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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มิ.ย. 2022
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I love how bright Tokyo is at night, it really shines. I wrote an article about lock down era nightlife street photography in Kyoto back in 2020, and I realised Kyoto is about my limit for darkness when trying to catch well-lit expressions, moments, and people at play. I'd say Kyoto is more of a dim glow than a shine comparatively.
I live in Mexico City now and it is so much darker on average that I have to really rely on spots of light and wide street landscape types of shots to get by without a tripod. I can still shoot at f4 with a relatively well-lit scene of a store front, but at the best of times I'm all the way up at 5000 iso and 1/30, which is my personal limit without IBIS. Mexico City is a light smoulder in the pitch black after hours, so I think most of my best shots are around convenience stores, or dramatically embrace shadows. I find myself gravitating more towards mini tripod long exposures right after blue hour, just to include the absolutely radical skies they have during rainy season. Especially because the X70 doesn't do well beyond a 1m focus at f2.8, so I really have to stop down to 4 or 5.6.
Great perspective on this one though, I like that we can challenge the status quo of "needing" bright apertures for night photography. I'm almost considering selling my bulky just-in-case f1.4 standard lens before my next set of travels to make room in my bag for an ultra-wide 18 or something creative. ✌️
Tokyo really is quite bright! And Kyoto definitely is darker. I see what you mean about Mexico City. Honestly, these days I really gravitate towards blue hour myself. It's simply the most beautiful time to shoot in the city! :)
I was visiting a city for a concert recently and took my camera. My wife wanted to do a snack run around midnight so I took my 3.5 kit lens with because I wasn't going to take my tele with. Totally unexpected outing. We ran across murals and amazing looking buildings and I was sitting there with no ibis, no is, nothing. Hand held holding my breath. So many images came out great. Most of them at 4.5 or 5.6! I was kind of blown away. I said to a friend we were with I'd be happy if just a single photo turned out well. I had about 20. Just try it! Go wander downtown some night with whatever you got and see what you can do without a tripod and holding your breath. You may surprise yourself.
Very true! It's why I wanted to make this video, to encourage people to just give a try! :)
Even bracing up against a wall or lamppost or something works pretty well
See how low you can go, braced against something and pressing the eyecup into your brow you can do 1/10 or way lower if you have IBIS. I think I did 1 sec with shutter delay turned on.
Right. And what ISO did you use for it?
Your positive energy and smile clearly shows us you really wanna help people 😊
Thank you so much for saying so! I really appreciate that!! :)
Such a great video! The versatility of that lens wow!
Glad you liked it! :)
Japan's light bill must be off the charts. it's so bright. Thanks for the video. I love street photography.
Glad you liked it! :)
Did you know Sony + Cannon + Fujifilm are paying the city’s electric bills! Just so they can sell more cameras? 😂
… just a joke!
Excellent videos, with actually factual accurate advice. Wonderful videos and Tokyo looks awesome. Take care, Loren from California
Thank you!! Glad you found it useful! :)
Absolutely loved this video ❤❤❤
Thank you!! :)
Amazing channel. Helps so much.
Thank you!! Glad to be helpful! :)
You really inspire me to go out for some night street photography in my own city.
Glad to hear that! It's our goal! :)
i Like your video since after every photo you give the settings you use with camera and lense details. Thanks!!
Glad you like it! Thanks! :)
I like your videos and points of view. You're positive good mood either💁🏼
Thanks! :)
I used to not care about taking pictures and that kind of stuff but I've been slowly building an interest, even though I don't understand anything about cameras or photography it's still a good time watching your vids keep it up
Glad to spur your interest a bit! :)
I love your videos. On my way to tokyo tonight to take some photos and practice.
Thank you so much!! :)
Great video 👍 Very pleasing to watch the gimbal stabilized video… smooth 😊
Thanks!! :)
Great video and I love that you show the camera settings for each still frame shot! I just bought my z6 ii in Feb and have recently started playing with it for night photography. Question: do you have your ISO set to auto adjust or are you adjusting it on the dial?
Thank you!! Glad you like it! I use Auto-ISO almost always and have it setup to max out at 6400 with a minimum shutter speed of 1/250. (This is in the ISO Sensitivity Settings in the Shooting Menu.)
A great way to illustrate Zen in street photography. There isn't a right way to shoot the noodle shop. That's right. And counters those who say street photography has to be this way or that way. Basically do it their way. A great video, thanks for sharing. 😎👍🏻
Yes!! Thank you for highlighting that part. I'm glad it resonated with you. :)
great video ! I just wrote down many nice street photo spots I didn’t know in Ikebukuro ! I hope I can come back soon. Keep up the good work, and keep sharing such lovely shooting spots !
Nice! Glad you liked it! :)
@@EYExplore I live in Paris, but my heart is in Tokyo, and new spots are always welcomed !
