Matthias, thank you for not attacking your viewers for not watching your videos. I watch your videos because you're an interesting person that thinks differently.
Mattias, I appreciate your problem solving! Two little details of this video caught my eye: I like the simplicity of the indexing screw/hole arrangement, and the hold-down springs are really nice, too. I could imagine using a spring to hold the lid down, but my solution would have been to use a cup hook on the spring eye - your solution is much easier to use!
You shouldn't use construction adhesive while wearing long sleeves. The sleeve could get caught in the joint you are sealing, and you'd be stuck wearing the box everywhere you go while wearing the jacket. That or you'll have to take the jacket off and have to leave it hanging on your dust collector forever. Love your videos, you are a true genius, despite your cavalier flaunting of long sleeve construction adhesive safety best practices.
I was hoping someone would bring this up. This happened to my mother when she was carrying me in her womb. They wouldn’t let her in the hospital with a dust collector attached to her sleeve, so she was forced to give birth in a cabinet factory.
it violates every page of the european dust collector safety act of 1986 which is why home-built dust collectors are illegal in the EU now. you'd never see such an unsafe thing in the EU!!!
I guess its better than getting your bare arm glued to the dust extractor. They might call him The Winter Woodworker. Longing, Rusted, Seventeen, Daybreak, Furnace, Nine...
A lot of work but in the end I think you have what you need once you get the relay box built so it will all work at the same time. You have a lot of great ideas for solving some of your problems you encountered. Great build Matthias.
Its applications are in construction. And it goes bad after a few years. The main use is on joists under sub floors. But they make application specific adhesives for that now.
byw yup the subfloor adhesive is some crazy strong stuff, use it weekly framing houses, and every once and a while I come home with an extra case as they almost send enough to change the tube every 5 sheets
I use a similar collector box for metal chips. It was inspired by some of your other dust collectors. My shop vac pulls the chips into the box and they fall out into a bucket inside. I have no need for a filter as their is no metal "dust". It keeps my work space a lot cleaner than blowing metal chips all over the place with a air hose.
i can see the improvement on your ideas since the last time you made the dust collector. like the window so you can see inside when it is full genius idea.
I like these dust extractor videos and watched them all. But I don’t think they are very convenient. They take a lot of time to build and they are bulky. You also need to clean out the filters. I just bough one of those plastic cyclones for 50$ and attached it to a bucket. Then my shopvac sucks up all the dust. I put the shopvac outside to limit the noise (to my neighbors). Works very well and the shopvac filter is never full. I also layed down sewage pipes throughout my shop to extend the range of the vacuum. The small diameter makes this less bulky.
those plastic cyclones - it's obscene how they cost more than a shopvac! And shopvacs are super loud. And the hoses and bucket and all that - just not very conenient!
I don´t find it obscene. They are built in smaller quantaties, so they must cost more. The dust collection for the Panto Router costes 139$ and is also just a piece of plastic (with bristles). You need hoses anyway, no matter which system you use. The bucket? Costs 10$ and requires no assembly. Yeah the noise is bad. Thats the only issues I have with them.
Yes, you're right. And if you use a Festool shop vac with cyclone it is effective and almost silent. And a normal dust collection system works even better (much better). But if Mathias had a normal job and bought a dust collection system what would we watch??
I don’t care if it’s gears, furniture, dust collection, or if he decides to blog about makeup. When Matthias posts a video, I click. And I’m never disappointed 👍
Those longs springs are great. At some stage an old chair was destroyed and somebody had the forethought to save all the long springs. They come in very handy for various projects. I use one to keep a small gate closed and it helps keep the sheep out of one of the sheds. Cheers, David.
If you don't need to remove the filter, I suggest using mastic tape. The adhesive is far superior. I manage a Baker Distributing and for duct we hardly ever sell fiber (old school) tape anymore. Mastic is generally used to seal coils and furnaces as well as boots to drywall. Search Polyken 367 or Hardcast 1402.
