The VCR button disables flywheel sync on horizontal. Without it you'll get the top of the picture bending over or tarring on vcr playback. Tarring occurs on video playback due to the flapping of the tape as the head starts touching the tape on it's sweep. The only reason to have flywheel sync in the first place to to deal with RF drop out in low signal areas.
@@Lierofox That is removes Macrovision is by accident, the switch simply disables the AGC in the set, which normally has a gate that charges a capacitor, to store black level and sync level, from the standard blank lines in the flyback period. This then sets the gain for the entire frame, as those 2 levels are proportional to signal level, and thus you can get the dynamic range from them. VCR and Macrovision made those vary, so sets with flywheel sync, which ignore the level, using a internal fixed gain, do not suffer from jitter and picture brightness changes, but all later sets used this to set gains inside the jungle chipset. Disable it and you have to set gain manually, which in a TV set is contrast control, to get peak white. VCR's use this to set gains for the recording stages, which ensures that you do not get crushed video, which has a bad problem of then causing chroma splatter, as the sidebands overlap, so you need to control gain, or have a fixed input level. To record Macrovision you had to have a circuit that replaced that set of varying level lines, at the beginning of frame with some blank lines, to get a good sync pulse and back porch, but it also had to gate through the colour bursts so the colour would not be out for the first few lines. This solved the problem on monitors as well, as VCR head switching would often create some artefacts in the blanking interval sync pulses, so regenerating them was needed for touchy monitors. The VCR generates the sync pulses using a PLL internally, but the video is placed on top of them, and all the broadcast equalising pulses, used to ensure no DC offset in the transmit stage, is lost. For local video no problem, DC clamps recover the signal fine, but the long broadcast chain needed them, as DC clamping would eventually degrade the signal, when applied enough times, as all that path is AC coupled. Yes you got professional recorders with AGC disable switches, which made copying Macrovision possible, which is how you got pre recorded tapes with it on. All the Panasonic professional and industrial recorders had this on the front controls.
@@SeanBZA The disabling of flywheel sync would actually make the the monitor more susceptible to going out of sync / loosing sync if macrovision were present. A far as I know most monitors have no AGC circuitry at all and TV's only have an AGC in the RF section before demodulation takes place. It is indeed true that some VCR's that have AGC's in the video input and that is designed to make maximum use of the poor dynamic range available on the tape. All video signals are supposed to be equal @ 1v pk2pk. The AGC is there because some video signals are more equal than others. Macrovision copy protection was indeed designed to fool the VCR's AGC into thinking it had a super high level video signal and apply attenuation which would often be so much that the VCR would not be able to lock onto the sync. It would a a fun thing to show on the scope as a video Adrian :)
@@stefanegger He's saying the auto gain control is in the VCR, not the monitor. The first version of Macrovision worked by flashing crap in the vertical blank to screw up the auto gain control. (it determines what signal level is black and what level is white, to make best use of dynamic range of the tape. The way to defeat it is to disable AGC in the VCR, or alter it to use different scanlines to do the black and white level detection)
The Philip's 1084 is my favorite display for many of the reasons mentioned, but I still learned a lot of new things from this video. Adrian is always a wealth of information. Thanks for sharing!
I had the 1084s and used it for all Amigas and Consoles (up to PS1!!). One of the best CRTs ever made!! It was manufactured by Philips and Daewoo, the later 1084ST was probably produced by "Likom" (Malaysia).
A few years ago I drove 4 hours round trip from Buffalo to Toronto, just to get a 1084S monitor that was being sold on Craigslist for $35. Thankfully my passport was still valid and my car is very fuel efficient. :) I still need to swap out the power button, otherwise this thing has been working wonderfully with my 128 and CDTV. It was WELL worth it... I love this monitor.
Heh, I had one of these and got rid of it before I moved. I don't remember if I gave it away, or just trashed it (I took multiple truckloads of stuff to the e-waste place before I moved). It was a really great monitor, but I just didn't have a use for an analog 4:3 monitor anymore.
These videos are great. I recently got a hold of an apple iie system with a disk drive and a iic monochrome monitor. I needed to get the disk drive running again and after googling, I ended up on one of your videos and got it working. Sure enough the monitor needed help too, especially with adjusting the size and shape, and sure enough you had a video for that too! I'm glad to say that my system is now fully operational.
I had the 1081 on my Amiga 500. Such a great monitor. I used to plug the VCR into it to watch movies because it was better than the lougeroom TV (which in our case wasn't much bigger).
I used to have one of these, SLIPSTREAM brand, bought it in the Netherlands along with my first C64. It had fewer inputs than the one in the video. I built a cable myself to connect the composite output from the C64's 5-pin DIN to the monitor's composite input, and also connected the audio, and the picture looked excellent, certainly a lot better than what you'd get when you hooked up a C64 to a typical TV's antenna input. I had two problems with it: at one point, one wire in the high voltage circuitry came loose and had to be soldered back on; and the power switch had a mechanical failure so it wouldn't stay down, and I had to get it replaced at a Philips service center. As Adrian mentioned, there are many variations of this monitor, and they don't all use the same power switch. Good times. Got years of fun out of it. It's nice to see that those things are still around and still working. 😊
I wasn't allowed to have a TV in my room when I was a kid, but I did have one of these and an old VCR from back when they still had tuners. I remember using it to watch the premier of Deep Space Nine, despite it airing after my bedtime.
I used to have an old CRT monitor where the image would bulge in or out depending on the amount of white on the screen. You could literally see it bulge out just from opening an Explorer window. Glad we have flatscreens now :)
There are a number of STLs on Thingiverse to 3D print replacement front control doors for 1084 series monitors. With some appropriately colored paint they might look nice.
I'd love to see a modern ultra-res, high refresh (as far as it can go), ultra-sync CRT display in 2022. Flat glass screen, black phosphor. Mmmmmmm. Edit: Yellowing underneath? Could that be heat related and not light exposure related? Kinda makes sense as some folks de-yellowing in direct sunlight with some success without peroxide. Heat vs light, interesting.
I'd also love to see an ultra high res flat screen with interlaced and progressive scan support, Trinitron type aperture grill instead of shadow mask, thin tube technology (my understanding of the tech when it was cancelled was they had the whole unit including chassis down to under 15cm/6in deep). That with all the relevant analog and digital inputs and picture adjustment knobs (or digital control) would be the ultimate display.
I had my Sun GDM-5510 (basically the second highest res/refresh CRT ever made) lose convergence in the corners, so I searched for someone who knew how to fix it. One repair shop recommended another. Second took on the repair and... destroyed it. I mean it, absolutely physically destroyed it, throwing half of the insides away (as well as my special serial programmer that was attached). What the actual fsck. I picked it up "repaired", brought it home and it's absolutely unusable, picture shimmering and jumping around, you can't see a thing (compare to corner convergence problems). I open it up and the RF shield (aka quarter of the weight of this thing ;)) is missing... because they threw it away! WTF?! Sometimes I wish this was the US and I could sue anyone for a million dollars of mental damage. But here, no, obviously there's no market value for a GDM-5510 because they don't exist, so there's no damage to claim. FFS! I had to throw out the remains of the best monitor ever (well it went to the electro-recyclers, but let's face it, all they did is strip the copper and the rest is in the landfill). So anyways, the issue is not that CRTs are not produced anymore. The issue is that people are idiots.
