Loved walking through all these. On my Fujifilm camera, I fiddle with all 3 settings a lot more manually. On my Sony, I will probably implement your set it and forget it plan, because I've been a bit lazy and leaving it in full auto a lot of the time, and then just fixing things in post. I prefer your method more. Thank you!
I always use F8 and 500 speed and auto iso and 3 chapters of continuous photos. When I shoot, I will stand and do not move. I enjoy street photography.
Mike, if you use an electronic shutter then you will see more movement due to the readout time of the sensor. Use a mechanical shutter when possible, then time is time.
You can also zone focusing with the X100: Manuel mode___ for example with f11 take the hyperfocale distance related with the lens and the aperture, here 2,3 m-- put that distance on the scale distance turning the ring-- done
There's literally nothing about manual focus that's a much nicer experience except maybe if you're shooting macro. In your case f8 means everything is in focus so you're not really focusing which is why it's easy for you. Soon as you have to focus on something for real you'll find out why AF is far nicer.
i think because my style of street is less layering subjects and more getting interesting portraits, with a good depth of field i tend to stick around at f2 and occasionally venture to 5.6 if i want that group shot. I understand you're thinking though and why you shoot how you do. Shooting 18 years now, i use to be MR f16 when i was first learning sunny 16 and eventually found my style/taste.
It’s quite strange listening to your ideas on focus and exposure. When I started about 60 years ago everything was manual focus - and you had to continually measure the light with a hand held exposure meter. ISO - (ASA then) was usually 125 (FP4) or 400 (Tri-x). Now you want to throw away 40+ years of technology and go backwards to manual focus. I don’t see the point in limiting ISO to 3200 or 6400 - what do you do when that limit is reached - go home or get blurry pics? Auto ISO will always choose the lowest possible ISO considering your other settings - so why not just set it to the cameras maximum and forget it. If it bothers you you can always sort digital noise in post - much harder to sort blurry pics.
For street photography I also use manual focus. I have missed shots because of autofocus. Even when I use the x100vi. My muscle memory gets the focusing right and I get very neat shoots and become invisible by shooting from the hip. I would not do that in a model photoshoot in a studio, of course.
I have also found that with the Leica M11 that I also want to work with higher shutter speeds than on the Leica M10 or even my Nikon Z8. I have also found that getting the sharpening setting to be important with the files as well.
Yes, and I tend to have the Nikons (Z9, D3/3x/800/700) set internally down a stop because they tend to overexpose (everything) vs my Q2 set on Highlight Protection metering (most of the time). Please see my other comment regarding some slight impediments I face, including not having taken the lens cover off before raising the camera (confounds my metering, but my composition is about the same); not having turned the camera on before raising it (I have about the same hit rate in action situations camera on/camera off); and almost always forgetting to reset ExpComp at the end of a session/before starting another session. Let's just say it's a good thing I don't depend upon photography to feed myself!
These are certainly not settings for nighttime street photography, but it's not that bad. It may produce higher ISOs, but on modern cameras it's absolutely fine. Many will downsample their images for social media, use intelligent denoising, or convert the photos to grayscale to make the noise visually imperceivable.
Hay Mike. What autofocus setting would you use for shooting from the hip type shots on a Leica Q3? Would you use manual focal for that and set the distance? Thanks. Ray (love your videos by the way. I find them informative, relaxing and enjoyable to watch)
Yeah manual and set a distance could work if you have enough light and f8 or f11 is useable. But auto focus with the point in the centre could work as well. Hope this helps.
Very helpful for quick and easy don't think too much about it settings. Sometimes get too caught up in perfect set up and not spending enough time on just being there and grabbing moments. Also, who makes that camera strap that you use with the M11-P? Looks very subtle and wide enough to be comfortable with my M11 but not bulky. Thanks!
And, it's quite possible that you have put in hours upon hours of practice to get to the point where you don't have to think about everything you just said in the video when you're shooting! I think that it's easy to forget that piece of the puzzle when we watch videos and see great shots being made by you guys. Question: When you're using zone focusing, do you also have peaking enabled to assist? Or, would that just take to much time and cause missed opportunities? Thanks for the info. Have a rockin' day!