As an FYI the tabs on that short straight piece of duct were used for a "tap" as in you slip the tabs into the duct (or plywood in this case) and fold them over and you have a duct connection. I find it ironic you cut the tabs off that are meant to be pounded over (which is easier) so you could pound over the duct section. At the end of the day it works but figured i would try and help future you out.
If you want the weatherstripping or duct tape to stick well to raw wood a good trick is to coat it with a good. Coat of rubber or (contact) cement and let it dry then apply the other adhesive surface to it We used to use it to apply The foil tape to irregular surfaces on porous things like cork and homosote boards that were often attached as removable panels with heavy duty Velcro on reception desks often those panels were spaced on a desk as “tack boards “ so the user could. Push pins into them to hang notes or whatever they chose ? Generally the panels were covered with a textile to. Cover the board an to add to its appearance in nearly 20 years of using that method we had no failure to the best of my knowledge. And that was used on millions of dollars. Worth of architectural woodworking In the field we often used 3M spray adhesive. To make it faster to apply in our shop we. Did have contact cement spray rigs attached to 55 gallon drums set up in a specific spray booth area to ventilate fumes and control overspray as we used that process for veneer and HPDL also
With a box that big it would seem that perhaps one of those dust collection system filter bags--- e.g., POWERTEC 70001 Dust Collector Bag, 20" x 31", 1 Micron Filter--- could be put inside, inverted, with the exhaust above the bag and dust inside falling to the floor of a section below a panel with a hole in it into which the mouth of the bag is fit. So the inlet would be to the lower section. See "baghouse" on wikipedia for drawings of industrial-sized units.
Muy practico y al tenerlo cerca de la máquina no tenemos tanta perdida de carga. Para limpiar el filtro muchas maquinas incorporar un martillo o una es céntrica para golpear lo y q así caiga el polvo. Aunque creo q lo mejor es un ciclón q no necesita filtro, pero necesitas tener altura para la recogida del material.
Great idea and project but, dang it, now I have to interrupt my woodworking projects to make one just like it (my regular dust collection system just does not cut it but, I think a collector like yours is the answer).
Have you ever thought of throwing back a part of the air inside the saw? Just turn the impeller outlet appropriately and you are done. In this way you would be able to move all the chips that stops in the corners far from the suction hole. in all cases I would lower the height of the box, so I could cover the engine: mechanically and electrically potentially dangerous. For the different voltages I recommend a three-phase cable with neutral so you can make the necessary distribution simply with domino terminals at an irrelevant cost: with a good neutral calculated for the 100 V electric motor, you do not have problems of different powers ciao from italy!
All electric distribution lines are a three-phase system and whose voltage is 110v between any phase and the neutral and 220V between any two phases, here in Europe the voltages are 230V and 400V but the principle is the same. When your electric contract provides for the three-phase supply you automatically have both values available in your shed
I may have said this before (I'm old) I wish youtube would add a feature where you could instantly show everyone of the creator's replies to comments, I enjoy most of Matthias responses.
You can have a switch that turns on both the saw and the collector by connecting one of the phases used by the saw to the collector, onlf caveat is you have to make sure neutral and phase are wired correctly to the outlets and that you're using a 120V plug with the wider neutral plug
Pull a 110v off the 220v. If the existing double pole receptacle is protected by a double pole 15 or 20 Amp breaker then you can safely tap off the conductors at the junction box to fed other 120 V outlets.
It would be cool to add some kind of rotating brush under the blade to agitate the sawdust and send it all into the dust collector so you don't get buildup. Another idea: using a high power LED array and a black background to see dust motes and check for leaks in filters.
+Matthias Wandel Instead of going to the trouble of building a cyclone to go in front of the filter could you just put a baffle in the box? Not a vertical baffle but an almost entirely horizontal one extending maybe 3/4 of the way across the box. About 4 inches or so below the filter? Or at leas the end of the baffle next to the the inlet would be about 4 inches below the filter, and the other end of it away from the inlet angled down to maybe about 6 inches below the filter. Just something to slow down and divert the air enough that hopefully most of the larger particles fall out. But still leaves decent flow for the dust.
i use in my shop a master slave switch to start automaticly my vac for all of my mashines, but if you use this dust collector only for your tablesaw, you could wire directly to the tablesaw. sorry for se great english ;-) with greetings from austria
I would hang dust collector engine outside of shop wall. Run some metal duct work above head through wall, few out takes with flexible hose equipped with some valve so you can choose which tool "suck" most dust and build some small shed or container for exhaust port dust. That way ALL dust would go outside and no need to inhale all small particles that passed filter.