Thanks for the video, I am coming over to Japan very soon and will have my Z7ii and the 24-120 f4 lens . I hope to get some amazing photos .
Awesome!! I'm sure you will! :)
Really liked the video. If you are dropping the shutter that low on the train shot, you should have a tripod IMO. That might make a nice long exposure with the red streak going into the tall buildings in the back. Keep up the great work!
Sure, of course I can have a tripod, but this was not the goal for today. It was just a 'by the way' shot. Thanks! :)
Just bought this 24-120 as my allaround lens for z5. Tomorrow travelling to Vienna and after that to Prague. Can't wait to start shoting :). Thank you for inspiring videos!
That's great!! Good shooting! :)
I'm so excited to get the 24-120mm for my Z5 too!
@@matthenderson0818 Quick update after few months of usage. The lens are overall great. One thing where they don't shine is geometry distortion. On some shoots it can be pretty visible. Anyway recently lensfun got profile for this lens so this can be corrected with one click in postprocessing.
Man this came at a perfect time. I was getting jaded shooting in Ikebukuro. Thanks for the new inspiration
My pleasure!! But you can also go shoot somewhere else for a while and come back haha. :)
@@EYExploregot my d5600 stolen not looking to upgrade to the z6 😂 with this lens
Quality post and pics, Lucas. Favs are at 8.09 moving train for motion blur, and 12.04 man on stool in food shop for human interest. Gently made case for f 4 in your situation. IMO, having an extra stop or two is a kind of exposure choice insurance (belt and suspenders safety) for different situations. Availability of wider aperture makes for a more versatile lens.
What are those credit card charges for “watermelon” at Soapland, and Hotel Ramses Club?😁
BTW, nice sound effects for noodle straining😁.
Thanks! I agree on the 'insurance' aspect. I also like having f/2.8, but just wanted to encourage people with ~f/4 lenses that they too can go out and get some nice night photos. Haha, as for the sound, I do all my own foley. :)
The "SoapLand" comment had me laughing out loud. Love your videos.
Haha, glad to hear that!! :)
Good for full frame cameras only. With crop sensor at f 4 pictures will become bizarre paintwork.
I dunno, modern APSC cameras have great sensors. My Ricoh GR III (APSC sensor) performs amazingly well at high ISO. Also, stabilization means you can use slow shutters and avoid high ISO altogether. The GR does great at 1/4 or even 1/2 of a second.
@@EYExploreNop
@@danielmihaylov5525 Yup :)
Who shoots APSC these days?
Love your videos Lukasz! I know you don’t shoot on the Sony system but I recently bought the new a74 and am wondering if you’d still recommend using back button focus or not. I’m new to Sony as I’m transitioning from Fuji at this time. Keep up the great work man!
Thanks!! I recommend using back button focus on any camera. Separating focus and shooting is very important to me as it allows for more control of how you shoot. It also saves tons of times and helps prevent missing shots (no need to focus for every single shot).
@@EYExplore Thanks so much for your quick reply. I really appreciate it. Hope to cross paths at some point in Tokyo.
This City is full of light my friend. Yes, there is f4.0 open enough... Great Video, great shot results
Glad you liked it! :)
Great video. And you used zoom lens which some photographers seem to turn their noses up to, but it sure shows the versatility of this setup. I also appreciate the Zen points you made! Thank you for such wonderful content. Greetings from Kobe!
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it. I'm a big fan of primes, but nothing wrong with a good zoom lens! :)
I was looking for some kind of app similar to your sponsor thank you!
Great!! Glad to hear that! :)
Great video!
I think it all depends on many factors. In Tokyo (at least areas that fantastically lit at night) or with new gear (IBIS, good sensors with small amount of digital noise on higher ISO settings) and with steady well trained steady hand, plus RAW and some post-processing - yes, it's OK with F4.
In other situations... it might get tricky 🙂 Everything is a trade off here.
It's very true, it's not a universal truth. But I'd say that in badly lit dark areas even f/1.4 doesn't save you. For a nice picture you still need some kind of interesting light source. But I agree that f/4 has limitations and if I can, I'm glad to have a wider aperture. :)
@@EYExplore true, dark is dark, nothing helps 😄
Z6 II has strong High-ISO quality and a good IBIS. Weak point is the AF at low light. F1.4-2.0 and EyeAF struggles very often - I sold all my Nikon gear.
I am German living in Thailand and like street photography, also at night in party and red light ares. For this enviroment I am now using a Sony A7 IV with Tamron 70-180/2.8, Sony 135/1.8 GM, or Sigma 85/1.4 DG DN ART. AF is mostly on Real Time Tracking with Eye AF and it works excellent. Picture quality (sharpness and blur) esspecially with the 135/1.8GM is outstanding.
