If you want to break starter, starter ropes and tear your shoulder out of its socket, stay with that .020 squish, otherwise set the squish at about .040 by using a good thick base gasket. I have the metal gasket from hL supply on my 660. It works fine and I can crank it without coming out of my shoes on every pull or getting a friendly Bigfoot to crank it for me. I would estimate its pull is about the same as my ms-271 which does not have a deco button.
Quite intricate work. Wouldn't mind having your skills to work on a Tecumseh engine and give it a new life (smile). Like both yours and Dave's vids. You both always teach viewers something new/interesting.
Hey great video! Best one Ive watched so far on these ms660! Im going to start my build this weekend. What kind of oil did you use to prelube the bearings?
Thanks! I used SAE 30 oil. Some of the oil saws speced for that to be mixed with the gas. If you want you could buy a cheap bottle of 2 cycle oil to use. Good luck with your build!
I went with no gasket to reduce the squish and increase the compression. You have to check the squish to to be sure you have enough clearance to run it gasketless.
One question about the seals...do you pre-oil those and the crank seal surfaces before pressing the halves together? Others doing builds actually take precautions where they pull the seals before and then reinstall new seals after the press. Just curious what your thoughts might be on the matter. Thanks!
Yes I oiled them. If you are careful, you don't have to remove the seals. If you remove them, you still run the risk of damaging them. IMO pressing the crank on with the seals in the case is no different to seals, then putting them on after it is together. Since the seals were in there, I left them in. If they weren't in, I would have put them in after the case was together.
Just came across your video looking to see about different ways of putting crankcase together. What size socket did you use? Thanks and your videos are great. I’m thinking about getting one of these kits (I have a 362 but would like a bigger saw and don’t want to dish out 1300+ quite yet)
I'm not sure what I used. The way I do it now is put the crank in the freezer for a few hours, heat the bearings to 130 degrees with a heat gun and drop the crank in. Check out my 880 video. th-cam.com/video/kaAFppYw6dM/w-d-xo.html
So I'm still a little confused on the squish test I want to get this kit and put it together myself but I want to be sure I'm able to actually do it. Doesn't look very hard from the 4 part series you have so I'm a bit more confident but that squish test is the only thing that gets me.
I worked in a couple of machine shops and some people tapped bearings on, I never trusted that method because it doesn't always work. On Chinese equipment who knows how they did it. After I lived in Mexico, I think they probably had crude equipment.
Some bearings live a rear axle bearing have to be driven in, with a proper driver, but that is a little different than a critical, tiny, engine bearing.
Tractor Tech I see. I was gonna order a better top end for mine but figured I’d run the Chinese one and see what happens. Also was gonna order of tensioner and fuel caps just because of the reviews. How’s the saw holding up? And great videos by the way
Good Video! I'm going to rebuild my Stihl 034 with the cylinder and piston kit from the 036. Just wondering about the squish. Is it same fro all saws when rebuilding or would it vary? Thanks
@@TractorTech Yeah I see people doing that but I've been needing a press for a while so will go ahead and get one. I'll probably put the crank in the freezer before pressing too.
I built one of these a few months ago. It will run and has acceptable power but it is a bitch to start. Instead of rolling over, as I am accustomed to saws doing on cold start - it pops and occasionally fizzles. When it does it will yank the starter rope right out of your hand or worse. I broke the pulley in the original pulley and pulled two ropes right out of the pulley. I am beginning to think I have to much squish, although I have never checked it. What do you think? I built it with a base gasket and 1184. I built it with the piston and cylinder supplied in the kit.
Too much squish would lower the compression. The gasket supplied with the kit is .5mm thick, like an OEM gasket. Stihl also has a 1mm for lower compression. So I don't think it is a squish problem. It only does this on a cold start? The kicking sounds like the timing is over advanced. Make sure the flywheel key is not sheared. You could also have a faulty ignition module. If you have another pro grade stihl excluding saws ending in 1 or 2, the ignition module will fit. You may have to change the plug wire which unscrews. A MS290 module is the same too. Another thing to check before swap ignition modules is make sure the choke closes all the way. If it closes 80% it can cause a hard start.
I have a Stihl 066 magnum looking for a cylinder and piston that ain’t going to break the bank. Do you no another brand that’s just as good as oem? Thanks
Have you tried to clean up the old one? If it can't be cleaned Meteor is the best aftermarket. Hyway is pretty decent too if you are on a tighter budget. If you go with a hyway, get caber or stihl rings. Use stihl circlips with whatever you go with. They are $.55 each.
good video, yes best so far but if you make another one please show what bolts, screws you are putting where. im halfway through the build & having to guess & see what fits where. not to mention the parts they forget to send & another months waiting. wouldve been much easier just to buy a damn stihl lmao.
