First off great video. I work at a bike shop and have done many setups. I have a few extra tips that might help those looking to tackle this. First off inflating the tire with a tube first is a great idea but you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you do your tubeless tape before doing this as the pressure in the tube will press the tape into the rim and create a better seal. Secondly, inflating the tire onto the bead before adding sealant will make less mess. The third is that the tip of most of those single dose bottles will fit directly into the valve once the core is removed, creating less mess again. Also those bottles when empty can be used to suck sealant out of a tire if you squeeze the air out of the bottle first. This creates less mess and allows you to reuse most of your old sealant when changing tires. Last but not least, for all those that complain this is a hassle, some tubes have a removable valve core and you can put a small amount of sealant inside to prevent slow leaks from thorns.
super counter intuitive but yea good to see, similar to a pinched O-ring. Also the extra compression when pressurized will add even more deformation causing it to leak more and more as you pump and pump. Can get super frustrating haha
For people who don’t have an air tank or compressor lying around and are pumping with a foot pump, get a sponge and soak it with water and dish soap. Apply the soapy water/sponge along the edge of the rim and tire (both side). Start pumping and watch the tire air up. There may or may not be a pop because of the soapy water but that is ok. If the air is staying in, the beads are seating. Magic... BTW, make sure your tire is mounted the correct direction for proper traction and performance.
To help put the hole in the right place in the tape for the valve, I used the valve itself from the inside of the rim to make a dimple in the tape, by gently pushing it in from inside, to locate where the tape should be pierced. you'll see exactly where it needs to be!
This us a good tutorial. Direction of rotation of the tyre is always important to note and fit onto the rim. We’ve all done an absolute great and neat job, just as we’re feeling smug about it, someone else points out that the tyre looks like it’s not facing the right direction Damn! Damn! Damn!
@@v.garcia9585 Did the same thing, you'll have to take a look at the valve stem rubber, and tape on the rim. Might have to replace both in worst case scenario.
I got to go with the tried and true chrome screw in metal automotive valve stem. And you tighten the valve stem tight and they last as long as your vehicle will. I will have to enlarge bike hole just a little.
I set my tyres up tubeless last week, new bike with tubeless ready tyres and rims, i thought why not. I got the joes kit off wiggle for about £17 thinking if it went wrong on my first try it wouldnt be too costly. Realy happy with them, thought id made a coblers of it at first cos i lost pressure over the first night, but after id been for a ride they seemed to settle in. Im surprised at the difference it makes, especially on cornering.
Folded tires was my problem, now solved tubeless completed. It worked for me to pass the tire tool a couple of times aiming to the folded areas until almost straight. Thanks for your video.
The trick with the silicone-polish worked for me really well (since I had one at home and I am working with only a handpump). My silicone-polish has a little sponge in the front so application is way less messy.
If you're having issues getting it to seat and have tried all the tricks. Try using a ratchet strap around the tire, it forces it up against the sidewall getting it to seat easy. Couldn't get a tire to seat, even with a compressor, soapy water, and the valve core out but the strap did it.
In theory you set it up once then ride it for 6-12 months without it puncturing and that is super attractive for a commuter bike. After getting two punctures in two weeks on my otherwise reliable commuter bike I'm thinking the initial hassle of going tubeless would be easily worth it.
@mstrbkr Seriously? lol. I had about 15 goatheads in my front and rear tires the other day. I pulled them all out and could hear the symphony of hissing. Just put my bike on the stand and spun the tires... all holes sealed. I pumped the tires up to 40psi and let them sit overnight. Still good, as always. With a tube, you'd have to remove both wheels, take off the tires, replace the tubes and reinstall everything. More time consuming and more expensive.
@@MrHeepspo Only to find out you still have goathead thorns inside your tires and have to pull them apart another time. I have had easy 100 goathead holes in a my tires once just riding over one abandoned lot to get to a local bike shop. I got to the shop and started seeing orange sealant coming out of zillion holes, they sealed up just fine. Tubeless has it's place if you ride in the desert SW of USA.
Try it out "dry" first! This way you can iron out any mistakes you are making before spilling all your milk everywhere. Once you got your tire seated without milk. Do it again with sealant.
I agree with above, get the tyre seated first, to add sealant after I remove the core of the valve then inject the sealant using a rockshox/sram syringe which screws into the valve. No mess.
As a rodie, most tires are not directional, and if they are and you don't have disc brakes at least the front can be put in either direction (and swap the skewer if the lever side bothers you). Thanks for the heads up for when I put my gravel bike together :)
Once I learned to take the valve core out, which interferes with a blast of air in to the tire, I never needed any other special tricks again. pull the pump chuck off and put the core back in.
What he said about over tightening the locknut on the valve is the number one problem I see when people bring wheels they are having issues with into the shop. If you do overtighten the valve and mess up the tape you don't neccesarily have to redu all the tape. You can clean the sealant off the tape really well by the valve hole with isopropyl alcohol. Then apply two more strips of tape going about 3 inches on either side of the valve hole. It helps to cut these tape patches narrower by just a few millimeters so you dont create issues with the tire seating. Patching the tape at the valve hole like this is not ideal and may not work but tubeless tape is expensive to be starting all over again. Also what he said about tape width. Some time's have an odd width that dosen't match all brands of tubless tape. Make sure you buy tape that is not too wide and will not bunch up on the inner side of the rim. It can make it a nightmare for the tire to seat.
Don't make the mistake of thinking because you put sealant in 12 months ago it's still effective..its dried out. At the beginning of every season re-fill the tire with sealant
I had problems with beading the tire up, so take presta valve out and us air compressor, with rubber tip air blower and gently blow air in valve hole being careful not to use to much air and just wait a few minutes it will pop on! I had a 8 way spoke wrench and found a square that fit prista valve perfect!
