You made this look easy, like a walk in the park - I mean for us Discovery drivers. For a Toyota driver, this video will cause major heartburn and suicide thoughts. I like the idea of using bolts instead of the reverse nuts. Looking forward to do this on Veras Discovery. Just waiting for the turbo to fail now... Christian
Oh man toyota owners would pay someone else to do it I reckon haha Honestly wasn't to bad I reckon it would be more man hours pulling the body to do it then to just attacking it from the side and underneath Cant wait to see your tool that you make for the turbo nuts !!
well done on the video , i did the same process, made myself some new tools in the process, but all in all, was a good learning experience , thank you for the Video
Great job Shane! Loved the video! Detailed and great image quality! Quick question, I had paper towels sucked in through the air intake by mistake (I know...), My guess is they stopped at the turbo. Is it too tight to unfit the inlet pipe to the turbo behind the wheel arch? Is it possible that the paper towel was smashed through the turbo and ended up at the IC? The car barely starts and after a few tries it idles at less than 500rpm. It's clearly choked on air. Appreciate your experience and a tip on where to begin!!! Thx!
Morning 🍻 * Ryan not Shane * 🤣 your thinking of Shane's shed I think haha Don't try and start your car any more !! If your lucky it has gotten chocked up at the smaller inlet to the turbo. I've had to pull a rag from another person's landrover right at the turbo before as they forgot also. I couldn't really get the whole pipe out but could pull it forward enough from the turbo to get the rag out. It's a pain in the butt and will take a few hours but is do able
@bautiramada haha noice I pulled the wheel plastic guarding for wheel well You don't have to but pulling the upper control arm gives you heaps of room but is an option Once those heat shields are out there is x2 10mm nuts on the left side of that plastic intake that you unbolt to be able to lever it forward enough
Amazing work brother. I really al all the effort you made to share it with us. Would you mind sharing the specs of the bolt you used to fixed the turbo? 🎉❤🎉🎉
Great job getting that filmed in a confined space, turned out really good. Quick question, I briefly spied an obd2 gauge when you started Stu - haven't seen one that looked like that before, any details? (Im familiar with scangauge and ultragauge)
I got it from scangauges Australian Super handy as you can watch heaps more things at once I've got boost, engine oil temp, coolant temp, speedo based on gps, boost pressure and a couple of other things setup on there pretty handy to monitor whilst driving Havbt read the manual though so don't no how to use it for codes hahah just as my monitoring device but apparently it does both
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I generally use my IID tool for monitoring temps while towing, but it would be nice to have something dedicated for that purpose. That shits fairly cheap now days too.
@@Shanes_Shed yeah was only $115 from memory but I picked this one because the obd2 plug is super slimline and doesn't really hang down probly about a 3rd of the height of the iid plug which I reckon a clumsy bugger like me would stap it off if I left it plugged in while driving Still havnt bought one yet but definetly need to
let's be honest, landrover could of made it a lot easier, I always wondered about making a stainless crossover pipe aswell. could you make them easy to remove by taping threads on the manifold instead of using nuts and bolts?
