I just put unions on jobs where I see a long drain run. I always carry a few in the truck. It I am also not a fan of the condensate traps. The gasket that seals the ports usually comes in the furnace but never seem to last. Looks like a clean install and burning nice as well. The modulating furnaces that are LP are a pain when it comes to changing the gas valve and inducer. Have to take the whole thing apart just to have enough room. I usually match the choke up with the original if it’s the oem inducer motor. Good work joe. Learn a lot from you
My parents had to deal with my medical conditions, when i was 24 years old, although it wasn't cancerous. They had to get a hotel, when I was in Chicago for 3 weeks. Back then, patients stayed in the hospital a lot longer. Plus, meals.
One trick I have seen for flushing those condensate lines is to cut it at a midpoint where you would want to flush it. You then use flexible vinyl tubing of the right diameter to rejoin them. Dielectric grease can be used to slide the tubing over the pipe more easily. Steve Lavamonier has done this in many of his videos.
Have you ever found an intermittent hi heat pressure switch did not close or reopened error? For some reason i found water would get stuck in the port on the inducer, a meniscus would form preventing it from closing.. drilled out the hole very carefully no issues since.. Also seen cacked collector box cause 3-2
i think the greatest issue with the performance 96 is that the constant torque blower has minimal heating speed adjustments, if the ducts are undersized by a wide enough margin, won't get proper airflow on high heat. 60k btu model looks the worst. Step up to the infinity and the motor will automatically compensate. Every other constant torque blower motor furnace allows very major heating speed adjustments, even goodman, can select the right tap to get proper temperature rise. While running up the blower speed and running high static to compensate for undersized ducts is not good, it is better than having the furnace run hot and have reduced heat exchanger life.
Going to be honest, even on the evolution/infinity line, the blower speeds are often insufficient. Usually, I have to adjust the gas pressure to an...uncomfortable degree...to make it work reasonably. To be fair, that may be my company's salesman not sizing well enough, though. It'd be nice if they just ditched the ridiculous "comfort/efficiency" and "low heat rise" monikers that adjust random percentages and allowed a more comprehensive fine tuning for the blower speed. At least in my opinion.
@@cmc7256 If the infinity can't get proper airflow with it set to efficiency, furnace must be grossly oversized for ductwork running 1"+ static. the 60k btu on high is 1000 cfm on high all the way up to 1".
@@Jon-hx7pe @Jon Yeah, I said it earlier, my company's salesman is....frustrating to pick up after, so I don't doubt it. I've brought it up to them numerous times, but I'm still stuck cleaning up the mess. Which is a shame because other than the inducer motors and the genius design choice to put all the electronics under the intake pipe so moisture messes with them....I really do like those units.
As a Bryant boy, those inducers are overly expensive parts that I replace entirely too often, and the most ridiculous thing is even when they are working they randomly go loud as a screaming witch. I usually don't have problems with the traps honestly as long as they are cleaned every year with maintenance. Only other thing (someone else mentioned in the comments) is the blower settings, especially for heating. Ductwork is almost always ridiculously bad and there is no way to adjust blower speed enough to "make it work" to dance with the heat rise.
Clean the small fan motor, fan, and surrounding area, by dousing most of it with WD-40 every year, after vacuuming it out, and wiping the fan blades off, then give the motor shaft a couple blasts, for good measure. De-cruds, and lubricates it....quieting it down to nothing you can hear, if you are more than 3 feet away. Never stop the routine, because WD-40 grabs dust.
Sounds like the motor is dirty. I spray it down with WD-40 every year, after vacuuming out, around the small fan, then vacuum again. . Obviously dust can be kept out with regular cleanings, and motors kept quiet, and clean, with simple WD-40, done yearly.. 7.99 a can, at Menards. You can never stop the routine, because WD-40 grabs dust. A home without a can of WD-40, isn't a home. I have a Carrier Performance 80. Btw, tell your boy he's got this. Take it from a 3b lung cancer survivor, about to go back to treatment for radiation-induced thyroid cancer, at age 51. I've been through radiation, chemo, and immuno, and I'm still here to tell the tale, 5 years out.
@@williamserver4332 technically it does stop the air leakage, it is not wrong. but, it is not worth the headache if it plugs imo unless installed in a unconditioned space
We had to put traps on every unit where im from. Positive or negative, it didn't matter...it had to have a trap....goes to show what inspectors really know.....jack squat
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I just put unions on jobs where I see a long drain run. I always carry a few in the truck. It I am also not a fan of the condensate traps. The gasket that seals the ports usually comes in the furnace but never seem to last. Looks like a clean install and burning nice as well. The modulating furnaces that are LP are a pain when it comes to changing the gas valve and inducer. Have to take the whole thing apart just to have enough room. I usually match the choke up with the original if it’s the oem inducer motor. Good work joe. Learn a lot from you
My parents had to deal with my medical conditions, when i was 24 years old, although it wasn't cancerous. They had to get a hotel, when I was in Chicago for 3 weeks. Back then, patients stayed in the hospital a lot longer. Plus, meals.