It's amazing that CRT production has shut down completely. I'd bet there is a small but healthy market for reasonable CRTs that sum up all the technological advances at a Sony quality level.
@@Breakfast_of_Champions There are still a few CRT manufacturers for the avionics and space industries, plus specialist CRT units, but they are both very niche, and tend to smaller sizes. Most commonly they regun and recoat the old CRT's when they fail, and when the old guys who own and run the shop goes they pretty much stop.
I always liked the colors on CRTs vs other modern 'flat screen' technologies better when it comes to computer monitors. Maybe it's actually akin in some way to how vacuum tubes just have a more mellow sound than transistors, but applied to video. Unfortunately if you tried to make a modern CRT in any size over about 40", it would likely have to have about 3-4' depth and weigh 300 lbs or more from the sheer amount of glass in it, and the required deflection angle. My old 34" Toshiba TV from the CRT age weighed 200 lbs.
The 1084s were very popular for CoCo 3 back in the day. Many made simple sync combiners but not without the occasional no vertical sync issue. They tended to use a slightly high value resistor in the vertical so a slightly lower value would fix the rolling picture.
We had one of these as a kid though I can't say for sure it was a 1084. I do know it had the split Luma/Chroma inputs on the back like you showed but ours was grey with a darker grey border. I remember surprising my parents when I hooked up the VCR to it and played movies. They had no idea the Commodore 64 could do full motion video. 🙃
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I loved that Monitor, as it raised my pocket money as a teen. That cold solder joint at the line transformer was so easy to fix, one haven't even to search for an other failure if the screen kept blank.
it's amazing they work at all when you look at it! like how it's all wobbly sticking out at the back, they all look they've been put together by a mad scientist!
I had the original Philips PAL version of the monitor (CM8533) with the SCART connector. I bought it at a cattle auction for next to nothing. From 1992-1995 it served as a CGA colour monitor for my BBS (RA+ FD+, etc) and from 1996 to around 2010 it served as a composite TV monitor on my satellite decoder next to my workstation at home. I still have it and it still works, but now just used infrequently with my TI99/4A.
Ive got to replace the power button on mine, have it wedged with a bit of card at the moment. Thanks for the reminder I need to dig this out to sort! Love this monitor and use for most of my retro computers
Acorn shipped a version of this monitor called the Acorn AKF11 (with TTL, for the BBC/Master) and the Acorn AKF12, with analogue inputs. That was an option with the Archimedes series.
The Magnavox 1CM1352941 is the holy grail of that line. It also has the removable tilt/swivel base. They don't turn up often and I've yet to find a service manual with schematics online. 1084 and CM8833 schematics are only somewhat similar and of little help. It's a really nice monitor that pairs up nicely with my 1000EX. Fine dot pitch and the best convergence I've ever seen on a CRT.
1084's and CM8833's are great stuff. Just done my first flyback replacement on a CM8833mk2 which now looks good as new. Not all of the 1084's are made by Philips BTW. Some were made by Daewoo.
Wow! I got halfway through the video before i realized this is the Monitor that was on the Apple IIe i had access to as tween in the early 90s. I hadn't seen an example of the setup I used. By the time I got to use computers it was already the 'old' system but I had so much fun playing games and making my own early launcher and so much more! It was the front button that gave it away for me when you turned it on. This triggered some good memories, thank you for another great video!
Yes you are completely right about the shattering plastic if you dropped... some months ago i found a 1902a in a scrap container and the case was as shattered as the tube, only thing i could salvage from it was the Commodore badge
Adrian, I love your content - long form, short form, etc. The knowledge you impart is greatly appreciated, even if I don't ever see myself pulling a CRT apart myself! LOL Keep up the great videos! Do what you enjoy, and if that's talking about this stuff a lot, go for it. It makes your channel more approachable.
Now I can watch this video because I just got a clean and fully working 1084 CRT. 🥰 It does a little picture "pumping" if there's bright stuff on screen. Gets some waving on the sides too. So caps on the PSU part maybe...
I can glimpse that you've worn the "Bad Caps" shirt the last couple of second-channel vids. Glad you like it so much. 😄 Hopefully you like the redesign too!
Had one....the Whammy from shorting the capacitors palm-to palm was glorious....I didn't die since it was no longer plugged in. It taught me to power it ON without power connected to drain the caps before touching ANYTHING electric! And I had the swivel stand. Problem is that put a lot of load on the main circuit board and made it crack....so the ones who had it broke and got junked!
I have two of these, 1 has always worked, but 1 of them broke down in a very bad way. It must have been stored in a damp place (well, it was!) and when on for a while (with Amiga running) I saw smoke come out the top!!! so turned it off quickly! It turns out the orange coil on the yoke burnt out from a damp patch! luckily my dad was patient and fixed the yoke coil by hand!!
I have a Philips HCS35, which is a similar form factor to this monitor, but without the RGB and C64 DIN sockets - it has a SCART socket instead. I've found this to be a very reliable monitor; your video inspired me to get mine out of storage, and it still works fine after almost 30 years. I tested it with Lemmings and the picture is nice and bright, though it goes blurry if you turn the brightness up too much.
My 1084s was my main TV display in my dorm in college. I used the tuner built into a VCR and used svideo out of the VCR to a custom cable into the 1084. It's been a long time, but I'm pretty sure I remember other people on the floor commenting on how good the picture quality was. Maybe that's some rose-tinting.
The most use I ever had of this style of monitor was as the Acorn Archemedes variant in school, though occasionally meeting a Philips version now and then depending on which classroom or part of the library we were in at the time... :)
As a retro monitor, the Acorn one (amongst other Acorn-rebadgers from different manufacturers) is the most common to find for sale, though often in terrible condition or at terribly extortionate prices...
as kid my friend hold a speakermagnet close to the TV (crt) and that pulled the picture out of shape, and rainbow colours was showing, but we did not know that we was killing the shape permanent :-( so ppl hold magnet way out of your tv, if you love it. i love tech talk. this is a good channel
1084s are the absolute best during its selling period. During any apocalypse, as people recover, always look for old 1084s. They work with most anything! Monitor/CRT discussions are always great. I always learn something.
I would hunt down a 2008-2009 Panasonic Plasma first, but after that, I guess a 1084 is nice. Those really eat every signal, and show them in the most gorgeous manner: composite, component, 3x SCART (RGB+s-video), 4x HDMI FullHD, VGA, and rusty RF too.
