Lubriplate assembly grease is a great product that we have used for years in our rebuilds. Some people think it’s just lithium grease but it’s not. Unlike normal grease Lubriplate is designed to melt into a liquid after the initial startup is completed. Regular greases are designed just the opposite in that they are designed to resist liquifying when in use.
I appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge. Why exactly is it so bad to if lubrication gets on the bottom side of the washers for the head studs? Wouldn't a thin film of lubriplate be beneficial? Thanks
Oil is meant to keep steel from touching steel. A mere .001 of an inch thickness of oil keeps your rods from touching the bearings. Even when still the oil stays between the layers of steel and could end up dissopating with temp and vibration allowing releaving some of the torque you thought you had but that thin layer of oil was still there, now your bolt backs out. CLEAN CONNECTING SURFACES IS SUPER IMPORTANT. JMO.
I’ve seen a few 6.0 Powerstroke engine builds now and it seems that LubriPlate is common. What makes it any better than/different from standard big name assembly lubes like AMSOIL, Royal Purple, or Permatex Ultraslick?
Hey anyone from blessed performance, I have a question. if my machine shop said I only need .020 over pistons then would I be using ARP 3.760 tool to put the pistons in and not 3.770 since you guys went .30 over? Please reply😅
half way thru my rebuild. 90% of the time its taken me has just been cleaning everything to my satisfaction. also when it comes to the thrust bearing. its impossible to mess up because the bearing journal. is thinner. you literally can't put the thrust bearing anywhere else.
@@BlessedPerformance someone must've die grinded the bearing. or worse hammered it on thats really interesting. as far as the "bad rap" all the 6.0L's get. they really do give you instructions on the parts on how to put it back together. reminds me of the time in the marines. when instructors were trying to teach slower people how to assemble a certain weapon and they're trying to put a pin in the wrong hole they'd scream "SHAPES SHAPES ITS ALL SHAPES" fun times.
@justnsaliga8518 thanks for the support man. Yeah this engine that we tore down one time has 3 Thrust Bearings somehow installed. You can imagine how bad that chewed up the block and crank. Ruined both by the way. That customer paid a big company to build it for him I feel bad.
Any chance you have torque specs for everything? going to be rebuilding my dads 6.0, he passed away in 2018 and was able to get ahold of his old service truck recently, still runs and has 120k miles with 4000 hours on the engine, wanna make sure everything is best as it can be. I would take it to a shop but I feel like this is a project that I need to take on my own. Great video btw! Very informative and I most definitely took notes!
I always when you hot tank an engine it's going to need cam bearing cause the corrosive solvent will eat slightly the bearing material on the surface. Also isn't it just good practice to reinstall the rods from the cylinder they came from? Opposed to mixing them up?
Also POR15 is not UV stable. It requires a top coat of some kind. When painting the block I would use POR15 first (it stand for Paint Over Rust 15) then a top coat of paint. Really no need for primer unless you skip the POR 15.
@Superduty_59 We didn't hot tank this block but yes I agree if you hot tank you should change the cam bearings for good measure. Yes we agree POR 15 needs a top coat. The video is a general overview we covered a lot of details just to help the DIY guy tackle the job but there could be some super technical things you've learned that you can apply that we cut out of the video to streamline it.
It looks like a diamond lapping plate used for flattening stones. I cannot think of anything worse for the job of "removing dirt and not removing metal" though.
I’m all about you guys helping people do this however jerking on a torque wrench to torque cylinder heads is a big no-no. Also do not use a drill to run hardware tight. Just to run them down then tighten with ratchet
If you guys were near me i would love to have you rebuild my engine like this. That would be great with a video being made on youtube doing it. I wonder how much it would cost to ship to you from San Antonio Tx🤔🤔🤔
Is there someone in the Blessed household on permanent laundry duty? Because SOMEONE doesn’t believe in shop towels or rags! I mean, we’re Al guilty once in a while but geez…..
