tires, life was pretty busy and I neglected rotating the tires during the 2nd half of the tires' life (after 30k). my justification is that it's a AWD so the wear and tear should be pretty close to all 4 tires.
boy was I wrong. when I was planning for a road trip, I checked all 4 tires and was shocked to see the front end ones wear a lot faster. the rear was still showing good amount of thread. I think the engine and driver weight has a factor on why the front tires wear faster.
so yeah, got new set of tires after that. tried buying only 2 from discount tire. I typed in my vehicle but they do have a warning about AWD and that I should but a whole set instead. so I did and I definitely learned my lesson as far as rotating the tires.
Great, informative video. I've accidentally damaged one of the winter tyres on the same H6 outback as yours. Since I've only driven with the set a max of 3k kms of light driving, I decided to buy only 2. We'll see how it goes :)
Just a quick note. I live in a snow/salt belt and I've learned that backing off the wheel nuts a turn or so and then driving the vehicle a few feet will break the grip of a wheel that's seized on the hub. I always do this before removing the wheel.
@@slalomking I used to do that before I discovered this method. But now that I'm 75 I need to keep things as easy as possible! And I'll confess that since I got my Outback Wilderness, I leave those more aggressive tires on year round. They're not as good as snow tires, but they're winter rated and good enough for the amount of winter driving I do now.
MrSubaru, I'm thinking of getting Subaru and have been trying to get familiar with them through your videos. Love the content! This video is good general information about tires, and some good AWD specifics too. I would have liked to see your guidance on how to treat the car when you have to drive using that mismatched/oddball sized spare tire. That would be very useful.
In addition to Shawn's question of how to drive with the spare, how many miles is considered safe to drive with the mismatched tire before you need to correct it? If I am on a trip and have to use the spare, depending on my location and if places are open (Sunday/holidays), I could need to put 400-500 miles on that configuration. Thanks for your response.
Yeah. I never thought about that before, but now that it's on the table... Enquiring minds need to know!
I am new to Subaru, just purchased a Crosstrek LTD last November. I live I. Iowa winters are brutal, car was amazing in the snow. I drive conservatively due to price of fuel, stay at 60 on the interstate. I commute 50 mls per day. I am getting an average of 31 to a high of 37 mpg!!
Interesting question that didn't get answered. My 2002 Forester has a regular size spare and I rotate it in with the other tires to keep all close to the same size because Subaru makes a big deal about all tires needing to be the same size to prevent damage. Amazed they put a doughnut spare in newer cars. Wonder how far you can go on that before damaging the center differential.
Greeting from Malaysia..yes I would like to know too....how long did Subaru advocate to drive with mismatch spare tire before damaging the center differentials. Thanks
Had a screw in the tyre on our Outback with less than 1k on the clock, screw was in a position it could not be repaired as it was too close to the sidewall. Replaced with a new exact same make/model of tyre which proved difficult to obtain as they were discontinued but did manage to get a new one.
Need to watch that jack sliding off of the front cross member!
Bought a 2017 Crosstrek December 2020 and last week during routine service the dealership noticed I had Yokohama Goodlandar G95 on front axle and G91 on the rear. Four years and 18,000 miles later? They wanted to sell me TWO new tires. Replaced all for a couple of days later.
This is a perfect video 👍🏼
I would like a video on how to reset the tire locations after doing a tire rotation. Newer Subaru's show the tire location. All the owners manual say is take it to the dealer to have the location reset.
I’ve always felt comfortable replacing just 2 tires on my Subarus, putting the new ones in the front. I’ve never had any problems. I’ve never had problems but won’t do it when the car is under warranty still. I drive my Subarus till the shit out and it’s the engine that goes first.
If possible use tyres rated A or better grip in the wet. So many new tyres from weird name brands are lethal on the road.
Fantastic video! Thanks for your time.
Were I live here in Canada, I have both a summer and winter tire sets. My nephew does my seasonal swaps, and check things you mention as well as the brakes. And if I haven't had a recent oil change, he will do that at the same time.
Got a new set of Toyo AT3s for my SX4 for this snow storm. Luv em.
😁👍 Looking forward to the outback strut exchange video.
Although we don't get a lot of snow here 40 miles north of Atlanta, we get whacked once or twice a year. My driveway goes downhill from the house to the road, 100 feet. The slope is about 30 degrees. A couple of times I've strapped on tire cables to get my 2001 Forester down the steep driveway. Hope I'm not breaking anything. I never go more than a mile or two before taking the cables off. It's a rough ride lol
Love that Harbor Freight jack! I read they are good jacks. Not exactly lightweight though.