This was a great video dude. Honestly I've not been enjoying the mail call videos so much, so this was a great change of pace. Don't worry about talking too much, it was very engaging and I learned a lot. More like this please :)
I was the equipment tech of a DJ team and we did a gig at a place that had a plug in wired backwards. We had to find 4 outlets on separate breakers for power, mostly for the lights. I had to look around at each different building we played and test outlets to make sure they were on separate breakers. After I found my 4 outlets at this place and started powering up the amplifiers there was a weird sound, a low deep hum, then main breaker popped! I tried different outlets until it worked OK. The building manager denied that there was a problem in the wiring of his building and blamed my equipment. I was lucky I didn't lose some of my gear. I tried to keep sound gear on one side of the 220 and the lights on the other.
The front of that monitor..the controls..power button..bezels.. absolutely seared into my adolescent memories. Sat at my Amiga untold hours in front of that thing poking around in Amiga basic and early bbs’…
The Philips monitor the 1084 was based was also used as the default Acorn Archimedes A305/A310/A410/A420 & A440 standard monitor too. Absolutely superb screen, used mine for my A310, Megadrive, SNES & PlayStation 1 (RGB via Scart) back in the day :D The Acorn version looked identical apart from colour and branding, the Philips it's based off looks a bit different, I remember it's power button looking like a pill but it had all the connectors populated on the rear.
The Acorn AKF-12 also has a TTL RGB input so it works with Acorn's 8-bit computers. I've got at least one hiding away in storage somewhere, in case I ever get to use it again!
@@Zeem4 I wish I still had mine! I sold it when I upgraded to a RiscPC with StrongARM... which I still have, battery has prob leaked while in storage though, too scared to look :(
@@thingi I've just got a StrongARM for mine - it turned up in the post a few days ago. No idea if it works, and I've no idea if my RiscPC still works. I'm fairly sure I removed the battery though. The same can't be said of the A3020s that I left in the shed :(
@@Zeem4 Maybe get in touch with GadgetUK164 on TH-cam... he can work wonders. If my battery has leaked I'll either hit him up for a repair or donate my machine to him.
I am useing my Amiga 1081 for ATV ( radioamateur television ) and made some changes, the front switch for a green screen is used to switch between the cinch input and the scart input, and I put a potentiometer on the front to control the vertical frequency for in case the pic on the screen is scrolling by insufficent syncpulses, therefor delete the instelpot R331 (47kohm), works all the time whithout problem, the switch is used between the local ATV repeater and a direct ATV signal for example during a ATV contest.
The 1084 was for the C-128 as the switch would let you swap between CGA and the normal composite/LC donnection. Which was 40/80 modes. The 1084S was for the Amiga which could do a different connector (the rgb port) OR Composite (A1000 or A500 with A520 video adapter). So that’s why some were stereo and some were mono. The mono ones came with the cga cable for the 128 (And Colt PC-10?) while the 1084S came with the normal Amiga video port cable.) I have a 1084S but have had it hooked up to a 128. But had to get cable elsewhere. I had/have an Amiga too.
Oh man, I had one of those with my Amiga 500. It stopped working at some point and my mum discarded it years later. The Amiga is still working fine now, wish I still had the monitor, I am sure it could have been repaired easily...
i found the s version of this in a dumpster! it had a stand. it worked really well for a couple of days then made a cracking noise and stopped working :( I decided to give it away cos i'm scared of 40k volts so posted on a facebook amiga pages for free if someone wanted to collect it. I expected lots of requests to ship it but the 1st person who replied turned out to live a few streets away!! he was well chuffed and fixed it.
i did tv repair for a lot of years. have you used a tube regenerator? like a "sencore cr70". your emission reduce because of carbon build up on the RGB guns. you can actually use the CR 70 to burn off the carbon. and remove shorts that can cause color issues. you can't pick them up pretty cheap on ebay. $200 or so. it will diagnose your tube and tell you what's wrong with it. they make CRT brighteners that actually make the heaters run hotter and will raise the overall brightness on dim screens. if your tube has a short in cathode you can some times remove it with cr 70. if not then the CRT brighteners also have an isolation transformer so you can bi-pass the cathode short. you can test RGB Gun emmissions to see how much life is left in the gun itself. if your doing monitor repair I suggest you get one. Sencore also made a CR7000 which cost a bit more on ebay. I'd even help you learn to use it properly.
I love my 1084 bought it for my C128 as used it in CP/M to complete my college work. Then through my Amiga years and used it on my AT I had at the same time. I remember it was great as wired to both and used the switch to flick between Amiga/pc. My 1084 still sits in front of me with my Hameg scope on top. I do remember fixing a batch replacing the failing lopt which also affected some other Philips monitors. Maybe why one screw. Might still have the Philips notice about it. Safety first HT on monitors is dangerous. I remember a bolt I got off a 26" set which knocked me out cold until I was found three hours later on the floor thrown clear.
One great use for the RGBHV functionality is hooking up a GBS-C directly into it without messing with external sync devices so then you can downscale higher res VGA and component signals into 240p It's also really nice if you absolutely hate 480i flicker since that too can be downscaled to 240p. Also works great to lower the signal levels coming from arcade boards and solve potential compatibility issues.
I had this for like 6 years and I used to watch DVDs and VHS, fantastic quality of image, and mine also came without the control doors (purchased used for like 80 dollars back in the 2000s) I don't have it anymore I sold it to a collector
I'm extremely fortunate to own a 1085S (Stereo version of this amazing monitor)!:) I love having it connected to my C-128: "S-Video" for C-64 mode, and RGB for the 80-Column (128)-mode. :)
I had a 1084S monitor in excellent condition that I "donated" to my old employer to be used as a CCTV monitor. Now I am getting back into retro computers, I wish I wasn't so quick to give it away.
Always enjoy a CRT video. I'm surprised it worked first time, both the 1084 and 1081 (same as the 1084 sans chroma/luma input) I have had numerous bad solder joints, mostly around the high heat components like the flyback and HOT. Also both had broken power buttons, they share the same or very similar power buttons to the 1084S-P with the button on the back, so also surprised yours is working. So on one hand that's awesome but on the other there's nothing fun to fix, just the tedious job (for whoever's doing it) of dynamic convergence and a little white balancing
I had that famous bad solder joints fault. The power supply was vibrating so that after about 2 years the PS got faulty. It took me two month to find the bad joints and when I finally found them and fixed them I was so lucky. Until the next week, when the new Amiga Magazine came out telling you: If your picture is going away, you have a faulty power supply and you need to resolder these four joints...
The stereo 1084 or "1084S" Model was made to complement the Amiga with its stereo sound and Analogue RGB input for 640x480 max resolution (interlaced), although as I remember, the interlaced flickered so bad it was quite nauseating to view for any period of time. I loved my 1084S as it worked well with my A500, and with a quick flip of a switch on the front, could watch TV by using a VCR as a tuner. Ahh... the memories...