OLÁ. Comento apenas o que vi. A princípio trata-se de um motor com "novo" desenvolvimento" de lubrificação. Os erros cometidos pelo fabricante do motor, que eu saiba, ainda não foram resolvidos de forma eficiente. Aparentemente um determinado erro de projeto não identificado pelo projetista provocou uma série de alterações mal sucedidas que somente aumentaram o problema. Deveriam ter conferido o perfil das bronzinas, um anél de compressão a menos no pistão, a falta dos furos de retorno de óleo no fundo da canaleta dos pistões e o esquecimento de que ALÉM DE LUBRIFICAR O ÓLEO TAMBÉM É UTILIZADO PARA ESFRIAR O LADO OPOSTO DO "TOP" DO PISTÃO. Após saber que a nível molecular os eixos se AUTO LUBRIFICAM, acredito que voltarão a usar somente óleo lubrificante na montagem. ABRAÇOS...Roberto Udo Krapf
Okay so here I am starting to watch this rebuild, and I'm not sure I would be impressed at all to get the block back from a machine shop with a deck like that! That's the point of paying for tech to use pricey equipment we do not have, yikes. Anyways, carrying on...
We didn't have him deck the block brother I agree it wasn't the best that's why later in the video we used the tools we use to ensure proper sealing. This engine is out there running in tip top shape.
If the deck is flat and the surface is free of pitting I would prefer it not to be cut. We’ve used this approach on gas engine overhauls without any issues for years. Removing metal from a block or head should only be done to correct an issue that would create a problem if left unresolved.
I don't know what it is it it's like 30% of all TH-camrs have that nasally voice.. it's the weirdest thing like why do some people have that voice? Must be deviated septum? Who knows
Wow, so cool, I buy my parts from yall, had no idea you had a yt channel. Ive got a 6.0 and been building it. Top half is done, runs nice but gotta do a couple more upgrades so im ordering a KDD stage 2 shortblock, going to 195/100 injectors, adding this NXD1000 kit, and the piece de resistance, a thumper II hpop, which ill be calling you guys for. Stay blessed yall!
Lubriplate assembly grease is a great product that we have used for years in our rebuilds. Some people think it’s just lithium grease but it’s not. Unlike normal grease Lubriplate is designed to melt into a liquid after the initial startup is completed. Regular greases are designed just the opposite in that they are designed to resist liquifying when in use.
Love your work keep posting like this❤❤
@user-jm8gz2gx5n oh yeah that's gonna keep happening more to come!
We use loctite 5699 a whole bunch. This is what cummins uses on the class 8 timing/ adapter plate . Hdeo resistant
Makes sense
Way Too Go Guys 😊
I appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge. Why exactly is it so bad to if lubrication gets on the bottom side of the washers for the head studs? Wouldn't a thin film of lubriplate be beneficial?
Thanks
You want the washer to bite on the bottom while having the top slide to allow torque specs to be met properly
Oil is meant to keep steel from touching steel. A mere .001 of an inch thickness of oil keeps your rods from touching the bearings. Even when still the oil stays between the layers of steel and could end up dissopating with temp and vibration allowing releaving some of the torque you thought you had but that thin layer of oil was still there, now your bolt backs out. CLEAN CONNECTING SURFACES IS SUPER IMPORTANT. JMO.
I’ve seen a few 6.0 Powerstroke engine builds now and it seems that LubriPlate is common. What makes it any better than/different from standard big name assembly lubes like AMSOIL, Royal Purple, or Permatex Ultraslick?
The fact that it doesn't run while trying to install parts is why we like it
Great video!
Thank you!
What diamond plate do you use, the coarse or the fine? 4:19
Fine is what we use
Thank you! Really appreciate the video. Great info.
Do you know part #
Hell yaaaa 💪💯
Do you ever drill and tap oil galleys on front and back and use pipe plugs? Wondering if I should do it on mine
No sir never seen a need
Hey anyone from blessed performance, I have a question. if my machine shop said I only need .020 over pistons then would I be using ARP 3.760 tool to put the pistons in and not 3.770 since you guys went .30 over? Please reply😅
Yes you are correct
Hello. Do you remember the part number on Amazon for. Magnetic knife sharpner? Thank You.