Hi Mike - question on AUTO ISO @1/1000 SS- does this setting override the min SS you’d normally dial in with Auto IS in Leica user profiles (assuming this min SS being lower) Hope this makes sense. Thx
Yeah so I set it to 1/1000 if possible. If I need to lower the shutter speed, I set it to auto so it’s full aperture priority mode. Then it’s min is 1/500. If I need to go lower than that because it’s dark for whatever reason, I’ll manually set the ss again to whatever it needs to be like 1/125 or 1/250 or something else.
Learn the intensity of the light where you live. The Sunny 16 rule always perplexed me with underexposed negatives growing up in the UK, because it was more like Sunny 11 or even Sunny 8. But taking holidays in Spain and Mexico it all came together. Gotta wear shades! Depth of field markings on lenses created for film photography don't necessarily yield the expected results when used on digital bodies, in great part due to the nature of grain in film giving more latitude. The higher the megapixel count, the more critical focus needs to be. Compared with shooting Portra 400 or HP5 on a film M body, I'll usually change my expectations of what depth of field is considered sharp when zone focusing by 1.5 - 2 stops (eg f/8 -> f/4.8 or even f/4) on a 40+ mp digital M body. Monochrome sensors don't seem to suffer from this as much as colour sensors though
Higher megapixel sensors require higher shutter speed at times because of the literal pixel space available to convey blur. Like imagine a ball being thrown perpendicular to the sensor. Let's say the shutter is fast enough to capture the ball flying by in the frame, and the ball only has a chance to move over 3% of the entire frame. If you're on a 24mpx sensor M240... the ball is captured within a 180 pixel spread. On your M11P? The ball passes through 285 pixels. I swapped from the A7c to the A7Rii, and my shutter speeds had to go up for street shooting, absolutely. I swapped to the M240 from the A7Rii, and my shutter speeds came back down. I saw the effect directly in the photos and, at first, I was baffled lol.
Thanks for sharing your tricks. Three technical comments. 1) When you start by setting your shutter speed to 1/1000s, it's NOT called aperture priority. A lot of TH-camrs casually say "I use aperture priority", which is simply not true. I bet you'll ruin more than half of your photos if you use actual aperture priority for street photography. 2) ISO is pronounced eye-so, not I-S-O. 3) You don't have to use a rangefinder camera to do zone focusing. Those are completely unrelated.
An oversight on Mike’s part. For those who don’t know ISO is a measure of the cameras sensitivity to the light hitting the sensor. But for creative purposes it can be thought of as an equal element of the exposure triangle along with aperture and shutter speed.
Off topic but I thought of something that you could present to your viewers and have weekly or monthly photography challenges of all levels. Just a thought Might help with more subscribers and viewers.
The only most important thing about street photography, is avoid the portraits. Ignore people, and show us your surroundings and future spots to visit. Humans can be seen just outside and with our phones. Nobody cares about destructive humans.
Loved walking through all these. On my Fujifilm camera, I fiddle with all 3 settings a lot more manually. On my Sony, I will probably implement your set it and forget it plan, because I've been a bit lazy and leaving it in full auto a lot of the time, and then just fixing things in post. I prefer your method more. Thank you!
I agree, 1/1000 gets much sharper in focus photos, 1/500 has been miss and motion blur sometimes for me too
I always use F8 and 500 speed and auto iso and 3 chapters of continuous photos. When I shoot, I will stand and do not move. I enjoy street photography.
Thanks Mike! It's a very usefull video for me!
Mike, if you use an electronic shutter then you will see more movement due to the readout time of the sensor. Use a mechanical shutter when possible, then time is time.
I never use electronic shutter
Thanks Mike. A very helpful refresher. We so rarely get sunny days, I forget to go up to 1/1000 when it is that bright. Thanks for the reminder
Super helpful discussion of your settings. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
You can also zone focusing with the X100: Manuel mode___ for example with f11 take the hyperfocale distance related with the lens and the aperture, here 2,3 m-- put that distance on the scale distance turning the ring-- done
Roughly the same settings I use....that's where our similarities end 😂😂
Hahaha does it? 😂
@ bud, I'd give my right nut to take photos like you 😂😂
Great vid as always 👍
mate, I would give my right nut to take photos like you 😂😂
Great vid as always 👍
mate, I would give my right n"t to take photos like you 😂😂
Great vid as always ❤
@@chrisjones6439😂😂😂
this video was great...great timing for me as I get more comfortable with my X-T5
Thats a gorgeous camera 🔥🔥🔥
Top words sir... Pretty much set on a 10-P to compliment my Q-P.... Keep up the amazing work!