I have a Magnavox RGB Monitor 80, apparently cm-8562. It came with a TTL to 9 pin CGA cable so I can run IBM PC CGA cards with it. Nice little monitor.
When I was around 11-12, someone threw out their big console TV at the apartment complex we lived in. They just set it next to the dumpster. I was curious to see what was in it, so I unscrewed the back, and also used sheet metal cutters to take out the speaker magnets etc. I am SOOO lucky I didn't touch the tube or caps, because I had no idea that there was voltage in that that would have fried me. Unrelated: In 1988, I got my first computer at home: a Commodore 128 for Christmas. I don't know what monitor it was, but looks like maybe it was a 2002. That looked so much better than the VIC-20 and C64 monitors that we used in school.
I think a local PC retail chain sold a nearly identical model (with the SCART connector populated !) under their own brand and I was a happy owner of that monitor for many years. People were always jeleous of the brilliant TV picture on that monitor I received via my VHS VCR.
All these times I see the warnings about the danger of high-voltages inside TVs/monitors, and I think back to the time when I replaced the flyback transformer on a PS/2 monochrome monitor (would have been early 90's). I had no knowledge of discharging the anode cap, I don't even remember how I dismantled it (I mean it *was* 1994 or 1995...)
I love my 1084. It's a great monitor for us in the US that want to use a PAL Amiga because the analog RGB can do 50hz. Composite video can as well, but it can't decode the PAL color (Just like a 1702). The VCR mode helps with the slightly wobbly sync pulses and head switching noise. If you have a VCR hooked up and the monitor is having trouble syncing or is flagging at the top, the VCR button can help.
Monitor tech always fascinated me, but I've never had the guts to actually work on one. I had a JAMMA cabinet a few years back, and the monitor really needed some work, but I couldn't convince myself to work on something with high voltage like that. So, the monitor was wonky for as long as I had the cabinet. I ended up selling it as-is for a couple hundred bucks, and the next owner (a friend of my brother) got it repaired professionally.
Oh.. and I have a 1084 (similar with the separate rgbi and analog rgb inputs etc, but stereo audio), with the original cover door still intact.. they do exist :-)
i do have one of the swivel stands for these,wouldnt know where to send the picture though,ill carry on watching the video,im always repairing these monitors
The correct definition is " a Transistor filled vacuum bulb " and on power up they "inflate" hence "The Transistor Filled vacuum bulb is inflating " this means that all is well so far, I learnt this from a guy on the internet and thought I would let you know...cheers.
ah, that monitor, my dad not only used it on the C64, which he later gave me, he used it hooked up to his IBM-compatible machine, which I have no idea which one of those it was at this time because I was too young to commit that info to memory, but I do remember that monitor all too well.
Wow, I love these screens! I used my Magnavox Pro RGB 80 along with a VCR to watch TV for years in the late 80's and early 90s. The VCR button was pushed IN! -- Sadly, she stopped working recently, no video with a high-pitched whine. Did a full recap hoping the shotgun effect would work? It didn't. Also, swapped out the TDA 2658 deflection IC on a suggestion from an old tv repair person. I hope I can get her working again someday.
I'd almost guess it's the flyback that's shorted. Usually when that happens you get a really loud high pitched whine. Luckily the flyback is easily obtainable for this monitor if you're daring enough to replace it.
Earlier revisions (mine was circa 1982) had a different input board, located on the middle right of the back. It had the chroma/luma split jacks, a mono audio in, and the composite/YC switch, but none of the other inputs. This looks much more useful with the RGB added - anyone know when they started doing that?
1084 was legendary. Most respected/sought after affordable monitor among everyday Commodore/Atari users in the 80s-90s If you had unlimited budget, there were always NEC Multisyncs...
A lpt of VCRs screwed with the sync signals to prevent making copies of prerecorded videos. This may have been a circuit to restore the sync signals so they would properly display.
It was a long video, but I enjoyed it. Showing all the testing patterns and explaining NTSC and PAL and S-Video and Chroma Luma and Composite, that was good, but I would have really liked seeing an actual signal connected to it. Be that a VCR, a C64, or maybe something modern with a converter, just to see what it would look like in everyday use.
I have a couple of 1084 monitors. One is the one I bought with my Amiga 2000 in 1990. The high voltage section was arcing and you would hear a snap. Over time it was completely burning the phosphor off of the CRT. "Dead pixels" before it was a thing, I suppose. I was advised to use Corona Dope to paint the high voltage section. It's 30 years now. I think the repair worked. It still works, but now the power switch is stuck on. The other 1084 was one my dad had. It was working fine a few years ago, and then suddenly quit. I haven't thrown it away. I know the CRT is probably fine. I assume it's the high-voltage section.
Great video, I liked the 1084 but preferred the Philips 8833. I had one for my cga xt but used it with vcr, Atari st and the Amiga. I had a mk1 and preferred it over the mk2
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The VCR button disables flywheel sync on horizontal. Without it you'll get the top of the picture bending over or tarring on vcr playback. Tarring occurs on video playback due to the flapping of the tape as the head starts touching the tape on it's sweep. The only reason to have flywheel sync in the first place to to deal with RF drop out in low signal areas.
My initial guess was maybe it was something to do with Macrovision protection, wasn't sure if the timeline lined up with this CRT though.
@@Lierofox That is removes Macrovision is by accident, the switch simply disables the AGC in the set, which normally has a gate that charges a capacitor, to store black level and sync level, from the standard blank lines in the flyback period. This then sets the gain for the entire frame, as those 2 levels are proportional to signal level, and thus you can get the dynamic range from them. VCR and Macrovision made those vary, so sets with flywheel sync, which ignore the level, using a internal fixed gain, do not suffer from jitter and picture brightness changes, but all later sets used this to set gains inside the jungle chipset. Disable it and you have to set gain manually, which in a TV set is contrast control, to get peak white.
VCR's use this to set gains for the recording stages, which ensures that you do not get crushed video, which has a bad problem of then causing chroma splatter, as the sidebands overlap, so you need to control gain, or have a fixed input level.
To record Macrovision you had to have a circuit that replaced that set of varying level lines, at the beginning of frame with some blank lines, to get a good sync pulse and back porch, but it also had to gate through the colour bursts so the colour would not be out for the first few lines. This solved the problem on monitors as well, as VCR head switching would often create some artefacts in the blanking interval sync pulses, so regenerating them was needed for touchy monitors.
The VCR generates the sync pulses using a PLL internally, but the video is placed on top of them, and all the broadcast equalising pulses, used to ensure no DC offset in the transmit stage, is lost. For local video no problem, DC clamps recover the signal fine, but the long broadcast chain needed them, as DC clamping would eventually degrade the signal, when applied enough times, as all that path is AC coupled.
Yes you got professional recorders with AGC disable switches, which made copying Macrovision possible, which is how you got pre recorded tapes with it on. All the Panasonic professional and industrial recorders had this on the front controls.