Did yall line bore the block since ur putting main studs in?
No sir truck runs flawless
Have you guys had good luck with the gator studs on higher hp builds? We have always used arp, but they are pretty hard to get lately.
Yes sir we've got them in our compound dually 6.0 and so many other builds over the last two years with less than a .1% failure rate
half way thru my rebuild. 90% of the time its taken me has just been cleaning everything to my satisfaction. also when it comes to the thrust bearing. its impossible to mess up because the bearing journal. is thinner. you literally can't put the thrust bearing anywhere else.
We've disassembled engines with the thrust bearing in the wrong location. That's the reason we mentioned it.
@@BlessedPerformance someone must've die grinded the bearing. or worse hammered it on thats really interesting. as far as the "bad rap" all the 6.0L's get. they really do give you instructions on the parts on how to put it back together. reminds me of the time in the marines. when instructors were trying to teach slower people how to assemble a certain weapon and they're trying to put a pin in the wrong hole they'd scream "SHAPES SHAPES ITS ALL SHAPES" fun times.
@@BlessedPerformance keep up the good work ya'll do. really one of the Pillars of the diesel community. and keeping the 6.0L fresh and alive.
@justnsaliga8518 thanks for the support man. Yeah this engine that we tore down one time has 3 Thrust Bearings somehow installed. You can imagine how bad that chewed up the block and crank. Ruined both by the way. That customer paid a big company to build it for him I feel bad.
Any chance you have torque specs for everything? going to be rebuilding my dads 6.0, he passed away in 2018 and was able to get ahold of his old service truck recently, still runs and has 120k miles with 4000 hours on the engine, wanna make sure everything is best as it can be. I would take it to a shop but I feel like this is a project that I need to take on my own. Great video btw! Very informative and I most definitely took notes!
Shoot us an email we can send over torque specs
@@BlessedPerformance sounds good! What’s your guys’s email ?
@@akatheunknown4310 yes sir sales@blessedperformance.com or blessedperformance.com/contact-us/
Please lmk what lubricant u using to put on the push rods.? Thanks 🤙🏽
We use white lubri-plate assembly lubricant
I always when you hot tank an engine it's going to need cam bearing cause the corrosive solvent will eat slightly the bearing material on the surface. Also isn't it just good practice to reinstall the rods from the cylinder they came from? Opposed to mixing them up?
Also POR15 is not UV stable. It requires a top coat of some kind. When painting the block I would use POR15 first (it stand for Paint Over Rust 15) then a top coat of paint. Really no need for primer unless you skip the POR 15.
@Superduty_59 We didn't hot tank this block but yes I agree if you hot tank you should change the cam bearings for good measure. Yes we agree POR 15 needs a top coat. The video is a general overview we covered a lot of details just to help the DIY guy tackle the job but there could be some super technical things you've learned that you can apply that we cut out of the video to streamline it.
Sounds about right!@@BlessedPerformance
How many hours do you have in a build like this? Great job by the way.
On camera this takes much longer than off camera. I would estimate 8hours into a full tear down, clean, build if we have everything sitting there.
Nice job, tearing into mine soon, link to the stone you used for the block deck surface?
Shoot us a message on Facebook I'll snag ya a picture or link
Could you get me a link for the sharpener
It looks like a diamond lapping plate used for flattening stones. I cannot think of anything worse for the job of "removing dirt and not removing metal" though.
I’m all about you guys helping people do this however jerking on a torque wrench to torque cylinder heads is a big no-no. Also do not use a drill to run hardware tight. Just to run them down then tighten with ratchet
Fair enough we've built these for years with success in several ways that we do it.
Did you make that engine stand bracket?