Color dots balance please
I had a non-reparable flat on my 2023 Crosstrek. The service department at the dealership told me that since I had 2/32 to 3/32 wear it would not be necessary to replace all four. I had bought tire protection when I bought the car so I got away for no charge.
Always great learning from you.
Hi, thank you for your excellent videos. I'm searching through your videos trying to find out why my 2014 Subaru Impreza wagon sport limited 2.0 has needed 5 alignments. I'm the original owner, it's just rolled over to 50,000 miles. I had nails in tires, purchased 3 sets of new tires since I owned my car. So frustrating.
Something is definitely not right. All the same shop or multiples?
Hi, and Thank you for your reply.
All but one alignment at same mechanic. The front passenger tire keeps wearing almost bald on the inner side.
MrSubaru, I've only recently discovered all of your content here and simply enjoy your thorough explanation of everything among the topic of each video.
I wanted to comment here just to inform you, in case you weren't aware. I noticed that when lifting the front of the car at 2:57, since the floorjack is unable to easily roll on the terrain you're working on, the pad was slipping on the crossmember. Maybe it was still supporting enough of the crossmember but from the camera's perspective, the car looked awfully close to slipping off the jack. Stay safe out there!
Tyre pressure between front and rear wheels is also important. Your Tyre pressures between front and rear needs to be adjusted depending on whether you are fully loaded up or not.
Example: If you are going on a long trip and carrying a full load of passengers and luggage then the pressure between front and rear tyres are quite different. If you don't check this you will damage your centre differential even if your tyres pattern and wear is all identical.
So what are the differences?
14xt 2inch lifted rc struts wrapped in stock sized falken wild peak trails
Any credence to some old advice I heard to run your tires slightly over the sticker rating (by 2-3 psi) to account for cold weather for us Northerners and to prevent inadvertent TPMS light activation?
I generally bump a bit especially in the front tires to help balance the edge wear that comes with more backroad/little highway driving. Also yeah you have to account for temp changes
So much excellent information in this. I need to rotate my tires and I also suspect I have a wheel bearing going out in the front... just hit 110,000 miles on an only 01 forester. Going solid but really needs the timing chain serviced and the front bearings replaced.
This goes for any vehicle with all-wheel drive or automatic four wheel drive. Sad thing is most people don't know that the tires need to be within 3 32s. Even yes some mechanics don't even know this or simply don't care to tell you, in hopes to get more expensive services from you down the road.
I appreciate how you do your work the correct way. 😎👍
I never drive on dry rot tires its common knowledge to change all 4 tires another option buy all 4 if lot tread on the tires you can trade them in in at most tire stores
Aren't you supposed to torque them when the tires are on the ground?
I been watching your channel for sometime now I have a 2021 Subaru outback Premium With a dummy tire My question is how harmful do you think using a tire plugger kit Before tire goes flat Overusing a dummy And would I still need to replace that tire immediately.
Im partial to Cooper Enduromax.
4 SEASON- Not ALLseason.
Winter 3 peak certified.
Excellent milage and traction, temp and wear ratings.
Nominal price and IMO, doubles the ride quaily consistantly year round.
Thank you for this very informative video, I shudder to think how much it'll cost me if one goes wrong and when I have to replace all 4 tyres! 🤦♂️ About $780 dollars 😱
Are the AWD systems for the newer CVT's more tolerant of differences in circumference? I know with the older automatics there is a FWD fuse to install when you need to use your spare, moved to the rear. I have a 2019 Impreza and the owners manual says to move the spare to the rear but nothing about installing a fuse now. Are they just banking on you not driving far enough to damage the drivetrain. I carry a compressor and some plugs to use in a pinch, I'd rather avoid the situation altogether if possible but with a blowout that's not an option.
I was watching gears and gasoline and Ben mention this AWD system and tyre problem with Subaru so I came here to find out more .......question though Subaru must have known some people with Subarus are not going to use the same tyre or change all four .....so how reliable is the AWD if you don't follow the rules
On the Michelin Climate 2 they do lose a little in gas mileage but I don’t know how much it loses in gas I never measure to see. But overall you want a tire to perform excellent in all the categories and wear. Gas Mileage is a plus if they get good gas mileage but it’s the last thing I think of in purchasing tires.