I never had significant problems with AF. I just don't like that the Z6/Z7 lack 3D Tracking and instead have 'Subject Tracking' which works a bit differently. Luckily the Z9 brought the 3D Tracking back and it's so, so good! :)
@@EYExplore Yes, with Z9 Nikon could finally deliver, but Z9 is big and heavy and in another price range. - For the price of Z9 you can buy a Sony A7 IV with a Sigma 24-70/2.8 and the outstanding 135/1.8 GM.
It would be cool to see what you shoot of Thailand. I love Thailand. It feels like another planet to me. Bangkok and Chiang Mai are my favourites for street photography. ✌️
Great shots. Are you able to use such slow shutter speeds because of camera and or lens stabilization? I shoot manual and if I tried to shoot an F4 135mm lens at those speeds it would no doubt be blurry.
Yeah, it's true that IBIS helps a ton. But I also used to do similar things with my D4 (no IBIS) and f-mount 24-120mm, which only had in-lens stabilization. Without any kind of stabilization I don't think I could shoot below 1/50 at 120mm, and that would be really pushing it. :)
Hi, thank you for the video, super helpful! Dublin is quite dim in comparison to Tokyo so f4 might not work as well, but I'm gonna try it soon! Silly question, but did you shoot in auto focus? I have a fuji xt4 and find the auto focus gimmicky so I'm often on manual focus (even with good af lenses), but you were shooting so quickly I'm guessing it was all af. How are you not blurry when shooting handheld with such low shutter speeds? My mind is blown, your shots were so steady.
Thanks! I do use AF most of the time and as for the slow shutter speeds and lack of motion blur... it's thanks to great stabilization in the camera/lens, but also I do my best to hold the camera steady. :)
Maxwell's videography skill is so great! He frame you like it's those third person video game, he must be a gamer as well, it's really nice to see behind you shoot the scene while we viewers can watch the action and the scene you shoot at together too! I amazed by and enjoy this more than Kai & Lok and Chris & Jordan videography style, truly unique and smooth! What lens shot this video and setting values too tho?
By the way, I need some advices, I plan to get A7RV with Tamron 50-400mm F4.5-6.3 (crop 2X to 800mm) and pair a 14mm F1.8 as ultrawide and everyday lens which can crop to 28mm F1.8 low light F3.6 DOF for that, is it good choice? Or better go with Loawa 10-18 manual, Sony 12-24 F4, Sigma 14-24 F2.8, Sony 16-35 F4 PZ, Tamron 17-50 F4 or Sony 20 F1.8? Is the Power Zoom essential or any of these even the fix lens can do dolly zoom just fine? And can I set profile for each lens so the results by the golden look Tamron lenses and cooler look Sony lenses will look consistent? If want stabilisation in addition to the IBIS, there will be crop too, the 14mm better?
Thank you so much!! Axel really does an amazing job on the videography! At this time we were using a Nikon Z50 with the kit lens, 16-50mm. I think he always keeps it on 16mm with f/4 for these night videos. These days we use a Z6II with 24-70mm f/4.
As for lens advice, I have no idea haha. It really depends on what you want to shoot. There is no perfect lens for everything. I personally wouldn't get any of those lenses. I don't like the idea of getting a 14mm and cropping. I'd rather just have a 28mm. Here are the lenses I used most often: 28mm f/1.4, 40mm /2... and that's pretty much it. I own the 14-24, 24-7-0, 70-200 f/ 2.8 zooms, but I pretty much only use them for work. :)
Another great video, very helpful. I was just thinking about not having an f2.8 when I sell my Sigma Sport 70-200 f2.8. And thinking about what I would replace it with.
135 1.8 =)
Thank you! That depends entirely on what you wanna shoot! :)
Very helpful! I always struggle with using F4 and high ISO, must be just me. I usually shoot A or S, maybe I should start using Manual.
I usually shoot in A mode, but also M mode. Never use S mode. All modes can get you to the same place though more or less. You just need to make decisions based on ISO and shutter speed given the subject and how you'd like to capture it. :)
Depends on the camera/body and lens.
True! :)
Because of the lighting, I thought you were in front of a green screen at first lol
Yeah, everyone thinks so! It's weird how it turned out haha. :)
Are you green-screened in the intro?
Nope. Axel has alight on the gimbal which lights me but not the background, so sometimes I stand out in a weird way. :)
How are you able to do steady shots handheld at 1/10?
That's a good walking around lens. Wish it was a F/2.8 though.
...especially taking in mind what result could any DSLR and 2.8 lens make for 30% of a budget of his set - this is just rubbish
If it was 2.8 it would be huge and much more expensive. But yeah, if you really need 2.8, you really need it! :)
I don't really factor in cost in my videos. Costs change over time, people have different budgets, etc. When I do workshops some blokes bring 20k in Leica gear and are happy with it. Other people bring basic cameras and take great photos. Budgetary issues are all up to you. You can do a cheaper version of this setup with a second-hand D4 an F-mount 24-120 f/4G (which is a combo I've used at night to great effect) and my point would still stand.