@@SeanBZA The disabling of flywheel sync would actually make the the monitor more susceptible to going out of sync / loosing sync if macrovision were present. A far as I know most monitors have no AGC circuitry at all and TV's only have an AGC in the RF section before demodulation takes place. It is indeed true that some VCR's that have AGC's in the video input and that is designed to make maximum use of the poor dynamic range available on the tape. All video signals are supposed to be equal @ 1v pk2pk. The AGC is there because some video signals are more equal than others. Macrovision copy protection was indeed designed to fool the VCR's AGC into thinking it had a super high level video signal and apply attenuation which would often be so much that the VCR would not be able to lock onto the sync. It would a a fun thing to show on the scope as a video Adrian :)
what?
@@stefanegger He's saying the auto gain control is in the VCR, not the monitor. The first version of Macrovision worked by flashing crap in the vertical blank to screw up the auto gain control. (it determines what signal level is black and what level is white, to make best use of dynamic range of the tape. The way to defeat it is to disable AGC in the VCR, or alter it to use different scanlines to do the black and white level detection)
The Philip's 1084 is my favorite display for many of the reasons mentioned, but I still learned a lot of new things from this video. Adrian is always a wealth of information. Thanks for sharing!
Phil had one?
Ha, greengrocer joke. I am a king of comedy.
@@tetsujin_144 if you are a, 'king of comedy,' DO NOT hookup with sandra bernhard...
I had the 1084s and used it for all Amigas and Consoles (up to PS1!!). One of the best CRTs ever made!!
It was manufactured by Philips and Daewoo, the later 1084ST was probably produced by "Likom" (Malaysia).
A few years ago I drove 4 hours round trip from Buffalo to Toronto, just to get a 1084S monitor that was being sold on Craigslist for $35. Thankfully my passport was still valid and my car is very fuel efficient. :) I still need to swap out the power button, otherwise this thing has been working wonderfully with my 128 and CDTV. It was WELL worth it... I love this monitor.
Heh, I had one of these and got rid of it before I moved. I don't remember if I gave it away, or just trashed it (I took multiple truckloads of stuff to the e-waste place before I moved). It was a really great monitor, but I just didn't have a use for an analog 4:3 monitor anymore.
@@gorak9000 Oh no! I did similar crimes in my past.. regretting now of course xD
These videos are great. I recently got a hold of an apple iie system with a disk drive and a iic monochrome monitor. I needed to get the disk drive running again and after googling, I ended up on one of your videos and got it working. Sure enough the monitor needed help too, especially with adjusting the size and shape, and sure enough you had a video for that too! I'm glad to say that my system is now fully operational.
One of my neighbors when I was a kid had this exact monitor and he was using it via composite for his NES. Awesome to see it in action again.
I had the 1081 on my Amiga 500. Such a great monitor. I used to plug the VCR into it to watch movies because it was better than the lougeroom TV (which in our case wasn't much bigger).
I used to have one of these, SLIPSTREAM brand, bought it in the Netherlands along with my first C64. It had fewer inputs than the one in the video. I built a cable myself to connect the composite output from the C64's 5-pin DIN to the monitor's composite input, and also connected the audio, and the picture looked excellent, certainly a lot better than what you'd get when you hooked up a C64 to a typical TV's antenna input.
I had two problems with it: at one point, one wire in the high voltage circuitry came loose and had to be soldered back on; and the power switch had a mechanical failure so it wouldn't stay down, and I had to get it replaced at a Philips service center. As Adrian mentioned, there are many variations of this monitor, and they don't all use the same power switch.
Good times. Got years of fun out of it. It's nice to see that those things are still around and still working. 😊
I wasn't allowed to have a TV in my room when I was a kid, but I did have one of these and an old VCR from back when they still had tuners. I remember using it to watch the premier of Deep Space Nine, despite it airing after my bedtime.
Great little monitor I had for my A600! Even though I am in Australia, it had a SCART connection.
I used to have an old CRT monitor where the image would bulge in or out depending on the amount of white on the screen. You could literally see it bulge out just from opening an Explorer window. Glad we have flatscreens now :)
Stereo was 1084S, which IIRC the S denotes stereo.
There are a number of STLs on Thingiverse to 3D print replacement front control doors for 1084 series monitors. With some appropriately colored paint they might look nice.
Yep, I was lazy and bought one from eBay like that :)
@@katho8472 You could probably match the colour with the huge availability of resins available these days.
There is also a nice project to fix the broken hinges in original door
@@MrJohnnygo Nope, you need to paint it. The original monitor is painted as well.
I'd love to see a modern ultra-res, high refresh (as far as it can go), ultra-sync CRT display in 2022. Flat glass screen, black phosphor. Mmmmmmm. Edit: Yellowing underneath? Could that be heat related and not light exposure related? Kinda makes sense as some folks de-yellowing in direct sunlight with some success without peroxide. Heat vs light, interesting.
I'd also love to see an ultra high res flat screen with interlaced and progressive scan support, Trinitron type aperture grill instead of shadow mask, thin tube technology (my understanding of the tech when it was cancelled was they had the whole unit including chassis down to under 15cm/6in deep). That with all the relevant analog and digital inputs and picture adjustment knobs (or digital control) would be the ultimate display.
I had my Sun GDM-5510 (basically the second highest res/refresh CRT ever made) lose convergence in the corners, so I searched for someone who knew how to fix it. One repair shop recommended another. Second took on the repair and... destroyed it. I mean it, absolutely physically destroyed it, throwing half of the insides away (as well as my special serial programmer that was attached). What the actual fsck.
I picked it up "repaired", brought it home and it's absolutely unusable, picture shimmering and jumping around, you can't see a thing (compare to corner convergence problems). I open it up and the RF shield (aka quarter of the weight of this thing ;)) is missing... because they threw it away! WTF?! Sometimes I wish this was the US and I could sue anyone for a million dollars of mental damage. But here, no, obviously there's no market value for a GDM-5510 because they don't exist, so there's no damage to claim. FFS! I had to throw out the remains of the best monitor ever (well it went to the electro-recyclers, but let's face it, all they did is strip the copper and the rest is in the landfill).
So anyways, the issue is not that CRTs are not produced anymore. The issue is that people are idiots.
It's amazing that CRT production has shut down completely. I'd bet there is a small but healthy market for reasonable CRTs that sum up all the technological advances at a Sony quality level.
@@Breakfast_of_Champions There are still a few CRT manufacturers for the avionics and space industries, plus specialist CRT units, but they are both very niche, and tend to smaller sizes. Most commonly they regun and recoat the old CRT's when they fail, and when the old guys who own and run the shop goes they pretty much stop.
I always liked the colors on CRTs vs other modern 'flat screen' technologies better when it comes to computer monitors. Maybe it's actually akin in some way to how vacuum tubes just have a more mellow sound than transistors, but applied to video. Unfortunately if you tried to make a modern CRT in any size over about 40", it would likely have to have about 3-4' depth and weigh 300 lbs or more from the sheer amount of glass in it, and the required deflection angle. My old 34" Toshiba TV from the CRT age weighed 200 lbs.
