After several years of setting up tubeless tires on mountain bikes, fat bikes, and now road and gravel bikes, I've encountered almost every issue you mention in this video. Thank you for all the tips and tricks! Despite the high cost of tubeless tire systems, in my experience the installation hasn't gotten any easier or reliable. It can be one of the most frustrating aspects of bicycle maintenance. Sometimes you just have to set it aside, wait a day or two, and troubleshoot again using a new method.
2:26. That half a second where Calvin puts his finger over the valve with the core removed using the blow nozzle is honestly gold. My tires kept seating and then unseating when i let the pressure out to install the core. When i just held my finger over to keep the air pressure in i was able to quickly shove the core in before the pressure got low enough to unseat the tire. Been working flawless ever since. I kept seeing it in the video after I came back since having done the conversion. I wish they highlighted that trick more in the video because I didnt notice until i figured it out myself. This was a self done tubeless conversion with a tubeless ready tire for context
Priceless, thank you. Yesterday, I spent three hours to seat tubeless a new DHF using my handheld Makita compressor with both sides beads staying stubbornly in the rim middle groove. Your tube trick has solved this as it did kept the other bead side firmly seated while removing the tube and filling the tyre up with sealant. There!
Thanks! I've been installing tubeless tires for years and finally ended up with one that just wouldn't seat. This video made all the difference. After an hour of fruitless efforts, I was able to install in about 5 minutes after watching. Good stuff!
This video triggers my PTSD ( I say this tongue-in-cheek) from a time an old school, flat-walled rim allowed a tire to blow off the rim during my very slow and deliberate inflation. I was listening to music in the shop when the tire exploded off the rim and thought the music had turned off. Nope. It was my ears. They turned off. I couldn't hear anything. Compounding the stress of the situation was the fact that I had to work at a recording studio that night. When my hearing returned a few minutes later everything sounded distorted. Suffice it to say, I'm grateful for hooked rims!
I just finished setting up my tubeless tires and couldn’t figure out at first why the bead wasn’t seating. I used the inner tube method and it worked perfectly. Thank you.
I used the repair stand method to remove tire….popped right off🤓. Us chicks generally don’t have the hand/thumb strength so I’m pleased to have this solution. Keep the videos coming!
I blew thru 4 CO2 cartridges and had given up hope of seating a tire myself. Your video, esp the suggesting to seat the bead by the rim, helped me seat the tire the next day. Thx.
Lots of great tips. I think I may have come across most of those over the years. One thing I keep harping though. I see you guys were wearing eye protection. I also wear ear protection. I have had on occasion the tire blowing off the bead (probably less so today than when we first started). When that happened the first time, my ears were ringing for a long time. I still have sealant on the ceiling of my shop from that episode.
I recently had an issue with seating a pair of road tubeless tires that just wouldn't seat. I tried the belt method with a compressor, valve core removed and Park INF-2 inflator. It just seemed the casing on the tire was a bit stiff so I removed off rim and rolled and folded the bead with my hands for a few minutes to soften things up and low and behold, it popped into place after remounting. Surprised Calvin didn't mention using the PTS-1 seating tool for those out of round issues. That really old tool does come in handy every once in awhile.
Did you use the PST-1 to install the tyre onto the rim OR to brake the bead? I’ve got a big problem braking the bead of a 700x28c tubeless on carbon rims & wondering if this tool is a good idea due to its curved jaws providing long contact area with the tyre
I tried all your tricks with Gravel King SS 35s but couldn't get them to seat. So I put tubes back in and rode around a few days. I tried again in a hot garage, not my cool basement workshop. This time they were warm, supple, used to being properly seated, and popped in no trouble.
For me, removing the valve core and pumping like mad with a floor pump worked. The valve core reduces the air flow going into the tyre. ALso some say centering both sides of the bead on the center of the rim bed helps create a better seal.
Excellent tip at the end , , , difficulty in braking the bead, First time I've ever seen a possible solution for braking the bead , , , use the bike stand clamp to squeeze and pry off the tyre. Thank you, thank you, thank you
@@parktoolMy difficulty is with a Schwalbe Pro One 700x28c road tubeless tyre on a carbon rim. I was thinking about using your PST-1 tool to brake the bead because of their curved jaws providing more grip length but worried about the steel jaws levering against the rim. If the bike stand method doesn’t work, is the PST-1 an option to use?
For the "bead difficult to remove problem", I've had some tires I simply could not get to pop off the bead seat and unseal. I squeezed so hard on the tire to pop the seal that my fingers bled and it still wouldn't unseat. Then I bought heavy-duty spring loaded clamps with plastic clamp surfaces on the jaws. Put two or three of these babies on the tire and let them do the squeezing for you. The plastic clamp jaws help keep the rim from getting marred, but you still want to be careful how you put the clamps on so they squeeze the tire but don't touch the rim. Works for me every time. Usually only takes two clamps and the bead pops right off. That said, tubeless still needs to get a lot easier! Oh, and always wear safety glasses when working on tires!
I share your experience re using thumbs to brake a bead. Got so hard I had to cut the tyre off the rim 😮 Do the clamps work on road tubeless 700x28c on carbon rims? Brand of clamp?
@@bradallen8643 Yes, the clamps work on every 700c tire I've tried. I only use 28mm and 30mm tires, and the clamps have worked on several brands of tires mounted on both aluminum and carbon rims. I bought "WORKPRO 4-piece Spring Clamp Set, 6-1/2-inch Nylon Clamps with Soft Bi-material Handle" from Amazon but it looks like those aren't available right now. I think other clamps should work so long as they are all-nylon except for the springs and pads, and use soft but sticky pads (and soft nylon everywhere else). No sharp metal edges. Be very careful not to mar or otherwise damage the rims if you try this -- use at your own risk. Wear safety glasses and gloves (as I do) and take any other safety precautions you think you might need. I suggest trying it out on cheap rims first if you are going to do it. If a clamp suddenly releases and loses its grip on the tire, I could see it potentially damaging a rim or flinging towards or away from you. That said, this technique has worked very reliably for me with careful attention, and no damage to any rims so far. I feel safer using clamps to break the bead than trying to cut the tires off with a sharp blade so close to an expensive carbon rim. And of course if you cut the tires you can't re-use them. But I use the clamp technique so I can replace the sealant and it hasn't damaged the tires in any way.
@@northkyt thanks for your thoughts. I recently noted Park Tool recommended using the frame clamp on their workstands for popping the bead as the jaws are wide, lined with rubber and manually wound tight to the tyre so there is good control.
I use a tube mounted in my tubless tires when getting the air bubbles out of new tape install. It also stretches the tire to the wheel. Another trick I use is Co2 cartridges for seating a tubeless tire. Removing the valve core helps too. I've only had one tire/wheel that went to the LBS for compressor assist.
If you use CO2 cartridges to seat a tubeless tire, make sure the sealant isn't in the tire as the cold gas may significantly decrease the effectiveness of the sealant. Alternatively, if there is sealant in the tire, place the valve at the 12 o'clock position for some time to let the sealant drain at a distance furthest from the valve, and apply the CO2 slower (if possible) to lower the temperature variant.