What a bright , beautiful city.
It really is! :)
One thing I noticed that I don't know that I heard discussed was setting EV compensation to underexpose whether in aperture-priority or M + Auto-ISO. All the EXIF data I saw showed -2/3, -1, and -1-2/3 EV.
This is something I feel like is important for modern cameras with high dynamic range for two reasons. 1, it ensure the highlights don't clip as there will be many with artificial lights at night. 2, recovery of shadows on modern sensors, especially iso-invariant sensors, results in a much better image typically.
I tend not to compensate with my exposure in post. I want my nighttime images to look like nighttime images.
Yeah, I rarely mention this because it's a given to me. I've mentioned it in previous videos I'm sure. I think I should always bring it up at least once just to be clear. Thanks for pointing it out! :)
I dont need f2.8, f4 is enough but sometimes i cant freeze the motion enough with f4, bcs my camera iso is limited to 1600.
It's true, and I do mention something similar in the video. Of course 2.8 (or even bigger) is useful! :)
@@EYExplore yup still shoot with kit lens until i can afford f2.8 lens😂
@@rofi3930 you will get there , check out the 50mm 1.8 lenses , they usually are cheap even if bought new. Or check out second hand to save some money.
@@thelowlifex9437 yup planing to buy that or 24 mm lens bcs i have apsc camera for 35mm lens equivalent, still saving the money though
I'm researching shooting with a fixed 180mm 2.8 on D750 after dark. Some things I am considering. Fixed, fairly long focal length. (180mm) No image stabilization in camera or lens. Thats why I am thinking I might need f2.8. Just looking for some samples.
Yeah, at that focal length without any stabilization I would not be too keen on shooting at night at f/4 unless you are in a very well lit city. :)
Are you sure that photo on the soapland was f4 1/250 iso 1.000 ev -1? Or the image was dark lier ev -7 but you crank the raw exposure?
I just double-checked, yep totally sure. -1 EV just means that I had tell the camera to expose less than it's meter decides. It has nothing to do with the actual exposure. Only the shutter, aperture, and ISO determine the brightness of the image. And even ISO is kind of secondary to aperture/shutter, but that's another can of worms.
Anyway, EV -7 would be literally a BLACK image lol. Each stop it's a *halving* of the light. So, it would be 7 halvings...
I don't really get your question though: you find it hard to believe that 1/250, f4, and ISO-1000 is enough to exposure this scene? It's quite a bright scene, so yeah the settings look suitable to me. But I did expose for the highlights more so than the shadows.
Could you please recommend me the night urban/architect photography lens for Nikon Z6ii?
If you want the best, get the 14-24 f/2.8 S. If you want even more aperture, maybe the 20mm f/1.8, though I haven't used it. I love using my 28mm f/1.4E with the FTZ adapter. Works amazingly well! :)
03:31 Looks like a customized Honda Ruckus, they're called Zoomer in Japan if I'm not mistaken.
It's rad!! :)
Good gawd I thought the background was green screen it looked so unreal🤯
Haha, yeah I dunno what happened there. I think it's just the lighting and the shallow DOF. :)
How would you compare this lens to the 24-70 2.8s regarding picture quality and overall performance for street photography?
I own that lens and the picture quality is on par, to me at least. They are both extremely sharp and the Nikon applies automatic distortion correction that completely removes any distortion. But, of course, the bokeh is more pleasing on the f/2.8 lens, even at the same apertures. But the 2.8 lens costs more than double and has a shorter zoom, so it's certainly a trade-off. For pro work I prefer the f/2.8, but for travel, hiking, street (especially day time, but also night as I explain in the video) I prefer the 24-120. The 24-120mm is also about 200 grams lighter. :)
@@EYExplore thanks
Lukasz do you will get one of the new Voigtländer z Mount lenses?
Whaaat?? This is the first I'm hearing about them! But I just checked and the 50mm is for full frame but the 23 and 35mm are for APS-C, so that's a bummer. If they come out with a remake of my classic full-frame 40mm I might consider it. On the other hang, my old 40mm f/2 Ultron works great on the FTZ adapter, so I probably wouldn't drop the money on it. If they send me one for free though.... :)
@@EYExplore I shoot with a 35mm f2 apo emount with Adapter. They make really nice lenses
@@stp182314343 Sounds great! :)
What's a soapload? Is it like bed bath and beyond in the states?