The 1084s were very popular for CoCo 3 back in the day. Many made simple sync combiners but not without the occasional no vertical sync issue. They tended to use a slightly high value resistor in the vertical so a slightly lower value would fix the rolling picture.
Brings back a lot of memories. We used those in the studio until the mid-'90s.
Thanks again for all the cool and interesting videos Adrian :)
We had one of these as a kid though I can't say for sure it was a 1084. I do know it had the split Luma/Chroma inputs on the back like you showed but ours was grey with a darker grey border.
I remember surprising my parents when I hooked up the VCR to it and played movies. They had no idea the Commodore 64 could do full motion video. 🙃
I loved that Monitor, as it raised my pocket money as a teen. That cold solder joint at the line transformer was so easy to fix, one haven't even to search for an other failure if the screen kept blank.
I loved this monitor. I had this for the amiga I had back then.. and then used it for years at college with a vcr used as a tv
I really love to watch videos youre talking about CRT's, like monitors or televisions. Please more
The "missing" screw was the one you took out before you started discussing the yellowing plastic on the bottom...
it's amazing they work at all when you look at it! like how it's all wobbly sticking out at the back, they all look they've been put together by a mad scientist!
I had the original Philips PAL version of the monitor (CM8533) with the SCART connector. I bought it at a cattle auction for next to nothing. From 1992-1995 it served as a CGA colour monitor for my BBS (RA+ FD+, etc) and from 1996 to around 2010 it served as a composite TV monitor on my satellite decoder next to my workstation at home. I still have it and it still works, but now just used infrequently with my TI99/4A.
Ive got to replace the power button on mine, have it wedged with a bit of card at the moment. Thanks for the reminder I need to dig this out to sort! Love this monitor and use for most of my retro computers
Today I learned that my 14" CRT SVGA monitor has a flyback issue. Thank you Adrian!
Acorn shipped a version of this monitor called the Acorn AKF11 (with TTL, for the BBC/Master) and the Acorn AKF12, with analogue inputs. That was an option with the Archimedes series.
Learned a ton from this. A much appreciated walkthrough that made me appreciate my 1084 so much more. Cheers!
The Magnavox 1CM1352941 is the holy grail of that line. It also has the removable tilt/swivel base.
They don't turn up often and I've yet to find a service manual with schematics online. 1084 and CM8833 schematics are only somewhat similar and of little help.
It's a really nice monitor that pairs up nicely with my 1000EX. Fine dot pitch and the best convergence I've ever seen on a CRT.
1084's and CM8833's are great stuff. Just done my first flyback replacement on a CM8833mk2 which now looks good as new.
Not all of the 1084's are made by Philips BTW. Some were made by Daewoo.
I've seen the Daewoo but not this boxy style. Daewoo made ones that looked just like this?
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 The model numbers were different. The Phillips ones had a -P suffix, Daewoo had -D . S for stereo in both cases.
Wow! I got halfway through the video before i realized this is the Monitor that was on the Apple IIe i had access to as tween in the early 90s. I hadn't seen an example of the setup I used. By the time I got to use computers it was already the 'old' system but I had so much fun playing games and making my own early launcher and so much more! It was the front button that gave it away for me when you turned it on.
This triggered some good memories, thank you for another great video!
Yes you are completely right about the shattering plastic if you dropped... some months ago i found a 1902a in a scrap container and the case was as shattered as the tube, only thing i could salvage from it was the Commodore badge
Adrian, I love your content - long form, short form, etc. The knowledge you impart is greatly appreciated, even if I don't ever see myself pulling a CRT apart myself! LOL Keep up the great videos! Do what you enjoy, and if that's talking about this stuff a lot, go for it. It makes your channel more approachable.
Commodore monitors were so good even Atari owners bought them.
I just obtained one of these myself so I was psyched to watch your video. Thanks!
Now I can watch this video because I just got a clean and fully working 1084 CRT. 🥰 It does a little picture "pumping" if there's bright stuff on screen. Gets some waving on the sides too. So caps on the PSU part maybe...
I can glimpse that you've worn the "Bad Caps" shirt the last couple of second-channel vids. Glad you like it so much. 😄 Hopefully you like the redesign too!
Gives away that I sometimes shoot a bunch of these all at the same time :-)
Had one....the Whammy from shorting the capacitors palm-to palm was glorious....I didn't die since it was no longer plugged in. It taught me to power it ON without power connected to drain the caps before touching ANYTHING electric! And I had the swivel stand. Problem is that put a lot of load on the main circuit board and made it crack....so the ones who had it broke and got junked!
I have two of these, 1 has always worked, but 1 of them broke down in a very bad way. It must have been stored in a damp place (well, it was!) and when on for a while (with Amiga running) I saw smoke come out the top!!! so turned it off quickly! It turns out the orange coil on the yoke burnt out from a damp patch! luckily my dad was patient and fixed the yoke coil by hand!!
I've been using Philips CRT monitor back then, it's quality is quiet good and stable, also got lot of input options, I love it.
I have a Philips HCS35, which is a similar form factor to this monitor, but without the RGB and C64 DIN sockets - it has a SCART socket instead. I've found this to be a very reliable monitor; your video inspired me to get mine out of storage, and it still works fine after almost 30 years. I tested it with Lemmings and the picture is nice and bright, though it goes blurry if you turn the brightness up too much.
It is also good to check the soldering around the flyback, because of heat, it gets lose sometimes
My 1084s was my main TV display in my dorm in college. I used the tuner built into a VCR and used svideo out of the VCR to a custom cable into the 1084. It's been a long time, but I'm pretty sure I remember other people on the floor commenting on how good the picture quality was. Maybe that's some rose-tinting.
I have a 1084 monitor for my Amiga that is mono and has different connectors on the bad. I love seeing these videos that you do like this.
The most use I ever had of this style of monitor was as the Acorn Archemedes variant in school, though occasionally meeting a Philips version now and then depending on which classroom or part of the library we were in at the time... :)
I was unaware of the Acorn badged ones. How neat!
As a retro monitor, the Acorn one (amongst other Acorn-rebadgers from different manufacturers) is the most common to find for sale, though often in terrible condition or at terribly extortionate prices...
as kid my friend hold a speakermagnet close to the TV (crt) and that pulled the picture out of shape, and rainbow colours was showing, but we did not know that we was killing the shape permanent :-( so ppl hold magnet way out of your tv, if you love it. i love tech talk. this is a good channel
1084s are the absolute best during its selling period. During any apocalypse, as people recover, always look for old 1084s. They work with most anything!
Monitor/CRT discussions are always great. I always learn something.