Yes, I add in the sealant after the tire seats. As I mentioned I remove the valve core first. I add in the sealant through the open valve stem. Thanx for the tip though, if I try to skip a step this will help.
When I reduced the PSI on my 29x3 tires from the full 30 down to 18, my puncture rate went way down. My Park Tool INF-2 Tire Inflator is the best tool that I own. And the Park Tool TSI-1 Tubeless Sealant Injector is a close second. I'm retired and ride almost everyday.
This is a great video! I’ve I had to wrestle with a lot of these problems over the years. It can be a real hair puller tracking down the root cause of a leak sometimes. Request: a video like this for dealing with tire inserts. Such as cush core.
Great video, as always. Trek Bontrager 32 mm tubeless tires on a new endurance bike. After 6 months, front tire started losing more air between rides so added Stan's sealant as instructed. Worked great. Then winter came a couple of months later. Store bike in garage but live in south so never much below 55F or so in the garage. Noticed both tires, but especially the front ( very little on the back tire), started "sweating" clear liquid mainly along the tire surface that interacts with the road. Not really much along the sidewall. Clear, not milky. No loss of air pressure. Assumed was condensation. Then front started developing very thin blisters again along the road interacting surface. The blisters would go away after a few miles of riding. Then eventually the blisters did not go away. Currently having the tire replaced even though it is otherwise not significantly worn. I speculated that this was ammonia leaching through micro defects in the tire but really don't know the reason. What do others think? Have others experienced this? Is it basically a defective tire? Is it somehow related to adding the Stan's sealant to that tire? I am not sure what sealant was used originally on this bike when new. Could this be some form of chemical interaction between sealants? Seems unlikely to me since it took a couple of months to start seeing the clear liquid and then the blisters. Appreciate any help.
Hi Keith, The "blister" effect, well known among cycling chemists, is due to the ramnufication of the hexichoralfibroxous, a high value ingredient that adds friction and often found in high-end tubeless tires. This is due to the particular environment that the tires are stored in, combined with the chemistry of the sealant used. This can be decisively dealt with by simply placing your bicycle(s) in a room that one's wife won't ever enter and breath in. Simple.
I've got the Trek plastic insert tubeless setup. Rode my bike from Southern California to Jefferson City, Missouri & never used my pump. Cactus, thorns, rocks trash....you name it, no problem at all. Edit; I'm running Schwalbe 29 x 2.25 Almotion. Awesome tires.
I typically use the inner tube seating method. Except that I stop in the middle of the process, after having inflated the tire with the tube in. I then just install the wheel back on the bike, go out and ride.
Been there, done that (twice). Went back in tubes, problem solved. I've set my tires tubeless twice, everything was great till the first problems appeared (sidewall leaking, puncture that seals for a while and reappears and so on..). After many resetting, latex refilling and many €€€ spent (expensive tires, liquid, valves, tapes ~ 140€ ), I did the math and tubes are waaayyy easier and cheaper. An extra tube (or two) is always with me in every ride in the dirt, tubeless or not, so... I can understand the advantages for the pro riders or maybe for a race, but for an average user-mtbiker like me... I'll pass.
The new tech in this space is starting to make it more and more appealing to switch to road tubeless, but I don't think I'm there yet for road riding. The mess of sealant, changing valve cores all the time, rim tape and tire seating issues...waiting to see these get a bit more refined before I make the switch
Having a valve that extends a bit past the rim bed prevents sealant from clogging up the core. I've only had valve core problems on Supacaz valves, they look cool but suck, much like the rest of their stuff. Sealant doesn't really leave a mess if you use a good one, Stans and Continental are the best that I've tried. Weldtite is by far the worst, it's near impossible to clean without a hose and doesn't really work at pressures above 5 bar. And rim tape is a 5 minute job that's set and forget.
the valve core issue can be heavily mitigated pretty easily IMO. I've been using sealant in TL + tubes for a few years now. Store your bike such that the valves are facing up (sealant drips out of the valve) and *NEVER* let air out of the tires unless you're willing to immediately remove the valve core and rinse it. If you're frequently letting out air from your tires, though, this may not work.
Very good to learn from this video. Two weeks ago I brought my road bike to the bike shop to fill with new sealant, yesterday when I pumped air and the sealant leaked out even it leaked to my floor pump. May I know why it leaked ?
If the beads don’t seat or hookup, I like to add 50ml of sealant, then jig the wheel up and down to fully coat inside the tire. It may get a little messy, but the sealant will do its job to create a seal strong enough for you to inflate the tire.
Inner tube seating method gets my vote after a failed belt method. The inner tube failed to give any characteristic seating snap noise. I persisted with the rest of the method with my trusty ghetto pump and snap!
Is it common for tubless tires to leak in the sidewall? My tire has at least 20 pinhole leaks around the entire sidewall. Oddly most of the leaks are only on the left side of the tire. I find it hard to believe a tire is porous. thank you
I have never encountered those problems. I just use a high pressure cleaner to clean the old sealant off and then a compressor to inflate. Bim bam, it’s sealed. But I have a lot of liquid escape on tyre patches on some tyres, and not on others. However, does not seem to influence the ability to hold tight.
I am a DYI bike mechanic and I enjoy it. I can repair pretty much anything. My suggestion is to leave the tubeless installs to a shop and let them figure it out. In terms of Road tubeless I just think the ride quality between tubeless and latex tube is very small and the amount of work required for tubeless is wayyyyy too high. This video really helps but if you are going to do this at home, get a good compressor, good rim tape, along with a full day of spare time, 6 really cold beers and a place private enough that nobody can hear you swearing and kicking things when the rim bead refuses to seat.
Most problems been with that rimtape is not sticking good enaf to rim. That i have solved with innertube and smaller tyre with high presure overnight. That defenetly stick rimtape good, good, good.
To make the pump fit better without the valve core, you can use an old valve core and cut the stem inside. You’re left with only the shell of the valve core. You get great fit and great flow that way
just wondering: having real trouble getting any kind of pressure into the tire - it just seems so loose... my compressor runs out of air and there's no pressure at all. Before giving up for the day I removed the sealant ( which was all over the place already anyway)... but before trying the inner tube trick: Should I add sealant after the initial tube install - right after installing the valve back? Or should I try without sealant first? Also: can the soapy water mix be from dishwasher liquid and how soapy should it be? Still watery or real soapy where you can feel the soap to the touch? Sorry! Super novice here...
Hello, the tube trick does wonders. Remove the sealant, install the tube tire, break one side of the bead to get the tube out, put that side of the bead back on, remove valve core, attempt to inflate the tire(The valve core being out will allow more air flow), if it inflates get it to seat and then allow it to deflate, install sealant, reinstall valve core and inflate. We would say go heavy on the soap. This gives it more sealing capability as it makes the fluid thicker.
