Couldnt get a pick in to move it. Used the lead idea. put the die in a freezer for a couple of hours. Two taps with a large punch and the whole thing came out beautifully. A lifesaver. Many thanks:) Saved me sending it back to Lee
I finally tried to reform the cases. Annealed them with a torch while they spun on a lazy susan in a pan of water Its awkward and very slow but it does work. I only had the fl sizing die so it took 3 anneals to get them down to look like Martini cases. This morning I got my fl sizing die back from the gunsmith bored out to 9/16" It is so smooth . Cases easily make the intermediate step down. Much easier
Great video. My Dad and I were forming 577/450 in the late 1970s from 577 basic brass. We stood the cases in a water bath while annealing the necks. It was a slow labor of love. When or if the case necks crack you can cut the case at he neck and make 577 Snider rounds but they are a bit short. I have also used the old cases cut to 1 inch to fire my 577 Belgian Pryese Revolver. Again great job !
Excellent Job! Short, sweet, and to the point. I specially like the "special Tool" for annealing the brass. A lot of people forget that small, but very helpful step.
Glad you guys like the video, I learned the process from the guys on the martini forum. This particular process (using a intermediate sizing die) is best and fastest way to form brass with less failures. An alternative method is to just use the standard sizing die and slowly and carefully run the brass in and out of the die. That method is time consuming and if your not careful you'll have a high rate of failures. Sizing brass in steps as shown in the video is the best way to go.
I just ordered a Martini Henry from IMA. Too bad its going to have to be a wall hanger untill I get out of apartment living and have space for a set-up like yours to make ammo. Your method looks much easier than the tutorial I read about using the final sizing die for the whole process.
@camerl2009 Sure, you just have to go very slow. You also don't anneal the entire end of the case. It needs to be strong so the case doesn't collapse. Anneal a little of the case, use case lube, slowly move the case in and out, then anneal a little more of the case and continue. Its pretty time consuming compare to using a sizing die as a sacrificial step die.
Drill a hole in a piece of aluminum the same size as the threads so the screw slides in. Then take a steel hammer and tap on the screw slot forming the metal back into place. This trick will work if not too badly damaged. Your screw slot will hopefully look a lot better and be usable.
Great video thanks. Only issue is the cost of the dies. And needing to get two sizing dies is going to break the bank. $120 for the dies is not cheap, although it is worth it. I have a Martini Henry Mk IV, got it for free, but I am a student and cannot afford the kit yet. ;)
@medhist2006 The die is heat treated pretty deep, about .008 of an inch but I still would not try to use a steel pick on it. Try using a brass pick. If that fails, spray it out with brake cleaner, run a brass brush in cleaning the brass use a cuetip to apply oil to the steel, then plug the depriming hole and pour some lead into it. Hopefully the lead will stick to the brass and you can knock it out from the depriming end.
I dont have access to a lathe so I trim mine like they showed in the forum. Two pieces of wood with a 5/8" hole in it. put it in a little drill press vise and used a Forester 1" cutter to trim them down, Accurate to about .o2 "
@medhist2006 I don't think so, but you may want to re-anneal them after the 3rd reload. I'm not sure why you would have the fine pitting, maybe they got too hot?
@Lahti1935 I can't believe they told you that. Perhaps they were worried it might ruin some tooling since it is hard. I cut the top off on my horizontal saw, and they put it in my lathe and used a carbide boring bar to bore it out. I don't have high dollar tools either, most are chinese made. I've heard of people using a 9/16 drill bit to do it but it ruined the bit.
@Lahti1935 Make sure they are cut to the close to the length you'll need before attempting to size them. They do stretch also. Could be you have a bad die.
@Alibi1986 Apparently this method was thought of by somebody who tired of using just the final sizing die. I'm no expert on case forming, but this method beats the pants off of just trying to use the final sizing die for everything.
@ginsboy2003 THank you. That makes perfect sense. I thought I would need to leave the wrench flats on the die incase I needed to press out a stuck case but with a 9/16" hole you can just frop a rod down and tap it out:) As soon as I make some cases I will be getting a rifle(or two) from IMA.