A few more - i couldn't seal my winter tires from last season - they were leaking air and compressor couldn't pressure it. What helped finally was dense soap foam (a lot of soap slices shaked with a few drops of water) - like a foam for a cake... once the tire seated in place it was perfectly sealed. My mistake - left the tire for months not removing old sealant - which is. As well significant weight penalty... 2nd - deep rim bed can cause a lot of issues - I am using softer and narrower tape to seal it and 2nd layer of wider once the 1st is pushed in (i.e. using pressure) 3rd - sealant differs (even the best well known). If your tubeless setup is running out of air quickly and the air is not leaking through the valve you may consider changing a sealant (it helped a few times with lite skin tires from schwalbe)
Soapy water works for me. Note not all tubeless valves have removable core (check first and if not, replace is my advice) and note that some rims want a valve with a particular seat profile
Be careful with too much pressure and overtightening the valve lock ring. I had tremendous problems getting my tires to hold air until I realized I was over-pressurizing them. The extra pressure caused air to push through the valve hole and distended the o-ring. Once the o-ring pushed its way past the lock ring, there was no way to keep the tires inflated. I also, in an effort to make sure the valve hole was sealed cranked down on the lock ring -- same thing happens: distorted o-ring and a big leak.
Project reworked my 2007 disc rims Schrader valve setup used motor cycle tube valves I used dremel to clean up and shape for rim valley. Used windshield sealant at 1 inch tape penetration. Added some sealant I found then inflated to 60 to 65 pounds let sit over night slowly roll the tire to get sealant every inch of tire then flip a few times check tire pressure a few times if still hard flip a few more times roll then let sit.
Make sure the valve is centred in the middle of the tyre logo. A spare link from a SRAM 1 x 11 chain is the perfect size for a valve core remover. Male link in the centre.
Sorry man, but the last step is a horrible fuckup, putting the sealant in, without fitting the tyre on the rim and then having the sealant pissing all over the place: 1st put the tyre on the rim 2nd remove the valve core 3rd burst some air into it, let the bead pop on the rim 4th release the air 5th apply sealant through the the valve (no special tool needed, i.e. Stans 2oz bottles have perfect shape to be used for that) 6th put the valve core back 7th spin the mutharfucker couple of times 8th pump it up to some 40psi 9th spin it again 10th take the bike for a ride so the sealant spreads properly Works like a charm every time, without tire cum spraying all over the shop... #Tubes4life
I have not done this yet but was thinking the same. Searched lots of videos only to find your post. If you’re relying on the sealant to fix poor bead fit, then that tyre will leak riding. I’m going to clean the 6 month old sealant and shop fitted tyres, pop cleaned tyre back on without the core. Inflate to pop bead back and check for leaks or bad fit. Deflate. Add sealant. Inflate and check for leaks. Ride bike round the block. Leave for 24hrs and check pressure and top air. Then ride that Mutherfuka! 👊🏼
I don't like sheep jizz all over my tools either, my method is pretty much this except that you can pinch the tyre sidewall and rock the wheel to the side to put the bead closer to seating before you start pumping. I don't bother with tubeless inflators, even without sealant. A low-volume, high pressure pump can supply enough volume for all the combos I've tried with pretty minimal effort. Once you've inflated dry you can pop a section of one bead to add fluid again, roll the open section to the top and reseat easily with no mess - if your sealant prefers not to go through valve stems, or if you've misplaced the remover/needle nosed pliers.
I've been using a bit of sealant on tire trick to put them on for years and this is the first video that mentions this. Never wanted any damn soapy water in my tires.
Several months ago I went to a bicycle shop that according to yelp and even trip adviser was awarded 5 stars, but when my tubeless tire kept pancaking, and they kept telling me that it'll be fine ...that was I decided to do my own work. And I'll be honest ...the videos that point out often made mistakes AND how to make them right are helping the most. As far as I know --there doesn't seem to be any certified training(aka tech schools or colleges) when it comes to bicycle repair, so the only way to learn, is to simply get out there & DIY. Plus if you're into touring like me, that's even more the reason to DIY, because they don't call it "in middle of nowhere" for nothing.
If your rim has vent holes and you get air leaking out of them, check that your rim tape is good. Also, check that you have a good seal between the rim tape/strip and the valve. For Bontragers with rim strips, an o-ring is needed to be on the valve when its put through the rim strip. The o-ring compresses against the valve and the rim strip. Without a good valve/rim tape seal, you will lose air through the outside of the valve. If your rim has vent holes, then the air will go out that way. For rims that has the valve hole at an angle to the valve centerline, you need to get a little creative. Normally, the valve centerline is 90degrees to the valve hole, but if the hole is drilled at an angle, even with a rubber cone on the valve, you won't be able to adequately seal the valve against the rim. You would need an o-ring that thicker on one side and thinner on the other. You can use Shoe Goo and build up the valve seal to the rim tape Building up this seal takes time for Shoe Goo to dry. Take this time to come up with a conical wedge to put on the valve on the outside. Find a spout that starts out wide and narrows down . You will cut the wide side at an angle that matches your rim, and the narrow side, you cut square/straight. This straight side will be against the valve nut.
if you have sealant leaking round the spokes... Bouncing the tire can help. Get enough air into the tire and it'll bounce, just like a basketball. Rotate the tire 360 degrees as you do keep bouncing. This will cause the sealant to coat the tape and plug any small gaps between the tape and the wheel.