I've been using Tubeless for 5 years now. Bit of a learning curve, I must admit. Many ups and downs. Ups: zero stinkin tubes, few if any flats, great on ice and snow, no need for heavy spiked tires (use 29 x 2.35). Downs: varying degrees of maintenance from filling with air 2 or three times a week, to adding sealant and making a royal mess ( I tell the wife it was crow shit), but the last time I opened up the tire was the worst. The tire was stuck like never before. ( I think my mistake was not breaking the seal all way round before prying it open in one spot. ) In any case the tire stretched out of shape and wouldn't hold air. I thought it was trashed but because it was fairly new, I inserted an inner tube. It worked. End of story? Not quite. Being the glutton for punishment that I am, and the snow was melting, 2 months later, I went tubeless again, but following some of the tips in your helpful video. Although not perfect, it has got me back on track for the short term. Time will tell. What I got mostly from the video was a centered tire rim and waiting for a popping sound (have a double cannister floor pump) before making a mess with the sealant. In the past I found that correct seating rarely if ever happened on the first inflation.
I just replaced my tire and it wouldn't hold air although it seated. So I tried remove the valve core and pushed air in with my compressor which worked, then before the air could leave I replaced the valve core. Seems to be working, I'll see how it held up in the morning.
Great video. How do you minimize valve core clogs? I am constantly loosing air from the core when topping off air. It seems the presta valve core is sticking due to clogs. Any ideas?
This might get long, but I believe it's a good question that I haven't seen anyone go over, also something my local bike shop said. I recently went to my local bike shop. I asked for advice on tubeless tape. I said something about getting tape 1 to 2mm wider than the internal rim width, he said he's never hear such a thing, he also said that there are only a few tape sizes, 21, 25, 35, and fat tire sizes. I just went along and said oh okay, knowing there are all sorts of sizes. I have a 25mm internal width, he gave me a roll of 25mm mucoff tape. I used the 25mm tape, and it does seat and hold air. The tape is not seated in the radius channel well where the spokes go, it is only seated on the flats where the bead sits. It does not reach the vertical sidewall part of the rim. Will it be okay? I had a 27mm tape, it was not sitting in the radius channel it was seated on the beat seat and slightly up the vertical sidewalls. I didn't like it, I have not been able to get a straight up answer on this aspect. When I do try the seat it in the radius, there is so many air bubbles from the spoke holes, and it looked terrible. I hear I should run a tube for a week and the air bubble will be gone and it will seat properly after when the tube is removed. Do I get another 27 pull tight, not worry about the radius well, and just run it? Or do I seat it in the radius channel and bead seat channel and not worry about the air bubbles? What do I do?
The tape adhering to the drop channel/ valley of the rim is a benefit. A person may have great success seating the tire and using it without it adhered to the drop channel/ valley but it may not give enough drop for the tire during install or removal. Be sure to clean the rim well so that the adhesive can stick. Some tapes contour better than others as well. Some bubbles is to be expected. Once the tape seats into the drop channel/ valley it will take up some of the width and may pull the tape away from one or both edges and is why a wider tape is suggested. Rotating the wheel while pushing down hard with a rag helps seat the tape. Different tapes and rim profiles make for different results..... so, results may vary. Hope this helps.
Once you get good at tubeless setups and ride literally years without flats like I have, you'll be a convert. My only frustration is still having to stop frequently on group rides to help hold-out tube users repair their flats.
Here comes the onslaught of the same repetitive shit of “I don’t understand why you need tubeless” even when the reasons have been said thousands of times. “If it doesn’t make sense to me it doesn’t make sense for anyone else”
Reminds me when I was working in a tyre and exhaust garage and we use spray tyre sealant on the bead of the tire and then sprayed it down onto the floor to light it with a lighter works every time 👍
I found that I had a air leak at the valve core of a cyclocross tire. Using the normal amount of sealant was not getting the system to hold air over time when I set it up the first install. Then I tried it again with significantly more sealant. It got the system to work now I have no more problems the tires can last weeks without losing air.
I'm new to tubeless and was wondering if it's normal for the tire to lose a few psi between rides? I ride everyday and am putting some air in before each ride. The tires are seated properly and I'm pretty sure I have added enough sealant. Just wanted to make sure! Thanks!!
I had this happen once. I had an internal leak into a sealed wheel. Eventually I had some leaking around a couple nipples. Keep a close eye on your valve stem too. It turned out my tape was just not wide enough and I had leakage under the tape. Your tires should be seated on top of the tape.
Also, what happens when 12:27 you can’t brake the bead in the field?! You don’t have the special tools in the field to brake the bead. You have to rely on a tubeless repair kit to plug any leak/puncture because you can’t get the tyre off to insert a tube.
So just got brand new Vee Flow Snap Tackee TR Synthesis 27.5 x 2.6 Tires, install 1 of them on Sunrigle Duro40 rim that I did have a Maxxis DHR-2 on it tubeless no issues. Flow Snap seated on the rim had a couple of pops and added 4oz of tubeless fluid, did about 40 shakes with the wheel and seems to hold air, but about 8 hours goes flat. I sprayed soapy water on the bead and get small bubbles all the way around the wheel both sides, is the tire beard defective?
Interesting. More pressure while shaking may push the sealant into the bead more. You may also want to contact Vee or the seller to ask them. They will have more experience with that tire.
I had never heard that explanation before for blowing out the side of a deep carbon fiber rim - leaked air under the tape. A bike shop mechanic had just told me about a wheel that had blown up while he worked on it in exactly the manner described. He just chose the first quasi-logical explanation, and blamed bad Chinese manufacturing processes. I intend to let him know that it wasn't a bad wheel - more likely it was how he installed the tape and the external gasket on the valve stem.
I understand that more people will start using tubeless tyres I sta with the innertvbe and tyre method. The rims on my bike are not designed for using tubeless tyres. And the tyres I use is the Schwalbe marathon PLUS(37-622). This tyre is designed for use with innertube. I always carry a Gaudi Ended tube with me. I once had to use a drinking pack to temporary seal the hole that I got with the blow-out. After replacing the innertube with the ended tube, I was able to set the tyre on a low(er) pressure. I was able to cycle home in 1 hour. Otherwise It would have taken 4 hours of walking to get home.
0.5 drop (about 7 psi) is a common but also a bit much. Over inflate from where you ride, and use some soapy water to find bubbles at bead, valve and nipples. If air is escaping from sidewalls there is not much you can do.
My tubeless Maxis minion DHF was fine at install but 3 weeks after install I was at the downhill park and it went flat all the sudden. After re inflating I got another 3-4 lift served runs but this morning its flat again. I don't see any visible damage to the rim (my first thought) or to the tire itself (no visible active sealant leak). Any thoughts? I guess I'll try the soapy water method to see if I can find where the air is escaping now. Rear tire with same sealant and installed same day is fine.
You are on the right track looking where the air is coming out. The tape is my guess. You will notice air escaping from the valve or nipples if that is the case.
WTB sold me "tubless wheels and tires" and i equpiped it with stans no tubes sealant, valve and tape. the air was escaping through the gum wall of the tire.
So im having a bit of trouble with my gravel tyres. When i inflate them (got a little air pressure tank that i pump up manually) without the valve core, they seat perfectly, but when i remove the tube from the air tank and the air drains the beeds fall out again, so i cant seat it unless i leave the tank on. Any advice?