I took the time to measure my Farmertec 660 squish and got .0255 on both the left and right sides without a gasket. Is it safe to assemble this kit without a base gasket or does it cause the saw to be a bit more heat sensitive? The reason I ask is that I intend to use my 660 as a milling saw for an Alaskan mill and I know that is hard duty for any saw.
More compression will create more heat. You won't gain a tremendous amount of compression from the gasket delete. I doubt that the saw will run any hotter without a gasket. If you want to play it safe you can leave the gasket. If you leave the gasket out and have problems you can get another $30 cylinder for it. If I was building the saw for someone else and they were going to mill with it, I would probably leave the gasket on the saw just to play it safe.
Does HL Supply actually sell these kits? I can't find them on their site. I would love to buy one but would rather buy from somebody who has inventory in the US. I bought a G5800 from Farmertec and its a great saw.
A T-27 torx, 8mm, 10mm 16mm, and 17 or 18mm. Then a straight screw driver and a small philips screw driver. A small pair of needle nose pliers is handy.
@@TractorTech Hi. I already putted crank shaft in crank case, can I put oil seals now? And what happens if the squish is not same in both cylinder sides?
It would not hurt to check them. I was going to do that but I got wrapped up in making the video and forgot. I know I said they are tapered but the may not be the best way to describe them. On the end they are about half the thickness of the rest of the ring then they taper up to full thickness.
I can't remember, it's been a while since I made the video. At what time in the video did I mention dave? I'll remember if see what I am talking about.
@@mattcaldwell9343 he was going on your use of the word "literally." He didnt assume you meant that you would "litterally have a stihl by buying literal aftermarket parts." He couldnt read your mind that you intended to communicate that one could select fron various quality after market parts to improve the overall quality of a build.
It was not squish. I measured it and it was .0225, about what good builders shoot for (.020) or 5mm and change if you are inclined to use the metric system.
If you want to break starter, starter ropes and tear your shoulder out of its socket, stay with that .020 squish, otherwise set the squish at about .040 by using a good thick base gasket. I have the metal gasket from hL supply on my 660. It works fine and I can crank it without coming out of my shoes on every pull or getting a friendly Bigfoot to crank it for me. I would estimate its pull is about the same as my ms-271 which does not have a deco button.
I can't tell any difference in how this one starts or how an OEM 660 with a gasket starts.
Quite intricate work. Wouldn't mind having your skills to work on a Tecumseh engine and give it a new life (smile). Like both yours and Dave's vids. You both always teach viewers something new/interesting.
Thanks I really appreciate the comment. I like Dave's videos too.
Hey great video! Best one Ive watched so far on these ms660! Im going to start my build this weekend.
What kind of oil did you use to prelube the bearings?
Thanks! I used SAE 30 oil. Some of the oil saws speced for that to be mixed with the gas. If you want you could buy a cheap bottle of 2 cycle oil to use. Good luck with your build!
Nice! 4.18 crank looks like it has side load on the bearings. Enjoyed the video, thanks!
Thanks for checking it out.
What was the reason for going with no gasket between the crankcase and the cylinder?
I went with no gasket to reduce the squish and increase the compression. You have to check the squish to to be sure you have enough clearance to run it gasketless.
Are you going to do a complete assembly video on the Farmertec MS 880?
Maybe some day. I really want one but I can't justify the price tag. I don't need a saw that big but, I want one.
One question about the seals...do you pre-oil those and the crank seal surfaces before pressing the halves together? Others doing builds actually take precautions where they pull the seals before and then reinstall new seals after the press. Just curious what your thoughts might be on the matter. Thanks!
Yes I oiled them. If you are careful, you don't have to remove the seals. If you remove them, you still run the risk of damaging them. IMO pressing the crank on with the seals in the case is no different to seals, then putting them on after it is together. Since the seals were in there, I left them in. If they weren't in, I would have put them in after the case was together.
@@TractorTech Yeah that's pretty much what I'm thinking too. Thanks!
@@TractorTech Well oddly Hutzl actually sent along 2 replacement seals. The press method worked great so I'll just hold on to them.
