How To Replace Your 2012 Toyota Tundra Front Brakes and Rotors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video we show how to install a set of front brake pads and front rotors on a 2007-2012 Toyota Tundra. We will be installing Duralo Ceramic Series Brake Pads and Duralo Drilled and Slotted Rotors.
This brake pad replacement and rotor install also applies to the following vehicles:
2007 Toyota Tundra
2008 Toyota Tundra
2009 Toyota Tundra
2010 Toyota Tundra
2011 Toyota Tundra
2008 Toyota Sequoia
2009 Toyota Sequoia
2010 Toyota Sequoia
2011 Toyota Sequoia
2012 Toyota Sequoia
The tools needed for this job are a ratchet, a 17 millimeter socket, a flat-head screwdriver, a punch, pliers, and a hammer. Start by removing the wheel, if you don’t have an impact gun you can use a torque wrench or a breaker bar.
With your pliers, remove the retaining clip. These will release the two retaining pins which hold in the brake pads. You can take them out by hand, or you can use a pair of pliers. Sometimes you’ll need to use a little more force so you would use the hammer and punch, or just the back of your screwdriver.
Remove the last retaining clip with your pliers, and this will release the brake pads.
To remove the brake pads, stick your screwdriver between the brake pad and the rotor and this will compress the caliper piston. If you are not replacing the rotors you will want to use a C-clamp or brake caliper tool as to not damage the rotor. In this case we are replacing them so we aren’t worried about scratches. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Earlier this afternoon I actually changed my front rotors and brakes pads based upon this video. It was a success. After all these years of refusing to do my own brakes I decided to on my 2014 Tundra. Thanks for this video.
Tomorrow I plan to do my back brake pads and rotors.
Good video, I used it when I did my 2012 tundra, but I did some additional work - I cleaned my hub and put anti seize on it and the caliper pins, I also cleaning the caliper and put caliper grease on the ends of my brake pads, no issues or noise
How come no one shows anyone opening the brake fluid reservoir. I open mine it makes it compress easier
Thanks for the video man..I changed it out all 4 wheels in 3 hrs. Saved me few hundreds.
Thank you! Thank you! Although I could not use Duralo parts because they were out for my need!! The information was insightful and helped me get through some of the questions I had. If you took the parts apart then you knew how they went back together. Overall a good basis of the series of how to complete.
Thank you, this video helped us to know if our mechanic knew what he was doing and he did.... he taught my husband and my husband did the other side by himself.... thank you for the video... we get. thanks
You guys might want to mention that there are bolt holes that accept M8 bolts to pop off frozen rotors. Otherwise great video thank you.
the pad retaining clip that the pin passes thru was reinstalled backwards. the center part at center of rotor should face away from rotor so as not to catch in the fins of rotor as it is turning.
+Albatross1 , Good eye. Yes you are correct. it was backwards. I rewind the vid and I say that it was facing away from the pads.
And there are 2 of those.
I thought that was odd as well. I don't do many break jobs.
Do you have a video for the back brakes as well?
what size is the bolt . to use if the rotors are frozen to the axle?
I agree that there are a LOT of missing parts left out of this video, most importantly the compression of the brake caliper pistons which is critical to the operation of getting the new brakes in place next to the rotor, not to mention that it is also advisable NOT to tighten down the entire caliper assembly until everything has been "dry / loose fitted" in place. Just makes it so much simpler in the end... speaking from personal experience here. Furthermore, this seems like a big commercial for Duralo products. Right?
My thoughts exactly
pro tip.. don't lay your new rotor on a concrete surface, don't get greasy finger prints on your new pads, and lightly grease your pins.
and don't use chrome sockets on an impact gun
They did grease the pins.
are there no bolt holding on the rotor disk?
time the rotors are bad enough to be replaced they wont come off this easy and that is why those two bold holes are in the rotors, so you can put 2 bolts in and force them off by turning each bolt about n1/2 turn at a time. if anyone thinks everything will go this smoothly you are in for a SHOCK
Those look like recalled HF jack stands. I had 4 of those orange and white stands.
How do you like the Duralo Rotors and pads? It's difficult to find any reviews of the brand.
+Nathan Schultz As a distributor of Duralo Rotors and Pads we have only heard good things about the brand. The drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads are selling like hotcakes. Contact us for more information.
Thanks,
BuyAutoParts.com
@@BuyAutoPartsTV1 by
Who remembers the Toyota Tundra commercial where it pulling trailer on teeter-totter and truck stops before going off the cliff? Yeah, my Tundra could do this. ONE TIME, THE. THE ROTORS ARE WARPED. I don’t even pull a trailer and had to fight with Toyota over rotors 3x at 5000, 8000, 11000 miles. I said “SCREW THIS!” and bought drilled, slotted AND CRYO-TREATED rotors (look it up, parts dipped in liquid nitrogen or something crazy that hardens parts). That was at 16000 miles and I’m at 116,000 miles now. Rotors are fine and just replaced pads 2x since I left Toyota Services. Still stops like you threw anchors out the windows and no warping. No, I don’t pull Space Shuttles around much either.
Really good explanation of the job guys. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. What are the torque specs for the caliper bolts?
Thanks
Methodical2 Did you find the torque spec? I needed too.
2 HOURS FOR THE FRONTS????
Sorry, just couldn't resist. Great video and thanks for making it.