Have you tried seating it with your tank and the valve core in? If it would seat like that then it would stay inflated. It also sounds like the bead seat is not holding the tire very well. Are you using soapy water to help it into place?
You could, but you would not get the benefits of a tubeless system. Tubeless systems handle differently. Without an inner tube you can ride lower pressure for handling and not pinch an inner tube.
I don't know who needs to read this, but *first check to make sure that your tire is a tubeless type* before spending 4 days trying all these methods and more to troubleshoot why it wont seat or leaks air when it does. Your shop *also* might have sent you one tubeless and one tube-type tire whose boxes look virtually identical... : \
I've been using fatty strippers (yes, they are a real thing found outside of clubs, so get your minds out of the gutter) to seat fat bike tires for tubeless setup. They work amazing, and have made my most frustrating job just another day in the shop.
I have a 2024 Gaint TCR which came with tubeless set up/tubeless specific rims. Using tubeless tyres/etc rear one has settled and sealed perfectly however front will not settle always leaks no matter what be completely flat within 24hrs. Bike shop has tried (bike only 3mths old) everything too (retape, different sealant/etc) they can’t solve either been told “that’s life, just have to live with it normal sometimes for a tubeless road tyre to stay up for more than 24hrs”. Conclusion Road tubeless useless does not always work 😢 will have to indeed live with as the TCR based around tubeless now.
Begin with a diagnosis of the front issue. There are three possible sources of a leak in a good tire. The valve core may be leaking. The tire may be leaking along the bead. Or the rim tape may be bad. Begin with a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the bead of one side, fully inflated. Looks for obvious bubbles. Check the other side. Now spray the valve. If all is good, spray at the spoke nipples. This helps isolate the issue. If the rear seats well, so should the front.
So what do you do if you are 5 miles from the nearest road, and your new gravel bike has a puncture? Seems to me you need a tire plugging tool with slugs, and a C02 inflator and lots of extra C02 cartridges. The only difference is you dont need to replace the tube, Finding the hole might be a bitch too, which is why youre going to need 2 or more CO2 cartridges. I know they are supposed to have some sealant in there that should fill in the holes, but I've had flats from sheet-rock screws, chunks of metal the size and shape of a jackknife blade , shards of wood, giant shards of glass, ceramics and even chunks of lava punctures. I ride some roads along busy roads, not just perfect gravel. I am anticipating my first tire failure, and could use some advice? What tools do you carry?
Tire levers, an inflation device, a plug tool, tire boots and a tube should be able to fix almost any flat that you experience. At the very least tire levers, an inflation device and a tube.
@@parktoolTyre levers won’t help in the field if you can’t brake the bead first using your thumbs. If your tubeless plugs don’t seal the puncture/cut then you’re up #*% creek because you can’t insert a tube. Any tool suggestions for braking the beads in the field?
Happened to me but it wasn’t catastrophic. Sealant seeped out of cracks in the rim. Really spooky. Did not understand what happened. Rim manufacturer sent me a new rim but now we know it was user error by allowing a bad rim tape job to create leaks. In my view rim tape is the Achilles heel of tubeless systems especially high pressure road wheels. Using soapy water to detect leaks is critical! Great job Park Tool!!
If you install your rim tape wall to wall and put in a small piece of inner tube inside the valve-rim interface as a gasket, you are almost guaranteed to never run into this issue. Also, like the video said, don't use a rubber O ring on the outside of the rim.
@@404nobrakes Thank you! To be clear, the inner tube gasket goes between the valve and rim tape on the inside? Also I use those Enve nuts on outside of rim so as to allow air to escape if it breaches the rim tape. Tubeless rim tape (and probably application error) is the weak link in my experience.
Your better of brushing the foam of a soap mixture to the edge of the tire, it will not go iside the tire, and work even better. That way you dont get lots of soap water inside the tire. As this will change the properties of the sealent.
GP5000 TL and Bontrager Aeolus xxx --- What works for me: Mount tire and put in sealer, a little more than 40miili liters. Hold wheel upright so sealant pools at the bottom. Squeeze the beads together so some sealant flows out and coats the beads. Rotate the wheel and repeat until all the around. If some sealant spills out onto the sidewalls, that's OK. That is why I've put in extra - 10-20milli liter. Once I have the beads coated this way, I am able to inflate and seat with my mini-pump!! YMMV
Seepage also happens if someone added sealant without shaking it up. This means you got lots of liquid but not much suspended rubber in there. It will seep like crazy and not seal well.
After several years of setting up tubeless tires on mountain bikes, fat bikes, and now road and gravel bikes, I've encountered almost every issue you mention in this video. Thank you for all the tips and tricks! Despite the high cost of tubeless tire systems, in my experience the installation hasn't gotten any easier or reliable. It can be one of the most frustrating aspects of bicycle maintenance. Sometimes you just have to set it aside, wait a day or two, and troubleshoot again using a new method.
2:26. That half a second where Calvin puts his finger over the valve with the core removed using the blow nozzle is honestly gold. My tires kept seating and then unseating when i let the pressure out to install the core. When i just held my finger over to keep the air pressure in i was able to quickly shove the core in before the pressure got low enough to unseat the tire. Been working flawless ever since. I kept seeing it in the video after I came back since having done the conversion. I wish they highlighted that trick more in the video because I didnt notice until i figured it out myself. This was a self done tubeless conversion with a tubeless ready tire for context
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I had the same issue yesterday, the rear tyre seated and then unseated as soon as I am about to insert the valve core.
That pop at the end of filling a tubeless tire is so satisfying.
Priceless, thank you. Yesterday, I spent three hours to seat tubeless a new DHF using my handheld Makita compressor with both sides beads staying stubbornly in the rim middle groove. Your tube trick has solved this as it did kept the other bead side firmly seated while removing the tube and filling the tyre up with sealant. There!
Thanks! I've been installing tubeless tires for years and finally ended up with one that just wouldn't seat. This video made all the difference. After an hour of fruitless efforts, I was able to install in about 5 minutes after watching. Good stuff!
This video triggers my PTSD ( I say this tongue-in-cheek) from a time an old school, flat-walled rim allowed a tire to blow off the rim during my very slow and deliberate inflation. I was listening to music in the shop when the tire exploded off the rim and thought the music had turned off. Nope. It was my ears. They turned off. I couldn't hear anything. Compounding the stress of the situation was the fact that I had to work at a recording studio that night. When my hearing returned a few minutes later everything sounded distorted. Suffice it to say, I'm grateful for hooked rims!
Been there
I just finished setting up my tubeless tires and couldn’t figure out at first why the bead wasn’t seating. I used the inner tube method and it worked perfectly. Thank you.
I used the repair stand method to remove tire….popped right off🤓. Us chicks generally don’t have the hand/thumb strength so I’m pleased to have this solution. Keep the videos coming!
Heavy duty spring loaded clamps work too!
Does the clamp work on tubeless road tyres (700x28c) where you have narrow rims and less tyre bulk to grip?
