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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2022
- High quality PCB Services pcbway.com Join me in this 2 part series where I show you how I automate the main water valve in my apartment to be able to control it from HomeAssistant. This can be extremely useful in conjunction with water leak sensors to prevent extensive damage in case of a water leak by turning off the main water supply.
→3D models for servo clamp (step) voltlog.com/y/8bic6
→25KG Servo voltlog.com/y/fgwvq
→Water Valve Herz 1220111 voltlog.com/y/92b81
→Example Solenoid Valve voltlog.com/y/9pavq
→Example Motorized Ball Valve voltlog.com/y/g4x9n
→Example Tuya Wifi Valve Controller voltlog.com/y/h6f5p
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#Servo #Automation #WaterValve - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Since your valve turns 90° and the servo 180°, you could half the torque requirement of the servo (or the other way round increase the "reserves" in case the valve gets harder to turn with time). And it isn't hard to do either. Use the normal servo horn and print one for the valve that's about twice the length. Mount the servo to the side of the valve, so you can look onto the shaft of the servo as well as of the valve, like two clocks side by side. When the servo turns from 9 to 3, the valve turn from 10 to 1 (or 11 to 2 or something in between).
This also solves your other problem: you can easily access the valve for manual operation. You can even integrate the "knob" in the 3D part you print for the valve.
Looks like it should be pretty easy to get quite a bit of leverage using some bicycle gears and chain.
You gave me some ideas thanks.
A plumber once said that you should close and open a valve a few times in a row to keep it in a good shape. Repeat the procedure once per 3 months.
It's true, especially with hard water.
Yeah, a manual override will be a good idea and also a sensor to know the actual state of the valve
Good job 👏
Nice. I think the existing handle could be incorporated and allow manual override and not be too bulky. For meter reading I suspect you have heard of but just in case - jomjol AI on the edge esp32 meter reading project. I have tested it and works ok. It occasionally gets it wrong.
nice very helpful
Any link to part 2?
Nice project! Have been thinking about similar project and this brought this up again. Only problem being that I do not have power nearby and have to figure out how to get it get it from somewhere.
Luckily I have an alarm coms wire in that area (visible in the video) it's like a 6x24 AWG or something like that which should be good enough for me to run 12V to my system. But if that's not available a different approach might be needed for battery power, like dropping wifi in favor of zigbee for low power usage.
very good video .... there would be the possibility of uploading the cad modeling.
I know you said that changing the water pipes is not an option but the most simple solution for an manual emergency valve is to had another valve on the input side of the water supply and leave it unmodified. If any time you need to close the water supply quickly in case of an emergency you'll always have a manual and the automatic/remote shut off.
Having a second valve would be nice..
Do they make a servo motor like those stepper motors with the drive shaft that runs out both sides of the motor? Then you could just have a handle that can be connected to that for manually closing or opening the valve.
Nice not-only-electronic project! For the manual override, I was wondering if it would work to drill a diametrical hole through the adapter piece plus make a long slot in the U-shaped part, so that it would be possible to turn the valve by plugging any medium-sized screwdriver would work (as a lever). That would allow also to manually 'feel' the valve stiffness, without dismantling it from its operational state.
I would also need to remove the servo first because turning with the servo attached would imply even greater force needed.
Do you power off the servo after using it. Or it keeps energized? Does it still work after this many months if it kept energized for ever?
if it is a quarter turn knob do a bigger cutaway on top or bottom spanning to the left/right ,
then on you adapter, print a lever on just one side so there is enough room for the lever to move tho the cutaway, if you can imagine, between 3 and 6 pm, make the lever reasonably long so it has enought force to to overcome the servos gear torque.then you get a manual control lever and it will fit in the same space
Yep, I think you've got it...cheers.
These are 3D printed parts, my first attempt in PLA. Having those wide slots in what is the main support for the servo would mean a very wobbly system. I would have to switch to some harder material or just make the whole thing thicker but it is something to consider for a future revision if I don't come up with a better way.