What about a baffle angled down slightly just to get the big shavings going down and away from the filters? Maybe something like a 30 degree down angle?
Lee Valley made a dust collector attachment for a hand plane for April Fool's a few years back. You should be able to find the video demonstration of it on their site.
Hey Matthias, you don't need to set up a relay box depending on the switch you have on the saw. If the switch is DPDT for both the hots for the 220, you should be able to tie into one of the hots on one side of the switch and a neutral potential on the saw to power your collector. If the switch is not DPDT then the collector will always be powered since one hot will always be connected to the circuitry. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken here.
Yes, I did that earlier, but there's no neutral, so I hooked it up to ground instead, which wasn't the best either. And this one consumes much more power, so really not the best idea.
Perfect example of building on the fly and having to make modifications after the fact...guilty of that myself from time to time. Maybe Sketch-Up plans ahead of time with measurements etc... would help you out especially with the roller issue that took extra time..but over all that thing sucks....LOL
would be interesting to see if the pressure drop due to dust built up on the filter our-weights the pressure drop of a cyclone in the medium run. (I am def in love with cyclones atm, soo tired of filter cleaning ;) )
+Matthias Wendel, with the inlet hole that high up and close to the filter, wouldn't it be an idea to have an downward deflector just on the inside ? not straight downward, just enough so that debris not flying straight up to the filter when it enters the box. The airflow shouldn't be affected much by such a small deflection.
The 240V is really just +120 on one side, -120V on the other and a ground. You should be able to grab just one side for 120V, but you’ll need a neutral.
i think that a cyclone will be a much efficient option in this application, though it's complicated to build it from wood.. dimension for that type of flow are not a concern ..
mechanical engineer here; is there a simple way to make a bellmouth fitting between the hose and box? straight fittings have high pressure drop, and performance would be better with a bellmouth. I appreciate that you can also just throw more power at it, and a bellmouth might be hard to make.
Could you perhaps place baffles inside staggering them to stop or at least minimize dust getting to the filter. They should not interfere with the airflow and turn down the input pipe directing particles to the base. Or maybe use a liquid style separator like the oil style air filters on cat bulldozers
Why don't you make a universal dustcollectionsystem, for all your devices? I would be getting crazy if I had this amount of collections, filters, screens, etc had to maintain. I think The amount of time you use to maintain all these, you could build one big one with all this finetuned. Maybe if you use electric valves who switch automatically on/off, by turning the device on/off it also is more comfortable to work with.
Hi Matthias, pretty nice dustcollector you've built there! Have you considered adding something like a 'rumble' feature to the holder of the filter element, so that you can shake off any loose saw dust?
Nice build, but: i realy wouldn't be comfortable with that uninsulated motor so close to the metal frame of your tablesaw. Maybe ad a small casing for that motor.
Is the 240v one or two phase power? If it's one phase I would honestly just buy a 1:2 transformer and run the fan off that instead of building some relay contraption and having to run two different power cables to the saw, if it's two phase you can probably just tap one of the phases with neutral and get 120v that way, although I don't really know what the effect will be on the remaining phase. Excellent video as always Matthias.
It’s split phase in North America. The problem is the NEMA 6-20R outlet that he is using won’t have that neutral. If the box is wired with a neutral, then he could just swap the outlet, but it might not be.
Thanks for the explanation, I'm not really familiar with north america's power stuff. In europe we just pull single-phase 230v out of the wall or 2 phase 230v/400v for residential applications and 3 phase 400v/690v for industrial applications.