One trick I have seen for flushing those condensate lines is to cut it at a midpoint where you would want to flush it. You then use flexible vinyl tubing of the right diameter to rejoin them. Dielectric grease can be used to slide the tubing over the pipe more easily. Steve Lavamonier has done this in many of his videos.
Are Carrier performance condensor furnaces reliable?
Have you ever found an intermittent hi heat pressure switch did not close or reopened error?
For some reason i found water would get stuck in the port on the inducer, a meniscus would form preventing it from closing.. drilled out the hole very carefully no issues since..
Also seen cacked collector box cause 3-2
i think the greatest issue with the performance 96 is that the constant torque blower has minimal heating speed adjustments, if the ducts are undersized by a wide enough margin, won't get proper airflow on high heat. 60k btu model looks the worst. Step up to the infinity and the motor will automatically compensate.
Every other constant torque blower motor furnace allows very major heating speed adjustments, even goodman, can select the right tap to get proper temperature rise.
While running up the blower speed and running high static to compensate for undersized ducts is not good, it is better than having the furnace run hot and have reduced heat exchanger life.
Going to be honest, even on the evolution/infinity line, the blower speeds are often insufficient. Usually, I have to adjust the gas pressure to an...uncomfortable degree...to make it work reasonably. To be fair, that may be my company's salesman not sizing well enough, though.
It'd be nice if they just ditched the ridiculous "comfort/efficiency" and "low heat rise" monikers that adjust random percentages and allowed a more comprehensive fine tuning for the blower speed. At least in my opinion.
@@cmc7256 If the infinity can't get proper airflow with it set to efficiency, furnace must be grossly oversized for ductwork running 1"+ static. the 60k btu on high is 1000 cfm on high all the way up to 1".
@@Jon-hx7pe @Jon Yeah, I said it earlier, my company's salesman is....frustrating to pick up after, so I don't doubt it. I've brought it up to them numerous times, but I'm still stuck cleaning up the mess. Which is a shame because other than the inducer motors and the genius design choice to put all the electronics under the intake pipe so moisture messes with them....I really do like those units.
@@cmc7256 if the salesman doesn't know how to size units and can't evaluate ductwork properly, should be retrained or fired.
As a Bryant boy, those inducers are overly expensive parts that I replace entirely too often, and the most ridiculous thing is even when they are working they randomly go loud as a screaming witch.
I usually don't have problems with the traps honestly as long as they are cleaned every year with maintenance.
Only other thing (someone else mentioned in the comments) is the blower settings, especially for heating. Ductwork is almost always ridiculously bad and there is no way to adjust blower speed enough to "make it work" to dance with the heat rise.
Clean the small fan motor, fan, and surrounding area, by dousing most of it with WD-40 every year, after vacuuming it out, and wiping the fan blades off, then give the motor shaft a couple blasts, for good measure. De-cruds, and lubricates it....quieting it down to nothing you can hear, if you are more than 3 feet away. Never stop the routine, because WD-40 grabs dust.
how long due the inducer motors last?
Great video.
Is it better to install the furnace air inlet on the top or the side? I recall you mentioning condensation dripping down with this inlet setup.
It's better on the side
@@MiHeatingGuy Nothing like a gas valve fault due to intake condensation drip to really make a tech roll their eyes at the engineers.
Sounds like the motor is dirty. I spray it down with WD-40 every year, after vacuuming out, around the small fan, then vacuum again. . Obviously dust can be kept out with regular cleanings, and motors kept quiet, and clean, with simple WD-40, done yearly.. 7.99 a can, at Menards. You can never stop the routine, because WD-40 grabs dust. A home without a can of WD-40, isn't a home. I have a Carrier Performance 80. Btw, tell your boy he's got this. Take it from a 3b lung cancer survivor, about to go back to treatment for radiation-induced thyroid cancer, at age 51. I've been through radiation, chemo, and immuno, and I'm still here to tell the tale, 5 years out.
Good luck and I appreciate you sharing that
don't need trap on a/c condensate line on upflow in conditioned basement, wonder why they did that
Some guys insist on putting a trap on an upflow furnace. They are wrong but still do it.
@@williamserver4332 technically it does stop the air leakage, it is not wrong. but, it is not worth the headache if it plugs imo unless installed in a unconditioned space
@@Jon-hx7pe I agree. The air leakage is minimal .
We had to put traps on every unit where im from. Positive or negative, it didn't matter...it had to have a trap....goes to show what inspectors really know.....jack squat
Lennox is the absolutely worse