,e again:) I made a holder like toy have out of a copper sleeve. 8 sec on the torch does it . You are correct. the light pitting was from overheating. Its not visible in the video but did you remove the depriming rod from your die for the final sizing? Manythanks
I don't loose cases anymore, they come out perfect every time now, thats why I made the video ;). I'd like to know any tricks you may have though. I've found that with case stretching if I cut them to 2.28 before sizing they end up at 2.35 and I only have to trim .010 when I'm done.
after your initial trim before you heated the cases. was a second trim required? other related videos on forming this caliber ive watched a second trim seems to be required. if you take enough off in the first trim does it make a second trim unnecessary?
thats really is craft. Very cool. Is that basically the same thing they do when someone wants to reload 8mm from 30-06 brass? I just learned more off your 1st vid than I have thumbing through other like videos
I contacted Lee and bought a fl die body. THey told me the die is carburized to a depth of .008-.010 file hard. Now Im looking for someone to bore it out to the 9/16" and cut down the top. Why was the top cut down?
Sorry for making you repeat what you've already said but im very confused as of what I would have to buy and do to the die? Is there any specific set I should get and what needs to be done to the die to form the brass?
the high cost of brass kept me from buying a MH. I dont know how i would get the 9/16" hole drilled. possibly Lee would do it? for a fee of course. I visit not too faqr far from their plant.Exceelent videos. tyvm:)
@SPICYMOOCHOO I doubt it, the die alone from LEE cost $45 then I'd have to modify it and sell it. I don't think anyone would want to pay that much for it. The average guy could buy the same die, cut the top off, and then run a 9/16 bit through it. I use a lathe to modify my die, I could modify somebody for somebody else though, if they sent it to me.
Time for me to admit I made a mistake. THe wall of the shotshell case is much thinner than the drawn case and obvously more fragile. Having reduced the diameter to 9/16" using an opened fl sizing die I attempted to take it to the factory size using my fl sizing die. Properly lubed it ran it through and got that secondary shoulder when the die was seated fully.the neck broke off inthe die.when i tried to resize it any suggestions for removal? asalways, thanks
just a thought.. wouldnt it be a good idea to anneal the cases after final sizing? I notice the nexks of my cases have developed what i would call very fine pitting. Is that a heat issue? many thanks. Now to order that rifle:)
@SpiroHrvoje1989 Thanks, I've had some good compliments on the video, I guess the guns are not as loved by others as much as we like them ourselves. I'm surprised that this and my other martini vids get so little views.
the high cost of brass kept me from buying a MH. I dont know how i would get the 9/16" hole drilled. possibly Lee would do it? for a fee of course. I visit not too faqr far from their plant.
Any chance you have done 8x52R Siamese Mauser? it's 8mm in a necked down 45-70 case, then the base is trimmed and beveled. I'd love to know how to do that!
ginsboy im not a person of with knowledge about bullets etc but do you know how to make the rounds into blanks? also im going to be making a movie and i need some of these blank type bullets so i was wondering if theres any chance i can purchase them of you if you made me some?...if its too much trouble dont worry about it though
hello, how do you get the dies set so that the neckdown happens in the right place? Also, you have a later vd about modifying the sizing die, is this an additional step or was it done to make the necking down process easier? thanks!!
maddkraut03 You adjust the die per the instructions that Lee gives, and it will form the shoulder in the correct place. Buy an additional die and modifying it so you can form the brass in two steps makes it a LOT easier. I ruined a couple cases slowly trying to form the brass in the beginning. Buying another die, modifying it and making it a two step process made the percentage of ruined cases go down to nearly zero. I get one bad case out of 50 or more now.
Couldnt get a pick in to move it. Used the lead idea. put the die in a freezer for a couple of hours. Two taps with a large punch and the whole thing came out beautifully. A lifesaver. Many thanks:) Saved me sending it back to Lee
I finally tried to reform the cases. Annealed them with a torch while they spun on a lazy susan in a pan of water
Its awkward and very slow but it does work. I only had the fl sizing die so it took 3 anneals to get them down to look like Martini cases. This morning I got my fl sizing die back from the gunsmith bored out to 9/16" It is so smooth . Cases easily make the intermediate step down. Much easier
Great video. My Dad and I were forming 577/450 in the late 1970s from 577 basic brass. We stood the cases in a water bath while annealing the necks. It was a slow labor of love. When or if the case necks crack you can cut the case at he neck and make 577 Snider rounds but they are a bit short. I have also used the old cases cut to 1 inch to fire my 577 Belgian Pryese Revolver. Again great job !