We have a bit of a dog's breakfast, but it's quite flexible. In Canada, most homes are on 120 V split-phase, effectively 2 phases 180° apart, 240 V between the phases. Most businesses are on 120 V/208 V three phase. In commercial and industrial installations, 347 V/600 V three phase is also quite common, especially for lighting circuits. But you'll also see 277 V/480 V stuff too because that is the standard in the US, and that stuff invariable spills over the border. There is a matrix of receptacles and plugs used with all of these, mostly because of historical reasons, and nobody can be bothered with the expense of changing it all. USA+Canada+Mexico is a fairly large population (489.49 million peeps) all operating under the one system. I worked in a datacenter, and it was very common for customers to request something like a L14-20P (20A, 120-240 split phase) outlet, only to have their equipment show up and discover they actually wanted L18-20P (20A, 208V three phase). If you google them, you'll see that they are almost identical to each other, but completely incompatible. Kept the electricians busy at least.
Would tacking down the weather stripping solve the "sticky" issue or would that potentially cause a failure? Could always use more construction adhesive ;)
From the video's end, it seems that the top of the motor may be interfering with the fence mechanism, but then again might be just a filming angle thing ...
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Your ingenuity with clamps still amazes me after all these years, don't know like 7 years now.
Matthias, thank you for not attacking your viewers for not watching your videos. I watch your videos because you're an interesting person that thinks differently.
I still sorely need to build a tool wall organizer like yours... and now I need a dedicated table saw dust collector too?! You’re the man Matthias.
John will be proud of your for using that construction adhesive
Always interesting to see how you retrofit your machines with scrap parts. Looking forward to the follow-up video.
Mattias, I appreciate your problem solving! Two little details of this video caught my eye: I like the simplicity of the indexing screw/hole arrangement, and the hold-down springs are really nice, too. I could imagine using a spring to hold the lid down, but my solution would have been to use a cup hook on the spring eye - your solution is much easier to use!
I learn at least three things from each of your videos, and I am a builder by trade. Bravo.
You shouldn't use construction adhesive while wearing long sleeves. The sleeve could get caught in the joint you are sealing, and you'd be stuck wearing the box everywhere you go while wearing the jacket. That or you'll have to take the jacket off and have to leave it hanging on your dust collector forever. Love your videos, you are a true genius, despite your cavalier flaunting of long sleeve construction adhesive safety best practices.
I was hoping someone would bring this up. This happened to my mother when she was carrying me in her womb. They wouldn’t let her in the hospital with a dust collector attached to her sleeve, so she was forced to give birth in a cabinet factory.
This is a problem at airports as well because the collector counts as a carry-on.
it violates every page of the european dust collector safety act of 1986 which is why home-built dust collectors are illegal in the EU now. you'd never see such an unsafe thing in the EU!!!
SpoonsJTD everyone knows the story of 'Dusty John' he will go down in history as an example of bad construction adhesive etiquette
I guess its better than getting your bare arm glued to the dust extractor.
They might call him The Winter Woodworker.
Longing, Rusted, Seventeen, Daybreak, Furnace, Nine...
I think you are one of the smartest guys on TH-cam, possibly the smartest. Very methodical.
Fridays don't quite feel right without one of Matthias's videos
I am astonished that all these casters turned out the same height, in the complete absence of anything resembling a depth stop.
Starting Friday off with a fresh Wandel video... gonna be a good weekend!
A lot of work but in the end I think you have what you need once you get the relay box built so it will all work at the same time. You have a lot of great ideas for solving some of your problems you encountered. Great build Matthias.
My first thought was the construction adhesive mentions were for John Heisz's reaction :) I like the idea of a unit for the table saw though.
Stay tuned to Heisz channel to see some threaded dowels made on a screw advance box joint jig! lol
I never understoof why he likes that stuff so much. But I also haven´t used it myself.
Max Maker It has its applications.
Its applications are in construction. And it goes bad after a few years.