I have an old rear wheel with a mystery freehub make thats busted, I use that to stretch out tyres with a inner tube prior to fitting on my good wheels
Great tips, just found your channel along with GMBN. I am making the transition to tubeless, after being out of the sport for a while. Tech has changed radically since I was active. I am refurbishing some of my old equipment, that has sadly been collecting dust for around a decade or more. I have an olds-cool, Ibis Szazbo (1997) with a Zokie Bomber fork that I am swapping out for a triple tree model. My old 1st Gen Hayes disc brakes are out, for a Magura setup. I am replacing my old SRAM Grip Shift with newer SRAM GX 2x10 rear, a new chain and rear stack. ditching the front triple for a single 34T. Thanx for the tips, again. If I may, I would like to offer a tip in turn. In those close ups, you are always looking off camera, bad form. Always look INTO the camera. Peace, Wolf
hello, replying to old video. i'm glad i watch this before tightening down the valve nut. i have the stans tubeless valves, doesn't come with an o-ring either. i was under impression that the o-ring was to keep the nut from loosening and to keep valve from vibrating on the rim, and keep from scratching carbon rim (is this a nonissue? w/o o-ring?) when i tighten finger tight, the valve still can wiggle a little. i feel like it will rattle when riding as well. will this be an issue or will the air pressure be enough to keep it from rattling? thank you!
kitchen towel as much as you can , wash out with warm water, kitchen towel again, leave overnight to dry out, kitchen towel again. Worked for me on a friends set up where he'd used some horrible blue stuff, that was sticking the sidewalls together.
What you say it’s a big difference if my rims are not rubles ready but my tires are....I’m Wondering if I should give it a go....a new set of rims is pretty expensive
One thing not mentioned is the problem l have which is air coming out from the spoke nipples. After a bit of reading I think it might be due to over-tightening the valve meaning the valve is pulled too far down leading to air coming in to the cavity in the rim. This was kind of mentioned in the video but not in this exact sense. I still have to check if this is actually what happened in my case but hopefully the info is helpful for others anyway.
I personally don't like using a knife to make the hole, because the tape can split. I use an awl and then widen the hold a little bit with a round file (chainsaw file) so that it is still snug when it goes in.
Nice video! Was hoping u guys could do a video on how to unblock valve cores. After having sealant in my tires for awhile, my valve cores tend to block up with dry sealant. Wondering what the best way is to unblock them without removing the tire?
Great video. I have just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info? Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
I have just recently purchased a mtb. I haven't had to use a bike since the 70's as a child. I live in the west texas desert, many little sharp things, not so much on the road buy still, they are unavoidable. I've tried to understand by the comments but, as someone new to this, I don't know who is correct. My bike is a Schwinn abbott(shimano) full suspension 29inch 21 speed. Walmart bike but it's what i can afford. I want to know if tubeless, that's how it came, if i get a puncture, is fixing it the same as repairing the tube, but from the inside?
Isopropyl (or “IPA”, 60% and up, or wipe twice) is good enough, as would be Spiritus meant for cosmetics. Brake cleaner could be a mixture of heaver alcohols, usually Heptane and up. Don't use it with carbon as it might damage its surface, and best-case the tape just won't stick. Use cloth, like an old but smooth sock or napkin, no paper towel or the like.
i've found applying a second or third layer of rim tape does the trick with my rims and minion DHR and DHF combos. then use CO2 canisters to pop the bead
My 650B 2.8 minions went on like butter, I just had to go around each side of the tire stretching the sidewall lightly towards the bead seat, I used spoke spacing kinda naturally and it was more than enough to seat the bead with a floor pump with no drama. I did the same with WTB Rangers, although they required some minor drama on the floor pump. I use two thin layers of kapton tape, unobstructed drop center so the tires fly on and off with no lever. I didn't even put sealant in for several rides on the minions, they held so well I considered not adding sealant!
seating the bead question: should you hear 1 pop or 2 pops (one for each side) or will there be multiple pops (different locations around the tire, dependent on the tire rim combination)
@@MBRmagazine another question: I did a dry run, the bead is seated. I am noticing a lot bubbles with soapy water at the nipples. Is this normal, before adding sealant? My inner rim width is 19mm, I applied 23mm tape because I have really deep channels to make sure the should is covered with tape. I applied to 2x rounds to tubless tape and made sure no bubbles, made the hole smaller than valve
Need Advice. My tire is beaded correctly (holds air). I ride at 40 PSI. There was a small section where the sealant stops air from leaking through the bead, the issue is when I land a jump or have a descent impact the seal from the sealant breaks and sealant pops out. It re-seals but in a single trip I can lose 5 to 10 PSI from this. Is this normal or whats the way to fix it?
Steven S you always get some leakage from sealant that gets pushed out as the bead seats, provided you took his advice and added sealant around the bead, an idea I approve of
@@Hirotoro4692 no. Set the bead first, take the valve core off and get sealant through the valve base, put the core back on and pump the tire more if you need to.
After fighting and fighting with tubeless.. In the end the best purchase I made was just paying for a compressor. I may end up having to repeat a fitment but at least I havnt worn myself out while doing it. You can get some for the same price as the blaster bottles!!! So many 2nd hand ones around as well for so cheap!
I've watched a few vids on going tubeless, but no one has covered sorting out a tubeles setup when there appears to be a minor puncture somewhere! Should I just deflate, inject more sealant, re-inflate and check air pressure again after an hour or so???
If you've punctured the tyre and it's not sealing (it should be obvious where the hole is because the sealant will leak out) then you'll need to try and fix the hole with a tubless bung. These are short strips of rubber you glue into place that seal the hole.
I have a pair of wheels that tubeless ready and I have been using tubeless tires with sealant for over a year. I bought recently a new set of tires (also tubeless) but I realised there's a leak. Shall I change the rim tape? Or will running with inner tubes for a bit seal the leak and I can remove the inner tube later on?