On all all-wheel drive four wheel drive vehicles you have to replace all four at the exact same time and especially on the front it will tell you your alignment whether you've got ball joint problems tie rod problems that comes with all rigs it don't matter if it's Ford Chevy Dodge Toyota Honda Nissan it don't matter tires will tell a lot about the condition of your front end or your back end if it's independent
Question: my '21 Outback Onyx XT came with 5 full sized tires.
A) Should you put the spare into the rotation if you do a rotation every 5-6k miles?
Owner's manual shows a diagram of the 5-tire rotation pattern. It also says that all tires must be within 2/32in tread of one another and that all tires need to be the same. Assuming these factors all check out, should you do it?
B) If you do a 5-tire rotation, do you need to reprogram the tpms system each time? (With a computer)
More comment:
I've been doing a 5-tire rotation since I bought my car. I rotate every oil change, every 6k miles or 6 months (whichever comes first).
Dealership tells me I shouldn't do it. Tells me the spare is just a spare and doesn't have a normal tpms sensor in it. Every time, I still tell them to do it because if I need to use my spare, I want to not ruin the AWD system since tread wear will be WAY off.
Well, they do it every time, but try to charge me to reprogram the sensors with a computer. They tell me that otherwise, the tpms light will always be one.
Well, by chance, this past rotation, their computer was undergoing an update, so they couldn't reprogram the sensors. I left with just the tires rotated and after a month, I have YET to see the tpms light even once.
I was going to post the same question. I have a '20 model.
The TPMS light shouldn't come one. You'll just see the tire pressures at the wrong locations.
@MrSubaru1387 In no way am I trying to be negative here, but this doesn't appear to be true. I just came inside from adding air to my tires due to drop on temperatures outside. I first drove the car down the street to activate the TPMS reading gauge, then I added air to each tire 1-by-1. The gauge showed each tire correctly, and I was able to watch the tire pressure increase for each corresponding tire. I know for a fact that the dealership did bring the full sized spare tire into the rotation too. My spare still had the factory(?) grease pen markings on it, while the other four had worn off or washed off. All my other tires had a unique stem cap too, but the spare didn't. Yeah, someone could've technically swapped the caps, but I doubt they'd mess with the grease pen markings.
I really hate to say it, but this brings my confidence in, at least, my dealership down a bit. They either don't quite fully understand this car, or they are trying to "scam" me out money for each maintenance session (and btw, their price on doing this 5-tire rotation seems to change. First time, it was $120, second time, which was a few weeks ago, was $90).
I love this program and I count on you for good advice I live in the central part of South Carolina near Columbia I'm really looking for some place to teach me about Subarus tuning and anything else that would help me make this hobby into perhaps a part-time vocation. I've worked on all three of my Subarus needed to they're very simple lessons like you teach us and make it even better. But I'm finding here in Augusta Georgia there's not many people that tune if any and not many places I can go for good advice I'm not great. So if you have a class I'd come to it for a month a week or whatever and I'm sure there's others out there in my situation it would do the same we love savory we like your program would love the way you present the information please let me know
Nice vid Mr. Subaru! The Tire Rack shaving and the cleaning tool were new to me, but I have an interesting story to tell about wheel nut torque and shops and would love your input and / or insight into it (plus to pass along my observations to others):
My 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX's (shop?) manual lists the wheel nut torque as being 66 foot pounds, which I always adhere to (with the obligatory follow up torque session). But when I go to my local tire shops (etc.), I've found them overtightening them. One shop even informed me that they don't tighten anything to less than 80 lb./ft. We've come to an agreement that I'll do the tightening myself each time I visit them. The thing is, the pressures that I've found sometimes were in excess of 200 lb./ft. when I measured them. The reason I checked was because breaking my '90 Pontiac Sunbird's steel wheel nuts off requires 100 lb./ft. plus the rust factor and is extremely laborious, so breaking 225 lb./ft. loose was even more so (it was nearly an injurious effort to say the least)! I used Snap-On's 50 - 250 lb./ft. torque wrench to measure the force required to break the nuts free with (I've been told that this does not accurately measure the force required, but this is from the same people who tightened my lug nuts well beyond factory specifications too).
I know that some shops are concerned with too little torque causing wheels to fall off, but too much can warp rotors, and 200 lb./ft. is excessive. But, torque sticks do not seem to be working at all (I'm almost of the opinion that they're a gimmick) and I'd love to hear your take on this. Thank you in advance!
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Amen - this is caused by lack of trained auto techs!!!