Hahaha... A soapland is a place where you can meet a nice lady who will give you a soapy massage. :)
@@EYExplore oh my mom used to give me bubble baths with the rubber ducky also. Looks like Japanese culture is not so different from American
@@AJ-iu6nw Hahaha, you get it! :)
A great thanks man ! I got this lens and love it ! Here in Montreal it's ok for the light but nothing like Tokyo. This 40mm f/2 that u have made me purchase this beauty. So light, so bright, and cheap ! I enjoy your work very much. Cheers !
Thanks!! Yeah, you do need some decent light if you're going to shoot at night. But you can also go out and shoot during dusk/blue hour. That gives the 'night' look but with more light available. Anyway, the 40mm is great. I use it all the time! :)
Alex...I'm not the most competent photographer, so bear with me. I note that despite having only f4 to work with, every image has a negative EV. Exposure comp is not something I'm super comfortable with, but why dial back exposure on night shots where light is so limited? Is this to kill highlights so you can recoup shadow detail, or....I barely know what I'm asking about....
The camera will always try to expose the image "correctly" so having it at the "right" exposure will actually make the scene brighter than what you see at night. So having a negative exposure compensation will actually bring it closer to what you see with your eyes.
Great question! I was wondering the same thing too, but David Whang provides an excellent answer that explains it all. Thank you!
It's pretty much as you say, but more generally I find the camera is just over-exposing a bit when presented with scenes that have tons of shadows (like the train shots I took). I have the metering set to Center Weighted Average, so the camera is easily fooled in these very dark scenes. Of course, I can choose a different metering mode but I find this one the most predictable and have no problem dialing down the EV as needed.
Would it be beneficial if nikon has multiple auto iso settings like fujifilm?
Yes! That would be great. Auto ISO setting where you would choose the minumun shutter also.
Probably, but I'm happy with just one. I never even use the U1, U2, U3 settings. I find it easier to just change settings on the fly than try to remember which custom setting is for what. But if some people find it useful, by all means they should add that feature! :)
Nikon has the option to choose the minimum shutter. In fact, all of mine have had that option since the D300 I had in 2010. It's in the ISO Sensitivity Settings option in the Shooting Menu.
You don't need f/2.8 at night "in Tokyo"!!! 😉
This may be true. But I guess if you're shooting in place that's too dark for f/4 then honestly f/2.8 is not needed either. Go for f/1.4. :)
I wonder if Nikon Z 24-200mm f/4.0-6.3 VR will do the job.
That's a tougher one at night. I rented it out and used it for a few days. If you zoom even a tiny bit the aperture immediately starts closing from f/4 down to f/6.3 at around 50--70mm (not sure exactly, as I can't remember). So, it's not very practical at night.
U mnie na mieście nocą nawet to f/2.8 jest sporym ograniczeniem, a mieszkam w centrum dużego miasta :) Dlatego kupiłem 50mm 1.4. W moich warunkach oświetleniowych zbawienne szkło :)
Muszę się z tym zgodzić. To zależy od miasta w którym się znajdujesz. Przyznaję że Tokio jest dość jasnym miastem. :)
Maybe you say it, but what time of night do you usually shoot your videos?
We don't really have a usual time, but this one was shot around 7-8pm I think. We rarely go part 10pm for video shoots like this. :)
f4 could be okay provided you have IS with camera and/or with the Lense.
I mean, I can easily hand-hold 1/30 or 1/50, of course depending on the focal length. People shot small aperture lenses while hand holding for decades before any kind of stabilization was a thing. Just believe in yourself! :)
Did u limited your Auto ISO to, for example, 5200 or u just leave it be?
I limit it to 6400.
With how good IBIS and VR this day, F4 are enough
My point exactly! Also, high ISO performance is so good as well. :)
it's Z6II lol. All new FF release these day sony, canon, nikon can produce good picture at iso 6400, usable picture at 12800. For the old camera or drop F camera you should bring F/1.8 lens for night sheet photo. 2 stop brighter mean you shoot at iso 1600
Yeah, so you agree with me, right? As I say, you don't need f/4 if you use a modern camera with IBIS. I even used to shoot at night like this with my D4 and f-mount 24-120 f/4 with only in lens VR. And it worked well too!
Damn, what are you using to record this video?
Amazing quality..👍
We shot this one on a Nikon Z50 with the kit lens. More recently we upgraded to a Nikon Z6II with the 24-70 f/4. Actually, the Z50 with the kit lens also illustrates the point I'm making in the video haha. The kits lens only goes to f/3.5. :)
I've used this lens for over ten years from the D700, D600, D750 and D810. Never had the pleasure to shoot on Tokio but can vouch for the usefulness of this lens. Sold the 2.8 and have always preferred the lighter weight and extra reach of the 24-120f4. Yes, if your in a controlled environment the 24-70 2.8 will be the way to go but I'm always on the hoof and weight is important. Not changing to Z yet but my experience is an FX body with 24 MPX is fine for the shots shown here. DX I don't like above 800iso. If it were for noise contol, the D600 is plenty enough. The others have better functionality. Next stop D850.