I would hunt down a 2008-2009 Panasonic Plasma first, but after that, I guess a 1084 is nice. Those really eat every signal, and show them in the most gorgeous manner: composite, component, 3x SCART (RGB+s-video), 4x HDMI FullHD, VGA, and rusty RF too.
This was a great video dude. Honestly I've not been enjoying the mail call videos so much, so this was a great change of pace. Don't worry about talking too much, it was very engaging and I learned a lot. More like this please :)
I was the equipment tech of a DJ team and we did a gig at a place that had a plug in wired backwards. We had to find 4 outlets on separate breakers for power, mostly for the lights. I had to look around at each different building we played and test outlets to make sure they were on separate breakers. After I found my 4 outlets at this place and started powering up the amplifiers there was a weird sound, a low deep hum, then main breaker popped! I tried different outlets until it worked OK. The building manager denied that there was a problem in the wiring of his building and blamed my equipment. I was lucky I didn't lose some of my gear. I tried to keep sound gear on one side of the 220 and the lights on the other.
The front of that monitor..the controls..power button..bezels.. absolutely seared into my adolescent memories. Sat at my Amiga untold hours in front of that thing poking around in Amiga basic and early bbs’…
The Philips monitor the 1084 was based was also used as the default Acorn Archimedes A305/A310/A410/A420 & A440 standard monitor too. Absolutely superb screen, used mine for my A310, Megadrive, SNES & PlayStation 1 (RGB via Scart) back in the day :D The Acorn version looked identical apart from colour and branding, the Philips it's based off looks a bit different, I remember it's power button looking like a pill but it had all the connectors populated on the rear.
The Acorn AKF-12 also has a TTL RGB input so it works with Acorn's 8-bit computers. I've got at least one hiding away in storage somewhere, in case I ever get to use it again!
I really must try mine out with my C64. I had one for my A3010, and it never occurred to me to try it with anything else.
@@Zeem4 I wish I still had mine! I sold it when I upgraded to a RiscPC with StrongARM... which I still have, battery has prob leaked while in storage though, too scared to look :(
@@thingi I've just got a StrongARM for mine - it turned up in the post a few days ago. No idea if it works, and I've no idea if my RiscPC still works. I'm fairly sure I removed the battery though. The same can't be said of the A3020s that I left in the shed :(
@@Zeem4 Maybe get in touch with GadgetUK164 on TH-cam... he can work wonders. If my battery has leaked I'll either hit him up for a repair or donate my machine to him.
I am useing my Amiga 1081 for ATV ( radioamateur television ) and made some changes, the front switch for a green screen is used to switch between the cinch input and the scart input, and I put a potentiometer on the front to control the vertical frequency for in case the pic on the screen is scrolling by insufficent syncpulses, therefor delete the instelpot R331 (47kohm), works all the time whithout problem, the switch is used between the local ATV repeater and a direct ATV signal for example during a ATV contest.
The 1084 was for the C-128 as the switch would let you swap between CGA and the normal composite/LC donnection. Which was 40/80 modes.
The 1084S was for the Amiga which could do a different connector (the rgb port) OR Composite (A1000 or A500 with A520 video adapter).
So that’s why some were stereo and some were mono. The mono ones came with the cga cable for the 128 (And Colt PC-10?) while the 1084S came with the normal Amiga video port cable.)
I have a 1084S but have had it hooked up to a 128. But had to get cable elsewhere. I had/have an Amiga too.
I had one of the monitors in the same case with only a composite input. It was a fantastic monitor for my C64 and NES.
Oh man, I had one of those with my Amiga 500. It stopped working at some point and my mum discarded it years later. The Amiga is still working fine now, wish I still had the monitor, I am sure it could have been repaired easily...
I had 4 of these things back in the mid 90's for video work...
More tech please love the knowledgeable crt teaching cheers
I recently fixed a later revision of the 1084s. It’s a great monitor!
i found the s version of this in a dumpster! it had a stand. it worked really well for a couple of days then made a cracking noise and stopped working :( I decided to give it away cos i'm scared of 40k volts so posted on a facebook amiga pages for free if someone wanted to collect it. I expected lots of requests to ship it but the 1st person who replied turned out to live a few streets away!! he was well chuffed and fixed it.
i did tv repair for a lot of years. have you used a tube regenerator? like a "sencore cr70". your emission reduce because of carbon build up on the RGB guns. you can actually use the CR 70 to burn off the carbon. and remove shorts that can cause color issues. you can't pick them up pretty cheap on ebay. $200 or so. it will diagnose your tube and tell you what's wrong with it. they make CRT brighteners that actually make the heaters run hotter and will raise the overall brightness on dim screens. if your tube has a short in cathode you can some times remove it with cr 70. if not then the CRT brighteners also have an isolation transformer so you can bi-pass the cathode short. you can test RGB Gun emmissions to see how much life is left in the gun itself. if your doing monitor repair I suggest you get one. Sencore also made a CR7000 which cost a bit more on ebay. I'd even help you learn to use it properly.
I love my 1084 bought it for my C128 as used it in CP/M to complete my college work. Then through my Amiga years and used it on my AT I had at the same time. I remember it was great as wired to both and used the switch to flick between Amiga/pc. My 1084 still sits in front of me with my Hameg scope on top.
I do remember fixing a batch replacing the failing lopt which also affected some other Philips monitors. Maybe why one screw. Might still have the Philips notice about it.
Safety first HT on monitors is dangerous. I remember a bolt I got off a 26" set which knocked me out cold until I was found three hours later on the floor thrown clear.
Love seeing these videos come up in notifications!
Ahhhh, the broken front flap brings back memories...
One great use for the RGBHV functionality is hooking up a GBS-C directly into it without messing with external sync devices so then you can downscale higher res VGA and component signals into 240p
It's also really nice if you absolutely hate 480i flicker since that too can be downscaled to 240p. Also works great to lower the signal levels coming from arcade boards and solve potential compatibility issues.
I had this for like 6 years and I used to watch DVDs and VHS, fantastic quality of image, and mine also came without the control doors (purchased used for like 80 dollars back in the 2000s) I don't have it anymore I sold it to a collector
I'm extremely fortunate to own a 1085S (Stereo version of this amazing monitor)!:) I love having it connected to my C-128: "S-Video" for C-64 mode, and RGB for the 80-Column (128)-mode. :)
I had a 1084S monitor in excellent condition that I "donated" to my old employer to be used as a CCTV monitor. Now I am getting back into retro computers, I wish I wasn't so quick to give it away.
Always enjoy a CRT video. I'm surprised it worked first time, both the 1084 and 1081 (same as the 1084 sans chroma/luma input) I have had numerous bad solder joints, mostly around the high heat components like the flyback and HOT. Also both had broken power buttons, they share the same or very similar power buttons to the 1084S-P with the button on the back, so also surprised yours is working.
So on one hand that's awesome but on the other there's nothing fun to fix, just the tedious job (for whoever's doing it) of dynamic convergence and a little white balancing
My Phillips monitor exactly like the 1084 also has a bad power switch! Do you have a source of a replacement?