We bought this one from H-Fab
If you guys were near me i would love to have you rebuild my engine like this. That would be great with a video being made on youtube doing it. I wonder how much it would cost to ship to you from San Antonio Tx🤔🤔🤔
Shipping round trip would be around $1000 brother and we can build it no worries
U serious? Only $1000
What is your email so I can send you the details on the build
@johnnycortez46 yes sir we have a contact us form on our website or you can email sales@blessedperformance.com
@BlessedPerformance OK Awesome. I sent you an email.
For those people, You weld a Duramx camshaft gear because they don’t have key way.
Some 6.7s I believe as well
How much does it cost to have y’all do a build like this?
We can custom build you anything you want just give us a call to get a quote 1-800-577-2698
Is there someone in the Blessed household on permanent laundry duty? Because SOMEONE doesn’t believe in shop towels or rags! I mean, we’re Al guilty once in a while but geez…..
I wash my own laundry and we use shop towels yes lol but I have my work clothes and my nice clothes
How much does all of this cost?
Can you give me the dimensions on the engine stand adaptor thanks!!
We have them available for purchase. blessedperformance.com/blessed-performance-engine-mount-for-2003-to-2010-ford-6-0l-and-6-4l-powerstroke/
I bought the adaptor but it's too large for my 1500lbs big red engine stand, what engine stand is it installed on?
👍🏻
How much for a 2007 f 350 rebolt will cost me. 6 0
Engine builds range from 10k to 40k depends on your specific build
@@BlessedPerformance Do you do a stage 2. 60
How much is the stage 2 rebuilt?
@johnnyblaze9421 give us a call sometime, shooting from the hip I would say around 12-14k
@@BlessedPerformance I'll be giving you guys call in a couple months. I'm definitely interested. Thank you for your help.
OLÁ. Comento apenas o que vi. A princípio trata-se de um motor com "novo" desenvolvimento" de lubrificação. Os erros cometidos pelo fabricante do motor, que eu saiba, ainda não foram resolvidos de forma eficiente. Aparentemente um determinado erro de projeto não identificado pelo projetista provocou uma série de alterações mal sucedidas que somente aumentaram o problema. Deveriam ter conferido o perfil das bronzinas, um anél de compressão a menos no pistão, a falta dos furos de retorno de óleo no fundo da canaleta dos pistões e o esquecimento de que ALÉM DE LUBRIFICAR O ÓLEO TAMBÉM É UTILIZADO PARA ESFRIAR O LADO OPOSTO DO "TOP" DO PISTÃO. Após saber que a nível molecular os eixos se AUTO LUBRIFICAM, acredito que voltarão a usar somente óleo lubrificante na montagem. ABRAÇOS...Roberto Udo Krapf
How much does all of this cost
Many factors brother range would be 8k-20k depending on the long block build
Oh nice I’m saving cause I need my 2007 6.0 rebuilt
🥺
Okay so here I am starting to watch this rebuild, and I'm not sure I would be impressed at all to get the block back from a machine shop with a deck like that! That's the point of paying for tech to use pricey equipment we do not have, yikes. Anyways, carrying on...
We didn't have him deck the block brother I agree it wasn't the best that's why later in the video we used the tools we use to ensure proper sealing. This engine is out there running in tip top shape.
@@BlessedPerformance ah, I see. Makes sense then
If the deck is flat and the surface is free of pitting I would prefer it not to be cut. We’ve used this approach on gas engine overhauls without any issues for years. Removing metal from a block or head should only be done to correct an issue that would create a problem if left unresolved.
@@prevost8686 yes, but how about a nice cleanup at least right
I don't know what it is it it's like 30% of all TH-camrs have that nasally voice.. it's the weirdest thing like why do some people have that voice? Must be deviated septum? Who knows
I can guarantee it is the camera. Go pro is the problem
Wow, so cool, I buy my parts from yall, had no idea you had a yt channel. Ive got a 6.0 and been building it. Top half is done, runs nice but gotta do a couple more upgrades so im ordering a KDD stage 2 shortblock, going to 195/100 injectors, adding this NXD1000 kit, and the piece de resistance, a thumper II hpop, which ill be calling you guys for. Stay blessed yall!