The main use is on joists under sub floors. But they make application specific adhesives for that now.
byw yup the subfloor adhesive is some crazy strong stuff, use it weekly framing houses, and every once and a while I come home with an extra case as they almost send enough to change the tube every 5 sheets
I use a similar collector box for metal chips. It was inspired by some of your other dust collectors. My shop vac pulls the chips into the box and they fall out into a bucket inside. I have no need for a filter as their is no metal "dust". It keeps my work space a lot cleaner than blowing metal chips all over the place with a air hose.
That's brilliant how you inset the casters!!!!!
Love your videos and especially the dust extractors.
You never disappoint with your videos. Thank you for sharing. Mike
He puts things together so quickly
i can see the improvement on your ideas since the last time you made the dust collector. like the window so you can see inside when it is full genius idea.
Glad you're still making build videos!
I like these dust extractor videos and watched them all. But I don’t think they are very convenient. They take a lot of time to build and they are bulky. You also need to clean out the filters. I just bough one of those plastic cyclones for 50$ and attached it to a bucket. Then my shopvac sucks up all the dust. I put the shopvac outside to limit the noise (to my neighbors). Works very well and the shopvac filter is never full. I also layed down sewage pipes throughout my shop to extend the range of the vacuum. The small diameter makes this less bulky.
those plastic cyclones - it's obscene how they cost more than a shopvac! And shopvacs are super loud. And the hoses and bucket and all that - just not very conenient!
I don´t find it obscene. They are built in smaller quantaties, so they must cost more. The dust collection for the Panto Router costes 139$ and is also just a piece of plastic (with bristles).
You need hoses anyway, no matter which system you use. The bucket? Costs 10$ and requires no assembly. Yeah the noise is bad. Thats the only issues I have with them.
Yes, you're right. And if you use a Festool shop vac with cyclone it is effective and almost silent. And a normal dust collection system works even better (much better). But if Mathias had a normal job and bought a dust collection system what would we watch??
Thats why I said that I enjoy his videos. I wouldn´t recommend building one though.
Max Maker who sought your recommendation?
Construction Adhesive! John would be so proud.
It’s always great when you can revisit an old project and improve the design. Great job.
Look forward to the relay box video. Thanks for sharing
Kettle Vale me too, probably even more than this one!
Me Three.
You always have clever and practical ways of solving problems. I always learn something new! Thanks, much appreciated.
I don’t care if it’s gears, furniture, dust collection, or if he decides to blog about makeup. When Matthias posts a video, I click. And I’m never disappointed 👍
You and john should do another vs video my favourite was wen he fell through his cupboard shelf that was held up with biscuits
That was a neat thing with the spring to hold the lid down Matthias!
I thought a lot about a clever mechanism, then opened my springs drawer and saw these long ones, and realized, it could be so much simpler!
I really liked this too - so simple and efficient! Love your videos as always!
So simple and functional :) ॐ
Those longs springs are great. At some stage an old chair was destroyed and somebody had the forethought to save all the long springs. They come in very handy for various projects. I use one to keep a small gate closed and it helps keep the sheep out of one of the sheds. Cheers, David.
Have the dust collector use one leg of the power for the saw. When you start the saw, it powers the vacuum as well.
Love your projects. Keep it up
Great job on the extractor!! I also watched the video on how you made it auto-start and stop!
How dust collector videos are my favorite
I think even a simple down or side-facing elbow in the box might help with the large shavings.
I love watching how you solve problems with your projects :-) (wheels ) ( spring )
A bonus feature: You can sit your kids in front of the plexiglass window and tell them it's a TV show.
That window is total OCD delight.
I'm glad you built a window into this one, always seemed like an obvious thing to have.
If you don't need to remove the filter, I suggest using mastic tape. The adhesive is far superior. I manage a Baker Distributing and for duct we hardly ever sell fiber (old school) tape anymore. Mastic is generally used to seal coils and furnaces as well as boots to drywall. Search Polyken 367 or Hardcast 1402.
You ARE a mad scientist! No doubt! Love your videos, thank you!
I find loctite wood adhesive is a great alternative to the traditional construction adhesive. Much less sticky and much easier to clean up.