Thanks Pete!
Thanks a lot for this stuff. Will try out 😊 Which Focus is prefered? AF-S, AF-C or manual? And which Focus Field (like spot etc.)? Thanks in advance 🙏
There's literally nothing about manual focus that's a much nicer experience except maybe if you're shooting macro. In your case f8 means everything is in focus so you're not really focusing which is why it's easy for you. Soon as you have to focus on something for real you'll find out why AF is far nicer.
Incredibly helpful video Mike!!! Really great tips
i think because my style of street is less layering subjects and more getting interesting portraits, with a good depth of field i tend to stick around at f2 and occasionally venture to 5.6 if i want that group shot. I understand you're thinking though and why you shoot how you do. Shooting 18 years now, i use to be MR f16 when i was first learning sunny 16 and eventually found my style/taste.
Manual focus at the hyper focal distance is the best and fastest focus method for street photography ❤️
“Boom, we have removed the distraction” sounded fairly sinister
It’s quite strange listening to your ideas on focus and exposure. When I started about 60 years ago everything was manual focus - and you had to continually measure the light with a hand held exposure meter. ISO - (ASA then) was usually 125 (FP4) or 400 (Tri-x). Now you want to throw away 40+ years of technology and go backwards to manual focus. I don’t see the point in limiting ISO to 3200 or 6400 - what do you do when that limit is reached - go home or get blurry pics? Auto ISO will always choose the lowest possible ISO considering your other settings - so why not just set it to the cameras maximum and forget it. If it bothers you you can always sort digital noise in post - much harder to sort blurry pics.
For street photography I also use manual focus. I have missed shots because of autofocus. Even when I use the x100vi. My muscle memory gets the focusing right and I get very neat shoots and become invisible by shooting from the hip. I would not do that in a model photoshoot in a studio, of course.
I have also found that with the Leica M11 that I also want to work with higher shutter speeds than on the Leica M10 or even my Nikon Z8. I have also found that getting the sharpening setting to be important with the files as well.
Yes, and I tend to have the Nikons (Z9, D3/3x/800/700) set internally down a stop because they tend to overexpose (everything) vs my Q2 set on Highlight Protection metering (most of the time). Please see my other comment regarding some slight impediments I face, including not having taken the lens cover off before raising the camera (confounds my metering, but my composition is about the same); not having turned the camera on before raising it (I have about the same hit rate in action situations camera on/camera off); and almost always forgetting to reset ExpComp at the end of a session/before starting another session. Let's just say it's a good thing I don't depend upon photography to feed myself!
You know id never considered the speed of the shutter vs the MP size of the sensor, good to know!
Great stuff!👌
Thumbnail behind the scenes is really interesting, thanks for adding mate 👍
Glad you liked that! Thanks
just wanted to add....Focal Point is excellent, really enjoy it 👍
You need quite a lot of light to shoot at f/8 and 1/1000.
These are certainly not settings for nighttime street photography, but it's not that bad. It may produce higher ISOs, but on modern cameras it's absolutely fine. Many will downsample their images for social media, use intelligent denoising, or convert the photos to grayscale to make the noise visually imperceivable.
Isn’t setting a shutter speed and an aperture manual mode rather than aperture priority?
Yes it is
He did caveat with "sort of", but yes, it's manual mode
This is so helpful, Mike!🙌 You've really made the settings easy to understand and apply. Thanks for sharing your expertise! 👍
Hay Mike. What autofocus setting would you use for shooting from the hip type shots on a Leica Q3? Would you use manual focal for that and set the distance? Thanks. Ray (love your videos by the way. I find them informative, relaxing and enjoyable to watch)
Yeah manual and set a distance could work if you have enough light and f8 or f11 is useable. But auto focus with the point in the centre could work as well. Hope this helps.
@ Thanks Mike. Appreciate it
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
This settings is almost shoot in full auto mode or with a smartphone. Real photography is much more than freeze motion and deep depth of field.
If you use a cam with an excellent AF, you can work with aperture 1.4-2.8
Ok with a Fuji this is difficult.
Very helpful for quick and easy don't think too much about it settings. Sometimes get too caught up in perfect set up and not spending enough time on just being there and grabbing moments. Also, who makes that camera strap that you use with the M11-P? Looks very subtle and wide enough to be comfortable with my M11 but not bulky. Thanks!