I’m converting my non/tubeless rims into tubeless. I have noticed they have little weep holes here and there. Will they affect the wheel , if so, is there anything I can do to close them up? Thanks for the informative video.
Bret Leversha you probably found out by now but don’t worry, the sealant will eventually fill them. You will need to add more than recommended but otherwise it’s fine.
Bret Leversha did you get them up enough to ride on? Usually that helps slop the sealant about and push it into any gaps. I’ve got some really old tyres you can see the thread and they need a quick few pumps once a week ... but they are fine when riding (other than having no grip left)
The valve seals that I have and came with the bike are of a rectangular shape, which direction is best to insert them. Do they go perpendicular to the sides of the rim or do they sit in the wheel well?
I'm from the Philippines and I'm wondering which tire sealant (hopefully Stan's sealants), how about running tubeless tires (for comparison on Maxxis & Schwalbe) on a DYNO (for cars) @ 30PSI & see how long it can hold on. If Stan's hold on the longest, then I DEFINITELY will use what you recommend. Thanks!
Orange seal is better than stan's IMHO. I had a bottle of stans go bad in my garage in a year and would not work. Since switching to orange seal, never have issues with old sealant failing to seal.
what about the tyre seating then after deflation unseating again, with the same pop as it went on Giant rims and 3 types of tyre including Giant's own none of them stay seated
can i use motorcycle valve on bike rim??? because i want to pump air easily cause its compatible on any gasoline station there is air pump for motorcycle/cars…
Some rims accept a Shraeder valve, but not many on high performance MTBs. However, you can buy a cheap and simple adaptor that will let you use a garage inflator on a presta valve. Just be careful not to exceed the safe pressure.
Gorilla tape goes on nice but as soon as you scratch the black surface off it is no longer air tight. It is easy to scratch with tyre levers or just the friction of the tyre bead seating.
First off great video. I work at a bike shop and have done many setups. I have a few extra tips that might help those looking to tackle this. First off inflating the tire with a tube first is a great idea but you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you do your tubeless tape before doing this as the pressure in the tube will press the tape into the rim and create a better seal. Secondly, inflating the tire onto the bead before adding sealant will make less mess. The third is that the tip of most of those single dose bottles will fit directly into the valve once the core is removed, creating less mess again. Also those bottles when empty can be used to suck sealant out of a tire if you squeeze the air out of the bottle first. This creates less mess and allows you to reuse most of your old sealant when changing tires. Last but not least, for all those that complain this is a hassle, some tubes have a removable valve core and you can put a small amount of sealant inside to prevent slow leaks from thorns.
I'm doing this conversion, can I use a tubeless Schrader valve instead of a presta valve?
@@obadaalomari1821 Nope. [actually you can, but it is very hard to find+buy the right value - so "nope"]
Obada Alomari Yes you can , Nutrack do schrader tubeless valves, available from any shop with a Madison account.
I did my 1st tubeless today & had no issues. If you have the right products its a simple job. Just take your time!
i always seat the tyre without sealant then i release the air out of it before i fill it through the valve with sealant.
no mess and Super easy
I didn’t know the valve lock ring could be too tight. Thanks for the great tips and video.
super counter intuitive but yea good to see, similar to a pinched O-ring. Also the extra compression when pressurized will add even more deformation causing it to leak more and more as you pump and pump. Can get super frustrating haha
For people who don’t have an air tank or compressor lying around and are pumping with a foot pump, get a sponge and soak it with water and dish soap. Apply the soapy water/sponge along the edge of the rim and tire (both side). Start pumping and watch the tire air up. There may or may not be a pop because of the soapy water but that is ok. If the air is staying in, the beads are seating. Magic...
BTW, make sure your tire is mounted the correct direction for proper traction and performance.
Can I do this with my tire mounted or do I have to pull it off my front fork
To help put the hole in the right place in the tape for the valve, I used the valve itself from the inside of the rim to make a dimple in the tape, by gently pushing it in from inside, to locate where the tape should be pierced. you'll see exactly where it needs to be!
This us a good tutorial. Direction of rotation of the tyre is always important to note and fit onto the rim. We’ve all done an absolute great and neat job, just as we’re feeling smug about it, someone else points out that the tyre looks like it’s not facing the right direction Damn! Damn! Damn!
Lol. I just found out why my valve kept leaking. I thought tightening it down harder would make it stop leaking. Top tips mate.
Can you correct this once it's done? I overtightened and caused the leak, but now even when I loosen up it's still leaking.
@@v.garcia9585 Did the same thing, you'll have to take a look at the valve stem rubber, and tape on the rim. Might have to replace both in worst case scenario.
I got to go with the tried and true chrome screw in metal automotive valve stem. And you tighten the valve stem tight and they last as long as your vehicle will. I will have to enlarge bike hole just a little.
I set my tyres up tubeless last week, new bike with tubeless ready tyres and rims, i thought why not. I got the joes kit off wiggle for about £17 thinking if it went wrong on my first try it wouldnt be too costly. Realy happy with them, thought id made a coblers of it at first cos i lost pressure over the first night, but after id been for a ride they seemed to settle in. Im surprised at the difference it makes, especially on cornering.
Folded tires was my problem, now solved tubeless completed. It worked for me to pass the tire tool a couple of times aiming to the folded areas until almost straight. Thanks for your video.
The trick with the silicone-polish worked for me really well (since I had one at home and I am working with only a handpump).
My silicone-polish has a little sponge in the front so application is way less messy.
If you're having issues getting it to seat and have tried all the tricks. Try using a ratchet strap around the tire, it forces it up against the sidewall getting it to seat easy. Couldn't get a tire to seat, even with a compressor, soapy water, and the valve core out but the strap did it.