I have had to replace numerous wheel studs due to A-holes at tire places over torqueing lug nuts on every car I have owned. Some in excess of 200 lb/ft as you have said. The other thing about wheel studs is that over torqueing just one time can stretch them, so you will never get and accurate tension on them again. I just don't get why these people don't understand this and why are they not trained better?
@@markantony3875 I would also like to know and / or bring this issue up to people's attention. I've been working on cars since the early 1990s and wouldn't consider myself anything more than a "shade tree" mechanic, yet I take better care of my cars than professional ones do (on average) and it costs far less to accomplish (though on occasions my mistakes do cost me more on a repair, but I've seen pros and shops make the exact same mistakes too and occasionally do something far worse).
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What about resetting the TPMS? I'm new to Subaru, bought my daughter a 2023 base model Impreza and I'm about to rotate the tires.
Makes me wonder how the dealer service of tire rotation differs from the excellent procedure done by Mr. Subaru. Bet most dealers do not clear the brake and wheel surfaces before bolting up the wheels/tires. Hope I am wrong but logic suggests otherwise.
Not to mention cross threaded and over torqued wheel bolts!
Can you link us to where you got your safety glasses from?
Great staff.
I'd like you to do another "basics" video - explain in detail where did you lift the centre of the car with that jack :)
That was the rear differential where the driveshaft goes into. Between the rear wheels. It’s a big solid piece of suspension and strong enough to lift from. The front is trickier.
I never cross tires from one side to the other. I jack up one side, swap front to back and then repeat on the other side. Because I do this every 5,000 miles, I don't think it makes much of a difference. Some vehicles with full size spare tires recommend rotating the spare also. I never do that, as I consider any spare tire a way to get to repair. I don't know how many times I have discovered nails or spare metal before they have punctured my tires.
7:00 Had really hoped for a more mechanical explanation as to why you have to keep the tred depth close than 'the symmetrical AWD requires symmetry'. You started to talk a little more about why, but i still dont quite understand what goes wrong mechically.
What wears out? Don't most Subarus have open front and rear differentials? Is it the center diff that wears out? As a mechanic, what would you expect to see wear faster or fail prematurely if 1 tire was new and the other 3 were more than the 1/4" circumference difference allowed by Subaru?
My daughter had a flat on a WRX. She replaced the one tire, not knowing about the wear issues. A couple months later a bearing on the rear axle wore out and cost 2 thousand bucks to get fixed. If I had know about the one tire, I would have had all tires replaced.
I got a flat tire on a road trip, and had to use my spare. My tires are larger than factory, so the AWD light was flashing orange at me, while I limped it to the tire shop to get it repaired.
How long can you drive on a smaller tire (spare) without risking damage to the CV axle or differential?
Any miles driven with drastically different tire/wheel size can/will cause some degree of damage to the AWD system. In that case, a full sized spare or a tow would've been the best options.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you. My tires are only 1" diameter larger than stock and I only drove 5 miles at 40 mph. Will probably look into getting a larger spare though.
Know this off today subject !
But it Subaru Question .
Can you put windshield tint / graft on 2017 Subaru outback with eyes sight technology , without affecting thee eye sight technically mode ??🤔
As a owner of european model of Forester I could say, that since the rims a fitted with TPMS senors, You cannot rotate the tyres without remapping the sensors, othewise Your flat tire light will stay on.
What year? I rotate the tires on my 2015 Forester XT every 5-6 months and they automatically relink so there is no warning or relearning necessary
I'm on my 2nd Forester, the first one being a 2006, and the one thing I hate about them is tire wear. I drive slow, rotate my tires and always check and adjust the tire pressure and they won't last over 30K miles. Even Michelin Defenders with a 90K mile warranty. In my 2019 with 13K+ miles the Falkan tires are nearing replacement already.
Just went through this...again lol. 2 sets ago my tires where worn down to 5/32, but critically had already had them for several years, and summers here in the desert really take a toll on rubber's ehm...rubberiness, so on when I got sidewall damage that took a big chunk out of it, on goes a new set, about a year earlier than I'd planned but it was ok. A year later a nail does in the sidewall of the new set. I've barely had a week with the different sets front and rear (difference between new and current is of 2/32nds so in acceptable range) but the rubber feels so soft on the new ones, and so hardened on the old ones. I don't know how much of a difference that will account for, but I am getting new tires for the remaining axle in short order, rather pay for new tires than to deal with issues on the AWD clutch pack/diff.