What if I get terrible grain at that setting with my camera and I want clean grainless photos?
Topaz is your best friend but Adobe NR is vastly improved now
And, it's quite possible that you have put in hours upon hours of practice to get to the point where you don't have to think about everything you just said in the video when you're shooting! I think that it's easy to forget that piece of the puzzle when we watch videos and see great shots being made by you guys. Question: When you're using zone focusing, do you also have peaking enabled to assist? Or, would that just take to much time and cause missed opportunities? Thanks for the info. Have a rockin' day!
Are you a manual lens shooter
Hi Mike - question on AUTO ISO @1/1000 SS- does this setting override the min SS you’d normally dial in with Auto IS in Leica user profiles (assuming this min SS being lower) Hope this makes sense. Thx
Yeah so I set it to 1/1000 if possible.
If I need to lower the shutter speed, I set it to auto so it’s full aperture priority mode. Then it’s min is 1/500.
If I need to go lower than that because it’s dark for whatever reason, I’ll manually set the ss again to whatever it needs to be like 1/125 or 1/250 or something else.
Do you set max limit of your ISO when in auto?
6400
Learn the intensity of the light where you live. The Sunny 16 rule always perplexed me with underexposed negatives growing up in the UK, because it was more like Sunny 11 or even Sunny 8. But taking holidays in Spain and Mexico it all came together. Gotta wear shades!
Depth of field markings on lenses created for film photography don't necessarily yield the expected results when used on digital bodies, in great part due to the nature of grain in film giving more latitude. The higher the megapixel count, the more critical focus needs to be. Compared with shooting Portra 400 or HP5 on a film M body, I'll usually change my expectations of what depth of field is considered sharp when zone focusing by 1.5 - 2 stops (eg f/8 -> f/4.8 or even f/4) on a 40+ mp digital M body. Monochrome sensors don't seem to suffer from this as much as colour sensors though
I can’t believe you would hack the London skyline using AI-generated mush. For a genuine street photographer that is an absolutely appalling idea.
Don't see anything wrong with it. It's a TH-cam thumbnail mate. It's ok.
Impossible in Scandinavia, there is not enough light
Condivido tutto 👍
Higher megapixel sensors require higher shutter speed at times because of the literal pixel space available to convey blur.
Like imagine a ball being thrown perpendicular to the sensor. Let's say the shutter is fast enough to capture the ball flying by in the frame, and the ball only has a chance to move over 3% of the entire frame. If you're on a 24mpx sensor M240... the ball is captured within a 180 pixel spread. On your M11P? The ball passes through 285 pixels.
I swapped from the A7c to the A7Rii, and my shutter speeds had to go up for street shooting, absolutely. I swapped to the M240 from the A7Rii, and my shutter speeds came back down. I saw the effect directly in the photos and, at first, I was baffled lol.
Thanks for sharing your tricks. Three technical comments.
1) When you start by setting your shutter speed to 1/1000s, it's NOT called aperture priority. A lot of TH-camrs casually say "I use aperture priority", which is simply not true. I bet you'll ruin more than half of your photos if you use actual aperture priority for street photography.
2) ISO is pronounced eye-so, not I-S-O.
3) You don't have to use a rangefinder camera to do zone focusing. Those are completely unrelated.
He probably meant manual. Also most people using Leicas and Fujis just use the dials so not used to PASM dial modes.
Exactly what I thought, how can you set a shutter speed and be in AP? Impossible. But he did say "sort of".
Hope you take off that bloody lens cap too 😂. For rangefinder users, lens caps are useless. Get a filter to protect.
They are a great mental exercise because if you leave it on your frames will be black without you noticing 😂
ISO is not your exposure
An oversight on Mike’s part. For those who don’t know ISO is a measure of the cameras sensitivity to the light hitting the sensor. But for creative purposes it can be thought of as an equal element of the exposure triangle along with aperture and shutter speed.
Thank’s….
Off topic but I thought of something that you could present to your viewers and have weekly or monthly photography challenges of all levels. Just a thought Might help with more subscribers and viewers.
You should really avoid technical explanations. 90% of the time you’re ambiguous, if not confused.
The only most important thing about street photography, is avoid the portraits. Ignore people, and show us your surroundings and future spots to visit.
Humans can be seen just outside and with our phones. Nobody cares about destructive humans.