I blew thru 4 CO2 cartridges and had given up hope of seating a tire myself. Your video, esp the suggesting to seat the bead by the rim, helped me seat the tire the next day. Thx.
It's like you guys are reading my mind with your topic selection!
Lots of great tips. I think I may have come across most of those over the years.
One thing I keep harping though. I see you guys were wearing eye protection. I also wear ear protection. I have had on occasion the tire blowing off the bead (probably less so today than when we first started). When that happened the first time, my ears were ringing for a long time. I still have sealant on the ceiling of my shop from that episode.
I recently had an issue with seating a pair of road tubeless tires that just wouldn't seat. I tried the belt method with a compressor, valve core removed and Park INF-2 inflator. It just seemed the casing on the tire was a bit stiff so I removed off rim and rolled and folded the bead with my hands for a few minutes to soften things up and low and behold, it popped into place after remounting. Surprised Calvin didn't mention using the PTS-1 seating tool for those out of round issues. That really old tool does come in handy every once in awhile.
Did you use the PST-1 to install the tyre onto the rim OR to brake the bead? I’ve got a big problem braking the bead of a 700x28c tubeless on carbon rims & wondering if this tool is a good idea due to its curved jaws providing long contact area with the tyre
If anyone has a belt that fits, you really should be riding your bike more.
Especially its a 29+ belt 😫
So you're a narrow hips guy?... 😏
@@marlonblade007 nah, I don't mind 90" hips, but for the waist it's too much.
I wear one of those off white industrial belts, its like 200cm, or, 80in lol.
Hahaha, so good. I combined two belts, still too short. I then used straps for hauling purposes.
I tried all your tricks with Gravel King SS 35s but couldn't get them to seat. So I put tubes back in and rode around a few days. I tried again in a hot garage, not my cool basement workshop. This time they were warm, supple, used to being properly seated, and popped in no trouble.
Excellent video covering more issues than many others. Thanks.
For me, removing the valve core and pumping like mad with a floor pump worked. The valve core reduces the air flow going into the tyre. ALso some say centering both sides of the bead on the center of the rim bed helps create a better seal.
Excellent tip at the end , , , difficulty in braking the bead, First time I've ever seen a possible solution for braking the bead , , , use the bike stand clamp to squeeze and pry off the tyre. Thank you, thank you, thank you
Yes, that can work well. Careful not to grab the rim, but close to the bead, then use the wheel as a lever.
@@parktoolMy difficulty is with a Schwalbe Pro One 700x28c road tubeless tyre on a carbon rim. I was thinking about using your PST-1 tool to brake the bead because of their curved jaws providing more grip length but worried about the steel jaws levering against the rim. If the bike stand method doesn’t work, is the PST-1 an option to use?
great video. Took literally every single step possible to make the tire bead with my floor pump, but it worked.
Ive found scrubbing old sealant from the tyre bead helps.
Oh that tip on tire fitting too tight and having to remove it using the stand clamp is great one!
Inserting the innertube worked fantastic when trying to seat 25mm road tyre great method 👍👍
I’m a big believer in the turbo booster thing you hook up to your track pump AND use soapy water.! 👍🙌
Success! When I heard the words “air compressor” I remembered I have a special unit for my Jeep Wrangler tires. Wonderful!
For the "bead difficult to remove problem", I've had some tires I simply could not get to pop off the bead seat and unseal. I squeezed so hard on the tire to pop the seal that my fingers bled and it still wouldn't unseat. Then I bought heavy-duty spring loaded clamps with plastic clamp surfaces on the jaws. Put two or three of these babies on the tire and let them do the squeezing for you. The plastic clamp jaws help keep the rim from getting marred, but you still want to be careful how you put the clamps on so they squeeze the tire but don't touch the rim. Works for me every time. Usually only takes two clamps and the bead pops right off. That said, tubeless still needs to get a lot easier! Oh, and always wear safety glasses when working on tires!
I share your experience re using thumbs to brake a bead. Got so hard I had to cut the tyre off the rim 😮 Do the clamps work on road tubeless 700x28c on carbon rims? Brand of clamp?
@@bradallen8643 Yes, the clamps work on every 700c tire I've tried. I only use 28mm and 30mm tires, and the clamps have worked on several brands of tires mounted on both aluminum and carbon rims. I bought "WORKPRO 4-piece Spring Clamp Set, 6-1/2-inch Nylon Clamps with Soft Bi-material Handle" from Amazon but it looks like those aren't available right now. I think other clamps should work so long as they are all-nylon except for the springs and pads, and use soft but sticky pads (and soft nylon everywhere else). No sharp metal edges. Be very careful not to mar or otherwise damage the rims if you try this -- use at your own risk. Wear safety glasses and gloves (as I do) and take any other safety precautions you think you might need. I suggest trying it out on cheap rims first if you are going to do it. If a clamp suddenly releases and loses its grip on the tire, I could see it potentially damaging a rim or flinging towards or away from you. That said, this technique has worked very reliably for me with careful attention, and no damage to any rims so far. I feel safer using clamps to break the bead than trying to cut the tires off with a sharp blade so close to an expensive carbon rim. And of course if you cut the tires you can't re-use them. But I use the clamp technique so I can replace the sealant and it hasn't damaged the tires in any way.
@@northkyt thanks for your thoughts. I recently noted Park Tool recommended using the frame clamp on their workstands for popping the bead as the jaws are wide, lined with rubber and manually wound tight to the tyre so there is good control.
@@bradallen8643 ahh, I didn't think of using a Park workstand clamp, I think that could work really well too.
I use a tube mounted in my tubless tires when getting the air bubbles out of new tape install. It also stretches the tire to the wheel. Another trick I use is Co2 cartridges for seating a tubeless tire. Removing the valve core helps too. I've only had one tire/wheel that went to the LBS for compressor assist.
If you use CO2 cartridges to seat a tubeless tire, make sure the sealant isn't in the tire as the cold gas may significantly decrease the effectiveness of the sealant. Alternatively, if there is sealant in the tire, place the valve at the 12 o'clock position for some time to let the sealant drain at a distance furthest from the valve, and apply the CO2 slower (if possible) to lower the temperature variant.
Yes, I add in the sealant after the tire seats. As I mentioned I remove the valve core first. I add in the sealant through the open valve stem. Thanx for the tip though, if I try to skip a step this will help.
im getting desperate its not working out, sealant is everywhere.
I can’t describe how extremely familiar this is lmao
When I reduced the PSI on my 29x3 tires from the full 30 down to 18, my puncture rate went way down. My Park Tool INF-2 Tire Inflator is the best tool that I own. And the Park Tool TSI-1 Tubeless Sealant Injector is a close second. I'm retired and ride almost everyday.
Thank you. This is an excellent guide and full of so many tips to help with these frustrating problems.
This is a great video! I’ve I had to wrestle with a lot of these problems over the years. It can be a real hair puller tracking down the root cause of a leak sometimes.
Request: a video like this for dealing with tire inserts. Such as cush core.
Stay tuned!