I had that famous bad solder joints fault. The power supply was vibrating so that after about 2 years the PS got faulty. It took me two month to find the bad joints and when I finally found them and fixed them I was so lucky. Until the next week, when the new Amiga Magazine came out telling you: If your picture is going away, you have a faulty power supply and you need to resolder these four joints...
The stereo 1084 or "1084S" Model was made to complement the Amiga with its stereo sound and Analogue RGB input for 640x480 max resolution (interlaced), although as I remember, the interlaced flickered so bad it was quite nauseating to view for any period of time. I loved my 1084S as it worked well with my A500, and with a quick flip of a switch on the front, could watch TV by using a VCR as a tuner. Ahh... the memories...
I still have one of those... still goes well... same missing the front cover.. lol
This had a lot of info content. That is a good thing. Keep up the good work!
I have a Magnavox RGB Monitor 80, apparently cm-8562. It came with a TTL to 9 pin CGA cable so I can run IBM PC CGA cards with it. Nice little monitor.
When I was around 11-12, someone threw out their big console TV at the apartment complex we lived in. They just set it next to the dumpster.
I was curious to see what was in it, so I unscrewed the back, and also used sheet metal cutters to take out the speaker magnets etc. I am SOOO lucky I didn't touch the tube or caps, because I had no idea that there was voltage in that that would have fried me.
Unrelated: In 1988, I got my first computer at home: a Commodore 128 for Christmas. I don't know what monitor it was, but looks like maybe it was a 2002. That looked so much better than the VIC-20 and C64 monitors that we used in school.
You wouldn't have gotten fried.
@@Okurka. Toasted maybe? :)
@@Psychlist1972 Zapped.
@@Okurka. Which, if you've ever seen Big Clive wire up a hot dog on camera, you know can result in frying :D
I think a local PC retail chain sold a nearly identical model (with the SCART connector populated !) under their own brand and I was a happy owner of that monitor for many years.
People were always jeleous of the brilliant TV picture on that monitor I received via my VHS VCR.
All these times I see the warnings about the danger of high-voltages inside TVs/monitors, and I think back to the time when I replaced the flyback transformer on a PS/2 monochrome monitor (would have been early 90's). I had no knowledge of discharging the anode cap, I don't even remember how I dismantled it (I mean it *was* 1994 or 1995...)
I love my 1084. It's a great monitor for us in the US that want to use a PAL Amiga because the analog RGB can do 50hz. Composite video can as well, but it can't decode the PAL color (Just like a 1702).
The VCR mode helps with the slightly wobbly sync pulses and head switching noise. If you have a VCR hooked up and the monitor is having trouble syncing or is flagging at the top, the VCR button can help.
Monitor tech always fascinated me, but I've never had the guts to actually work on one. I had a JAMMA cabinet a few years back, and the monitor really needed some work, but I couldn't convince myself to work on something with high voltage like that. So, the monitor was wonky for as long as I had the cabinet. I ended up selling it as-is for a couple hundred bucks, and the next owner (a friend of my brother) got it repaired professionally.
Oh.. and I have a 1084 (similar with the separate rgbi and analog rgb inputs etc, but stereo audio), with the original cover door still intact.. they do exist :-)
I had one of those monitors, but mine had the stereo speakers. Used it for console gaming for 6 years. Kinda miss it.
I used to love my 1084S with the Amiga. I was so gutted when it died.
i do have one of the swivel stands for these,wouldnt know where to send the picture though,ill carry on watching the video,im always repairing these monitors
The correct definition is " a Transistor filled vacuum bulb " and on power up they "inflate" hence "The Transistor Filled vacuum bulb is inflating " this means that all is well so far, I learnt this from a guy on the internet and thought I would let you know...cheers.
@adrian. That model has a scart connector on the main board and a blank plate in the back so you could install a rgb scart socket
ah, that monitor, my dad not only used it on the C64, which he later gave me, he used it hooked up to his IBM-compatible machine, which I have no idea which one of those it was at this time because I was too young to commit that info to memory, but I do remember that monitor all too well.
I bought a monitor like this, can't remember the model, to watch TV. Hooked it to my VCR. Worked great.
A 1084s was my TV for a while, (through a VCR). With an A1200 underneath for gaming.
I love these old monitors! So versatile! They are great for console gaming.
Wow, I love these screens! I used my Magnavox Pro RGB 80 along with a VCR to watch TV for years in the late 80's and early 90s. The VCR button was pushed IN! -- Sadly, she stopped working recently, no video with a high-pitched whine. Did a full recap hoping the shotgun effect would work? It didn't. Also, swapped out the TDA 2658 deflection IC on a suggestion from an old tv repair person. I hope I can get her working again someday.
I'd almost guess it's the flyback that's shorted. Usually when that happens you get a really loud high pitched whine. Luckily the flyback is easily obtainable for this monitor if you're daring enough to replace it.
Earlier revisions (mine was circa 1982) had a different input board, located on the middle right of the back. It had the chroma/luma split jacks, a mono audio in, and the composite/YC switch, but none of the other inputs. This looks much more useful with the RGB added - anyone know when they started doing that?
High pit ch noise from a tv or monitor is from the paper in-between the coils breaking down over time, some used thin paper.
1084 was legendary.
Most respected/sought after affordable monitor among everyday Commodore/Atari users in the 80s-90s
If you had unlimited budget, there were always NEC Multisyncs...
Adrian, love the stream-of-consciousness format. And love the analog stuff!
A lpt of VCRs screwed with the sync signals to prevent making copies of prerecorded videos. This may have been a circuit to restore the sync signals so they would properly display.
Macrovision!
I too have seen a number of these fail with bad solder joints on the flyback. The heat and 15kHz vibration is hard on them.
It was a long video, but I enjoyed it. Showing all the testing patterns and explaining NTSC and PAL and S-Video and Chroma Luma and Composite, that was good, but I would have really liked seeing an actual signal connected to it. Be that a VCR, a C64, or maybe something modern with a converter, just to see what it would look like in everyday use.
I have a couple of 1084 monitors. One is the one I bought with my Amiga 2000 in 1990. The high voltage section was arcing and you would hear a snap. Over time it was completely burning the phosphor off of the CRT. "Dead pixels" before it was a thing, I suppose. I was advised to use Corona Dope to paint the high voltage section. It's 30 years now. I think the repair worked. It still works, but now the power switch is stuck on. The other 1084 was one my dad had. It was working fine a few years ago, and then suddenly quit. I haven't thrown it away. I know the CRT is probably fine. I assume it's the high-voltage section.
Really interesting. I watched while in the kitchen cooking.
Great video, I liked the 1084 but preferred the Philips 8833. I had one for my cga xt but used it with vcr, Atari st and the Amiga. I had a mk1 and preferred it over the mk2
Right out the bat....I wonder where that expression comes from.