Agreed, I use a ratchet strap for tubeless hand truck tires as well, which can be a real bitch to reseat. It's a great trick.
In theory you set it up once then ride it for 6-12 months without it puncturing and that is super attractive for a commuter bike. After getting two punctures in two weeks on my otherwise reliable commuter bike I'm thinking the initial hassle of going tubeless would be easily worth it.
@mstrbkr Seriously? lol. I had about 15 goatheads in my front and rear tires the other day. I pulled them all out and could hear the symphony of hissing. Just put my bike on the stand and spun the tires... all holes sealed. I pumped the tires up to 40psi and let them sit overnight. Still good, as always.
With a tube, you'd have to remove both wheels, take off the tires, replace the tubes and reinstall everything. More time consuming and more expensive.
@@MrHeepspo Only to find out you still have goathead thorns inside your tires and have to pull them apart another time. I have had easy 100 goathead holes in a my tires once just riding over one abandoned lot to get to a local bike shop. I got to the shop and started seeing orange sealant coming out of zillion holes, they sealed up just fine. Tubeless has it's place if you ride in the desert SW of USA.
The silicone is a great tip. It worked!
i’m so glad Vision was available to help with this video
Try it out "dry" first! This way you can iron out any mistakes you are making before spilling all your milk everywhere. Once you got your tire seated without milk. Do it again with sealant.
I agree with above, get the tyre seated first, to add sealant after I remove the core of the valve then inject the sealant using a rockshox/sram syringe which screws into the valve. No mess.
This is how I do it and has worked well for me on all of my bikes with different sizes and widths (26", 29", 27.5", skinny, fat, and plus).
Why are you calling it milk? Most sealant brands are bright colours like orange or green. Doc blue is white, though.
Possibly because there is no crying over spilt milk.
stan's sealant looks like cream
Make sure your tyre is on the right way round... ie rolling direction before you inflate 🤔
Cycle London iv made this mistake a load of times..some disaster
Nothing like finally getting your second bitchy tubeless tire setup just to realize you're about to have to redo it lol.
Exactly. Learnt this the hard way today.
As a rodie, most tires are not directional, and if they are and you don't have disc brakes at least the front can be put in either direction (and swap the skewer if the lever side bothers you). Thanks for the heads up for when I put my gravel bike together :)
I wish I could watch this before working on my bike tires for the first time! I almost faced with all of these problems:) Thanks for the video!
Thanks a lot, my problem was leaking air from valve, probably i'm overtigh the valve too much. I need to try again with your advice.
Very well-done tutorial. Loved the tips. Thanks!
Once I learned to take the valve core out, which interferes with a blast of air in to the tire, I never needed any other special tricks again. pull the pump chuck off and put the core back in.
What he said about over tightening the locknut on the valve is the number one problem I see when people bring wheels they are having issues with into the shop. If you do overtighten the valve and mess up the tape you don't neccesarily have to redu all the tape. You can clean the sealant off the tape really well by the valve hole with isopropyl alcohol. Then apply two more strips of tape going about 3 inches on either side of the valve hole. It helps to cut these tape patches narrower by just a few millimeters so you dont create issues with the tire seating. Patching the tape at the valve hole like this is not ideal and may not work but tubeless tape is expensive to be starting all over again. Also what he said about tape width. Some time's have an odd width that dosen't match all brands of tubless tape. Make sure you buy tape that is not too wide and will not bunch up on the inner side of the rim. It can make it a nightmare for the tire to seat.
Don't make the mistake of thinking because you put sealant in 12 months ago it's still effective..its dried out. At the beginning of every season re-fill the tire with sealant
I have always used electrical insulating tape and cheap and no weight and does a great job.
I had problems with beading the tire up, so take presta valve out and us air compressor, with rubber tip air blower and gently blow air in valve hole being careful not to use to much air and just wait a few minutes it will pop on! I had a 8 way spoke wrench and found a square that fit prista valve perfect!
A few more
- i couldn't seal my winter tires from last season - they were leaking air and compressor couldn't pressure it. What helped finally was dense soap foam (a lot of soap slices shaked with a few drops of water) - like a foam for a cake... once the tire seated in place it was perfectly sealed. My mistake - left the tire for months not removing old sealant - which is. As well significant weight penalty...
2nd - deep rim bed can cause a lot of issues - I am using softer and narrower tape to seal it and 2nd layer of wider once the 1st is pushed in (i.e. using pressure)
3rd - sealant differs (even the best well known). If your tubeless setup is running out of air quickly and the air is not leaking through the valve you may consider changing a sealant (it helped a few times with lite skin tires from schwalbe)
great video, running tubeless for many years but still glad to hear new tricks.
Thanks for the tips, it definitely helped out and made it easier.
Cheers
A tip i picked up from other video to assist the Rim tape for better adhesion is to refit old tyre and tube inflate and leave overnight
Soapy water works for me. Note not all tubeless valves have removable core (check first and if not, replace is my advice) and note that some rims want a valve with a particular seat profile
Be careful with too much pressure and overtightening the valve lock ring. I had tremendous problems getting my tires to hold air until I realized I was over-pressurizing them. The extra pressure caused air to push through the valve hole and distended the o-ring. Once the o-ring pushed its way past the lock ring, there was no way to keep the tires inflated. I also, in an effort to make sure the valve hole was sealed cranked down on the lock ring -- same thing happens: distorted o-ring and a big leak.
So, did you have to replace the o'ring? I don't think I even saw the guy in the video use the o-ring. Was wondering if it was even necessary. Thanks
I am always going to use a soldering iron to get my hole in the tape. Works reals good so far and needs no big force.
Brilliant video and love the tips and tricks as well as alternative products such as the gorilla tape and silicone polish. Thank you!