@@voltlog if you make the servo mount part a 4 sided square, that would make up for the slot, and it wouldnt be able to twist either. you can have small gap on the end for the servo ears.
@@grimninja2004 thanks, that's a good idea!
I did basically the same but used an old cordless drill (you find plenty of them in every scrapyard, because once the battery died they get thrown away). In this way i have plenty of torque, and even an overload ratchet mechanism. Of course this needs a little more space ...
Clever usage of an old drill 👍
I tried something similar for watering my greenhouse, but the servos i had available were not strong enough, So i went ordering solenoid walves instead stronger servos.
That's definitely an option but I would like to avoid messing with the installation.
Sure. In your case, i would have done the same. Total different situation with a new installation in the greenhouse, where you can move things around as you prefer.
Very nice,
Wanted to use something like this for some brewing Equipment, but because of space constrains I am useing the solenoid type valve. But this needs to be tested further.
For your problem with the mechanical lever, i would use either something like on lathe with powerfeed, where the wheel is disenaged with a spring. You have to partially cut out one side of your clamp and let a "single end lever" either rest upright or let it dangeling down.
Or partially cut out the clamp on the right side, model a hex on the outside of your connection piece and place the matching hex wrench somewhere in your technical space.
I would probably want to disengage the servo somehow, because turning the valve with the servo attached would be difficult.
@@voltlog Maybe split the connection piece in two and connect them with an outer ring, that is dented, so its not gonna disengage itself. Something like the "Baliflex clutch". The mentioned hex"nut" is there where the Baliflex-Clutch has its grubscrew.
@@Hassla Thanks! that's a nice idea!
Good idea. Another problem with solenoids is that they consume power constantly at open state.
Yup, there is that tradeoff...
There are latching solenoids which don't have this problem
@@captainbeefheart8866 Cannot find any on Aliexpress etc
Use a new electric ball valve motor and adapt it to your existing valve. Be sure to get one that defaults to off. If you have a problem remove your quick release pins and the existing red wing knob can operate as normal.
using a retrofit device to work the manual lever is the best because.
1. it retrofits no need to design an interface to the valve that requires removal of knob.
2. most important should the electronics malfunction or get hacked into you have a manual means of control you disconnect the actuator motor and turn the valve manually.
if the valve is on the city side of the fixture then you will have to call in the water co to replace the valve and you being in an apartment you have to get permission from landlord unless you are the landlord.
if you can install a valve on the owner side of the fixture you can then install what ever valve you want again as long as you have permission from landlord or you are the landlord.
An option for an emergency cutoff would be to attach a thin cable to the new valve knob and wrap one turn around the shaft then add a small grab handle to the free end of the cable. Then with power off on the servo it should be possible to pull on the handle and rotate the valve the quarter turn to shut it off. It will require more force than the original valve handle but it should not be too much for an emergency.
Thanks for the suggestion, that could work.
for an emergency manual closing just add a second valve
I was going to suggest you cycle the valve once a month. The city i work in has a guy that goes around with a device that does that with valves in the streets. The device measures the torque needed to open and close the valve so they know if the have to work on the valve
Yup, I'll definitely implement that type of automation.
can i order this device complete with arm ?
I don't know if there is servo with 2 shafts, it could be the solution to your problem
Put a hinge on one side of the servo bracket assembly and an over-center cabinet latch on the other side. Putting it on and taking it off would only take a couple of seconds. Drill a hole in one wing of the red valve handle and hang it by a string next to the valve. If you need manual control you can unlatch the servo clamp, pull off the drive adapter and use the handle. The handle will work just by pushing it against the valve stem; its retaining nut isn't required. Or, simply hang a small metal or wood bar near the valve that will fit in the same recesses of the drive adapter where the servo arm sits now.
I'm liking this idea, if I keep the current servo position I will try to design a hinge mechanism. Thanks!