Lol im saying. it took my like 25 minutes for the front and i did pads, rotors and 2 new calipers!?!?! Lol
I swapped mine out in a hour forty
great video, it took me a few adjustments to do my 2008 tundra brakes and rotors. who ever is complaining about the video must be a professional mechanic, or just a hater.
Thanks brother, i'm about to change mine on my 2008.
these tundras have a lot more rugged brake than my old f150. haven't had them apart yet, but may soon!
Video was good, WWYDdotORG pointed out the some of the things I noticed; however I hope everyone knows that these rotors are not able to be turned, (that I know of)....so they are one and done. OEM rotors can easily be "turned" at a machine shop or auto parts store for 15.00 bucks (roughly). Overall though this gave me enough info to make sure I didn't go into the job blind. Another video points out that an M8 x 125 bolts will push the rotor off.
Spring and retention clip were put in the wrong way.
Tell us the torque for the bolts.
73 ft. lbs on the torque.
So the drilled slots are they the better ones?
Great video!
Great video!! What is the torque for the caliper bolts please! haha :-)
Nice video
Clip is installed backwards
As someone who has been in maintenance/mechanics for the bulk of my life, please wear gloves. Your skin absorbs chemicals you are in contact with, eventually it could cause problems.
Not a bad vid, but I would recommend using a c clamp as well as a rubber or wooden mallet to loosen the rotor. You can also use a board against the metal to hit with the hammer.
All I have left to say is gawd, those of you who never had to work on brake shoes/drums have no Idea how easy this is now days.
Torque specs ?
good video
I had a tough time getting the retaining pins out.
I have a land cruiser with the same kind of brake system, i had to torch mine to get them loose...Living in the rust bowl sucks, those things were toast. Ended up cutting it and chiseling it out after and put new ones in, with shit loads of grease so they won't seize again.
What a bitch is all I say back breaks was easy took me all day till dark but was first time ever doing it and well with the learning experience from front brakes yea taken to shop for front ones if rusted like they are
just bought my first toyota tundra and this is very informative. really annoying music though.
Good video. I guess I can do the same for my 03 4runner?
+My cup runneth over. - Psalm 23:5 Thanks! Same process just different parts, have fun saving money on your brake repair!
+BuyAutoPartsTV
Your welcome.
It seems like my factory Tundra brakes have never stopped that well. Is that normal? Would these fix that issue?
Yes, that is normal with Tundra brakes. haha Toyota needs to work on them for sure.
At least one thing on these trucks are easy to replace in your garage.
Nice video! Thanks!
Thanks for this video.
1:00 You don't use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts on a wheel...
Best Tundra brake video on the internet!
Thanks
Hope he had a jack stand not just the jack
Thank you!
"Tighten bolts to proper torque"... or you could just mention what the proper torque is.
So how do you know when you need to replace rotors? The ones I have on my truck are thin just like those 🤔😂
When they warp! You will know they are warped when you start to get wheel shake/ vibration when you brake @ 50-60mph. Just did my front calipers. 🤣 Easy job if u are a little mechanically inclined
Your wishbone clip is reversed. Check the manual
Oh my! this was a train wreck of a brake job. Where to start. The pistons where not fully seated before he put the caliper back on, he used a screw driver against the new rotor to force the pistons in. The saftey clip is going to fall out it was not installed correctly. The lobe wasnt entered thru the hole therefore its going to fail. With greasy ass hands he handled the pads and the rotor. Ugh im gonna stop there but please people search for another video to learn how to do this correctly and Pete my ninja of curly fries, get back to Jack in the box and flip burgers. Please dont screw up any others brakes. Hopefully this truck was Pete's own.
Also said to remove lug nuts you could use a torque wrench to remove them🤦♂️
Thanks!
He did not clean the hub either
not to be critical here but there is a metal brake line coming out the back of the caliper and you did not address how to remove the caliper without harming it. looks like you somehow pushed it back through its holder but there is a removable clip that will allow you to remove the rotor and make use of the flexible part of the brake line.
you bent the metal brake line instead of just unbolting the bracket!
You didnt bleed out or compress the pistons
thats what he used the screw driver for.
Want to sell those wheels?
Ahaha :)) dude you put that metal clip wrong way
Drilled rotors are JUNK in trucks. They crack between the holes. Really junk in anything, besides ceramic brakes. A smooth rotor is what you want if you don't wanna replace pads constantly. Can never go wrong with OEM yota parts, or some good shit from Smith. Don't cheap out on truck brakes. Cars, meh kinda, but not on trucks.
Centric rotors and pads are pretty good quality.
Please people show using safety. Jack stands!!!
0:55 Jack Stands on the left
no jack stand?
tacoma he has them look closely lol
0:55 Jack Stands on the left
First, I must truly say thanks for the video.
I'm not a mechanic so I was really hoping to learn something here.
However, loosening the caliper bolts or the lug nuts with a torque wrench?
Also, was the metal part of the brake line just bent out of the way?
Shouldn't the bolt and small bracket holding the brake line to where the rubber and metal lines connect have been removed?
I would think having a bent metal brake line would be a problem equal to or worse than worn pads.
Too bad the camera work was all over the place.
I was getting dizzy with all the damn camera movement.
Not easy to learn the finite details of what to do with clips and pins when you can't focus on them.
Go home camera dude...you're drunk.
doesn't matter cause he did most of the work wrong anyway including the clips and you were right about your suggestions
Y cant they make rotors the same those are stupid looking 😝