@@OUTBACKDiscovery but then 2 top ones could be tapped and given bolts, you could then un do then easy from wheel well. Part of me want to cut my fender a tap for better access and put rubbt mat infront
@@ShockWaveGamings234fg321f 🤣 please don't hahah would be easy but you would always regret it haha You can drop rear trans cross member and angle engine down for better access and then unbolt the front 2 body mounts and raise the front body up 30mm which gives you just enough room to get the cross over pipe out And then just remove studs and use bolts as the threads already there 🍻
Mate im so glad im doing body off to change mine ..all that work and no one sees it lol ...great job keen to findout if its pickup is better than before it went bust 👏
I definetly noticed a difference in low end torque in mine The job wasn't as bad as I thought once was annoying having to cut the studs to get it out though Definetly recommend using bolts instead of studs on the top turbo to exhaust manifold bolts made life a heap easier
Hello Mate, i was having a Engine System Fault message on my dashboard so i decided to remove the Turbo on my 2005 Range Rover Sport 2.7TDV6 and cleaned the internal Turbo Vanes to ensure free movement of the Turbo Actuator Arm. Before removal of the Turbo i was getting error code P132B-00 - Turbo/Supercharger boost control A performance (permanent), now after cleaning up the Turbo, i also decided to reAdjust the adjustment screw settings for the actuator arm to have more room for movement. After re installing the Turbo back in the car the Engine System Fault error was gone and there were no more error lights on my dashboard. I am now getting DTC P138E Turbocharger boost control position sensor A - minimum/maximum stop performance with no error lights on my dashboard. I am also experiencing power loss on high rpm with these DTC's "B1B02-28 Low Frequency Coil" and "B1C57-14 Unused relay drive". Could you please help me solve the problem with my car. Thanks
Hi did you ever fix your one ? I have that p132b -00 turbo supercharger boost control A !!!! turbo actuator is free and it’s only happening when you power it up a big hill, not Smokey at all and I smoke tested it and no split hoses or visual signs of any leaks, if the rod is free can the veins still be sticky ? Or once the rod is free it’s all good ? I have that unused relay drive fault but I don’t think they’re connected
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You made this look easy, like a walk in the park - I mean for us Discovery drivers. For a Toyota driver, this video will cause major heartburn and suicide thoughts. I like the idea of using bolts instead of the reverse nuts. Looking forward to do this on Veras Discovery. Just waiting for the turbo to fail now... Christian
Oh man toyota owners would pay someone else to do it I reckon haha
Honestly wasn't to bad I reckon it would be more man hours pulling the body to do it then to just attacking it from the side and underneath
Cant wait to see your tool that you make for the turbo nuts !!
Holy shit that sounds amazing with no exhaust 😱
Bloody oath made me smile like I was 16 again
well done on the video , i did the same process, made myself some new tools in the process, but all in all, was a good learning experience , thank you for the Video
Home made tooling definetly made the job possible that's for sure hopefully neither of us have to do it again haha
Thanks for the comment
Great job and it sounded awesome 😁🤣
Well done doing the turbo I've watched your program when you did your gearbox sump so I've done mine all OK thank for info
Glad it's helped Graham howd you disco drive after the trans service
Great job Shane! Loved the video! Detailed and great image quality! Quick question, I had paper towels sucked in through the air intake by mistake (I know...), My guess is they stopped at the turbo. Is it too tight to unfit the inlet pipe to the turbo behind the wheel arch? Is it possible that the paper towel was smashed through the turbo and ended up at the IC? The car barely starts and after a few tries it idles at less than 500rpm. It's clearly choked on air. Appreciate your experience and a tip on where to begin!!! Thx!
Morning 🍻 * Ryan not Shane * 🤣 your thinking of Shane's shed I think haha
Don't try and start your car any more !! If your lucky it has gotten chocked up at the smaller inlet to the turbo.
I've had to pull a rag from another person's landrover right at the turbo before as they forgot also.
I couldn't really get the whole pipe out but could pull it forward enough from the turbo to get the rag out.