@@voltlog If you don't want to screw a metal hinge to your bracket halves, you could 3D print a few offset hinge bosses on each one with small diameter holes for a pin. I've had good luck using a length of coat hanger wire as a hinge pin. Put a 90deg bend at the top end of the pin so it can't fall through; that bend also offers a good handle for pin removal.
@@FlyingShotsman Thanks! an offset hinge designed in the model was what I had in mind, I could just slide a steel shaft pin from an old mechanical assembly. I can have the bottom part of the hinge closed so the pin doesn't fall.
with a bit more extra work you could mount a small chain or toothed belt onto the valve adaptor itself, and then use the short belt to create a new secondary shaft added to your existing mechanism. but in a different position that then be clear the clamp etc and avoid the other access problems due to the limited space
then you have another shaft onto which you must decide how to put your manual override lever or turning device. but you do not need the turning thing always attached. it could be just a connector stub, on to which you can more quickly insert into a temporary key when it is needed in an emergency. in other words a detachable handle
the advandage of this approach is that you never have to remove the original motorized device and mounting. which comex at the cost of some extra complexity. a more complicated design. but you have limited space to work with
another option might be to make the coupler include a 90 degree gear, so that the servo can go sideways. instead of the hole shaft being inline an a straight extension of the original valve. since the confined space
there a probably a few other different mechanical solutions too. for transferring the drive more creatively in other ways. ie with wires or steel cables and such. but of course you do not want to obstruct or interfere with the other things in the rest of that compartment
Yup, several options of doing this I just can't decide which one would give me the best results with the least amount of effort 😂
@@johncoops6897 Installing a solenoid valve would certainly solve a lot of issues but create some new ones: Do you go with a NO or NC type? Going with NC, has protection in case of power failure but comes with continuous power draw (15-20W for the ones I've checked, which is crazy!).
I can hardly turn my main valve with both hands. 😅
Also, those powerul servos are quite pricey.
👍
I really like your ideas and creativity a lot, but in this case I don't think it is a very good idea...
The torque needed to close the valve can become a lot higher when it is not closed for some weeks or even days or hours.
In case of an emergency, top priority is that you can easily close it by hand (not depending on electricity or connectivity) without any extra obstacles.
When you have flooding; it can be in any location of the house, so it's difficult to have sensors everywhere.
Closing central water when away might also have side-effects for central heating/cooling and when accidentally closed could ruin your washing-machine/dishwasher etc.
Again the tinkering idea is a lot of fun, but practically I would considering this troublsome at least ...
Beside this, all the kudos for a great channel; I'm a big fan :-)
I would have to disagree because the concerns you mentioned are not an actual representation of what could happen, let me explain:
1. As discussed in the video I will be implementing an automation to prevent the valve from getting stuck. Not implementing an automation at all doesn't bring any advantage as the valve would get stuck if not used anyway.
2. As discussed in the video I am looking for ways to implement a manual override.
3. Not having sensors everywhere in the house is not a reason not to install them in places where you can and protect the house using the available sensors.
4. Turning off the water supply has absolutely no side-effect for central heating, washing machine, dishwasher as all of these just pause and report an error when there is no water. As you can imagine the water supply can also be turned off for many other reasons, outside of your control so the equipment is designed to take that into account.
A) It may not all be "crust" but water pressure itself providing some resistance. B) These type of valves have limited lifespan I would recommend not turning it of and on every night.
The servo metallic rotary threads being connected to the plastic adapter threads is going to fail, it will mess up the plastic threads over time since the threads are so small and these valves requires a lot of torque. Wouldn't implement that for home plumbing lol Gears are much better, worth the time. If the servo metallic rotary had larger threads connected to the plastic adapter would be ideal.
Very vary bad idea . No manual control you don't have a second valve for manual cut off . In case of power failure how you can cut the valve?
It looks easy enough to remove the servo mount.
As discussed in the video I am looking for ways to implement a manual override.