Great video Calvin and Truman, Awesome Knowledge
Great video, as always. Trek Bontrager 32 mm tubeless tires on a new endurance bike. After 6 months, front tire started losing more air between rides so added Stan's sealant as instructed. Worked great. Then winter came a couple of months later. Store bike in garage but live in south so never much below 55F or so in the garage. Noticed both tires, but especially the front ( very little on the back tire), started "sweating" clear liquid mainly along the tire surface that interacts with the road. Not really much along the sidewall. Clear, not milky. No loss of air pressure. Assumed was condensation. Then front started developing very thin blisters again along the road interacting surface. The blisters would go away after a few miles of riding. Then eventually the blisters did not go away. Currently having the tire replaced even though it is otherwise not significantly worn. I speculated that this was ammonia leaching through micro defects in the tire but really don't know the reason. What do others think? Have others experienced this? Is it basically a defective tire? Is it somehow related to adding the Stan's sealant to that tire? I am not sure what sealant was used originally on this bike when new. Could this be some form of chemical interaction between sealants? Seems unlikely to me since it took a couple of months to start seeing the clear liquid and then the blisters. Appreciate any help.
Hi Keith, The "blister" effect, well known among cycling chemists, is due to the ramnufication of the hexichoralfibroxous, a high value ingredient that adds friction and often found in high-end tubeless tires. This is due to the particular environment that the tires are stored in, combined with the chemistry of the sealant used.
This can be decisively dealt with by simply placing your bicycle(s) in a room that one's
wife won't ever enter and breath in. Simple.
I've got the Trek plastic insert tubeless setup. Rode my bike from Southern California to Jefferson City, Missouri & never used my pump. Cactus, thorns, rocks trash....you name it, no problem at all. Edit; I'm running Schwalbe 29 x 2.25 Almotion. Awesome tires.
I typically use the inner tube seating method. Except that I stop in the middle of the process, after having inflated the tire with the tube in. I then just install the wheel back on the bike, go out and ride.
Been there, done that (twice). Went back in tubes, problem solved. I've set my tires tubeless twice, everything was great till the first problems appeared (sidewall leaking, puncture that seals for a while and reappears and so on..). After many resetting, latex refilling and many €€€ spent (expensive tires, liquid, valves, tapes ~ 140€ ), I did the math and tubes are waaayyy easier and cheaper. An extra tube (or two) is always with me in every ride in the dirt, tubeless or not, so... I can understand the advantages for the pro riders or maybe for a race, but for an average user-mtbiker like me... I'll pass.
The new tech in this space is starting to make it more and more appealing to switch to road tubeless, but I don't think I'm there yet for road riding. The mess of sealant, changing valve cores all the time, rim tape and tire seating issues...waiting to see these get a bit more refined before I make the switch
Having a valve that extends a bit past the rim bed prevents sealant from clogging up the core. I've only had valve core problems on Supacaz valves, they look cool but suck, much like the rest of their stuff.
Sealant doesn't really leave a mess if you use a good one, Stans and Continental are the best that I've tried. Weldtite is by far the worst, it's near impossible to clean without a hose and doesn't really work at pressures above 5 bar.
And rim tape is a 5 minute job that's set and forget.
the valve core issue can be heavily mitigated pretty easily IMO. I've been using sealant in TL + tubes for a few years now. Store your bike such that the valves are facing up (sealant drips out of the valve) and *NEVER* let air out of the tires unless you're willing to immediately remove the valve core and rinse it. If you're frequently letting out air from your tires, though, this may not work.
Very good to learn from this video. Two weeks ago I brought my road bike to the bike shop to fill with new sealant, yesterday when I pumped air and the sealant leaked out even it leaked to my floor pump. May I know why it leaked ?
Thanks Park Tool for the very good video with a wide variety of examples.
I kid you not, I literally had a dream last night that I was trying to get my tubeless tires to seat properly... 🚴♂️😂
You know you're a cyclist when......
For new tires I try and get a sunny day to set them up outside, as the sun warms the rubber it seems to make it a bit easier to seat on the rim.
If the beads don’t seat or hookup, I like to add 50ml of sealant, then jig the wheel up and down to fully coat inside the tire. It may get a little messy, but the sealant will do its job to create a seal strong enough for you to inflate the tire.
What a great video, clear and very helpful, thanks PT!
Inner tube seating method gets my vote after a failed belt method. The inner tube failed to give any characteristic seating snap noise. I persisted with the rest of the method with my trusty ghetto pump and snap!
Not one mention of the tire blowing off the rim with sealant going everywhere. We all have been there.
Well, maybe I'll get there, but I've put on a fair amount of tubeless tires and can't even imagine that happening at proper pressures.
My road bike tyre was not seating on the rim after a few attempts, inserting the inner tube and then trying again helped and it seated the tyre.
Sorry to be a troll but the mustache dude looks like a scooby doo villain
Is it common for tubless tires to leak in the sidewall? My tire has at least 20 pinhole leaks around the entire sidewall. Oddly most of the leaks are only on the left side of the tire. I find it hard to believe a tire is porous. thank you
I have never encountered those problems. I just use a high pressure cleaner to clean the old sealant off and then a compressor to inflate. Bim bam, it’s sealed. But I have a lot of liquid escape on tyre patches on some tyres, and not on others. However, does not seem to influence the ability to hold tight.
I am a DYI bike mechanic and I enjoy it. I can repair pretty much anything. My suggestion is to leave the tubeless installs to a shop and let them figure it out. In terms of Road tubeless I just think the ride quality between tubeless and latex tube is very small and the amount of work required for tubeless is wayyyyy too high. This video really helps but if you are going to do this at home, get a good compressor, good rim tape, along with a full day of spare time, 6 really cold beers and a place private enough that nobody can hear you swearing and kicking things when the rim bead refuses to seat.
Hi. Your videos are great. Thanks to you.
i think air seal is the crucial part. my first setup failed because the seal between the valve and the rim tape was not adequate.
What do you do if air is leaking from the rim seam?
Really helpful. Great video. Thanks
Most problems been with that rimtape is not sticking good enaf to rim. That i have solved with innertube and smaller tyre with high presure overnight. That defenetly stick rimtape good, good, good.
To make the pump fit better without the valve core, you can use an old valve core and cut the stem inside. You’re left with only the shell of the valve core. You get great fit and great flow that way
just wondering: having real trouble getting any kind of pressure into the tire - it just seems so loose... my compressor runs out of air and there's no pressure at all. Before giving up for the day I removed the sealant ( which was all over the place already anyway)... but before trying the inner tube trick: Should I add sealant after the initial tube install - right after installing the valve back? Or should I try without sealant first?
Also: can the soapy water mix be from dishwasher liquid and how soapy should it be? Still watery or real soapy where you can feel the soap to the touch?
Sorry! Super novice here...
Hello, the tube trick does wonders. Remove the sealant, install the tube tire, break one side of the bead to get the tube out, put that side of the bead back on, remove valve core, attempt to inflate the tire(The valve core being out will allow more air flow), if it inflates get it to seat and then allow it to deflate, install sealant, reinstall valve core and inflate.
We would say go heavy on the soap. This gives it more sealing capability as it makes the fluid thicker.