Excellent Job! Short, sweet, and to the point. I specially like the "special Tool" for annealing the brass. A lot of people forget that small, but very helpful step.
Glad you guys like the video, I learned the process from the guys on the martini forum. This particular process (using a intermediate sizing die) is best and fastest way to form brass with less failures. An alternative method is to just use the standard sizing die and slowly and carefully run the brass in and out of the die. That method is time consuming and if your not careful you'll have a high rate of failures. Sizing brass in steps as shown in the video is the best way to go.
I just ordered a Martini Henry from IMA. Too bad its going to have to be a wall hanger untill I get out of apartment living and have space for a set-up like yours to make ammo. Your method looks much easier than the tutorial I read about using the final sizing die for the whole process.
Thanks, I hope people find this helpful. Its easy once you get the method down.
@camerl2009
Sure, you just have to go very slow. You also don't anneal the entire end of the case. It needs to be strong so the case doesn't collapse. Anneal a little of the case, use case lube, slowly move the case in and out, then anneal a little more of the case and continue. Its pretty time consuming compare to using a sizing die as a sacrificial step die.
Your right, it isn't cheap, but it is worth it in the long run.
That's a good video. To the point and covers everything.
Drill a hole in a piece of aluminum the same size as the threads so the screw slides in. Then take a steel hammer and tap on the screw slot forming the metal back into place. This trick will work if not too badly damaged. Your screw slot will hopefully look a lot better and be usable.
Great video thanks. Only issue is the cost of the dies. And needing to get two sizing dies is going to break the bank. $120 for the dies is not cheap, although it is worth it.
I have a Martini Henry Mk IV, got it for free, but I am a student and cannot afford the kit yet. ;)
like the cartridge annealer holder thing...handy little tool
I finished the mold, and made a vid for it. Came out great, but .003 larger than what I wanted so he may have to size the bullets down to .470.
@medhist2006
The die is heat treated pretty deep, about .008 of an inch but I still would not try to use a steel pick on it. Try using a brass pick. If that fails, spray it out with brake cleaner, run a brass brush in cleaning the brass use a cuetip to apply oil to the steel, then plug the depriming hole and pour some lead into it. Hopefully the lead will stick to the brass and you can knock it out from the depriming end.
I dont have access to a lathe so I trim mine like they showed in the forum. Two pieces of wood with a 5/8" hole in it. put it in a little drill press vise and used a Forester 1" cutter to trim them down, Accurate to about .o2 "
@medhist2006
I don't think so, but you may want to re-anneal them after the 3rd reload. I'm not sure why you would have the fine pitting, maybe they got too hot?
Not only a great first video but very informative.
It doesnt mean much to me personally as I only shoot air rifles but you are very clever . 5*
@Lahti1935
I can't believe they told you that. Perhaps they were worried it might ruin some tooling since it is hard. I cut the top off on my horizontal saw, and they put it in my lathe and used a carbide boring bar to bore it out. I don't have high dollar tools either, most are chinese made. I've heard of people using a 9/16 drill bit to do it but it ruined the bit.
Excellent video indeed. Are you possibly going to start selling the annealing tool/modified size dies?
@medhist2006
That is an excellent way to do it! We all work with what we have on hand!
Very good vid, I look forward to more of them.
@Lahti1935
Make sure they are cut to the close to the length you'll need before attempting to size them. They do stretch also. Could be you have a bad die.
@Alibi1986 Apparently this method was thought of by somebody who tired of using just the final sizing die. I'm no expert on case forming, but this method beats the pants off of just trying to use the final sizing die for everything.
@ginsboy2003 THank you. That makes perfect sense. I thought I would need to leave the wrench flats on the die incase I needed to press out a stuck case but with a 9/16" hole you can just frop a rod down and tap it out:) As soon as I make some cases I will be getting a rifle(or two) from IMA.
@medhist2006
Glad it worked for ya! Now time to start making cases!
,e again:)
I made a holder like toy have out of a copper sleeve. 8 sec on the torch does it . You are correct. the light pitting was from overheating.
Its not visible in the video but did you remove the depriming rod from your die for the final sizing?