What does Av mean?
Aperture Value / Aperture Priority mode.
When the video started I thought he was on a green screen 😂😂😂
Yeah, that shot turned out so weird. I also felt that way when seeing it on the computer screen. But I assure you, I was (and still am) in Tokyo haha. :)
Perfect timing! Since I have just a couple of short primes when it comes to under f/2.0 I'll try tomorrow's night photography with the 18-105/f4.0 and see what happens. The rather well-lit summer nights up here in nothern Sweden will help... :)
Just back from Stockholm. How can you go wrong with the light you have there. Had a blast there photographing everything all day!
Glad you to give some inspiration! :)
Yes we do need f/2.8. 2:38 ISO1000 already and with f/2.8 it would be 400. Zoom in and you'll see the noise, especially on sides of building. The front is lit so well, that of course, you may get away with f/4. And of course if you just shoot buildings you could set camera on tripod close aperture to f/10 and do long exposure. 12:51 here we go f/4 is working. Or is it? 12:32 - zoom in and show how sharp and not grainy this image. f/4 is fine when you have enough light and full frame camera of course.
I didn't show the full-size images, but they are not very grainy at 800 or 1000 ISO. I dunno, this is obviously a matter of opinion, but the purpose of the video is to encourage people to use what they got, and not spend thousands of dollars on 2.8 zooms when they an f/4 could suffice. It's been a while but I think I made pretty clear at some point in the video that if you really feel like you need 2.8, then by all means, get it! But you don't NEED 2.8. I'm not saying you DON'T need to 2.8. I'm saying you don't neeeeeed it. I hope that makes sense! :)
@@EYExplore I have 5d Mark IV and Canon 24-70mm f/4 ($400 +/- $30 on e-bay), I use it in recreation parks (like Disneyland) till dark comes. Then I switch to Tamron 35mm f/1.8 VC ($375 on e-bay) and I still at 1/15 shutter speed, ISO1600 or if I have portable light and I'm next to Small World Ride it's f/1.8, 1/60, ISO800 to take a picture of person with that well lit background. 35mm lens with Full frame camera is not exactly wide enough for high buildings on a background, so I'm getting Canon 24mm f/1.4 ($550 average on e-bay), haven't tested it yet (it's in delivery process). I have Canon 70-200 f/2.8 - absolutely love it at f/2.8 when taking portraits. For street photography like buildings only, I would encourage f/8, ISO100, tripod and long exposure (10-20 seconds depends on light conditions). For taking photos of bricks the wide opened aperture would not matter. But to increase shutter speed (for hand held night portrait shots) and reduce ISO, you do need fast aperture, unless it's a brick wall and you don't really care much.
OK so here are my thoughts. You often say “This is not a Gear review Channel “ But as you pointed out in this video you guys have come a long way. What happened to the Z7II, did Axel get it to film with ? The sound quality is always FLAWLESS and yet your mic is often so close to the Peak Design strap I can’t believe they never collide, yet never a rustle ! My point is you have both grown and gained knowledge and techniques; for example in earlier times you were often seen with large back pack and tripods, now never seen. I would love a video about “How we do it “ What is the mic plugged into and where does it sit ? What is Axel’s gimbal and his video settings ? Then stick a load of referral links below and it might even earn a couple of ¥ (just sayin)
Yeah, actually, we are planning to make a kind of 'behind the scenes' video in which we explain our whole process. As for referral links, actually they are all right there in the description! I even mention the camera and gimbal we use to shoot the video. And pretty much no one ever clicks on them. :)
True. You Need 1.4
LOL, yeah if you really, really need a big aperture, then 1.4 is the way to go, but if you're deciding between an f/2.8 zoom and a much much cheaper f/4 zoom, then this is what this video is about. :)
If you set your ISO to 1600 or 3200, you can use a faster shutter and a smaller aperture.
This will allow you to freeze faster action, eliminate camera shake and have a larger D.O.F. in brightly lit areas.
Yes, I am aware of that, thank you. :)
I think I may struggle without IBIS with an F4, hand holding at 1/30 I don't think is possible for me I struggle under 1/80 unfortunately.
As always awesome video man thanks!
IBIS helps a ton, but I use to shoot with the F mount Nikon 24-120mm on my D4. With that combo there was no IBIS, only VR (optical stabilization). And I could get it down to 1/30 easily. So, even with pretty basic IS it can be viable, especially at wider apertures. :)
@@EYExplore Awesome! Might have to practise with the slower speeds and see if I can get it down better :)
@@joshdowler9195 brace yourself on something and press the eyecup into your brow and use a short shutter delay to get rid of shutter slap. Exhale, hold your breath for the exposure.