@@TractorTech p
Just came across your video looking to see about different ways of putting crankcase together. What size socket did you use? Thanks and your videos are great. I’m thinking about getting one of these kits (I have a 362 but would like a bigger saw and don’t want to dish out 1300+ quite yet)
I'm not sure what I used. The way I do it now is put the crank in the freezer for a few hours, heat the bearings to 130 degrees with a heat gun and drop the crank in. Check out my 880 video. th-cam.com/video/kaAFppYw6dM/w-d-xo.html
So I'm still a little confused on the squish test I want to get this kit and put it together myself but I want to be sure I'm able to actually do it. Doesn't look very hard from the 4 part series you have so I'm a bit more confident but that squish test is the only thing that gets me.
You don't have to check the squish if you are using a base gasket. I'll do video on how to check squish in a couple weeks or so.
@@TractorTech Awesome thank you for the help!
@@TractorTech Why do you choose not to use the gasket provided or a Stihl gasket?
hello, do you need to set ring gap on the kitsets?
I have never seen Stihl publish a spec for ring gap. I go by what Wiseco says. It is #11 on the FAQ.
www.wiseco.com/FAQs.aspx
looking good! I think that it's going to be a good runner.
Thanks, I'm hoping it will be a runner.
I worked in a couple of machine shops and some people tapped bearings on, I never trusted that method because it doesn't always work. On Chinese equipment who knows how they did it. After I lived in Mexico, I think they probably had crude equipment.
Some bearings live a rear axle bearing have to be driven in, with a proper driver, but that is a little different than a critical, tiny, engine bearing.
Is there a reason why you didn’t use the rings that came with the kit
I got mine as a group but on a forum. I paid extra to get the Cross cylinder. It came with caber rings which are OE quality.
Tractor Tech I see. I was gonna order a better top end for mine but figured I’d run the Chinese one and see what happens. Also was gonna order of tensioner and fuel caps just because of the reviews. How’s the saw holding up? And great videos by the way
Good Video! I'm going to rebuild my Stihl 034 with the cylinder and piston kit from the 036. Just wondering about the squish. Is it same fro all saws when rebuilding or would it vary? Thanks
Thanks, I would check the squish on every saw before doing a gasket delete.
Awesome video. After I got to Harbor Freight to get a press I'll start my build.
Thanks! You can also put the crank in the freezer a few hours on heat the bearings.
@@TractorTech Yeah I see people doing that but I've been needing a press for a while so will go ahead and get one. I'll probably put the crank in the freezer before pressing too.
@@martinoconnell7968 I have a press and just did the heat and freeze and never needed the press. Just did it tonight.
I built one of these a few months ago. It will run and has acceptable power but it is a bitch to start. Instead of rolling over, as I am accustomed to saws doing on cold start - it pops and occasionally fizzles. When it does it will yank the starter rope right out of your hand or worse. I broke the pulley in the original pulley and pulled two ropes right out of the pulley. I am beginning to think I have to much squish, although I have never checked it. What do you think? I built it with a base gasket and 1184. I built it with the piston and cylinder supplied in the kit.
Too much squish would lower the compression. The gasket supplied with the kit is .5mm thick, like an OEM gasket. Stihl also has a 1mm for lower compression. So I don't think it is a squish problem. It only does this on a cold start? The kicking sounds like the timing is over advanced. Make sure the flywheel key is not sheared. You could also have a faulty ignition module. If you have another pro grade stihl excluding saws ending in 1 or 2, the ignition module will fit. You may have to change the plug wire which unscrews. A MS290 module is the same too. Another thing to check before swap ignition modules is make sure the choke closes all the way. If it closes 80% it can cause a hard start.
Wow. WHo knew there was such a thing as a clone Stihl chainsaw kit. So where might a person get one? Google didn't yield a single kit for sale.
The cheapest place to get them is from china. www.huztl.net/ There are several listed on the homepage. They call them chainsaw complete repair parts.
I have a Stihl 066 magnum looking for a cylinder and piston that ain’t going to break the bank. Do you no another brand that’s just as good as oem? Thanks
Have you tried to clean up the old one? If it can't be cleaned Meteor is the best aftermarket. Hyway is pretty decent too if you are on a tighter budget. If you go with a hyway, get caber or stihl rings. Use stihl circlips with whatever you go with. They are $.55 each.
How has the saw held up? I assume putting side load pressure on the bearing pressing the crank in is not that much force to worry about?
The crank pressed in very easily. IIRC I did not use the handle on the jack on the press.The rod bearing went out of it.
@@TractorTech If you built another one is it any part's you would use or anything you would do different?