One tip for you is fairy washing up liquid bubbles. Rub onto bead before a rush of compressed air and hey presto its seated.! Great vid
Project reworked my 2007 disc rims Schrader valve setup used motor cycle tube valves I used dremel to clean up and shape for rim valley. Used windshield sealant at 1 inch tape penetration. Added some sealant I found then inflated to 60 to 65 pounds let sit over night slowly roll the tire to get sealant every inch of tire then flip a few times check tire pressure a few times if still hard flip a few more times roll then let sit.
Make sure the valve is centred in the middle of the tyre logo.
A spare link from a SRAM 1 x 11 chain is the perfect size for a valve core remover. Male link in the centre.
@John Seba Style points.
This videos incredibly helpful. Thanks mate
+1.25 playback speed makes this easier to watch.
2x
So much easier
I think this is good overall.
Saves time.
Thanks for that idea.
If this guy has a spirit animal, it's a sloth.
I didn't mind it how it was :')
Sorry man, but the last step is a horrible fuckup, putting the sealant in, without fitting the tyre on the rim and then having the sealant pissing all over the place:
1st put the tyre on the rim
2nd remove the valve core
3rd burst some air into it, let the bead pop on the rim
4th release the air
5th apply sealant through the the valve (no special tool needed, i.e. Stans 2oz bottles have perfect shape to be used for that)
6th put the valve core back
7th spin the mutharfucker couple of times
8th pump it up to some 40psi
9th spin it again
10th take the bike for a ride so the sealant spreads properly
Works like a charm every time, without tire cum spraying all over the shop...
#Tubes4life
Only way to do it !
Well said
I have not done this yet but was thinking the same. Searched lots of videos only to find your post.
If you’re relying on the sealant to fix poor bead fit, then that tyre will leak riding. I’m going to clean the 6 month old sealant and shop fitted tyres, pop cleaned tyre back on without the core. Inflate to pop bead back and check for leaks or bad fit. Deflate. Add sealant. Inflate and check for leaks. Ride bike round the block. Leave for 24hrs and check pressure and top air. Then ride that Mutherfuka! 👊🏼
I love it when the comments are much better than the tutorial itself. This video would've been a total waste of time without your comment!
I don't like sheep jizz all over my tools either, my method is pretty much this except that you can pinch the tyre sidewall and rock the wheel to the side to put the bead closer to seating before you start pumping. I don't bother with tubeless inflators, even without sealant. A low-volume, high pressure pump can supply enough volume for all the combos I've tried with pretty minimal effort. Once you've inflated dry you can pop a section of one bead to add fluid again, roll the open section to the top and reseat easily with no mess - if your sealant prefers not to go through valve stems, or if you've misplaced the remover/needle nosed pliers.
Nice Opinel! Love those light knifes!
Have to agree 👍 simple, safe and a must in any all day kit bag
I don't know about the UK, but brake cleaner in the US is definitely NOT the same as isopropyl.
Atlas WalkedAway depends on brand. Some are quite nasty to get on the skin.
I've been using a bit of sealant on tire trick to put them on for years and this is the first video that mentions this. Never wanted any damn soapy water in my tires.
OI MATE, YOU GOT A LOICENSE FOR THAT KNIFE?
Knoife*
Great informative video.
"A complete doddle..." Imma have to use that word one day lol
Imho valves made out of inner tubes are the best. u can custom it to ur rim and have the best seal. The best part, they are free!
Looked good. Didn't understand why he was spinning tyre and sloshing it about before it was beaded though... Surely that's gonna get messy? Thanks
Several months ago I went to a bicycle shop that according to yelp and even trip adviser was awarded 5 stars, but when my tubeless tire kept pancaking, and they kept telling me that it'll be fine ...that was I decided to do my own work. And I'll be honest ...the videos that point out often made mistakes AND how to make them right are helping the most. As far as I know --there doesn't seem to be any certified training(aka tech schools or colleges) when it comes to bicycle repair, so the only way to learn, is to simply get out there & DIY. Plus if you're into touring like me, that's even more the reason to DIY, because they don't call it "in middle of nowhere" for nothing.
If your rim has vent holes and you get air leaking out of them, check that your rim tape is good. Also, check that you have a good seal between the rim tape/strip and the valve. For Bontragers with rim strips, an o-ring is needed to be on the valve when its put through the rim strip. The o-ring compresses against the valve and the rim strip. Without a good valve/rim tape seal, you will lose air through the outside of the valve. If your rim has vent holes, then the air will go out that way.
For rims that has the valve hole at an angle to the valve centerline, you need to get a little creative. Normally, the valve centerline is 90degrees to the valve hole, but if the hole is drilled at an angle, even with a rubber cone on the valve, you won't be able to adequately seal the valve against the rim. You would need an o-ring that thicker on one side and thinner on the other. You can use Shoe Goo and build up the valve seal to the rim tape Building up this seal takes time for Shoe Goo to dry. Take this time to come up with a conical wedge to put on the valve on the outside. Find a spout that starts out wide and narrows down . You will cut the wide side at an angle that matches your rim, and the narrow side, you cut square/straight. This straight side will be against the valve nut.
if you have sealant leaking round the spokes... Bouncing the tire can help. Get enough air into the tire and it'll bounce, just like a basketball. Rotate the tire 360 degrees as you do keep bouncing. This will cause the sealant to coat the tape and plug any small gaps between the tape and the wheel.