It's a pain in the butt and will take a few hours but is do able
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Thx bro! Ryan I meant 😁😁! I also asked Shane about it 🤩🤩🙌🏻🙌🏻 Cheers
@bautiramada haha noice
I pulled the wheel plastic guarding for wheel well
You don't have to but pulling the upper control arm gives you heaps of room but is an option
Once those heat shields are out there is x2 10mm nuts on the left side of that plastic intake that you unbolt to be able to lever it forward enough
@@OUTBACKDiscovery You’re the man dude!!! That’s a great tip! Thx 🙌🏻🙌🏻 I’ll let you know how it went. Gonna need next weekend to tackle that job!! 🤩🤩
Amazing work brother. I really al all the effort you made to share it with us. Would you mind sharing the specs of the bolt you used to fixed the turbo? 🎉❤🎉🎉
Morning I can't remember the length sorry but it was just a standard thread 8mm diameter bolt from memory around 25/30mm long
Vaya curro te mandaste !!! Te felicito !!! 🎉🎉👌
Great job getting that filmed in a confined space, turned out really good. Quick question, I briefly spied an obd2 gauge when you started Stu - haven't seen one that looked like that before, any details? (Im familiar with scangauge and ultragauge)
I got it from scangauges Australian
Super handy as you can watch heaps more things at once
I've got boost, engine oil temp, coolant temp, speedo based on gps, boost pressure and a couple of other things setup on there pretty handy to monitor whilst driving
Havbt read the manual though so don't no how to use it for codes hahah just as my monitoring device but apparently it does both
@@OUTBACKDiscovery I generally use my IID tool for monitoring temps while towing, but it would be nice to have something dedicated for that purpose. That shits fairly cheap now days too.
@@Shanes_Shed yeah was only $115 from memory but I picked this one because the obd2 plug is super slimline and doesn't really hang down probly about a 3rd of the height of the iid plug which I reckon a clumsy bugger like me would stap it off if I left it plugged in while driving
Still havnt bought one yet but definetly need to
let's be honest, landrover could of made it a lot easier, I always wondered about making a stainless crossover pipe aswell. could you make them easy to remove by taping threads on the manifold instead of using nuts and bolts?
Would love it if they were bolts and not nuts, would still be hard to get out as its a real tight area but would make life easier
@@OUTBACKDiscovery but then 2 top ones could be tapped and given bolts, you could then un do then easy from wheel well. Part of me want to cut my fender a tap for better access and put rubbt mat infront
@@ShockWaveGamings234fg321f 🤣 please don't hahah would be easy but you would always regret it haha
You can drop rear trans cross member and angle engine down for better access and then unbolt the front 2 body mounts and raise the front body up 30mm which gives you just enough room to get the cross over pipe out
And then just remove studs and use bolts as the threads already there 🍻
Gr8 job. Tough.
Thankyou 🙂🍻 went smoother then I thought it would
Mate im so glad im doing body off to change mine ..all that work and no one sees it lol ...great job keen to findout if its pickup is better than before it went bust 👏
I definetly noticed a difference in low end torque in mine
The job wasn't as bad as I thought once was annoying having to cut the studs to get it out though
Definetly recommend using bolts instead of studs on the top turbo to exhaust manifold bolts made life a heap easier
Hello Mate, i was having a Engine System Fault message on my dashboard so i decided to remove the Turbo on my 2005 Range Rover Sport 2.7TDV6 and cleaned the internal Turbo Vanes to ensure free movement of the Turbo Actuator Arm. Before removal of the Turbo i was getting error code P132B-00 - Turbo/Supercharger boost control A performance (permanent), now after cleaning up the Turbo, i also decided to reAdjust the adjustment screw settings for the actuator arm to have more room for movement. After re installing the Turbo back in the car the Engine System Fault error was gone and there were no more error lights on my dashboard. I am now getting DTC P138E Turbocharger boost control position sensor A - minimum/maximum stop performance with no error lights on my dashboard. I am also experiencing power loss on high rpm with these DTC's "B1B02-28 Low Frequency Coil" and "B1C57-14 Unused relay drive". Could you please help me solve the problem with my car.
Thanks
Hey brakelyn Iversion just replied to your comment on the other turbo video 🍻
Hi did you ever fix your one ? I have that p132b -00 turbo supercharger boost control A !!!!
turbo actuator is free and it’s only happening when you power it up a big hill, not Smokey at all and I smoke tested it and no split hoses or visual signs of any leaks, if the rod is free can the veins still be sticky ? Or once the rod is free it’s all good ? I have that unused relay drive fault but I don’t think they’re connected