John would be proud! He loves construction adhesive lol can’t wait for you guys to do another colab lll
Can't wait to see part 2 with the relay box Matthias
I know it's simple, but that window is beautiful.
As an FYI the tabs on that short straight piece of duct were used for a "tap" as in you slip the tabs into the duct (or plywood in this case) and fold them over and you have a duct connection. I find it ironic you cut the tabs off that are meant to be pounded over (which is easier) so you could pound over the duct section. At the end of the day it works but figured i would try and help future you out.
If you want the weatherstripping or duct tape to stick well to raw wood a good trick is to coat it with a good. Coat of rubber or (contact) cement and let it dry then apply the other adhesive surface to it We used to use it to apply The foil tape to irregular surfaces on porous things like cork and homosote boards that were often attached as removable panels with heavy duty Velcro on reception desks often those panels were spaced on a desk as “tack boards “ so the user could. Push pins into them to hang notes or whatever they chose ? Generally the panels were covered with a textile to. Cover the board an to add to its appearance in nearly 20 years of using that method we had no failure to the best of my knowledge. And that was used on millions of dollars. Worth of architectural woodworking In the field we often used 3M spray adhesive. To make it faster to apply in our shop we. Did have contact cement spray rigs attached to 55 gallon drums set up in a specific spray booth area to ventilate fumes and control overspray as we used that process for veneer and HPDL also
With a box that big it would seem that perhaps one of those dust collection system filter bags--- e.g., POWERTEC 70001 Dust Collector Bag, 20" x 31", 1 Micron Filter--- could be put inside, inverted, with the exhaust above the bag and dust inside falling to the floor of a section below a panel with a hole in it into which the mouth of the bag is fit. So the inlet would be to the lower section. See "baghouse" on wikipedia for drawings of industrial-sized units.
Muy practico y al tenerlo cerca de la máquina no tenemos tanta perdida de carga. Para limpiar el filtro muchas maquinas incorporar un martillo o una es céntrica para golpear lo y q así caiga el polvo. Aunque creo q lo mejor es un ciclón q no necesita filtro, pero necesitas tener altura para la recogida del material.
Great idea and project but, dang it, now I have to interrupt my woodworking projects to make one just like it (my regular dust collection system just does not cut it but, I think a collector like yours is the answer).
Have you ever thought of throwing back a part of the air inside the saw? Just turn the impeller outlet appropriately and you are done.
In this way you would be able to move all the chips that stops in the corners far from the suction hole.
in all cases I would lower the height of the box, so I could cover the engine: mechanically and electrically potentially dangerous.
For the different voltages I recommend a three-phase cable with neutral so you can make the necessary distribution simply with domino terminals at an irrelevant cost: with a good neutral calculated for the 100 V electric motor, you do not have problems of different powers
ciao from italy!
zola tanaffa I was thinking what a pain having 110v and 240v in the same shed, but I spose my shed has 240v and 400v and no problems.
All electric distribution lines are a three-phase system and whose voltage is 110v between any phase and the neutral and 220V between any two phases, here in Europe the voltages are 230V and 400V but the principle is the same.
When your electric contract provides for the three-phase supply you automatically have both values available in your shed
I may have said this before (I'm old) I wish youtube would add a feature where you could instantly show everyone of the creator's replies to comments, I enjoy most of Matthias responses.
So THAT's where John's last tube of construction adhesive went...
Great video Mathias. I always learn something new.
Love the way your mind ticks. 👍
Awesome video matthias, very informative and helpful
You can have a switch that turns on both the saw and the collector by connecting one of the phases used by the saw to the collector, onlf caveat is you have to make sure neutral and phase are wired correctly to the outlets and that you're using a 120V plug with the wider neutral plug
Pull a 110v off the 220v. If the existing double pole receptacle is protected by a double pole 15 or 20 Amp breaker then you can safely tap off the conductors at the junction box to fed other 120 V outlets.
I hurt my back scrounging plywood from the garbage, i told my wife it was Mattias's fault. Its nice having a scape goat!
It would be cool to add some kind of rotating brush under the blade to agitate the sawdust and send it all into the dust collector so you don't get buildup.