I have an old rear wheel with a mystery freehub make thats busted, I use that to stretch out tyres with a inner tube prior to fitting on my good wheels
Use a little RTV sealant on the rubber boot of the valve as well as an o ring on the other side
Great tips, just found your channel along with GMBN. I am making the transition to tubeless, after being out of the sport for a while. Tech has changed radically since I was active. I am refurbishing some of my old equipment, that has sadly been collecting dust for around a decade or more. I have an olds-cool, Ibis Szazbo (1997) with a Zokie Bomber fork that I am swapping out for a triple tree model. My old 1st Gen Hayes disc brakes are out, for a Magura setup. I am replacing my old SRAM Grip Shift with newer SRAM GX 2x10 rear, a new chain and rear stack. ditching the front triple for a single 34T.
Thanx for the tips, again. If I may, I would like to offer a tip in turn. In those close ups, you are always looking off camera, bad form. Always look INTO the camera.
Peace, Wolf
hello, replying to old video. i'm glad i watch this before tightening down the valve nut. i have the stans tubeless valves, doesn't come with an o-ring either. i was under impression that the o-ring was to keep the nut from loosening and to keep valve from vibrating on the rim, and keep from scratching carbon rim (is this a nonissue? w/o o-ring?) when i tighten finger tight, the valve still can wiggle a little. i feel like it will rattle when riding as well. will this be an issue or will the air pressure be enough to keep it from rattling? thank you!
Very informative video, thanks! How does one go about removing old/dried sealant from inside the rim and tyre?
kitchen towel as much as you can , wash out with warm water, kitchen towel again, leave overnight to dry out, kitchen towel again. Worked for me on a friends set up where he'd used some horrible blue stuff, that was sticking the sidewalls together.
There’s gotta be away to elimate air tires need something strong enough for adults weight but soft enough for a comfortable ride
Cushcore
Trying to inflate my tubeless tyre dry with a co2 inflator tried everything can't get air into it grrrr nice vid👍
Co2 makes sealant go off faster, don’t use it.
Great useful and detailed video. Keep them coming.
i found putting the rim between you feet and give it a tight pull and follow it around keeping that tention and over lap and youll have no probs
In regards to Tip 1, what about keeping your tire outdoors in the hot sun for an afternoon? Would the heat help to soften up the kinks in the bead??
Excellent point...what was I thinking???
What you say it’s a big difference if my rims are not rubles ready but my tires are....I’m
Wondering if I should give it a go....a new set of rims is pretty expensive
One thing not mentioned is the problem l have which is air coming out from the spoke nipples. After a bit of reading I think it might be due to over-tightening the valve meaning the valve is pulled too far down leading to air coming in to the cavity in the rim. This was kind of mentioned in the video but not in this exact sense.
I still have to check if this is actually what happened in my case but hopefully the info is helpful for others anyway.
I personally don't like using a knife to make the hole, because the tape can split. I use an awl and then widen the hold a little bit with a round file (chainsaw file) so that it is still snug when it goes in.
Nice video! Was hoping u guys could do a video on how to unblock valve cores. After having sealant in my tires for awhile, my valve cores tend to block up with dry sealant. Wondering what the best way is to unblock them without removing the tire?
replace them when clogged
Can't wait for new technology to make this process a thing of amusing past
Opinel No.7... Classic!
If there is one thing I like its a clean rim.
Amen! lol
Advice for life, really.
Great stuff. Really learnt a lot from that.
learned* tard
@@crimescene25 Look in the Oxford Dictionary. It can be either.
Thanks for your great advises
Thanks for that video! Now I know why I should use soap water. For some reason nobody told about it
Great video. I have just bought my other half a Trek Neo with Bontrager LT2 Comp 700x32 tyres on Bontrager TLR rims . I want to fit the widest tyre on this rim and go Tubeless but cannot find any info?
Can you please advise. thanks and have a good New Year
Great tutorial, thanks.
guyd4067 ii
Do you think a heat gun could help with seating the tape really good
eric no, it could melt the tape and possibly damage the rim.
Hello, Great video! In asking how much air pressure can the Gorilla handle. My tires are rated at 115 PSI? Thanks
We probably wouldn't recommend putting 115psi in any bike tyre! Most riders run max 30psi in a mountain bike tyre.
I have just recently purchased a mtb. I haven't had to use a bike since the 70's as a child. I live in the west texas desert, many little sharp things, not so much on the road buy still, they are unavoidable. I've tried to understand by the comments but, as someone new to this, I don't know who is correct. My bike is a Schwinn abbott(shimano) full suspension 29inch 21 speed. Walmart bike but it's what i can afford. I want to know if tubeless, that's how it came, if i get a puncture, is fixing it the same as repairing the tube, but from the inside?
If there's enough sealant inside the tire,just adding in the proper air pressure should allow the sealant to fill the puncture.Happy Trails.
Wait for me,I have to change the fluid in my tires.Never thought I would say that.
Great video. No need to apologize for carrying a knife. It’s a useful tool...forget about the weenies
Great video i watched the whole thing!
Isopropyl (or “IPA”, 60% and up, or wipe twice) is good enough, as would be Spiritus meant for cosmetics. Brake cleaner could be a mixture of heaver alcohols, usually Heptane and up. Don't use it with carbon as it might damage its surface, and best-case the tape just won't stick. Use cloth, like an old but smooth sock or napkin, no paper towel or the like.
i've found applying a second or third layer of rim tape does the trick with my rims and minion DHR and DHF combos. then use CO2 canisters to pop the bead
Marvin Amarille CO2 will damage most of the sealants... Use compressor
666mcc ah this is just to seat the bead. Once seated I remove the co2, add sealant then pump it up with my track pump. All through the valve
My 650B 2.8 minions went on like butter, I just had to go around each side of the tire stretching the sidewall lightly towards the bead seat, I used spoke spacing kinda naturally and it was more than enough to seat the bead with a floor pump with no drama. I did the same with WTB Rangers, although they required some minor drama on the floor pump.