@@kdcustoms1272 The crank went out of this one. I rebuilt it. A couple things to upgrade are the wrist pin bearing and circlips and crank rope.
good video, yes best so far but if you make another one please show what bolts, screws you are putting where. im halfway through the build & having to guess & see what fits where. not to mention the parts they forget to send & another months waiting. wouldve been much easier just to buy a damn stihl lmao.
Thanks, all of my hardware came in bags and was labeled. I was not aware at the time that not all of them came like that.
How did you put the little clips in to hold the piston in place??
A very small pair of needle nose pliers. You can also carefully use a pick. Just watch they don't go flying.
I took the time to measure my Farmertec 660 squish and got .0255 on both the left and right sides without a gasket. Is it safe to assemble this kit without a base gasket or does it cause the saw to be a bit more heat sensitive?
The reason I ask is that I intend to use my 660 as a milling saw for an Alaskan mill and I know that is hard duty for any saw.
More compression will create more heat. You won't gain a tremendous amount of compression from the gasket delete. I doubt that the saw will run any hotter without a gasket. If you want to play it safe you can leave the gasket. If you leave the gasket out and have problems you can get another $30 cylinder for it. If I was building the saw for someone else and they were going to mill with it, I would probably leave the gasket on the saw just to play it safe.
Thanks for the input. I knew I would be stressing the saw so that was bugging me.
If you ran out of gas in the middle of a cut the added compression would make it harder to start too.
Did you put some 1194 on crankcase gasket or just gasket without sealant?
I used a gasket on the case halves and sealant for the cylinder base.
Does HL Supply actually sell these kits? I can't find them on their site. I would love to buy one but would rather buy from somebody who has inventory in the US. I bought a G5800 from Farmertec and its a great saw.
Yes, they do.
www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/cs66020a.htm
What kind of oil or lube do you use for assembly?
SAE 30 or 2 cycle oil
What size sockets did you use ? Getting ready to get mine together
A T-27 torx, 8mm, 10mm 16mm, and 17 or 18mm. Then a straight screw driver and a small philips screw driver. A small pair of needle nose pliers is handy.
my kit is missing the oil seals on the crankshaft. I noticed you didn't show them being put in.
My seals and bearings were already installed in the case halves.
@@TractorTech Hi.
I already putted crank shaft in crank case, can I put oil seals now? And what happens if the squish is not same in both cylinder sides?
@@martinsvalgis5764 yes the seals can go in. As long as the squish is over . 020" you will be fine. Sometimes it is the same side to side.
Is there a need to check ring end gap with the tapered rings?
It would not hurt to check them. I was going to do that but I got wrapped up in making the video and forgot. I know I said they are tapered but the may not be the best way to describe them. On the end they are about half the thickness of the rest of the ring then they taper up to full thickness.
I didn't see you install the oiler tube and filter before you pu the halves together. that would be an oops.
Sometimes I forget to but it can be installed later.
sweet! looking good man.
Thanks!
total cost in parts ?
I got mine from HL supply.
www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/cs66020a.htm
Did you senter the crankshaft?
Yes
How to assemble 660 STIL CHAINSAW
Thanks for watching!
You guys need to try freezing the crank with 134A or other freon. If the cases are heated to 200 you can assemble by hand if you move fast
That would work. The EPA may frown on this method with the way they are cracking down on refrigerant.
Who is Dave you’re speaking of?
I can't remember, it's been a while since I made the video. At what time in the video did I mention dave? I'll remember if see what I am talking about.
So why not buy a stihl 660 rebuild kit also and swap for better internals and literally have a stihl for way less money?
A stihl crankshaft is $400.
@@TractorTech wrong
www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-066-MS650-MS660-crankshaft-p/h35660.htm?Click=2139&GooglePLA&utm_Medium=CSE&H35660&dfw_tracker=10332-H35660&gclid=CjwKCAiAl4WABhAJEiwATUnEF-ChcxUItowtxBUgAZaDgaMZE9674UQiSiNoUGSHoOu2Q3Tw4coe0BoC_T0QAvD_BwE
Stop lieing to people.
That is an aftermarket crank
@@TractorTech and? I guarantee aftermarket is as good or better than OEM just like ANY other engine part in the world.
@@mattcaldwell9343 he was going on your use of the word "literally." He didnt assume you meant that you would "litterally have a stihl by buying literal aftermarket parts." He couldnt read your mind that you intended to communicate that one could select fron various quality after market parts to improve the overall quality of a build.
It was not squish. I measured it and it was .0225, about what good builders shoot for (.020) or 5mm and change if you are inclined to use the metric system.
you mean .5mm?
Ok...i'm sorry
Thanks for watching!