Valves clogged with sealant. Remove the valve core and use a pipe cleaner in the valve to clean it out.
I've been using Tubeless for 5 years now. Bit of a learning curve, I must admit. Many ups and downs. Ups: zero stinkin tubes, few if any flats, great on ice and snow, no need for heavy spiked tires (use 29 x 2.35). Downs: varying degrees of maintenance from filling with air 2 or three times a week, to adding sealant and making a royal mess ( I tell the wife it was crow shit), but the last time I opened up the tire was the worst. The tire was stuck like never before. ( I think my mistake was not breaking the seal all way round before prying it open in one spot. ) In any case the tire stretched out of shape and wouldn't hold air. I thought it was trashed but because it was fairly new, I inserted an inner tube. It worked. End of story? Not quite. Being the glutton for punishment that I am, and the snow was melting, 2 months later, I went tubeless again, but following some of the tips in your helpful video. Although not perfect, it has got me back on track for the short term. Time will tell. What I got mostly from the video was a centered tire rim and waiting for a popping sound (have a double cannister floor pump) before making a mess with the sealant. In the past I found that correct seating rarely if ever happened on the first inflation.
Hello Bonjour , Good initiative , Thank you 🚴 👍😊🙋🙌✌
I just replaced my tire and it wouldn't hold air although it seated. So I tried remove the valve core and pushed air in with my compressor which worked, then before the air could leave I replaced the valve core. Seems to be working, I'll see how it held up in the morning.
Great video. Will a track pump work with these techniques too?
Often times it will. But in some cases high volume is needed.
Great video. How do you minimize valve core clogs? I am constantly loosing air from the core when topping off air. It seems the presta valve core is sticking due to clogs. Any ideas?
I find tubeless rim tape often comes away from the rim when removing a tyre. So always have a roll handy.
This only happened with Stans tubeless tape for me. It lacks a bit of sticking power IMO
This might get long, but I believe it's a good question that I haven't seen anyone go over, also something my local bike shop said.
I recently went to my local bike shop. I asked for advice on tubeless tape. I said something about getting tape 1 to 2mm wider than the internal rim width, he said he's never hear such a thing, he also said that there are only a few tape sizes, 21, 25, 35, and fat tire sizes. I just went along and said oh okay, knowing there are all sorts of sizes.
I have a 25mm internal width, he gave me a roll of 25mm mucoff tape.
I used the 25mm tape, and it does seat and hold air.
The tape is not seated in the radius channel well where the spokes go, it is only seated on the flats where the bead sits. It does not reach the vertical sidewall part of the rim. Will it be okay?
I had a 27mm tape, it was not sitting in the radius channel it was seated on the beat seat and slightly up the vertical sidewalls. I didn't like it, I have not been able to get a straight up answer on this aspect.
When I do try the seat it in the radius, there is so many air bubbles from the spoke holes, and it looked terrible.
I hear I should run a tube for a week and the air bubble will be gone and it will seat properly after when the tube is removed.
Do I get another 27 pull tight, not worry about the radius well, and just run it?
Or do I seat it in the radius channel and bead seat channel and not worry about the air bubbles?
What do I do?
The tape adhering to the drop channel/ valley of the rim is a benefit. A person may have great success seating the tire and using it without it adhered to the drop channel/ valley but it may not give enough drop for the tire during install or removal. Be sure to clean the rim well so that the adhesive can stick. Some tapes contour better than others as well. Some bubbles is to be expected. Once the tape seats into the drop channel/ valley it will take up some of the width and may pull the tape away from one or both edges and is why a wider tape is suggested. Rotating the wheel while pushing down hard with a rag helps seat the tape. Different tapes and rim profiles make for different results..... so, results may vary. Hope this helps.
@@parktool Yes it does. Thanks!
whats a good soap/detergent for a soapy water mix that works well, doesnt leave residue, doesnt whack up the rotor if it gets on the rotor?
We use tap water and a decent amount of Dawn dish detergent.
this is way better than GCN's junk!
Great advert for inner tubes.
Once you get good at tubeless setups and ride literally years without flats like I have, you'll be a convert. My only frustration is still having to stop frequently on group rides to help hold-out tube users repair their flats.
Here comes the onslaught of the same repetitive shit of “I don’t understand why you need tubeless” even when the reasons have been said thousands of times.
“If it doesn’t make sense to me it doesn’t make sense for anyone else”
Reminds me when I was working in a tyre and exhaust garage and we use spray tyre sealant on the bead of the tire and then sprayed it down onto the floor to light it with a lighter works every time 👍
I found that I had a air leak at the valve core of a cyclocross tire. Using the normal amount of sealant was not getting the system to hold air over time when I set it up the first install. Then I tried it again with significantly more sealant. It got the system to work now I have no more problems the tires can last weeks without losing air.
I got a stubborn tire which keeps losing air and yet no sealant comes out!
Fully inflate the tire and use some soapy water to find any leaking.
I'm new to tubeless and was wondering if it's normal for the tire to lose a few psi between rides? I ride everyday and am putting some air in before each ride. The tires are seated properly and I'm pretty sure I have added enough sealant. Just wanted to make sure! Thanks!!
yeah it is normal
That is fairly normal and it should stop loosing that much air as the tire takes on more sealant.
press hard on the tire sidewall. If you hear a hissing, your rim is undersized and you need to add more tape.
I had this happen once. I had an internal leak into a sealed wheel. Eventually I had some leaking around a couple nipples. Keep a close eye on your valve stem too. It turned out my tape was just not wide enough and I had leakage under the tape. Your tires should be seated on top of the tape.
What do you do on the road if the bead does not pop? Had this problem with road tyres and vision carbon rim.
Also, what happens when 12:27 you can’t brake the bead in the field?! You don’t have the special tools in the field to brake the bead. You have to rely on a tubeless repair kit to plug any leak/puncture because you can’t get the tyre off to insert a tube.
So just got brand new Vee Flow Snap Tackee TR Synthesis 27.5 x 2.6 Tires, install 1 of them on Sunrigle Duro40 rim that I did have a Maxxis DHR-2 on it tubeless no issues.
Flow Snap seated on the rim had a couple of pops and added 4oz of tubeless fluid, did about 40 shakes with the wheel and seems to hold air, but about 8 hours goes flat.
I sprayed soapy water on the bead and get small bubbles all the way around the wheel both sides, is the tire beard defective?
Interesting. More pressure while shaking may push the sealant into the bead more. You may also want to contact Vee or the seller to ask them. They will have more experience with that tire.
Best video in internet so far :)
I had never heard that explanation before for blowing out the side of a deep carbon fiber rim - leaked air under the tape. A bike shop mechanic had just told me about a wheel that had blown up while he worked on it in exactly the manner described. He just chose the first quasi-logical explanation, and blamed bad Chinese manufacturing processes.
I intend to let him know that it wasn't a bad wheel - more likely it was how he installed the tape and the external gasket on the valve stem.
I understand that more people will start using tubeless tyres
I sta with the innertvbe and tyre method. The rims on my bike are not designed for using tubeless tyres.