Yes, you don't need f/2.8. But you surely want that f/0.95
Haha, yeah if you wanna carry around 10 kg and spend 10k. :)
@@EYExplore
Meike 50mm f0.95 at ~600g and ~250$ cuz who needs AF?
JK JK :)
@@BoopyTheFox Ah that's pretty cool!! Actually I think every .95 lens out there is MF. I don't think anyone makes an AF lens like that, but maybe I just don't know about it. :)
@@EYExplore Same here, I don't think there's a consumer-grade AF that goes further than 1.2 (viltrox's)
It kinda depends on the size and quality of the sensor
Sure this is also true! But on the other hand we shoot these videos on a Nikon Z50 (APS-C) and the kit lens which only goes to f/3.5, and the image quality turns out pretty good. I think sensors have gotten so good these days that even APS-C is very viable at night. :)
ah, to have ibis
It's pretty clutch. It was the main reason I went to the Z6II finally in late 2020. :)
@@EYExplore 100%. If I could have afforded the x-t4 over the x-t3 I ended up getting I'd be riding that clutch with you ;)
This should be called the Soapland Photography Channel… 🤣
Hahaha, yeah it should!! :)
@@EYExplore I also find these areas fascinating... the old Yoshiwara area (Asakusa) still has some character? I haven't been in that particular area in maybe 12 years. BONUS the best little tendon restaurant in the known universe is close by there (and off the tourist path).
@@bradl2636 Yes! I was in Yoshiwara a few weeks ago. Still very cool! :)
Way too many ads dude … I’m off to Google ‘Soapland’ 😂
Oh, sorry, I don't place them myself. I just enable ads on the video and Google does the rest. Enjoy the soapland rabbit hole haha. :)
@@EYExplore 😂
Be careful out there (some seriously unscrupulous people around) ... amazing results 🎉
I've lived in Ikebukuro 11 years... it's fine. :)
@@EYExplore Cool, over here would be so different. That bazooka lens was awesome 🔭🔭🔭🔭🔭
@@yamyam_1978 :)
Just remember that you are in a bright light city 😉 zero low light in this video. How I can say that? Because I live in a low light town 😉 but yes, I managed 8 seconds handheld in town, with f4 and iso 200. My town has light 7% of the light you have there 😅
Obviously, 'low light' is subjective. I guess if you live in some super dark city, then yeah, that's too dark. I can only speak for the environment I'm shooting in.
@@EYExplore try town 🤣 but sadly bright enough to interrupt astrophotography 😬 about 15k people lives in the main town. About 40k people on the whole island.
So yeah, I know what actual low light means 😉
@@bamsemh1 Sure, but that to me is just DARKNESS, haha. Not 'low light.' And in those cases have f/1.4 wont' help you much anyway. If you're on f/4 200 ISO and 8 seconds (as you said above), then at f/1.4 (for example) you'd still be at 1 second. Then raise the ISO to 6400 you're looking at 1/30, which is still not really useful for most street photography. So, yeah, we can agree that it's a completely different situation. :)
Can we please address the elephant colony in the room? Tokyo is VERY bright at night. For the majority of the time, you were shooting lights, and barely any people. I assume you could have done the same with f/8.0 and a tripod. But from that, I wouldn’t conclude that someone doesn’t NEED an f/2.8 or even faster lens for night photography.
I mean, I was doing night photography, no? Nowhere did I claim it's about people. Plus I did do some silhouette shots of people right in the beginning, and then I did shoot those two guys at the end in the alley (the two bar workers). And I do believe one of those shots was even on a relatively slow shutter, but since they were not moving it was okay.
You're kinda moving the line. If you are shooting very fast moving subjects at night, then sure, you need a big aperture. I would actually argue that in such cases even f/2.8 is not enough. Frankly, f/2.8 is not a huge aperture to me. I only used that distinction in this video because most lens makers (Nikon for sure) have a series of super expensive f/2.8 zoom lenses, and then they have another series of lenses with similar or same focal ranges but with f/4 max apertures and less than half the cost (also, kit lenses are often f/3.5 at the wide end).
Hence, I thought it was a good distinction to make. Again, if you really need speed at night, you're not gonna go for f/2.8, you'll for for f/1.4, a full 3 stops more light than f/4. So now at the same ISO, instead of shooting 1/250 you can shoot 1/2000. Or keep it at 1/250 and drop the ISO. And making the claim I could have use a tripod is asinine. Come on, would you really have lugged around a tripod and shot all the things I shot in this video?? I know I wouldn't!
@EYExplore A title such as "Night Photography with an f/4 Lens?" would have been more humble and representative of the video contents than "You Don't Need f/2.8 for Night Street Photography". At 22:10 even you contradict this statement, just like you did in your answer above. Sorry that I wasn't clear enough in my original post that I was criticising the unjustified conclusion in the video title. And I used the absurd example of the tripod merely to emphasise the wrongfulness of making unjustified conclusions.