I use two thin layers of kapton tape, unobstructed drop center so the tires fly on and off with no lever. I didn't even put sealant in for several rides on the minions, they held so well I considered not adding sealant!
For the 3mm vinyl tape like stan's, yes 2-3 wraps, but gorilla tape is thicker and stickier so just one wrap.
Thanks for the info, ole chap!
seating the bead question: should you hear 1 pop or 2 pops (one for each side) or will there be multiple pops (different locations around the tire, dependent on the tire rim combination)
It can be any number of pops or even none at all. 👍
@@MBRmagazine another question: I did a dry run, the bead is seated. I am noticing a lot bubbles with soapy water at the nipples. Is this normal, before adding sealant? My inner rim width is 19mm, I applied 23mm tape because I have really deep channels to make sure the should is covered with tape. I applied to 2x rounds to tubless tape and made sure no bubbles, made the hole smaller than valve
Need Advice.
My tire is beaded correctly (holds air). I ride at 40 PSI. There was a small section where the sealant stops air from leaking through the bead, the issue is when I land a jump or have a descent impact the seal from the sealant breaks and sealant pops out. It re-seals but in a single trip I can lose 5 to 10 PSI from this. Is this normal or whats the way to fix it?
I’ve asked my local bike shop to set up my new bike tubeless but not sure I’ve made the right decision what do you guys think
17:17 and that's what happens when you spin your sealant-filled wheel around before seating the bead :-/
Steven S you always get some leakage from sealant that gets pushed out as the bead seats, provided you took his advice and added sealant around the bead, an idea I approve of
@@Hirotoro4692 Nope, not really. You can seat the bead first and that prevents pretty much all the sealant from seeping out.
@@Hirotoro4692 no. Set the bead first, take the valve core off and get sealant through the valve base, put the core back on and pump the tire more if you need to.
After fighting and fighting with tubeless.. In the end the best purchase I made was just paying for a compressor. I may end up having to repeat a fitment but at least I havnt worn myself out while doing it. You can get some for the same price as the blaster bottles!!! So many 2nd hand ones around as well for so cheap!
Wow they let you have assult pocket knifes over the pond? Surprisingly lmao
I've watched a few vids on going tubeless, but no one has covered sorting out a tubeles setup when there appears to be a minor puncture somewhere! Should I just deflate, inject more sealant, re-inflate and check air pressure again after an hour or so???
If you've punctured the tyre and it's not sealing (it should be obvious where the hole is because the sealant will leak out) then you'll need to try and fix the hole with a tubless bung. These are short strips of rubber you glue into place that seal the hole.
I have a pair of wheels that tubeless ready and I have been using tubeless tires with sealant for over a year. I bought recently a new set of tires (also tubeless) but I realised there's a leak. Shall I change the rim tape? Or will running with inner tubes for a bit seal the leak and I can remove the inner tube later on?
Nice video, what kind of valve you guys used there ?
What to do if you have a flat tire with tubeless tires? Can you fix it in the road or you must go home on foot?
You can use a tubeless repair kit (similar to car tyre plugs) or you can just stick an inner tube in there.
I’m converting my non/tubeless rims into tubeless. I have noticed they have little weep holes here and there. Will they affect the wheel , if so, is there anything I can do to close them up? Thanks for the informative video.
Bret Leversha you probably found out by now but don’t worry, the sealant will eventually fill them. You will need to add more than recommended but otherwise it’s fine.
Stephen Lord I tried a couple of times, air just kept leaking so I gave up, reinstalled the tube & filled them with sealant.
Bret Leversha did you get them up enough to ride on? Usually that helps slop the sealant about and push it into any gaps. I’ve got some really old tyres you can see the thread and they need a quick few pumps once a week ... but they are fine when riding (other than having no grip left)
Stephen Lord couldn’t be bothered, just put tubes back in with sealant & am now looking for a tubeless wheelset.
and then you realise you put it on backwards
Dave Walsh *begins twisting rim into Möbius strip*
so...many...times! even though i drew an arrow on the tyre...
😅💀
Mine leaks through the seem in my rim
when everything is fine and tight. rotation is always wrong :-)
The valve seals that I have and came with the bike are of a rectangular shape, which direction is best to insert them. Do they go perpendicular to the sides of the rim or do they sit in the wheel well?
I'm from the Philippines and I'm wondering which tire sealant (hopefully Stan's sealants), how about running tubeless tires (for comparison on Maxxis & Schwalbe) on a DYNO (for cars) @ 30PSI & see how long it can hold on. If Stan's hold on the longest, then I DEFINITELY will use what you recommend. Thanks!
Why don't you use coconut oil.
Orange seal is better than stan's IMHO. I had a bottle of stans go bad in my garage in a year and would not work. Since switching to orange seal, never have issues with old sealant failing to seal.
Good stuff! Thanks.
Try a dry run- inflate tire, set beads, let set and see if any air leaks. Remove valve core and fill ( no fluid on floor or in face)😃
what about the tyre seating then after deflation unseating again, with the same pop as it went on Giant rims and 3 types of tyre including Giant's own none of them stay seated
In my limited experience, wider tires are easier to install tubeless. Also, Maxxis tires were easier to setup compared to WTB.
can i use motorcycle valve on bike rim??? because i want to pump air easily cause its compatible on any gasoline station there is air pump for motorcycle/cars…
Some rims accept a Shraeder valve, but not many on high performance MTBs. However, you can buy a cheap and simple adaptor that will let you use a garage inflator on a presta valve. Just be careful not to exceed the safe pressure.
Gorilla tape goes on nice but as soon as you scratch the black surface off it is no longer air tight. It is easy to scratch with tyre levers or just the friction of the tyre bead seating.