And the tyres I use is the Schwalbe marathon PLUS(37-622). This tyre is designed for use with innertube.
I always carry a Gaudi Ended tube with me. I once had to use a drinking pack to temporary seal the hole that I got with the blow-out.
After replacing the innertube with the ended tube, I was able to set the tyre on a low(er) pressure. I was able to cycle home in 1 hour.
Otherwise It would have taken 4 hours of walking to get home.
Hello, how much pressure drop is OK for tubeless use? For me it is roughly 0.5 Bar per week. Is it ok or do I have a problem somewhere? Thanks
0.5 drop (about 7 psi) is a common but also a bit much. Over inflate from where you ride, and use some soapy water to find bubbles at bead, valve and nipples. If air is escaping from sidewalls there is not much you can do.
@@parktool Thans, I will try it :-) greating from Czech Rep.
I’m going to use silicon on the valve stem. I’m tired up the leak.
How much loss of Airpressure is normal? - I loose about 1-2 psi per Day
That is fairly normal even on a tubed wheel.
My tubeless Maxis minion DHF was fine at install but 3 weeks after install I was at the downhill park and it went flat all the sudden. After re inflating I got another 3-4 lift served runs but this morning its flat again. I don't see any visible damage to the rim (my first thought) or to the tire itself (no visible active sealant leak). Any thoughts? I guess I'll try the soapy water method to see if I can find where the air is escaping now. Rear tire with same sealant and installed same day is fine.
You are on the right track looking where the air is coming out. The tape is my guess. You will notice air escaping from the valve or nipples if that is the case.
WTB sold me "tubless wheels and tires" and i equpiped it with stans no tubes sealant, valve and tape. the air was escaping through the gum wall of the tire.
great video
park tools is reading my mind somehow hmmm
Thanks for the video. After watching this, my cussing went down by 120 decibels.
So im having a bit of trouble with my gravel tyres. When i inflate them (got a little air pressure tank that i pump up manually) without the valve core, they seat perfectly, but when i remove the tube from the air tank and the air drains the beeds fall out again, so i cant seat it unless i leave the tank on. Any advice?
Have you tried seating it with your tank and the valve core in? If it would seat like that then it would stay inflated. It also sounds like the bead seat is not holding the tire very well. Are you using soapy water to help it into place?
Can you put a tube in the tubless tyres in and then just use sealant in the tube?.
You could, but you would not get the benefits of a tubeless system. Tubeless systems handle differently. Without an inner tube you can ride lower pressure for handling and not pinch an inner tube.
@@parktool Ok thanks for the info.
While installing freewheel it's thread wrong install ( mean it is little bit affended) and now it's thread is also slipped and vacillating
Could you make a video on how to build a road wheel with a 1 cross pattern ?
Same process you see here, just cross 1 spoke instead of 3 spokes.
I don't know who needs to read this, but *first check to make sure that your tire is a tubeless type* before spending 4 days trying all these methods and more to troubleshoot why it wont seat or leaks air when it does.
Your shop *also* might have sent you one tubeless and one tube-type tire whose boxes look virtually identical... : \
I've been using fatty strippers (yes, they are a real thing found outside of clubs, so get your minds out of the gutter) to seat fat bike tires for tubeless setup. They work amazing, and have made my most frustrating job just another day in the shop.
I have a 2024 Gaint TCR which came with tubeless set up/tubeless specific rims.
Using tubeless tyres/etc rear one has settled and sealed perfectly however front will not settle always leaks no matter what be completely flat within 24hrs. Bike shop has tried (bike only 3mths old) everything too (retape, different sealant/etc) they can’t solve either been told “that’s life, just have to live with it normal sometimes for a tubeless road tyre to stay up for more than 24hrs”.
Conclusion Road tubeless useless does not always work 😢 will have to indeed live with as the TCR based around tubeless now.
Begin with a diagnosis of the front issue. There are three possible sources of a leak in a good tire. The valve core may be leaking. The tire may be leaking along the bead. Or the rim tape may be bad. Begin with a spray bottle of soapy water and spray the bead of one side, fully inflated. Looks for obvious bubbles. Check the other side. Now spray the valve. If all is good, spray at the spoke nipples. This helps isolate the issue. If the rear seats well, so should the front.
You can't fix that dent or take it out of the rim?
So what do you do if you are 5 miles from the nearest road, and your new gravel bike has a puncture? Seems to me you need a tire plugging tool with slugs, and a C02 inflator and lots of extra C02 cartridges. The only difference is you dont need to replace the tube, Finding the hole might be a bitch too, which is why youre going to need 2 or more CO2 cartridges. I know they are supposed to have some sealant in there that should fill in the holes, but I've had flats from sheet-rock screws, chunks of metal the size and shape of a jackknife blade , shards of wood, giant shards of glass, ceramics and even chunks of lava punctures. I ride some roads along busy roads, not just perfect gravel. I am anticipating my first tire failure, and could use some advice? What tools do you carry?
Tire levers, an inflation device, a plug tool, tire boots and a tube should be able to fix almost any flat that you experience. At the very least tire levers, an inflation device and a tube.
@@parktoolTyre levers won’t help in the field if you can’t brake the bead first using your thumbs. If your tubeless plugs don’t seal the puncture/cut then you’re up #*% creek because you can’t insert a tube. Any tool suggestions for braking the beads in the field?
The carbon wheel issue is scary.
Happened to me but it wasn’t catastrophic. Sealant seeped out of cracks in the rim. Really spooky. Did not understand what happened. Rim manufacturer sent me a new rim but now we know it was user error by allowing a bad rim tape job to create leaks. In my view rim tape is the Achilles heel of tubeless systems especially high pressure road wheels. Using soapy water to detect leaks is critical! Great job Park Tool!!
If you install your rim tape wall to wall and put in a small piece of inner tube inside the valve-rim interface as a gasket, you are almost guaranteed to never run into this issue. Also, like the video said, don't use a rubber O ring on the outside of the rim.
@@404nobrakes Thank you! To be clear, the inner tube gasket goes between the valve and rim tape on the inside? Also I use those Enve nuts on outside of rim so as to allow air to escape if it breaches the rim tape. Tubeless rim tape (and probably application error) is the weak link in my experience.
Your better of brushing the foam of a soap mixture to the edge of the tire, it will not go iside the tire, and work even better. That way you dont get lots of soap water inside the tire. As this will change the properties of the sealent.
GP5000 TL and Bontrager Aeolus xxx --- What works for me:
Mount tire and put in sealer, a little more than 40miili liters. Hold wheel upright so sealant pools at the bottom. Squeeze the beads together so some sealant flows out and coats the beads. Rotate the wheel and repeat until all the around.
If some sealant spills out onto the sidewalls, that's OK. That is why I've put in extra - 10-20milli liter.
Once I have the beads coated this way, I am able to inflate and seat with my mini-pump!! YMMV
thanks
Thank you!
1:34 That's a sweet watch
awesome!
Seepage also happens if someone added sealant without shaking it up. This means you got lots of liquid but not much suspended rubber in there. It will seep like crazy and not seal well.