I take your point that one can take satisfactory images with an f/4 lens. But I don't agree that everyone will be equally satisfied as you were. It's important to recognise your biases (e.g., having a full-frame camera, living in a well-lit city, not having to capture action), and be equally articulate about possible limitations, just as you were in your comment above. I thank you for doing that, as it will hopefully help future viewers to formulate a more balanced idea about an f/4 lens and make a more informed decision whether it is good enough for them, or they might need to look for something else.
@@colekimmons2345 Man, you realized how TH-cam works right? You have to put something provocative in the title or your video doesn't get promoted and no one clicks on it. The title is not for nuance. As for biases, I think you are right we all have biases. I just operate under the assumption that ALL OF OUR VIDEOS are simply my opinion, take it or leave it. I don't feel the need to make a huge disclaimer in every video.
You easily noticed that I am shooting on well-lit city streets, which is a typical stage for street photography. I openly share all camera settings so you can make inferences there too, such as full-frame vs APSC. Although, ironically this video was shot on APSC camera with a kit lens set to f/3.5 and it the quality is great!
When I say at the end "if you need it, you need it" this is exactly what I am alluding to: every person needs to make their own decision and if you disagree with my assertion in the video, then great! This seems to be the case for you.
But my assertion still stands. Now were getting into semantics, but the word 'need' to me, means an absolute requirement, as in you MUST have such a lens or you CANNOT do street photography. I think I showed that you CAN do street photography without such a lens. Hence, you don't NEED one.
I also base this message on the countless people I've had on my workshops. Many of them bring kit lenses and lament they they wanna get the big, expensive f/2.8 monster. And then we do the workshop and they get some great photos even at night in the dark, even on APSC. That's my point. :)
Of course you need a 2.8 in low light, but you do not know it, lol.
Riiiight. I assume this is just a joke. As an owner of many 2.8 lenses over the years, as well as even bigger aperture primes, I think have plenty of experience to gauge what I know or don't know on the matter of using various apertures at night (at least in Tokyo).
to nie street photography tylko Tourist Snapshots !!!!!
Of course not every photos can be a street photo, but I certainly took some that meet my definition of street photography: candid, mundane, transient, contextual. :)
I wrote about it here: www.lkazphoto.com/blog/elements-of-street-photography
An f/4 zoom lens is the last thing I'd take on a night foto shoot. I'd take an f/2.8 zoom lens or an f/2, f/1.4 prime. Yes, you can take night images with f/4 max aperture, but it is far from optimal. Don't let this vid fool you.
Sure, but not everyone has one. I'm not saying it's the BEST thing. I'm saying it gets the jobs done so don't fret. :)
@@EYExplore perhaps you can serve your viewers better by doing a vid on low cost f/2, f/1.4 primes for night shooting. For example, Canon has offered for decades affordable f/2 35mm and f/1.4 50mm primes. Today the RF mount offers an inexpensive 50mm f/1.4 and the EF-M mount offers a $199 22mm f/2 for APS-C. You wanna spend more, there's the excellent 32mm f/1.4 for under $500. Choose the right tool for the job. F/4 for night shooting? No. Is it possible? Sure, lots of things are possible but far from desirable.😉
The other issue is that if you are shooting DSLR, an f/4 lens won't enable the low light focusing system available on those cameras only with brighter lenses. Those focusing systems will often require brighter than f/2.8 to enable the more precise low light focusing.
@@chacmool2581 I've done countless videos with big aperture primes. It's what I use most of the time. This video was meant to be a counter to all those videos. Sure, "choose the right tool for the job" but also "work with what you got!" Thanks for your feedback! :)
That video looks like he is greenscreened on some gta video :/ also at 5:30 I can't even understand what he mumbles to himself.
Audio is clear for me. The green screen effect is weird, I agree. I think it has to do with the fact that I am lit with a potable LED and the background has a lot of bokeh, so there is this odd separation. But I assure, I was there haha. :)
@@EYExplore you can understand because it's your voice. I'm not a native speaker so I had to listen 3 times. Overall nice video, gta effect is more noticeable thanks to gimbal holding everything VERY steady with some jerking movements between steady pauses with almost 0 movement. And like you said green screen is from mismatch between you and background. If a novice like me could see this, it might be just unnatural.
Yet another "shoot 100 frames, one will turn out ok" type of approach. I don't like that
Other than for the trains, I don't see how that's the approach here but okay. :)
Hi. Really enjoying all your videos. You recently mentioned an alternative to Instagram. Would uou mind letting me know what it is. Instagram is just full of adds and stupid videos at the moment.
Thank you! It's our sponsor for this video: portraitmode.io/