Another idea: using a high power LED array and a black background to see dust motes and check for leaks in filters.
Thank you for this. So many good ideas to glean from this video.
+Matthias Wandel
Instead of going to the trouble of building a cyclone to go in front of the filter could you just put a baffle in the box? Not a vertical baffle but an almost entirely horizontal one extending maybe 3/4 of the way across the box. About 4 inches or so below the filter? Or at leas the end of the baffle next to the the inlet would be about 4 inches below the filter, and the other end of it away from the inlet angled down to maybe about 6 inches below the filter. Just something to slow down and divert the air enough that hopefully most of the larger particles fall out. But still leaves decent flow for the dust.
Luv your videos and your Canadian accent.
B4 Dirk wie immer eine top Arbeit. Danke für deine Videos. KLASSE
looking forward to the relay box
i use in my shop a master slave switch to start automaticly my vac for all of my mashines, but if you use this dust collector only for your tablesaw, you could wire directly to the tablesaw. sorry for se great english ;-) with greetings from austria
Great job .. I like your work ..you inspire me to do some wood work..thank you
Eventually Matthias is going to get fed up with individual dust collectors, and build a GIANT collector to connect to a shop-wide vacuum system.
I know right? "One dust collector to rule them all..."
All you need is to have a neutral line to your saw, then the main switch can be used for both the saw and dust collector motors.
I would hang dust collector engine outside of shop wall. Run some metal duct work above head through wall, few out takes with flexible hose equipped with some valve so you can choose which tool "suck" most dust and build some small shed or container for exhaust port dust.
That way ALL dust would go outside and no need to inhale all small particles that passed filter.
What I did was so much simpler! Plus not losing the heat in the process.
What about a baffle angled down slightly just to get the big shavings going down and away from the filters? Maybe something like a 30 degree down angle?
Make dust collector for hand drill!
krawacik3 dust collector dust collector
Isn't Matthias a dust collector collector?
Make another band saw too!
Lee Valley made a dust collector attachment for a hand plane for April Fool's a few years back. You should be able to find the video demonstration of it on their site.
lanswipe Comment of a year
for a shop piece it ended up being quite a pleasant design with the wheels and flanges. looks european
Hey Matthias, you don't need to set up a relay box depending on the switch you have on the saw. If the switch is DPDT for both the hots for the 220, you should be able to tie into one of the hots on one side of the switch and a neutral potential on the saw to power your collector. If the switch is not DPDT then the collector will always be powered since one hot will always be connected to the circuitry. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken here.
Yes, I did that earlier, but there's no neutral, so I hooked it up to ground instead, which wasn't the best either. And this one consumes much more power, so really not the best idea.
Change the cord and plugs to add a neutral! Cleanest and simplest solution.
Matthias Wandel aren't neutral and ground the same thing? Unless your ground wire is really thin.
EJ: No, if you sink any significant current to ground, then your "ground" will no longer be at 0V.
EJ Wu though they are connected at the panel, they are not the same thing.
Probably someone already comented that, but some rolers, or castors, on the top next to the motor could make for a good outfead support.
Don't you know that glue magically dries in a few seconds in videos??? ;-) Another enjoyable video!
Perfect example of building on the fly and having to make modifications after the fact...guilty of that myself from time to time. Maybe Sketch-Up plans ahead of time with measurements etc... would help you out especially with the roller issue that took extra time..but over all that thing sucks....LOL
Maybe some baffles in the lower box would drop out the larger particles.
The man is brilliant.
would be interesting to see if the pressure drop due to dust built up on the filter our-weights the pressure drop of a cyclone in the medium run. (I am def in love with cyclones atm, soo tired of filter cleaning ;) )
+Matthias Wendel, with the inlet hole that high up and close to the filter, wouldn't it be an idea to have an downward deflector just on the inside ?
not straight downward, just enough so that debris not flying straight up to the filter when it enters the box.
The airflow shouldn't be affected much by such a small deflection.