Manythanks
I don't loose cases anymore, they come out perfect every time now, thats why I made the video ;). I'd like to know any tricks you may have though. I've found that with case stretching if I cut them to 2.28 before sizing they end up at 2.35 and I only have to trim .010 when I'm done.
after your initial trim before you heated the cases. was a second trim required? other related videos on forming this caliber ive watched a second trim seems to be required. if you take enough off in the first trim does it make a second trim unnecessary?
thats really is craft. Very cool. Is that basically the same thing they do when someone wants to reload 8mm from 30-06 brass? I just learned more off your 1st vid than I have thumbing through other like videos
@medhist2006 The top gets cut off so its easier to machine by boring it out from the top end.
I used a Lee martini sizing die. I have a video of the machining process for making the die you might like to see.
I contacted Lee and bought a fl die body. THey told me the die is carburized to a depth of .008-.010 file hard. Now Im looking for someone to bore it out to the 9/16" and cut down the top. Why was the top cut down?
Sorry for making you repeat what you've already said but im very confused as of what I would have to buy and do to the die? Is there any specific set I should get and what needs to be done to the die to form the brass?
Sorry I don't have a link for it. Try Grafs, Wideners, or midwayusa. Its the Lee classic cast steel press.
Sounds good, thanks for the info.
the high cost of brass kept me from buying a MH. I dont know how i would get the 9/16" hole drilled. possibly Lee would do it? for a fee of course. I visit not too faqr far from their plant.Exceelent videos. tyvm:)
@SPICYMOOCHOO
I doubt it, the die alone from LEE cost $45 then I'd have to modify it and sell it. I don't think anyone would want to pay that much for it. The average guy could buy the same die, cut the top off, and then run a 9/16 bit through it. I use a lathe to modify my die, I could modify somebody for somebody else though, if they sent it to me.
Time for me to admit I made a mistake. THe wall of the shotshell case is much thinner than the drawn case and obvously more fragile. Having reduced the diameter to 9/16" using an opened fl sizing die I attempted to take it to the factory size using my fl sizing die. Properly lubed it ran it through and got that secondary shoulder when the die was seated fully.the neck broke off inthe die.when i tried to resize it any suggestions for removal? asalways, thanks
just a thought.. wouldnt it be a good idea to anneal the cases after final sizing? I notice the nexks of my cases have developed what i would call very fine pitting. Is that a heat issue? many thanks. Now to order that rifle:)
@SpiroHrvoje1989 Thanks, I've had some good compliments on the video, I guess the guns are not as loved by others as much as we like them ourselves. I'm surprised that this and my other martini vids get so little views.
Like the vid. How's that bullet mold for iraqveteran coming ;)
the high cost of brass kept me from buying a MH. I dont know how i would get the 9/16" hole drilled. possibly Lee would do it? for a fee of course. I visit not too faqr far from their plant.
@medhist2006
For final sizing I left the depriming rod in.
Any chance you have done 8x52R Siamese Mauser? it's 8mm in a necked down 45-70 case, then the base is trimmed and beveled. I'd love to know how to do that!
@Lahti1935
Just go slow and take your time. I can do 50 cases at a time now and only ruin one out of those when forming if I'm not careful.
ginsboy im not a person of with knowledge about bullets etc but do you know how to make the rounds into blanks? also im going to be making a movie and i need some of these blank type bullets so i was wondering if theres any chance i can purchase them of you if you made me some?...if its too much trouble dont worry about it though
Well a spare sizing die from Lee needs to me modified into a step die. Msg me and I'll tell you more about it than I can here.
hello,
how do you get the dies set so that the neckdown happens in the right place? Also, you have a later vd about modifying the sizing die, is this an additional step or was it done to make the necking down process easier? thanks!!
maddkraut03 You adjust the die per the instructions that Lee gives, and it will form the shoulder in the correct place. Buy an additional die and modifying it so you can form the brass in two steps makes it a LOT easier. I ruined a couple cases slowly trying to form the brass in the beginning. Buying another die, modifying it and making it a two step process made the percentage of ruined cases go down to nearly zero. I get one bad case out of 50 or more now.
can i use my sizeing die to make cases
What particular die, if any did you have bored to 9/16 for the first step?
i will be crowd funding for the movie and by, id say (march-apr time) i will have the funds and be wanting to purchase some...well a few i should say
do you have a link for the press?
That is true.
What is the final case length?
hello I would like to know which tool you use cordially games
The dies I am using are made by Lee.
ginsboy2003 thank you but the resize tool sets because I am French and I do not find in the reloading tool cordially games
@Iraqveteran8888 Ya Let me know what video