The 240V is really just +120 on one side, -120V on the other and a ground. You should be able to grab just one side for 120V, but you’ll need a neutral.
John Heisz approves of the construction adhesive.
Don’t forget the green paint when you are done
Also maybe put a directional inlet in the sawdust collection box?
i think that a cyclone will be a much efficient option in this application, though it's complicated to build it from wood.. dimension for that type of flow are not a concern ..
Three words, KREIG POCKET SCREWS, no waiting for glue to dry and they are very strong.
mechanical engineer here; is there a simple way to make a bellmouth fitting between the hose and box? straight fittings have high pressure drop, and performance would be better with a bellmouth.
I appreciate that you can also just throw more power at it, and a bellmouth might be hard to make.
Nice design and quiet! Looks like it sucks! Like the recessed casters.
Construction adhesive criticism....shots fired!
If the table saw motor can be wired for 120 or 240 just connect the blower fan across one of the 120v windings
I saw construction adhesive and looked through the comments for something John Heisz.
A baffle in the box may help keep bigger pieces from getting to the filter.
Could you perhaps place baffles inside staggering them to stop or at least minimize dust getting to the filter. They should not interfere with the airflow and turn down the input pipe directing particles to the base. Or maybe use a liquid style separator like the oil style air filters on cat bulldozers
maybe you could experiment using the venturi effect for a dust collector
Why don't you make a universal dustcollectionsystem, for all your devices? I would be getting crazy if I had this amount of collections, filters, screens, etc had to maintain. I think The amount of time you use to maintain all these, you could build one big one with all this finetuned. Maybe if you use electric valves who switch automatically on/off, by turning the device on/off it also is more comfortable to work with.
Hi Matthias, pretty nice dustcollector you've built there! Have you considered adding something like a 'rumble' feature to the holder of the filter element, so that you can shake off any loose saw dust?
I think you should use a 220v motor for your dust collector since it would work better with your table saw.
Nice build, but: i realy wouldn't be comfortable with that uninsulated motor so close to the metal frame of your tablesaw. Maybe ad a small casing for that motor.
Yeah, that's it, another little box. And Matthias adores boxes.
you could put a diode in series to make the 240 -> 120 drop.
Is the 240v one or two phase power?
If it's one phase I would honestly just buy a 1:2 transformer and run the fan off that instead of building some relay contraption and having to run two different power cables to the saw, if it's two phase you can probably just tap one of the phases with neutral and get 120v that way, although I don't really know what the effect will be on the remaining phase.
Excellent video as always Matthias.
It’s split phase in North America. The problem is the NEMA 6-20R outlet that he is using won’t have that neutral. If the box is wired with a neutral, then he could just swap the outlet, but it might not be.
Thanks for the explanation, I'm not really familiar with north america's power stuff.
In europe we just pull single-phase 230v out of the wall or 2 phase 230v/400v for residential applications and 3 phase 400v/690v for industrial applications.
We have a bit of a dog's breakfast, but it's quite flexible. In Canada, most homes are on 120 V split-phase, effectively 2 phases 180° apart, 240 V between the phases. Most businesses are on 120 V/208 V three phase. In commercial and industrial installations, 347 V/600 V three phase is also quite common, especially for lighting circuits. But you'll also see 277 V/480 V stuff too because that is the standard in the US, and that stuff invariable spills over the border.
There is a matrix of receptacles and plugs used with all of these, mostly because of historical reasons, and nobody can be bothered with the expense of changing it all. USA+Canada+Mexico is a fairly large population (489.49 million peeps) all operating under the one system. I worked in a datacenter, and it was very common for customers to request something like a L14-20P (20A, 120-240 split phase) outlet, only to have their equipment show up and discover they actually wanted L18-20P (20A, 208V three phase). If you google them, you'll see that they are almost identical to each other, but completely incompatible. Kept the electricians busy at least.
Would tacking down the weather stripping solve the "sticky" issue or would that potentially cause a failure?
Could always use more construction adhesive ;)
From the video's end, it seems that the top of the motor may be interfering with the fence mechanism, but then again might be just a filming angle thing ...